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LINCOLNSHIRE

Lincolnshire unfolds over low hills and the sparsely populated, pancake-flat Fens where the farmland is strewn with windmills and, more recently, wind turbines. Surrounding the history-steeped county town of Lincoln you’ll find seaside resorts, scenic waterways, serene nature reserves and stone-built towns tailor-made for English period dramas.

Two of the county’s most famous ‘yellowbellies’ (as Lincolnshire locals call themselves) were Sir Isaac Newton, whose home, Woolsthorpe Manor, can be visited, and the late former prime minister Margaret Thatcher, the daughter of a humble greengrocer from the market town of Grantham.

2Activities

Traversing the area occupied by Norse invaders in the 9th century, the 147-mile Viking Way walking trail snakes across the gentle hills of the Lincolnshire Wolds from the banks of the River Humber to Oakham in Rutland.

Cyclists can find information on routes across the county in any of the local tourist offices. The 33-mile Water Rail Way is a flat, sculpture-lined on-road cycling route that follows the River Witham through classic Fens countryside along the former railway line between Lincoln and Boston.

8Getting There & Away

East Midlands trains connect Lincoln, Newark Castle and Nottingham. Newark North Gate and Grantham lie on the East Coast Main Line between London King’s Cross and Edinburgh.

Local buses link Lincolnshire’s towns, but services are slow and infrequent. Check the transport pages at www.lincolnshire.gov.uk.

Comprehensive transport information is available from Traveline.

Lincoln

%01522 / Pop 97,541

Ringed by historic city gates – including the Newport Arch on Bailgate, a relic from the original Roman settlement – this beautiful city’s old centre is a tangle of cobbled medieval streets surrounding its 11th-century castle and colossal 12th-century cathedral. The lanes that topple over the edge of Lincoln Cliff are lined with Tudor town houses, ancient pubs and independent shops.

Flanking the River Witham at the base of the hill, the new town is less absorbing, but the revitalised Brayford Waterfront development by the university is a popular spot to watch the boats go by.

Lincoln

1Top Sights

1 Lincoln CastleC2

2Lincoln CathedralD2

1Sights

3Bishops’ PalaceD2

4CollectionC3

5Museum of Lincolnshire LifeB1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

6Brayford BelleB4

7Ghost WalksC2

4Sleeping

8Bail HouseC1

9Castle HotelC1

5Eating

10Bronze PigB1

11Brown’s Pie ShopC2

12Cheese SocietyC3

13Jews HouseC2

Reform(see 9)

14Stokes High Bridge CaféC4

6Drinking & Nightlife

15Cosy ClubC4

16Strugglers InnB1

3Entertainment

17Engine ShedB4

1Sights

oLincoln CathedralCATHEDRAL

(map Google map; %01522-561600; www.lincolncathedral.com; Minster Yard; adult/child joint ticket with castle £17.20/9.60, cathedral £8/4.80 Mon-Sat, by donation before 9am, after 4.30pm & all day Sun; h7.15am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, 7.15am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun Sep-Jun)

Towering over the city like a medieval skyscraper, Lincoln’s magnificent cathedral is a breathtaking representation of divine power on earth. The great tower rising above the crossing is the third-highest in England at 83m, but in medieval times, a lead-encased wooden spire added a further 79m, topping even the great pyramids of Giza. One-hour guided tours (included in admission) take place at least twice Monday to Saturday; there are also tours of the roof and tower (£4; book in advance).

The vast interior of the church is too large for modern congregations – services take place instead in St Hugh’s Choir, a church within a church running east from the crossing. The choir stalls are accessed through a magnificent carved stone screen; look north to see the stunning rose window known as the Dean’s Eye (c 1192), mirrored to the south by the floral flourishes of the Bishop’s Eye (1330). There’s more stained glass in the three Services Chapels in the north transept.

Beyond St Hugh’s Choir, the Angel Choir is supported by 28 columns topped by carvings of angels and foliate scrollwork. Other interesting details include the 10-sided chapterhouse – where Edward I held his parliament and where the climax of the Da Vinci Code was filmed in 2005.

The best time to hear the organ resounding through the cathedral is during evensong; check times online.

oLincoln CastleCASTLE

(map Google map; %01522-554559; www.lincolncastle.com; Castle Hill; adult/child joint ticket with cathedral £17.20/9.60, castle day ticket £13.50/7.20, walls only £7.50/5, grounds free; h10am-5pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar)

One of the first castles erected by the victorious William the Conqueror, in 1068, to keep his new kingdom in line, Lincoln Castle offers awesome views over the city and miles of surrounding countryside. A major 2015-completed restoration program opened up the entire castle walls and gave the 1215 Magna Carta (one of only four copies) a swanky, subterranean new home. One-hour guided tours, included in the castle admission, depart from the eastern gate; check the blackboard for times.

Bishops’ PalaceRUINS

(map Google map; EH; %01522-527468; www.english-heritage.org.uk; Minster Yard; adult/child £5.90/3.50; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun Apr-Sep, to 5pm Wed-Sun Oct, to 4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

Beside Lincoln Cathedral lie the time-ravaged but still imposing ruins of the 12th-century Bishops’ Palace, gutted by parliamentary forces during the Civil War. From here, the local bishops once controlled a diocese stretching from the Humber to the Thames. Entertaining audio guides are included in admission. Grapevines are planted in its hillside terraced garden.

Museum of Lincolnshire LifeMUSEUM

(map Google map; %01522-782040; www.lincolnshire.gov.uk; Old Barracks, Burton Rd; h10am-4pm) F

Displays at this charming community museum housed in an old Victorian barracks span everything from Victorian farm implements to the tin-can tank built in Lincoln for WWI.

CollectionMUSEUM

(map Google map; %01522-782040; www.thecollectionmuseum.com; Danes Tce; h10am-4pm, from 10.45am 1st Mon of month) F

Archaeology bursts into life at this museum, with loads of hands-on displays. Kids can handle artefacts and dress up in period costume. Check out the crushed skull of a 4000-year-old ‘yellowbelly’ (as locals are dubbed), pulled from a Neolithic burial site near Sleaford. Free one-hour tours run at 2pm on Saturdays. Look out for various evening events.

ExchequergateHISTORIC BUILDING

Located between the castle and the cathedral, the triple-arched, battlement-topped Exchequergate, where the church’s tenants paid their rent, dates from the 14th century. A black-and-white chequered cloth was used to help count the payments, giving rise to the term exchequer.

WORTH A TRIP

BELTON HOUSE

Amid 14.2 hectares of elegant formal gardens, Belton House (NT; %01476-566116; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Belton; house & grounds adult/child £15.70/10, grounds only £12/8.20; hhouse 12.30-5pm Wed-Sun Mar-Oct, closed Nov-Feb, grounds 9.30am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb) is a dream filming location for English period dramas, Jane Eyre, Tom Jones and the Colin Firth version of Pride and Prejudice among them. Built in 1688 in classic Restoration style, the house retains stunning original features, including ornate woodcarvings by master Dutch carver Grinling Gibbons. It’s off the A607, 2.5 miles northeast of Grantham, and is served by Stagecoach bus 1 (£2.50, 15 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday, every two hours Sunday).

The surrounding 526-hectare grounds have been home to a fallow deer herd for more than 300 years. Also on the site are a farm shop, a restaurant, a cafe and an adventure playground.

TTours

Ghost WalksWALKING

(%01673-857574; www.lincolnghostwalks.co.uk; adult/child £5/3; h7pm Wed-Sat)

Genuinely spooky 75-minute ghost walks depart adjacent to the tourist office year-round. Bookings aren’t required; turn up 10 minutes before tours begin.

Brayford BelleCRUISE

(map Google map; %01522-881200; www.lincolnboattrips.co.uk; Brayford Wharf North; adult/child £7/4; htours 11am, 12.15pm, 1.30pm, 2.45pm & 3.45pm daily Easter-Sep, hours vary Oct)

Boat trips lasting around 50 minutes aboard the Brayford Belle travel along the River Witham and Fossdyke Navigation, a canal system dating back to Roman times. No credit cards.

4Sleeping

Castle HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL££

(%01522-538801; www.castlehotel.net; Westgate; s/d/coach house incl breakfast from £90/120/220; pW)

Each of the Castle Hotel’s 18 rooms have been exquisitely refurbished in olive, truffle and oyster tones, as has its family-friendly four-person coach house. Built on the site of Lincoln’s Roman forum in 1852, the red-brick building’s incarnations variously included a school and a WWII lookout station. Take advantage of great-value dinner, bed and breakfast deals with its award-winning restaurant Reform (map Google map; www.reformrestaurant.co.uk; mains £15-22; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-9pm Wed-Sat, noon-3pm Sun).

Bail HouseB&B££

(map Google map; %01522-541000; www.bailhouse.co.uk; 34 Bailgate; d/f from £84/134; pWs)

Stone walls, worn flagstones, secluded gardens and one room with an extraordinary timber-vaulted ceiling are just some of the charms of this lovingly restored Georgian town house in central Lincoln. There’s limited on-site parking, a garden and a children’s playground, and even a seasonal heated outdoor swimming pool. Family rooms sleep four.

5Eating

Stokes High Bridge CaféCAFE£

(map Google map; www.stokes-coffee.co.uk; 207 High St; dishes £5-9; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-4pm Sun; Wvc)

A Lincoln landmark, this soaring 1540-built black-and-white Tudor building is England’s only one atop a medieval bridge (1160). Within its preserved half-timbered interior, 1892-established, family-run roastery Stokes brews superb coffees made from speciality beans. Classic fare includes English breakfasts, traditional roasts and afternoon teas.

Cheese SocietyCHEESE£

(map Google map; www.thecheesesociety.co.uk; 1 St Martin’s Lane; dishes £5-9, cheese boards £9-18; hkitchen 11am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat, shop 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)

Not only does this light, bright place stock over 90 mostly British cheeses, it also serves them at its 12-seat cafe. Try its elaborate cheese boards or dishes such as twice-baked Dorset Blue Vinney soufflé or Wensleydale and herb scones with smoked salmon.

Brown’s Pie ShopPIES, BRITISH££

(map Google map; %01522-527330; www.brownspieshop.co.uk; 33 Steep Hill; mains £9.75-26.50; hnoon-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-9.30pm Sat, to 8pm Sun)

Hearty ‘pot pies’ (no pastry bottoms) at this long-established, quintessentially British restaurant are stuffed with locally sourced beef, rabbit and game. Pies aside, traditional dishes include Lincolnshire sausages with caramelised onion gravy and slow-roasted pork belly.

oBronze PigBRITISH£££

(map Google map; %01522-524817; www.thebronzepig.co.uk; 4 Burton Rd; mains £16-27; hby reservation 6.30-10pm Wed-Sat, 11.30am-2pm Sun)

BBC MasterChef finalist Irishman Eamonn Hunt and Sicilian chef Pompeo Siracusa have taken Lincoln’s dining scene by storm since opening the Bronze Pig. Their exceptional Modern British cooking has an Italian accent and ingredients are locally sourced. Reserve well ahead and prepare to be wowed. It also has four deluxe guest rooms (doubles from £105).

Jews HouseEUROPEAN£££

(map Google map; %01522-524851; www.jewshouserestaurant.co.uk; 15 The Strait (Steep Hill); mains £16.50-25.50; h7-9.30pm Tue, noon-2pm & 7-9.30pm Wed-Sat)

This local favourite serves gourmet fare (roast wood pigeon, truffle custard and bacon foam; baked lemon sole with scallop mousse) in one of England’s oldest houses, the 1160-built Romanesque Jews House.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Cosy ClubBAR

(map Google map; www.cosyclub.co.uk; Sincil St; h9am-11pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; W)

Spectacularly converted with soaring skylit ceilings, this 1848-built corn exchange now contains one of Lincoln’s liveliest bars. Along with cocktails like English Rose (gin, rosewater, strawberries and sparkling wine) and the Earl’s Breakfast (vodka, Earl Grey tea and lime juice), it serves breakfast, brunch, tapas and international dishes.

Strugglers InnPUB

(map Google map; www.strugglers-lincoln.co.uk; 83 Westgate; hnoon-midnight Tue & Wed, to 1am Thu-Sat, to 11pm Sun & Mon)

A sunny walled-courtyard beer garden out the back, an interior warmed by an open fire and a superb selection of real ales on tap make this the pick of Lincoln’s independent pubs.

Engine ShedLIVE MUSIC

(map Google map; %0871 220 0260; www.engineshed.co.uk; Brayford Pool)

Lincoln’s largest live-music venue occupies a former railway-container storage facility. Past acts have included Kings of Leon, Fat Boy Slim and Manic Street Preachers. Music aside, it also hosts sports events, comedy and pop-up markets.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01522-545458; www.visitlincoln.com; 9 Castle Hill; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4pm Sun) In a half-timbered, 16th-century building.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

The bus station (Melville St) is just northeast of the train station in the new town.

Stagecoach buses include bus 1 to Grantham (£5.60, 1½ hours, hourly Monday to Saturday, five on Sunday).

TRAIN

The train station is 250m east of the Brayford Waterfront development in the new town.

