Page numbers refer to the print edition but are hyperlinked to the appropriate location in the e-book.
Alfred A. Knopf (publisher), 214, 226–27
Alta California (newspaper), 48, 56
“American chop suey,” 131
American Citizens for Justice, 245
American culinary attitudes: and distorted adaptations of Chinese dishes, 127–32; as obstacles to understanding of Chinese food, 25, 28–29, 30–35; as rooted in nineteenth-century models, 30–31, 266n6
American Gas Engineering Journal, 108
Anderson, E. N., 240
Aoyagi, Akiko, 240
Arensberg, Suzi, 227–28
Arnold, Mark, 87
Arnold, Sir Edwin, 100
Asia (magazine), 145, 146, 154
Asia Press, 154
Asian American activists: academic studies programs founded by, 244, 245; influence of Black Power movement on, 244; resentment of Chinese restaurant stereotypes by, 244; and Vincent Chin murder, 245
Asian American studies: antecedents of in early twentieth-century university curricula, 139, 144; expansion of in 1960s, 244; and Taiwanese–American relations, 193
Asing, Norman (Sang Yuen), 49
Augusta, GA, Chinese laborers in, 88
“Aunt Sammy.” See “Housekeeper’s Chat”
Autobiography of a Chinese Woman (Chao), 161
Bancroft, Hubert Howe, 54, 75, 100, 268n15
Bazore, Katherine, 206
Beard, Elizabeth (Brennan), 27, 121
Beard, James, 27, 121, 178, 231, 239, 261
Borthwick, J. D., 50
Book of Tofu, The (Shurtleff and Aoyagi), 240
Boxer indemnity scholarships, 139–40, 141–42, 152, 199
Bramson, Ann, 240–41
Brooklyn Daily Eagle, 105–6, 121–22
Bruce Cost’s Asian Ingredients (Cost), 241
Buck, Pearl S., 145–46, 147, 161, 162; as advocate for Asian affairs coverage at John Day, 145–46, 147; and How to Cook and Eat in Chinese, 153–56, 160, 161, 164, 205
Burlingame Treaty (1868), 66
Bush, Pres. George H. W., 249
California agriculture, role of Chinese in growth of, 61–63
California State University system, 244
Canada, Chinese in, 17, 57, 66, 77, 86–88
Canton. See Guangdong Province; Guangzhou
Canton Restaurant (San Francisco), 48–49
Canton Village (restaurant; New York), 189
Cantonese cooks: as cooks and servants in Far West, 67–71; and Irish–Chinese rivalry, 70; in late Qing-era China, 25–27, 38–39; skill at reproducing American dishes, 50–52
Cantonese cuisine: arrival in America, 39; and changing American culinary preferences, 171, 179–80, 181, 199; chop suey cuisine as reinvented version of, xvii, 100, 110–23; reputation of in China, 39–40
Cantonese language and dialects, 9, 11, 20, 24, 56; “sung” tones in, 20, 203
Cantonese-speakers and Mandarin-speakers, rivalries of in postwar U.S., 171, 172, 180
Carr, Allan, 220–21
CCBA. See Chinese Consolidated Benevo lent Association
cha siu (alt., cha shao; cooking technique), 38
Chan, Shiu Wong, 125–27, 149–50, 212
Chan, Sucheng, 77
Chao, Buwei Yang: and American kitchen equipment, 159; attitude toward cookbook conventions, 154; educational background of, 148, 150; elucidation of Chinese culinary context by, 158; and home cook’s perspective, 150; knowledge of regional Chinese cuisines, 148; marriage to Yuenren Chao, 140; medical career of, 144, 148; memoir of, 161; upbringing of, 148; written voice of, 151; and xiang banfa mentality, 155
Chao, Yuanren: and Chinese language reform effort, 152–53; fluency of in English, 140, 152; and How to Cook and Eat in Chinese, 153, 155–56; as linguist, 148
Chen, Joyce, 180, 201, 209–10, 230
Chiang, Cecilia, 180–81, 220–21, 249–50
Chiang Jung-feng, 225–26
Chiang Kai-shek, 142, 146; as U.S. Cold War ally, 167–68, 172, 177, 192, 249
Chicago Chinatown: and Chinese restaurants, 89, 93–94, 141, 182; and the Emperor Protection Society, 141
Chicago Tribune, 93–94, 141, 182
Child, Julia, 232
Chin, Vincent, 245
