Elterwater & Great Langdale

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Travelling north from Coniston, the road passes into the wild, empty landscape of Great Langdale, one of Lakeland’s iconic hiking valleys. As you pass the pretty village of Elterwater, imposing fells stack up like dominoes along the horizon, looming over a pastoral patchwork of tumbledown barns and lime-green fields.

The circuit around the line-up of fells known as the Langdale Pikes – Pike O’ Stickle (709m), Loft Crag (682m), Harrison Stickle (736m) and Pavey Ark (700m) – is the valley’s most popular hike, allowing you to tick off between three and five Wainwrights depending on your route, and covering around six steep, hard-going miles. Allow a good six hours.

4Sleeping

Langdale YHAHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%0845 371 9748; www.yha.org.uk; High Close, Loughrigg; dm £13-32; icon-hoursgifhMar-Oct, reception 7-10am & 3-11pm; icon-parkgifpicon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

If you didn’t know this was a hostel, you’d think it was a grand country hotel: vast, Victorian and set in private grounds with its own arboretum. Big dorms with sash windows overlook the fells and there’s a cavernous kitchen and lounge (with original ornate fireplace). The cafe serves breakfast, packed lunches and a two-course ‘supper club’.

Note that it’s a couple of miles from Great Langdale, but the 516 bus runs right past.

Great Langdale CampsiteCAMPSITE£

(NT; icon-phonegif%015394-63862; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/features/great-langdale-campsite; Great Langdale; sites £12-25, extra adult £6, pods £35-70; icon-hoursgifharrivals 3-7pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri; icon-parkgifp)

Quite possibly the most spectacularly positioned campsite in the Lake District, spread over grassy meadows overlooked by Langdale’s fells. It gets crowded in high season, but 120 sites can be booked in advance; another 50 or so are on a first-come, first-served basis. Camping pods and yurts are also available.

Elterwater HostelHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%015394-37245; www.elterwaterhostel.co.uk; Elterwater; dm/d/f £25/58/124; icon-internetgifi)

Formerly owned by the YHA, this indie hostel is in a lovely spot just a short walk from Elterwater’s grassy green. It was once a farmhouse but now has 40 beds split across several (mostly six-bed) dorms, some of which can be taken as private family rooms. Breakfast and dinner is available in the cafe, or there’s a self-caterers’ kitchen.

icon-top-choiceoOld Dungeon GhyllHOTEL££

(icon-phonegif%015394-37272; www.odg.co.uk; Great Langdale; s £58, d £116-132; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifWicon-petgif#)

Affectionately known as the ODG, this inn is awash with Lakeland heritage: many famous walkers have stayed here, including Prince Charles and mountaineer Chris Bonington. It’s endearingly olde worlde (well-worn furniture, four-poster beds) and even if you’re not staying, the slate-floored, fire-warmed Hiker’s Bar is a must for a posthike pint – it’s been the hub of Langdale’s social life for decades.

icon-top-choiceoBrimstone HotelHOTEL£££

(icon-phonegif%015394-38062; www.brimstonehotel.co.uk; Langdale Estate, Great Langdale; r £340-520; icon-parkgifp)

This lavish complex on the Langdale Estate offers next-level luxury. The huge suites are more London-chic than Lakeland-cosy – mezzanine floors, sleek tiles, private patios and futuristic log burners are standard, and there’s a reading room, Arc’teryx-stocked kit room, private woodland and the superb Stove restaurant. The new Brimstone Spa adds even more spoils: outdoor pool, chill-out rooms, private spa for two.

icon-top-choiceoEltermere InnHOTEL£££

(icon-phonegif%015394-37207; www.eltermere.co.uk; Elterwater; r £149-295; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

This charming inn is one of Lakeland’s loveliest backwater boltholes. Rooms are simple and classic, tastefully decorated in fawns and taupes with quirky features such as window seats and free-standing baths. The food’s excellent, too, served in the inn’s snug bar; afternoon tea is served on the lawn on sunny days.

5Eating

SticklebarnPUB FOOD£

(icon-phonegif%015394-37356; Great Langdale; lunch mains £5-8, dinner mains £11-13.50; icon-hoursgifh11am-9pm)

Now run by the National Trust, this converted barn is a walkers’ favourite: it’s packed with people nursing pints and aching fell-sore legs at the end of the day. Food is wholesome and hearty: herdwick and ale stew, venison ragu and ropa vieja chilli, washed down with a good ale selection.

Chesters by the RiverCAFE££

(icon-phonegif%015394-32553; www.chestersbytheriver.co.uk; Skelwith Bridge; lunch mains £8-15; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

Beside a rattling brook at Skelwith Bridge, halfway between Ambleside and Elterwater, this smart cafe is definitely more gourmet than greasy spoon: delicious salads, specials and cakes make it well worth a stop. There’s a chic gift shop, too – items include slate souvenirs from the workshop around the corner.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 516 (six daily) is the only bus, with stops at Ambleside, Skelwith Bridge, Elterwater and the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel in Great Langdale. The fare from Ambleside all the way into Great Langdale is £5.90.

Wasdale

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Carving its way for 5 miles from the Cumbrian coast, the craggy, wind-lashed valley of Wasdale is where the Lake District scenery takes a turn for the wild. Ground out by a long-extinct glacier, the valley is home to the Lake District’s highest and wildest peaks, as well as the steely grey expanse of Wastwater, England’s deepest and coldest lake.

Wasdale’s fells are an irresistible draw for hikers, especially those looking to conquer England’s tallest mountain, Scafell Pike (978m).

2Activities

icon-top-choiceoScafell PikeHIKING

At 978m, England’s highest mountain features on every self-respecting hiker’s bucket list. The classic route starts from Wasdale Head; it’s hard going but within the reach of most moderately fit walkers, although it’s steep and hard to navigate in bad weather. It’s a return trip of around six to seven hours.

Proper gear is essential: raincoat, rucksack (backpack), map, food, water and hiking boots. A favourable weather forecast is preferable to make the most of the views.

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoWasdale Hall YHAHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%0845-371 9350; www.yha.org.uk; Wasdale Hall, Nether Wasdale; dm £13-30; icon-hoursgifhreception 8-10am & 5-10.30pm; icon-parkgifp)

This hostel on the shores of Wastwater has the kind of location you’d normally pay through the nose for. It’s in a 19th-century mock-Tudor mansion that still has most of its period architecture, including original roof trusses and latticed windows. It has the usual self-catering facilities, plus a very decent restaurant.

Wasdale Head CampsiteCAMPSITE£

(NT; icon-phonegif%bookings 015394-63862; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/features/lake-district-camping; sites £12-25, extra adult £6, pods £35-80)

This National Trust campsite is in a fantastically wild spot, nestled beneath the Scafell range. Facilities are basic (laundry room, showers), but the views are out of this world. Camping pods (some with electric hook-ups) and tepees provide a bit more shelter in case Wasdale’s notorious weather decides to make an appearance.

icon-top-choiceoWasdale Head InnB&B££

(icon-phonegif%019467-26229; www.wasdale.com; s £59, d £118-130, tr £177; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

A slice of hill-walking heritage here. Hunkering beneath the brooding bulk of Scafell Pike, this 19th-century hostelry is gloriously old-fashioned and covered in vintage photos and climbing memorabilia. The rooms are cosy, with roomier suites in a converted stable. The wood-panelled dining room serves fine food, with pub grub and ales from the Great Gable Brewing Co in Ritson’s Bar.

Camping is also available for £5 a night.

Cockermouth

icon-phonegif%01900 / Pop 9146

Set at the confluence of the River Cocker and River Derwent, the Georgian town of Cockermouth is best known as the birthplace of William Wordsworth and the home base of the renowned Jennings Brewery. Unfortunately, its position beside two major rivers means it has suffered frequent episodes of flooding – most recently in 2009 and 2015, when much of the town centre was swamped.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoWordsworth HouseHISTORIC BUILDING

(NT; icon-phonegif%01900-824805; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/wordsworth-house; Main St; adult/child £7.90/3.95; icon-hoursgifh11am-5pm Sat-Thu Mar-Oct)

The poet William Wordsworth was born on 7 April 1770 at this handsome Georgian house at the end of Main St. Built around 1745, the house has been meticulously restored based on accounts from the Wordsworth archive: the kitchen, drawing room, study and bedrooms all look much as they would have to a young William. Costumed guides wander around the house for added period authenticity. Outside, the walled kitchen garden was mentioned in Wordsworth’s autobiographical epic The Prelude.

The house also has some interesting hands-on experiences: you can try using a quill pen in the former clerk’s office, play some chords on a harpsichord and (if the maid is in residence on the day you visit) watch meals being prepared over the kitchen’s blazing fire. Exhibitions document the Wordsworth family’s story and William’s poetic legacy.

