Further afield, in Bangkok’s neighbouring provinces are a number of attractions that can be visited on day trips or as pleasant overnight breaks. The western provinces are only a short distance from the capital and share a border with nearby Burma (Myanmar). Most people heading in this direction make a brief stop in Nakhon Pathom province to gawk at the huge chedi that dominates the town, before heading to Kanchanaburi province, famous for its so-called “Bridge over the River Kwai” and its tragic wartime associations. However, equally fascinating are the seldom-visited coastal provinces of Samut Sakhon and the lush lowlands of Samut Songkhram.
Erawan Falls at Erawan National Park, Kanchanaburi.
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Trains to Nakhon Pathom and Kanchanaburi leave from Bangkok Noi Railway Station daily. Buses run from Bangkok’s southern bus terminal to all destinations in this chapter, and you can hop between them by bus or by hiring taxis or songthaews, which will gather at tourist sites and transport terminals. If you plan to make many stops it may be cheaper to hire a car (for more information, click here).
Bamboo dance demonstration at Rose Garden.
Marcus Wilson Smith/Apa Publications
Rose Garden 1 [map]
Some 32km (20 miles) west from Bangkok on Route 4 towards Nakhon Pathom is the Sampran Riverside Resort (tel: 0-34 322 544; www.sampranriverside.com; daily 8am–6pm; charge). It has well-landscaped gardens with roses and orchids in addition to a resort-style hotel, a cultural centre, restaurants, tennis courts, an artificial lake with paddleboats, a spa and an excellent golf course.
The premier attraction here is the Thai Village Cultural Show held daily in the garden. In a large arena, costumed actors perform folk dances to live traditional music and re-enact a traditional wedding ceremony and a Thai boxing match. Outside, after this, elephants put on their own show, moving huge teak logs as they would in the forests of the north. The elephants then carry tourists around the compound for a small fee. Otherwise, spend time browsing at the Cultural Village, with gift shops and demonstrations by weavers creating thread from silkworm cocoons.
Fact
The Jumbo Queen contest which takes place at Samphran Elephant Ground annually on 1 May seeks a “well-padded” lady who “best exhibits the characteristics of the majestic pachyderm to persuade people to support the cause of elephant conservation in Thailand”. Strange but true. More details at www.jumboqueen.com.
Samphran Elephant Ground and Zoo
Just a stone’s throw from the resort is the Samphran Elephant Ground and Zoo, another family-oriented attraction that provides a chance to trek on an elephant, feed the crocs and learn about the pachyderm’s importance in Thai culture (tel: 0-2284 1873; www.elephantshow.com; daily 8am–5.30pm; charge). Other fauna on view include gibbons, macaques, pythons and a diverse flock of local birds.
Resident elephant at Samphran Elephant Ground and Zoo.
Marcus Wilson Smith/Apa Publications
At the Crocodile Show, men wrestle with these scaly creatures, while the Elephant Show explains Thailand’s historical relationship with its national symbol. The war re-enactments are exciting displays, but the elephants’ majesty somewhat diminishes when they’re made to do silly things, like dance, race and play football in oversized shirts. After the show, you can feed the elephants or go on a 30-minute elephant trek.
The towering Phra Pathom Chedi.
Jason Lang/Apa Publications
Just 56km (35 miles) west of Bangkok, beyond the Rose Garden on Route 4, is the town of Nakhon Pathom 2 [map] , known for the colossal Phra Pathom Chedi (Thanon Khwa Phra; tel: 0-3424 2143; daily 6am–6pm; charge). Measuring 130 metres (420ft) in height, this golden landmark is claimed as the tallest Buddhist monument in the world, and possibly the oldest Buddhist site in the country.
The original small Sri Lankan-style chedi was erected to commemorate the arrival of Indian Buddhist missionaries who supposedly brought Buddhism to Thailand via Burma in 3 BC. The town Nakhon Pathom was settled in the 6th–11th centuries AD by the Dvaravati empire, a Mon civilisation whose culture flourished in Burma and Thailand. In the early 11th century the Khmers invaded from Angkor, overrunning the city and replacing the original chedi with a Brahman-style prang.