China Institute (New York), as cooking school venue, 199–200, 202
China Moon (restaurant; San Francisco), 243
Chinatowns, in the United States: as cultural hubs for Chinese Americans, 90; dispersal from by Chinese Americans, 110, 132–35, 137; economic decline of, 132; frequented by whites, 93–94, 100, 109, 110; Henry George on, 61, 86, 91; preferred occupations in and around, 91–92; renewed growth of through recent immigration, 247, 251, 252–53; as shelters from racial persecution, 88; spread of from West Coast, 88–90. See also Boston Chinatown; Chicago Chinatown; Flushing, NY; New York City; Philadelphia Chinatown; San Francisco
Chinese American associations: and anti-racist efforts, 80–81; and CCBA legal initiatives, 81; different forms of, 80–81, 141; southern Guangdong origins of, 79; and traditional networking (guanxi), 79
Chinese American cuisine: as constructed culinary amalgam, xviii–xix, 41–42, 92–93, 99–100, 257; lasting appeal of to non-Chinese clientele, 137, 257; publicized through newspapers and wire services, 101
Chinese American families: absence of during Exclusion era, 72; and distorted sex ratio of Chinese American community, 75, 82, 95; immigration authorities’ harassment as obstacle to formation of, 76, 77; position of women in Guangdong as obstacle to formation of, 73–74, 75–76; Wong Kim Ark decision as encouragement to formation of, 82, 95
Chinese American historical societies, 244
Chinese American restaurants: and African American patrons, 111; and Chinese patrons, 53, 99, 222–23, 247, 248, 251, 253, 258; in China towns, 92, 99; as employment ghetto, 143, 233–34, 244–45; and experimental East–West hybridization, 243; as family-owned enterprises, 132–34, 257–59; in isolated towns and districts, 132–37; in non-Chinese neighborhoods, 110–12, 173, 175, 181; origins of in hostile racial climate, xvi, 99, 101, 257; ratings of by non-Chinese food authorities, xvi, 234, 236; scrutiny of by immigration authorities, 91; and shifting culinary fashions, 235, 236; and white patrons, xvi, 3, 50, 52, 92, 94, 109, 123, 132, 134, 137, 138, 164, 173–76, 234, 244, 256–58, 261–62
Chinese Classic Cuisine (Simonds), 240
Chinese Consolidated Benevolent Association (CCBA), 81; and Chiang Kai-shek regime, 172, 244; as spearhead of legal effort against Geary Act, 81; and Wong Kim Ark case, 81–82
Chinese Cook Book, The (Chan), 125–27, 149–50
Chinese Cookbook, The (Claiborne and Lee), 219–20
Chinese Cookery in the Home Kitchen (Nolton), 108–9, 114–15, 119–20, 124–25, 130
“Chinese Cooking” (Wong), 105–6
Chinese cooking implements and vessels, 32–33, 159, 207–8. See also knives, Chinese kitchen; wok(s)
Chinese Cuisine: Wei-Chuan Cooking Book (Huang), 196
Chinese Exclusion Act (1882), xv, 2–3, 20, 65, 66, 77, 81, 83–84, 167, 258
Chinese Festive Board, The (Lamb), 149
Chinese Gastronomy (Lin and Lin), 213–14
Chinese-language cookbooks and written recipes, paucity of in China, 104, 159. See also English-language instruction in Chinese cooking
Chinese languages, 8; difficulty of learning by Westerners, 24–25; ideogrammatic written characters in, 24; “sung” tones of, 20, 203. See also Cantonese language
Chinese noodles and noodle dishes: “Both Sides Brown,” 119–20; chow fun, 119; chow mein, 119–21, 134; lo mein, 121; min or mian as term for wheat or wheat noodles, 119
“The Chinese on the Pacific Coast” (George), 61
Chinese restaurant menus: concessions to Western preferences, 123; split menus, 123
Chinese Snacks (Huang), 196
Chinese soups and soup noodle dishes: egg drop soup, 118; importance of stock to, 118; wonton soup, 118, 123; wor mein, 123; yat ca mein, 122–23
Chinese Tea House (restaurant; Chicago), 182