Boston £14.40, 1¼ hours, hourly, change at Sleaford

London King’s Cross £79.50, 2¼ hours, up to three per hour; change in Newark or Peterborough

Newark-on-Trent Newark Castle; £5.40, 25 minutes, up to two per hour

Nottingham £11.90, one hour, hourly

Sheffield £15.30, 1¼ hours, hourly

Boston

%01205 / Pop 35,124

It’s hard to believe that sleepy Boston was the inspiration for its larger and more famous American cousin. Although no Boston citizens sailed on the Mayflower, the port became a conduit for persecuted Puritans fleeing Nottinghamshire for religious freedom in the Netherlands and America. In the 1630s the fiery sermons of Boston vicar John Cotton inspired many locals to follow their lead, among them the ancestors of John Quincy Adams, the sixth American president. These pioneers founded a namesake town in the new colony of Massachusetts and the rest, as they say, is history.

1Sights

Maud Foster WindmillHISTORIC BUILDING

(%01205-352188; www.maudfoster.co.uk; 16 Willoughby Rd; adult/child £4/2; h10am-5pm Wed & Sat)

About 800m northeast of Market Pl, England’s tallest working windmill, with five sails rather than the usual four, has seven creaking, trembling floors reached by steep, ladder-like staircases; it sells bags of flour milled on-site. Self-caterers can stay in the granary next door (double from £430 for three nights including a windmill tour and parking; children not permitted).

GuildhallMUSEUM

(%01205-365954; www.bostonguildhall.co.uk; South St; h10.30am-3.30pm Wed-Sat) F

Before escaping to the New World, the Pilgrim Fathers were briefly imprisoned in the 14th-century Guildhall. It’s one of Lincolnshire’s oldest brick buildings, dating from the 1390s and situated close to the River Witham. Inside are fun interactive exhibits, as well as a restored 16th-century courtroom and a recreated Georgian kitchen. Regular temporary exhibitions are also free.

St Botolph’s ChurchCHURCH

(www.parish-of-boston.org.uk; Church St; tower adult/child £5/free; hchurch visiting hours 8.30am-4pm Mon-Sat, from 7.30am Sun, tower 10am-3.30pm Mon-Sat, from 1pm Sun, last climb 3pm)

Built in the early 14th century, St Botolph’s Church (the name Boston is a corruption of ‘St Botolph’s Stone’) is known locally as the Stump, in reference to the truncated appearance of its 88m-high tower. Puff your way up the 209 steps on a clear day and you’ll see out to Lincoln, 32 miles away.

LINCOLNSHIRE: BOMBER COUNTY

The Royal Air Force (RAF) was formed in 1918 following WWI and two years later its college was established in Lincolnshire. During WWII, England’s ‘Bomber County’ was home to numerous squadrons and by 1945 had more airfields (49) than any other in the country. US Navy flying boats flew antisubmarine patrols from here and B-29 bombers were also based here.

Just south of Lincoln, the 2018-opened International Bomber Command Centre has a moving memorial and an attached museum. Lincoln’s tourist office has details of other aviation legacies throughout the county.

International Bomber Command Centre (%01522-514755; www.internationalbcc.co.uk; Kanwick Hill; memorial free, museum adult/child £7.20/4.50; hmemorial 24hr, museum 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun) Opened in 2018, this 4.5-hectare site 1.5 miles south of Lincoln centres on a 31m-high metallic spire (at 102ft, the exact length of the wingspan of a Lancaster Bomber) surrounded by rusted-metal walls inscribed with the names of the 57,861 men and women who served and supported Britain’s Bomber Command. Next to the memorial, a state-of-the-art museum has high-tech interactive displays covering the history of Bomber Command, including poignant stories from those who witnessed WWII’s bombings first-hand.

Battle of Britain Memorial Flight Visitor Centre (%01522-552222; www.lincolnshire.gov.uk; Dogdyke Rd, Coningsby; museum free, hangar tours adult/child £8.50/4.60; hhangar tours by reservation 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) See Spitfires and the four-engined Lancaster City of Lincoln at the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight Visitor Centre on 90-minute hangar tours. Bus IC5 (£4.60, one hour, hourly Monday to Saturday) runs here from Lincoln.

Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre (%01790-763207; www.lincsaviation.co.uk; East Kirkby, near Spilsby; adult/child £8.50/3; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Mon-Sat Nov-Easter) An original WWII Bomber Command airfield complete with its original wartime control tower is now home to the Lincolnshire Aviation Heritage Centre, with wartime planes and automobiles on display. It’s 30 miles southeast of Lincoln via the A153; there’s no public transport.

8Getting There & Away

Trains connect Boston with Lincoln (£14.40, 1¼ hours, hourly) via a change at Sleaford, and with Nottingham (£18.20, 1½ hours, hourly).

Stamford

%01780 / Pop 19,704

One of England’s prettiest towns, Stamford seems frozen in time, with elegant streets lined with honey-coloured limestone buildings and hidden alleyways dotted with alehouses, interesting restaurants and small independent boutiques. A forest of historic church spires rises overhead and the gently gurgling River Welland meanders through the town centre. It’s a favourite with filmmakers seeking the postcard vision of England, and has appeared in everything from Pride and Prejudice to the Da Vinci Code.

THE HOME OF SIR ISAAC NEWTON

Sir Isaac Newton fans may feel the gravitational pull of the great man’s birthplace, Woolsthorpe Manor (NT; %01476-862823; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Water Lane; house & grounds adult/child £7.70/3.85, grounds only £3.86/2.68; h11am-5pm Wed-Mon mid-Mar–Oct, Fri-Sun Nov–mid-Mar), about 8 miles south of Grantham. The humble 17th-century house contains reconstructions of Newton’s rooms; the apple that inspired his theory of gravity allegedly fell from the tree in the garden. There’s a nifty kids’ science room and a cafe. Take Centrebus 9 from Grantham (£2.80, 20 minutes, four per day Monday to Saturday).

1Sights

oBurghley HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

(www.burghley.co.uk; house & garden adult/child £19/10, garden only £13/9; hhouse 11am-5pm Sat-Thu mid-Mar–Oct, garden 11am-5pm daily mid-Mar–Oct, park 8am-6pm or dusk if earlier daily year-round)

Set in more than 810 hectares of grounds, landscaped by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown, opulent Burghley House (bur-lee) was built by Queen Elizabeth’s chief adviser William Cecil, whose descendants still live here. It bristles with cupolas, pavilions, belvederes and chimneys; the lavish staterooms are a particular highlight. In early September, the renowned Burghley Horse Trials take place here. The estate is 1.3 miles southeast of Stamford; follow the marked path for 15 minutes through the park by Stamford’s train station.

St Mary’s ChurchCHURCH

(www.stamfordbenefice.com; St Mary’s St; h8am-6pm, hours can vary)

An endearingly wonky 13th-century broach spire tops the 12th-century St Mary’s Church. Classical concerts are held here in summer; tickets (from £14) are sold at Stamford’s tourist office.

4Sleeping

William Cecil at StamfordHISTORIC HOTEL££

(%01780-750070; www.hillbrookehotels.co.uk; High St, St Martin’s; s/d/f incl breakfast from £100/110/175; pW)

Within the Burghley Estate, this stunningly renovated hotel has 27 rooms inspired by Burghley House, with period furnishings and luxuries such as Egyptian cotton linens and complimentary organic vodka. Family rooms sleep two adults and two kids; interconnecting rooms are also available. The smart restaurant turns out stylish British classics and opens to a wicker-chair-furnished patio.

oGeorge HotelHISTORIC HOTEL£££

(%01780-750750; www.georgehotelofstamford.com; 71 High St, St Martin’s; s/d/ste/4-poster incl breakfast from £130/215/290/320; pW#)

Stamford’s luxurious landmark inn opened its doors in 1597. Today its 45 individually sized and decorated rooms impeccably blend period charm and modern elegance. Superior Modern British cuisine is served at its oak-panelled restaurant, while its more informal garden-room restaurant hosts afternoon teas in its courtyard. Its two bars include a champagne bar.

6Drinking

Paten & CoPUB

(www.kneadpubs.co.uk; 7 All Saints’ Pl; h11am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; W)

When the current owners stripped back this 18th-century building during renovations, they uncovered Paten & Co wine and spirits merchants’ painted sign and got permission to use the original name. Twists on old-fashioned cocktails (eg raspberry and thyme Collins) are its speciality, along with charcoal-smoked street food. The top floor has breathtaking views of All Saints’ church spires.

All Saints BreweryBREWERY

(www.allsaintsbrewery.co.uk; 22 All Saints’ St; hnoon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; W) S

Victorian-era steam-brewing equipment is used to make organic fruit beers at this operation, which has revived the site’s original 1825 brewery after it was shuttered for several decades. Try its cherry, strawberry, raspberry and apricot brews at the attached pub or in the umbrella-shaded courtyard. Bar staff can advise on informal brewery tours.

Tobie NorrisPUB

(www.kneadpubs.co.uk; 12 St Paul’s St; h10am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, noon-10.30pm Sun)

A wonderful stone-walled, flagstone-floored pub, the Tobie Norris has a warren of rooms with open fireplaces, a sunny, flower-filled courtyard and local ales. Wood-fired pizzas are a highlight of its wide-ranging menu.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01780-755611; www.southwestlincs.com; 27 St Mary’s St; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat; W) Inside the Stamford Arts Centre.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

Centrebus 4 runs to Grantham (£4.60, 1¼ hours, three per day Monday to Saturday) and Centrebus 9 serves Oakham (£3.50, 45 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday).

TRAIN

Trains run to Birmingham (£32.80, 1½ hours, hourly), Nottingham (£25.30, 1¾ hours, hourly) with a change in Leicester (£19.10, 40 minutes), and Stansted Airport (£38.40, 1¾ hours, hourly) via Peterborough (£8.30, 15 minutes).

WORTH A TRIP

ALTHORP HOUSE

The ancestral home of the Spencer family, Althorp House (%01604-770107; www.spencerofalthorp.com; adult/child £18.50/11; hnoon-5pm mid-Jul–early Sep) – pronounced ‘altrup’ – is the final resting place of Diana, Princess of Wales, commemorated by a memorial. The outstanding art collection features works by Rubens, Gainsborough and Van Dyck. Profits go to charities supported by the Princess Diana Memorial Fund.

Althorp is off the A428, 5.5 miles northwest of Northampton, and is not served by public transport; a taxi costs around £20.

LEICESTERSHIRE

Leicestershire was a vital creative hub during the Industrial Revolution, but its factories were a major target for German air raids in WWII and most towns in the county still bear the scars of war-time bombing. Nevertheless, there are some impressive remains, from Elizabethan castles to Roman ruins. The busy, multicultural capital Leicester is enjoying fame arising from the 2012 discovery and 2015 reburial of King Richard III’s remains.

8Getting There & Around

Leicester is well served by buses and trains. For bus routes and timetables, visit the ‘Roads and Transport’ pages at www.leicestershire.gov.uk.

Regular buses connect Rutland to Leicester, Stamford and other surrounding towns.

Leicester

%0116 / Pop 348,300

Built over the buried ruins of two millennia of history, Leicester (les-ter) suffered at the hands of the Luftwaffe and postwar planners but an influx of textile workers from India and Pakistan from the 1960s transformed the city into a bustling multicultural hub.

The astonishing 2012 discovery and 2013 identification of the remains of King Richard III in a Leicester car park sparked a flurry of developments, including a spiffing visitor centre on the site, and the restoration of the cathedral, where the king was reburied in 2015.

Leicester

1Top Sights

1 King Richard III: Dynasty, Death & DiscoveryB3

2Leicester CathedralB2

1Sights

Great Hall(see 4)

3Jewry Wall MuseumA2

4Leicester CastleA3

5MagazineB3

6New Walk Museum & Art GalleryD4

7Newarke Houses MuseumA3

8St Mary de CastroA3

9St Nicholas ChurchA2

4Sleeping

10Belmont HotelD4

11Hotel MaiyangoA2

5Eating

12Boot RoomB3

13Good EarthC2

14WalkersC2

6Drinking & Nightlife

15Bread & HoneyC3

16Gate 38C3

17GlobeB2

3Entertainment

18CookieB2

19Curve TheatreD2

1Sights

oKing Richard III: Dynasty, Death & DiscoveryMUSEUM

(map Google map; www.kriii.com; 4a St Martin’s Pl; adult/child £8.95/4.75; h10am-4pm Sun-Fri, to 5pm Sat)

Built following the incredible 2012 discovery of King Richard III’s remains, Leicester’s high-tech King Richard III visitor centre encompasses three fascinating sections. Dynasty explores his rise to become the final Plantagenet king. Death delves into the Battle of Bosworth, when Richard became the last English king to be killed in battle. Discovery details the University of Leicester’s archaeological dig and identification, and lets you view the site of the grave in which he was found.

Its Murder, Mystery and Mayhem exhibition covers the key players, battles and milestones of the Wars of the Roses between the House of York (symbolised by a white rose) and House of Lancaster (red rose).

oLeicester CathedralCATHEDRAL

(map Google map; %0116-261 5357; www.leicestercathedral.org; Peacock Lane; by donation; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 12.30-2.30pm Sun)

Pride of place at this substantial medieval cathedral goes to the contemporary limestone tomb atop the vault where the remains of King Richard III were reburied in 2015. Look too for the striking carvings on the cathedral’s roof supports.

One-hour guided tours (adult/child £5/free) take place at 11.30am and 2.30pm from Monday to Friday. On Saturday, 30-minute King Richard III tours (adult/child £3/free) depart on the hour from 11am to 4pm.

