Jam Session

Raspberries, Boysenberries, Blackberries, Black Raspberries, and Blueberries

Although strawberries are the harbinger of spring, the berry bonanza comes in summer in the form of raspberries, boysenberries, blackberries, blueberries, olallieberries, loganberries, tayberries, and, for the fortunate few who can find them, black raspberries. The major variables are size, texture, amount of seeds, and the sweet-tart ratio. They can be combined with currants and apples for a bit of extra pectin. Raspberries are my favorite berry because of their perfume.

Blackberries seem to be the most versatile and durable. Unlike strawberries, which can be made into a whole berry preserve, most of these berries are for jam and pie fillings. They lose their contours when cooked. Berry jams are, of course, great on toast, scones, muffins, and biscuits. They may be spooned into yogurt or over ice cream or panna cotta. Berry jams also make great cookie and cake fillings, such as for linzertorte.

To seed or not to seed? That is up to you. I like to put blackberries through the food mill, as I find their seeds get a bit tough over time. And blackberries make a really good jelly.

Simpatico flavor pairings for berries are vanilla, cinnamon, star anise, basil, mint, lemon verbena, citrus, pomegranate, black pepper, rose, and violet.

This deliciousness is what happened when I got carried away at the market and ended up with leftover fruit from two different recipes. It was another happy accident that led me to now make this jam on purpose.

In a large, preserving pot, gently combine the plums and raspberries with the sugar, lemon juice, and star anise and toss to mix. Set aside to macerate overnight. (If you don’t have time to macerate the fruit overnight, after adding the star anise, add the water or fruit juice and stir gently to distribute. Place the pot over medium-high heat and boil the mixture for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let rest, uncovered, for 1 hour.)

The next day, bring the fruit and water or fruit juice to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let sit, uncovered, for 1 hour.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Cook the jam over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens and passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft set. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pots. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed jam for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Raspberries and strawberries are in the rose family, so I like to accent the fruit with rose petals (in the form of rose sugar). You can omit them, but they make for a very aromatic and romantic jam. Edible dried rose petals can be found in Middle Eastern groceries or online. They are also sold by spice companies, such as Whole Spice Company in Napa Valley, California, and Kalustyans in New York, which also carry powdered roses and rose sugar. I don’t strain out the raspberry seeds, as they are tiny and, unlike blackberry seeds, do not toughen with time. One flat of raspberries is 12 baskets, each about 6 ounces, totaling 4½ to 5 pounds. This recipe can be halved.

Pick over the raspberries and discard any leaves. To preserve the berries’ fragrance, do not wash them.

In a large preserving pot, gently combine the raspberries, rose sugar, granulated sugar (adding more or less to taste, depending on the sweetness of the berries), and the lemon juice. Let sit for 3 hours or up to overnight. The fruit will have given off some juices.

Place the pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes, stirring gently. Remove from the heat and set aside, uncovered, for 30 minutes.

Place two baking sheets on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Return the raspberries to medium-high heat and boil, stirring gently, until the jam passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft set. Stir in the rose water. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheets.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheets and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed jam for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Supposedly, blackberries are short on natural pectin, so adding apples is recommended to compensate. But adding too much apple will produce a jam that has a rubbery texture. Much less apple (barely any, actually) is required than is typically called for. If you have Homemade Apple Pectin (this page) on hand, use that instead. If using fresh apple, you may even want to cook the apple first in a bit of water until it is soft, and then add it to the berry puree as needed.

Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. Add the apple and cook until soft. Drain well. Mash to a puree.

In a large preserving pot, combine the blackberries and 1 cup water. Crush the berries a bit with a potato masher. Let sit overnight to macerate. (If you do not have time to macerate the berries, just proceed with the instructions.)

Next, place the preserving pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes.

Process the berries through a food mill to extract the seeds, reserving all of the fruit pulp and juice.

Transfer the berry pulp and juices to the preserving pot. Stir in the sugar and apple. Place over medium heat and bring to a gentle boil. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water  to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Taste the berry mixture and add the lemon juice, as needed. Stir in the cinnamon and black pepper. Cook until the jam passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft, slightly runny set. This jam firms up well as it cools, so do not cook until it reaches a firm set. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

— For Blackberry-Nectarine Jam, add 4 to 5 nectarines, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces when you add the sugar to the berry puree. The little bites of nectarine in this preserve offer a delicious textural surprise.

No apples are required for pectin in this jam because the orange and lemons do the job. The bay leaves add a nice woodsy character. You can leave them out, but the jam will be less brambly.

In a large preserving pot, combine the blackberries, sugar (adding more or less to taste, depending on the sweetness of the berries), orange juice and zest, and lemon juice. Let sit overnight to macerate.

The next day, place the preserving pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil. Mash the berries with a potato masher. Cook for 5 minutes.

Process the berries through a food mill to extract the seeds, reserving all fruit pulp and juice.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to  a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Transfer the berry pulp and juices to the preserving pot. Add the cloves, black pepper, and bay leaves. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Cook until the jam thickens and passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft, slightly runny set. Taste and adjust the lemon juice and pepper. Discard the bay leaves. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

This jam is tart, rich, and delicious. The whole is more than the sum of its parts. The blackberries and plums bring out the best in each other. There is just a hint of mint.

