BASIC RECIPES
In both our restaurant and home kitchens, we try to make as much from scratch as possible. Not only does this allow us to know exactly what goes into each dish, it also gives us control over the seasoning, balance, and appearance of these ingredients, and allows us to improvise as needed.
This pastry is intended for fried empanadas and will not work when baked. The recipe is actually an old Ecuadorian version, and due to the absence of vegetable shortening or lard, it’s surprisingly nongreasy (yes, even when deep-fried). Once it’s been rolled into disks, you can store it in the freezer and fill the thawed disks with almost any leftover meat or vegetable and cheese filling.
MAKES 1 ¾ POUNDS (ENOUGH FOR 9 TO 11 SIX-INCH-LONG EMPANADAS)
3 cups all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ cup chilled unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
¾ cup chilled soda water
In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, salt, and baking powder and pulse briefly to mix. Add the butter piece by piece, pulsing after each addition. With the motor running, slowly add the soda water. Turn off the food processor as soon as the pastry begins to clump together.
Turn out the pastry onto a flat surface and knead gently just to form a ball. Shape the dough into a disk and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Let rest at room temperature for about 1 hour. If making in advance, store in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours. Return to room temperature (still wrapped in plastic) before rolling it out.
We finish many of our meats and some vegetables off the grill with this lightly smoked salt, which enhances and carries on the flavors of the fire. This recipe makes a big batch, but it keeps for 1 month.
MAKES 1 CUP
1 cup flaked sea salt
Prepare a smoker with mesquite chips and bring it up to a full rolling smoke. Spread out the sea salt in a shallow metal pan and transfer to the smoker. Turn off or snuff out the heat source and let smolder for 20 to 25 minutes (stopping the heat here will help prevent the smoke from taking on a bitter, acrid taste). Stir the salt to redistribute the smoky crystals, then add new chips as needed to return the smoker to full rolling smoke; turn off or snuff out the heat source again. Let smoke until the salt takes on a light brown hue, at least one or two more 20- to 25-minute cycles. Store in a jar or airtight container for up to 1 month.
Making your own ketchup is easier than it sounds, plus you get to control the spices and ingredients. You start with a can of tomato paste, simmer it with seasonings, cool, and store.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
1 (12-ounce) can tomato paste
½ cup Lyle’s Golden Syrup (or substitute light corn syrup)
1 cup distilled white vinegar
½ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 tablespoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Hungarian sweet paprika
1 cup water
In a medium nonreactive pot, combine the tomato paste, Golden Syrup, vinegar, brown sugar, garlic and onion powders, salt, pepper, paprika, and water; whisk until smooth. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary; let cool completely. Refrigerate for up to 1 month.
The most important part of making fresh mayonnaise is the emulsification step. To help ensure a thick, creamy result and prevent the mayo from breaking, start drizzling the oil in slowly and in very small increments.
MAKES JUST UNDER 2½ CUPS
2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
¼ cup water
2 cups neutral-flavored vegetable oil
In a bowl or in a food processor or blender, combine the egg yolks, salt, pepper, vinegar, mustard, and water; whisk by hand or process until blended. (If using a blender, blend on medium speed.) While still whisking or with the motor running, drizzle in the oil in very small increments until the mixture is emulsified. Refrigerate for up to 1 week.
As a condiment, this mix of chimichurri and mayo is the best of both worlds in one bite—the mayonnaise delivers creaminess and richness, but it’s cut by the acidity and zing from lemon juice, fresh herbs, and raw onion. Red pepper flakes and raw garlic add a subtle spicy kick.
MAKES 1 CUP
½ cup mayonnaise, homemade (left) or store-bought
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1½ teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon finely grated or minced garlic
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
In a small bowl or medium jar, mix all the ingredients well until combined. Store for up to 3 days.
Traditional Provençal aïoli is simply flavored with garlic and olive oil. The addition of fresh mint, a little Dijon, and some rice vinegar gives this one lightness and zip. It’s delicious dolloped on a seafood stew, but it’s also good on potatoes or with roasted or grilled fish or lamb.
MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP
¼ cup fresh mint leaves
¼ cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 small clove garlic
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 egg yolk
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
In a blender, combine the mint, parsley, garlic, vinegar, mustard, egg yolk, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Blend at medium speed to chop up the herbs, then stop to scrape down the sides of the blender with a rubber spatula. Blend at medium speed again, slowly trickling in the oil, until emulsified. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 5 days.