National Space CentreMUSEUM

(www.spacecentre.co.uk; Exploration Drive; adult/child £14/11; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun)

Although British space missions usually launch from French Guiana or Kazakhstan, Leicester’s space museum is a fascinating introduction to the mysteries of the spheres. The ill-fated 2003 Beagle 2 mission to Mars was controlled from here. Fun, kid-friendly displays cover everything from astronomy to the status of current space missions. It’s 1.5 miles north of the city centre. Take bus 54 or 54A (£1.60, 15 minutes, every 10 minutes Monday to Saturday, every 20 minutes Sunday) from Haymarket bus station (Charles St).

Leicester CastleRUINS

(map Google map; Castle View) Scattered around the Newarke Houses Museum (map Google map; %0116-225 4980; www.leicester.gov.uk/leisure-and-culture; The Newarke; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun) F are the ruins of Leicester’s medieval castle, where Richard III spent his final days before the Battle of Bosworth. The monumental gateway known as the Magazine (map Google map; Newarke St) was once a storehouse for cannonballs and gunpowder. Dating from the 12th century and clad in Georgian brickwork, the Great Hall (www.dmu.ac.uk; Castle Yard) stands behind a 15th-century gate near the church of St Mary de Castro (map Google map; www.stmarydecastro.co.uk; 15 Castle View; hnoon-2pm Mon-Fri, 2-4pm Sat), where Geoffrey Chaucer was married in 1366.

New Walk Museum & Art GalleryMUSEUM, GALLERY

(map Google map; %0116-225 4900; www.leicester.gov.uk/leisure-and-culture; 53 New Walk; h11am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun) F

Highlights of this grand Victorian museum include the dinosaur galleries, the painting collection (with works by Turner and Degas), ceramics by Picasso, and the Egyptian gallery, where real mummies rub shoulders with displays about Boris Karloff’s 1932 film The Mummy.

Jewry Wall MuseumMUSEUM

(map Google map; www.visitleicester.info; St Nicholas Circle; h11am-4.30pm Feb-Oct) F

This museum exploring the history of Leicester from Roman times to the modern day was undergoing renovations at the time of writing, and was expected to reopen to the public in spring 2019. In front of the museum is the Jewry Wall, part of Leicester’s Roman baths. Tiles and masonry from the baths were incorporated in the walls of neighbouring St Nicholas Church (map Google map; www.stnicholasleicester.com; St Nicholas Circle; admission by donation; h2-4pm Sat, 6.30-8.30pm Sun).

WORTH A TRIP

GEORGE WASHINGTON’S ANCESTRAL HOME

Sulgrave Manor (%01295-760205; www.sulgravemanor.org.uk; Manor Rd, Sulgrave; adult/child £7.20/3.60; h11am-5pm Thu, Fri & Sun Apr-Sep) was built by Lawrence Washington in 1539. The Washington family lived here for almost 120 years before Colonel John Washington, the great-grandfather of America’s first president George Washington, sailed to Virginia in 1656.

Sulgrave Manor is 20 miles southwest of Northampton, just off the B4525 near Banbury; you’ll need your own wheels to get here.

2Activities

Great Central RailwayRAIL

(%01509-632323; www.gcrailway.co.uk; return adult/child £17/9)

Steam locomotives chug from Leicester North station on Redhill Circle to Loughborough Central, following the 8-mile route along which Thomas Cook ran the original package tour in 1841. The locos operate most weekends year-round and some summer weekdays; check timetables online.

For Leicester North station, take bus 25 (£1.60, 20 minutes, every 10 minutes) from Haymarket bus station.

4Sleeping

oHotel MaiyangoBOUTIQUE HOTEL££

(map Google map; %0116-251 8898; www.maiyango.com; 13-21 St Nicholas Pl; d/ste from £79/109; aW)

At the end of the pedestrian High St, this sophisticated pad has 14 spacious rooms, decorated with handmade furniture, contemporary art and massive TVs. Superb cocktails are served at its rooftop bar (guests only) with city-skyline views.

Belmont HotelHOTEL££

(map Google map; %0116-254 4773; www.belmonthotel.co.uk; 20 De Montfort St; s/d/f/ste from £62/81/105/139; paiW)

Owned and run by the same family for four generations, the 19th-century Belmont has 74 stylish, contemporary, individually designed rooms and a fantastic location overlooking leafy New Walk. Family rooms have a double bed and bunks. Its restaurant is highly regarded; the two bars, Jamie’s and Bowie’s, open to a terrace and a conservatory respectively.

5Eating

WalkersPIES£

(map Google map; Walker & Son; www.walkerspies.co.uk; 4-6 Cheapside; dishes £1-5; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat)

For a quick lunch, you can’t beat Walkers’ towering pork pies. Walkers was founded in Leicester in 1824; it has since sold its famous crisp brand, but the pies remain a family business today. Other pie varieties include chicken, bacon and mushroom, farmhouse steak, game and pulled pork. There’s a handful of pavement tables out the front.

Bobby’sINDIAN, VEGETARIAN£

(%0116-266 0106; www.eatatbobbys.com; 154-156 Belgrave Rd; dishes £4-8; h11am-10pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; v)

The top pick along Leicester’s Indian restaurant–lined Golden Mile is 1970s-established Bobby’s, serving all-vegetarian classics.

Good EarthVEGETARIAN£

(map Google map; %0116-262 6260; www.facebook.com/veggiegoodearth; 19 Free Lane; mains £3.50-7; hnoon-3pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; v)

This venerable vegetarian cafe has a daily changing menu of wholesome veggie bakes, huge salads and homemade cakes, and hosts occasional evening events such as live-music gigs. Cash only.

Boot RoomBISTRO££

(map Google map; %0116-262 2555; www.thebootroomeaterie.co.uk; 29 Millstone Lane; mains £13.25-25; hnoon-2pm & 6-9.30pm Tue-Sat; W)

A former shoe factory now houses this contemporary independent bistro. Premium ingredients are used in dishes spanning sea bass with fondant potatoes, king prawns, squid and prawn bisque to duck leg with Puy lentils and tamarind sauce. Save room for the soufflé of the day for dessert.

oJohn’s HouseBRITISH£££

(%01509-415569; www.johnshouse.co.uk; Stonehurst Farm, 139-141 Loughborough Rd, Mountsorrel; 2-/3-course lunch menus £26/30, 2-/3-/7-course dinner menus £48/55/124; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat)

Chef John Duffin was born here on 16th-century Stonehurst Farm, 8 miles north of Leicester. After working in Michelin-starred restaurants, he returned in 2014 to open his restaurant, and has since gained a Michelin star of his own. Multicourse menus (no à la carte) showcase his imagination in dishes like creamed Porthilly oysters with smoked Mountsorrel eels and foraged loveage.

Still a working farm today, Stonehurst (www.stonehurstfarm.co.uk) also has a fabulous farm shop, a tearoom, a petting farm and a motor museum housing vintage vehicles.

THE BATTLE OF BOSWORTH

Given a few hundred years, every battlefield ends up simply a field, but the site of the Battle of Bosworth (%01455-290429; www.bosworthbattlefield.org.uk; Ambion Lane, Sutton Cheney; adult/child £8.95/5.75, guided walk £4.50/3; hheritage centre 10am-5pm, last admission 4pm, grounds 7am-dusk) – where Richard III met his maker in 1485 – is enlivened by an entertaining heritage centre full of skeletons and musket balls; guided walks around the site last 90 minutes. Enthusiasts in period costume reenact the battle each August.

Although it lasted just a few hours, the Battle of Bosworth marked the end of the Plantagenet dynasty and the start of the Tudor era. This was where the mortally wounded Richard III famously proclaimed: ‘A horse, a horse, my kingdom for a horse’. (Actually, he didn’t: the quote was invented by that great Tudor propagandist William Shakespeare.)

After visiting the battlefield, head for lunch at the 17th-century coaching inn, Hercules Revived (%01455-699336; www.herculesrevived.co.uk; Sutton Cheney; mains £11.50-20; hkitchen noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm, bar to 11.30pm daily), which serves top-tier gastropub food.

The battlefield is 16 miles southwest of Leicester at Sutton Cheney, off the A447.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Gate 38COCKTAIL BAR

(map Google map; 38b Belvoir St; h9pm-3.30am Fri & Sat; W)

Look for the tiny yellow airport-gate sign on Albion St to find this super-cool speakeasy with aeroplane-cabin seats and plane windows with pictures of Leicester’s lights mimicking flying in at night. Its ‘departure board’ lists destinations for which cocktails are named, eg Kyoto, with sake, tomato juice and smoked pepper, or Buenos Aires, with Pisco, lime, ginger beer and cucumber.

Bread & HoneyCOFFEE

(map Google map; www.breadnhoneycoffee.com; 15 King St; h7.45am-3pm Mon-Fri; W)

Beans from single farm estates and co-ops sourced and roasted by London-based Monmouth are brewed at this little bare-boards hole in the wall; the flat whites are the best for miles around. Steaming soups, preservative-free bread, made-from-scratch hot dishes and fantastic cakes (chocolate fudge cake with white-chocolate icing; honey-glazed banana loaf) are all available, too.

GlobePUB

(map Google map; www.eversosensible.com/globe; 43 Silver St; h11am-11pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat)

In the atmospheric Lanes – a tangle of alleys south of the High St – this old-fashioned pub has fine draught ales and a crowd that rates its drinks by quality rather than quantity.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

HAMMER & PINCERS

For a mind-blowing meal, head to this idyllic gastropub (%01509-880735; www.hammerandpincers.co.uk; 5 East Rd, Wymeswold; mains £19-27.50, 7-/10-course menu £45/60, with wine £75/100; hnoon-2pm & 6-9.30pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun; v) set in bucolic gardens at the edge of the cute village of Wymeswold. Everything is homemade, down to the breads and condiments; seasonal specialities might include cider-cured sea trout, gin-marinated pheasant and rosemary rhubarb sorbet. Don’t miss its signature twice-baked cheese soufflé. It’s 16 miles north of Leicester via the A46.

3Entertainment

CookieLIVE MUSIC

(map Google map; %0116-253 1212; www.thecookieleicester.co.uk; 68 High St; hbar 3-11pm Tue & Wed, from noon Thu, noon-1am Fri & Sat, noon-5pm Sun, concert hours vary)

With a capacity of 350 in its brick cellar, this indie venue is a brilliant place to catch live bands and comedy nights in an intimate setting.

Curve TheatreTHEATRE

(map Google map; %0116-242 3595; www.curveonline.co.uk; 60 Rutland St; backstage tours adult/child £5/4)

This sleek artistic space hosts big-name shows and some innovative modern theatre, and has good accessibility for theatregoers who are aurally or visually impaired. Call the ticket office to book backstage tours.

De Montfort HallLIVE MUSIC

(%0116-233 3111; www.demontforthall.co.uk; Granville Rd)

Orchestras, ballets, musicals and other big song-and-dance performances are on the bill at this huge venue.

8Information

Tourist Office (%0116-299 4444; www.visitleicester.info; 51 Gallowtree Gate; h10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, from 9.30am Sat, 11am-4pm Sun) Helpful office with reams of city and county info.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

Intercity buses operate from St Margaret’s bus station (Gravel St), north of the city centre. The useful Skylink bus runs to East Midlands Airport (£7.30, one hour, at least hourly, 24 hours) and continues on to Derby.

National Express services:

Coventry £5.50, 45 minutes, three daily

London Victoria £11.60, 2¾ hours, hourly

Nottingham £4.60, 45 minutes, up to two per hour

TRAIN

East Midlands trains:

Birmingham £19.20, one hour, up to two per hour

London St Pancras £86.50, 1¼ hours, up to four per hour

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

STOKE BRUERNE & THE GRAND UNION CANAL

Brightly painted barges frequent this charming little village 8.2 miles south of Northampton on the Grand Union Canal, the main thoroughfare of England’s canal network. From here, you can follow the waterways all the way to Leicester, Birmingham or London.

A converted corn mill houses the entertaining Canal Museum (www.canalrivertrust.org.uk/thecanalmuseum; 3 Bridge Rd; adult/child £4.75/3.10; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Mar), which charts the history of the canal network and its bargemen, lock-keepers and pit workers. Scale models abound; outside you can see the historic narrowboat Sculptor, listed on the National Historic Boat Register.

The Boat Inn (%01604-862428; www.boatinn.co.uk; mains restaurant £15-25, bistro £7-13; hrestaurant noon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun, bar 9am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun) is a canalside landmark; with picnic tables on the quay, this sociable local pub has a relaxed bistro serving pub classics until 9pm, a more formal restaurant with refined dishes such as steaks, and a great range of ales.

Rutland

Tiny Rutland was merged with Leicestershire in 1974, but in 1997 regained its ‘independence’ as England’s smallest county.

Rutland centres on Rutland Water, a vast artificial reservoir created by the damming of the Gwash Valley in 1976. Covering 4.19 sq miles, the reservoir attracts some 20,000 birds, including ospreys.

1Sights & Activities

Rutland Water Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE

(www.rutlandwater.org.uk; Egleton; adult/child incl parking £6/3.50, binocular hire per day £5; h9am-5pm Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)

Near Oakham, the Rutland Water Nature Reserve has 31 hides throughout the reserve and a viewing section upstairs in the Anglian Water Birdwatching Centre, which has an exhibition on the area’s abundant birdlife, including ospreys, long-tailed tits, lesser whitethroats, bullfinches, garden warblers and jays. Look out too for water voles, which thrive here. The reserve’s Lyndon Visitor Centre (%01572-737378; www.rutlandwater.org.uk; Manton; adult/child incl parking £6/3.50; h9am-5pm mid-Mar–early Sep), for which tickets are valid, opens during the warmer months.