Then in 1057, King Anawrahta of Burma besieged the town, leaving the religious edifice in ruins. When King Mongkut (Rama IV) visited the old chedi in 1853, he was so impressed by its historical significance that he ordered the restoration of the temple. A new chedi was built, covering the older one; the present structure was completed by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V).
Schoolchildren at Phra Pathom Chedi.
Jason Lang/Apa Publications
Set in a huge square park, the massive chedi rests upon a circular terrace and is accented with trees associated with the Buddha’s life. Located in the compound is Phra Pathom Chedi National Museum (tel: 0-3424 2500; Wed–Sun 9am–4pm; charge), which is worth seeing for its artefacts, including tools, carvings and statuary from the Dvaravati period.
In former times, a visit to Nakhon Pathom was more than a day’s journey, so it’s not surprising that a number of palaces and residences were built for visiting royalty. One of them is Sanam Chan Palace (www.palaces.thai.net; Thur–Sun 9am–4pm; charge). Located 2km (1 mile) west of Phra Pathom Chedi along Thanon Rajamankha Nai, the palace comprises several buildings, including a Thai-style pavilion that is now used as government offices, and a building in the English Tudor style. The palace was commissioned by King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) in 1907. Be sure to see the Yaleh Monument, which honours Yaleh, the pet dog of Vajiravudh. The fierce dog, unpopular with the court, was poisoned by the king’s attendants. Even as a statue, Yaleh looks insufferable.
Samut Sakhon 3 [map]
A good way to approach the coastal port of Samut Sakhon (Ocean City), 28km (17 miles) from Bangkok, is by the Mae Khlong Railway line that connects to Thonburi in Bangkok. The line carries passengers on the 40-minute journey through the capital’s suburbs, then through thriving vegetable gardens, groves of coconut and areca palms, and rice fields. A busy fishing port, Samut Sakhon (also called Mahachai) lies at the meeting of the Tachin River, the Mahachai Canal and the Gulf of Thailand. The main landing stage on the riverbank has a clock tower and a seafood restaurant.
Close-up of gold-leaf offerings covering a Buddha image at Phra Pathom Chedi.
Jason Lang/Apa Publications
At the fish market pier, it’s possible to hire a boat for a round-trip to Samut Sakhon’s principal temple, Wat Chong Lom at the mouth of the Tachin river. Most of the temple structures are modern, except for an old viharn (sermon hall) immediately to the right of the temple’s river landing. The viharn dates back about a century. The extensive grounds overlooking the water are nicely laid out with shrubs and flowering trees. There is also a bronze statue of King Chulalongkorn commemorating his visit to the temple.
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market.
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Samut Songkhram 4 [map]
From Samut Sakhon, cross the river to the railway station on the opposite side. Here, board a second train for another 40-minute trip to the province of Samut Songkhram, 74km (46 miles) southwest from Bangkok, on the banks of the Mae Khlong river. The journey goes through broad salt flats, with their picturesque windmills slowly being turned by the sea breezes. Thailand’s smallest province, Samut Songkhram has abundant fruit orchards. Pomelo, jackfruit, rose apple, lychee, mango, as well as the more ubiquitous banana and coconuts, are harvested here before being loaded onto the ice-packed vending carts that trundle the streets of Bangkok.
Samut Songkhram itself is just another fishing town; wandering around its wharf is an olfactory and visual experience. Teak barges can be hired for private dinner cruises up the river (ask at riverside restaurants), and the area is known for swarms of fireflies that magically illuminate the shoreline of lamphu trees in the evenings.
The salt flats of Samut Songkhram.
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King Buddhalertla Naphalai Memorial Park
From Samut Songkhram, you can make a fairly short detour by bus or taxi to the Amphawa District to visit King Buddhalertla Naphalai Memorial Park, also known as Rama II Historical Park (park daily 9am–6pm; museum Wed–Sun 9am–4pm; charge), situated at the birthplace of Rama II. This small museum houses displays of art and crafts from the early Rattanakosin period in four beautifully reconstructed teakwood stilted houses, illustrating how Thai people lived during the rule of King Rama II. In the well-maintained gardens around the museum are rare species of trees, some of which are mentioned in classical Thai literature.