The addition of salty, umami-rich soy sauce and sweet orange juice makes an otherwise common citrus vinaigrette wonderfully more complex. This dressing is great drizzled over sliced avocado, cucumber, tomato, or melon.
MAKES ¾ CUP
¼ cup fresh orange juice plus 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice plus ½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon soy sauce (gluten-free if desired)
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a medium bowl, whisk together the orange juice and zest, the lemon juice and zest, the soy sauce, oil, salt, and pepper until the salt is dissolved. When ready to use, re-whisk to evenly disperse the ingredients. Refrigerate for up to 1 week.
This chile oil can be used on almost anything, but it’s particularly good drizzled on any sashimi-grade fish with a dash of soy sauce or a pinch of sea salt, or used as a base for a vinaigrette.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
⅓ cup dried hot chiles, such as Thai, pequín, or arbol, stemmed
2 to 2⅓ cups neutral-flavored vegetable oil
1 tablespoon kosher salt
¼ cup Hungarian sweet paprika
Finely grated zest of 3 oranges
In a dry skillet, toast the whole chiles until slightly darkened but not blackened, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a food processor, then pulse to chop.
In a small, heavy nonreactive pot over medium-low heat, combine 2 cups of the oil, the salt, and the chopped chiles. Once the oil starts to shimmer and the chiles start moving around, remove from the heat and add the paprika and the orange zest. If the oil is too hot and the paprika starts to sizzle and burn, be ready to cool it off quickly by adding the remaining ⅓ cup of vegetable oil.
Let the mixture cool to room temperature, then strain through a fine-mesh strainer lined with a few layers of cheesecloth. This oil will keep indefinitely when stored in the refrigerator.
Toasting the garlic until lightly browned sweetens it and adds a nutty quality to the oil. Halve the recipe for smaller uses, or use any leftovers as a tangy pasta sauce or over grilled, roasted, or steamed seafood or vegetables.
MAKES ABOUT 1¼ CUPS
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup thinly sliced garlic
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Combine the oil and garlic in a small nonreactive pot over medium heat; cook, stirring, until the garlic turns light brown and toasty, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove it from the heat and immediately add the lemon juice; season with salt and pepper. Serve warm. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Dashi is a savory Japanese broth typically made from dried kelp or fish. It is commonly used as the base for miso soup, but you can use it in other soups and sauces, or as a broth for poaching chicken, fish, or mushrooms.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
1 sheet kombu seaweed (measuring about 4 inches square), wiped clean with a damp cloth
4½ cups cold water
1 cup dried bonito flakes
6 tablespoons soy sauce (gluten-free if desired), or to taste
In a small pot, submerge the kombu in the water and refrigerate overnight.
The next day, bring the pot to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low (if the water boils, the stock will not be totally clear) and just barely simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the bonito flakes. Turn off the heat and let stand for 2 minutes to allow the bonito flakes to settle. Skim off any foam.
Line a strainer with cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl; carefully ladle the dashi through to strain. Discard the kombu and bonito flakes. Add the soy sauce to taste.
Roasting the bones and vegetables before simmering gives the stock its dark color and full flavor.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
3 pounds veal bones
1 large yellow onion, cut into chunks
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into chunks
2 large celery ribs, cut into chunks
8 cups water, plus more as needed
2 tablespoons tomato paste
4 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
2 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
Spread out the veal bones in a large roasting pan and roast until they reach a deep golden brown, about 1 hour. Add the onion, carrot, and celery and roast for 30 minutes more. Remove the pan from the oven, add 4 cups of the water to the pan, and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. (This will help remove all the good roasty bits from the bottom of the pan.)
In a large pot, combine the tomato paste, garlic, peppercorns, thyme, bay leaves, the remaining 4 cups water, and the contents of the roasting pan. Add more water, if needed, to just cover the bones, and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce to a very low simmer. Simmer for at least 6 hours, but preferably up to 10 hours.
Strain the stock through a fine-mesh strainer; let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until ready to use. Before using, remove and discard the fat cap. Refrigerate for up to 5 days or store in the freezer for up to 3 months.
