Cagliari & the Sarrabus
Cagliari
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The Sarrabus
Cagliari & the Sarrabus
Why Go?
From urban clamour and cultural gems to wild, inhospitable mountains and thrilling coastlines, Sardinia’s southeast makes for a wonderful introduction to the island.
The main gateway is Cagliari, Sardinia's largest city. Cultured and cosmopolitan, the island’s historic capital is a joy to explore with its bristling waterfront, colourful alleyways and formidable hilltop citadel. Its museums, galleries and baroque churches are among Sardinia’s best, harbouring innumerable treasures. Yet for all its riches, Cagliari remains a busy working port and a trip here is as much about the simple pleasures as sightseeing: seafood dinners in neighbourhood trattorias, people-watching at pavement cafes, strolling through medieval alleyways.
East of Cagliari, the landscape becomes increasingly wild as urban sprawl gives way to the verdant, wooded mountains of the Sarrabus. This great unspoilt wilderness boasts inspiring scenery and magnificent white beaches at Villasimius and the Costa Rei, two of the area’s most popular summer destinations.
When to Go
ASummer sees an annual influx of visitors heading for the area's glorious beaches. Resorts such as Villasimius and the Costa Rei are at their busiest, particularly in August when many Italian families take their holidays.
ACagliari is at its best in spring and early autumn when it's still pleasantly warm but not so hot that sightseeing becomes hard physical labour.
AThe first few days of May means party time in Cagliari as thousands take to the streets to partake in the city's great annual celebration.
AFor the best hiking conditions in the Sarrabus, spring and early autumn are generally the best times.
Best Places to Sleep
Cagliari & the Sarrabus Highlights
1 Il Castello Exploring the nooks and crannies of Cagliari’s medieval citadel.
2 Cala Giunco Gazing at a vision of near beach perfection near Capo Carbonara, Sardinia’s most southeasterly point.
3 Monte dei Sette Fratelli Hiking the thickly wooded mountains at the heart of the remote Sarrabus district.
4 Museo Archeologico Nazionale Coming face-to-face with prehistoric giants at Cagliari’s artefact-packed archaeology museum.
5 Caffè Libarium Nostrum Admiring sweeping panoramas as you sip cocktails at this hilltop cafe.
6 Cantine Argiolas Sampling the pick of the region’s wines during a cookery class at this famous Serdiana winery.
7 Festa di Sant’Efisio Joining the crowds to watch costumed processions parade through Cagliari during its great annual festival.
8 Poetto Beach Sunbathing by day and partying at night on Cagliari’s fabulous beach.
Cagliari
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Forget flying: the best way to arrive in Sardinia’s historic capital is by sea, the city rising in a helter-skelter of golden-hued palazzi, domes and facades up to the rocky centrepiece, Il Castello. Although Tunisia is closer than Rome, Cagliari is the most Italian of Sardinia’s cities. Vespas buzz down tree-fringed boulevards and locals hang out at busy cafes tucked under arcades in the seafront Marina district.
Like many Italian cities, Cagliari wears its history on its sleeve and everywhere you go you come across traces of its rich past: ancient Roman ruins, museums filled with prehistoric artefacts, centuries-old churches and elegant palazzi.
Edging east of town brings you to Poetto beach, the hub of summer life with its limpid blue waters and upbeat party scene.
CAGLIARI IN...
Two Days
Get off to an uplifting start by summitting the Torre dell’Elefante and enjoying fabulous city views. Suitably inspired, follow the narrow, twisting lanes of the Castello district up to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria. In the afternoon, bone up on Sardinia's prehistoric past at the Museo Archeologico Nazionale before seeing out the day over cocktails at the Caffè Libarium Nostrum.
On day two, breakfast at Antico Caffè before heading up to the Galleria Comunale d’Arte for a blast of modern art. Afterwards, clear your head in the green confines of the Orto Botanico. Lunch on seafood in the Marina district, perhaps at Antica Cagliari, and spend the afternoon mooching around the shops on Via Giuseppe Garibaldi and Via Sulcis. Round things off with an alfresco aperitif on Piazza Yenne.
Four Days
Rise early on day three and stock up on picnic goodies at the Mercato di San Benedetto. Then head out to Poetto beach for a day of sunbathing, swimming and windsurfing.
On day four, take a day trip, choosing between the pristine beaches of Villasimius or a visit to the Cantine Argiolas, one of Sardinia’s top wineries in Serdiana. Alternatively, strap on your walking boots for some hiking in the wooded mountains around Monte dei Sette Fratelli.
History
The Phoenicians established themselves in the area in the 8th century BC, but it wasn’t until the Carthaginians took control of what they called Karel or Karalis (meaning ‘rocky place’) around 520 BC that a town began to emerge.
It remained a Carthaginian stronghold until the Romans occupied it in the First Punic War (218–201 BC). Julius Caesar later declared it a full Roman municipality in 46 BC, paving the way for a golden age as a prosperous port. But with the eclipse of Roman power came more turbulent times.
Vandals operating out of North Africa stormed into the city in AD 455, only to be unseated by the Byzantine Empire in 533. By the 11th century, weakening Byzantine influence (accentuated by repeated Arab raids) led Cagliari and the other districts to become virtually autonomous.
In 1258 the Pisans took the town, fortified the Castello area and replaced the local population with Pisans. A similar fate awaited them when the Catalano-Aragonese took over in 1326. The Black Death swept through in 1348, with frequent repeat outbreaks in the succeeding decades.
With Spain unified at the end of the 15th century, the Catalans were subordinated to the Spaniards. Cagliari fared better than most of the island under Spanish inertia, and in 1620 the city’s university opened its doors.
The dukes of Savoy (who in 1720 became kings of Sardinia) followed the Spanish precedent in keeping Cagliari as the viceregal seat, and it endured several anxious events (such as the 1794 anti-Savoy riots). From 1799 to 1814 the royal family, forced out of Piedmont by Napoleon, spent time in Cagliari protected by the British Royal Navy.
Cagliari continued to develop slowly throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. Parts of the city walls were destroyed and the city expanded as the population grew. Heavily bombed in WWII, Cagliari was awarded a medal for bravery in 1948.
Reconstruction commenced shortly after the end of the war and was partly complete by the time Cagliari was declared capital of the semi-autonomous region of Sardinia in the new Italian republic in 1949. A good deal of Sardinia’s modern industry, especially petrochemicals, has since developed around the lagoons and along the coast as far as Sarroch in the southwest.
Cagliari
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1Sights
Cagliari’s key sights are concentrated in four central districts: Il Castello, Stampace, Marina and Villanova. The obvious starting point is the hilltop Castello area, home to a group of fine museums at the Cittadella dei Musei and affording terrific views of the city's skyline.
To the west, high up the hill, is Stampace, where most of the action spirals around Piazza Yenne. Elsewhere in this district you’ll find a number of important churches, a botanical garden and Cagliari’s rocky Roman amphitheatre.
Stampace was Cagliari’s medieval working-class district, home to the city's impoverished Sards who lived huddled in the shadow of the mighty castle. In the 14th century, when the Aragonese were in charge, the Sards were forbidden to enter the castle after nightfall. If caught they were thrown off the castle walls, with the benediction stai in pace (rest in peace), a phrase that over time gave rise to the neighbourhood's name, Stampace.
Bordered by Largo Carlo Felice to the west and seafront Via Roma, the characterful Marina district is a joy to explore on foot, not so much for its sights, of which there are few, but for the atmosphere of its dark, narrow lanes crammed with artisanal shops, cafes and trattorias.
Extending east of Marina, the 19th-century Villanova district boasts some of the city's most picturesque streets – the area around Piazza San Domenico is particularly alluring – as well as wide traffic-clogged roads and imposing piazzas. Its star sight is the hard-to-miss Santuario & Basilica di Nostra Signora di Bonaria.
oIl CastelloAREA
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This hilltop citadel is Cagliari’s most iconic image, its domes, towers and palazzi, once home to the city’s aristocracy, rising above the sturdy ramparts built by the Pisans and Aragonese. Inside the battlements, the old medieval city reveals itself like Pandora’s box. The university, cathedral, museums and Pisan palaces are wedged into a jigsaw of narrow high-walled alleys. Sleepy though it may seem, the area harbours a number of boutiques, bars and cafes popular with visitors, students and hipsters.
The neighbourhood is known to locals as Su Casteddu, a term also used to describe the whole city. The walls are best admired (and photographed) from afar – good spots include the Roman amphitheatre across the valley to the northwest and Bonaria to the southeast.
oMuseo Archeologico NazionaleMUSEUM
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; %070 6051 8245; http://museoarcheocagliari.beniculturali.it; Piazza Arsenale; adult/reduced €5/2.50, incl Pinacoteca Nazionale €7/3.50; 
h9am-8pm Tue-Sun)
Of the four museums at the Cittadella dei Musei, this is the undoubted star. Sardinia’s premier archaeological museum showcases artefacts spanning thousands of years of history, from the early Neolithic, through the Bronze and Iron Ages to the Phoenician and Roman eras. Highlights include a series of colossal figures known as the Giganti di Monte Prama and a superb collection of bronzetti (bronze figurines), which, in the absence of any written records, are a vital source of information about Sardinia’s mysterious nuraghic culture.