Rutland WatersportsWATER SPORTS

(%01780-460154; www.anglianwater.co.uk; Whitwell Leisure Park, Bull Brigg Lane, Whitwell; windsurf/kayak/SUP rental per hr from £20/8.50/10; h9am-7pm Fri-Tue, to 8pm Wed & Thu Apr-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Mar)

Aquatic activities offered by Rutland Watersports include windsurfing, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding (SUP). You can hire gear or take lessons.

Rutland BelleCRUISE

(%01572-787630; www.rutlandwatercruises.com; Whitwell; adult/child £9.50/6.50; hhourly noon-3pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun mid-Jul–Aug, shorter hours Apr–mid-Jul, Sep & Oct)

Take a 45-minute round-trip cruise from Whitwell to Normanton on the southern shore of the Rutland reservoir. On some afternoons, it also runs later birdwatching cruises lasting 90 minutes (adult/child £22/13).

4Sleeping & Eating

Hambleton HallHISTORIC HOTEL£££

(%01572-756991; www.hambletonhall.com; Hambleton; s/d/ste incl breakfast from £225/310/625; pWs#)

One of England’s finest country hotels, rambling former hunting lodge Hambleton Hall, built in 1881, sits on a peninsula jutting out into Rutland Water, 3 miles east of Oakham. Its luxuriant floral rooms and Michelin-starred restaurant (two-course lunch menu £31.50, three-/four-course dinner menus £75/95) are surrounded by gorgeous gardens, which also shelter an outdoor heated swimming pool (May to September).

Otters Fine FoodsDELI, CAFE£

(%01572-756481; www.ottersfinefoods.co.uk; 19 Mill St, Oakham; dishes £5-8.50; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

A storybook-pretty whitewashed cottage with a thatched roof houses this Oakham deli. Pick up sandwiches, quiches, soups, salads, cheeses, meats, charcuterie and more for a lakeside picnic, or preorder a hamper. If it’s not picnic weather, dine at its in-store cafe.

Mill Street Pub & KitchenGASTROPUB££

(%01572-729600; www.millstreetoakham.com; 6 Mill St, Oakham; mains £12.50-26.50; hkitchen 7.30am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 9.45pm Fri & Sat, to 8pm Sun, bar 7.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; Wvc)

On Oakham’s main shopping street, this handsome pub’s dining spaces span a vaulted brick cellar, a glass conservatory and a sun-drenched terrace. Menu highlights include ham-hock and tarragon terrine with house-made piccalilli and toasted sourdough; there are vegan and kids’ menus, and ales from Oakham’s Grainstone brewery. Upstairs, seven contemporary rooms (doubles including breakfast from £90) are painted in beautiful countryside hues.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 9 links Oakham with Stamford (£3.50, 45 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday) via Rutland Water’s north shore.

Trains link Oakham with Leicester (£15.70, 30 minutes, hourly).

DERBYSHIRE

The Derbyshire countryside is painted in two distinct tones: the lush green of rolling valleys criss-crossed by dry-stone walls, and the barren mottled-brown hilltops of the high, wild moorlands. The biggest draw here is the Peak District National Park, which preserves some of England’s most evocative scenery, attracting legions of hikers, climbers, cyclists and cave enthusiasts.

8Getting There & Away

East Midlands Airport is the nearest air hub, and Derby is well served by trains, but connecting services to smaller towns are few. In the Peak District, the Derwent Valley Line runs from Derby to Matlock. Edale and Hope lie on the Hope Valley Line from Sheffield to Manchester.

For a comprehensive list of Derbyshire bus routes, visit the ‘Transport and Roads’ pages at www.derbyshire.gov.uk.

Derby

%01332 / Pop 248,752

Gloriously sited at the southeastern edge of the Derbyshire hills that roll towards the Peak District, Derby is one of the Midlands’ most energetic, creative cities. This was one of the crucibles of the Industrial Revolution: almost overnight, a sleepy market town was transformed into a major manufacturing centre, producing everything from silk to bone china and, later, locomotives and Rolls-Royce aircraft engines. The city suffered the ravages of industrial decline in the 1980s, but bounced back with impressive cultural developments and a rejuvenated riverfront.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

CONKERS & THE NATIONAL FOREST

The National Forest (www.nationalforest.org) is an ambitious project to generate new areas of sustainable woodland by planting 30 million trees in Leicestershire, Derbyshire and Staffordshire, covering a total area of 51,800 hectares or 200 sq miles. More than 8.5 million saplings have already taken root. Visitor attractions here include the kid-friendly nature centre, Conkers (%01283-216633; www.visitconkers.com; Rawdon Rd, Moira; adult/child £9.05/8.14; h10am-6pm Easter-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Easter). There are also several bike trails; bikes can be hired from Hicks Lodge (%01530-274533; Willesley Wood Side, Moira; bike hire per 3hr/day adult/child £16/30; htrails 8am-dusk, bike hire & cafe 9am-5pm Fri-Wed, to 9pm Thu mid-Feb–Oct, 10am-4pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9am-9pm Thu, to 5pm Sat & Sun Nov–mid-Feb).

If you fancy overnighting, the National Forest YHA (%0845 371 9672; www.yha.org.uk; 48 Bath Lane, Moira; dm/d/f from £13/50/70; pW) S has impressive eco features (such as rainwater harvesting and solar biomass boiler usage), 23 spotless en-suite rooms, bike storage, and a restaurant serving local produce and organic wines. It’s 300m west of Conkers along Bath Lane.

1Sights

Royal Crown Derby FactoryMUSEUM, FACTORY

(%01332-712800; www.royalcrownderby.co.uk; Osmaston Rd; museum & factory tour adult/child £5/2.50, museum only £2/1; hmuseum 10am-4pm Mon-Sat, factory tours 11am & 1.30pm Mon-Thu, 11am Fri)

Derby’s historic potteries still turn out some of the finest bone china in England, from edgy Asian-inspired designs to the kind of stuff your grandma collects. Reservations are essential for factory tours, which last 90 minutes and include a visit to the museum. Royal Crown Derby’s china (including seconds and discontinued items) is sold at its on-site shop, and is used as tableware at its elegant tearoom.

Derby CathedralCATHEDRAL

(%01332-341201; www.derbycathedral.org; 18 Irongate; cathedral by donation, tower tours adult/child £5/4; hcathedral 8.30am-5.30pm, tower tours vary)

Founded in AD 943 and reconstructed in the 18th century, Derby Cathedral’s vaulted ceiling towers above a fine collection of medieval tombs, including the opulent grave of the oft-married Bess of Hardwick, who at various times held court at Hardwick Hall, Chatsworth House and Bolsover Castle. Check the website for dates when historians lead tours up 189 steps into the Tudor tower, the second-highest bell tower in the UK.

Peregrine falcons nest in the tower; follow their progress at www.derbyperegrines.blogspot.com.

Derby Museum & Art GalleryMUSEUM

(www.derbymuseums.org; The Strand; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-4pm Sun) F

Local history and industry displays include fine ceramics produced by Royal Crown Derby and an archaeology gallery, along with paintings by renowned artist Joseph Wright of Derby (1734–97).

QuadGALLERY, CINEMA

(%01332-290606; www.derbyquad.co.uk; Market Pl; gallery free, cinema tickets adult/child £9/7; hgallery 11am-5pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun)

A striking modernist cube on Market Pl, Quad contains a futuristic art gallery and an art-house cinema.

4Sleeping

Coach HouseB&B£

(%01332-554423; www.coachhousederby.com; 185a Duffield Rd; s/d from £47/60; pW#)

Surrounded by a rambling cottage garden, this red-brick 1860-built property 1.7 miles north of Derby has four countrified rooms with richly patterned wallpapers in the main house, and three contemporary loft-style rooms in the superbly converted stables. Personalised touches include free homemade brownies. Vegan and gluten-free breakfasts are possible (reserve ahead). Off-street parking is first come, first served.

Farmhouse at MackworthINN££

(%01332-824324; www.thwfarmhouseatmackworth.com; 60 Ashbourne Rd; d/f incl breakfast from £85/110; pW)

The Farmhouse at Mackworth is just 2.5 miles northwest of Derby in undulating countryside, with the bonus of plentiful free parking. The designer inn’s 10 boutique rooms have checked fabrics, rustic timber cladding and chrome fittings, plus amenities including Nespresso machines and fluffy robes. There’s a fabulous bar and a restaurant with a Josper charcoal oven.

Cathedral Quarter HotelHOTEL££

(%01332-546080; www.cathedralquarterhotel.com; 16 St Mary’s Gate; d/ste incl breakfast from £95/145; aW)

A bell’s peal from the cathedral, this grand Georgian edifice houses a 38-room hotel. The service is as polished as the grand marble staircase, and there’s an on-site spa and a fine-dining restaurant.

oThe CowINN£££

(%01332-824297; www.cowdalbury.com; The Green, Dalbury Lees; d incl breakfast from £145; pW#)

Stunningly restored in 2017, this whitewashed 19th-century inn 6.5 miles west of Derby has solid oak floors, stone walls and timber-lined ceilings. Its 12 individually styled rooms range from Victorian and art deco to retro vintage, and feature locally handcrafted mattresses and Egyptian cotton sheets. The bar-restaurant’s stools are fashioned from milk cans and food is sourced within a 30-mile radius.

5Eating

Jack RabbitsCAFE£

(%01332-206322; www.jackrabbitskitchen.com; 53-55 Queen St; dishes £4.85-9; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; vc)

Jack Rabbits’ sunlit cafe is perfect for lazy grazing on internationally inspired dishes, from breakfast (Mexican huevos rancheros, French/American hybrid croque monsieur Benedict) through to lunch (Swedish potato pancake with a poached egg, pickled cucumber and sour cream). Breads, cakes and slices are baked in-house; coffee is from Nottingham roastery Outpost. ‘Little bunnies’ has a top-quality kids’ menu.

Wonky TableBISTRO££

(%01332-295000; www.wonkytable.co.uk; 32 Sadler Gate; mains lunch £8-10, dinner £13-19; h5-10pm Mon, noon-3pm & 5-10pm Tue-Fri, noon-3.30pm & 5-10pm Sat; v)

Inside an inviting retro-vintage dining room with exposed-brick walls, Wonky Table features a slimmed-down daytime menu alongside salads and sandwiches, but it really comes into its own at dinner with dishes such as apricot-stuffed slow-roasted pork loin. Vegetarian options abound.

DarleysMODERN BRITISH£££

(%01332-364987; www.darleys.com; Waterfront, Darley Abbey Mill; mains £23-26.30, 2-/3-course lunch menus £20/25; hnoon-2pm & 7-8.30pm Tue-Thu, noon-2pm & 7-9pm Fri & Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun; v)

Two miles north of the city centre, this upmarket restaurant has a gorgeous setting in a bright converted mill overlooking the river, with a beautiful waterside terrace. It serves classy fare such as sea trout with cockle cream, curry oil and a samphire pakora. Vegetarian and vegan menus are available at all times.

DON’T MISS

KEDLESTON HALL

Sitting pretty in vast landscaped grounds, neoclassical Kedleston Hall (NT; %01332-842191; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Kedleston Rd, Quarndon; house & gardens adult/child £13.60/6.80, garden only £6.80/3.40; hhouse noon-5pm Sat-Thu Feb-Oct, garden 10am-6pm Feb-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Jan) is a must for fans of stately homes. Entering the house through a grand portico, you’ll reach the breathtaking Marble Hall with massive alabaster columns and statues of Greek deities.

The Curzon family has lived here since the 12th century, but the current wonder was built by Sir Nathaniel Curzon in 1758. Meanwhile, the poor old peasants in Kedleston village had their humble dwellings moved a mile down the road, as they interfered with the view. Ah, the good old days…

Highlights include Indian treasures amassed by Viceroy George Curzon and a domed, circular saloon modelled on the Pantheon in Rome, as well as 18th-century-style pleasure gardens.

Kedleston Hall is 5 miles northwest of Derby, off the A52. Bus 114 between Derby and Ashbourne (£3.60, 25 minutes, up to six daily Monday to Saturday) stops at the gates when the hall is open.

6Drinking & Nightlife

oOld Bell HotelPUB

(www.bellhotelderby.co.uk; 51 Sadler Gate; h11.30am-11.30pm Sun-Thu, to 1.30am Fri & Sat)

Dating from 1650 and hosting Bonnie Prince Charlie’s soldiers in 1745, this history-steeped black-and-white inn was valiantly restored by local entrepreneur Paul Hurst in 2013, retaining original features, antiques and photographs. There’s a central courtyard and, allegedly, several ghosts. Real-ale tasting flights, snacks and lunches are served in its Tavern and Tudor bars; the Belfry Bar has an upmarket steakhouse.

The TapPUB

(www.brewerytap-dbc.co.uk; 1 Derwent St; hnoon-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 11am-1am Sat, 11am-11pm Sun)

The Tap serves its own brews, guest ales and over 80 craft beers from around the world in elegant Victorian surrounds.

