PUFF PASTRY

The preparation of puff pastry requires careful attention to detail, but the payoff is a light and airy pastry that’s tremendously versatile. Use it to make cinnamon-sugar or cheese straws for a cocktail party, elegant tarts filled with whipped cream and berries, or showstopping Napoleons with a luscious ricotta, pistachio, and raspberry filling.

Puff Pastry

Making puff pastry is the crowning achievement of the baker’s art. Here, we offer a recipe for demi-feuilletée—sometimes called simple puff pastry. Although it takes some effort to prepare, our step-by-step photos, will help you through the process.

Active time: 1 hour 30 minutes plus chilling

Makes: about 2½ pounds dough

3 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup cake flour (not self-rising)

1 teaspoon salt

2 cups unsalted butter (4 sticks), chilled (do not use salted butter or margarine)

1 cup ice water

1. In large bowl, stir together both flours and salt. With pastry blender, two knives used scissor-fashion, or fingertips, work ½ cup butter into flour mixture until coarse crumbs form. With fork, gradually stir in ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until soft dough forms, adding more water if necessary. Wrap dough in plastic; refrigerate 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, between two sheets waxed paper, with rolling pin, pound and roll remaining 1½ cups butter into 6-inch square; wrap and refrigerate.

3. On lightly floured surface (see Tip), with floured rolling pin, roll dough into 12-inch square; place butter square diagonally in center. Fold corners of dough over butter to meet in center, overlapping slightly. Press with rolling pin to seal.

4. Roll dough into 18" by 12" rectangle. From one short side, fold one-third of dough over center, then fold opposite third over first, letter-style, to form 6" by 12" rectangle; press seam to seal.

5. Turn dough 90 degrees. Roll into 15" by 8" rectangle, fold into thirds to form 5" by 8" rectangle. Wrap in plastic; refrigerate at least 1 hour. Repeat, rolling dough into 15" by 8" rectangle and folding into thirds, two more times. Wrap and refrigerate 30 minutes.

6. Repeat process of rolling and folding dough into 5 by 8 rectangle, then refrigerating for 30 minutes, twice more, so that dough has been folded six times in all. After sixth fold, wrap well and refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 3 days (or freeze up to 1 month) before using.

TIP If you don’t have a cool marble slab to work on, chill the countertop by placing an ice-filled jelly-roll pan on top of it before you roll out the pastry.

MAKING PUFF PASTRY DOUGH

This pastry’s myriad flaky layers are created by repeatedly folding and rolling a chilled block of butter into a sheet of dough.

1. Flatten the cold butter into a uniformly thick square by rolling it between two sheets of waxed paper.

2. Center the slab of butter diagonally atop the larger square of chilled dough.

3. Fold the four corners of the dough over the butter as if you were creating an envelope. Seal the seams by flattening them with a rolling pin.

4. Roll the packet of butter and dough into an 18" by 12" rectangle (it will be quite thick).

5. Fold the two short sides into the center as if you were folding a letter. Seal the seam together with your fingers.

6. Give the folded dough a quarter turn, then roll it out into a 15" by 8" rectangle. Fold the dough in thirds again, then wrap and chill before continuing.

Puff-Pastry Tarts

These tart shells can be made through step 2 and frozen, then baked straight from the freezer. Use a variety of different berries (or chopped fruit) for the filling.

Active time: 1 hour plus chilling

Bake time: 40 minutes

Makes: 16 tarts

1 recipe Puff Pastry

1 large egg, beaten

Sweetened Whipped Cream

4 cups assorted fresh berries, cut up if large

1. Cut puff pastry dough crosswise in half. On lightly floured surface, with floured rolling pin, roll 1 piece into 20½" by 10½" rectangle, gently lifting dough occasionally to prevent sticking. With pastry wheel or sharp knife, trim edges to make 20" by 10" rectangle. Cut rectangle into eight 5-inch squares; place on ungreased large cookie sheet. Refrigerate 30 minutes. Repeat with remaining dough half.

2. Shape each tart shell: Fold 1 dough square diagonally in half to form triangle. Cut ½-inch-wide border strip parallel to both sides of triangle, without cutting through either fold or tip of triangle, so strips remain attached. Unfold triangle. Lift up 1 loose border strip and bring across base, gently pulling to match corner of border to corner on base. Bring second loose border strip over first and into same position on opposite side. Attach points with drop of water. Refrigerate on cookie sheet 30 minutes.

