A pasta salad, prepared with the right type of noodle and coupled with a few fresh ingredients, can be as satisfying as any hot pasta dish.
These salads are perfectly suited to Monday-to-Friday cooking. For the harried cook, they also provide an elegant means of using up leftovers and a way of preparing a meal in advance for those nights when you won’t have any time to cook.
I like to make salads with thin ribbons or small shapes of durum wheat pasta. Pasta that is too thick or too large tastes pasty and chewy when served cold. For simple pasta salads dressed with a vinaigrette, I recommend small shapes such as orzo or tubettini, or skinny shapes such as vermicelli or linguine fine. The small shapes are good for side-dish salads, the long noodles for first- or main-course salads.
For more complex salads that include a number of other ingredients along with the pasta, I like fusilli, rotelle, gemelli, or penne—shapes that are small enough that they do not become gluey but large enough to match the size and shape of the other ingredients.
Believe it or not, Chinese egg noodles are the best type of fresh pasta for salads because they hold their shape well after boiling and stand up to dressings. However, I know that freshly made Chinese noodles aren’t always easy to find; thin fresh linguine make a good substitute.
Of all the exotic non-semolina noodles, I like mung bean starch noodles or rice flour noodles best for all-purpose salads. I reserve buckwheat noodles for the more assertively flavored salads. The transparent mung bean (“cellophane”) noodle has a pleasant slippery texture with little of its own flavor, which makes it an excellent vehicle for the dressing and other ingredients.
Please don’t use stuffed pastas, such as tortellini or ravioli, in salad. The fat in the meat or cheese fillings hardens and tastes unpleasant when served cold.
If you are cooking only half a pound of pasta, then boil the pasta until it is perfectly al dente; do not undercook it. Drain it immediately, rinse it thoroughly under cold water, and drain again. (Rinsing with cold water stops the cooking process.)
However, when you are cooking a pound of pasta or more, undercook it very slightly. This amount of pasta will continue to cook a little after draining because the larger mass retains the heat longer. Drain, rinse, and drain again. Then pat the pasta dry with paper towels.
Some people like to dress pasta while it’s still hot because it absorbs more of the flavor of the dressing. But since the pasta isn’t rinsed in cold water, it softens more. If you like to taste the pasta in your salad as well as the dressing, then add the dressing to cooled pasta. The choice is yours.
In any event, when a pasta salad stands for a couple of hours, it soaks up the dressing and appears dry. To freshen and moisten it, you need either to toss the pasta with the dressing that has sunk to the bottom of the bowl or to add more dressing. When you make a pasta salad, dress it, toss it, and serve it immediately. You end up using a lot less dressing than when you dress the salad in advance.
My favorite pasta salads are those that are made no longer than an hour before serving. That way they taste spritely, the texture of the pasta is perfect, and they can be served at room temperature, which allows all the flavors to come through.
However, there are times when you want the convenience of serving a cold pasta salad you’ve prepared the night before. If at all possible, prepare most of the salad ingredients the night before, but wait to cook and cool the pasta, and then toss it with the prepared ingredients close to serving time.
If this is not possible, then prepare and cook all the salad elements in advance, but keep them separate. Cook, drain, and cool the noodles, then toss them with just enough oil so that they don’t stick together. Keep everything, separate and covered, in the refrigerator until the following day. To serve the salad, remove all of the ingredients from the refrigerator an hour or two before you want to eat, so that the chill wears off and the full flavor of the ingredients comes through. If you are adding green vegetables to the salad, do so at the last possible moment (if left on too long, the acid in the dressing will turn the green a dull olive color).
If you are serving leftover pasta salad, remove it from the refrigerator an hour before serving to revive the flavors. Try to add one fresh ingredient to pick up the taste and color of the salad, and if the salad looks dry, add a little more dressing before serving.
Pasta salads that include meat and poultry are terrific with mustard vinaigrettes or with mayonnaise- or yogurt-based dressings, such as Rich and Creamy Dressing (page 217).
Seafood pasta salads are delicious with my Basic Vinaigrette Dressing or Citrus Dressing (pages 213, 216) or Anchovy Mayonnaise (page 215).
Pasta salads with cheese work best with vinaigrettes that include mustard, fresh herbs, or chopped tomatoes (see the Basic Vinaigrette variations, page 214).
Bean and lentil pasta salads marry nicely with my Citrus Dressing or Tart and Sweet Balsamic Dressing (both page 216).
Fresh vegetable pasta salads taste best with the citrus or vinaigrette dressings—they enhance the flavor of the vegetables.
PASTA: Medium-size fancy shapes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 35 minutes
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Delicious, refreshing, elegant, simple—all are apt descriptions of this salad. Follow it with a berry dessert or start with a cold soup, such as gazpacho.
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2 ribs celery
1 scallion (green onion)
¾ pound skinless, boneless chicken or turkey breasts
½ pound (3 cups) rotelle (wagon wheels) or radiatore
1 tablespoon dried tarragon
⅓ cup lemon juice
⅓ cup mayonnaise (regular or low-fat)
⅓ cup sour cream or low-fat yogurt
Freshly ground black pepper
Boston or Bibb lettuce leaves, for serving
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. Meanwhile, cut the celery into ¼-inch dice. Trim off 1 inch of the scallion top and cut the rest into very thin slices. Cut the chicken into 1-inch dice.