7Shopping

BennettsDEPARTMENT STORE

(www.facebook.com/bennettsirongate; 8 Irongate; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)

Founded as an ironmongers in 1734 and still retaining an ironmongery today, Derby’s historic department store has evolved over the centuries to sell beautiful clothes, homewares, gifts and more.

On the 1st-floor interior balcony, Lisa Jean at Bennetts Brasserie (%01332-344621; www.lisajean-bennetts.co.uk; mains £10-13, champagne breakfast £25; h9am-3.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) specialises in champagne breakfasts.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01332-643411; www.visitderby.co.uk; Market Pl; h9.30am-8pm Mon-Sat) Under the Assembly Rooms in the main square.

8Getting There & Away

AIR

East Midlands Airport (EMA; %0808 169 7032; www.eastmidlandsairport.com), 11.5 miles southeast of Derby, is served by regular Skylink buses (£4.70, 40 minutes, at least hourly). Buses operate 24 hours.

BUS

Local and long-distance buses run from Derby’s bus station, immediately east of the Westfield shopping mall. High Peak has hourly buses between Derby and Buxton (£8, 1¾ hours), via Matlock (£4.50, 45 minutes) and Bakewell (£6.50, 1¼ hours). One bus continues to Manchester (£8, 2¼ hours).

Other services:

Leicester Skylink; £7.30, 1¾ hours, one to two hourly

Nottingham Red Arrow; £5.20, 35 minutes, every 10 minutes Monday to Saturday, three per hour Sunday

TRAIN

The train station is about half a mile southeast of the city centre on Railway Tce.

Birmingham £19.30, 40 minutes, four hourly

Leeds £35.40, 1½ hours, two hourly

London St Pancras £65.50, 1¾ hours, up to two hourly

Ashbourne

%01335 / Pop 8377

Perched at the southern edge of the Peak District National Park, Ashbourne is a pretty patchwork of steeply slanting stone streets lined with cafes, pubs and antique shops.

2Activities

Ashbourne Cycle Hire CentreCYCLING

(%01335-343156; www.peakdistrict.org; Mapleton Rd; per half-day/day standard bike from £14/17, electric bike £23/27; h9.30am-5.30pm Mar-Oct, shorter hours Nov-Feb)

Situated 1km northwest of town, the Cycle Hire Centre is right on the Tissington Trail, at the end of a huge and atmospheric old railway tunnel leading under Ashbourne. Helmets, puncture repair kits and maps are included. You can also rent mountain bikes as well as children’s bikes, bikes with baby seats, trailers for buggies and tandems.

4Sleeping & Eating

Compton HouseB&B££

(%01335-343100; www.comptonhouse.co.uk; 27-31 Compton St; s/d from £55/75; pW)

Fresh, clean, frilly rooms, a warm welcome and a central location make this the pick of Ashbourne’s B&Bs. There’s a minimum two-night stay on weekends.

Flower CafeCAFE£

(www.theflowercafe.co.uk; 5 Market Pl; mains £5-12.50; h8.30am-5pm Sun-Fri, to 8pm Sat; v)

Soups such as parsnip, chorizo and chestnut, broccoli and Stilton, and spicy bean and lentil are a year-round speciality at this cute-as-a-button cafe where everything is homemade. In summer it also cooks delicious quiches (cheesy leek and mushroom; bacon, brie and cranberry…). Gluten-free and dairy-free dishes are plentiful.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01335-343666; www.ashbournetowncouncil.gov.uk; Market Pl; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Jun-Oct, shorter hours Nov-May) Inside the town hall.

8Getting There & Away

Bus services include the following:

Buxton High Peak routes 441 and 442; £4.50, 1¼ hours, 10 daily Monday to Friday, eight Saturday, five Sunday

Derby Trent Barton Swift; £4.30, 40 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday, five Sunday

Matlock Bath

%01629 / Pop 753

Matlock Bath (not to be confused with the larger, workaday town of Matlock, 2 miles north) looks like a British seaside resort that somehow lost its way and ended up at the foot of the Peak District National Park. Following the River Derwent through a sheer-walled gorge, the main promenade is lined with amusement arcades, tearooms, fish-and-chip shops, pubs and shops catering to the motorcyclists who congregate here on summer weekends. Outside summer, the town is considerably quieter.

1Sights

Peak District Lead Mining MuseumMUSEUM

(%01629-583834; www.peakdistrictleadminingmuseum.co.uk; The Grand Pavilion, South Pde; museum adult/child £4/3, mine £4.50/3.50, combined ticket £7/5; h10am-5pm Apr-Apr, 11am-4pm Sep & Oct, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

An educational introduction to the mining history of Matlock is provided by this enthusiast-run museum set in an old Victorian dance hall. Kids can wriggle through its maze of tunnels and shafts while adults browse historical displays. At 1pm daily from April to October (at weekends only from November to March) you can go into the workings of the Temple Mine and pan for ‘gold’ (well, shiny minerals). Reservations for mine tours are recommended.

Cromford MillMUSEUM

(%01629-823256; www.cromfordmills.org.uk; Mill Lane, Cromford; audio guide or guided tour adult/child £5/free; h9am-5pm, guided tours by reservation 11am Fri)

Founded in the 1770s by Richard Arkwright, the Cromford Mill was the first modern factory, producing cotton on automated machines powered by a series of waterwheels along the River Derwent. This prototype inspired a succession of mills, ushering in the industrial age. In addition to 90-minute audio-guide tours, there are weekly one-hour guided tours. It’s 1 mile south of Matlock Bath (a 20-minute walk), or you can take the train one stop to Cromford (£2.50, five minutes, hourly).

Caudwell’s MillMUSEUM

(%01629-734374; www.caudwellsmill.co.uk; Rowsley; mill tours adult/child £4.50/2; hmill tours 9.30am-4.15pm, shop 9am-5pm) F

This chugging, grinding, water-powered mill still produces flour the old-fashioned way – 20 different types are for sale, along with six different oat products, and yeast and biscuits. The mill has various craft workshops and a tearoom. You can get to Rowsley direct from Matlock Bath by bus (£3.40, 20 minutes, hourly) on the route to Bakewell, or take the Peak Rail steam train and follow the riverside path from the station.

Masson MillsMUSEUM

(%01629-581001; www.massonmills.co.uk; Derby Rd; adult/child £3/2; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun, closed Dec)

A museum tells the story of the valley’s textile mills at this large complex 1 mile south of Matlock Bath. The attached shopping village is full of outlet stores for big clothing brands.

2Activities

Peak RailRAIL

(%01629-580381; www.peakrail.co.uk; Station Yard, Matlock; adult/child return £9.50/4.50, one-way £5/2.75; hMar-Nov, hours vary)

From a tiny platform by Sainsbury’s supermarket on the outskirts of the town of Matlock (not Matlock Bath), nostalgic steam trains trundle along a 4-mile length of track to the nearby village of Rowsley, home to Caudwell’s Mill.

Heights of AbrahamAMUSEMENT PARK

(%01629-582365; www.heightsofabraham.com; Dale Rd; adult/child £17/11.50; h10am-4.30pm daily mid-Mar–early Nov)

A spectacular cable-car ride (accessible with admission ticket only) from the bottom of the gorge brings you to this hilltop leisure park – its cave and mine tours and fossil exhibitions are a winner with kids. The cave is a constant 10ºC, so bring a jacket.

4Sleeping

Grouse & ClaretINN££

(%01629-733233; www.grouseclaretpub.co.uk; Station Rd, Rowsley; d incl breakfast from £90; pW)

In the village of Rowsley, 6.2 miles northwest of Matlock Bath, this 18th-century stone inn has eight comfy, country-style wallpapered rooms, a restaurant specialising in spit-roasted chicken, and a huge, sunny beer garden with umbrella-shaded tables.

Hodgkinson’s Hotel & RestaurantHOTEL££

(%01629-582170; www.hodgkinsons-hotel.co.uk; 150 South Pde; s/d/f incl breakfast from £60/110/155; pW)

The eight rooms at this central Grade II–listed Victorian beauty conjure up Matlock’s golden age with antique furnishings, cast-iron fireplaces, flowery wallpaper, handmade soaps and goose-down duvets. The restaurant (open Monday to Saturday evenings; two-/three-course menus £27/30) has just 18 seats, so bookings are advised. From April to September, there’s a minimum two-night stay on weekends.

7Shopping

Scarthin BooksBOOKS

(www.scarthinbooks.com; The Promenade, Cromford; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun)

More than 100,000 new and secondhand books cram 12 rooms in this biblio-paradise, which hosts regular literary events and has a vegetarian cafe (dishes £3.50 to £6.50) serving organic pizza, soups, wraps, pies and burritos.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01629-583834; www.visitpeakdistrict.com; The Grand Pavilion, South Pde; h10am-5pm Apr-Aug, 11am-4pm Sep & Oct, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar) At the Peak District Lead Mining Museum.

8Getting There & Away

Matlock is a hub for buses around the Peak District.

Bakewell High Peak; £3.80, 35 minutes, hourly

Derby High Peak; £4.60, 40 minutes, hourly

Trains run hourly between Matlock Bath and Derby (£6.30, 35 minutes, hourly).

Chesterfield

%01246 / Pop 103,800

The eastern gateway to the Peaks, Chesterfield is a busy service centre that’s famed for the twisted spire atop its church.

Nearby is the magnificent Elizabethan mansion Hardwick Hall.

1Sights

Hardwick HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(NT; %01246-850430; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; Doe Lea; house & garden adult/child £13.95/7, garden only £7/3.54, incl Hardwick Old Hall £20.75/11.10; hhouse 11am-5pm Wed-Sun mid-Feb–Oct, to 3pm Wed-Sun Nov–mid-Feb, garden 10am-6pm daily year-round)

One of the most complete Elizabethan mansions in the country, Hardwick Hall was designed by eminent architect Robert Smythson. The hall featured all the latest mod-cons of the time, including fully glazed windows. The atmospheric interiors are decked out with magnificent tapestries and oil paintings of forgotten dignitaries.

Hardwick Hall is 10 miles southeast of Chesterfield, just off the M1; it’s best reached by your own wheels.

The hall was home to the 16th-century’s second-most powerful woman, Elizabeth, Countess of Shrewsbury (known to all as Bess of Hardwick), who amassed a staggering fortune by marrying wealthy noblemen with one foot in the grave. Hardwick Hall was constructed using her inheritance from husband number four, who shuffled off this mortal coil in 1590.

Set aside time to explore the formal gardens or the longer walking trails of Hardwick Park.

Next door to the manor are the ruins of Bess’ first house, Hardwick Old Hall (EH; www.english-heritage.org.uk; Doe Lea; adult/child £7.50/4.60, incl Hardwick Hall £20.75/11.10; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun Easter-Sep, to 5pm Oct, shorter hours Nov-Easter).

St Mary & All Saints ChurchCHURCH

(%01246-206860; www.crookedspire.org; Church Way; spire tours adult/child £6/4; hchurch 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 8am-6.30pm Sun, spire tours Mon-Sat) F

Chesterfield is worth a visit to see the astonishing crooked spire that rises atop St Mary and All Saints Church. Dating from 1360, the 68m-high spire is twisted in a right-handed corkscrew that leans several metres southwest. It’s the result of the lead casing on the south-facing side having buckled in the sun. Spire tours lasting 45 minutes take you up into the tower. Tour times are posted inside the front door from Monday to Saturday, or phone ahead to check.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01246-345777; www.visitchesterfield.info; Rykneld Sq; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) Directly opposite St Mary and All Saints Church.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

From Chesterfield coach station on Beetwell St, bus 170 serves Bakewell (£3.60, 45 minutes, hourly).

TRAIN

Chesterfield lies on the main rail line between Nottingham (£13.20, 45 minutes, up to three hourly) and Derby (£11.70, 20 minutes, up to three hourly), which continues to Sheffield (£5.50, 15 minutes). The station is just east of the centre.

PEAK DISTRICT

Rolling across the Pennines’ southernmost hills is the glorious Peak District National Park. Ancient stone villages are folded into creases in the landscape, and the hillsides are littered with stately homes and rocky outcrops. The Dark Peak is dominated by exposed moorland and gritstone ‘edges’, while to the south, the White Peak is made up of the limestone dales.

No one knows how the Peak District got its name – certainly not from the landscape, which has hills and valleys, gorges and lakes, wild moorland and gritstone escarpments, but no peaks. The most popular theory is that the region was named for the Pecsaetan, the Anglo-Saxon tribe who once populated this part of England.

Founded in 1951, the Peak District was England’s first national park and is Europe’s busiest. But even at peak times, there are 555 sq miles of open English countryside in which to find solitude.

2Activities

Walking

The Peak District is one of the most popular walking areas in England, with awe-inspiring vistas of hills, dales and sky that attract legions of hikers in summer. The White Peak is perfect for leisurely strolls, which can start from pretty much anywhere. Be sure to close gates behind you as you go. When exploring the rugged territory of the Dark Peak, make sure your boots are waterproof and beware of slipping into rivulets and marshes.

The Peak’s most famous walking trail is the Pennine Way, which runs north from Edale for 268 miles, finishing in the Scottish Borders. If you don’t have three weeks to spare, you can reach the pretty town of Hebden Bridge in Yorkshire comfortably in three days.

The 46-mile Limestone Way winds through the Derbyshire countryside from Castleton to Rocester in Staffordshire, following footpaths, tracks and quiet lanes. Many people walk the 26-mile section between Castleton and Matlock in one long, tiring day, but two days is better. Tourist offices have a detailed leaflet.