In all about 400 nuraghic bronzes have been discovered, many in sites of religious importance, leading scholars to conclude that they were probably used as votive offerings. Depicting tribal chiefs, warriors, hunters, mothers and animals, the pint-sized figurines are stylistically crude but remarkably effective.
Just as the Giganti di Monte Prama are. These 2m-high sculptures, on the 3rd floor, are the only nuraghic stone statues to have been discovered in Sardinia, and among the oldest examples of their type in the Mediterranean. Dating to the 8th and 9th centuries BC, they all represent men, mainly as boxers, archers or wrestlers. More are on display in the Museo Civico in Cabras near where they were originally unearthed.
The ground floor provides a chronological history of the island from the Neolithic age through to the early Middle Ages. Its fine stash of finds includes pre-nuraghic stone implements and obsidian tools, rudimentary ceramics and funny round fertility goddesses. You'll also find a model tophet (sacred Phoenician or Carthaginian burial ground for children and babies) and delicate debris such as terracotta vases, glass vessels, scarabs and jewellery from ancient Karalis (Cagliari), Sulcis, Tharros and Nora.
The 1st and 2nd floors contain more of the same but are divided by region and site rather than by age. Among the highlights are some Roman-era mosaics, a collection of statues, busts and tombstones from Cagliari, and coin displays.
oCattedrale di Santa MariaCATHEDRAL
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; %070 864 93 88; www.duomodicagliari.it; Piazza Palazzo 4; h8am-noon & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-1pm & 4.30-8.30pm Sun)
Cagliari’s graceful 13th-century cathedral stands proudly on Piazza Palazzo. Except for the square-based bell tower, little remains of the original Gothic structure: the clean Pisan-Romanesque facade is a 20th-century imitation, added between 1933 and 1938. Inside, the once-Gothic church has all but disappeared beneath a rich icing of baroque decor, the result of a radical late-17th-century makeover. Bright frescoes adorn the ceilings, and the side chapels spill over with exuberant sculptural whirls.
The third chapel on the right, the Cappella di San Michele, is perhaps the most baroque of all, with its ornate sculptural depiction of a serene-looking St Michael casting devils into hell.
At the central door, note the two stone pulpits, sculpted by Guglielmo da Pisa between 1158 and 1162. They originally formed a single unit, which stood in Pisa’s Duomo until the Pisans donated it to Cagliari in 1312. It was subsequently split into two by the meddlesome Domenico Spotorno, the architect behind the 17th-century baroque facelift, and the big stone lions that originally formed its base were removed to the altar where they now stand.
Beneath the altar is the Santuario dei Martiri (Sanctuary of Martyrs), the only one of several underground rooms open to the public. Carved out of rock, the sanctuary, which is named after the 179 martyrs whose relics are kept here, is an impressive sight with its sculptural decoration and intricate carvings.
Torre dell’ElefanteTOWER
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; www.beniculturalicagliari.it; Via Santa Croce, cnr Via Università; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-7pm summer, 9am-5pm winter)
One of only two Pisan towers still standing, the Torre dell’Elefante was built in 1307 as a defence against the threatening Aragonese. Named after the sculpted elephant by the vicious-looking portcullis, the 42m-high tower became something of a horror show, thanks to the severed heads the city's Spanish rulers used to adorn it with. The crenellated storey was added in 1852 and used as a prison for political detainees. Climb to the top for far-reaching views over the city’s rooftops to the sea.
The Spaniards beheaded the Marchese di Cea here and left her head lying around for 17 years. They also liked to festoon the portcullis with the heads of executed prisoners, strung up in cages like ghoulish fairy lights.
Galleria Comunale d'ArteGALLERY
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; %070 677 75 98; www.museicivicicagliari.it; Giardini Pubblici; adult/reduced €6/2.50; h10am-9pm Wed-Mon summer, to 6pm winter)
Housed in a neoclassical villa in the Giardini Pubblici (Public Gardens) north of the Castello, this terrific gallery focuses on modern and contemporary art. Works by many of Sardinia’s top artists are on show, alongside paintings and sculptures from the Collezione Ingrao, a formidable collection of 20th-century Italian art.
Highlights include the haunting sculpture La madre dell’ucciso (Mother of the Killed) by important Nuoro artist Francesco Ciusa, and La Mattanza, a stylised and vividly defined rendition of a tuna kill by the neorealist painter Foiso Fois.
Once finished in the gallery, visit the gardens, which command sweeping views over Cagliari's modern skyline.
Bastione di Saint RemyVIEWPOINT
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This vast neoclassical structure, comprising a gallery space, monumental stairway and panoramic terrace, was built into the city's medieval walls between 1899 and 1902. The highlight is the elegant Umberto I terrace, which commands sweeping views over Cagliari’s jumbled rooftops to the sea and distant mountains. To reach the terrace, which was recently reopened after a two-year restoration, you can try the stairway (closed at the time of research) on Piazza Costituzione or take the elevator from the Giardino Sotto Le Mure.
Chiesa di San MicheleCHURCH
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; Via Ospedale 2; h8-11am & 7-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon & 7-9pm Sun)
Although consecrated in 1538, this Jesuit church is best known for its lavish 18th-century decor, considered the finest example of baroque styling in Sardinia. The spectacle starts outside with the ebullient triple-arched facade and continues through the vast colonnaded atrium into the magnificent octagonal interior. Here six heavily decorated chapels radiate out from the centre, capped by a grand, brightly frescoed dome. Also of note is the sacristy, with its vivid frescoes and intricate inlaid wood.
Before you go inside, take a minute to admire the massive four-columned pulpit in the atrium. This was built and named in honour of the Spanish emperor Carlos V, who is said to have delivered a stirring speech from it before setting off on a fruitless campaign against Arab corsairs in Tunisia.
Central Cagliari
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oSantuario & Basilica di Nostra Signora di BonariaCHURCH
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; %070 30 17 47; Piazza Bonaria 2; donations welcome; h6.30-11.45am & 4.30-8pm summer, 6.30-11.45am & 4-7pm winter)
Crowning the Bonaria hill, around 1km southeast of Via Roma, this religious complex is a hugely popular pilgrimage site. Devotees come from all over the world to visit the 14th-century Gothic church (sanctuary) and pray to Nostra Signora di Bonaria, a statue of the Virgin Mary and Christ that supposedly saved a ship’s crew during a storm. To the right of the sanctuary, the towering basilica still acts as a landmark to returning sailors.
The sanctuary, the historic seat of the Mercedari order of monks, was originally part of a fortified compound built by the Catalano-Aragonese. The Spaniards arrived in Cagliari in 1323 intent on wresting the city from the Pisans, but when they saw what they were up against, they set up camp on the fresh mountain slopes of Montixeddu, which over time came to be known as Bonaria for its clean air – from the Italian buon’aria meaning ‘good air’. A three-year siege ensued, during which the camp grew to become a fortress with its own church.
Nowadays little remains of the fortress, apart from its Gothic portal, a truncated bell tower, which initially served as a watchtower, and the church. And it’s in the church that you’ll find the revered Virgin Mary and Christ. Legend has it that the statue had a magical calming effect on the sea after it was cast overboard by Spanish seamen during a storm in the 14th century, and still today mariners pray to it for protection on the high seas. Above the church altar hangs a tiny 15th-century ivory ship, whose movements are said to indicate the wind direction in the Golfo degli Angeli.
You’ll find yet more model boats, as well as other ex-voto offerings and a golden crown from Carlo Emanuele I in the sanctuary’s museum, accessible through the small cloister. There are also the mummified corpses of four plague-ridden Catalano-Aragonese nobles whose bodies were found miraculously preserved inside the church.
Adjacent to the sanctuary is the hulking neoclassical basilica. Construction started on this in 1704 but the money ran out and it wasn’t officially completed until 1926.
Pinacoteca NazionaleGALLERY
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; %070 65 69 91; www.pinacoteca.cagliari.beniculturali.it; Piazza Arsenale; adult/reduced €3/1.50, incl Museo Archeologico Nazionale €7/3.50; h9am-8pm Tue-Sun)
Cagliari's principal gallery showcases a prized collection of 15th- to 17th-century art. Many of the best works are retablos (grand altarpieces), painted by Catalan and Genoese artists. Of those by known Sardinian painters, the four 16th-century works by Pietro Cavaro, father of the so-called Stampace school and arguably Sardinia’s most important artist, are outstanding. They include a moving Deposizione (Deposition) and portraits of St Peter, St Paul and St Augustine.