Jennings BreweryBREWERY

(icon-phonegif%01900-821011; www.jenningsbrewery.co.uk; adult/child £9/4.50; icon-hoursgifhguided tours 1.30pm Wed-Sat)

Real-ale aficionados will be familiar with the Jennings name – it has been brewing beers since 1874 and its pints are pulled at pubs all over the Lake District. Guided tours trace the brewing process, followed by a tasting session of Cocker Hoop and Sneck Lifter in the Old Cooperage Bar. Children must be over 12.

4Sleeping

Old HomesteadB&B££

(icon-phonegif%01900-822223; www.byresteads.co.uk; Byresteads Farm; s £40-50, d £60-80; icon-parkgifp)

Byre is an old English dialect word meaning ‘cowshed’, but you certainly won’t be roughing it with the animals at this lovely farm conversion. The rooms are sweet and traditional, blending classic pine, flagstones and rendered walls with modern luxuries like power showers and underfloor heating. The Cruck Rooms and Master’s Loft are the pick of the bunch.

It’s 2 miles from Cockermouth.

Croft HouseB&B££

(icon-phonegif%01900-827533; www.croft-guesthouse.com; 6/8 Challoner St; s £68-88, d £78-98; icon-wifigifW)

A pleasant little base in a lemon-yellow terraced house along a side road off the town’s main street. All the rooms are decorated with great care: from tasteful tartan bedsteads and contemporary wallpapers to little posable bedside lights. Homemade granola and orange pancakes make breakfast a treat.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoMeriendaCAFE£

(icon-phonegif%017687-72024; www.merienda.co.uk; 7a Station St; mains £4-8; icon-hoursgifh8am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, 9am-9pm Sun)

This Cockermouth fave is open daily and has a second branch in Keswick. The interior is light and airy and the Med-tinged food is packed with flavour. There’s a good balance between meat and veggie-friendly dishes. Carnivores might enjoy a generous slow-cooked BBQ brisket burger, while herbivores should try the excellent baked eggs with feta and aubergine.

Quince & MedlarVEGETARIAN££

(icon-phonegif%01900-823579; www.quinceandmedlar.co.uk; 13 Castlegate; mains £15.50; icon-hoursgifh7-10pm Tue-Sat; icon-veggifv) icon-sustainableS

Even if you’re a committed carnivore, it’s well worth dining here to see that vegetarian food isn’t just nut roast and baked mushrooms – here, you could find yourself feasting on courgette-wrapped cheese soufflé, root veg and puy lentil ‘haggis’ or French onion tartlet. The location in a Georgian house is very handsome.

Bitter EndPUB

(icon-phonegif%01900-828993; www.bitterend.co.uk; 15 Kirkgate; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-10pm)

This brewpub produces its own award-winning beers such as Cockermouth Pride, Lakeland Honey Beer and Cuddy Lugs. You can watch the vats at work through a glass partition in the bar.

8Information

Cockermouth Tourist Office (icon-phonegif%01900-822634; www.cockermouth.org.uk; 88 Main St; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)

8Getting There & Away

Bus X4/X5 (half-hourly Monday to Saturday, hourly Sunday) travels from Cockermouth to Keswick (£6.10) and Penrith (£7.40).

Keswick

icon-phonegif%017687 / Pop 4821

The most northerly of the Lake District’s major towns, Keswick has perhaps the most beautiful location of all: encircled by cloud-capped fells and nestled alongside the idyllic, island-studded lake of Derwentwater, a silvery curve criss-crossed by puttering cruise boats. It’s also brilliantly positioned for further adventures into the nearby valleys of Borrowdale and Buttermere, and a great base for walking – the hefty fells of Skiddaw and Blencathra rise nearby.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoKeswick MuseumMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%017687-73263; www.keswickmuseum.org.uk; Station Rd; adult/child £4.50/3; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm)

Keswick’s quirky town museum explores the area’s history, from ancient archaeology through to the arrival of industry in the Lakes. It’s a diverse collection, taking in everything from neolithic axe heads mined in the Langdale valley to a huge collection of taxidermied butterflies. Its best-known exhibits are a 700-year-old mummified cat and the Musical Stones of Skiddaw, a weird instrument made from hornsfel rock that was once played for Queen Victoria.

Castlerigg Stone CircleMONUMENT

icon-freeF Set on a hilltop a mile east of town, this jaw-dropping stone circle consists of 48 stones that are between 3000 and 4000 years old, surrounded by a dramatic ring of mountain peaks.

Lakes DistilleryDISTILLERY

(icon-phonegif%017687-88850; www.lakesdistillery.com; tours £12.50; icon-hoursgifh11am-6pm)

The first craft distillery in the Lake District has made a big splash since opening in 2014. It’s located on a ‘model farm’ built during the 1850s and was founded by a team of master distillers. So far its range includes a gin, a vodka and a flagship whisky, plus liqueurs flavoured with damson plum, elderflower, rhubarb and rosehip, and salted caramel. Guided tours take you through the process and include a tasting of the three spirits.

You can also take a specialist whisky tour, and meet the distillery’s resident herd of alpacas. The Bistro at the Distillery is worth a look for lunch, too.

Whinlatter Forest ParkFOREST

(www.forestry.gov.uk/whinlatter) icon-freeF

Encompassing 4.6 sq miles of pine, larch and spruce, Whinlatter is England’s only true mountain forest, rising sharply to 790m about 5 miles from Keswick. The forest is a designated red squirrel reserve; you can check out live video feeds from squirrel cams at the visitor centre (icon-phonegif%017687-78469; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm). It’s also home to two exciting mountain-bike trails and the Go Ape (www.goape.co.uk/days-out/whinlatter; adult/child £33/25; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm mid-Mar–Oct) treetop assault course. You can hire bikes from Cyclewise (icon-phonegif%017687-78711; www.cyclewise.co.uk; 3hr hire adult/child from £19.50/15; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm), next to the visitor centre.

Entry to the forest is free, but you have to pay for parking (£2 for one hour, £8 all day).

Bus 77 (four daily) runs from Keswick or, if you’re driving, head west on the A66 and look out for the brown signs near Braithwaite.

Derwent Pencil MuseumMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%017687-73626; www.pencilmuseum.co.uk; Southy Works; adult/child £4.95/3.95; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm)

Reopened after being badly damaged in the 2015 floods, Keswick’s oddest museum is devoted to the charms of the humble pencil – with exhibits including a pencil made for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee, wartime spy pencils that were hollowed out for secret maps, and the world’s largest pencil (a mighty 8m long). It all stems from the discovery of graphite in the Borrowdale valley during the 17th century, after which Keswick became a major pencil manufacturer.

2Activities

Keswick LaunchBOATING

(icon-phonegif%017687-72263; www.keswick-launch.co.uk; round-the-lake pass adult/child/family £10.75/5.65/25.50)

Shimmering to the south of Keswick, studded with islands and ringed by craggy fells, Derwentwater is undoubtedly one of the prettiest of the Lakeland lakes. As always, getting out on the water is the best way to explore. The Keswick Launch runs regular cross-lake excursions, and rowboats and motor boats (£12/27 per hour) can be hired next to the jetties.

zFestivals & Events

Keswick Mountain FestivalOUTDOORS

(www.keswickmountainfestival.co.uk; icon-hoursgifhMay)

This May festival celebrates all things mountainous.

Keswick Beer FestivalBEER

(www.keswickbeerfestival.co.uk; icon-hoursgifhJun)

Lots and lots of beer is drunk during Keswick’s real-ale fest in June.

4Sleeping

Keswick YHAHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%0845 371 9746; www.yha.org.uk; Station Rd; dm £15-35; icon-hoursgifhreception 7am-11pm; icon-wifigifW)

Refurbished after flooding in 2015, Keswick’s handsome YHA looks as good as new – its premium facilities include an open-plan ground-floor cafe, a seriously smart kitchen and cracking views over Fitz Park and the rushing River Greta. The dorm decor is standard YHA, but some rooms have private riverside balconies. What a treat!

icon-top-choiceoHowe KeldB&B££

(icon-phonegif%017687-72417; www.howekeld.co.uk; 5-7 The Heads; s £65-90, d £110-140; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

This gold-standard B&B pulls out all the stops: goose-down duvets, slate-floored bathrooms, chic colours and locally made furniture. The best rooms have views across Crow Park and the golf course, and the breakfast is a pick-and-mix delight. Free parking is available on The Heads if there’s space.

LookoutB&B££

(icon-phonegif%017687-80407; www.thelookoutkeswick.co.uk; Chestnut Hill; d £90-120; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

The clue’s in the name: this three-room B&B is all about the views – there’s a panorama of fells filling every window. It’s in a gabled 1920s house, but feels modern with cappuccino-and-cream colour schemes, wooden beds and minimalist glass showers. There’s a pleasant garden, too. Take Penrith Rd west and turn right onto Chestnut Hill; the B&B is on the left.