Other popular routes include the High Peak Trail, the Tissington Trail and the Monsal Trail & Tunnels. Numerous short walks are available.

PEAK DISTRICT TRANSPORT PASSES

Handy bus passes cover travel in the Peak District.

The Peaks Plus ticket (adult/child £7.50/5) offers all-day travel on High Peak buses, including the Transpeak between Ashbourne, Matlock Bath and Buxton. The Peaks Plus Xtra ticket (£12.50/8) includes all transport on Transpeak and TM buses between Derby, Sheffield and Buxton.

The Derbyshire Wayfarer ticket (adult/child £12.40/6.20) covers buses and trains throughout the county and as far afield as Sheffield.

The Greater Manchester Wayfarer ticket (adult/child £12/6) covers trains and buses in the Peak District, along with Greater Manchester and parts of Cheshire and Staffordshire.

Cycling

Plunging dales and soaring scarps provide a perfect testing ground for cyclists, and local tourist offices are piled high with cycling maps and trail guides. For easy traffic-free riding, head for the 17-mile High Peak Trail, which follows the old railway line from Cromford, near Matlock Bath, to Dowlow near Buxton. The trail winds through beautiful hills and farmland to Parsley Hay, where the Tissington Trail, part of NCN Route 68, heads south for 13 miles to Ashbourne. Trails are off-road on dedicated cycle paths, suitable for road bikes.

Mirroring the Pennine Way, the Pennine Bridleway is another top spot to put your calves through their paces. Around 120 miles of trails have been created between Middleton Top and the South Pennines, and the route is suitable for horse riders, cyclists and walkers. You could also follow the Pennine Cycleway (NCN Route 68) from Derby to Buxton and beyond. Other popular routes include the Limestone Way, running south from Castleton to Staffordshire, and the Monsal Trail & Tunnels between Bakewall and Wyedale, near Buxton.

The Peak District National Park Authority (%01629-816200; www.peakdistrict.gov.uk) operates cycle-hire centres at Ashbourne, Derwent Reservoirs and Parsley Hay (%01298-84493; www.peakdistrict.gov.uk; per half-/full day standard bike £14/17, electric bike £23/27; h9.30am-5pm mid-Feb–early Nov). You can hire a bike from one location and drop it off at another for no extra charge.

Peak Tours (%01457-851462; www.peak-tours.com; self-guided tour per 2 nights from £140) delivers bikes throughout the Peak District for seven different self-guided cycling tours.

Caving & Climbing

The limestone sections of the Peak District are riddled with caves and caverns, including a series of ‘showcaves’ in Castleton, Buxton and Matlock Bath. The website www.peakdistrictcaving.info, run by the Derbyshire Caving Association, has comprehensive information. Peaks and Paddles (%07896 912871; www.peaksandpaddles.org; canoeing & caving from £55, abseiling from £25; hby reservation) runs caving trips, along with canoeing and abseiling expeditions.

England’s top mountaineers train in this area, which offers rigorous technical climbing on a series of limestone gorges, exposed tors (crags) and gritstone ‘edges’ that extend south into the Staffordshire Moorlands. Gritstone climbing in the Peak District is predominantly on old-school trad routes, requiring a decent rack of friends, nuts and hexes. Bolted sport routes are found on several limestone crags in the Peak District, but many use ancient pieces of gear and most require additional protection. Contact the British Mountaineering Council (www.thebmc.co.uk) for advice and details of local resources.

8Getting There & Away

Buses run from regional centres such as Sheffield and Derby to destinations across the Peak District. Be aware that buses are much more frequent at weekends, and many services close down completely in winter. Bakewell and Matlock (not Matlock Bath) are the two main hubs – from these you can get anywhere in the Peak District. Timetables are available from all tourist offices as well as Traveline. Trains run to Matlock Bath, Buxton, Edale and several other towns and villages.

Buxton

%01298 / Pop 22,115

The ‘capital’ of the Peak District National Park, albeit just outside the park boundary, Buxton is a confection of Georgian terraces, Victorian amusements and parks in the rolling hills of the Derbyshire dales. The town built its fortunes on its natural warm-water springs, which attracted health tourists in Buxton’s turn-of-the-century heyday.

Today, visitors are drawn here by the flamboyant Regency architecture and the natural wonders of the surrounding countryside. Tuesdays and Saturdays are market days, bringing colour to the grey limestone marketplace.

Buxton

1Top Sights

1 Pavilion GardensA2

1Sights

2Buxton Crescent & Thermal SpaC2

3Buxton Museum & Art GalleryC3

4Devonshire DomeB1

2Activities, Courses & Tours

5Buxton TramB2

Devonshire Spa(see 4)

4Sleeping

5Eating

10Columbine RestaurantC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

11Old Sun InnB4

3Entertainment

12Opera HouseB2

7Shopping

13Scrivener’s Books & BookbindingB4

1Sights & Activities

oPavilion GardensGARDENS

(map Google map; www.paviliongardens.co.uk; h10am-5pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, from 10.30am Sat & Sun Apr-Jun, 10.30am-5pm Sep, to 4pm Oct & Nov, 11am-4pm Dec, Feb & Mar) F

Adjoining Buxton’s opulent opera house are the equally flamboyant Pavilion Gardens. These 9.3 hectares are dotted with domed pavilions; concerts take place in the bandstand throughout the year. The main building contains a tropical greenhouse, an arts and crafts gallery, a nostalgic cafe and the tourist office.

Poole’s CavernCAVE

(%01298-26978; www.poolescavern.co.uk; Green Lane; adult/child £9.95/5.50; h9.30am-5pm, tours every 20min Mar-Oct; 10am-4pm, tours 10.30am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm Mon-Fri, every 20min Sat & Sun Nov-Feb)

A pleasant mile-long stroll southwest from the town centre brings you to Poole’s Cavern. This magnificent natural limestone cavern is reached by descending 28 steps; the temperature is a cool 7°C. Tours last 50 minutes.

From the cavern’s car park, a 20-minute walk leads up through Grin Low Wood to Solomon’s Temple, a ruined tower with fine views over the town. Built in 1896 to replace an earlier structure, it sits atop a burial mound where Bronze Age skeletons were discovered.

Buxton Crescent & Thermal SpaHISTORIC BUILDING

(map Google map; https://buxtoncrescent.com; The Crescent)

In Victorian times, spa activities centred on Buxton’s extravagant baths, built in Regency style in 1854 and fronted by the Crescent, a grand, curving facade inspired by the Royal Crescent in Bath. The complex was due to reopen in 2019 following extensive works. Alongside a five-star hotel and spa, its pump room, which dispensed the town’s spring water for nearly a century, will be the centrepiece of a new visitor attraction, the Pump Room and Crescent Heritage Experience, covering Buxton’s spa-town heritage.

Buxton Museum & Art GalleryMUSEUM, GALLERY

(map Google map; www.derbyshire.gov.uk/leisure/buxton_museum; Terrace Rd; h10am-5pm Tue-Sat year-round, plus noon-4pm Sun Easter-Sep) F

In a handsome Victorian building, the town museum has records of fossils found in the Peak District, photographs, fine arts, bric-a-brac covering the town’s social history, and curiosities from Castleton’s Victorian-era ‘House of Wonders’, including Harry Houdini’s handcuffs.

Devonshire DomeHISTORIC BUILDING

(map Google map; www.devonshiredome.co.uk; 1 Devonshire Rd)

A glorious piece of Victoriana, the glass Devonshire Dome, built in 1779, is the largest unsupported dome in Europe. It’s home to a training restaurant run by students from the University of Derby and Buxton & Leek College, as well as the Devonshire Spa (map Google map; %01298-330334; spa treatments from £40; h9am-7pm Tue, Wed, Sat & Sun, to 9pm Thu & Fri, 10am-6pm Sun).

oBuxton TramBUS

(map Google map; %01298-79648; https://discoverbuxton.co.uk; adult/child £7.50/5; hby reservation late Mar-Oct)

From the Pavilion Gardens, this eight-seat vintage milk float takes you on a 12mph, hour-or-so circuit of the town centre on its entertaining ‘Wonder of the Peak’ tour.

The same company also offers several hour-long walking tours (from £7), such as Victorian Buxton, from the same departure point.

zFestivals & Events

Buxton FestivalARTS

(www.buxtonfestival.co.uk; hJul)

One of the largest cultural festivals in the country, the 17-day Buxton Festival attracts top names in literature, music and opera at venues including the opera house.

4Sleeping

Old Hall HotelHISTORIC HOTEL££

(map Google map; %01298-22841; www.oldhallhotelbuxton.co.uk; The Square; s/d incl breakfast from £69/79; W#)

There’s a tale to go with every creak of the floorboards at this history-soaked establishment, supposedly the oldest hotel in England. Among other esteemed residents, Mary, Queen of Scots stayed here from 1576 to 1578, albeit against her will. The rooms still retain their grandeur (some have four-poster beds), and there are several bars, lounges and dining options.

Roseleigh HotelB&B££

(map Google map; %01298-24904; www.roseleighhotel.co.uk; 19 Broad Walk; s/d from £51/86; piW)

This gorgeous family-run B&B in a roomy old Victorian house has lovingly decorated rooms, many with fine views over the Pavilion Gardens. The owners are a welcoming couple, both seasoned travellers, with plenty of interesting stories. There’s a minimum two-night stay on summer weekends.

Grosvenor HouseB&B££

(map Google map; %01298-72439; www.grosvenorbuxton.co.uk; 1 Broad Walk; s/d/f from £55/70/100; pW)

Overlooking the Pavilion Gardens, the Grosvenor is an old-school Victorian guesthouse with a huge parlour overlooking the park. Its eight rooms (including one family room sleeping three people plus space for a cot) have antique furniture and patterned wallpaper and drapes. At peak times, there’s a minimum two-night stay and singles aren’t available.

5Eating & Drinking

Barbarella’sINTERNATIONAL££

(map Google map; %01298-71392; www.barbarellaswinebar.co.uk; 7 The Quadrant; mains £10-20; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; W#)

Black-and-white paisley wallpaper, chandeliers and glossy timber tables make this sleek retro wine bar the hottest drinking den in Buxton, but it’s an equally stellar place to dine on sharing boards and deli platters, or more substantial seafood dishes (including a creamy chowder) and chargrilled steaks.

Columbine RestaurantMODERN BRITISH££

(map Google map; %01298-78752; www.columbinerestaurant.co.uk; 7 Hall Bank; mains £14-23.50; h7-10pm Mon & Wed-Sat, noon-2pm Sun) S

On the lane leading down beside the town hall, this understated restaurant is the top choice among discerning Buxtonites. The chef conjures up imaginative dishes primarily made from local produce, such as High Peak lamb with mint butter. Two of its three dining areas are in the atmospheric stone cellar. Bookings are recommended.

Old Sun InnPUB

(map Google map; www.theoldsuninnbuxton.co.uk; 33 High St; hnoon-11pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat)

The cosiest of Buxton’s pubs, this 17th-century coaching inn has a warren of rooms full of original features, proper cask ales and a lively crowd that spans the generations.

3Entertainment

Opera HouseOPERA

(map Google map; %01298-72190; https://buxtonoperahouse.org.uk; Water St; tours £10; htours by reservation)

Designed by theatre architect Frank Matcham in 1903 and restored in 2001, Buxton’s gorgeous opera house hosts a full program of drama, dance, concerts and comedy. Guided backstage tours lasting 90 minutes can be booked via the website. Its neighbouring Pavilion Arts Centre also hosts performances and has a 360-seat cinema.

7Shopping

Scrivener’s Books & BookbindingBOOKS

(map Google map; %01298-73100; www.scrivenersbooks.co.uk; 42 High St; h9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-4pm Sun)

At this delightfully chaotic bookshop, sprawling over five floors, books are filed in piles and the Dewey system has yet to be discovered.

Cavendish ArcadeSHOPPING CENTRE

(www.cavendisharcade.co.uk; Cavendish Circus; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun, individual shop hours vary)

Covered by a barrel-vaulted, stained-glass canopy, Cavendish Arcade houses boutiques selling upmarket gifts.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01298-25106; www.visitpeakdistrict.com; Pavilion Gardens; h10am-5pm Jul & Aug, 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, from 10.30am Sat & Sun Apr-Jun, 10.30am-5pm Sep, to 4pm Oct & Nov, 11am-4pm Dec, Feb & Mar; W) Well-organised office with details of walks in the area.

THE CATHEDRAL OF THE PEAK

Dominating the former lead-mining village of Tideswell, the massive parish church of St John the Baptist (%01298-871317; https://tideswellchurch.org; Commercial Rd, Tideswell; h9am-6pm) – aka the Cathedral of the Peak – has stood here virtually unchanged since the 14th century. Look out for the wooden panels inscribed with the Ten Commandments and the grand 14th-century tomb of local landowner Thurston de Bower, depicted in full medieval armour. It’s 8 miles east of Buxton, linked by bus 66 (£4, 25 minutes, every two hours Monday to Saturday).

Bus 173 links Tideswell with Bakewell (£3.10, 30 minutes, every two hours daily).

8Getting There & Away

Buses stop on both sides of the road at Market Pl. The hourly High Peak service runs to Derby (£8, 1¾ hours), via Bakewell (£5, 30 minutes) and Matlock Bath (£5.20, one hour); five services daily continue to Manchester (£6, 1¼ hours).