Chinese Technique (Hom and Steiman), 240–41
Chinese War Brides Act (1946), 171
Chinn, Thomas W., 244
Chinois on Main (restaurant; Los Angeles), 243
Chongqing, Sichuan Province, 167, 168
chop suey: American authorities’ directions for making, 127–32; American cooks’ understanding of term, 127; as category of stir-fried dishes, 105; derivation of term, 105; as first U.S. ethnic crossover craze, 101; as fixture of Chinese American restaurant menus, 118–16; and Li Hung Chang visit, 93; mistaken omission of word chow, 106–7; white cooks’ improvisations on, 129–30
“chop suey pan” (wok), 108. See also wok(s)
“chop suey stoves,” 108
chow (alt., chau, chao; cooking technique), 106–10, 118
chow chop suey, original meaning of, vii, xix, 106–7. See also chop suey
Choy, Philip P., 244
Chu, Grace Zia: consultant on The Cooking of China, 216–18; as cooking teacher, 185, 200, 202; Madame Chu’s Chinese Cooking School, 221–22; The Pleasures of Chinese Cooking, 208–9
Cixi, Empress Dowager, 139, 140
Coe, Andrew, 120
cohong, 13–14
Cold War, 167, 176; and American exposure to non-Cantonese Chinese cuisines, 169, 170, 173; impact of on Cantonese American community, 172, 177, 190; and influx of Chinese elite to Washington and New York, 168, 171; and support of Nationalist regime in Taiwan, 192
Convention of Beijing (1860), 15
Cook, The (newsletter), 106, 113
Cook at Home in Chinese (Low), 149–50, 159–60
Cooke, George Wingrove, 26–27, 32, 38, 67
cooking and eating utensils, American vs. Chinese, 51, 109, 159, 230
cooking fats, 35–36, 108, 113, 120, 124, 127, 130
Cooking of China, The (Hahn/Time-Life), 215–18
cooking stoves: braziers as, 32, 107, 134; gas- or electric-powered, 108, 134–35; master chefs’, 221; restaurant versions of, 103, 134–35
cooking times, importance of, 32, 33–34, 103, 108–9, 124, 127, 128, 131
Cook’s Oracle, The (Kitchiner), 30
Cook’s Tour of San Francisco, A (Muscatine), 181–82
coolies and coolieism, 21–22, 64, 76
Cost, Bruce, 241
“Counter Intelligence” (news column), 243
crabs: Chinese freshwater “hairy or “mitten,” 156; as compared with Chesapeake blue crabs, 158; as compared with Dungeness crabs, 162
“credit ticket” passage to United States, 22, 64, 76
Crocker, Charles, 60
cuisines of ethnic Chinese sojourners: in Cuba, East India, and Ecuador, 248; in Peru, 186–87, 248; in Vietnam, 247
culinary concepts and terminology, 31, 37–38, 153, 155–56; as barriers to mutual understanding, 26, 34, 44, 69, 104–5, 106–7, 138, 202–5
cutting and dicing (cooking techniques), 32, 33–34, 37, 108, 119, 218, 220
Daniels, Roger, 245
Daoguang Emperor, 7
Delavan, James, 51
Delfs, Robert A., 225
Deng Xiaoping, 177, 250, 255–56
dim sum (alt., dian xin), 156, 241–42
Dim Sum Book (Lo), 242
Dreaming of Gold, Dreaming of Home (Hsu), 53
duck sauce, 118
dumplings, 113, 157, 162, 181–82, 218, 242
Durdin, Peggy, 249
Eater’s Guide to Chinese Characters, An (McCawley), 239–40
egg rolls, 118, 149–50, 277n40
Eight Immortal Flavors (Kan and Leong), 210–13
emigration. See immigration/emigration
Empress of China, 14
English language, difficulty of learning by Chinese, 24–25, 95, 262
English-language instruction in Chinese cooking: and Chao family’s pedagogical breakthrough, 151–53, 155–60; and cooking schools, 194, 198–202; developments in during 1970s and 80s, 240–42; first attempts at in U.S. Chinese cookbooks, 124–32; and Gourmet magazine, 236–39; handling of language problems in, 202–4; and innovations in presentation of recipes, 214–18, 224–27; and postwar cookbooks, 191, 205–14, 212–29; and Taiwanese connection, 192–98
Epstein, Jason, 162
faan / sung or fan / cai distinction, 33
families, Chinese American. See Chinese American families.