Linnett HillB&B££

(icon-phonegif%017687-44518; www.linnetthillkeswick.co.uk; 4 Penrith Rd; s £50, d £88-98; icon-wifigifW)

Much recommended by travellers, this lovingly run B&B has lots going for it: crisp white rooms, a great location near Fitz Park and keen prices that stay the same year-round. Breakfast is good, too: there’s a blackboard of specials to choose from and the dining room has gingham-check tablecloths and a crackling wood burner.

icon-top-choiceoCottage in the WoodHOTEL£££

(icon-phonegif%017687-78409; www.thecottageinthewood.co.uk; Braithwaite; d £130-220; icon-hoursgifhrestaurant 6.30-9pm Tue-Sat; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

For a secluded spoil, head for this out-of-the-way bolthole, on the road to Whinlatter Forest, in a completely modernised coaching inn. Elegant rooms survey woods and countryside: the Mountain View rooms overlook the Skiddaw Range, but we liked the super-private Attic Suite and the Garden Room, with its wood floors and wet-room. The restaurant’s fantastic, too (set dinner menu £45).

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoFellpackCAFE£

(icon-phonegif%017687-71177; www.fellpack.co.uk; 19 Lake Rd; lunches £4-8; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Wed-Mon, 6-9pm Thu-Sat)

This on-trend cafe specialises in ‘fell pots’ – a Lakeland-style Buddha bowl, incorporating an all-in-one meal such as sweet potato and curry, smoked macaroni and peas, or braised chilli beef, all freshly made and flavour-packed. Flatbreads and baguettes are offered for lunch to go. The owners are full of enthusiasm and the food is zingy and imaginative. We like it. It’s also open three nights a week for dinner.

icon-top-choiceoLingholm KitchenCAFE£

(icon-phonegif%017687-71206; www.thelingholmkitchen.co.uk; mains £7-9; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

What a setting this splendid cafe has: in a delightful walled garden on the Lingholme Estate, with a 30m glass wall that presents cinematic views of Skiddaw, plus a dainty old greenhouse. For lunch, expect modern brunch dishes such as chickpea fritters, baked eggs, pork croquettes and (of course) avocado on toast.

Jasper’s Coffee HouseCAFE£

(icon-phonegif%017687-73366; 20 Station St; sandwiches from £4, dishes £6-8; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Thu, 9am-5pm Fri-Sun; icon-petgif#)

Dog fans rejoice: this popular Keswick cafe is nuts about canines. Dishes here are named after dogs of legend (The Muttley, The Old Yeller, The Huckleberry Hound), there are doggie prints on the walls, and naturally, canine companions are welcome. Food-wise, it’s standard brunch-lunch fare: pittas, sausage rolls, wraps and sandwiches and cooked breakfasts.

Pheasant InnPUB FOOD££

(icon-phonegif%017687-76234; www.the-pheasant.co.uk; Bassenthwaite Lake; mains £13.50-21, restaurant dinner menu £45; icon-hoursgifhrestaurant 7-9pm Wed-Sat, noon-2.30pm Sun, bistro noon-2.30pm & 6-9pm)

A short drive along Bassenthwaite Lake is this fine-dining pub. Hunting prints and pewter tankards cover the old bar, stocked with vintage whiskies and Lakeland ales, and the two restaurants (informal bistro and very formal restaurant) serve superior country food. The afternoon tea’s done in the proper English fashion too, served on a tiered cake stand with scones and cucumber sandwiches.

Square OrangeCAFE££

(icon-phonegif%017687-73888; www.thesquareorange.co.uk; 20 St John’s St; icon-hoursgifh10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

This lively cafe-bar seems to have become everyone’s favourite hangout in Keswick – thanks no doubt to its superb thin-based pizzas, excellent wine and craft beer selection and a regular programme of live gigs. With its big wooden bar and packed-in tables, it feels rather continental – and the coffee is hands-down the best in Keswick.

Morrel’sBRITISH££

(icon-phonegif%017687-72666; www.morrels.co.uk; Lake Rd; 3-course menu £21.95, mains £12.50-22.50; icon-hoursgifh5.30-9pm Tue-Sun)

Probably the best option in Keswick for a sit-down dinner, Morrel’s is an attractive restaurant majoring in British bistro-style food. Glossy wood, spotlights and glass give it a refined feel.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Dog & GunPUB

(icon-phonegif%017687-73463; 2 Lake Rd; icon-hoursgifh11am-11pm)

Benches, beams, hearths, rugs: the old Dog is the picture of a Lakeland pub. Look out for Thirst Rescue ale, which donates part of its proceeds to the Keswick Mountain Rescue Team.

Cafe-Bar 26BAR

(icon-phonegif%017687-80863; 26 Lake Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-11pm Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun)

A cosy corner wine bar that also serves good lunches and evening tapas (£4 to £10).

7Shopping

icon-top-choiceoGeorge FisherSPORTS & OUTDOORS

(icon-phonegif%017687-72178; www.georgefisher.co.uk; 2 Borrowdale Rd; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)

Quite possibly the most famous outdoors shop in the Lake District, founded in 1967 and still the place where discerning hikers go to buy their gear (even if it is a bit more expensive than the chains). There are three floors of boots, tents and gear, and the boot-fitting service is legendarily thorough.

8Information

Keswick Tourist Office (icon-phonegif%017687-72645; www.keswick.org; Moot Hall, Market Pl; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-4.30pm; icon-wifigifW) The town’s tourist office is well run and the staff are very informed. It also sells discounted tickets for the Keswick Launch, and has free wi-fi.

8Getting There & Away

The Keswick & Honister Dayrider buys unlimited travel on buses in the Keswick area, including on the 77 and 78 buses to Borrowdale and Buttermere (if you’re returning the same day, it’s also bizarrely cheaper than buying a return). All buses leave from and arrive at the bus station.

Useful buses from Keswick:

555/556 Lakeslink Hourly to Grasmere (£8.30, 40 minutes), Ambleside (£8.80, 45 minutes), Windermere (£9.80, one hour) and Kendal (£10.60, 1½ hours).

77/77A Circular route (five to seven daily) from Keswick via Portinscale, Catbells, Grange, Seatoller, Honister Pass, Buttermere, Lorton and Whinlatter.

78 (at least hourly Monday to Friday, half-hourly weekends) The main Borrowdale bus, with stops at Lodore, Grange, Rosthwaite and Seatoller.

Borrowdale

icon-phonegif%017687 / Pop 417

With their patchwork of craggy hills, broad fields, tinkling streams and drystone walls, the side-by-side valleys of Borrowdale and Buttermere are many people’s idea of the quintessential Lakeland landscape. Once a centre for mineral mining (especially slate, coal and graphite), this is walkers’ country these days and, apart from the odd rickety barn or puttering tractor, there’s precious little to spoil the view.

South of Keswick, the B5289 tracks Derwentwater into the heart of Borrowdale, winding past the small farming villages of Grange-in-Borrowdale, Rosthwaite and Stonethwaite.

1Sights & Activities

Watendlath TarnLAKE

This National Trust–owned tarn is reached via a turn-off on the B5285 south of Keswick. On the way the road passes over one of the Lake District’s most photographed packhorse crossings at Ashness Bridge. Parking at the tarn is free for NT members, but the road is narrow and has few passing places, so it’s more pleasant to walk up in summer.

Lodore FallsWATERFALL

At the southern end of Derwentwater, this famous waterfall featured in a poem by Robert Southey, but it’s only worth visiting after a good spell of rain. It’s in the grounds of the Lodore Hotel; there’s an honesty box for donations.

Bowder StoneNATURAL FEATURE

A mile south from Grange, a turn-off leads up to the geological curiosity known as the Bowder Stone, a 1700-tonnes lump of rock left behind by a retreating glacier. A small stepladder leads to the top of the rock.

Platty+BOATING

(icon-phonegif%017687-76572; www.plattyplus.co.uk; kayaks & canoes per hour £8-15)

Based at the Lodore Boat Landings at the southern end of Derwentwater, this company hires out kayaks, canoes, rowing boats and sailing dinghies. It also runs instruction courses.

4Sleeping

Seatoller FarmCAMPSITE£

(icon-phonegif%017687-77232; www.seatollerfarm.co.uk; adult/child £7/3; icon-hoursgifhEaster-Oct)

A lovely, tucked-away site on a 500-year-old farm near Seatoller with a choice of riverside or woodland pitches. B&B rooms (double £75 to £90) are offered in the farmhouse.

Borrowdale YHAHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%0845 371 9624; www.yha.org.uk; Longthwaite; dm £15-30; icon-hoursgifhFeb-Dec; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

This friendly hostel makes a super, outdoorsy base for forays around Borrowdale. It’s in a lovely spot next to a babbling brook, surrounded by gardens and fells. Part timber-clad, it has the feel of a ski chalet with convivial dorms, a big kitchen and lounge, table tennis and snooker tables as well as a wildlife area outside.