Also represented is the painter’s father, Lorenzo, and his son Michele. Another Sardinian artist of note is Francesco Pinna, whose 17th-century Pala di Sant’Orsola hangs here. These images tend to show the influence of Spain and Italy, rather than illuminating the Sardinian condition. However, there is a brief line-up of 19th- and early-20th-century Sardinian painters, such as Giovanni Marghinotti and Giuseppe Sciuti.
Torre di San PancrazioTOWER
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.beniculturalicagliari.it; Piazza Indipendenza; adult/reduced €3/2)
Rising above the skyline by the Castello's northeastern gate, this 36m-high tower is the twin of the Torre dell’Elefante. Completed in 1305, it is built on the city’s highest point and commands expansive views of the Golfo di Cagliari. It is currently closed for renovations.
Palazzo ViceregioPALACE
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; Piazza Palazzo 2; €1.50; h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun)
Just steps from the cathedral, this pale lime palazzo was once home to the city's Spanish and Savoy viceroys. Today it serves as the provincial assembly and stages regular exhibitions and summer music concerts. Inside, you can visit several richly decorated rooms culminating in the Sala del Consiglio, the assembly's main meeting chamber.
Piazza YennePIAZZA
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The focal point of the Marina district, and indeed of central Cagliari, is Piazza Yenne. The small square is adorned with a statue of King Carlo Felice ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Yenne) to mark the beginning of the SS131 cross-island highway, the project for which the monarch is best remembered. On summer nights, the piazza heaves as a young crowd flocks to its bars, gelaterie and pavement cafes.
Chiesa di Sant’AnnaCHURCH
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; Piazza Santa Restituta; h7.30-10.30am & 5-8pm Tue-Sun)
Largely destroyed by bombing in 1943 but painstakingly rebuilt afterwards, Chiesa di Sant’Anna rises grandly above a wide staircase in the Stampace district. More impressive outside than in, it’s fronted by a towering two-tier baroque facade topped by a pair of matching bell towers.
Museo del Tesoro e Area Archeologica di Sant'EulaliaMUSEUM
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; %070 66 37 24; www.mutseu.org; Vico del Collegio 2; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun)
In the heart of the Marina district, this museum contains a rich collection of religious art, as well as an archaeological area beneath the adjacent Chiesa di Sant’ Eulalia. The main drawcard is a 13m section of excavated Roman road (constructed between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD), which archaeologists think would have connected with the nearby port.
In the upstairs treasury you’ll find all sorts of religious artefacts, ranging from exquisite priests’ vestments and silverware through to medieval codices and other precious documents. Fine wooden sculptures abound, along with an Ecce homo painting, depicting Christ, front and back, after his flagellation. The painting has been attributed to a 17th-century Flemish artist.
Chiesa di Santo SepolcroCHURCH
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; Piazza del Santo Sepolcro 5; h10am-noon & 5-7pm)
The most astonishing feature of this church is an enormous 17th-century gilded wooden altarpiece housing a figure of the Virgin Mary. From the church, stairs lead down to the crypt, a creepy grotto consisting of two cave-like rooms gouged out of bare rock. In one you'll find a skull and crossbones on the wall.
Cripta di Santa RestitutaCRYPT
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; %070 667 01 68; Via Sant’Efisio 14; adult/reduced €2/1; h10am-1pm)
This crypt has been in use since pre-Christian times. It’s a huge, eerie, natural cavern where the echo of leaking water drip-drips. Originally a place of pagan worship, it became the home of the martyr Restituta in the 5th century and a reference point for Cagliari’s early Christians. The Orthodox Christians then took it over – you can still see remnants of their frescoes – until the 13th century, when it was abandoned.
In WWII the crypt was used as an air-raid shelter, a task it wasn’t up to, since many died while holed up here in February 1943. It’s interesting to make out the wartime graffiti that covers the walls.
Chiesa di Sant’EfisioCHURCH
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; Via Sant’Efisio; hclosed to the public)
Despite its unassuming facade, the Chiesa di Sant’Efisio is of considerable local importance – not for any artistic or architectural reasons but rather for its ties to St Ephisius, Cagliari’s patron saint. A Roman soldier who converted to Christianity and was later beheaded for refusing to recant his faith, St Ephisius is the star of the city’s big 1 May festivities. The effigy of the saint that is paraded around the city on a beautifully ornate carozza (carriage) is kept here.
Over the centuries, the saint has stood the city in good stead, saving the populace from the plague in 1652 – when the church got its marble makeover – and repelling Napoleon’s fleet in 1793 by stirring up the storm that sent the fleet packing.
At the side of the church is the entrance to the crypt where St Ephisius was supposedly held before being executed in Nora (near Pula). It’s marked in stone – Carcer Sancti Ephysii M (Prison of the Martyr St Ephisius) – and retains the column where Ephisius was tied during his incarceration.
DON'T MISS
VILLASIMIUS BEACHES
Villasimius boasts some of Sardinia's finest beaches. The easiest to get to is Spiaggia Simius, which is walkable from the town centre along Viale Matteotti. Further to the south is Cala Giunco, a fabulous strip of sand on the seaward side of the Stagno Notteri ( GOOGLE MAP ). On the other side of the peninsula, north of the Porto Turistico, Spiaggia del Riso and the smaller Spiaggia Campulongu are also popular hang-outs.
Anfiteatro RomanoARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Viale Sant'Ignazio da Laconi)
Cagliari’s most significant Roman monument is this 2nd-century amphitheatre. Currently resembling a messy construction site (it's closed for restoration), the structure is carved into the rocky flank of the Buon Cammino hill, near the northern entrance to Il Castello. Over the centuries much of the original theatre has been cannibalised for building material, but enough survives to stir the imagination.
In its heyday, crowds of up to 10,000 people – practically the entire population of Cagliari – would gather in the steeply stacked stands to watch gladiators battle each other and the occasional wild animal.
Orto BotanicoGARDENS
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; %070 675 35 22; www.ccb-sardegna.it; Viale Sant'Ignazio da Laconi 11; adult/reduced €4/2; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun summer, to 2pm winter)
Established in 1858, the Orto Botanico is one of Italy’s most famous botanical gardens. Today it extends over 5 hectares and nurtures 2000 species of flora. Leafy arches lead to trickling fountains and gardens bristling with palm trees, cacti and ficus trees with huge snaking roots.
Specimens from as far afield as Asia, Australia, Africa and the Americas sidle up to the local carob trees and oaks. Littering the gardens are a Punic cistern, a Roman quarry and an aqueduct.
Basilica di San SaturninoBASILICA
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; Piazza San Cosimo; h9am-7pm Sat & 1st Sun of month)
One of the oldest churches in Sardinia, the Basilica di San Saturnino is a striking example of Paleo-Christian architecture. Based on a Greek-cross pattern, the domed basilica was built over a Roman necropolis in the 5th century, on the site where Saturninus, a much-revered local martyr, was buried. According to legend, Saturninus was beheaded in AD 304 during emperor Diocletian’s anti-Christian pogroms.
In the 6th century San Fulgenzio da Ruspe, a bishop in exile from Tunisia, built a monastery here. In 1098 this was reworked into the current Romanesque church by a group of Vittorini monks from Marseille. Since then the basilica has undergone various refurbishments, most notably after it was stripped in 1662 to provide building material for the Cattedrale di Santa Maria and, more recently, after it sustained severe bomb damage in WWII.
ExmàCULTURAL CENTRE
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; %070 66 63 99; www.exmacagliari.com; Via San Lucifero 71; admission varies, typically €3-5; h10am-1pm & 4-9pm Tue-Sun summer, 9am-1pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sun winter)
Housed in Cagliari’s 18th-century mattatoio (abattoir) – hence the sculpted cow's head over the entrance and around the internal courtyard – Exmà is a delightful cultural centre. Check the website for details of its varied program of events, performances, concerts and exhibitions.
Cittadella dei MuseiAREA
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Cagliari's main museum complex occupies the site of the city's former arsenal at the northern end of the Castello district. It's home to several museums, including the Museo Archeologico Nazionale and Pinacoteca Nazionale, as well as several university departments.
Museo del DuomoMUSEUM
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; %333 594 85 49; www.museoduomodicagliari.it; Via del Fossario 5; adult/reduced €4/2.50; h10am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm Sat & Sun)
Treasures from the Cattedrale di Santa Maria are displayed at this compact museum just around the corner from the cathedral. One standout is the 15th-century Trittico di Clemente VII, which was moved here from the cathedral for safe keeping. This precious painting in oil on timber has been attributed to either the Flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden or to one of his disciples. Another important work is the 16th-century Retablo dei Beneficiati, produced by the school of Pietro Cavaro.