3. Preheat oven to 400°F. Bake tarts 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F; brush top of borders with beaten egg. Rotate sheets between upper and lower racks; bake 20 minutes longer, or until centers of shells are lightly browned. Cool pastries on wire rack.

4. To serve, fill tarts with whipped cream; top with berries of choice.

Each tart: about 440 calories, 5g protein, 34g carbohydrate, 32g total fat (20g saturated), 1g fiber, 106mg cholesterol, 160mg sodium

ROLLING AND SHAPING PUFF PASTRY TARTS

Follow these easy steps to create tarts that look like they were made by a professional pastry chef.

Fold one square diagonally in half. Starting near the fold, make a cut ½ inch from the edge without cutting through either the fold or the tip of the triangle.

When you unfold the dough, it should look like this. Lift up one border strip and cross it over, aligning it with the opposite edge.

Cross the other border strip over dough and match it to opposite edge. Brush a drop of water under the point of each strip and press gently to help the two layers adhere.

Puff-Pastry Tarts

Raspberry-Pistachio Napoleons

This lavish dessert looks like a gourmet treat, but it can be put together with surprising speed, thanks to readymade frozen puff pastry.

Active time: 15 minutes plus cooling

Bake time: 17 minutes

Makes: 2 servings

½ sheet frozen puff pastry (6" by 12"), partially thawed

¾ cup ricotta cheese

3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar plus more for dusting

¼ teaspoon vanilla extract

Pinch freshly grated orange peel

¼ cup roasted salted pistachios, shelled and chopped

1 container (6 ounces) raspberries

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line small cookie sheet with parchment paper.

2. Cut pastry into four 3" by 6" rectangles; place on prepared cookie sheet, spacing 2 inches apart. With fork, pierce pastry all over. Cover with second sheet parchment paper and small cookie sheet. Bake 15 minutes. Remove top cookie sheet and parchment paper. Bake 2 to 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Cool completely on wire rack. Pastry can be kept uncovered at room temperature up to 3 hours.

3. While pastry bakes, in medium bowl, stir together ricotta, 3 tablespoons sugar, vanilla, and orange peel; set aside. Ricotta mixture can be covered and refrigerated up to 1 hour.

4. To assemble: Spread ricotta mixture on 2 rectangles pastry. Sprinkle with pistachios. Arrange raspberries in single layer on pistachios and ricotta. Top with remaining 2 rectangles pastry. Dust tops with confectioners’ sugar.

Each serving: about 640 calories, 18g protein, 54g carbohydrate, 40g total fat (12g saturated), 6g fiber, 47mg cholesterol, 270mg sodium

Raspberry-Pistachio Napoleons

Cinnamon-Sugar Straws

A variation on the French pastry twists known as sacristains, these pretty sweets emerge from the oven with a coating of caramelized cinnamon sugar.

Active time: 20 minutes plus chilling

Bake time: 15 minutes

Makes: about 20 straws

½ cup sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

¼ recipe Puff Pastry, or 1 sheet thawed frozen puff pastry (half of 17¼-ounce package)

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line two large cookie sheets with foil. Mix sugar and cinnamon. Sprinkle half of sugar mixture on work surface. Lay dough out on sugar. Roll into 15" by 10" rectangle, sprinkling remaining sugar mixture under and over dough to prevent sticking.

2. With sharp knife, cut dough crosswise into ¾-inch-wide strips. Twist each strip two or three times, and place ½ inch apart on prepared cookie sheets. Bake 15 minutes, or until sugar has caramelized, rotating sheets between upper and lower oven racks halfway through. With wide metal spatula, loosen straws and set cookie sheets on wire racks until pastries cool completely.

Each straw: about 85 calories, 1g protein, 10g carbohydrate, 5g total fat (3g saturated), 0g fiber, 12mg cholesterol, 30 mg sodium

Puff Pastry Cheese Straws

Always a party favorite, paprika and a little cayenne pepper give these cheesy twists a kick. Instead of the usual Cheddar, we’ve used aged Gouda or Parmesan for more sophisticated flavor. For easy party prep, feel free to substitute store-bought puff pastry for homemade.