Father and Glorious Descendant (Lowe), 148
Fee, Jeffrey M., 87
Feng, Doreen Yen Hung, 205–7
Field, Michael, 216–17
fishing, by Chinese: and abalone, 58; on Pacific coast: 57–59, 86; rivalry with Genoese and Sicilians, 86
Florence Lin’s Chinese One-Dish Meals (Lin), 222
Florence Lin’s Chinese Regional Cookbook (Lin), 222–23
Florence Lin’s Complete Book of Chinese Noodles, Dumplings and Breads (Lin), 241
Florence Lin’s Cooking with Fire Pots (Lin), 222
Florence Lin’s Vegetarian Chinese Cookbook (Lin), 222
Flushing, NY, 168, 247, 251, 252
Food in Chinese Culture (Chang), 239
Food of China, The (Anderson), 240
food plants, raised by Chinese in U.S., 101–2
foo young, 122
400 Million Customers (Crow), 144
French and Chinese cuisines compared, 38, 40
Fujian Province, 8, 9, 12, 16; and illegal immigration, 250–51. See also Hokkienese
Fujianese restaurants, 251
General Tso’s chicken, 187–88
Gibson, Otis, 100
Gold, Jonathan, 243
“Gold Mountain,” as term, xv, 21, 24, 41, 47, 72, 74, 79, 210, 259
Gold Rush: to Australia, 17; to Canada, 17; to California, 21, 41, 44, 45–46, 47, 52, 55–57, 59, 63
Good Food of Szechwan, The (Delfs), 225
Gourmet (magazine), 237–39
Great Cooks’ Guide to Woks, Steamers & Fire Pots, The (Lin), 231
Great Shanghai (restaurant; New York), 180
Great Shanghai (restaurant; San Francisco), 181
Greene, Gael, 178, 179, 184, 223
Guangdong Province, 7–11, 15–16, 75; long-distance marriage customs in, 73–75. See also Pearl River Delta
Guangzhou, 10, 11, 12–14, 19, 39; as treaty port, 16
Guarnaschelli, Maria, 241
Guomindang (GMD), 141, 142, 143, 165; and Nationalist flight to Taiwan, 167–69
Hakka people, 15, 169, 248, 254
Hangzhou (Hangchow), 42–43
Hart-Celler Act (1965), xx, 1–4, 176, 258, 259; demographic consequences of, 234–45; and ethnic Chinese in Southeast Asia, 246–47; and mainland Chinese emigration, 248, 250–51
“hash”: meaning of term in California Gold Rush, 34; as translation for Cantonese stir-fried dishes, 34
Hee Seung Fung (restaurant; New York), 242
History of California (Bancroft), 54, 75
History of the Chinese in California: A Syllabus, A (Chinn, Lai, and Choy), 244
Hocking, Agnes, 151
Hocking, William Ernest, 151
Hokkienese, 9, 12, 18, 246, 247
Hong Kong: and California Gold Rush, 17–18; and opium trafficking, 78; and overseas prostitution trade, 76–77; and San Francisco-bound flow of goods and labor, 19, 20–22, 23, 47, 60; and Treaty of Nanjing, 16
“Housekeeper’s Chat” (radio show), 128–29
How to Cook and Eat in Chinese (Chao): acquisition of by John Day, 148, 153–54; bilingual table of recipes in, 154; coinage of terms “stir-fry” and “pot-sticker” in, 152, 162; and cuisine of Jiangnan-Lower Yangzi region, 156–57; English translation of as Chao family effort, 151–52, 153, 155–56; focus on home cooking in, 149, 159–60; John Day’s promotion of, 154–55; successive editions of, 161–63, 205
How to Order and Eat in Chinese (Chao), 163–64
Hsu, Karate, 186
Hsu, Madeline, 53
Hu Shih, 154
hua gong: defined, 19; forcibly recruited, 21–22; as special targets of white enmity, 46, 54, 56, 60, 63; voluntarily recruited, 21
hua shang: defined, 18; and immunity from deportation under Chinese Exclusion Act, 66; protection of hua gong by, 46, 66; recruitment of Chinese railroad workers by, 60; and Toisan–California flow of people and goods, 20–21, 22–23, 44, 45, 46, 47, 53, 57; transition of to modern “businessman” role, 79
hui. See Chinese American associations
Hunam (restaurant; New York), 182–83
Hunanese restaurants, 182–84, 186, 187
Immigration and Naturalization Act (1965). See Hart-Celler Act
immigration/emigration: and concept of naturalized citizenship, xvi, 17; exclusion from immigrant status of Chinese residents in U.S., xvi, xix, 82, 95; immigration quota for Chinese under Magnuson Act, 147, 167; as modern Western concepts, 18, 72; revised immigration quotas under Hart-Celler Act, 250; and “sojourner” concept, 18