Palazzo CivicoHISTORIC BUILDING
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; %070 677 80 14; Via Roma)
Overlooking Piazza Matteotti, the neo-Gothic Palazzo Civico, also known as the Municipio, is home to Cagliari’s municipal council as well as the city's tourist office. Capricious, pompous and at the time of research half-covered by scaffolding, it was built between 1899 and 1913, and faithfully reconstructed after bombing in 1943. The upstairs chambers contain works by a number of Sardinian artists, including Pietro Cavaro. Admission is by appointment only.
Villa di TigellioARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
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; www.beniculturalicagliari.it; Via Carbonazzi; adult/reduced €2/1; h9am-5pm)
These remains of three Roman houses date to the 1st century BC. Legend has it that Tigellio Ermogene – a famous Sardinian poet and musician, and a close a friend of Julius Caesar – lived here. Today the ruins are pretty overgrown and surrounded by houses, so you’ll need to use your imagination to picture the magnificent mosaics, columns and baths that once stood here.
Chiesa di San LuciferoCHURCH
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; %070 65 69 96; Via San Lucifero 78; hclosed to the public)
Below this baroque church is a 6th-century crypt where the tomb of the early Archbishop of Cagliari, St Lucifer, rests. In earlier times the area had been part of a Roman burial ground. The church is rarely open, but its austere 17th-century facade is worth a quick look from the outside.
Castello di San MicheleCASTLE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 50 06 56; Via Sirai; adult/reduced €3/2; h10am-1pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun summer, 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun winter)
Lifted by a hill high above the city, this stout three-tower Spanish fortress northwest of the centre commands incredible city and sea views. Set in serene grounds, the 10th-century castle was built to protect Santa Igia, capital of the Giudicato of Cagliari, but is most famous as the luxurious residence of the 14th-century Carroz family. It now hosts exhibitions and cultural events. To get here, take bus 5 from Via Roma to the foot of the hill and then walk 800m to the castle.
MEMCULTURAL CENTRE
(Mediateca del Mediterranea;
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Via Mameli 164; hcafe 8.30am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 3am Sat & Sun)
Opened in 2011, this contemporary glass and steel pavilion has given a new lease of life to a former food market. It's now a cultural complex housing two libraries, the city's historical archives and the Sardinian film library. As a visitor, the main attraction is the structure itself, but its cafe is a popular place to while away an hour or two on a slow afternoon.
Giardino Sotto Le MurePARK
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Viale Regina Elena; h7am-9pm winter, longer hours summer)
A small strip of park in the shadows of the Castello's mighty walls, this 500m-long green space is home to seven works by leading Sardinian sculptor Pinuccio Sciola. You'll also find the lift up to the Bastione di Saint Remy.
Palazzo di CittàMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 677 64 82; www.museicivicicagliari.it; Piazza Palazzo 6; adult/reduced €4/2.50; h10am-9pm Tue-Sun summer, to 6pm winter)
Cagliari's town hall from medieval times to the 19th century, the beautifully restored Palazzo di Città has been converted into a small museum. It contains a well-edited collection of Sardinian textiles, ceramics, paintings and engravings. The basement level displays contemporary art.
Museo d'Arte SiameseMUSEUM
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 18 88; www.museicivicicagliari.it; Piazza Arsenale; adult/reduced €2/1; h10am-8pm Tue-Sun, to 6pm winter)
Cagliari’s medieval heart is an unlikely place for a collection of Asian art, but that’s exactly what you'll find here. Donated to the city by local engineer Stefano Cardu, who had spent many years in Thailand, the collection is highly eclectic. Alongside Ming- and Qing-era Chinese porcelain vases, there are silk paintings, Japanese statuettes, Burmese sculpture and some truly terrifying Thai weapons.
MUSEUM PASS
If you're planning on visiting more than one of Cagliari's Musei Civici (Civic Museums), consider investing in a museum pass (adult/reduced €8/4). Valid for seven days, the pass covers admission to the Galleria Comunale d'Arte, the Museo d'Arte Siamese and Palazzo di Città.
A second, more extensive week pass (€13) is also available, covering the above mentioned museums as well as the Torre dell'Elefante, Torre di San Pancrazio, Villa di Tigellio, Cripta di Santa Restituta and Grotta della Vipera.
For further details see www.museicivicicagliari.it.
Ghetto degli EbreiAREA
(Jewish Ghetto; MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Cagliari's medieval Ghetto degli Ebrei was situated in the cramped area between Via Santa Croce and Via Stretta. The city's Jewry lived here until they were expelled from Sardinia by the island's Spanish rulers in 1492. Today virtually nothing remains of the Ghetto except its name, applied to a restored former barracks, the Centro Comunale d’Arte e Cultura Il Ghetto (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 667 01 90; Via Santa Croce 18; adult/reduced €3/2; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm Tue-Sun), which hosts temporary exhibitions.
In the wake of the Jewish expulsion, the Basilica di Santa Croce (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazzetta Santa Croce; h9am-noon & 4-7pm) was built over the ghetto’s former synagogue.
2Activities
Not surprisingly, water sports are big at Poetto beach, where you can generally hire canoes at the beach clubs. Offshore, the Golfo di Cagliari is littered with the wrecks of WWII ships, which makes it an excellent place for divers to explore.
Windsurfing Club CagliariWATER SPORTS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 37 26 94; www.windsurfingclubcagliari.org; Viale Marina Piccola; 6-lesson surfing/windsurfing/catamaran course €120/180/220)
From its base at Marina Piccola, this centre offers a range of water-sports courses. Special courses with reduced rates are available for children aged six to 15. See the website for details.
Harry S ToursBOATING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %338 377 40 51; www.harrystours.com; half-day cruise €45, full day incl lunch €85)
Operating out of Marina di Capitana, 14km east of Cagliari, this outfit offers a range of boat tours, including day and half-day cruises, sunset sails, even a wine-tasting jaunt.
BoardwalkPROMENADE
( MAP GOOGLE MAP )
Cagliari's seafront boardwalk offers breezy views back to the Marina district as it hugs the waterfront from Molo Ichnusa to Su Siccu. It's a relaxed place for a jog, stroll or bike ride away from the buzz of the city centre.
WORTH A TRIP
A WALK IN THE WOODS
A world away from the urban hustle of Cagliari, the Monte dei Sette Fratelli ( GOOGLE MAP ) is the highest point of the remote Sarrabus district. Its granite peaks and woodlands bristling with cork and holm oak, juniper, oleander and myrtle are a haven to wild boar, hawks and golden eagles, and it’s one of only three remaining redoubts of the cervo sardo (Sardinian deer). Accessible by the SS125, it offers some magnificent hiking, with routes ranging from straightforward strolls to a tough 12km ascent of Punta Sa Ceraxa (1016m).
You can pick up a trekking map from the Caserma Forestale Campu Omu, a forestry corps station near the Burcei turn-off on the SS125.
From Burcei, a lonely road crawls 8km up to Punta Serpeddi (1067m), from where you can gaze out across the whole Sarrabus to Cagliari and the sea.
CCourses
One World Language CentreLANGUAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 67 02 34; www.oneworldcagliari.com; Viale Regina Margherita 6; 1-week course €199, plus subscription fee €60, individual lessons per hr €30)
Brush up your Italian with a course at this reputable language school, which takes an interactive approach and offers lessons for all levels. The centre can help arrange homestays (from €210 per week) and apartment rooms (from €160 per week).
L’AccademiaLANGUAGE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %328 8811464; www.laccademia.com; Via San Giovanni 34; 15/20hr course €230/260, individual class per hr €35)
This school takes a hands-on approach to learning Italian, offering the chance to combine language skills with cultural immersion activities such as city tours, Italian movie screenings and traditional Sardinian dinners.
WORTH A TRIP
SAN SPERATE
San Sperate, a small town just over 20km northwest of Cagliari, is worth a quick detour for its colourful murals. These present a Daliesque tableau of traditional country life as well as depicting more modern urban trends (skateboards stretching down a wall like an array of colourful tongues). Check out Pinuccio Sciola's epic Storia di San Sperate ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sassari, San Sperate) (History of San Sperate) and the surreal pop-art works on Via Concordia and Via Decimo.
If you're in need of a break, Ada (
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 960 09 72; Via Cagliari 21, San Sperate; meals €30-35; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat) is a fine Sardinian restaurant serving antipasto of crudi (raw seafood), homemade pasta with truffles, local wine and artisanal beer.
Hourly buses serve San Sperate from Cagliari (€1.90, 30 minutes).
TTours
Sardinia Tourist GuideTOURS
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %349 4558367; www.sardiniatouristguide.it; 3½hr tour for 2-4 people €200)
Based in Selargius, 12km northeast of town, these expert guides run tours of Cagliari, which takes in highlights including Poetto beach, Sella del Diavola (Devil’s Saddle), Basilica di Bonaria and Il Castello. Archaeological tours (such as to Nora) and outdoor excursions such as canyoning in the Flumendosa and trekking on Monte Corrasi can also be arranged.
