From Betsy Burke Parker of Flint Hill, Virginia, comes “a really old-fashioned recipe” developed in her state, “where there are copious amounts of native persimmons each fall.” Persimmon Pudding is a pudding in the British sense: a soft, baked mixture. Native persimmons should be put through a food mill or ricer to remove seeds and skins. Big Japanese persimmons available at the supermarket are easier—the pulp scoops out easily with a spoon. “Either works well,” says Parker, “but it’s sure fun to take some kids and a bucket and go pick persimmons—after frost but before the raccoons get to them!”

“Gracious entertaining starts with a graceful space—it can be a humble cottage or a grand manor—but grace begins with love,” says Parker. She decorates the house with cherished emblems: “a deer antler found by the river, a wild turkey feather found in the garden, beautiful local art, warm, soft lighting (candles are best, with dim overhead lights as backup), and glowing silver, the longer the back story the better!”

JEAN ROYAL BRANSCOME’S PERSIMMON PUDDING

4 large eggs

2 ½ cups buttermilk

1 ½ cups persimmon pulp (see directions in note above)

1 ½ cups all-purpose flour

1 ½ cups sugar

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

1 ½ teaspoons baking soda

½ teaspoon nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon or ¼ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon salt

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Butter a 3-quart baking dish or 2 (8- or 9-inch) round cake pans.

Beat the eggs in a large bowl until they are light yellow. Add the buttermilk and persimmon pulp and mix well. Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the flour mixture to the persimmon mixture and stir to blend. Pour into the pan.

Bake for 40 to 50 minutes, until a wooden pick inserted near the center comes out clean. (Overcooked is okay; undercooked is not.) Let the pudding cool for at least 10 minutes before serving. However, this dessert improves after several hours or even a day.

Serve with Buttermilk French Vanilla Ice Cream (page 267), whipped cream, or a sweet sauce of your choice.

97814016054_0011_005.jpg Makes 12 to 16 servings

Note: You can add up to ½ cup whole-wheat flour for a denser finished pudding.