India, 42; and opium trade, 15, 78
ingredients, in Chinese cuisine: grown or manufactured in U.S., 58–59, 101–2, 135–36; imported from China, 46, 53, 102, 135–36, 152, 172–73; U.S. substitutes for, 116, 120–21, 123, 127, 129, 158, 209, 210
Irish immigrants, Chinese rivalry for service jobs with, 70
Japan: annexation of Taiwan and Manchuria by, 85–86, 143, 165; 1937 invasion of China by, 165–66, 168; surrender of Taiwan by, 169
Japanese American–Chinese American relations, 83, 86, 146, 167, 245
Jews of the East, The (Rama VI), 246
Jiangnan region, 149
Jiangnan–Lower Yangzi cuisine, 149, 156–57, 181, 220
John, Griffith, 39
John Day Company: and career of Pearl Buck, 145–46; and How to Cook and Eat in Chinese, 148, 153–55, 156, 161–62, 202, 205; specialization of in Asia-focused books, 146
Johnson, Pres. Lyndon, 1–2, 3, 176, 246
Johnson-Reed Act (1924), 2, 85
Joy Hing Lo (restaurant; Chicago), 93–94
Joy of Chinese Cooking, The (Feng), 205–7
Joyce Chen Cook Book (Chen), 209–10
Joyce Chen Cooks (television show), 180
Joyce Chen Restaurant (Cambridge, MA), 180
Kan, Johnny, 201, 210–13, 261, 286n31
Keaton, Buster, 115
Keller, Frederick, 70
Kelly, William, 52
Kennedy, Edward, 1
Kennedy, Robert, 1
Key to Chinese Cooking, The (Kuo), 226–29
Kikkoman, 242–43
King Joy Lo (restaurant; Chicago), 141
King Wah (restaurant; San Antonio), 186
Kissinger, Henry A., 176–77, 180
knives, Chinese kitchen, 30, 32–33, 37, 159, 208. See also Chinese cooking implements and vessels
Kodansha, 225
Kong Sung’s (restaurant; San Francisco), 47
Korean War, 172
Kuo, Irene, 226–29
Kwoh, Emily, 182
Kuomintang (KMT). See Guomindang
La Choy Company, 116, 121, 278n44
Lamb, Corrine, 149
language reform: as political priority in post-Qing China, 152; Yuenren Chao as proponent of, 152
laundries: as preferred Chinese occupation, 56, 67, 91–92; shift from to restaurant business, 92
Lee, Gary, 231
Lee, Jennifer 8., 188
Lee, Mailan, 201
Lee, Rose Hum, 166
Lee, William Poy, 20
lemon chicken, 189–90
Leong, Annie, 133
Leong, Charles L., 210–13
Leung, Mai, 241–42
Li Hung Chang (Li Hongzhang), 93, 101, 109–10, 138–39
Li Shu-fan, 105
Lin, Florence: as advisor to The Cooking of China, 216–18; as cooking teacher, 200, 201, 202, 222; Florence Lin’s Chinese One-Dish Meals, 222; Florence Lin’s Chinese Regional Cookbook and rising awareness of regional cuisines in U.S., 222–23; Florence Lin’s Complete Book of Chinese Noodles, Dumplings and Breads, 241; Florence Lin’s Cooking with Fire Pots, 222; Florence Lin’s Vegetarian Chinese Cookbook as pioneer work on meatless Chinese cooking, 222
Lin Yutang, 147, 154, 200, 207
Liu Kin-Shan, 39
Lo, Betty, 182
Lo, Eileen Yin-Fei, 212–13, 242
Lo, Peter, 182
Longtime Californ’: A Documentary Study of an American Chinatown (Nee and Nee), 233, 245, 257
Loomis, Rev. A. W., 60
Low, Henry, 149–50, 159–60, 174
Lower Yangzi region, 156–57
Macau (alt., Macao), 12, 13, 16, 20, 22
Madame Chu’s Chinese Cooking School (Chu), 221–22
Manchuria, 85
Manchurian (restaurant; San Francisco), 181
“Mandarin” cuisine, 180–82, 209, 212
Mandarin (restaurant; San Francisco), 181–82
Mandarin (restaurant; Chicago), 182
Mandarin East (restaurant; New York), 182
Mandarin House (restaurant; New York), 182
“Mao’s ‘Great Crime’ Against Cuisine” (Durdin), 249
Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Beck, Bertholle, and Child), 214–15, 224, 229
McCarran-Walter Act (1952), 3
McCarthy, Joseph, 172
McCawley, James D., 239–40
McCullough, Frances, 225, 226, 241–42
meal, Chinese concept of, 32–33; adaptation of to American-style courses by Chinese American restaurants, 117, 128
meats: butchering and cooking of by nineteenth-century American cooks, 30; pre-eminence of pork in China, 158; prestige of beef in U.S., 31