3. When the water comes to a boil, add the pasta and cook until it is almost done, about 7 minutes. Add the chicken chunks and boil until cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the pasta and chicken in a large colander. Then transfer the pasta and chicken to a plate, cover lightly with aluminum foil, and refrigerate to cool off quickly, about 10 minutes.
4. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the tarragon, lemon juice, mayonnaise, and sour cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. When the pasta is cool, toss it with the dressing in the mixing bowl, cover lightly with foil, and refrigerate for another 10 minutes. Serve the salad over lettuce leaves. Or chill it thoroughly, about 1 hour, and then serve.
Chicken Waldorf Pasta Salad: Add 1 McIntosh apple, cored and cut into ½-inch dice, and ½ cup chopped walnuts.
PASTA: Medium-size fancy shapes or fresh egg noodles
MAKES: 6 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
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Noodles combined with poached chicken and Chinese seasonings makes for a delicious, original salad that appeals to children as well as adults. It is wonderful as part of a barbecue or buffet.
When I have the energy, I wash a few spinach leaves to serve with this salad for a deep green contrast to the pale tan dressing. Sliced tomatoes or cucumbers also make a good accompaniment. This salad tastes best at room temperature. If you do chill it and serve it later, it might need more seasoning or a touch of vinegar to liven it up.
After the powerful flavors of this main course, stick with a simple seasonal fruit for dessert.
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¾ to 1 pound skinless, boneless chicken or turkey breasts
1 pound fusilli, rotini, Chinese egg noodles, fettuccine, or broad egg noodles
4 scallions (green onions)
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce, preferably low-sodium
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 tablespoons rice or white wine vinegar 2 teaspoons chili paste with garlic
¼ cup peanut butter
Spinach or romaine lettuce leaves, for serving (optional)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, for the pasta.
2. Meanwhile, cut the chicken into strips about 2 inches long and ½ inch wide.
3. When the water comes to a boil, add the chicken and simmer until it is just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Using a sieve or slotted spoon, fish the chicken strips out of the water and set them in a colander to drain. Bring the water back to a boil, skim off any surface foam, and add the pasta. Cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. While the pasta is cooking, trim the scallions and cut them into pieces. In a food processor or blender, combine the scallions, sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, chili paste, and peanut butter. Process until smooth. Season to taste with salt, and transfer to a mixing or serving bowl.
5. Drain the pasta and rinse it under cold water to cool it completely. Drain the pasta again, pat it dry, and add it to the mixing bowl along with the chicken. Toss the salad with the dressing, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Serve over spinach or romaine lettuce leaves, if you wish.
Sesame Chicken and Pasta Salad: Substitute 3 tablespoons sesame paste for the peanut butter and 2 teaspoons hoisin sauce for the sugar. Add ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves to the dressing ingredients in step 4.
PASTA: Ribbons made of buckwheat or whole-wheat, or flavored, or tubes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 25 minutes
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Pizzoccheri, slightly twisted charcoal gray-brown buckwheat ribbons—a specialty of northern Italy—taste much like Japanese soba. The texture of buckwheat noodles is a lot less chewy than that of semolina, which is what makes them so good in cold summertime salads.
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¾ pound pizzoccheri, Japanese soba noodles, or spinach penne
½ cup mayonnaise
½ cup lime juice
½ cup (packed) fresh parsley leaves
2 scallions (green onions)
⅛ to ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 plum tomatoes
¾ to 1 pound fresh or frozen lump crabmeat (thawed if frozen)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk the mayonnaise and lime juice together in a mixing bowl. Rinse, pat dry, and mince the parsley, and add it to the mayonnaise. Trim the scallions, thinly slice them, and add them to the mixing bowl along with cayenne. Halve the tomatoes and remove the seeds with a spoon. Chop the tomatoes into small dice and add them to the mayonnaise. Mix well, add the crabmeat, and mix again.
3. Drain the noodles and rinse them under cold water to cool them thoroughly. Drain again. Add the noodles to the salad and mix all the ingredients together. Season to taste with salt and serve immediately. Or chill, covered, in the refrigerator for 2 hours or as long as overnight.
• Substitute leftover grilled fish steaks—such as swordfish, tuna, mako, or even salmon fillets—for the crabmeat. You’ll need about 2 cups cubed cooked fish.
• This is also terrific with scallops or shrimp. Simmer the scallops or shrimp in the pasta water for 2 to 3 minutes, and then retrieve them with a sieve. Drain, and cool to room temperature before adding to the salad.
• An addition of 1 cup cooked corn kernels would be a natural in this salad.
PASTA: Medium-size fancy shapes or tubes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 25 minutes
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The tender avocado and soft pasta balance the shrimp and crunchy vegetables, and act as a perfect foil for the heat of the Tabasco.