HERBED SALMUERA (BASTING LIQUID)
Salmuera is a well-seasoned brine that’s often used in South America to baste fire-cooked meats as they cook. It moistens, seasons, and evenly distributes color on large cuts of meat and other items that take some time on the grill, such as large steaks or whole tenderloins, sweetbreads, or pork and veal chops. Customize the herbs and seasonings to your liking, or substitute beer or wine for some of the water.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS
4 cups water
8 cloves garlic, smashed
¼ cup kosher salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary leaves, plus 6 sprigs rosemary, at least 6 inches long
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, plus 6 sprigs thyme, at least 6 inches long
2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves, plus 6 sprigs oregano, at least 6 inches long
In a small pot, bring the water to a boil. Remove the pot from the heat and add the garlic, salt, and pepper; let sit for at least 10 minutes, stirring from time to time to help the salt dissolve. Add the chopped rosemary leaves, thyme leaves, and oregano leaves. Tie the sprigs of rosemary, thyme, and oregano together with twine so that the herbs can serve as a “brush” for basting. Store the salmuera for up to 2 days, but fashion the fresh herb brush right before basting.
Brining meats—especially lean ones—before grilling or roasting them helps them retain their moisture and adds seasoning before cooking. The length of brining time depends on the size of the cut you use.
MAKES 6 CUPS
¼ cup kosher salt
¼ cup maple syrup, preferably Grade B
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons dried thyme
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1 head garlic, sliced in half crosswise
6 cups water
In a medium pot, combine the salt, maple syrup, sugar, thyme, peppercorns, bay leaves, garlic, and water; bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and let steep for 30 minutes; strain. Let cool completely before using. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
Like any dry cure, this one is partly for seasoning meat (such as bacon) and partly for preserving it or lightly drying it out. We urge you to follow the proportions exactly—which means weighing the ingredients, especially the pink salt—as pink salt can be toxic if used in the wrong quantities.
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS
½ pound kosher salt (1½ cups)
4 ounces sugar (½ cup)
1 ounce pink salt (sodium nitrite–based preservative)
2 teaspoons dried thyme leaves
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
In a medium bowl, combine the kosher salt, sugar, pink salt, thyme, and black pepper; stir to combine. Store at room temperature in an airtight container for up to 3 months.
Homemade za’atar is great with roasted meats or vegetables, sprinkled on avocado, or mixed with extra-virgin olive oil as a dip for bread or pita.
MAKES ¾ CUP
¼ cup sumac
¼ cup toasted sesame seeds (see Note)
1 tablespoon dried thyme
2 teaspoons dried marjoram
1 teaspoon kosher salt
Combine the sumac, sesame seeds, thyme, marjoram, and salt in a spice grinder or mini food processor and pulse on and off for about 30 seconds to combine (the texture will be coarse). Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
Note You can often find toasted sesame seeds in the Asian foods aisle of the supermarket. If you can’t find the toasted ones, toast raw sesame seeds by warming them up in a small pan over medium heat, then tossing or stirring until they turn a light brown color, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove them from the pan quickly so they don’t burn.
Bacon by definition is always cured and sometimes smoked, but to us it’s worth the extra flavor to smoke it. Since you’ll be taking the time to smoke it, we suggest making the full quantity of this and storing it for later use, either in the fridge or freezer.
MAKES JUST OVER 4 POUNDS
5 pounds pork belly, skin removed
2 ounces Dry Cure (opposite)
Put the pork belly in a stainless steel or glass pan large enough to fit the pork in one single layer, and coat all sides of the pork with the prepared dry cure. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 6 days to cure. Three days into the curing process, flip the belly over to ensure even seasoning.
On day 6, rinse the cure off the belly, then pat it dry with paper towels. Place on a wire rack set in a rimmed baking sheet (this will help promote even airflow) and refrigerate for 24 hours, uncovered, to form a pellicle (dry outer layer).
Prepare a smoker with mesquite chips and preheat to 160°F. When the wood chips are smoldering, put the pork belly, fat side up, in the smoker. Immediately close the door or lid and unplug the smoker (if electric). Smoke for four 30-minute cycles. After the first 30 minutes, remove the condensation from the top of the belly by tilting the rack it is on so as to avoid touching the meat. Pour off the condensation, then return the rack to the smoker and repeat the process three more times. Add more mesquite chips as needed to keep the smoker full of smoke. (Reminder: Be sure to remove and replace chips before they have blackened completely to avoid acrid flavors in the meat.)