Derwentwater Independent HostelHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%017687-77246; www.derwentwater.org; Barrow House; dm £24, s & d £60, tr £66-75, q £83-96; icon-parkgifpicon-internetgifi)

Built as a 19th-century mansion, this grand Grade II–listed house is one of Britain’s most architecturally ostentatious hostels. Previously YHA-owned, now private, it’s a thing of beauty: many rooms have original features such as plasterwork and fireplaces. The 7-hectare grounds encompass an artificial waterfall.

icon-top-choiceoLangstrath InnB&B££

(icon-phonegif%017687-77239; www.thelangstrath.com; Stonethwaite; d £114-140; icon-hoursgifhrestaurant noon-2.30pm & 6-8.30pm Tue-Sun; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

This simple country inn makes one of the best little bases in Borrowdale. Its eight rooms are snug and simple, with crimson throws and the occasional roof beam to add character – but it’s the views that really sell the place. Hearty, unpretentious food (dinner mains £13.25) and ales from Hawkshead Brewery are served in the restaurant.

Glaramara HotelHOTEL££

(icon-phonegif%017687-77222; www.glaramarahouse.co.uk; Seatoller; s £59, d £74-118; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifWicon-petgif#)

If your budget won’t stretch to one of Borrowdale’s plush country hotels, this great-value, activity-focused place makes a good alternative. The decor is corporate (pine-effect furniture, no-frills furnishings), but the location can’t be faulted: on the doorstep of Honister Pass, surrounded by fells and greenery. The hotel has its own outdoor activities centre for ghyll scrambling, rock climbing, mine exploring and more.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 77/77A (from £3.10, seven daily Monday to Saturday, five on Sunday) makes a circular route from Keswick via Portinscale, the trailhead for Catbells and all the Borrowdale villages, then heads over Honister Pass, through Buttermere and Lorton, over the Whinlatter Pass and back to Keswick.

Bus 78 (£6.20 to £8.30, at least hourly, half-hourly on weekends from July to August) shuttles through Borrowdale as far as Seatoller, then heads back the same way to Keswick.

If you’re planning on making a return journey the same day, it’s nearly always cheaper to buy the Keswick & Honister Dayrider than a return fare.

Buttermere

icon-phonegif%017687 / Pop 121

Stretching 1.5 miles northwest of Honister Pass, the deep bowl of Buttermere was gouged out by a steamroller glacier and backed by a string of impressive peaks and emerald-green hills. The valley’s twin lakes, Buttermere and Crummock Water, were once joined but became separated by glacial silt and rockfall.

The little village of Buttermere sits halfway between the two and provides a wonderfully cosy base for exploring the rest of the valley and the many nearby fells, including Haystacks (597m), the favourite mountain and the last resting place of the patron saint of Lakeland walkers, the author Alfred Wainwright.

4Sleeping & Eating

icon-top-choiceoButtermere YHAHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%0845 371 9508; www.yha.org.uk; dm £13-32; icon-hoursgifhmid-Mar–Oct, reception 8.30-10am & 5-10.30pm; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

Perched in a perfect position on the Honister–Buttermere road, this excellent slate-fronted hostel (once a hotel) has rooms looking out across the lake. The decor is smart, colourful and surprisingly modern, and there’s a great cafe-kitchen and plenty of four- and six-bed dorms. There’s also space to pitch a tent during summer holidays.

Syke FarmCAMPSITE£

(icon-phonegif%017687-70222; www.sykefarmcampsite.com; adult/child £8/4; icon-hoursgifhEaster-Oct)

Set on a bumpy riverside site, Syke Farm is back-to-basics camping, but you’ll wake up to views of Red Pike, High Stile and Haystacks. Check in at the farm shop in the village first and don’t forget to sample some of its homemade ice cream.

icon-top-choiceoKirkstile InnPUB FOOD££

(icon-phonegif%01900-85219; www.kirkstile.com; mains £11.50-15.95)

A finer country pub you could not hope to find. Hidden away near the little lake of Loweswater, a mile or so north of Buttermere, the Kirkstile is a joy: crackling fires, oak beams, worn carpets, wooden bar and all. It’s particularly known for its award-winning ales (try the Loweswater Gold).

Rooms (singles £85 to £105, doubles £117 to £137) are quaint; some have views across Lorton Vale.

Bridge HotelPUB FOOD££

(icon-phonegif%017687-70252; www.bridge-hotel.com; mains £10-16; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

As the name suggests, this venerable hostelry is right beside Buttermere’s village bridge. There’s standard pub food in the bar, or more upmarket fare in the smart-casual restaurant. Frilly rooms (singles from £84.50, doubles £169 to £189) and an antique ambience define the old Bridge.

Fish InnPUB FOOD££

(icon-phonegif%017687-70253; www.fishinnbuttermere.co.uk; mains £8-16; icon-parkgifp)

This whitewashed inn (doubles £90 to £125) once employed the 18th-century beauty known as the ‘Maid of Buttermere’, but these days it’s just a welcoming locals’ pub serving basic staples such as lasagne and battered haddock, washed down with ales from several local breweries.

DON’T MISS

HONISTER PASS

From Borrowdale, a narrow, perilously steep road snakes up the fellside to Honister Pass, home to the last working slate mine in the UK. Though you can still pick up slate souvenirs in the on-site shop, these days the Honister Slate Mine (icon-phonegif%017687-77230; www.honister.com; mine tour adult/child £14.50/8.50, all-day pass incl mine tour & classic/extreme via ferrata £56.50/64; icon-hoursgifhtours 10.30am, 12.30pm & 3.30pm Mar-Oct) has diversified with a range of adventure activities, ranging from subterranean tours to thrilling via ferrata (classic route £40, extreme incl Infinity Bridge £45, all day pass incl mine tour & classic/extreme via ferrata £56.50/64) walks. An all-day pass covering all activities costs £56.50/43.50 per adult/child.

8Getting There & Away

Bus 77/77A (£6.20, five to seven daily) serves Buttermere and Honister Pass from Keswick. For return journeys the same day, save a bit of cash by buying the Keswick & Honister Dayrider.

2Driving Tour
Borrowdale & Buttermere

21-borrowdale-dt-eng10

START KESWICK

END KESWICK

LENGTH 28 MILES; THREE TO FOUR HOURS

This is one of the Lakes’ most beautiful road trips, a perfect day trip out of Keswick.

Begin with breakfast in 1Keswick, then head along the B5289 into Borrowdale. First stop is 2Lodore Falls, a pretty cascade at the southern end of Derwentwater. Next, detour to the little hamlet of 3Grange-in-Borrowdale, where a trail leads up the slate-strewn sides of Castle Crag, a small fell with great views over Borrowdale.

From Grange carry on to the huge boulder known as the 4Bowder Stone, shifted into position by the long-gone glacier that carved out the Borrowdale Valley. Pootle on to 5Rosthwaite for tea and cake at the Flock In Tea-Room, or continue to 6Seatoller for lunch.

In the afternoon tackle the steep crawl up to 7Honister Pass, where you can pick up some slate souvenirs, take a tour into the depths of the old slate mine or venture out onto the hair-raising via ferrata.

From here the road drops down into the beautiful valley of 8Buttermere. Spot the zigzag peaks of High Stile, Haystacks and Red Pike looming on your left-hand side over the lake, stop off for a drink at the Fish Inn and remember to pay your respects to hiker and author Alfred Wainwright inside St James’ Church.

Continue along the shore of Crummock Water past 9Loweswater, where you could make an optional but very worthwhile detour via the excellent Kirkstile Inn. When you reach aLow Lorton, a right-hand turn carries you over Whinlatter Pass to bWhinlatter Forest Park.

There are a couple of great options for dinner on your way back to Keswick, such as the cCottage in the Wood just before Braithwaite, or the traditional Pheasant Inn on the shores of Bassenthwaite Lake.

Ullswater & Around

icon-phonegif%017684

After Windermere, the second-largest lake in the Lake District is Ullswater, stretching for 7.5 miles between Pooley Bridge at the northern end and Glenridding and Patterdale at the southern end. Carved out by a long-extinct glacier, the deep valley in which the lake sits is flanked by an impressive string of fells, most notably the razor ridge of Helvellyn, Cumbria’s third-highest mountain at 950m.

The lake’s eastern shore is where the three main villages are located. The remote west side is well off the beaten track, and great for crowd-free hiking around the village of Howtown and the picturesque valley of Martindale.

The villages around Ullswater were badly hit in the 2015 floods. You’ll see major flood defence works in Glenridding, while the eponymous bridge in Pooley Bridge was swept away – there’s a temporary one in place for now, with plans ongoing to replace it with a permanent flood-resistant structure.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoHelvellynHIKING

Along with Scafell Pike, this challenging hike is the one everyone wants to do. The classic ascent takes in the twin ridges of Striding and Swirral Edge, which are spectacular but very exposed and involve some scrambling and dizzyingly steep drops on either side – if you’re at all nervous of heights, Helvellyn is not the fell for you.

The usual routes climb up through Glenridding or Patterdale. Always check the weather forecast and take all the necessary supplies.

Ullswater ‘Steamers’BOATING

(icon-phonegif%017684-82229; www.ullswater-steamers.co.uk; cruise all piers pass adult/child £15.95/6.95)

Ullswater’s historic steamers are a memorable way to explore the lake. The various vessels include the stately Lady of the Lake, launched in 1877 and supposedly the world’s oldest working passenger boat. The boats run east–west from Pooley Bridge to Glenridding via Howtown; there are nine daily sailings in summer, three in winter.