Active time: 30 minutes

Bake time: 15 minutes per batch

Makes: 48 straws

1 tablespoon paprika

½ teaspoon cayenne (ground red) pepper

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

¼ teaspoon salt

½ recipe Puff Pastry, or 1 package (17¼ ounces) thawed frozen puff pastry sheets

1 large egg white, lightly beaten

8 ounces aged Gouda or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, at room temperature, finely shredded (2 cups)

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Grease two large cookie sheets. In small bowl, combine paprika, cayenne, nutmeg, and salt.

2. Unfold 1 puff pastry sheet. On lightly floured surface, with floured rolling pin, roll pastry into 14-inch square. Lightly brush with some egg white. Sprinkle half of paprika mixture on pastry. Sprinkle half of cheese on half of pastry. Fold pastry over to cover cheese, forming rectangle. With rolling pin, lightly roll over pastry to seal layers together. With knife, cut pastry crosswise into ½-inch-wide strips.

3. Place two-thirds of strips, 1 inch apart, on one prepared cookie sheet, twisting each to form spiral and pressing ends against cookie sheet to prevent strips from uncurling. (Do not crowd; strips puff while baking.) Half fill second cookie sheet with remaining strips; set sheet aside. Bake first sheet of strips 15 to 20 minutes or until golden. (For even cooking, bake only one sheet of strips at a time.) With spatula, transfer to wire rack to cool.

4. Meanwhile, form remaining pastry into straws, using remaining egg white, paprika mixture, and Gouda. Place one-third of strips on second cookie sheet, to fill sheet completely; bake as above. When first cookie sheet is cool, wash and grease again; use to bake remaining strips. Store in airtight container up to 3 days.

Each serving: about 75 calories, 2g protein, 5g carbohydrate, 5g total fat (2g saturated), 0g fiber, 5mg cholesterol, 75mg sodium

TIP These cheese straws make delightful holiday gifts; present them in a tall jar tied with a bow. You can shape and freeze the unbaked straws up to one month ahead, but bake them only a day or two before you need them, or they may lose their crispness.

Puff Pastry Cheese Straws

Classic Palmiers

The step-by-step photographs at right will help you form these scrolled “palm leaves.” Serve palmiers with fresh berries and coffee or tea.

Active time: 30 minutes plus chilling

Bake time: 14 minutes per batch

Makes: about 60 palmiers

⅓ cup sugar

¼ recipe Puff Pastry, or 1 sheet thawed frozen puff pastry (half of 17¼-ounce package)

1. Sprinkle sugar on work surface and place puff pastry on sugar. With floured rolling pin, roll dough into 16" by 10" rectangle, incorporating as much sugar as possible into dough. Using side of hand, make indentation lengthwise down center of dough. Starting at one long side, roll dough tightly up to indentation. Repeat with other long side until it meets first in center. Wrap scroll in plastic and refrigerate 30 minutes, or until sugar has dissolved and pastry is cold enough to slice easily.

2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line large cookie sheet with foil. With knife, cut scroll crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices. Place slices, 1 inch apart, on prepared cookie sheet. Bake 7 minutes. Turn pastries over and bake 7 minutes longer, or until sugar has caramelized and palmiers are deep golden. Cool 1 minute on cookie sheet. With wide metal spatula, transfer to wire rack to cool.

3. Repeat with remaining dough.

Each palmier: about 25 calories, 0g protein, 3g carbohydrate, 2g total fat (1g saturated), 0g fiber, 4mg cholesterol, 10 mg sodium

MAKING PALMIERS

These curliqued pastries are sure to impress, but rolling and slicing them is not difficult if you follow our step-by-step instructions. Just be sure to chill as instructed so your palmiers will hold their shape.

After rolling the sheet of puff pastry into a 16" by 10" rectangle, use the side of your hand to make a shallow indentation down the middle of the dough.

Roll one long side of the dough sheet inward toward the center, then roll the other side in until they meet. Wrap and chill the scroll so that it holds its shape.

After chilling, slice the dough crosswise into ¼-inch-thick slices. When baked, the rolls of dough will become crisp, delicate double scrolls coated with caramelized sugar.