Just before the final round of smoking is complete, preheat the oven to 325°F.
Transfer the belly (it will be smoky but not completely cooked) to a wire rack set on a baking sheet. Roast in the oven until the belly is cooked through and a meat thermometer inserted into the deepest part registers 150°F, 25 to 45 minutes. Remove and let cool to room temperature.
Wrap the bacon well and refrigerate until ready to use. The bacon can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for 3 months.
Bacon (usually cured and/or smoked pork belly) has been so universally loved for ages, it’s fun to finally see uncured raw pork belly in so many butcher shops and markets. This braised preparation turns out pork that is tender and moist rather than crispy or smoky.
The recipe makes more braised belly than you will need for the hominy stew, but you will want to snack on it from the moment it comes out of the oven. Leftovers can be used in stews or baked beans. And of course you can also slice and broil or sauté the pieces and serve plain, with breakfast, or as part of the best sandwich ever.
MAKES ABOUT 2 POUNDS
3 pounds fresh pork belly, skin removed
1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1 tablespoon smoked sweet Spanish paprika (also called pimentón dulce)
½ cup maple syrup, preferably Grade B
6 cloves garlic, peeled
1 (12-ounce) can beer such as lager or pilsner (nothing too bitter)
Water
Preheat the oven to 325°F and set a rack in the center of the oven.
Place the pork belly in a pan that leaves just an inch or two of space around the sides (choose a pan that also can be placed on the stovetop burners). Season the belly on all sides with a generous amount of salt and paprika. Drizzle the belly with the maple syrup, scatter the garlic cloves around the pan, then pour enough beer all over the belly so that it reaches about halfway up the thickest sides. Add enough water to the pan so that the liquid reaches about three-quarters of the way up the sides of the belly.
Place the pan on the stove over low heat. Bring the liquid to a simmer, gently jiggling the pan around from time to time so that the belly doesn’t stick to the pan. (If you do this over high heat, the syrup may cause the belly to scorch, so be sure the heat is very low.) As soon as the liquid is simmering, turn off the heat and cover the pan with a lid or aluminum foil; transfer to the oven.
Bake for about 2 hours, then check for tenderness: Uncover the belly and use a sharp knife to pierce the thickest part. If the knife releases very easily, the belly is done. If not, cover again and return it to the oven for an additional 30 to 90 minutes, depending on its thickness (check every 30 minutes).
Once the belly is tender, remove from the oven and, using a metal spatula or two, gently transfer the belly to a wire rack set on a baking sheet. Reserve the braising liquid. Raise the temperature of the oven to 425°F and place the baking sheet with the belly in the middle of the oven. Cook until browned across the top, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and let cool to room temperature, then chill until cold in the refrigerator (this will make it easier to slice more uniformly). Wrap tightly in plastic to store (up to 1 week refrigerated).
Meanwhile, taste the braising liquid and adjust the seasoning, if necessary (if it’s too salty, add a bit more water). Strain the braising liquid through a fine-mesh strainer and let cool until ready to use. Skim away any fat that settles on the top before using the liquid. Refrigerate for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 1 month.
When it comes to octopus, we prefer the size of the ones from Spain, and we like that its population is currently stable and sustainable. To us, frozen octopus yields the best results—the process of freezing and thawing helps tenderize it. Here we poach it in saltwater until it’s completely tender and not chewy. You can prepare this octopus up to 4 days in advance of serving.
MAKES 3 TO 5 POUNDS
3 to 5 pounds frozen cleaned Spanish octopus, thawed in cold water
Kosher salt
In a large nonreactive pot, cover the octopus with warm water; bring to a boil. Season lightly with salt, then reduce to a simmer, weighing down the octopus to completely submerge it. Simmer until tender, 1½ to 2 hours. Start testing for doneness after 45 minutes and every 20 minutes after: poke the octopus with a skewer or toothpick until the skewer comes out with no resistance (but before the octopus begins to disintegrate or lose its skin). Remove from the heat and let cool in the cooking liquid.
Transfer to the refrigerator (still in the cooking liquid) until ready to use, up to 4 days. To store the octopus longer than 4 days, remove from the poaching liquid and freeze in an airtight plastic bag.
These nuts make an incredible snack with cocktails as well as a great garnish or cheeseboard accompaniment. Double the recipe to have extras on hand.