WORTH A TRIP
CALLING ALL BIRDWATCHERS
The protected reed-fringed wetlands of the Parco Naturale Regionale Molentargius (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.parcomolentargius.it; h6.30am-9pm summer, 7am-6pm winter) lie slightly east of Cagliari towards Quartu Sant’Elena. A housing estate forms an incongruous backdrop to these freshwater and brackish pools, which attract nesting, migrant and wintering birds in their thousands. With a little luck you may well spot pink flamingos, purple herons, little egrets, marsh harriers, sandwich terns and black-winged stilts from the observation points.
The reserve is best explored on foot or by bicycle. Before heading out you can get information at the InfoPoint (
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 3791 9201; www.parcomolentargius.it; Edificio Sali Scelti, Via La Palma; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8.30pm Sat & Sun) on the eastern fringes of town. Dawn and dusk are prime-time viewing for twitchers.
zFestivals & Events
Cagliari puts on a good show for Carnevale, generally in February, and during the Easter Holy Week, when hooded processions pass by its historic churches. The city's main headline event, though, is the Festa di Sant'Efisio, held each year in May.
Festa di Sant’EfisioRELIGIOUS
(www.festadisantefisio.com; h1-4 May)
Visitors descend in droves for this saintly celebration in May. On the opening day the effigy of St Ephisius, Cagliari’s patron saint, is taken from the Chiesa di Sant'Efisio and paraded through the streets on a bullock-drawn carriage before being carried to Nora, 40km away, and back again. Tickets for the stands (€15 to €25) are sold at Box Office Tickets (
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 74 28; www.boxofficesardegna.it; Viale Regina Margherita 43; h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Mon-Fri winter, plus 10am-1pm Sat summer).
Get the best views from the grandstand seating around Piazza Matteotti and Largo Carlo Felice.
Sardegna PridePARADE
(www.sardegnapride.org; hJun)
This colourful, rainbow flag-waving parade fills the seafront streets of Cagliari's Marina district in late June.
WORTH A TRIP
POETTO BEACH
An easy bus ride from the city centre, Cagliari’s fabulous Poetto beach ( GOOGLE MAP ) is one of the longest stretches of sand in Italy. Extending 7km beyond the green Promontorio di Sant’Elia, it’s an integral part of city life, particularly in summer when much of the city’s youth decamps here to sunbathe by day and party by night. The long, sandy strip is lined with bars, snack joints and restaurants, known locally as chioschi (kiosks), many of which also act as stabilmenti balneari (private beach clubs). These offer various facilities, including showers and changing cabins, and rent out beach gear (prices start at around €15 for an umbrella and two sunloungers).
The southern end of the beach is the most popular, with its picturesque Marina Piccola. Looming over the marina is the craggy Promontorio di Sant’ Elia, known as the Sella del Diavola (Devil’s Saddle). According to local legend, the headland was the scene of an epic battle between Lucifer and the Archangel Michael. In the course of the struggle Satan was thrown off his horse and his saddle fell into the sea where it eventually petrified atop what was to become the headland. Although much of the headland is now owned by the military and closed to the public, you can access it via a scenic walking path.
To get to Poetto hop on bus PF or PQ from Piazza Matteotti.
5Eating
It’s not difficult to eat well in Cagliari. The city offers everything from classy fine-dining restaurants to humble neighbourhood trattorias, pizzerias, bars and takeaways. Marina is chock-full of places, some of which are obviously touristy but many that are not and are popular with locals. Other good eat streets include Via Sassari and Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
EATING ON THE HOOF
For a delicious packed lunch go into one of the neighbourhood salumerie (delicatessens) and ask for a thick cut of pecorino sardo (Sardinian pecorino cheese) and a slice or two of prosciutto (ham) in a freshly baked panino (bread roll).
DulcisPASTRIES€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 67 40 43; www.dulcispasticceria.it; Via Baylle 25; cake €2.50; h7.30am-midnight summer, 8am-11pm winter)
For a taste of traditional Sardinian cakes and pastries, Dulcis is the place to go. Part shop, part cafe, part wine bar, it's a lovely spot to relax over tea and a slice of pan di sapa (a sticky island speciality made with almonds, honey, orange peel and raisins). There's also a carefully selected choice of island wines you can sample.
StefinoGELATERIA€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Via Dettori 30; gelato €1.50-5.40; hnoon-11.30pm Thu-Mon, to 9pm Tue & Wed; 
v)
This organic gelateria is ideally placed for a mid-afternoon treat or post-dinner dessert. There's not a huge choice but quality is high and there are some exciting flavours including ginger-infused chocolate and pear and cinnamon.
Pizzeria NansenPIZZA€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 667 03 35; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 269; pizzas €5-10; h11.30am-2.30pm & 6.30-11.30pm Tue-Sun)
For a slice of delizioso pizza and a cool bottle of Ichnusa (Sardinian beer), head to this super-friendly pizzeria. The pizzas, served ready cut on a tray, are finger-lickingly good with light fluffy bases and flavour-packed toppings, and the setting – high stools, paper napkins and framed Roma football shirts (!) – is suitably relaxed.
L’OpozITALIAN€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 858 48 94; www.facebook.com/lopozrestaurant; Via Giardini 145; meals €20-25; h7pm-2am Wed-Mon)
Snuggled away north of the centre in the Villanova district, this artsy, red-walled bistro-pub is a chilled pick for a Guinness and a bite to eat – the tagliata (steak) stands out, but it also knocks up simple pasta dishes, hamburgers and salads.
Trattoria Ci Pensa CannasSARDINIAN€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 66 78 15; www.cipensacannas.it; Via Sardegna 37; meals €19-25; hnoon-3pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat)
A trattoria from the traditional no-frills school. It's far from a looker with its bright white lighting and basic decor, but the welcome is genuine and the food modestly priced and generous, be it pasta dishes like gnocchetti alla campidanese (Sardinian gnocchi with a tomato and sausage sauce), steaks or seafood.
oLa PolaSEAFOOD€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 06 04; Vico Barcellona 10; meals €30; h7-11pm Mon-Sat, plus 1-3pm Sat & Sun)
There are many seafood restaurants in the Marina district but few bring in the crowds like this local favourite. To look at, it's nothing out of the ordinary with its murals and orange and yellow walls, but once the food starts arriving you'll appreciate why it's so often packed: multi-dish starters, luxurious lobster mains, beautifully seared tuna.
oLuigi PomataSEAFOOD€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 67 20 58; www.luigipomata.com; Viale Regina Margherita 14; meals restaurant €40-50, bistrot €25-30; h1-3pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat)
There's always a buzz at chef Luigi Pomata's minimalist seafood restaurant, with pared-down decor and chefs skilfully preparing super-fresh sushi. For a more casual eating experience, try the Pomata Bistrot, beneath the main restaurant, where you can dine on dishes such as stuffed squid with broccoli cream in a tranquil, relaxed setting.
Da Marino al St RemySARDINIAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 73 77; www.stremy.it; Via Torino 16; meals €40; h1-2.30pm & 8-10.30pm Mon-Sat)
Tucked away on a side street, St Remy keeps the mood intimate in a vaulted, lime-washed space with stone arches. The menu puts a creative spin on Sardinian flavours, with homemade pasta preluding mains like grilled beef with herb butter or fish of the day with cream of broccoli and anchovies – all cooked to a T and presented with panache.
Per BaccoSARDINIAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 16 67; www.enoperbacco.it; Via Santa Restituta 72; meals €25-35; h8.30-11.30pm Tue-Sat)
Hidden in the alleys of Stampace is this friendly restaurant, with stone walls, cheek-by-jowl tables and a refined, low-key atmosphere. Chef-owner Sabrina allows ingredients to shine in her simple, seasonally focused dishes. Start with, say, stewed octopus and creamed potatoes, and follow up with a primo such as fregola sarda ai sapori di mare (semolina pasta with seafood).
Martinelli’sITALIAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 42 20; www.martinellis.it; Via Principe Amedeo 18; meals from €35; h8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Simplicity is the ethos underpinning this intimate, subtly lit bistro in the Marina district. Service is friendly without being overbearing, and the menu plays up seasonal, winningly fresh seafood along the lines of tagliolini (flat spaghetti) with octopus ink and sea bass cooked in Vernaccia wine.
Antica CagliariSARDINIAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 734 01 98; www.anticacagliari.it; Via Sardegna 49; meals €30-40; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11.30pm)
A cut above most restaurants in the Marina district, this vaulted restaurant always has a good buzz. Diners come for its traditional seafood, which stars in dishes such as spaghetti vongole e bottarga (with clams and mullet roe) and sea bass cooked with Vermentino white wine, olives and laurel. Reserve ahead for one of the few outdoor tables.
CrackersITALIAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 39 12; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 195; meals €40; h12.45-3pm & 8-11.30pm Thu-Tue)
A corner of Piedmont in Sardinia, Crackers specialises in northern Italian cuisine with a wide range of risottos, including a classic risotto al Barolo (risotto with Barolo wine), and a selection of steaks and traditional meat dishes. There's also seafood and a thoughtfully curated wine list.