Also found in Amphawa is the Amphawa Floating Market, which anchors in front of the old Wat Amphawa each Friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoon. About a 10-minute walk from the historical park, the market is smaller and more authentic than Damnoen Saduak.
Don Hoi Lot
Another option, accessible by car or longtail boat from Samut Songkhram, is Don Hoi Lot, at the mouth of the Mae Khlong River. Don Hoi Lot is in fact a bank of fossilised shells that has become a popular attraction with locals. It’s a great place to enjoy fresh seafood and tube-like clams (hoi lot in Thai means straw clams). In the late afternoon when the tide is low, villagers enthusiastically search the muddy estuary for clam burrows. They spread a little bit of lime powder at the entrance of the holes, and when the clams become agitated and come out of the ground, they are eagerly fished out.
Selling fresh produce at Damnoen Saduak Floating Market.
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Damnoen Saduak Floating Market 5 [map]
From Samut Songkhram, hire a longtail boat for a trip up the Mae Khlong river to Damnoen Saduak Floating Market (daily 7am–1pm). An early morning departure is necessary if you want to beat the tour buses from Bangkok, 65km (40 miles) away, that flock to this famous floating market in Ratchaburi province by 10am.
While it is possible to walk along the bankside lined with souvenir stands, it’s better to hire a longtail boat to get a better sense of the water-bound commercial bustle. Be prepared though for the worst: this 100-year-old market is little more than a sideshow today, with tourists clambering to snap pictures of the colourful fruit- and vegetable-laden wooden vessels, oared by smiling sun-beaten women wearing wide-brimmed straw hats.
If you’ve hired your own longtail boat, it might be worthwhile asking the boatman to take you deeper into the canals where you can get a glimpse of the canal communities.
The famous bridge spanning the Kwai River.
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
Kanchanaburi
Located around 130km (75 miles) west of Bangkok, the sleepy provincial town of Kanchanaburi 6 [map] is well worth the two-hour drive it takes to get there. It can be done as a busy day trip but, better yet, plan for a more relaxing overnight, with an evening spent on the banks of the Kwae Yai river.
Kanchanaburi received widespread publicity in the last half-century for its infamous railway, which was built during World War II by Allied POWs and Asian labourers, under the watch of the Japanese occupying army. Thousands of lives were lost as the ill-equipped prisoners struggled in appalling conditions to complete over 400km (249 miles) of railway track, called the “Death Railway”, linking Thailand with Burma. Despite its association with the war and the railway, Kanchanaburi remains a laid-back provincial town. Situated close to the Burmese border, it has several interesting temples, as well as nearby caves, waterfalls, forests and the remnants of a 13th-century Khmer palace.
Tip
Instead of staying at a land-based hotel in Kanchanaburi, opt for a floating guesthouse moored by the riverbank instead. Be warned though: while these are atmospheric, they can also get very noisy during weekends, thanks to discos and karaoke boats packed with drunken young Thais on a night of revelry.
JEATH War Museum.
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
River Kwai Bridge
Spanning the Kwae Yai river (also known as Kwai Yai), the latticed steel Bridge over the River Kwai (which takes its name from a movie of the same name) has become a memorial for the fallen. It can be reached by boat or rickshaw from Kanchanaburi town. The bridge has lost some of its significance to tourist commercialisation, but walking across it is a sobering experience. A steam locomotive used shortly after the war is displayed beside the tiny Kanchanaburi station platform, along with an ingenious Japanese supply truck that could run on both road and rail. Floating restaurants and hotels line both banks of the river.
The bridge itself was the second of two bridges, built side by side, crossing the river; the earlier wooden structure was completed in 1942, with the sturdier steel bridge erected by May 1943. Both bridges became a constant target for Allied bombers and were eventually bombed out of action in 1945. Only the eight curved segments on each side of the current structure are original; the rest was rebuilt after the war as part of Japan’s war reparations.
Only the eight curved sections of the “Bridge over the River Kwai” are original; the rest of it was rebuilt after World War II.