Gowbarrow Park & Aira ForcePARK, WATERFALL

(NT) icon-freeF

This rolling park stretches out across the lakeshore between Pooley Bridge and Glenridding. Well-marked paths lead up to the impressive 20m waterfall of Aira Force. Another waterfall, High Force, is further up the hillside. South of Gowbarrow Park is Glencoyne Bay, where the springtime daffodils inspired William Wordsworth to pen one of his most famous poems.

4Sleeping

Quiet SiteCAMPSITE£

(icon-phonegif%07768-727016; www.thequietsite.co.uk; campsites £25-44, pods £35-65, hobbit holes £65-100; icon-hoursgifhyear-round; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

Ecofriendly campsite on the fells above Ullswater, with pre-erected tents and ecopods available as well as ‘hobbit holes’ (timber-lined cabins built into the hillside). Camping is very pricey in summer, but there’s plenty of space, and the views are outstanding.

Helvellyn YHAHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%0845 371 9742; www.yha.org.uk; Greenside; dm £13-30; icon-hoursgifhEaster-Oct)

This back-of-beyond hostel is a favourite of hikers looking to get an early start on Helvellyn. It’s in an old miner’s cottage about a 900m hike up from the valley. Dorms are small and facilities are basic, but meals are provided by hostel staff. There’s even a bar.

Patterdale YHAHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%0845 371 9337; www.yha.org.uk; Patterdale; dm £13-30; icon-hoursgifhEaster-Oct, reception 7.30-10am & 3-11pm)

This 1970s hostel lacks the heritage of some of the Lakeland YHAs, but it has a great location by the lake and all the usual YHA trappings (kitchen, cafe, TV lounge) – as long as you don’t mind the rather institutional architecture.

Old Water ViewB&B££

(icon-phonegif%017684-82175; www.oldwaterview.co.uk; Patterdale; d £98; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

Patterdale has several B&Bs, but this one’s the pick. It’s a simple place focusing on the essentials: friendly service, comfy rooms and good value. The split-level Bothy room is ideal for families, with attic beds for the kids, while Little Gem overlooks a stream and Place Fell was a favourite of Alfred Wainwright (his signature is on the wall).

icon-top-choiceoAnother Place, The LakeBOUTIQUE HOTEL£££

(icon-phonegif%017684-86442; www.another.place; Watermillock; r £230-290, f £345-385; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifWicon-swimkgifsicon-petgif#)

Acquired by the owners of Cornwall’s Watergate Bay Hotel, the former Rampsbeck Hotel has been reinvented as one of the Lakes’ most luxurious, family-friendly, activity-focused getaways. A striking new wing has added an infinity pool and contemporary rooms – rooms in the old house feel more traditional. There’s a restaurant, bar, well-stocked library and lakefront lawns, and activities including SUP, kayaking and wild swimming.

5Eating

Granny Dowbekin’sCAFE£

(icon-phonegif%017684-86453; www.grannydowbekins.co.uk; Pooley Bridge; mains £6-12; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm)

For a filling all-day brekkie, a ploughman’s lunch, chunky sandwich or a slice of something naughty and cake-shaped, this attractive cafe in Pooley Bridge is a favourite option. The homemade ‘gingerbridge’ makes a yummy souvenir.

FellbitesCAFE££

(icon-phonegif%017684-82781; Glenridding; lunch mains £3.95-9.95, dinner mains £12.50-18; icon-hoursgifh9am-8.30pm Thu-Tue, to 5.30pm Wed)

This cafe beside the main car park in Glenridding has something to fill you up at any time of day: generous fry-ups for breakfast; soups, pulled-pork burgers and rarebits for lunch; lamb shanks and duck breast for dinner. It’s honest, no-fuss grub.

1863BISTRO££

(icon-phonegif%017684-86334; www.1863ullswater.co.uk; High St, Pooley Bridge; mains £13.50-22.50; icon-hoursgifhdinner 6-9pm, bar 2-10pm)

A classy new addition to Pooley Bridge’s dining scene, overseen by head chef Phil Corrie, who has a fondness for the classics but is abreast of modern tastes, too – so you get dishes like Goosnargh Chicken with morels and truffled potato, or mead-glazed duck with sweet damson jam.

There are rooms upstairs, too (doubles £95 to £150), showcasing some adventurous wallpaper choices.

8Information

Lake District National Park Ullswater Information Centre (icon-phonegif%017684-82414; ullswatertic@lake-district.gov.uk; Glenridding; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, to 3.30pm weekends Nov-Mar)

8Getting There & Away

Bus 508 travels from Penrith to Glenridding and Patterdale (£5.50, nine daily). Five buses continue over Kirkstone Pass to Windermere.

The Ullswater Bus-and-Boat Combo ticket (adult/child/family £16/9/34) includes a day’s travel on bus 508 with a return trip on an Ullswater Steamer; buy the ticket on the bus.

Kendal

icon-phonegif%015395 / Pop 28,586

Technically Kendal isn’t in the Lake District, but it’s a major gateway town. Often known as the ‘Auld Grey Town’ thanks to the sombre grey stone used for many of its buildings, Kendal is a bustling shopping centre with some good restaurants, a funky arts centre and intriguing museums. But it’ll forever be synonymous in many people’s minds with its famous mint cake, a staple item in the nation’s hiking packs ever since Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay munched it during their ascent of Everest in 1953.

1Sights

Abbot Hall Art GalleryGALLERY

(icon-phonegif%01539-722464; www.abbothall.org.uk; adult/child £7/free, joint ticket with Museum of Lakeland Life & Industry £9; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)

Kendal’s fine-art gallery houses one of the northwest’s best collections of 18th- and 19th-century art. It’s especially strong on portraiture and Lakeland landscapes: look out for works by Constable, John Ruskin and local boy George Romney, who was born in Dalton-in-Furness in 1734 and became a sought-after portraitist, as well as a key figure in the ‘Kendal School’.

Kendal MuseumMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%01539-815597; www.kendalmuseum.org.uk; Station Rd; £2; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Tue-Sat)

Founded in 1796 by the inveterate Victorian collector William Todhunter, this mixed-bag museum features everything from stuffed beasts and transfixed butterflies to medieval coin hoards. There’s also a reconstruction of the office of Alfred Wainwright, who served as honorary curator at the museum from 1945 to 1974: look out for his well-chewed pipe and knapsack.

Museum of Lakeland Life & IndustryMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%01539-722464; www.lakelandmuseum.org.uk; adult/child £5/free, joint ticket with Abbot Hall Art Gallery £9; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat Mar-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Feb)

Directly opposite Abbot Hall, this museum recreates various scenes from Lakeland life during the 18th and 19th centuries, including a farmhouse parlour, a Lakeland kitchen, an apothecary and the study of Arthur Ransome, author of Swallows and Amazons – look out for some of his original sketchbooks.

Levens HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(icon-phonegif%015395-60321; www.levenshall.co.uk; house & gardens adult/child £13.90/5, gardens only £9.90/4; icon-hoursgifhhouse noon-4pm, gardens 10am-5pm Sun-Thu Mar-Oct)

This Elizabethan manor is built around a mid-13th-century fortified pele tower, and fine Jacobean furniture litters its interior, although the real draw is the 17th-century topiary garden – a surreal riot of pyramids, swirls, curls, pompoms and peacocks straight out of Alice in Wonderland.

Sizergh CastleCASTLE

(NT; icon-phonegif%015395-60070; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/sizergh; adult/child £11.50/5.75, gardens only £7.50/3.75; icon-hoursgifhhouse noon-4pm Apr-Oct, gardens 10am-5pm)

Three-and-a-half miles south of Kendal along the A591, this castle is the feudal seat of the Strickland family. Set around a pele tower, its finest asset is the lavish wood panelling on display in the Inlaid Chamber, as well as a huge 650-hectare estate encompassing lakes, orchards, woods and pastureland.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

ENNERDALE

If you really want to leave the outside world behind, the remote valley of Ennerdale is definitely the place. Just to the north of Wasdale, this valley and its namesake lake were once home to slate mines and large timber plantations, but these are slowly being removed and the valley is being returned to nature as part of the Wild Ennerdale (www.wildennerdale.co.uk) project.

Needless to say, the valley is paradise if you prefer your trails quiet. Several popular routes head over the fells to Wasdale, while walking towards Buttermere takes you past the Black Sail YHA (icon-phonegif%0845-371 9680; www.yha.org.uk; dm £35; icon-hoursgifhmid-Mar–Oct, check-in 5-9pm) icon-sustainableS, a marvellously remote hostel inside a shepherd’s bothy. Much loved by mountaineers and hikers, it’s become a YHA landmark. Space is very limited, so make sure you book ahead.