Ristorante AmmentosSARDINIAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 10 75; Via Sassari 120; fixed-price menu €15-30; h1-3pm & 8-11pm Wed-Mon)
Dine on authentic southern Sardinian fare in rustic surrounds at this traditional old-school trattoria. Malloreddus (typical Sardinan gnocchi) with gorgonzola cheese is a delicious lead to succulent meat dishes such as wild pork and sausages.
Fork Easy RestaurantRISTORANTE€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 664318; www.stefanodeidda.it; Viale Regina Margherita 28; fixed-price lunch menu €15, meals €35-40; h12.45-3pm & 7.45-11pm Tue-Sun)
The younger and less formal sibling of Dal Corsaro, Fork Easy is the brainchild of Michelin-starred chef Stefano Deidda. An elegant, soberly styled restaurant, it serves modern Italian fare with an onus on fresh seafood. For a taste, the €15 lunch menu is an outstanding bargain.
Sa PiolaSARDINIAN€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 66 67 14; www.sapiolaristorante.it; Vico Santa Margherita 3; meals €35-40; hnoon-4pm & 7.30pm-midnight)
Classical Sardinian cooking is celebrated at this rustic backstreet restaurant near Piazza Yenne. A menu highlight is prize bue rosso beef which is married with Cannonau and Vermentino wines to make meatballs and hearty stews. Seafood and seasonal vegetables also appear in various tasty guises.
Taverna dai MattiRISTORANTE€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 66 64 37; www.tavernadaimatti.it; Via Sardegna 44; meals €30-35; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-10.30pm)
One of the better places on the Marina district's main restaurant strip, the Taverna sets itself apart with a bright minimalist look and casual vibe. The menu is similarly modern, and although dishes can be a bit hit and miss, there are some wonderful creations, including a flavoursome ravioli with burrata, sea urchins and artichoke.
Man.GiaPIZZA€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 204 19 50; www.mangiasenzaglutine.it; Via Mameli 196; pizzas €4-11, meals €25-30; h6.30pm-midnight Tue-Sat)
Waving the flag for gluten-free dining, Man.Gia does a roaring trade in pizzas, as well as serving a short menu of uncomplicated pastas and main courses. The look and vibe are laid-back, and they even do gluten-free beer.
Dal CorsaroRISTORANTE€€€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 66 43 18; www.stefanodeidda.it; Viale Regina Margherita 28; fixed-price menus €70-80; h7.45-11pm Tue-Sun)
One of only two Michelin-starred restaurants in Sardinia, Dal Corsaro has long been a bastion of high-end culinary creativity. Calling the shots is chef Stefano Deidda whose artistic brand of cuisine marries technical brilliance with a passion for seasonal Sardinian ingredients. Typical of his style is his maialino da latte, topinambur e aglio (roast pork with Jerusalem artichoke and garlic). Bookings required.
DON'T MISS
FAVOURITE SNACK SPOTS
Le Patate & CoFAST FOOD€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Scalette San Sepolcro 1; meals €10; h11.30am-3pm & 6pm-midnight)
If you get the urge for something uncomplicated, head to this fast-food joint for a satisfying fill-up of fried snacks. Sit on the terrace at the top of the steps and choose between fish 'n' chips, mozzarella balls, battered vegetables or fried seafood.
Isola del GelatoGELATO€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza Yenne 35; ice cream €1.50-4; h7am-2am)
A hugely popular hang-out on Piazza Yenne. Join the young crowd to linger over a drink and gelato, semifreddo or sorbet.
Gocce di Gelato e CioccolatoGELATO€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza del Carmine 21; gelato €1.70-4.50; hnoon-10pm Mon-Fri, to 11pm Sat, 10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-10pm Sun, longer hours summer)
Stop by for divine handmade gelati, desserts (try the millefeuille), spice-infused pralines and truffles.
Locanda CaddeoITALIAN€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 68 04 91; www.facebook.com/locandacaddeocagliari; Via Sassari 75; meals €5-20; hnoon-3.30pm & 6.30-11pm Mon-Sat)
A cool, gallery-style eatery that hums at lunchtime as shoppers, students, visitors and business folk pack into its black, glass-plated interior to chat over focaccias, sliced pizza, grilled steaks and freshly prepared salads. Takeaway available.
I Sapori dell’IsolaDELI€
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Via Sardegna 50; h7.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
It's all in the name – 'Island Flavours'. This friendly deli specialises in top-quality Sardinian delicacies: breads, pastries, cured meats, cheeses, olive oils, wine and bottarga (cured dried mullet roe that's generally grated onto pasta dishes).
6Drinking & Nightlife
Head up to Il Castello for sundowners with a dress-circle view of Cagliari. Elsewhere, there's plenty of bar action on buzzy Piazza Yenne and nearby Corso Vittorio Emanuele, and in the busy lanes of Marina. In summer the party scene shifts to the bars and seafront joints at Poetto beach.
oCucina eatWINE BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 099 10 98; www.shopcucina.it; Piazza Gallileo Galilei 1; h10.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat)
A bookshop, a bar, a bistrot? Cucina eat is pretty much all these things with its central bar and ceiling-high shelves stocked with wines, olive oils, cookbooks and kitchen gadgets, all of which are available to buy. Cool and relaxed, it's a fine spot to spend an evening over a bottle of wine and a light meal (around €20 to €25).
oCaffè Libarium NostrumBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %346 5220212; Via Santa Croce 33; h7.30am-2am Tue-Sun)
Offering some of the best views in town, this modish Castello bar has panoramic seating on top of the city’s medieval ramparts. If the weather’s being difficult, make for the brick-lined interior and order yourself an Alligator, a formidable cocktail of Calvados and Drambuie created in honour of the hero of Massimo Carlotto’s novels.
Antico CaffèCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; www.anticocaffe1855.it; Piazza Costituzione 10; h7am-2am)
DH Lawrence and Grazia Deledda once frequented this grand old cafe, which opened its doors in 1855. Locals come to chat over leisurely coffees, crêpes and salads. There’s a pavement terrace, or you can settle inside amid the polished wood, marble and brass.
EmersonLOUNGE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 37 51 94; www.emersoncagliari.it; Viale Poetto 4; h9am-1am summer, 10am-5pm winter)
A swank beachside hang-out, Emerson is one of the more glamorous of the chioschi that line the seafront at Poetto. Part cocktail lounge, part restaurant and part beach club, it dishes up everything from pasta to aperitivi, live music and sunloungers. It's near the fourth bus stop on the beach access road.
Caffè SvizzeroCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 37 84; Largo Carlo Felice 6; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat)
At the bottom of Largo Carlo Felice, this Liberty-style place has been a stalwart of Cagliari cafe society since the early 20th century. Anything from tea to cappuccinos and cocktails is on offer in its polished wood and brick-vaulted interior.
TiffanyCAFE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 732 47 87; Via Baylle 133; h6am-9pm Mon-Sat)
The outside tables at this handsome brick-vaulted cafe are the place to be for an early evening aperitif. Come around 6.30pm and you'll find every seat taken as Cagliari's fashionable drinkers congregate to catch up on gossip, sip on spritz and look beautiful.
Hop CornerPUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 67 31 58; www.hopcornerbirreria.com; Via Principe Amedeo 14; h7pm-1am Tue-Sat)
This vaulted pub carved out of rock is an atmospheric spot for speciality craft beers and ales, which pair nicely with the excellent hamburgers and platters of local cheeses and cured meats. It hosts occasional live music evenings with a retro vibe.
InuWINE BAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 667 04 14; www.inusardinianwinebar.it; Via Sassari 50; h7pm-1am Tue-Sun)
Get versed in Sardinian wine at this contemporary, high-ceilinged wine bar, which pairs throaty Cannonau reds and tangy Vermentino whites with platters of top-quality Sardinian cured meats and cheeses, prepared at the well-stocked counter.
Caffè degli SpiritiBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 311 03 73; www.facebook.com/caffedeglispiriti; Bastione San Remy; h10am-2am)
This long-standing lounge bar boasts alfresco seating on the panoramic Bastione di Saint Remy, one of Cagliari's prize locations. Recently reopened after the Bastione's long restoration, it sets a memorable stage for lingering over cool summer drinks.
Il Merlo ParlantePUB
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %333 9774573; Via Portoscalas 69; h8pm-3am)
One for beer fans, this is an unpretentious, no-frills pub, little changed over the past two decades. It has a fine selection of guest beers, bottled and on tap, and tasty panini to go with them. Expect basic wooden tables and boisterous, happy drinkers.
Caffè dell’ElfoBAR
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 68 23 99; www.facebook.com/elfo.caffe; Salita Santa Chiara 4-6; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat)
Named after the elves that populate its small, stone-clad interior, this relaxed wine bar is a popular evening hang-out, serving decent cocktails and a small food menu.
