Although Lisa Waddle of Nashville, Tennessee, gleaned much of her cooking wisdom from her maternal grandmother, observing her entertain was more a lesson in what not to do. “She was so focused on crowding the table with too many platters and keeping everyone’s plate and glass filled, she never had a chance to eat herself,” says Waddle. “We used to joke that she didn’t need a chair at the table, because she would only sit for a minute or two before popping up to refill the bread basket or reheat a dish she thought wasn’t hot enough.” Even when everyone had eaten their fill, her grandmother insisted on clearing the table and starting to wash up. “Although I know her selflessness was grounded in love, we all would have been much more relaxed if she just sat and enjoyed the meal with us. Now when I entertain, I plan meals that let me be present at the table and take part in the meal and conversation,” she says. That means make-ahead dishes that are served family-style, with an emphasis on quality, not quantity. “It not only makes the meal a gift to others—but also to myself,” Waddle says.

CHOCOLATE WHISKEY BUTTERMILK CAKE WITH PRALINE TOPPING

CAKE

½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

¼ cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder

¼ cup water

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup white sugar

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup buttermilk

1 large egg

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ cup whiskey

FROSTING

¼ cup heavy cream

1 (6-ounce) bar bittersweet chocolate, chopped

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

PRALINE

¾ cup firmly packed dark brown sugar

¼ cup heavy cream

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

¾ cup powdered sugar

1 teaspoon whiskey

1 cup chopped toasted pecans

To make the cake, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Grease and flour an 8-inch cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.

In a heavy saucepan melt the butter with the cocoa and water over medium heat. Let cool slightly.

In a medium bowl whisk the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt. In a large bowl, whisk the buttermilk, egg, vanilla, and whiskey. Whisk the cocoa mixture into the buttermilk mixture until smooth. Add half of the flour mixture, whisk until smooth, then stir in the rest of the flour mixture. Pour the batter into the pan and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until a wooden pick inserted near the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan 10 minutes, then invert onto a wire rack to cool completely.

To make the frosting heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat until just boiling. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate and butter. Let stand until mostly melted, then stir. Let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes until spreadable. Place the cake on a serving platter and frost the top and sides. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

To make the praline, in a heavy saucepan stir the brown sugar, cream, and butter over medium-high heat until the butter melts. Bring to a boil and boil for 1 minute without stirring. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the sugar and whiskey. Stir in the pecans and immediately pour over the top of the cake, spreading to the edges. Store at room temperature.

97814016054_0011_005.jpg Makes 8 to 10 servings