Bus 66 serves Chesterfield (£5.90, 1¼ hours, every two hours Monday to Saturday) via Tideswell (£4, 25 minutes) and Eyam (£4.60, 40 minutes).

To reach Sheffield, take bus 65 (£6.40, 1¼ hours, every two hours Monday to Saturday, three services Sunday).

Northern Rail has trains to/from Manchester (£10.60, one hour, hourly).

Castleton

%01433 / Pop 742

Guarding the entrance to the forbidding Winnats Pass gorge, charming Castleton is a magnet for Midlands visitors on summer weekends – come midweek if you want to enjoy the sights in relative peace and quiet. Castleton village’s streets are lined with leaning stone houses, with walking trails criss-crossing the surrounding hills. The atmospheric ruins of Peveril Castle crown the ridge above, while the bedrock below is riddled with fascinating caves.

1Sights

Situated at the base of 517m-high Mam Tor, Castleton is the northern terminus of the Limestone Way, which follows narrow, rocky Cave Dale, far below the east wall of the castle. The tourist office has maps and leaflets, including details of numerous easier walks.

Peveril CastleCASTLE, RUINS

(EH; %01433-620613; www.english-heritage.org.uk; adult/child £5.90/3.50; h10am-6pm Easter-Sep, to 5pm Oct, to 4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Easter)

Topping the ridge to the south of Castleton, a 350m walk from the town centre, this evocative castle has been so ravaged by the centuries that it almost looks like a crag itself. Constructed by William Peveril, William the Conqueror’s son, the castle was used as a hunting lodge by Henry II, King John and Henry III, and the crumbling ruins offer swooping views over the Hope Valley. Before heading up here, check ahead to avoid closures for maintenance.

Castleton MuseumMUSEUM

(%01433-620679; www.peakdistrict.gov.uk; Buxton Rd; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar) F

Attached to the tourist office, the cute town museum has displays on everything from mining and geology to rock climbing, hang-gliding and the curious Garland Festival.

Treak Cliff CavernCAVE

(%01433-620571; www.bluejohnstone.com; Buxton Rd; adult/child £9.95/5.30; h10am-4.15pm Mar-Oct, to 3.15pm Nov-Feb)

Captivating Treak Cliff has a forest of stalactites and exposed seams of colourful Blue John stone, which is still mined to supply the jewellery trade. Tours lasting 40 minutes depart every half-hour and focus on the history of mining; kids can polish their own Blue John stone during school holidays. It’s just under a mile west of Castleton’s village centre.

Blue John CavernCAVE

(%01433-620638; www.bluejohn-cavern.co.uk; adult/child £12/6; h9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, 9.30am-dusk Nov-Mar)

Up the southeastern side of Mam Tor, 2 miles west of Castleton, Blue John is a maze of natural caverns with rich seams of Blue John stone that are still mined every winter. Access is via a one-hour guided tour that departs every 20 minutes. You can get here on foot up the closed section of the Mam Tor road.

Speedwell CavernCAVE

(%01433-623018; www.speedwellcavern.co.uk; Winnats Pass; adult/child £12/10, incl Peak Cavern £19/15.50; h10am-5pm daily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

Just over half a mile west of Castleton at the mouth of Winnats Pass, this claustrophobe’s nightmare is reached by descending 106 steps for an eerie boat ride through flooded tunnels, emerging by a huge subterranean lake called the Bottomless Pit. New chambers are discovered here all the time by potholing expeditions.

Peak CavernCAVE

(%01433-620285; www.peakcavern.co.uk; Peak Cavern Rd; adult/child £11.25/9.25, incl Speedwell Cavern £19/15.50; h10am-5pm daily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

Castleton’s most convenient cave is easily reached by a pretty streamside 250m walk south of the village centre. It has the largest natural cave entrance in England, known (not so prettily) as the Devil’s Arse. Dramatic limestone formations are lit with fibre-optic cables. Buy tickets ahead online in the high season.

zFestivals & Events

Garland FestivalCULTURAL

(www.peakdistrict.gov.uk; h29 May)

Castleton celebrates Oak Apple Day on 29 May (28 May if the 29th is a Sunday) as it has for centuries, with the Garland King (buried under an enormous floral headdress) and Queen parading through the village on horseback.

4Sleeping & Eating

Ye Olde Nag’s Head HotelPUB££

(%01433-620248; www.yeoldenagshead.co.uk; Cross St; d £50-105; W#)

The cosiest of the ‘residential’ pubs along the main road has nine comfortable, well-appointed rooms; top-category rooms have four-poster beds and spas. Ale tasting trays are available in its bar, which has regular live music and a popular restaurant serving pub classics.

Three Roofs CafeCAFE£

(www.threeroofscafe.com; The Island; dishes £5-11; h9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; W)

Castleton’s most popular purveyor of cream teas, opposite the turn-off to the tourist office, also has filling sandwiches, pies, fish and chips, burgers and jacket potatoes.

oSamuel FoxBRITISH£££

(%01433-621562; www.samuelfox.co.uk; Stretfield Rd, Bradwell; 2-/3-/7-course menus £28/35/55; h6-9pm Wed-Sat, 1-4pm Sun Feb-Dec; pW)

In the Hope Valley village of Bradwell, 2.5 miles southeast of Castleton, this enchanting inn owned by pedigreed chef James Duckett serves exceptional British cuisine: venison with pickled red cabbage, and roast pheasant with braised sprouts, bacon and parsnips. Guests staying in its four pastel-shaded guest rooms upstairs (doubles including breakfast from £130) can dine on Monday and Tuesday evenings.

Look out for dinner, bed and breakfast deals.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01433-620679; www.peakdistrict.gov.uk; Buxton Rd; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4.30pm Nov-Mar) In the Castleton Museum.

8Getting There & Away

BUS

Bus services include the following:

Bakewell Bus 173; £3.30, 50 minutes, every two hours via Hope (£2.20, five minutes) and Tideswell (£5.30, 30 minutes)

Sheffield Buses 271 and 272; £5.90, 1¼ hours, four per day Monday to Friday, three Saturday

TRAIN

The nearest train station is at Hope, an easy 2-mile walk east of Castleton, on the line between Sheffield (£5.80, 30 minutes, hourly) and Manchester (£11.80, 55 minutes, hourly).

Derwent Reservoirs

North of the Hope Valley, the upper reaches of the Derwent Valley were flooded between 1916 and 1935 to create three huge reservoirs – the Ladybower, Derwent and Howden Reservoirs – to supply Sheffield, Leicester, Nottingham and Derby with water. These constructed lakes soon proved their worth – the Dambusters (Royal Air Force Squadron No 617) carried out practice runs over Derwent Reservoir before unleashing their ‘bouncing bombs’ on the Ruhr Valley in Germany in WWII.

These days, the reservoirs are popular destinations for walkers, cyclists and mountain bikers – and lots of ducks, so drive slowly!

1Sights & Activities

Derwent Dam MuseumMUSEUM

(www.dambusters.org.uk; Fairholmes; h10am-4pm Sun) F

The exploits of the Royal Air Force Squadron No 617, aka the Dambusters, are detailed in the Derwent Dam Museum in the western tower atop the dam where they tested their ‘bouncing bombs’.

Derwent Cycle Hire CentreCYCLING

(%01433-651261; www.peakdistrict.gov.uk; Fairholmes; per half-/full day standard bike £14/17, electric bike £23/27; h9.30am-5pm early Feb-early Nov)

Fairholmes’ cycle-hire centre rents wheels including mountain bikes, kids’ bikes and electric bikes.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01433-650953; www.peakdistrict.gov.uk; Fairholmes; h9.30am-5pm early Feb-early Nov, 10am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat & Sun early Nov-early Feb) Provides walking and cycling advice.

Edale

%01433 / Pop 353

Surrounded by majestic Peak District countryside, this cluster of stone houses centred on a pretty parish church is an enchanting place to pass the time. Edale lies between the White and Dark Peak areas, and is the southern terminus of the Pennine Way. Despite the remote location, the Manchester–Sheffield train line passes through the village, bringing throngs of weekend visitors.

4Sleeping & Eating

Fieldhead CampsiteCAMPSITE£

(%01433-670386; www.fieldhead-campsite.co.uk; Fieldhead; site per person/car £7/3.50; hFeb-Dec; pW)

Next to the Moorland Tourist Office, this pretty and well-equipped campsite spreads over six fields, with some pitches right by the river. Showers cost 20p. No campervans are allowed; fires and barbecues are not permitted.

Edale YHAHOSTEL£

(%0845 371 9514; www.yha.org.uk; Rowland Cote, Nether Booth; dm/d/f from £13/50/70; pW)

Spectacular views across to Back Tor unfold from this country-house hostel 1.5 miles east of Edale, signposted from the Hope road. All 157 beds are bunks; wi-fi in public areas only. Check availability ahead as it’s often busy with school groups.

StonecroftB&B££

(%01433-670262; https://stonecroftguesthouse.co.uk; Grindsbrook; s/d from £60/105; pW) S

This handsomely fitted-out stone house, built in the 1900s, has three comfortable guest rooms (two doubles, one single). Host Julia’s organic breakfasts are gluten-free, with vegetarian and vegan options; packed lunches (£7.50) are available by request when booking. Bike rental costs £25 per half-day. Pick-up from the train station can be arranged. Kids aren’t permitted.

Cooper’s CafeCAFE£

(%01433-670401; Grindsbrook; dishes £2-11; h9am-4pm Mon, Tue, Thu & Fri, 8am-5pm Sat & Sun; W)

Fuel up on soups, burgers, jacket potatoes, house-speciality vegetarian chilli and cakes at this cheerful cafe close to the village school.

Rambler InnPUB FOOD££

(%01433-670268; www.dorbiere.co.uk; Grindsbrook; mains £7.50-11; hkitchen noon-9.30pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun, bar noon-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; Wc)

Opposite the train station, this stone pub warmed by open fires serves real ales and pub standards, such as stews and sausages and mash. There’s a kids’ menu, nine basic B&B rooms (double/triple/family from £90/110/155) and occasional live music.

8Information

Moorland Tourist Office (%01433-670207; www.peakdistrict.gov.uk; Fieldhead; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Sep, reduced hours Oct-Dec & Feb-Mar) Topped by a sedum-turf ‘living roof’, with a waterfall splashing across its glass panels, this eco-conscious visitor centre has maps, displays on the moors and an adjacent campsite.

8Getting There & Away

Trains run from Edale to Manchester (£11.60, 45 minutes, hourly) and Sheffield (£7.40, 30 minutes, hourly).

Eyam

%01433 / Pop 969

Quaint little Eyam (ee-em), a former lead-mining village, has a poignant history. In 1665 the town was infected by the dreaded Black Death plague, carried here by fleas on a consignment of cloth from London, and the village rector, William Mompesson, convinced villagers to quarantine themselves. Some 270 of Eyam’s 800 inhabitants succumbed, while surrounding villages remained relatively unscathed. Today, Eyam’s sloping streets of old cottages backed by rows of green hills are delightful to wander.

`u`Driving Tour
Peak District

START BAKEWELL

END BUXTON

LENGTH 52 MILES; ONE TO TWO DAYS

Although you can drive this route in just a few hours, there’s a lot to see and even more to do, so pack your hiking boots and consider breaking your journey overnight.

Fuel up at the pretty town of 1Bakewell, famed for its distinctive Bakewell pudding. Head south on the A6 for 3.5 miles to Rowsley and turn left on winding Church Lane for 2 miles to visit the atmospheric medieval manor, 2Haddon Hall.

Return to Rowsley, turn left on the A6 and left on the B6012 – follow it for 2.9 miles before turning right to reach the ‘Palace of the Peak’, 3Chatsworth House.

Back on the B6012, turn right to join the A619. At Baslow, home to the country hotel and Michelin-starred restaurant Fischer’s Baslow Hall, turn left at the roundabout and travel along the A623 for 3.4 miles to the turn-off for 4Eyam. Drive up the hill to reach its quaint museum, where you can learn about the town’s poignant plague history. There’s fantastic walking here.

Continue up the hill and turn right on Edge Rd, then right on Sir William Hill Rd and left on the B601 at Grindleford. Continue to Hathersage and turn left on the A6187 to Hope Valley. From here, turn right on the A6013, passing Ladybower Reservoir, to reach the 5Derwent Dam Museum. Pop in to learn about the Dambusters squadron’s ‘bouncing bombs’ tests here during WWII.

It’s 5.8 miles back to the Hope Valley turn-off. Then turn right onto Hathersage Rd, right again on Edale Rd and follow the valley to stretch your legs at another prime walking destination, 6Edale.

Scenery peaks when you travel towards Castleton, climbing the steep hill near 517m-high Mam Tor to Winnats Rd, then following the spectacular former coral-reef canyon Winnats Pass to explore 7Speedwell Cavern.

From Speedwell Cavern, head west along Arthurs Way on to Winnats Rd. Turning right on the A623 brings you to the riot of Victoriana in the former spa town of 8 Buxton.

1Sights

Eyam Parish ChurchCHURCH

(St Lawrence’s Church; www.eyam-church.org; Church St; by donation; h9am-6pm Easter-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Easter)

Many victims of the village’s 1665 Black Death plague outbreak were buried at Eyam’s church, whose history dates back to Saxon times. You can view stained-glass panels and moving displays telling the story of the outbreak. The churchyard contains a cross carved in the 8th century.