WORTH A TRIP
SERDIANA
oCantine ArgiolasWINE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 74 06 06; www.argiolas.it; Via Roma 28-30, Serdiana; tour with tasting €13-28; henoteca 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
S
A pretty but otherwise undistinguished agricultural town about 25km north of Cagliari, Serdiana is home to one of Sardinia’s most celebrated wine producers, the award-winning Cantine Argiolas. You can stock up at the winery's enoteca or, with more time, take a guided tour. There are several to choose from, including a 1½-hour visit with tastings and a two-hour tour of local vineyards (€20). Cookery lessons are also available for €90 to €95 per person. Reservations required.
By car, take the SS554 north from Cagliari and after about 10km follow the SS387 for Dolianova. After another 10km take the turn-off for Serdiana. Alternatively, there are regular ARST buses (€2.60, 45 minutes).
3Entertainment
Cagliari has a lively performance scene, comprising classical music, dance, opera and drama. The season generally runs from October to May, although some places also offer a summer line-up of events. For information on up-coming events ask at the tourist office, check online at Box Office Tickets, or pick up a copy of the local newspaper L’Unione Sarda.
Teatro LiricoTHEATRE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 408 22 30; www.teatroliricodicagliari.it; Via Sant’Alenixedda)
This is Cagliari’s premier venue for classical music, opera and ballet. The line-up is fairly traditional but quality is high and concerts are well attended. Tickets range range from €10 to €35 for concerts, from €15 to €75 for opera and ballet.
MASSIMO CARLOTTO'S ALLIGATOR
Massimo Carlotto’s life reads like the plot of one of his crime novels because, quite simply, it is the plot of one of his books.
At 19, during Italy’s ‘years of lead’, he witnessed the murder of Margherita Magello, a 25-year-old student who was stabbed 59 times. The events that followed became the novel Il Fuggiasco (The Fugitive). Covered in Magello’s blood, Carlotto ran to get the police, who accused him of the killing. He was subsequently sentenced to 18 years’ imprisonment. In 1993, after an international campaign, he was released with a full pardon from the president of Italy.
While in prison, Carlotto found the true-life material for the explicit crime novels he now writes. His most famous series is the Alligator, which Carlotto claims was developed from real legal cases.
The protagonist is loosely modelled on Carlotto himself; he even drives the Škoda Carlotto once drove (because many people say it is the least-stopped car in Italy). The nickname comes from the character’s (and Carlotto’s) favourite cocktail – seven parts Calvados to three parts Drambuie, crushed ice and a slice of apple – invented by a barman at the Caffè Libarium Nostrum in Cagliari, where Carlotto now lives. The cocktail’s fame has since spread to bars in Rome, Milan and Naples. It’s said that nobody can drink more than four.
Several of Carlotto’s books have been translated into English, including Gang of Lovers (2015), Band Love (2010), The Fugitive (2008), Death’s Dark Abyss (2007) and The Goodbye Kiss (2006).
7Shopping
Cagliari has a refreshing absence of overtly touristy souvenir shops, although they do exist. Style-conscious shoppers will find plenty to browse on Via Giuseppe Manno and Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. Nearby Via Sulis is another good area with several fashion boutiques and jewellery stores. You’ll also find various artisanal shops tucked away, particularly in the Marina district. Sunday is best for flea market and antique finds.
oDurkeFOOD
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %347 2246858; www.durke.com; Via Napoli 66; h10.30am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat)
In Sardinian, durke means ‘sweet’, and they don’t come sweeter than this delightful old-fashioned store. Its dolci (sweets) are all made according to age-old recipes, often with nothing more than sugar, egg whites and almonds. Indulge in fruit-and-nut papassinos, moist amaretti di sardegna biscuits and pardulas (delicate ricotta cheesecakes flavoured with saffron).
oMercato di San BenedettoMARKET
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Via San Francesco Cocco Ortu; h7am-2pm Mon-Sat)
Cagliari's historic morning food market is exactly what a thriving market should be – busy, noisy and packed with fresh, fabulous produce: fish, salami, heavy clusters of grapes, pecorino the size of wagon wheels, steaks, sushi, you name it.
Cagliari AntiquariaANTIQUES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza del Carmine; h8am-2pm 1st, 2nd & 4th Sun of month)
Three Sundays a month, Cagliaritani go bargain hunting at Cagliari Antiquaria, an antique and collectors market on Piazza del Carmine.
Enoteca Biondi 1959WINE
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 667 04 26; www.enotecabiondi.it; Viale Regina Margherita 83; h10am-1.30pm daily & 5-9.30pm Mon-Sat)
One of Cagliari's best stocked bottle shops, Enoteca Biondi sells wine and beer from all over the world, as well as a selection of Italian gourmet specialities: balsamic vinegar from Modena, Sicilian torrone (nougat), conserves, cheeses and truffles.
BistimentasCLOTHING
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 289 20 74; www.facebook.com/bistimentas; Vico Barcellona 16; h10.30am-1pm & 5.30-8.30pm, closed Wed morning & Sun)
Add a touch of Sardinian style to your wardrobe with a trip to Bistimentas. The shop is a celebration of island costumes and customs with everything from corduroy jackets and woollen waistcoats to masks, bags and embroidered dresses, all made by island artisans.
IntrecciARTS & CRAFTS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 332 87 08; www.intrecciart.com; Viale Regina Margherita 63; h10am-1pm & 4.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
There are plenty of souvenir shops in Cagliari but this airy showroom is a cut above them all. It showcases a range of products made by island artisans, including hand-crafted jewellery, paintings, ceramic work and objets d'art.
Love RetròFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 800 50 25; www.loveretro.it; Via Sulis 26; h10am-1pm Tue-Sat & 5-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
Local designer Alice Tolu displays her vintage-inspired fashions at her chic boutique on trendy Via Sulis. Alongside her seasonal creations, you'll find a range of elegant accessories and jewels carefully selected to complement the clothes.
Sapori di SardegnaFOOD & DRINKS
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 684 87 47; www.saborescagliari.com; Via dei Mille 1; h9.30am-1pm & 3.30-8.30pm Mon-Sat)
Roberto, his brother and their enthusiastic team do a brisk trade in glorious Sardinian food at this breezy Marina emporium. Stop by for the finest pecorino, salami, bottarga (mullet roe), bread, wine and prettily packed dolci (sweets). If you’ve got no room in your luggage, staff can arrange to ship orders worldwide.
Sorelle PireddaFASHION & ACCESSORIES
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %334 21 57 266, 349 55 00 528; www.sorellepiredda.com; Piazza San Giuseppe 4; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat)
For haute couture with history, search out this oh-so-stylish Castello boutique. The shop itself is a sight, set over a Punic cistern and ancient Roman streets, but it's the imaginative designs of the Piredda sisters that steal the limelight: slinky evening dresses, capes and intricate shawls inspired by ancient Sardinian motifs and traditional island costumes.
Loredana MandasJEWELLERY
(
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 66 76 48; www.loredanamandas.com; Via Sicilia 31; h9.30am-1pm & 5-8.30pm Mon-Sat summer, 9.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat winter)
For something very special, seek out this jewellery workshop where artisan Loredana Mandas creates the exquisite gold filigree for which Sardinia is so famous. Her designs, which often incorporate precious or semi-precious gemstones, cost from around €220 to €2000 plus.
WORTH A TRIP
MURAVERA'S CITRUS CELEBRATION
On the first or second weekend before Easter, the workaday agricultural centre of Muravera celebrates its fabled citrus fruit crop during the annual Sagra degli Agrumi (Citrus Fair; www.sagradegliagrumi.it; hMar/early Apr). Events include tastings, concerts, workshops and a colourful parade of folk groups from all over Sardinia in their traditional costumes.
ARST runs up to nine buses daily from Cagliari to Muravera (€5.50, 1¾ to three hours). By car, take the SS125 northeast 74km towards Tortoli.
8Information
Guardia MedicaMEDICAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 52 24 58; Via Talete 4; h8pm-8am Mon-Fri, 10am-8am Sat, 8am-8am Sun)
For overnight or weekend non-emergency medical assistance. It's located northeast of the city centre; take bus 1 from the train station (get off at Via Flavio Gioia).
LamarìINTERNET
(
GOOGLE MAP
; Via Napoli 43; per hr €3; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat)
Speedy internet and wi-fi with cheap snacks and drinks on the side.
Ospedale BrotzuHOSPITAL
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 53 92 10; www.aobrotzu.it; Piazzale Ricchi 1)
Hospital with accident and emergency department. It's located northwest of the city centre; take bus 1 from Via Roma if you need to make a non-emergency visit.