4Sleeping

Kendal HostelHOSTEL£

(icon-phonegif%01539-724066; www.kendalhostel.com; 118-120 Highgate; dm/d £20/40; icon-hoursgifhreception open 5-8pm; icon-internetgifiicon-wifigifW)

An ex-YHA, this basic hostel has 14 rooms variously sleeping two to 14 people in mixed and single-sex dorms. Spread over four floors, it’s a friendly place. There’s a shared kitchen, lounge and a free pool table on the ground floor, plus lockers for storage (you might need your own padlock). It’s next door to the Brewery Arts Centre.

Sonata Guest HouseB&B££

(icon-phonegif%01539-732290; www.sonataguesthouse.co.uk; 19 Burneside Rd; d £85-90; icon-wifigifW)

Nothing too swish at this B&B in a Kendal-typical grey-stone terraced house, but it’s cosy enough with feminine rooms, floral wallpapers and nice little touches such as goose-down pillows and well-stocked tea trays. Parking is a pain.

Lyth Valley Country InnHOTEL£££

(icon-phonegif%015395-68295; www.lythvalley.com; Lyth; d £150-200, ste £240-300; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

It’s seven miles west of Kendal, but there’s a reason to head out so far – this hotel sits in a gorgeous spot overlooking the little-visited Lyth Valley, famous locally for its damson plums. Rooms are really attractive, with solid wooden furniture and patches of exposed brickwork (we liked the quirky names too, such as Hopping Hare and Quacking Duck).

The oak-panelled restaurant (mains £13.95 to £18.95) is high quality.

5Eating

Brew BrothersCAFE£

(icon-phonegif%01539-722237; www.brew-brothers.co.uk; 69 Highgate; mains £8.50-10; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

The hipster cafe comes to Kendal at this new number on Highgate. With its scruffy wood furniture and black-aproned baristas, it’s got the aesthetic down, but its owners are Lakeland through and through – they previously ran a cafe in Windermere. Go for smashed avocado and poached eggs for brekkie, then for lunch wolf down a hot-smoked-salmon sandwich. Yum.

Yard 46CAFE£

(icon-phonegif%07585-320522; www.yard46.co.uk; Branthwaite Brow; lunches £3-8; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)

Kendal is well stocked with cafes, but this gem is well worth seeking out. It’s down a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it alleyway, with a little courtyard and an old whitewashed building with cruck-framed attic dining room. Delicious soups, imaginative salads and yummy cakes, plus unusual options such as pan con tomate (tomato bruschetta) and veggie brunch baps with a fried duck’s egg.

Baba GanoushDELI£

(icon-phonegif%01539-738210; www.baba-ganoush.co.uk; Finkle St; mains £5-9; icon-hoursgifh10.30am-3pm Tue-Sat)

Down a side alley, this Mediterranean-inspired cafe serves up delicious lunches of falafels, lamb stews, veggie meze and Moroccan tagines, plus a big range of salads. It’s recently moved a little way down the street to give more space for diners.

icon-top-choiceoPunch Bowl InnPUB FOOD££

(icon-phonegif%015395-68237; www.the-punchbowl.co.uk; Crosthwaite; mains £15.95-24.50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-4pm & 5.30-8.30pm; icon-parkgifp)

If you don’t mind a drive, this renowned gastropub in the village of Crosthwaite has long been known for its top-notch food. Whitewashed outside, carefully modernised inside, it’s a cosy, inviting space to dine. Chef Scott Fairweather’s superb food blends classic dishes with cheffy ingredients (oyster mousse, potato croquettes, pea fricassée, salsify).

The rooms (£135 to £320) are lovely, too: they’re all different, but the nicest ones have reclaimed beams, sloping eaves, slate-floored bathrooms and his-and-hers claw-foot tubs.

icon-top-choiceoThe Moon HighgateBISTRO££

(icon-phonegif%01539-729254; www.themoonhighgate.com; 129 Highgate; lunch £6-12, dinner £17-21; icon-hoursgifh11.30am-2.15pm Tue-Sat & 5.30-9.15pm Tue-Fri, 6-9.30pm Sat)

Now run by prodigiously talented chef Leon Whitehead, this smart bistro takes its cue from the seasons and the pick of Cumbrian produce. Classic flavours sit alongside surprises: watercress panna cotta, or hen’s egg with onion broth. Dishes are beautifully plated, veggie choice is good and the uncluttered space is a winner. The town’s top table, no question.

3Entertainment

Brewery Arts CentreTHEATRE, CINEMA

(icon-phonegif%01539-725133; www.breweryarts.co.uk; Highgate)

A cracking arts centre with a gallery, cafe, theatre and two cinemas, hosting the latest films as well as music, theatre, dance and much more.

7Shopping

icon-top-choiceoLow Sizergh BarnFOOD

(icon-phonegif%015395-60426; www.lowsizerghbarn.co.uk; icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm)

A prodigious selection of Lakeland goodies are available at this farm shop, just outside Kendal on the A590. There’s also a farm trail and woodland walk to follow if the weather’s nice, and you can watch the cows being milked – look out for the raw-milk vending machine beside the shop entrance. Only in Cumbria!

8Getting There & Away

The train line from Windermere runs to Kendal (£5.90, 15 minutes, hourly) en route to Oxenholme.

Bus 555/556 Regular bus (half-hourly Monday to Friday, hourly at weekends) to Windermere (£6.50, 30 minutes), Ambleside (£7.60, 40 minutes) and Grasmere (£8.80, 1¼ hours).

Bus 106 To Penrith (£11.30, 80 minutes, one or two daily Monday to Friday).

Cumbrian Coast

icon-phonegif%01229

While the central lakes and fells pull in a never-ending stream of visitors, surprisingly few ever make the trek west to explore Cumbria’s coastline. And that’s a shame. While it might not compare to the wild grandeur of Northumberland, or the rugged splendour of Scotland’s shores, Cumbria’s coast is well worth exploring – a bleakly beautiful landscape of long sandy bays, grassy headlands, salt marshes and seaside villages stretching all the way from Morecambe Bay to the shores of the Solway Coast. There’s an important seabird reserve at St Bees Head and the majestic grounds of Holker Hall are well worth a wander.

Historically, Cumbria’s coast served the local mining, quarrying and shipping industries and Barrow-in-Furness remains a major shipbuilding centre. More controversial is the nuclear plant of Sellafield, a major employer but still dividing opinion half a century on from its inception.

1Sights & Activities

icon-top-choiceoRavenglass & Eskdale RailwayRAIL

(icon-phonegif%01229-717171; www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk; adult/child/family 24hr pass £15/9/44.95; icon-familygifc)

Affectionately known as La’al Ratty, this pocket-sized railway was built to ferry iron ore from the Eskdale mines to the coast. These days it’s one of Cumbria’s most beloved family attractions, with miniature steam trains that chug for 7 miles through the Eskdale valley between the coastal town of Ravenglass and the village of Dalegarth, and several stations in between.

There are seven to 14 trains a day depending on the season; fares are cheaper outside summer. Dogs (£1.50) are welcome on board, and you can take bikes (£4), but they have to be booked in advance. You also get a 50% discount on trips on Ullswater Steamers.

icon-top-choiceoHolker HallHISTORIC BUILDING

(icon-phonegif%015395-58328; www.holker.co.uk; adult/child £12.50/free; icon-hoursgifhhouse 11am-4pm, grounds 10.30am-5pm Wed-Sun Mar-Oct)

Three miles east of Cartmel on the B5278, Holker Hall has been the family seat of the Cavendish family for nigh on four centuries. Though parts of it date from the 16th century, the house was almost entirely rebuilt following a devastating fire in 1871. It’s a typically ostentatious Victorian affair, covered with mullioned windows, gables and copper-topped turrets outside and filled with a warren of lavishly over-the-top rooms inside.

Among the highlights are the drawing room, packed with Chippendale furniture and historic oil paintings, and the library, containing an antique microscope belonging to Henry Cavendish (discoverer of nitric acid) and more than 3500 antique books (some of which are fakes, designed to conceal light switches when the house was converted to electric power in 1911). The showstopper is the Long Gallery, notable for its plasterwork ceiling and fine English furniture – look for the 19th-century sphinx-legged table and a wonderful walnut cabinet inlaid with ivory and rosewood.

Outside, Holker’s grounds sprawl for more than 10 hectares, encompassing a rose garden, a woodland, ornamental fountains and a 22m-high lime tree.

There’s also a food hall that stocks produce from the estate, including two renowned products: venison and salt marsh lamb.

St Bees HeadWILDLIFE RESERVE

(RSPB; stbees.head@rspb.org.uk)

Five-and-a-half miles south of Whitehaven and 1½ miles north of the tiny town of St Bees, this wind-battered headland is one of Cumbria’s most important reserves for nesting seabirds. Depending on the season, species nesting here include fulmars, kittiwakes and razorbills, as well as Britain’s only population of resident black guillemots. There are more than 2 miles of cliff paths to explore.