Eyam MuseumMUSEUM

(www.eyam.museum.org.uk; Hawkhill Rd; adult/child £2.50/2; h10am-4pm Tue-Sun Easter-Oct)

Vivid displays on the Eyam plague are the centrepiece of the engaging town museum, alongside exhibits on the village’s history of lead mining and silk weaving.

Eyam HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(https://eyamhall.net; Main Rd; craft centre free, house & garden adult/child £12/6; hcraft centre 10am-4.30pm Wed-Sun year-round, house & garden 11am-3pm Wed, Thu & Sun mid-Feb–late Apr)

Surrounded by a traditional English walled garden, this solid-looking 17th-century manor house with stone windows and door frames has a craft centre, a cheese shop, a craft-beer shop and a cafe in its grounds.

4Sleeping & Eating

Miner’s ArmsPUB££

(%01433-630853; www.theminersarmseyam.co.uk; Water Lane; s/d from £45/70; W)

Although its age isn’t immediately obvious, this traditional village inn was built shortly before the Black Death hit Eyam in 1665. Inside you’ll find beamed ceilings, affable staff, a blazing open fire, comfy en-suite rooms and good-value pub food (mains £9 to £14.50).

Village GreenCAFE£

(www.cafevillagegreen.com; The Square; dishes £2-7; h9.15am-4.15pm Thu-Mon; W)

On the village square, with tables on the cobblestones outside, this sweet cafe has homemade soups, a mouthwatering array of cakes and slices (some gluten-free), and decent coffee.

8Getting There & Away

Bus services include the following:

Bakewell Bus 275; £3.90, 20 minutes, three per day Monday to Saturday

Buxton Buses 65 and 66; £4.60, 40 minutes, every two hours Monday to Saturday

Sheffield Bus 65; £5.90, 50 minutes, every two hours Monday to Saturday

Bakewell

%01629 / Pop 3950

The second-largest town in the Peak District, charming Bakewell is a great base for exploring the limestone dales of the White Peak. Filled with storybook stone buildings, the town is ringed by famous walking trails and stately homes, but it’s probably best known for its famous Bakewell pudding, a pastry shell filled with jam and a custard-like mixture of eggs, butter, sugar and almonds, invented here in 1820.

1Sights

oChatsworth HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

(%01246-565300; www.chatsworth.org; house & gardens adult/child £21/12.50, gardens only £14/7, playground £6.50, park free; h10.30am-5pm late May-early Sep, shorter hours mid-Mar–late May & early Sep-early Jan)

Known as the ‘Palace of the Peak’, this vast edifice 3 miles northeast of Bakewell has been occupied by the earls and dukes of Devonshire for centuries. Inside, the lavish apartments and mural-painted staterooms are packed with priceless paintings and period furniture. The house sits in 25 sq miles of grounds and ornamental gardens, some landscaped by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown. Kids will love the farmyard adventure playground.

From Bakewell, take bus 218 (£2.70, 15 minutes, half-hourly).

The manor was founded in 1552 by the formidable Bess of Hardwick and her second husband, William Cavendish, who earned grace and favour by helping Henry VIII dissolve the English monasteries. Mary, Queen of Scots was imprisoned at Chatsworth on the orders of Elizabeth I in 1569.

Look out for the portraits of the current generation of Devonshires by Lucian Freud.

Also on the estate is one of the country’s premier farm shops and an attached cafe.

Walkers can take footpaths through Chatsworth park via the mock-Venetian village of Edensor (en-sor), while cyclists can pedal via Pilsley.

Haddon HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(%01629-812855; www.haddonhall.co.uk; Haddon Rd; adult/child £15.75/free; h10.30am-5pm daily late Mar-Sep, 10.30am-5pm Fri-Mon Oct, 10.30am-4pm Dec)

With stone turrets, time-worn timbers and walled gardens, Haddon Hall, 2 miles south of Bakewell on the A6, looks exactly like a medieval manor house should. Founded in the 12th century, it was expanded and remodelled throughout medieval times but lay dormant from 1700 until its restoration in the 1920s. Take the High Peak bus from Bakewell (£2.50, 10 minutes, hourly) or walk along the footpath through the fields, mostly on the east side of the river.

Spared from the more florid excesses of the Victorian period, Haddon Hall has been used as the location for numerous period blockbusters (such as 2005’s Pride and Prejudice and 1998’s Elizabeth).

Thornbridge BreweryBREWERY

(%01629-815999; www.thornbridgebrewery.com; Buxton Rd; tours adult/child £10/3; htours by reservation 3pm Wed, Thu & Fri, shop 9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri)

Brews by this riverside brewery include bottled varieties (such as a fruity strawberry-blonde ale, I Love You Will You Marry Me), keg beers (eg its Vienna-style lager Kill Your Darlings) and cask ales (including its hoppy Brother Rabbit). Tours lasting 1½ hours take you behind the scenes and include tastings in Thornbridge glasses, which you get to keep afterwards. Under-five-year-olds aren’t permitted on tours. It’s half a mile from the centre of Bakewell on the northwestern edge of town.

Old House MuseumMUSEUM

(%01629-813642; www.oldhousemuseum.org.uk; Cunningham Pl; adult/child £5/2.50; h11am-4pm late Mar-early Nov)

Bakewell’s local-history museum occupies a time-worn stone house that was built as a tax collector’s premises during Henry VIII’s rule and was expanded in the Elizabethan era, before being split into tiny mill workers’ cottages during the Industrial Revolution. Check out the Tudor toilet and the displays on wattle and daub, a traditional technique for building walls using woven twigs and cow dung.

2Activities

The scenic Monsal Trail follows the path of a disused railway line from Combs Viaduct on the outskirts of Bakewell to Topley Pike in Wye Dale (3 miles east of Buxton), including a number of reopened old railway tunnels, covering 8.5 miles in all.

For a rewarding shorter walk, follow the Monsal Trail for 3 miles to the dramatic viewpoint at Monsal Head, where you can pause for refreshment at the Monsal Head Hotel, which serves real ales and excellent Modern British cuisine. With more time, continue to Miller’s Dale, where viaducts give a spectacular vista across the steep-sided valley. The tourist offices at Bakewell and Buxton have full details.

Other walking routes go to the stately homes of Haddon Hall and Chatsworth House.

4Sleeping

Hassop Hall HotelHISTORIC HOTEL££

(%01629-640488; www.hassophallhotel.co.uk; Hassop Rd, Hassop; d from £110; pW)

Built in the 14th century and extensively remodelled in the 17th century, this magnificent property 3 miles north of Bakewell amid formal gardens and woodland is entered via a grand driveway with a gatehouse. Some of its 13 rooms have four-poster beds, decorative fireplaces and freestanding baths. Its restaurant serves refined dishes, such as salt-crusted English duckling.

Rutland Arms HotelHOTEL££

(%01629-338051; https://rutlandarmsbakewell.co.uk; The Square; s/d incl breakfast from £64/116; pW#)

Jane Austen is said to have stayed in room 2 of this aristocratic, 1804-built stone coaching inn while working on Pride and Prejudice. Its 33 rooms are located in the main house and adjacent courtyard building; higher-priced rooms have lots of Victorian flourishes.

5Eating

oChatsworth Estate Farm Shop CafeCAFE, DELI£

(www.chatsworth.org; Pilsley; dishes £6-14.50; hcafe & shop 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun; v) S

One of the finest places to eat in the Peak District, this bucolic cafe serves hearty breakfasts (eggs Benedict with Chatsworth-cured bacon or salmon; strawberry-and-honey Chatsworth yoghurt with muesli) until 11.30am, segueing to lunches (steak-and-kidney suet pudding; traditional roasts) until 3pm, and an afternoon menu. Over half the products at its adjacent farm shop are produced on the estate.

Old Original Bakewell Pudding ShopBAKERY, CAFE£

(www.bakewellpuddingshop.co.uk; The Square; dishes £7-12.50; h8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, from 9am Sun)

One of those that claims to have invented the Bakewell Pudding, this place has a lovely 1st-floor tearoom with exposed beams. It serves light meals and afternoon teas on tiered trays.

Monsal Head HotelBRITISH££

(%01629-640250; www.monsalhead.com; Monsal Trail; mains £11.50-16; hkitchen noon-9.30pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; pW#)

At the dramatic viewpoint of Monsal Head, its namesake hotel serves real ales and brilliant British cuisine, such as Cheshire cheese and horseradish soufflé, braised Derbyshire beef with smoked-garlic mash, and blackberry crumble with spiced vanilla custard and crystallised stinging nettle leaves. Book ahead to stay in its seven simple but comfortable rooms (doubles including breakfast from £110).

JuniperPIZZA££

(%01629-815629; www.juniperbakewell.co.uk; Rutland Sq; pizza £8-13.75; h3-10pm Sun-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat; Wv)

Done out with juniper-berry-coloured walls and tartan-upholstered chairs, this chic little spot combines a gin bar stocking 40-plus varieties (and Bakewell-brewed Thornbridge beers) with a contemporary pizza kitchen. Steaming pizzas include Let’s Meat (salami, bacon, sausage, spiced beef and pepperoni), Billy Goat (goats cheese, caramelised red onion and mozzarella) and Mighty Brunch (black pudding, mushrooms and eggs).

Piedaniel’sFRENCH££

(%01629-812687; www.piedaniels-restaurant.com; Bath St; mains lunch £13, dinner £16-25; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm Tue-Sat)

Chefs Eric and Christiana Piedaniel’s Modern French cuisine is the toast of the in-town restaurants. A whitewashed dining room is the exquisite setting for the likes of Normandy onion soup with cider and Gruyère cheese, followed by pork roulade with braised red cabbage and grain-mustard sauce, and flaming crêpes Suzette.

oFischer’s Baslow HallGASTRONOMY£££

(%01246-583259; www.fischers-baslowhall.co.uk; 259 Calver Rd, Baslow; 2-/3-/6-course lunch menus £25/33.50/68, 2-/3-/8-course dinner menus £64.50/78.50/88; hnoon-2pm & 7-9pm; Wv)

This 1907-built manor house, 4 miles northeast of Bakewell, has a magnificent Michelin-starred dining room showcasing British produce (Derbyshire lamb, Yorkshire game, Cornish crab…) along with vegetables from its kitchen garden. Six sumptuous floral bedrooms are in the main house, with another five in the adjacent garden house (doubles including breakfast from £260, including a three-course dinner menu from £367).

6Drinking & Nightlife

Pointing Dog & DuckPUB

(www.pointingdog.co.uk; Coombs Rd; h11am-11pm; W)

A restored saw mill once powered by the river on which it sits now houses this pub with soaring beamed ceilings, exposed stone walls and views of the river’s ducks from its waterside terrace. It’s an idyllic spot for a pint or pub food, such as ale-battered fish and chips or chargrilled steaks.

7Shopping

Bakewell DeliFOOD & DRINKS

(www.facebook.com/bakewelldeli; Rutland Sq; h9am-5pm)

Peak District–roasted Full Moon coffee, Matlock Bath honey, Bakewell puddings, and locally cured meats, chutneys, jams and pies fill the shelves of this enticing deli, along with over 50 British cheeses, including artisan varieties made nearby at the Hope Valley’s Cow Close Farm. You can also pick up sandwiches, wraps and soups for a riverside picnic.

Bakewell MarketMARKET

(Granby Rd; h9am-4pm Mon)

Local producers including Hope Valley Ice Cream, Peak Ales, Bittersweet Chocolates, Brock & Morten (cold-pressed oils) and Caudwell Mill (flour) are among the 160-plus regular stalls at Bakewell’s lively Monday market.

8Information

Tourist Office (%01629-816558; www.visitpeakdistrict.com; Bridge St; h9.30am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10.30am-4.30pm Nov-Mar) In the old Market Hall, with a photography gallery on the mezzanine.

8Getting There & Away

Bakewell lies on the High Peak bus route. Buses run hourly to Buxton (£5, 30 minutes), Derby (£6.50, 1¼ hours) and Matlock Bath (£2.70, 35 minutes). Five services a day continue to Manchester (£8, 1¾ hours).

Other services:

Castleton Bus 173; £3.30, 50 minutes, four per day, via Tideswell (£3.10, 30 minutes)

Chesterfield Bus 170; £4.80, 50 minutes, hourly Monday to Saturday, every two hours Sunday

Newark-on-Trent

Southwell

LINCOLNSHIRE

Lincoln

WORTH A TRIP

BELTON HOUSE

Boston

LINCOLNSHIRE: BOMBER COUNTY

Stamford

THE HOME OF SIR ISAAC NEWTON

WORTH A TRIP

ALTHORP HOUSE

LEICESTERSHIRE

Leicester

WORTH A TRIP

GEORGE WASHINGTON’S ANCESTRAL HOME

THE BATTLE OF BOSWORTH

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

HAMMER & PINCERS

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

STOKE BRUERNE & THE GRAND UNION CANAL

Rutland

DERBYSHIRE

Derby

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

CONKERS & THE NATIONAL FOREST

DON’T MISS

KEDLESTON HALL

Ashbourne

Matlock Bath

Chesterfield

PEAK DISTRICT

PEAK DISTRICT TRANSPORT PASSES

Buxton

THE CATHEDRAL OF THE PEAK

Castleton

Derwent Reservoirs

Edale

Eyam

uDriving TourPeak District

Bakewell

`u`Driving Tour
Peak District