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½ pound gnocchi pasta, fusilli, or penne
¾ pound shrimp, peeled and deveined, sea scallops, or lump crabmeat
2 scallions (green onions)
1 rib celery
1 green bell pepper
¼ cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, or 3 tablespoons lemon juice
½ teaspoon dried thyme
½ teaspoon Tabasco sauce
2 ripe avocados, preferably Hass
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, if you are using sea scallops, first remove the rubbery appendage on the side of each scallop. In a large skillet, bring an inch of water to a simmer. Add the shrimp or scallops, cover, and simmer gently over low heat until the seafood is cooked through, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and let cool. (If you are using crabmeat, pick it over and discard any bits of shell or debris; do not cook.)
3. Trim 1 inch off the scallion tops and cut the rest into 2-inch lengths. Cut the celery into chunks. Core, seed, and cut the green pepper into chunks. Then combine the scallions, celery, peppers, oil, vinegar, thyme, and Tabasco in a food processor and blend until smooth.
4. Drain the pasta and rinse it under cold water to cool it thoroughly. Drain again and pat it dry.
5. Peel and pit the avocados, and dice them. Combine the pasta, seafood, and avocados in a mixing bowl, and toss well with the dressing. Season to taste with salt, and serve immediately at room temperature. Or chill, covered, in the refrigerator for 2 hours or as long as overnight.
This is terrific with leftover grilled fish, such as swordfish, tuna, mako, or even salmon fillets. You’ll need about 2 cups of cubed left-over fish; add it to the salad in step 5.
PASTA: Medium-size tubes or fancy shapes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
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Other smoked fish can stand in for the salmon here. Even smoked sardines will work in this salad. The sweet sugar snap peas and the sharp dressing contrast felicitously with the smoky fish.
If you are serving this to guests, precede the salad with a chilled cream soup and follow it with a berry dessert.
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¾ pound (3 cups) sugar snap peas or snow peas, or 2 cups shelled fresh peas
1 shallot or 2 scallions (green onions)
½ recipe Basic Vinaigrette Dressing (see page 213)
½ pound (3 cups) ziti, penne, or fusilli
½ pound smoked salmon, or canned smoked mussels, oysters, or sardines
½ cup (packed) fresh parsley leaves
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. While the water is heating, snap off the ends of the snap peas or snow peas and pull off any strings. Discard any yellow or bruised ones. Peel and mince the shallot (or trim 1 inch off the scallion top and cut the rest into very thin slices). Make the dressing in a large mixing or serving bowl, and add the shallots or scallions to it.
3. When the water comes to a boil, add the sugar snap or snow peas and cook until they are crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Using a sieve, retrieve them from the water and run cold water over them to stop the cooking. Set them aside to drain.
4. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
5. While the pasta is cooking, cut the smoked salmon into ½-inch pieces and add them to the dressing in the mixing bowl. (Or drain the canned smoked fish, pat it dry, cut it into pieces, and add them to the mixing bowl.) Rinse, pat dry, and mince the parsley, and add it to the mixing bowl. Pat dry the snap peas and add them to the mixing bowl.
6. Drain the pasta and rinse it under cold water to cool it. Drain it again, pat it dry with a kitchen towel, and add it to the mixing bowl. Toss well and season to taste with freshly ground pepper (the smoked salmon will make it salty enough).
Instead of the sugar snap peas, use 4 Kirby cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and diced. Or try the salad with 2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and cut into small dice.
PASTA: Medium-size fancy shapes or tubes
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
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I developed this recipe using leftover roast beef, but you don’t need to cook a roast before you can enjoy it. Just go to the deli counter at your market, buy a thick slice of roast beef, and voila, the work is done!
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½ pound (3 cups) fusilli, rotini, or ziti
½ cup mayonnaise (regular or low-fat)
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar or cider vinegar
¼ cup prepared white horseradish
¾ pound boneless roasted beef, or leftover cooked beef such as filet or sirloin, fat removed
1 clove garlic
½ cup pitted green olives
8 leaves romaine lettuce
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk together the mayonnaise, vinegar, and horseradish in a large mixing bowl. Cut the beef into ½-inch cubes. Peel and mince the garlic. Chop the olives. Rinse the lettuce leaves, pat them dry, and cut them crosswise into thin shreds. Add all of these ingredients to the mayonnaise, and combine thoroughly. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
3. When the pasta is done, drain it and rinse it under cold water to cool it slightly. Drain again and pat dry. Add the pasta to the mixing bowl and toss all of the ingredients together. Adjust the seasoning and serve immediately, or chill, covered, in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
SECOND TIME AROUND
Leftovers of this Beef and Fusilli Salad make a great filling for pita bread sandwiches, especially if you add slices of tomato.
ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR CHILDREN
Except for the horseradish, kids love this salad. Divide the dressing between 2 bowls. Add 2 tablespoons horseradish to one bowl and leave the other dressing plain. Then divide the remaining ingredients between the bowls and you have two salads: one for the kids and one for you.
PASTA: Medium-size tubes
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 25 to 30 minutes
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To get the maximum flavor, make sure the beef and the dressing are still warm when you toss them with the pasta.
Unfortunately, the acidity of the lime juice turns the zucchini from bright to dull green. So for the salad to look as good as it tastes, be sure to top it with diced red bell pepper.
½ pound (3½ cups) ziti, mezzani, or penne
½ to ¾ pound boneless beef tenderloin or filet, or boneless roasted beef, fat removed
2 medium-size zucchini or yellow squash 1 clove garlic
½ cup (packed) fresh mint leaves
½ cup (packed) fresh cilantro or parsley leaves
½ medium-size red bell pepper
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon chili powder
⅓ cup lime or lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, cut the beef into strips about ½ to 2 inches long, ½ inch wide, and ¼ inch thick. Rinse the squash and trim the ends. Cut the squash lengthwise into quarters, and cut away most of the seeds. Cut the rest into strips approximately the same dimensions as the beef strips. Peel and mince the garlic. Rinse the herbs, pat them dry, and mince them. Cut the red pepper into a fine dice.
3. Heat the oil in a large skillet, over high heat. Add the garlic and beef strips, and stir-fry until the strips are no longer pink, about 1 minute. Stir in the cumin and chili powder, then add the zucchini strips and lime juice. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, and cook until the zucchini is barely tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the ingredients to a large bowl.
4. When the pasta is done, drain it and rinse it under cold water to cool it slightly. Drain again and pat dry. Add the pasta to the mixing bowl, and toss all the ingredients together. Adjust the seasoning. Right before serving, toss the salad with the minced cilantro and mint. Top each portion with diced red bell pepper.
PASTA: Small tubes or medium-size fancy shapes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 25 to 30 minutes
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This salad is dear to me because it combines ingredients frequently used in Belgium, the country where I spent part of my childhood and where I learned about good food.
Add salt only after all the ingredients have been assembled and you have tasted it for seasoning, because the mustard is salty. I prefer to serve this at room temperature, but it also works well when chilled. So, leftovers can be eaten straight from the fridge.
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¾ pound elbow macaroni, fusilli, or shells
½ cup fresh parsley leaves cup mayonnaise
½ cup Dijon mustard
½ cup dry white wine
¾ pound smoked ham, such as Black Forest
2 Belgian endives, or 5 or 6 medium-size romaine lettuce leaves
2 McIntosh apples
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, rinse the parsley and pat it dry. Purée the parsley with the mayonnaise, mustard, and white wine in a blender or food processor. Place this dressing in a large mixing bowl.
3. Dice the ham and add it to the mixing bowl. Halve the endives lengthwise, cut them into ¼-inch-wide crescents, and add them to the bowl. (If you are using lettuce leaves, tear them into 1-inch pieces.) Wash and core the apples, cut them into ½-inch chunks, and add them to the bowl.
4. When the pasta is done, drain it well, rinse it under cold water, and drain again. Pat the pasta dry. Add the cooled pasta to the mixing bowl and toss all the ingredients together. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve.
ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR DIETERS
Substitute ½ cup nonfat yogurt for the mayonnaise, and add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil to the dressing. Instead of the ham, use lean turkey or 2 cups chick-peas (one 19-ounce can, drained).
PASTA: Medium-size tubes
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
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Separately, the ingredients in this salad might seem ordinary, but when put together they make a fantastic mix, delicious on a spring night—or on any night of the year, for that matter. You don’t need much else for dinner, although a rich chocolate dessert couldn’t hurt!
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½ pound penne, mezzani, or ziti
1 head broccoli or cauliflower
1 cup cherry tomatoes
½ recipe Blue Cheese Dressing (see page 214)
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. At the same time, bring a medium-size saucepan of water to a boil for the broccoli. Cut the broccoli into florets, and cook until they are just tender, about 3 minutes. Drain the broccoli and rinse it under cold water. Then drain it again, pat it dry, and set it aside. (If any of the florets seem too big, cut them into smaller pieces.)
3. Halve or quarter the tomatoes. Make the dressing in a large mixing bowl, and add the tomatoes and broccoli.
4. When the pasta is done, drain it, rinse it under cold water, and drain it again. Pat it dry. Add the pasta to the mixing bowl and toss it with the other ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve at room temperature.
Tex-Mex Broccoli Penne Salad: Blend ⅔ cup olive oil with 2 scallions, thinly sliced, 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced, ¼ cup minced fresh cilantro, and ¼ cup lime juice. Toss the pasta and vegetables with this instead of the blue cheese dressing.
PASTA: Thin strands
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 20 minutes
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This dish is perfect for summer nights and will keep well for a couple of days. If you do make it in advance, store the cucumbers separately from the noodles.
Because the flavors of this dish are so unusual, I think it is better to serve small portions as a side dish to grilled salmon, tuna, or swordfish, for example, rather than as a full-blown main course.
These Japanese wheat noodles have a stickier quality than Western wheat noodles. If you substitute Western pasta for the somen, you’ll need an extra 5 to 10 minutes because they take longer to cook.
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2 carrots
2 scallions (green onions)
½-inch piece of fresh ginger, or ¼ teaspoon ground ginger
½ cup (packed) fresh mint leaves, or 1 teaspoon dried mint
2 cucumbers
¼ cup soy sauce (preferably low-salt)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ cup rice or white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
Freshly ground black pepper
½ pound somen (Japanese thin wheat noodles) or vermicelli
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the noodles.
2. Meanwhile, peel the carrots and cut them into thick rounds. Trim the scallions and cut them into 2-inch lengths. Peel the ginger, and rinse the mint leaves and pat them dry. Peel, seed, and cut the cucumbers into ¼-inch dice; set them aside.
3. In a food processor, combine the carrots, scallions, ginger, and mint; process until smooth. Add the soy sauce, oil, vinegar, and sugar, and process until all the ingredients are well blended. Season to taste with salt (added judiciously because of the soy sauce) and pepper, and transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl.
4. When the water comes to a boil, add the noodles and cook until they are tender but still firm to the bite, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the noodles and rinse them under cold water until they are completely chilled. Drain again, and pat dry. Add them to the dressing in the mixing bowl. Toss well and chill until serving time. To serve, ladle the portions out and top each one with some of the diced cucumbers.
PASTA: Medium-size fancy shapes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 20 to 25 minutes
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If at all possible, try to buy French haricots verts, which are skinny and sweet and quite unlike the large and fibrous American green beans. If you are unable to find haricots verts, substitute ordinary green beans, split lengthwise and then cut into 1-inch pieces.
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½ pound green beans, preferably French haricots verts
½ pound (3 cups) fusilli, rotini, or medium-size shells
2 medium-size tomatoes
1 bunch watercress, stemmed
1 tablespoon black olive paste, or ¼ cup pitted and minced cured black olives
1 recipe Citrus Dressing (see page 216)
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.
2. Trim the green beans and cut them into 1½-inch lengths.
3. When the water comes to a boil, add the pasta and cook for 5 minutes. Add the beans and continue to cook until both the pasta and the beans are tender, another 4 to 5 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, halve the tomatoes, remove the seeds with a spoon, and chop the tomatoes. Rinse the watercress and pat it dry. Using a whisk, blend the black olive paste with the citrus dressing in a large mixing bowl. Then add the tomatoes and watercress leaves.
5. Drain the pasta and green beans, and rinse them under cold water. Drain again, pat dry, and add to the mixing bowl. Toss the ingredients together, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
PASTA: Thin strands or small fancy shapes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 20 to 25 minutes
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The perfect way to eat this brightly flavored dish is at room temperature or slightly warm. However, the recipe also works with hot pasta or served chilled. If you intend to serve this cold, whether a few hours or even a day after making the salad, then rinse the pasta under cold water right after draining it, and be sure it is thoroughly chilled before combining it with the tomatoes and dressing.
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3 ripe medium-size or 8 plum tomatoes (1 to 1¼ pounds)
1 cup (packed) fresh basil, mint, parsley, arugula, or watercress leaves
¼ cup olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 pound fedelini, linguine fine, or spaghettini, or 3 cups small bow-ties (farfallini)
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, halve the tomatoes and remove the seeds with a spoon. Finely chop the tomatoes by hand or in a food processor (don’t let them get soupy), and then place them in a large mixing bowl.
3. Rinse the basil (or other herb) and pat it dry. Combine the basil, oil, and lemon juice in the food processor or blender, and process until smooth. Add this mixture to the tomatoes and toss well. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Drain the pasta and toss it with the tomatoes and dressing. Refrigerate for 20 minutes to cool slightly before serving.
SECOND TIME AROUND
Leftovers are delicious topped with diced fresh mozzarella, freshly grated Parmesan, or crumbled dry goat cheese.
PASTA: Medium-size fancy shapes or tubes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 20 to 25 minutes
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This snappy salad is perfect to serve on a summer evening because the only cooking you have to do is boiling the pasta. Don’t limit this to Monday-to-Friday cooking—it’s an excellent choice for a weekend summer brunch, as part of a buffet, or for a school potluck supper.
½ pound (2½ cups) rotelle (wagon wheels), fusilli, or penne
¾ pound fresh spinach, or 1 head romaine lettuce
½ cup olive oil
6 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 clove garlic
1 can (2 ounces) anchovies, drained
1 green bell pepper
2 scallions (green onions)
2 medium-size or 12 cherry tomatoes
¼ to ½ pound feta cheese, or dry goat’s-milk cheese, to your taste
4 radishes
6 imported black olives, preferably Kalamata, or 1 tablespoon black olive paste
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, stem and wash the spinach; then pat it dry and coarsely chop the leaves. Set it aside.
3. Combine the olive oil, lemon juice, oregano, garlic, and anchovies in a food processor or blender, and process until thoroughly blended. Pour the dressing into a large mixing bowl.
4. After you prepare each of the following ingredients, add it to the dressing in the mixing bowl: Core, seed, and cut the green pepper into small dice. Trim 3 inches off the scallion tops and thinly slice the rest. Chop the tomatoes (or quarter the cherry tomatoes). Crumble the feta cheese. Trim, rinse, and chop the radishes. Pit and mince the black olives.