Jason Lang/Apa Publications
The tragic saga of the bridge was represented on celluloid in the 1957 Film Bridge over the River Kwai, directed by David Lean and starring Sir Alec Guinness. Winner of seven Academy Awards, this version contains several historic inaccuracies, the most blatant of which was that the bridge was destroyed by commandos, when in fact it was bombed by allied planes.
Today, most of the old railway tracks have been removed, except for a section that runs from Kanchanaburi west to the terminus at Nam Tok near Burma. The 50km (30-mile) journey takes about 90 minutes to complete and the train passes over the reconstructed bridge, the old wooden tracks creaking beneath.
Death Railway
The Japanese began work on a railway between Thailand and Burma in 1942. For most of its 400km (260-mile) length, the railway followed the river valley because this allowed its construction simultaneously in different areas. In the end, nearly 15km (9 miles) of bridges were completed. The Japanese forced some 250,000 Asian labourers and 61,000 Allied POWs to construct 260km (160 miles) of rail on the Thai side, leading to the Three Pagodas Pass on the Thai–Burmese border. An estimated 100,000 Asian labourers and 16,000 Allied POWs lost their lives during 1942–5 from beatings, starvation and disease. It is said that one prisoner died for every sleeper laid.
World War II Museum
Located near the bridge is the World War II Museum (395–403 River Kwai Road; tel: 034-512 596; daily 7am–6pm; charge), also known as the Art Gallery and War Museum. It contains an odd mixture of exhibits, some of which have nothing to do at all with the war. But if you are into kitsch, there’s plenty to interest you. Among life-sized statues of significant war figures like Hitler, Churchill and Hirohito are murals of past winners of the Miss Thailand pageant.
Bomb display and archive photographs at the JEATH War Museum.
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
JEATH War Museum
The small but informative JEATH War Museum (tel: 034-515 203; daily 8am–6pm; charge), tucked away in the grounds of Wat Chaichumpol on Thanon Pak Phraek in the southern end of Kanchanaburi town, will give you a better appreciation of the enormous obstacles the prisoners faced. Its peaceful locale on the banks of the Mae Khlong river (the larger river which splits into the two tributaries of Kwae Yai and Kwae Noi), shadowed by a 500-year-old samrong tree, provides for a quiet moment of poignant reflection.
The acronym JEATH comes from the first letter of some of the principal countries that were involved in this regional conflict during World War II, namely Japan, England, America, Thailand and Holland. The museum is split into two buildings, the larger of which is a long bamboo hut similar to those that housed the POWs during their construction of the Siam–Burma railway. Inside is a collection of poignant photographs, sketches, paintings, newspaper clippings and other war memorabilia, giving you an idea of the harsh conditions they endured.
Bomb display at the JEATH War Museum.
Jock Montgomerie/Apa Publications
Death Railway Museum
Equally fascinating is the Death Railway Museum (73 Jaokunnen Road; tel: 034 512 721; www.tbrconline.com; daily 9am–5pm; charge) at the Thailand–Burma Railway Centre, just adjacent to the Allied War Cemetery. The museum has eight galleries that trace the history and recount the sufferings of the people involved, without making biased judgement. It even has a full-scale replica of the original wooden bridge. The museum was founded by Australian Rod Beattie, the local supervisor of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.
Allied War Cemetery
At the Kanchanaburi Allied War Cemetery (daily 8am–5pm; free) nearly 7,000 Allied soldiers are buried or commemorated, representing less than half of the 16,000 who lost their lives in the war. Immaculate green lawns planted with colourful flowers add a sense of serenity to the graves of the British, Australian and Dutch soldiers lined row upon row (the US dead were repatriated). Look at the grave markers and you’ll notice that most of the young men who died for their countries were under the age of 30. Its location, however, beside noisy Thanon Saengchuto detracts from the solemnity of the place.
Located in a more tranquil setting is the Chung Kai Allied War Cemetery, found southwest of Kanchanaburi town across the river (daily 7am–6pm; free). Another 1,750 POWs are buried at this site.
Over the years, trees and vegetation have grown and embedded their roots in the ruins of Prasart Muang Singh.
