Jam Session

Tomatoes

Like the potato, eggplant, and pepper, the tomato is a member of the nightshade family. It originated in Central and South America and was first used as a food in Mexico. Its name is derived from the Aztec tomatl or jitomatl. It was discovered during the era of Spanish exploration of the New World, and, along with peppers, vanilla, chocolate, and corn, was transported to Europe on return voyages. The tomato was planted in Spain in the early 1540s but languished as an ornamental plant for years because people did not know if it was safe to eat.

Eventually the tomato was fondly embraced by cooks all over the Mediterranean, but it took a while. Although tomatoes came to Italy in 1548, they were not used in Italian cooking until the late seventeenth century. The earliest Italian recipe for tomatoes was published in 1692, inspired by a Spanish recipe. The tomato was not grown in England until almost 1600. It was introduced in the Middle East circa 1800 by the English ambassador to Aleppo.

The tomato is a fruit but, like eggplant and squashes, has been treated culinarily as a vegetable because if its relatively mild sweetness. In the 1880s, U.S. tariff laws imposed a duty on vegetables (but not fruits). Because tomatoes were not eaten for dessert and instead used as a savory for the main meal, it was officially declared a vegetable by the United States Supreme Court in 1893.

Some of us may have fond memories of eating vine-ripened tomatoes gathered from a home garden. With commercial distribution, the deliciousness of tomatoes has been greatly diminished. Commercial tomatoes are picked green, hard, and unripe for ease of shipping, and later gassed to bring up the bright red color shoppers seek. No wonder we have become disillusioned with supermarket tomatoes! Grow your own if you can or shop at farmers’ markets, where the tomatoes are picked ripe and still have aroma. Look for the kinds of tomatoes that offer the most tomato flavor—sweet, earthy, and with some acidity. Beefsteak tomatoes are best for eating in salads and sandwiches, as are the so-called heirloom varieties, as well as the dry-farmed Early Girls. Plum tomatoes and pear-shaped San Marzanos are traditionally used in cooking because they have fewer seeds and the least water content of all the varieties, so they reduce into richer sauces. While some farmers’ market plum tomatoes have good flavor, the average supermarket plum tomato can be bland and cottony. Cherry tomatoes, such as Sweet One Hundreds or Sun Golds, are not only good to eat out of hand but cook down into wonderful chunky preserves.

For those of you with gardens, this is what you can do with the end-of-season tomatoes that will not have time to ripen. This chutney is good with poultry and fish.

In the bowl of a food processor, puree the ginger and ½ cup of the vinegar. Add the cinnamon and cloves and puree again.

In a large preserving pot over medium-high heat, combine the ginger puree, tomatoes, apples, onions, celery, salt, and brown sugar. Add the remaining 1½ cups vinegar and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 25 minutes.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Add the cayenne and raisins to the pot and continue to cook, stirring frequently (to prevent the raisins from sinking and scorching), until the mixture thickens and passes the plate test (see this page), with pieces of fruit in a syrupy sauce. If the mixture is dry, add water or more vinegar to thin. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the chutney into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pots. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed chutney for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Like the eggplant, the tomato is an example of a fruit that we use as a vegetable. We’re more accustomed to seeing ketchup on the shelves, but a sweet tomato jam shouldn’t surprise us.

I often serve a salad that combines sliced tomatoes and sliced peaches, as they complement each other so well in sweetness and acidity. As variation, you can use half tomatoes and half peaches for this jam. Vanilla is an optional flavor enhancer.

Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Bring a stockpot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Cut a cross on the bottom of each tomato and cut out the cores. Using a slotted spoon, dip the tomatoes in the boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes, then set on the baking sheet. When cool enough to handle, remove and discard the skins. Cut the tomatoes in half and, holding each over the sink, scoop out the seeds with your fingers and discard. Cut the tomatoes into a large dice. Place the tomatoes in a colander and set aside to drain for 1 to 2 hours.

Transfer the tomatoes to a preserving pot over medium-low heat and add the sugar, lemon juice and zest, vanilla, and salt. Bring to a simmer for a few minutes. Taste and add more sugar, if needed. Turn off the heat and set aside to rest for 1 to 2 hours, or as long as overnight.

Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set a stockpot on the stove and fill it with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Bring the tomato mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, stirring often, until it thickens. This could take a while, longer than a half hour, maybe even an hour, depending on the amount of moisture in the tomatoes, so be patient, and vigilant, and stir often. Taste and add more lemon juice if you think it needs it. Do a plate test (see this page). The jam should not be runny when you tilt the plate. If it is still too runny, continue cooking and stirring. Taste the jam and if you fear you risk ending up with a too-cooked flavor (when the taste of the fresh fruit is literally cooked away), add some of the apple pectin and cook 5 minutes more, and then repeat the plate test. If the jam is still too runny, add more apple pectin, cook, stir, and repeat the plate test until the jam passes. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pot. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pot to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed jam for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

— Use 2 pounds of tomatoes and 2 pounds of peaches, peeled, pitted, and chopped. Add the peaches to the tomatoes when you add the sugar and then macerate overnight. Taste and add more lemon juice as needed.