MAKES 1 CUP
1 cup raw shelled pistachios
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons good-quality truffle salt
Preheat the oven to 325°F.
Spread the pistachios in a single layer in a baking dish and bake until roasted, up to 10 minutes; check the nuts after 6 minutes and continue to check every minute until they are fragrant and just toasty. Remove from the oven and immediately transfer them into a bowl. Add the oil and truffle salt and toss well to combine, then immediately place the nuts onto a flat surface to cool. Store refrigerated for up to 1 month.
GRANDMA AGNES’S SPICY DILL PICKLES
This is a pretty standard process for pickling, but the recipe is special. It comes from Greg’s late Grandma Agnes, who made pickles throughout his childhood. Back in the day, they used to keep the pickles crunchy by adding alum (a pickling preservative) before canning them, but we prefer to keep ours in the refrigerator instead, to ensure a good, crisp texture.
In addition to the classic dill pickle spicing, the brine has garlic and red pepper flakes for a bit of heat. If you can get ahold of some fresh cherry peppers, throw those in as well. Grandma Agnes would be proud.
MAKES 3 QUARTS
8 cups water
4 cups distilled white vinegar
1 cup kosher salt
3 pounds pickling cucumbers
4 cloves garlic
2 ribs celery, cut into 4-inch pieces
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 bunch fresh dill
In a large nonreactive pot, combine the water, vinegar, and salt and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the cucumbers, garlic, celery, red pepper, and dill in a storage container with an airtight lid. Once the brine has simmered for 5 minutes, pour it over the cucumber mixture to cover. Weigh down the cucumbers in the container with a dish so that they are completely submerged in the brine. Refrigerate the pickles for at least 2 weeks before eating. Will keep indefinitely in the refrigerator.
Quickly cooking the onion rings in a salty-sweet vinegar mixture gives them a vibrant pink color and sweet-sour taste.
MAKES 1½ CUPS
¾ cup champagne vinegar
¼ cup sherry vinegar
⅓ cup water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 small red onion, sliced into ⅛-inch rounds
In a large nonreactive pot, combine the vinegars, water, sugar, salt, and red pepper; bring to a simmer. Put the onions in a heatproof storage container. Pour the hot liquid over the onion. Wrap the container tightly in plastic wrap or cover with a heatproof lid to let the onions steam. Refrigerate for at least 12 hours before serving. Keep covered and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Roasting beets, as opposed to boiling them, helps concentrate their flavor. Here we roast them covered so that they essentially steam in their skins. You may want to wear gloves when you handle red beets so that they don’t temporarily stain your hands.
MAKES 2 WHOLE BEETS, OR ABOUT 2 CUPS DICED BEETS
2 medium beets
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Scrub the beets and place them in a snug-fitting baking dish. Drizzle with the oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Cover with foil, wrapping it tightly around the dish so that no steam escapes. Cook for about 45 minutes, then check to see if the beets are cooked through by piercing through one of them, foil and all, with a skewer or a long toothpick; the skewer should release easily from the beet. Remove from the oven and uncover, allowing them to cool.
Once they are cool enough to handle, peel the beets by slicing off the root end, then peeling the skin away with a paper towel or dishcloth in your hands (the added friction helps you grab the skin of the beets). Use immediately, or refrigerate peeled beets for up to 5 days.
Sunchokes—which come from the root of a plant related to a sunflower and have a mildly sweet, artichoke-like flavor—make a great snack in chip form. The fried chips can be used as a garnish for anything savory, like salads or soups, as well as on sweet, creamy desserts.
MAKES 4 CUPS
3 cups neutral-flavored vegetable oil, for deep-frying
5 small to medium sunchokes, scrubbed clean (2 to 3 ounces)
Kosher salt
In a small pot, heat the oil until it registers 300°F on a deep-fry thermometer. Line a small baking sheet with paper towels.
Meanwhile, very thinly slice the sunchokes (preferably on a mandoline) to a thickness no greater than 1/16 inch. Discard the thicker pieces from either end of the sunchoke. Using a slotted spoon or spider skimmer, carefully lower the sunchoke slices into the oil and stir gently to separate and prevent sticking. Let cook until lightly golden brown, about 1 minute. Remove immediately using the slotted spoon or spider skimmer and spread out onto the paper towel–lined pan; sprinkle with salt. The chips will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 day.