5. When the pasta is done, drain it and rinse it under cold water. Drain it again and pat it dry. Add the cooled pasta to the mixing bowl along with the chopped spinach. Toss the ingredients well, and season the salad to taste with lots of fresh pepper. (The feta and anchovies will make the salad taste salty enough.)
PASTA: Tiny shapes
MAKES: 6 servings
TIME: 20 minutes
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A light meal for a hot summer night, this salad is also great as a side dish with grilled swordfish, tuna steaks, lamb chops, and even ham steaks. Think of it too as a way to use leftover tiny pasta. This will keep, refrigerated, for 2 days.
A tangy fruit salad made with pineapple, strawberries, and banana would make a good finish to this simple meal.
1¾ cups precooked couscous, or 3 cups cooked stelline, acini de pepe, or tubettini
2½ cups boiling water
⅓ cup olive oil
¼ cup lemon or lime juice
1 jar (3 ounces) pimientos, drained
1 package (10 ounces) frozen corn kernels, thawed, or 2 cups freshly cooked corn kernels, chilled
1 medium-size or 2 small green bell peppers
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Place the couscous in a large mixing bowl. Pour the boiling water over it and let it stand until the grains have swelled and are softened, about 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, combine the oil and lemon juice in a serving bowl. (If you are using leftover pasta, add it to the serving bowl at this point.)
3. Mince the pimientos and add them to the bowl along with the corn kernels. Core, seed, and finely chop the green peppers, and add them to the serving bowl as well.
4. When the couscous has softened, drain it in a sieve to remove any remaining water. Break up any clumps with a fork or your fingers, and add the couscous to the bowl. Mix all of the ingredients together, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately, or cover and chill until serving time.
ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR CHILDREN
I have found that couscous, hot or cold, is a great favorite with my daughter and even with the fussiest eater among her friends. For this salad, I put half the couscous in a separate bowl and mix it with a dressing that she and her friends like, along with the corn kernels and perhaps some diced smoked turkey or ham. The other half of the salad I make as indicated above, adjusting the amount of the remaining ingredients.
PASTA: Tiny shapes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 20 to 35 minutes
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The time this recipe requires varies—35 minutes if you cook the lentils fresh, only 20 minutes if you happen to have cooked lentils on hand. It’s a basic recipe in which you can substitute any variety of cooked legumes for the lentils. Chick-peas are especially delicious.
For a different dressing, just take a look at pages 213 to 217 and substitute ½ cup of another choice.
1 cup lentils
1 cup precooked couscous, or 1½ cups cooked acini de pepe, orzo, or stelline
1¼ cups boiling water
1 red bell pepper
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup balsamic vinegar or another mild, sweet vinegar
2 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring 5 cups of water to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the lentils, cover the pan, and cook over medium heat until tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, place the couscous in a large mixing bowl. Pour the boiling water over it and let it stand until the grains have swelled and softened, about 20 minutes.
3. Core, seed, and finely dice the pepper. In a blender or food processor, combine the oil, vinegar, garlic, and mustard, and mix until very well blended.
4. When the lentils are done, drain them and rinse them under cold water. Drain well again and pat dry. Fluff the couscous with a fork, and add the lentils. Pour the dressing through a sieve (to catch the garlic bits) over the lentils and couscous, and add the chopped peppers. Mix thoroughly, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
Note: Don’t toss out those bits of garlic. Just add them to another dressing and refrigerate.
• Instead of the bell pepper, add 1 cup of a different diced crunchy vegetable, such as fennel or celery.
• Other possible additions include: ¼ cup minced fresh herbs, such as parsley or mint; ½ cup diced cooked ham, chicken, or turkey; ½ of a cup diced cooked vegetable, such as broccoli or asparagus.
PASTA: Tiny shapes
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 10 minutes
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Simply delicious and incredibly easy, this is a beautiful pasta salad to serve with cold veal, salmon, or chicken.
1 generous cup orzo or tubettini
1 scallion (green onion)
½ cup (packed) fresh parsley leaves
½ cup olive oil
¼ teaspoon powdered saffron
3 tablespoons lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender, about 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, rinse the parsley leaves and pat them dry. Trim the scallion and cut it into pieces. Combine the scallion, parsley, olive oil, saffron, and lemon juice in a blender or food processor, and process until smooth. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the dressing to a large serving bowl.
3. Drain the pasta, rinse it under cold water, and drain again. Add the cooled pasta to the dressing, toss well, adjust the seasoning, and serve at room temperature.
SECOND TIME AROUND
• Brighten leftovers with some acidity: for each 2 cups add 1 tablespoon lemon juice.
• Turn leftovers into a different salad entirely. For 2 cups of leftovers, make a dressing of ¼ cup mayonnaise and ¼ cup crushed tomatoes. Add 2 cups chopped fresh vegetables, such as red peppers or cold steamed asparagus, to the salad.