Meng liang lu (Wu), 43
Miller, Bryan, 239
Miller, Gloria Bley, 213
Modern Art of Chinese Cooking, The (Tropp), 241
monosodium glutamate (MSG), 150, 160, 216, 220
Moy, Carolyn, 227
Moyers, Bill, 2
Mrs. Allen’s Cook Book (Allen), 115
Mrs. Chiang’s Szechwan Cookbook (Schrecker), 225–26
Mulford, Prentice, 46, 53, 68–69
Muscatine, Doris, 181–82
Namioka, Lensey Chao, 163
Nanyang (Chinese name for maritime Southeast Asia), 9, 11, 12, 18, 44–45, 58, 74, 246–47
Nast, Thomas, 64
National Origins Act (1924). See Johnson-Reed Act (1924)
National Taiwan University, 193
Nationalist China. See Taiwan
Navarrete, Domingo Fernandez de, 68
New Culture movement, 152
Newman, Jacqueline M., 254
New York City: Chinese vegetables being sold in Chinatown, 101–2; expansion of Chinatown restaurants, 110–12; Fujianese influx to Chinatown, 251; influential restaurant reviewers in, 178, 183; Li Hung Chang’s visit to, 92–93; origins of Manhattan Chinatown, 89; rise of Brooklyn and Queens Chinatowns, 252–53; Shanghainese restaurants on upper Broadway, 179–80; Shun Lee Dynasty as harbinger of upscale Chinese restaurants in, 175–76; Sichuanese and Hunanese restaurants in, 175–76, 178, 179, 182–84; whites frequenting Chinatown restaurants, 100; Wong article on Chinese in, 106
New York Places and Pleasures (Simon), 180
New York Times, 110–11, 155, 176, 183, 201, 222
Nickerson, Jane (Jane Holt), 155, 160
Noble, Charles Frederick, 26
Nolton, Jessie Louise, 108–9, 114–15, 120, 124–25, 130
North China Restaurant (San Francisco), 181
O’Meara, James, 49–50
opium: British as instigators of Far Eastern traffic in, 13, 15, 16; as preferred drug of Chinese American community, 77–79; role of in nineteenth-century destabilization of China, 15, 16, 19, 78; as rumored chop suey ingredient, 77, 127
Oriental Country Store, 210
Pacific Coast salmon canneries: Chinese workers in, 86–87; and “Iron Chink,” 87
Page Act (1875), 77
“paper son” fraud, 82, 143, 172, 176, 262
Pearl River Delta: geography of, 10; and rise of Hong Kong transpacific traffic, 16, 20–21; as water route to Guangzhou, 10, 12, 13, 14
Pearl’s (restaurant; New York), 189–90
Pei Mei’s Cook Book, 195
Peking duck: in English-language cookbooks, 212, 217, 220; as instance of cha siu roasting technique, 38
Peking (restaurant; Washington, DC), 173
Peking Jr. (restaurant; San Antonio), 186
Peking Palace. See Yenching Palace (restaurant; Washington, DC)
Peng Chang-kuei, 187–88
People’s Republic of China: culinary decline of during Cultural Revolution and Great Leap Forward, 249, 250, 251–52; détente with United States, 177; founding of, 168; illegal emigration from, 250–51; legal emigration from, 250; Nixon’s visit to, 177; and Taiwan, 192; and Tiananmen Square massacre, 255–56; travel barriers to during Cold War, 217–18; United Nations recognition of, 177; U.S. recognition of, 177, 235, 249; U.S. trade embargo on, 172, 177
Pepin, Jacques, 240–41
Peter Lo’s Mandarin Restaurant (Chicago), 182
Philadelphia Chinatown, 89
pinyin romanization system, 16, 24–25, 203
Pleasures of Chinese Cooking, The (Chu), 208–9
plum sauce. See duck sauce
Polo, Marco, 42
Port Arthur (restaurant; New York), 149
Portland, OR, Chinese in, 27, 87, 211
Princeton University, 193
prostitution, role of in Chinese American community, 76–77. See also Chinese American families; Guangdong: long-distance marriage customs in
Puck, Wolfgang, 243
Qing dynasty, 7–8, 10, 12, 15–16, 18, 21, 66, 81; collapse of, 138, 140–42
race relations, in the United States: and anti-Chinese violence, 55, 63–64, 87; and barriers to Chinese American employment opportunities, 143, 233–34, 244–45; and Chinese Exclusion Act, 65; and cooking as fallback occupation, 67–71; deterioration of in Far West, 55–56, 60–61, 63–64, 69; and eugenics movement, 84–85; as factor in development of chop suey cuisine, xvi, 99, 100; future of, 234–35, 258–59; and Johnson-Reed Act, 85; and perceived status of Chinese American restaurants, 234–35, 236; and restaurant clientele–staff dynamic, 3, 234, 253; shifts in during 1920s and 1930s, 144–45; shifts in during 1970s and 1980s, 185; and U.S. labor movement, 60–61, 63–65; and World War II, 166–67