If you don’t feel like lighting the grill just for this, broil sliced bread until it’s crunchy and light golden brown. Check the slices after 2 minutes in the oven to be sure they don’t burn or become too hard.
SERVES 4
4 (¾-inch-thick) slices levain-style bread (about 7 inches long) or any other artisan-style sourdough loaf
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large clove garlic
Prepare a grill to medium heat.
Drizzle or brush both sides of the bread with the oil and transfer to the grill. Cook 2 to 3 minutes or until the bread is lightly browned but the only actual char is the grill marks. Turn the bread over and repeat on the second side, 1 to 2 minutes more.
Remove from the grill. Rub both sides of the bread with the garlic and serve warm.
A fun way to add flavor to plain homemade or store-bought bread crumbs, this recipe keeps for up to a week. Sauté a batch—or a few—in advance, and you can sprinkle them on everything from salads to gratins to pastas.
MAKES ½ CUP
½ cup plain, coarse dried bread crumbs
½ teaspoon finely grated or minced garlic
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat a heavy pan over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs, then sprinkle in the garlic and salt and drizzle the oil on top. Reduce the heat to low and cook, gently stirring the bread crumbs with a heat-resistant rubber spatula, making sure to scrape down the sides often. Continue cooking until the bread crumbs have turned a golden-brown color and the garlic smells toasty, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately transfer to a large dish or cake pan to prevent burning; let cool completely. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Mascarpone, technically a cream-based cheese from Italy, is easy and inexpensive to make at home—don’t ever spend five dollars on a small container at the store. It works well with both sweet and savory preparations, lending a rich creaminess and natural sweetness.
MAKES 3¾ CUPS
6 cups heavy cream (not ultrapasteurized)
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
In a small, heavy nonreactive pot, bring the heavy cream up to a simmer over medium-low heat. Once the cream comes to a full simmer, stir well with a heat-resistant rubber spatula, then add the lemon juice. Continue stirring for 5 minutes and maintain a simmer. You will most likely need to keep altering the heat level so that the cream doesn’t boil over.
Remove from the heat and stir in the salt. Let cool to room temperature in the pot for at least 45 minutes.
Place a large coffee filter in a small colander and slowly pour the mascarpone cream into it, being careful not to let it go over the sides. Place the strainer over a bowl and wrap tightly with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 12 hours and up to 24 hours.
The next day, scrape the thickened mascarpone into a clean, dry storage container. Press a layer of plastic wrap over the top of the mascarpone, then cover with an airtight lid. Refrigerate for up to 5 days.
Making ricotta yourself leaves you with a bonus ingredient, whey, which you can use to marinate meats or give body and flavor to cocktails.
MAKES 2 CUPS
4 cups whole milk
1¼ cups heavy cream (not ultrapasteurized)
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
2 teaspoons kosher salt
In a medium, heavy nonreactive pot, heat the milk and cream over medium heat, stirring occasionally. As soon as the mixture comes to a boil, remove from the heat and stir in the vinegar and salt; the mixture should separate into curds and whey immediately. Let sit for 20 minutes.
Line a strainer with a few layers of cheesecloth and set it over a bowl, then pour in the cheese. Let sit over the bowl for at least 1 hour and up to 3 hours, until the liquid has drained. Refrigerate the cheese until ready to use, for up to 1 week. Save the whey in a covered container in the refrigerator for other uses, or discard it.
This caramelized milk confection is used in sweets all over Latin America. At times during our travels there, family dinners would end in kids and adults alike lapping it up straight out of the jar. It’s also delicious swirled into coffee, as a topping for ice cream, or as a frosting for cake. Traditionally, it’s made from milk and sugar cooked over very low heat until reduced to a thick caramelized jam. This recipe is somewhat of an easier, cheater’s version, but it does demand attention: you must be sure to keep the can of condensed milk completely submerged with water. If the water evaporates, the can has the potential of dangerously exploding. Using a heavy lid on the pot helps to prevent this.
MAKES 1¾ CUPS
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Place the unopened can of milk in a medium pot and add water to cover by at least 3 inches. Cover with a lid. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low to maintain a low simmer; cook for 4 hours, adding more water as needed to keep the can covered by at least 2 inches of water at all times. Remove the can carefully with tongs and let the can cool to room temperature. Transfer its contents to a bowl and whisk in the salt. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 month.