In a large preserving pot over medium-high heat, combine the plums, blackberries, sugar, apple juice, 4 of the mint sprigs, and 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice and cook until the fruit softens, about 25 minutes. Discard the mint sprigs.

Process the fruit through a food mill to extract the berry seeds, reserving all fruit pulp and juice. You will have about 8 cups.

Cut the leaves of the remaining 3 sprigs of mint into chiffonade. You should have about 3 tablespoons.

Transfer the fruit pulp and juices to the preserving pot, place over medium-high heat, and bring to a boil. Add the black pepper, decrease the heat to medium-low, and simmer, skimming and stirring occasionally, until thick. Add the mint chiffonade and the remaining 2 to 3 tablespoons of lemon juice, as needed. Cook until the jam thickens and passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft, slightly runny set. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheets.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

When I was growing up on the East Coast, black raspberries were abundant. Black raspberry jam was one of my favorites, and ice cream made with the berries was highly sought after. Sadly, black raspberries are rarely available in my local markets. I have been able to special-order them a few times, and my family is still dreaming of the black raspberry jam and ice cream I made with them. I had to ration each jar. Since it is a struggle to find these berries, when I do I always buy a couple of flats. The berry puree that you do not use for jam can be frozen and used to make ice cream.

The technique for preparing this jam is a bit different from that used in making raspberry or blackberry jam. Black raspberries are small, dry, and have lots of tiny seeds. They do not respond well to overnight maceration and need heat and a bit of water to give off their juice. I cook them briefly in a bit of water, mash them with a potato masher, and put them through a food mill for a smooth and relatively seedless jam. If you do not want lots of purple drops of berry juice all over the kitchen and you, wear a dark apron when you work and lay out some baking sheets to protect your counters.

In a large preserving pot over medium-low heat, bring the berries and water to a simmer and cook until soft, about 5 minutes.

Process the berries through a food mill to extract the seeds, reserving the fruit pulp and juice. You will have 6 to 8 cups. It will appear somewhat gelatinous in texture. Measure the puree and note the quantity.

Transfer the berry puree to the preserving pot. Add an equal amount of sugar as berry puree, and stir in the lemon juice. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring frequently. Taste and stir in more lemon juice as needed. Cook until the jam thickens and passes the plate  test (see this page), achieving a soft set that mounds on the plate and is not runny. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Boysenberries are a cultivated cross between a raspberry, a loganberry, and a blackberry. (The loganberry is a simpler cross of blackberry and raspberry). Tart and sweet, they are larger than raspberries, softer than blackberries, and have small seeds. Their close relations are the olallieberry and tayberry. All may be prepared in the same way. The season for these berries is short. So if you like them, be ready to jump to it!

In a large preserving pot, combine the boysenberries and sugar. Let sit overnight to macerate.

The next day, place the pot over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, cooking until the berries are tender, about 5 minutes.

If you wish to remove the seeds, process the berries through a food mill, reserving all fruit pulp and juice.

If you pureed the berries, transfer the berry pulp and juices to the preserving pot. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Cook until the jam thickens and passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a relatively firm set. Add the lemon juice and vanilla to taste. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Blueberries are not high in pectin, so citrus zest and juice are essential for proper gelling. Blueberries may set up fairly firm even if the preserve looks a bit runny during the plate test. Very mysterious! So, when making this recipe, plan to stop cooking and do the plate test a few times. If in doubt, opt for a bit runny rather than a stiff set.

In a large preserving pot, combine the blueberries, lemon juice and zest, the sugar (adding more or less, depending on the blueberries’ sweetness), cinnamon, and allspice. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, then decrease the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. At this point, the jam can be set aside to rest overnight if you like.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set a stockpot on the stove and fill it with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Cook the berry mixture until it begins to thicken. Turn off the heat and do the first plate test (see this page). If the mixture mounds on the plate and does not run much, it is ready. If not, continue to cook and test until it does. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the preserves into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pot. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed preserves for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

— For Blueberry–Mixed Citrus Preserves: Substitute 2 tablespoons grated orange zest for the lemon zest, ½ cup orange juice for the lemon juice, and 1 cinnamon stick and 2 star anise pods, tied in a cheesecloth sachet, for the ground cinnamon and allspice. When the jam has thickened, add ¼ cup lemon juice, or a bit more to taste. Remove the sachet before filling the jars.

— For Blueberry-Orange Preserves: Instead of using all lemon, let the orange dominate as a change of pace.

Deep in color and flavor, this jam uses pomegranate to enhance the blueberries’ tartness with a sweet-sour accent of its own. The Urfa chile powder adds a raisiny quality and a mild buzz. If you can’t find Urfa, use an Aleppo or Maras pepper instead. They are a bit hotter than Urfa peppers, so use a bit less.

In a large preserving pot, combine the blueberries, sugar, pomegranate juice, Urfa chile, cinnamon, allspice, and lemon zest. Place over medium-high heat and bring to a boil, then decrease the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. At this point, the jam can be set aside to rest overnight if you like.

Cook the jam until it has begun to thicken. Stir in 3 tablespoons of the pomegranate molasses and the lemon juice. Taste and add the remaining 1 tablespoon of pomegranate molasses and lemon juice, as needed. Simmer for a few minutes. Turn off the heat and do the first plate test (see this page). If the jam is slightly runny, it is ready. (Blueberries set up fairly well.) If not, continue to cook over low heat and test until it does. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.