PASTA: Small tubes
MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
TIME: 25 minutes
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Here’s a salad that’s brimming with vegetables, easy to make, and chock full of flavor. If you turn this into a side dish, serve it with a black bean salad, slices of cold roast pork or baked ham, or grilled tuna or swordfish steaks.
Salt
1 pound tubetti, ditali, or orzo
1 scallion (green onion)
½ cup (4-ounce jar) pimientos, drained
6 tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup lemon juice or white wine vinegar
1 cup (packed) fresh parsley leaves
1 red or green bell pepper
1 package (10 ounces) frozen petite peas, thawed
1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (optional)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, trim about 3 inches off the scallion top and cut the rest into chunks. In a blender or food processor, combine the scallion with the pimientos, olive oil, lemon juice, and parsley leaves. Process until smooth, and season to taste with salt and red pepper flakes. Place this dressing in a large mixing bowl.
3. Core, seed, and cut the bell pepper into ½-inch dice; then add it to the mixing bowl. Pat the peas dry, and add them to the bowl.
4. Drain the pasta and rinse it under cold water until it’s thoroughly cooled. Drain the pasta, pat it dry, and add it to the peppers and peas. Toss the ingredients well, adjust the seasoning, and serve at room temperature or chilled.
• Add ½ pound (2 cups) diced smoked turkey or ham.
• For a more elegant presentation, serve the salad over sliced tomatoes or watercress.
PASTA: Ribbons or medium-size tubes
MAKES: 6 servings
TIME: 30 to 35 minutes
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This main-course salad is such a beauty of a recipe that it is well worth considering for guests. When I expect company, I prepare it the slightly more complicated way described in “Especially Good for Company”—it makes for a festive presentation.
If you do prepare this as part of a special meal, then precede it with gazpacho or chilled asparagus vinaigrette and follow it with a lemon- or orange-flavored dessert.
Salt
1 pound spinach fettuccine or penne
1 large or 2 small yellow summer squash
1 cup mayonnaise
¼ cup white wine vinegar or tarragon vinegar
1 cup (packed) fresh mint, dill, or parsley leaves
1 bunch chives, or 2 scallions (green onions)
3 cans (6 ounces each) tuna, packed in oil or water, or 1 pound grilled or baked fresh skinless tuna fillet
1 large cucumber
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile rinse the squash and cut it into ½-inch dice. Add water to a depth of 1 inch in a medium-size saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the squash, cook until just tender, about 2 minutes. (If you have a microwave oven, set the squash in a 10-inch round plate, cover, and cook at full power for 3 minutes.) Once the squash is cooked, drain it and set it aside to cool slightly.
3. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise and vinegar. Rinse, pat dry, and mince the mint leaves and chives (or scallions). Add them to the mayonnaise. Drain the tuna and add it to the mixing bowl along with the cooled squash. Peel, seed, and finely dice the cucumber and add it to the bowl.
4. Drain the pasta and rinse under cold water. Drain the pasta again, pat it dry, and add it to the mixing bowl. Toss all the ingredients together, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
ESPECIALLY GOOD FOR COMPANY
Divide the mayonnaise and vinegar between two mixing bowls, and whisk them together in each bowl. To one of the bowls, add the mint and chives; to the other add the tuna, squash, and cucumber. Mix the contents of each bowl well.
When the pasta has been drained and cooled, toss it with the minted mayonnaise.
To present the dish, mound the tuna mixture in the center of a large platter or shallow bowl, and form a wreath around it with the dressed spinach pasta. The dish then looks as fabulous as it tastes.
PASTA: Medium-size fancy shapes
MAKES: 4 servings
TIME: 35 minutes
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Because turkey is firmer than chicken and its taste is more pronounced, I tend to use it in dishes that are strongly seasoned. If you prefer a more tender texture, however, go ahead and substitute chicken. The pecans add an unusual flavor and a crunchy note, but you can omit them if you want.
This is a wonderful pasta dish for late summer and early fall, when the days are not yet cool enough to entice you into the kitchen for long but you want to fix something unusual for dinner. In fact this is so good, you could serve it to guests. If you’d like to offer another salad with this, try tomatoes dressed with a vinaigrette. I’d follow this with a plum cake or tart or with a fruit combination that mixes blackberries, plums, and bananas.
Salt
1 rib celery
1 cup shelled pecans
¾ pound skinless, boneless turkey or chicken breasts
¼ cup lime or lemon juice
½ cup mayonnaise (regular or low-fat)
⅛ to ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper or freshly ground black pepper
2 cups fresh corn kernels, or 1 package (10 ounces) frozen corn kernels, thawed
½ pound (3 cups) radiatore, rotini, or rotelle (wagon wheels)
Romaine lettuce leaves, for serving (optional)
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta. In another, medium-size saucepan, bring 1 quart of water to a boil.
2. Meanwhile, cut the celery into ¼-inch dice. Chop the pecans. Cut the turkey into strips about 1½ inches long, ¼ inch wide, and ½ inch thick.
3. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the lime juice, mayonnaise, and cayenne pepper together. Add the celery, pecans, and corn, and set the bowl aside.