Muncaster CastleCASTLE

(icon-phonegif%01229-717614; www.muncaster.co.uk; adult/child £14.50/7.30; icon-hoursgifhgardens & owl centre 10.30am-5pm, castle noon-4pm Sun-Fri)

This crenellated castle, 1.5 miles east of Ravenglass, was originally built around a 14th-century pele tower, constructed to resist Reiver raids. Home to the Pennington family for seven centuries, the castle’s architectural highlights are its great hall and octagonal library, and outside you’ll find an ornamental maze and splendid grounds. The castle is also home to a hawk and owl centre, which stages several flying displays a day. There’s a 15% discount for booking online.

Muncaster is also known for its numerous ghosts: keep your eyes peeled for the Muncaster Boggle and a malevolent jester known as Tom Fool (hence ‘tomfoolery’).

Laurel & Hardy MuseumMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%01229-582292; www.laurel-and-hardy.co.uk; Brogden St, Ulverston; adult/child £5/2.50; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Easter-Oct, closed Mon & Wed rest of year)

Founded by avid Laurel and Hardy collector Bill Cubin back in 1983, this madcap museum in Ulverston (the birthplace of Stan Laurel) has new premises inside the town’s old Roxy cinema. It’s crammed floor-to-ceiling with cinematic memorabilia, from original posters to film props, and there’s a shoebox-sized cinema showing back-to-back Laurel and Hardy classics. Now run by Bill’s grandson, it’s a must for movie buffs.

DON’T MISS

CARTMEL

Tiny Cartmel is known for three things: its 12th-century priory (icon-hoursgifh9am-5.30pm May-Oct, to 3.30pm Nov-Apr) icon-freeF, its small racecourse and its world-famous sticky toffee pudding, sold at the Cartmel Village Shop (icon-phonegif%015395-36280; www.cartmelvillageshop.co.uk; 1 The Square; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4.30pm Sun).

More recently it’s become known as the home of chef Simon Rogan (dubbed Cumbria’s answer to Heston Blumenthal). His flagship restaurant, L’Enclume (icon-phonegif%015395-36362; www.lenclume.co.uk; Cavendish St; set lunch £59, lunch & dinner menu £155; icon-hoursgifhnoon-1.30pm & 6.30-8.30pm Tue-Sun), showcases his boundary-pushing cuisine and madcap presentation as well as his passion for foraged ingredients.

He also runs a less formal bistro, Rogan & Company (icon-phonegif%015395-35917; www.roganandcompany.co.uk; The Square; 2-/3-course set lunch £20/26, mains £18-25; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 6-9pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 12.15-3.15pm Sun), across the village. Bookings are essential for both.

8Getting There & Away

The Furness and Cumbrian Coast railway lines loop 120 miles from Lancaster to Carlisle, stopping at the coastal resorts of Grange, Ulverston, Ravenglass, Whitehaven and Workington. The Cumbria Coast Day Ranger (adult/child £20.20/10.10) covers a day’s unlimited travel on the line and works out cheaper than a return journey from Carlisle or Lancaster.

Northern & Eastern Cumbria

Many visitors speed through the northern and eastern reaches of Cumbria in a headlong dash for the Lake District, but it’s worth taking the time to venture inland from the national park. It might not have the big-name fells and chocolate-box villages, but it’s full of interest, with traditional towns, crumbling castles, abandoned abbeys and sweeping moors set alongside the magnificent Roman engineering project of Hadrian’s Wall.

Carlisle

icon-phonegif%01228 / Pop 75,306

Carlisle isn’t Britain’s prettiest city, but it has history and heritage aplenty. Precariously perched on the frontier between England and Scotland, in the area once ominously dubbed the ‘Debatable Lands’, Cumbria’s capital is a city with a notoriously stormy past: sacked by the Vikings, pillaged by the Scots and plundered by the Border Reivers, the city has been on the front line of England’s defences for more than 1000 years.

Reminders of the past are evident in its great crimson castle and cathedral, built from the same rosy-red sandstone as most of the city’s houses. On English St, you can also see two massive circular towers that once flanked the city’s gateway.

The closest section of Hadrian’s Wall begins at nearby Brampton.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoCarlisle CastleCASTLE

(EH; icon-phonegif%01228-591922; www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/carlisle-castle; Castle Way; adult/child £8/4.80, combined ticket with Cumbria’s Museum of Military Life £9.20/5.15; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar)

Carlisle’s brooding, rust-red castle lurks on the north side of the city. Founded around a Celtic and Roman stronghold, the castle’s Norman keep was added in 1092 by William Rufus, and later refortified by Henry II, Edward I and Henry VIII (who added the supposedly cannon-proof towers). From the battlements, the stirring views stretch as far as the Scottish borders. The castle also houses Cumbria’s Museum of Military Life (icon-phonegif%01228-532774; adult/child £4.50/2.50, combined ticket with Carlisle Castle £9.20/5.15; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 5pm Sat-Thu Nov-Mar), which has collections of military memorabilia associated with the region’s regiments.

The castle has witnessed some dramatic events over the centuries: Mary, Queen of Scots, was imprisoned here in 1568, and it was the site of a notorious eight-month siege during the English Civil War, when the Royalist garrison survived by eating rats, mice and the castle dogs before finally surrendering in 1645. Look out for some medieval graffiti and the ‘licking stones’ in the dungeon, which Jacobite prisoners supposedly lapped for moisture.

Carlisle CathedralCHURCH

(icon-phonegif%01228-548151; www.carlislecathedral.org.uk; 7 The Abbey; suggested donation £5, photography £1; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-6.15pm Mon-Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Built from the same red sandstone as Carlisle Castle, Carlisle’s cathedral began life as a priory church in 1122 and became a cathedral when its first abbot, Athelwold, became the first bishop of Carlisle. Among its notable features are the 15th-century choir stalls, the barrel-vaulted roof and the 14th-century East Window, one of the largest Gothic windows in England. Surrounding the cathedral are other priory relics, including the 16th-century fratry and the prior’s tower.

Tullie House MuseumMUSEUM

(icon-phonegif%01228-618718; www.tulliehouse.co.uk; Castle St; adult/child £6.50/free; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)

Carlisle’s flagship museum covers 2000 years of the city’s past. The Roman Frontier Gallery explores Carlisle’s Roman foundations, while the Border Galleries cover the Bronze Age through to the Industrial Revolution. Two galleries flesh out the story: the Border Reivers covers the marauding bandits who once terrorised the area, while the Vikings Revealed exhibition displays finds from the Cumwhitton Viking cemetery, including helmets, swords and grave goods. The top-floor Lookout has cracking views of the castle.

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoHalston AparthotelHOTEL££

(icon-phonegif%01228-210240; www.thehalston.com; 20-34 Warwick Rd; 1-bed apt £120-140, 2-bed apt £240-280; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

For a city-centre base, this complex of self-catering apartments really has to be the pick of places to stay in Carlisle. While not huge, the apartments are well appointed with small studio kitchens, modern decor, parquet-style flooring, sash windows and zero clutter, and the setting in the Edwardian-era building (formerly Carlisle’s General Post Office) is a real stunner.

icon-top-choiceoWillowbeck LodgeB&B££

(icon-phonegif%01228-513607; www.willowbeck-lodge.com; Lambley Bank, Scotby; d £100-140; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

If staying in the city centre isn’t important, then this palatial B&B is the top choice in the city. The four rooms are huge, contemporary and plush, with luxuries such as underfloor heating, Egyptian-cotton bedding and tasteful shades of beige and taupe. Some rooms have balconies overlooking the gardens and pond.

Warwick HallB&B£££

(icon-phonegif%01228-561546; www.warwickhall.org; Warwick-on-Eden; s £85-150, d £90-220)

This fine country house, 2 miles from the centre along Warwick Rd, is a real country retreat. With its huge rooms, high ceilings and old-fashioned decor, it feels a bit like staying on an aristocratic friend’s estate. There are hectares of grounds and it even has its own stretch of river for fishing.

5Eating

Foxes Cafe LoungeCAFE£

(icon-phonegif%01228-491836; www.foxescafelounge.co.uk; 18 Abbey St; mains £4-8; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat)

Swing by this cool cafe for a pastry and cappuccino or an Apple Refresher smoothie – or better still, settle in for a hearty brunch (available in Full Fox carnivorous and Herbivore veggie versions).

David’sBRITISH££

(icon-phonegif%01228-523578; www.davidsrestaurant.co.uk; 62 Warwick Rd; 2-course lunch £17.95, dinner mains £16.95-25.95; icon-hoursgifhnoon-3.30pm & 6.30-11pm Tue-Sat)

For many years this town house restaurant has been the address for formal dining in Carlisle and there’s no sign that’s going to change. It majors in rich, traditional dishes with a strong French flavour: lamb with a pistachio crust and port gravy, roast chicken with leek and tarragon mash. The house is full of period architecture, too.

Thin White DukeBISTRO££

(icon-phonegif%01228-402334; www.thinwhiteduke.info; 1 Devonshire St; mains £9.95-14.95; icon-hoursgifh11.45am-11pm)

This place scores points for the name alone (at least for Bowie fans), although the Duke himself would have been most unlikely to tuck into the burgers, tandoori chicken and flat-iron steak on the menu. He might have liked the cocktails, though, and the location – in a former monastery, with plenty of exposed brick and ramshackle-chic decor.