Jason Lang/Apa Publications
Around Kanchanaburi
For those who opt to stay overnight in Kanchanaburi, the surrounding countryside holds plenty of surprises. There are a couple of cave temples found within limestone crags on the southern outskirts of Kanchanaburi, some requiring nimble legwork in order to navigate the claustrophobic passageways that lead to eerily-lit meditation cells filled with Buddha images. While they are generally safe, don’t venture into the more remote caves unaccompanied: in 1996 a British female tourist was murdered by a drug-crazed monk at Wat Tham Kao Pun.
Allied War Cemetery, Kanchanaburi.
Peter Stuckings/Apa Publications
One of the frequently visited cave temples is that of Wat Tham Mangkhon Thong, primarily known for its “floating nun” (daily 8am–5pm; charge). An old nun, who has since passed away, used to float on her back in a pool of water while in a state of meditation. Today, a young disciple gives her own interpretation of the ritual – in return for a fee – for busloads of gaping Asian tourists.
Prasart Muang Singh 7 [map]
Located 43km (27 miles) west of Kanchanaburi, the Khmer ruins of Prasart Muang Singh (daily 8am–5pm; charge) are situated in a manicured park. The site makes for a great picnic as it is beside the picturesque Kwae Noi river (a smaller tributary of the Kwae Yai). The central sanctuary of this 13th-century temple complex points east, and is in direct alignment with its more grandiose sister, Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Although nowhere near as impressive or intricate as Angkor Wat, Prasart Muang Singh is still a fascinating testament to just how far west the Khmer empire stretched at the height of its power. On the same site is a small exhibition hall containing duplicates of Khmer sculptures, while near the river is a Neolithic burial site displaying partially uncovered skeletons.
Erawan National Park.
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Erawan National Park 8 [map]
Alternative trips in the vicinity include the spectacular seven-tiered Erawan Waterfall, found in Erawan National Park (daily 8am–4.30pm; charge). The falls are best visited during and just after the rainy season (May–Nov), when the water is at full flow. Situated some 70km (40 miles) north of Kanchanaburi, Erawan Falls can become quite congested with locals who visit the park at weekends and on public holidays.
The route to the waterfall starts from the national park office. The climb up to level five of the waterfall is manageable; getting up to the slippery sixth and seventh levels is not recommended unless you are fit and have enough derring-do. You can cool off at the inviting natural pools (don’t forget your swimsuit) at the base of each of the tiers. The rocks at the highest level are said to resemble the three-headed elephant Erawan, hence its name.
There are several hiking trails in the park, which covers some 550 sq km (212 sq miles) and comprises mainly deciduous forests with limestone hills rising up to 1,000 metres (3,281ft). One of the more popular hiking trails is the 90-minute Khanmak–Mookling trail; the 1,400-metre/yd-long circular trail starts from the national park office. Also taking 90 minutes, the Wangbadan Cave trail takes you through bamboo and evergreen forest along a 1,350-metre/yd-long route.
Tip
There are some 140 gazetted national parks in Thailand, a number of which are easily accessed from Bangkok, like Erawan, Sai Yok, Kaeng Krachan and Khao Sam Roi Yot. For more information on Thai national parks, look up www.thainationalparks.com or www.dnp.go.th/index_eng.asp.
Sai Yok National Park 9 [map]
Less visited is Sai Yok Waterfall in Sai Yok National Park (daily 8am–4.30pm; charge). The waterfall is a little more remote at 100km (62 miles) northwest of Kanchanaburi and best undertaken on an overnight tour. The national park itself covers over 500 sq km (193 sq miles) of mainly teak forests, with one side of it bordering Myanmar (Burma). Apart from the stunning cascade (again best seen in the rainy season, or just after), the park is known as the habitat of the smallest known mammal in the world – Kitti’s Hog-Nosed Bat, also known as the Bumblebee Bat. Found in Sai Yok’s limestone caves in 1974, the creature, which weighs a mere 2 grams (and hardly larger than a bumblebee), has been declared an endangered species.
More adventurous travellers should enquire in lodges and hotels in these national park areas about organised kayaking, rafting and mountain biking trips.