railroads, built by Chinese laborers: Canadian Pacific, 61; Central Pacific, 59–61; subsidiary links, 88
Rama VI, king of Thailand, 246
Reagan, Pres. Ronald, 255
red-cooking (cooking technique): and pressure-cooking, 161; as signature cooking technique of Jiangnan region, 157
regional Chinese cuisines, 170, 175–76, 252; Buwei Yang Chao’s representation of, 149, 157; Florence Lin’s representation of, 222–24; Taiwan as meeting point for, 169, 192–93
Reichl, Ruth, 239
Republic of China. See Taiwan
rice: basic cooking of, 32; as core element of Cantonese meal, 33; double-cropping Champa strain of, 44–45; industrial milling of, 45; stir-fried, 114, 122, 134
Rock Springs massacre (WY), 64
Ryan, William Redmond, 52
Sacramento-San Joaquin Delta, land reclamation by Chinese in, 61–63
Sala, George Augustus, 100
San Francisco: and arrival of Chinese in, 22, 23; and California Gold Rush, 17; and Chinese source of building supplies, 47; dispersal from by Chinese prospectors in Far West, 56, 57; early anti-racist efforts centered in, 80–81; early Chinese restaurants in, 47–52, 53, 100; economic decline of, 89–90; and flow of imported Chinese foods, 53, 135; Hong Kong trade networks with, 17, 53, 76, 78, 135; initial welcome of Chinese in, 48, 50, 57; “Little China,” 54, 57; modern Chinese restaurants in, 181–82, 242–43; 1906 earthquake and destruction of Chinatown, 82; portrayal of Chinatown in Longtime Californ’, 233; touristic rebuilding of Chinatown, 92
San Francisco Chongwah Huiguan, 80–81
San Gabriel Valley, CA, 195–97, 243
San Yi (or Sam Yup). See Three Counties
Schafer, Charles, 231
Schafer, Violet, 231
Schoenfeld, Ed, 184–86, 199, 200
Schrecker, Ellen, 225–26
Schrecker, John, 225–26
Secrets of Chinese Cooking (Lin and Lin), 207
“The Servant Question” (Keller), 70
Shake Hands with the Dragon (Glick), 147
Shanghai, 16, 165; as culinary center, 156; forcible labor recruitment in, 22; and New York restaurants, 179–80
Shanghai Café (New York), 179
Shanghai East (restaurant; New York, Houston), 182, 186
Shanghainese restaurants, 179–80, 182
Shaw, William, 51
Shen, Alex, 183
Shen, Anna, 183
Sheraton, Mimi, 255
Shun Lee (restaurant; New York), 175
Shun Lee Dynasty (restaurant; New York), 175–76
Shun Lee Palace (restaurant; New York), 179
Shurtleff, William, 240
Si Yi (or Sze Yup). See Four Counties
Sichuan cuisine: both Chinese and foreigners exposed to during World War II, 168, 170; and U.S. Sichuanese culinary vogue, 179, 182, 186, 225–26
Sigel, Elsie, 89
Simon, Kate, 180
Simonds, Nina: and Gourmet magazine series on Chinese cuisine, 237–39, 240; as translator of early Wei-Chuan cookbooks, 196
Sinn, Elizabeth, 76
Six Companies, 80–81
“snakeheads,” 251
sojourners and sojourning (qiao), Chinese concept of, 18. See also immigration/emigration
Sokolov, Raymond, 183, 189–90, 223, 239
Soong Mei-ling (Madame Chiang Kai-shek), 199, 200
soy sauce, 34–35, 112–16; brewed vs. hydrolyzed, 116, 242–43
spring rolls, 118, 149–50, 277n40
steaming (cooking technique), 31, 159
Steiman, Harvey, 240–42
Steward’s Handbook, The (Whitehead), 103
stir-frying (cooking technique), 31, 106, 155, 212, 231–32. See also chop suey; chow
Street, Julian, 160
Street, Richard Steven, 168
sugar: American fondness for, 116–17, 188–90; as product of Guangdong Province, 121
Suiyuan Shidan (Yuan Mei), 104
Sun Yat-sen (Sun Zhongshan), 141, 172
Sunset (magazine), 231
Sweet and Sour (Jung), 133
sweet-and-sour dishes: 118, 121–22, 134; pineapple and, 212–22
Taiping Rebellion, 15–16