— Add cinnamon to the mixture instead of the vanilla, or a few tablespoons of chopped fresh mint at the end of cooking.

— Add juice and zest strips of 1 orange, blanching the zest in boiling water for 1 minute, two to three times.

I started making cherry tomato preserves in 1968. My original recipe was inspired by one in Catherine Plagemann’s Fine Preserving. I added the Moroccan seasoning in 1985 so I could serve this with Square One restaurant’s Moroccan mixed grills. I have used both red and yellow cherry tomatoes for this preserve. The red ones hold their color longer. The light brown sugar adds a slightly deeper note, but you can use only granulated sugar if you want to see more of the tomatoes’ color in the final product.

This condiment is great with lamb burgers or chops, roast chicken or turkey, or even grilled eggplant.

2 large, juicy lemons, sliced paper-thin on a mandoline, seeded, and slices cut into eighths

In the container of a food processor or blender, grind the ginger with the cayenne, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, and vinegar.

In a large preserving pot over high heat, combine the spice mixture, tomatoes, brown and granulated sugars, lemon slices, water, salt, and pepper, stirring to combine. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook for about 15 minutes.

Place one or two baking sheets on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see this page) in the water bath.

Decrease the heat under the tomatoes to medium and cook the mixture, stirring frequently, until it is thick and passes the plate test (see this page). It should not be very runny. Season to taste with salt. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet(s).

Ladle the preserves into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet(s) and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed preserves for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

Traditionally, ketchup was a savory condiment, and this recipe follows that flavor path.

Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Bring a stockpot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Cut a cross on the bottom of each tomato and cut out the cores. Using a slotted spoon, dip the tomatoes in the boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes, then set on the baking sheet. When cool enough to handle, remove the skins and discard. Cut the tomatoes in half and, holding each over the sink, scoop out the seeds with your fingers. Place the tomato halves in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until smooth. You will have 10 to 12 cups. Transfer the tomato pulp to a large preserving pot.

Place the tomato mixture over medium heat and add the garlic, salt, paprika, cinnamon, cloves, chile powder, black pepper, ½ teaspoon of  the cayenne, the vinegar, and 4 tablespoons of the brown sugar. Cook, stirring frequently, until the mixture thickens. Taste and add the remaining ½ teaspoon cayenne and 2 tablespoons of brown sugar, as needed. Continue to cook until the ketchup reduces by half and passes the plate test (see this page), achieving a soft set that mounds on the plate and is not runny. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the ketchup into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pot. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 20 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pot to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed ketchup for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

This is a wonderful tart, spicy relish that I first tasted many years ago at a small restaurant on the Asian side of Istanbul. The restaurant, now long gone, specialized in the regional food of Gazantiep (near the Syrian border) and this relish, called ezme, (which I now know is synonymous with “sauce”) was served as an accompaniment to lamb sausage and puffed flatbread. Pomegranate molasses adds that ineffable sweet-sour finish that cannot be replicated with sugar and lemon. If you can’t find poblano peppers, use jalapeños, but increase the amount. You can order the Turkish red pepper known as kirmizi biber from Kalustyans in New York City.

Be sure that that the tart-sweet elements dominate and the heat is just a mild buzz on the tongue. Test this by dipping a piece of bread into the relish to see if it is well seasoned.

Serve the relish with pita bread or as a condiment for lamb, chicken, and fish. And, of course, on lamb burgers.

½ teaspoon ground Aleppo or Maras pepper or cayenne, or more or less (depending on heat of peppers)

Roast the poblanos on a griddle or over a direct flame until the skin is black and charred. Place the peppers in a paper bag or small plastic container with the lid on and let steam for 15 minutes. Peel, seed, and finely chop the chiles. You will have about ½ cup.

Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Bring a stockpot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Cut a cross on the bottom of each tomato and cut out the cores. Using a slotted spoon, dip the tomatoes in the boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes, then set on the baking sheet. When cool enough to handle, remove the skins and discard. Cut the tomatoes in half and, holding each over the sink, scoop out the seeds with your fingers. Coarsely chop the tomato halves. You will have about 4 cups.

In a large preserving pot over medium heat, combine the tomatoes, onion, garlic, Aleppo or Maras pepper, and paprika and cook until the mixture thickens. Add the roasted chiles, pomegranate molasses, vinegar, brown sugar, and salt. Simmer, stirring frequently, until thick. Taste and add more pomegranate molasses and ground pepper as needed. Remove the pot from the heat.

Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

Ladle the relish into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Run a knife along the inside of the jars to break up any air bubbles. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pot to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed relish for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

A few years ago, in a mad moment of seasonal enthusiasm or temporary insanity, my daughter-in-law, Barbara, and I peeled, seeded, and chopped 35 pounds of tomatoes and cooked them down into sauce. The sauce was delicious, but the process was so messy and time-consuming that I vowed never to do it again.

Our family goes through lots of tomato sauce, so naturally I eventually bought two tomato strainers—the Victorio and the KitchenAid mixer attachment—to expedite the processing. Through experimenting, I found that processing uncooked tomatoes produces sauce with the freshest flavor and the deepest color, and for that you need a tomato strainer. Soon after, Barbara and I processed more than 90 pounds of tomatoes. I guess you could say we are obsessed.

The yield from the food mill and the coarse strainer in the Victorio is similar. There will be some seeds but no peel. You will have to reduce the puree produced this way less than if you use the fine strainer.

If you use the fine strainer on the Victorio or KitchenAid, the yield will be a bit more but the puree will be much thinner and you will need to reduce the sauce longer, cutting your final yield.

If you do not have a Victorio tomato strainer or KitchenAid attachment, do not get too ambitious and try to make such a large batch.

If you want to put up a large batch of tomato sauce, first you need to make a decision about tomato variety. You want to use the most flavorful, sweet tomatoes with ample acidity, so taste as many varieties as you can. Most supermarket tomatoes are dismal and overly refrigerated. The average Roma tomato is highly touted for sauce because it has fewer seeds and less waste. I often find Romas bland and cottony, without much tomato flavor or acidity, so taste before automatically choosing them. If you shop at farmers’ markets you will have better luck.

At my farmers’ markets, I can get assorted heirloom tomatoes, San Marzanos (sort of an Italian Roma), and dry-farmed Early Girls. Heirloom tomatoes are often great for flavor but can be watery, so if you use them expect to significantly reduce the puree to produce a sauce that is thick enough the jar. Heirloom varieties are more expensive than Early Girls and San Marzanos, as well; look for the heaviest, most dense varietals. You can also opt to use a blend of varieties.

For my sauce, I use a blend of San Marzanos and dry-farmed Early Girls. Sauce made from only San Marzanos is earthy, deep, and very tomato-y. It tastes like Italy. The sauce made from Early Girls is sweet, tastes like truly great tomatoes, and delivers the largest yield.

What follows is a recipe for an all-purpose sauce—not marinara—that you can customize by adding onions, garlic, and herbs. It is endlessly adaptable to any recipe and keeps in the jar for more than a year. The final yield depends on how watery the tomatoes are and how long you reduce the sauce to achieve the texture you prefer.

You have two options for making sauce without a tomato strainer. One method: Bring a stockpot of water to a boil over medium-high heat. Cut a cross on the bottom of each tomato and cut out the cores. Using a slotted spoon, dip the tomatoes in the boiling water for 1 to 2 minutes and then set on the baking sheet. When cool enough to handle, remove the peels and discard. Cut the tomatoes in half and, holding each over the sink, scoop out the seeds with your fingers and discard. Transfer the tomatoes to a cutting board set over a baking sheet, to capture any juices, and chop them. Transfer the tomatoes and juice to a large stainless steel or enamel-covered, cast-iron preserving pot. (Aluminum interacts badly with tomatoes, and the acid in tomatoes can interact badly with copper.) Cook over medium heat until the tomatoes reach the desired saucelike consistency.

The second method is to use a food mill: Core the tomatoes. Peel them if you prefer (see previous step). Coarsely chop the tomatoes and transfer them and their juice to a large stainless steel or enamel-covered, cast-iron preserving pot. Cook over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes, until they soften and give off more juice. Then set the mill over a bowl and process the warm tomatoes. Return the puree to the pot over medium heat and reduce to desired saucelike consistency.

If you have a Victorio strainer or KitchenAid attachment, which enables you to process raw tomatoes, cut up the tomatoes so they fit in the feeding chute. Process the tomatoes into a bowl. Collect the peels and seeds in another container as they emerge from the machine and discard them. With luck, you will have about 16 cups of puree, depending upon the tomatoes that you use.

Transfer the tomato puree to the preserving pot and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Cook down until the puree thickens into a saucelike consistency. Add the salt to taste at the end of cooking.

Place two baking sheets on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars and lids (see this page) in the water bath.

If using quart jars, add ½ teaspoon citric acid or 2 tablespoons bottled lemon juice to each sterilized jar before adding the tomatoes. If using pint jars, add ¼ teaspoon citric acid or 1 tablespoon bottled lemon juice. Add 1 or 2 basil leaves to each jar.

Ladle the sauce into the jars, leaving ¼-inch headspace. Run a knife along the inside of the jars to break up any air bubbles. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pots. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 45 minutes for quarts and 35 minutes for pints. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheets and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see this page). Label and store the sealed sauce for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

— In case you want to do a small batch or enough for a year’s supply, here are my ratios for scaling: