Risottos

Zucchini and taleggio

Make the basic risotto bianco, but stir in a few thyme leaves and 2 trimmed and finely diced zucchini (courgettes) about 15 minutes into the rice cooking time. When the rice grains are just cooked, fold in 100g (3½oz) diced taleggio cheese with the butter and parmesan, and set aside to rest. The cheese will become molten and voluptuous as it warms through.

Bianco

Heat 1 litre (35floz) vegetable stock. Finely chop 3 French shallots and soften in 1 tablespoon olive oil and 15g (½oz) butter. Add 400g (14oz) risotto rice and stir to coat the rice. Add 2 glasses dry white wine, stir until evaporated then add a ladleful of stock and a pinch of salt. Stir. As the stock evaporates, add more and stir, continuing for about 18 minutes until the rice is just tender. Take off the heat and stir in 50g (1¾oz) cubed butter and 100g (3½oz) grated parmesan cheese. Cover and set aside for 2 minutes.

Tomato and pesto

Make the basic risotto bianco, but stir in 12 roughly chopped slow-roasted tomato halves halfway through cooking the rice. Omit the butter at the end and stir in only 50g (1¾oz) parmesan. Top each bowlful with an extra roasted tomato half and a spoonful of pesto and scatter with basil leaves.

Fennel and lemon

Make the basic risotto bianco, but add a large, finely chopped fennel bulb and a finely chopped garlic clove with the shallots. About 5 minutes before the end of cooking, stir in the finely grated zest of a lemon. When the risotto is cooked, add the juice of a small lemon and replace the butter with an extra 50g (1¾oz) parmesan. Finish with a grating of lemon zest and some chopped fennel fronds.

Cauliflower pangrattato

Make the basic risotto bianco, but add 400g (14oz) cauliflower florets and a bay leaf to the stock. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add 2 crushed garlic cloves to the shallots and include the cauliflower when adding the stock to the rice. Whizz 150g (5½oz) sourdough bread with a garlic clove, a pinch of chilli flakes and 1 teaspoon thyme leaves until crumbs form. Fry the crumbs with 25g (1oz) butter and 2 tablespoons olive oil until golden. Serve the risotto scattered with the toasted crumbs.

Wild garlic

Make the basic risotto bianco and just a couple of minutes before the rice is cooked, stir in about 150g (5½oz) wild garlic leaves or baby English spinach. Add the butter and cheese and continue the risotto bianco recipe as written. Serve with extra parmesan.