4. When the water comes to a boil in the smaller saucepan, reduce the heat and add the turkey strips. Cook at a bare simmer until just done, 1 to 2 minutes (any longer and the turkey will toughen). Drain the turkey strips and pat them dry. Then add them to the mixing bowl and toss.
5. Add the pasta to the large pot of boiling water and cook until it is tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the pasta and rinse it under cold water. Drain it again, pat it dry, and then add it to the mixing bowl. Toss all of the ingredients together and adjust the seasoning. Serve immediately, or cover and chill for a couple of hours. Serve over romaine lettuce if you wish.
MAKES: 1 generous cup
TIME: 10 minutes
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This dressing is made with more vinegar than you find in salad dressings used for greens. The additional sharpness balances the blandness of the pasta and counteracts the fact that pasta soaks up flavors.
This dressing is fine with all pasta salads, except perhaps ones that contain seafood.
⅔ cup vegetable or olive oil
¼ cup white or red wine vinegar, or ⅓ cup lemon juice
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Using a whisk or fork, combine the oil, vinegar, and lemon juice in a small bowl or jar. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Add any of the following to the dressing:
1 tablespoon chopped capers
1 tablespoon chopped pimientos
1 teaspoon black or green olive paste
1 teaspoon sun-dried tomato tapenade
1 teaspoon dried herbs
1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs
1 tablespoon chopped imported olives
1 teaspoon pesto
MAKES: 2 cups
TIME: 10 minutes
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This dressing is especially suited to pasta salads that include vegetables, beans, or lentils. You can substitute other cheeses for the blue cheese. Parmesan, for example, would be delicious. This is also a great dressing for plain steamed vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower, or asparagus.
4 scallions (green onions)
1⅓ cups vegetable oil
¼ cup white or red wine vinegar
1 cup crumbled blue cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Trim 3 inches off the scallion tops and cut the rest into thin slices.
2. Using a whisk or fork, combine the oil, vinegar, cheese, and scallions. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
MAKES: about 2 cups
TIME: 10 minutes
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This is one of the best dressings for pasta salads that contain vegetables, veal, chicken, or fish. And pasta salads aside, it is a wonderful dressing to serve with slices of cold roasted veal or lamb.
1 cup (packed) fresh parsley or mint leaves
2 scallions (green onions)
1 can (2 ounces) anchovies, drained
½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
1 cup mayonnaise (regular or low-fat)
6 tablespoons lemon juice or tarragon vinegar
Salt
1. Rinse the herbs and pat them dry. Trim and coarsely chop the scallions.
2. Combine all the ingredients except the salt in a blender or food processor, and process until smooth. Season to taste (carefully, because of the anchovies) with salt. Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Sour Cream Anchovy Dressing: Substitute ½ cup sour cream for ½ cup of the mayonnaise.
Anchovy Dressing (especially good for dieters): Substitute ½ cup low-fat mayonnaise plus ¼ cup vegetable oil for the total amount of mayonnaise. If you can stand a mouth-puckering dressing, increase the lemon juice or vinegar by 2 tablespoons.
Lean Anchovy Dressing Number 2: Substitute 1 cup plain nonfat yogurt for the mayonnaise and reduce the lemon juice or vinegar to ¼ cup.
MAKES: 2 cups
TIME: 10 minutes
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Balsamic vinegar is sweet and mild, which means you can use more of it than you would a more astringent vinegar. This also implies that you can use less oil in your dressing—a definite plus for those of us watching our waists.
This dressing is lovely with vegetable, legume, and seafood pasta salads because it perks up the other more neutral-tasting ingredients.
I always like to make a basic dressing, like this one, in large quantities so it lasts the week. I can use it plain, or doctor it with a teaspoon or so of another spice, herb, or condiment.
1 cup olive oil
¾ cup balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoon Dijon mustard
6 cloves garlic, peeled
1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
Salt
Combine the oil, vinegar, mustard, garlic, and red pepper flakes in a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt, and store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
MAKES: about ¾ cup
TIME: 15 minutes
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Although this is pleasing with poultry-and-pasta salads, it is even better with salads that contain seafood or vegetables. Note that you can’t store this dressing for too long because it turns bitter within a couple of days.
½ cup vegetable or olive oil
⅓ cup lemon juice
3 tablespoons orange juice
½ teaspoon grated lemon zest
½ teaspoon grated orange zest
1 tablespoon minced fresh herbs, such as mint, parsley, or cilantro (optional)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Using a whisk or fork, combine the oils, juices, zests, and herbs in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and store, covered, in the refrigerator.
MAKES: 2 cups
TIME: 5 minutes
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I love this rich dressing, especially in pasta salads that also contain poultry or vegetables. To make a leaner version, use a low-fat mayonnaise and substitute low-fat yogurt for the sour cream.
1 cup sour cream
1 cup mayonnaise
½ cup ketchup
½ cup Dijon mustard
Salt
Combine the sour cream, mayonnaise, ketchup, and mustard in a blender or food processor, and blend until smooth. Season to taste with salt, and store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.