Foxborough SmokehouseBARBECUE££

(icon-phonegif%01228-317925; www.foxboroughrestaurant.com; 52 Cecil St; lunch mains £10, dinner mains £12-16; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2pm & 5-9pm Wed & Thu, noon-2pm & 5-10pm Fri, 10am-10pm Sat, noon-2pm & 5-8.30pm Sun)

Low and slow; pig, chicken and cow. That pretty much sums up this cellar smokehouse, where everything is spiced, full-on-flavoured and unashamedly meaty. The house special is the Jacob’s Ladder – dry-aged beef short rib cooked for aeons in a ‘green egg’ cooker. Veggies have options – salads, chilli – but this is one for meat eaters, really.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Hell BelowBAR

(icon-phonegif%01228-548481; 14-16 Devonshire St; icon-hoursgifhnoon-midnight Mon-Fri, to 2am Sat, to 6pm Sun)

This brick-walled bar is a popular haunt for Carlisle’s hipster drinkers, with craft beers and a bargain cocktail menu (with fun concoctions to try such as bubblegum sours and starburst cosmos). Snacky food – burgers, nachos, pizzas and the like – will fill a hole if you’re hungry.

Shabby ScholarCAFE

(icon-phonegif%01228-402813; 11-13 Carlyle Court; tapas £3-7, lunch mains £7-9.50; icon-hoursgifh10am-midnight Mon-Sat)

As its name suggests, this popular place is stylishly shabby, with scruffy furniture, a bar made out of old crates and a determinedly chilled vibe. It’s fine for tapas, light bites and burgers, but many people just come for cocktails.

3Entertainment

BrickyardCONCERT VENUE

(icon-phonegif%01228-512220; www.thebrickyardonline.com; 14 Fisher St)

Carlisle’s grungy gig venue, housed in the former Memorial Hall.

8Information

Carlisle Tourist Office (icon-phonegif%01228-598596; www.discovercarlisle.co.uk; Greenmarket; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-4pm Sun)

8Getting There & Away

AIR

From Carlisle’s tiny airport (www.carlisleairport.co.uk), 8 miles northeast of the city centre, Loganair (www.loganair.co.uk) operates direct flights to/from London Southend, Dublin and Belfast.

BUS

National Express coaches depart from the bus station on Lonsdale St for destinations including London (£25.50 to £39.10, 7½ hours, two or three direct daily), Manchester (£17 to £24.40, three to 3½ hours, three daily) and Glasgow (£12 to £17.10, two hours, four to six daily).

Bus 554 goes to Keswick (£14.60, 70 minutes, four daily Monday to Saturday, three on Sunday) and bus 104 goes to Penrith (£6.30, 40 minutes, half-hourly Monday to Saturday, nine on Sunday).

TRAIN

Carlisle is on the west-coast line from London to Glasgow. It’s also the terminus for the scenic Cumbrian Coast and Tyne Valley lines, as well as the historic Settle to Carlisle Railway (www.settle-carlisle.co.uk; adult return £28) across the Yorkshire Dales. The following are the main destinations:

Glasgow £28.50, 1¼ hours

Lancaster £32.40, 45 minutes

London Euston £119.70, 3½ hours

Manchester £56, two hours 10 minutes

Newcastle-upon-Tyne £16.70, 1½ hours

Penrith

icon-phonegif%01768 / Pop 15,181

Just outside the borders of the national park, red-brick Penrith perhaps has more in common with the stout market towns of the Yorkshire Dales. It’s a solid, traditional place with plenty of cosy pubs and quaint teashops and a lively market on Tuesdays. It’s also the main gateway for exploring the picturesque Eden Valley.

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoLowther EstateHISTORIC SITE

(icon-phonegif%01931-712192; www.lowthercastle.org; adult/child £9/7; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm)

This sprawling country estate once belonged to one of the Lake District’s most venerable families and is currently undergoing a huge, multimillion-pound restoration project. The 400-year-old crenellated castle and the estate’s grounds are now open to the public again. Though the castle itself is to remain a ruin, restoration work is gradually breathing life back into the gardens, which have been largely forgotten since the estate fell into disrepair following WWII.

Among the areas to visit are the Iris Garden, the Great Yew Walk, a restored parterre and a wealth of hidden follies, lakes and woodland areas.

RhegedVISITOR CENTRE

(icon-phonegif%01768-868000; www.rheged.com; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm)

Cunningly disguised as a Lakeland hill 2 miles west of Penrith, this visitor centre houses an IMAX cinema and temporary exhibitions. There’s also a large retail hall selling Cumbrian foodstuffs and souvenirs. Local chef Peter Sidwell runs cooking classes and is also responsible for the cafe menu.

4Sleeping

LoungeHOTEL££

(icon-phonegif%01768-866395; www.theloungehotelandbar.co.uk; King St; d/f from £80/110; icon-wifigifW)

For a town-centre hotel at reasonable prices, you can’t do any better than this chic little number. Pine furniture, laminate floors and tasteful tints of pistachio, cream and taupe feel a tad generic, but it’s chintz-free and central. The three-bed apartment (£160) has its own mini-kitchen. Breakfast and dinner is served in the ground-floor bistro.

icon-top-choiceoAugill CastleHOTEL£££

(icon-phonegif%01768-341967; www.stayinacastle.com; Kirkby Stephen; r/ste from £180/240; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

If you’ve always dreamed of staying in a bona fide British castle, this stately pile near Kirkby Stephen is definitely the place. All the trappings are here – crenellated turrets, stained-glass windows, cavernous rooms – and the design vibe inside is rather groovy, with a mix of antique furniture and contemporary furnishings. There’s even a mini-cinema. It’s 25 miles southeast of Penrith.

George HotelHOTEL£££

(icon-phonegif%01768-862696; www.lakedistricthotels.net/georgehotel; Devonshire St; d £125-165; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifW)

Penrith’s venerable red-brick coaching inn offers classically decorated rooms in prim stripes and country patterns, plus a quaint bar and restaurant. It’s not quite the heritage beauty it might appear to be at first glance – rooms are comfortable but disappointingly free of original features. The free parking’s a boon.

5Eating

icon-top-choiceoFour & TwentyBISTRO££

(icon-phonegif%01768-210231; www.fourandtwentypenrith.co.uk; 14 King St; lunch mains £14-16, dinner mains £16.50-19.50; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm Tue-Sat)

Proper fine dining with a reasonable price tag is the modus operandi at this bistro, which blends sleek decor with rustic wood, banquette seats and mix-and-match furniture. Expect sophisticated dishes such as pork tenderloin with garlic, sage and Parma ham, or sea bass ‘bouillabaisse-style’. If you’re going to eat out in Penrith town, this is the place to do it.

George & DragonPUB FOOD££

(icon-phonegif%01768-865381; www.georgeanddragonclifton.co.uk; Clifton; mains £13.95-21.95; icon-hoursgifhnoon-2.30pm & 6-9pm)

If you don’t mind a drive, this pretty pub in the village of Clifton makes a good lunch or dinner stop. It’s situated on the Lowther Estate and sources much of its produce (including game) from there. Fires, benches and rafters make for a cosy setting and the food is generally good, if not quite gastropub standard.

icon-top-choiceoAllium at Askham HallGASTRONOMY£££

(icon-phonegif%01931-712350; www.askhamhall.co.uk; Askham; dinner menu £50; icon-hoursgifh7-9.30pm Tue-Sat)

Regal setting, royally good dining. Chef Richard Swale’s passion for Cumbrian produce was learned from a childhood spent shooting, fishing and foraging (he keeps his own chickens). His food combines richness and delicacy – such as chicken, cauliflower cheese and truffles – and everything looks like a work of art. The setting inside the hall is quite formal; dress nicely.

7Shopping

JJ GrahamFOOD & DRINKS

(icon-phonegif%01768-862281; www.jjgraham.co.uk; 6-7 Market Sq; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

There’s been a grocer here since 1793 and this endearingly old-fashioned deli is still the place to pick up treats such as local cheeses, homemade chutneys and loose-leaf teas.

8Information

Penrith Tourist Office (icon-phonegif%01768-867466; pen.tic@eden.gov.uk; Middlegate; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1-4.45pm Sun) Also houses the town’s small museum.

8Getting There & Away

There are frequent train connections north to Carlisle (£5.90, 15 minutes) and south to Oxenholme (£7, 25 minutes), where you can change for branch trains to Windermere.

The bus station is northeast of the centre, off Sandgate. Bus 104 goes to Carlisle (£6.30, 40 minutes, half-hourly Monday to Saturday, nine on Sunday), and bus X4/X5 goes to the Cumbrian coast (£6.80 to £11.20, half-hourly Monday to Saturday, hourly Sunday) via Rheged, Keswick and Cockermouth.