Taiwan: and academic exchanges with United States, 193–94; as conduit of mainland-born Chinese to U.S., 195–96; cookbook publishing on, 195, 196; cooking schools on, 193, 195; emigration from to San Gabriel Valley, 195–96; Japanese annexation of, 85, 145; Japanese surrender of, 169; as microcosm of mainland Chinese culinary influences, 192; Nationalist flight to, 167, 168, 169, 172; and North American ethnoburbs, 196, 247–48; postwar affluence of, 192; U.S. alliance with, 192
Taiwanese immigration to U.S., 195–97, 243. See also ethnoburbs
Taylor, Bayard, 47
Taylor & Ng, 230
Teochiu (Chaozhou) people, 254
Texas Monthly, 186–87
Thai cuisine, American culinary vogue of, 236
This Bittersweet Soil (Chan), 245
Thousand Recipe Chinese Cookbook, The (Miller), 213
Tiananmen Square massacre, 255–56
Time-Life “Foods of the World” series, 215–18
Toisan (also Taishan or Hoisan) County, Guangdong Province: dialect of, 20; economic dependence of on remittances from U.S. relatives, 21, 172; poverty of, 20; as principal source of Chinese labor to U.S., 20, 21, 82–83, 180
Tong, Michael, 175, 179, 182, 183
Tong-Ling’s (restaurant; San Francisco), 47
tongs. See Chinese American associations
Treaty of Nanjing (1842), 7, 15, 16, 264n1
treaty ports, 16
triads. See Chinese American associations
Trillin, Calvin, 254
tsap sui. See chop suey
Uncle Peng’s Hunan Yuan (restaurant; New York), 183, 187
Uncle Tai’s Hunan Yuan (restaurant; New York, Houston, Boca Raton), 183, 186
United States vs. Wong Kim Ark, 81–82; effect of on Chinese American birthrate, 82, 95; and “paper son” scam, 82–83
Van Lung, S., 174
vegetable gardening, by Chinese, 58–59, 87; on terraced fields, 87
Vietnam War, and displacement of ethnic Chinese, 246–47
Walsh, Richard J.: and publication of How to Cook and Eat in Chinese, 148, 153–55, 156, 161–62, 205; as publisher of John Day Company, 145; relationship of with Pearl Buck, 146
Walsh, Richard J., Jr., 153
Wang Gungwu, 18–19
water chestnuts and other aquatic roots, 102, 124, 129
Watergate scandal, 249
Wei-Chuan Foods Corporation (Taipei): cooking school founded by, 194, 195–96; Los Angeles branch, 197; as publisher of English-language and bilingual cookbooks, 196
Wei-Chuan Publishing, as U.S.-based cookbook publisher, 197–98, 204
Whang-Tong’s (restaurant; San Francisco), 47
Wing Chinfoo. See Wong Chin Foo
Wo Kee (Wong Acton), 89
Wok, The (Lee), 231
Wokcraft (Schafer and Schafer), 231
wok hei (huo qi), 109
woks, 22, 32, 103, 126; adaptor rings for, 108, 211; commercial U.S. embellishments of, 230; flat-bottomed, 230; as 1970s fad, 229–31; skillets as substitutes for, 159, 230
women: absence of in Chinese American community, 75–76, 77, 94; barriers to immigration of, 77; culinary teaching and writing opportunities for, in postwar U.S., 171; educational opportunities for, in post-Qing China, 139; educational opportunities for, in U.S., 139; limited roles for in Chinese American community, 76, 77; seclusion of in Guangdong society, 75
Wong Chin Foo, 106, 112–13, 119
Wong, Jade Snow, 166
Wong, James, 189
Wong Kim Ark. See United States vs. Wong Kim Ark
Wong, Pearl, 189–90
Wong, Quong, 133
Woodworth, Selim E. 48
World War II: and Chinese geopolitical role, 146–47; and expanded employment opportunities for Chinese Americans, 166; and interruption of food imports from China, 158–59; and political gains for Chinese Americans, 166; and repeal of Exclusion, 147, 167
Wu Zimu, 43
xiang banfa, 19, 26, 44, 66–67, 155, 158, 171, 257; defined, xv
Xinning or Sunning County. See Toisan County
Yang, Buwei. See Buwei Yang Chao
Yank Sing (restaurant; San Francisco), 242
Yee, Mary Tsui Ping, 33
Yenching Palace (restaurant; Washington, DC), 174
Yeung Sun (restaurant; New York), 251
Yerba Buena, 7, 17. See also San Francisco
Yuan Mei, 104
Yuan Shikai, 141
Zakroff, Zanne, 237–38
za sui. See chop suey