Post OfficePOST
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 605 41 64; Piazza del Carmine 27; h8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, to 12.35pm Sat)
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 677 81 73; www.cagliariturismo.it; Via Roma 145, Palazzo Civico; h9am-8pm summer, 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Sat winter)
Helpful English-speaking staff can provide city information and maps. The office is just inside Palazzo Civico's main entrance, on the right.
8Getting There & Away
Air
Cagliari Elmas Airport (
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 21 12 11; www.cagliariairport.it) is 9km northwest of the city centre, near Elmas. Flights connect with mainland Italian cities, including Rome, Milan, Bergamo, Bologna, Florence, Naples, Rome, Turin and Venice. There are also flights to/from European destinations including Barcelona, London, Paris and Frankfurt. In summer, there are additional charter flights.
A number of major international airlines serve Cagliari, such as easyJet, Eurowings and Ryanair, as well as Italy's national carrier Alitalia (%892010; www.alitalia.it) and Meridiana (%892928; www.meridiana.it).
Trains run from the airport to Cagliari station approximately every 20 to 30 minutes between 6.37am and 11.07pm. The journey takes six to 10 minutes; tickets cost €1.30. A taxi will set you back around €20.
Boat
Cagliari’s ferry port (
GOOGLE MAP
) is located just off Via Roma. Tirrenia (
GOOGLE MAP
; %892 123, agency 070 66 95 01; www.tirrenia.it; Via Riva di Ponente 1; hagency 9am-noon Mon-Sat, plus 4-7pm Mon-Wed, 5-8pm Thu, 4.30-7.30pm Fri, 5-7pm Sat) is the main ferry operator serving Cagliari, with year-round services to Civitavecchia (€56–€66 per person with a poltrona seat), Naples (€56–€98 per person) and Palermo (€58–€70 per person). Book tickets at the port agency, online or at travel agencies.
Bus
From the main bus station (
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza Matteotti) , ARST (Azienda Regionale Sarda Trasporti; %800 865042; www.arst.sardegna.it) buses serve Pula (€3.10, 50 minutes, hourly), Chia (€3.70, 1¼ hours, up to 10 daily) and Villasimius (€4.30, 1½ hours, at least six daily), as well as Oristano (€6.70, two hours, two daily), Nuoro (€12.50, 2¾ hours, two daily) and Iglesias (€4.30, 1½ hours, daily weekdays).
Turmo Travel (%0789 2 14 87; www.gruppoturmotravel.com) has services to Olbia (€16.50, 4½ hours, twice daily) and Santa Teresa di Gallura (€19.50, 5½ hours, daily).
Car & Motorcycle
The island’s main dual-carriage, the SS131 'Carlo Felice’, links the capital with Porto Torres via Oristano and Sassari; a branch road, the SS131dcn, runs from Oristano to Olbia via Nuoro. The SS130 leads west to Iglesias.
The coast roads approaching from the east and west get highly congested in the summer holiday season.
Train
The main train station is located on Piazza Matteotti. Direct trains serve Iglesias (€4.30, one hour, 11 daily), Carbonia (€4.90, one hour, eight daily), Sassari (€16.50, 2¾ hours, three daily), Porto Torres (€18, 3½ hours, one daily), Oristano (€6.70, 50 minutes to 1½ hours, 15 daily) and Olbia (€18, 3¼ hours, three daily).
ARST runs a light rail service from Piazza Repubblica to Monserrato, where you can connect with trains for Dolianova, Mandas and Isili. A single ticket costs €1.30.
8Getting Around
The centre of Cagliari is small enough to explore on foot. The walk up to Il Castello is tough, but there’s an elevator at the bottom of the Scalette di Santa Chiara behind Piazza Yenne.
Bus
CTM (Consorzio Trasporti e Mobilità; %800 078870; www.ctmcagliari.it; single/daily ticket €1.30/3.30) bus routes cover the city and surrounding area. You might use the buses to reach a handful of out-of-the-way sights, and they come in handy for Calamosca and Poetto beaches. Tickets are valid for 1½ hours.
The most useful lines:
ABus 7 Circular route from Piazza Yenne up to Il Castello and back.
ABus 30 or 31 Along the seafront to near the sanctuary at Bonaria.
ABus PF or PQ From Piazza Matteotti to Poetto beach.
Car & Motorcycle
Driving in the centre of Cagliari is a pain, although given the geography of the town (one big hill), you might consider renting a scooter for a day or two.
Parking in the city centre from 9am to 1pm and 4pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday means paying. On-street metered parking (within the blue lines) costs €1 per hour. Alternatively, there’s a 24-hour car park next to the train station, which costs €1 per hour or €10 for 24 hours. There’s no maximum stay.
There’s a Hertz (
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 65 10 78; www.hertz.it; Piazza Matteotti 8; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Sat, 9am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Sun) in town and several car rental agencies at the airport including Auto Europa (
GOOGLE MAP
; %800 334440; www.autoeuropa.it; Cagliari Elmas Airport; h8am-11pm).
Taxi
Many hotels and guesthouses arrange airport pick-ups. There are taxi ranks at Piazza Matteotti (
GOOGLE MAP
; Via Sassari), Piazza Repubblica (
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza Repubblica) and on Largo Carlo Felice (
GOOGLE MAP
; Piazza Yenne). Otherwise you can call the radio taxi firms Radio Taxi 4 Mori (%070 40 01 01; www.cagliaritaxi.com) and Rossoblù (%070 66 55; www.radiotaxirossoblu.com).
The Sarrabus
The Sarrabus, the triangular-shaped territory that covers Sardinia’s southeastern corner, is one of the island’s least-populated and least-developed areas. It might only be an hour or two by car from Cagliari but it feels like another world with its remote, thickly wooded mountains and snaking, silent roads. Its high point, Monte dei Sette Fratelli, is a miraculously unspoilt wilderness, home to some of the island’s last remaining deer. The coastal scenery is every bit as impressive, featuring high cliff-bound coves and endless swathes of sand fronted by transparent azure waters.
Most people visit in summer, sticking to the well-known beach destinations of Villasimius and the Costa Rei, but venture inland and you’ll discover there’s some great hiking to be had in its mountainous hinterland.
Villasimius & Capo Carbonara
Once a quiet fishing village surrounded by pines and macchia (Mediterranean shrubland), Villasimius has grown into one of Sardinia’s most popular southern resorts. The town itself is about 1.5km inland but it makes a handy base for exploring the fabulous beaches and transparent waters that sparkle on the nearby coast. In summer it’s a lively, cheerful place, but activity all but dies out in winter.
1Sights
oCapo CarbonaraNATURE RESERVE
( GOOGLE MAP ; www.ampcapocarbonara.it)
If you embark on just one excursion from Villasimius, make it the 15-minute drive south to Capo Carbonara, a protected marine park. The promontory dips spectacularly into the crystal-clear waters of the Med. Besides perfect conditions for divers, the area has some gorgeously secluded bays with white quartz sand, backed by cliffs cloaked in macchia and wildflowers. Walking trails teeter off in all directions.
Note that parts of the promontory are off-limits to the public due to the presence of a military weather station.
DON'T MISS
DIVING OFF CAPO CARBONARA
Although parts of the cape are a military zone off-limits to visitors, the azure waters around Capo Carbonara are a marine reserve. This protected area, which includes the Isola dei Cavoli, Secca dei Berni and Isola di Serpentara, is accessible with an authorised diving company. Both Morgan Diving (
GOOGLE MAP
; %337 564354; www.morgandiving.com; Marina di Capitana; dives €40-110) and Air Sub (
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 79 20 33; www.airsubdiving.com; Via Roma 121; single dive from €40, full kit hire €20) in Villasimius lead dives to a number of sites, including an underwater mountain known as the Secca di Santa Caterina. Reckon on €40 to €110 for a dive, depending on location and level of difficulty.
oCala GiuncoBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
The pick of Villasimius' spiagge (beaches), Cala Giunco is a vision of beach perfection: a long strip of silky white sand sandwiched between tropical azure waters and a silvery lagoon, the Stagno Notteri, where pink flamingos congregate in winter. To the north, macchia-clad hills rise on the blue horizon.
Museo ArcheologicoMUSEUM
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 793 02 90; Via Frau 5; adult/reduced €3/1.50; h10am-1pm & 6-9pm Tue-Sun summer, 9am-1pm & 4-6pm Tue-Sun winter)
Villasimius’ archaeology museum harbours a small but interesting collection of Roman and Phoenician artefacts, as well as various odds and ends recovered from a 15th-century Spanish shipwreck.
Fortezza VecchiaHISTORIC SITE
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 793 02 71; adult/reduced €3/1.50; h5-8pm)
Perched on cliffs close to Capo Carbonara, this ruined 14th-century fortress dates back to the time the Aragonese controlled the island. The views over the bay to the green, macchia-tufted mountains are more striking than the stronghold itself.
2Activities
In town the main activity is browsing shops and enjoying the holiday atmosphere. Boat tours are a popular summer activity, with operators running cruises along the coast between May and September.
Fiore di MaggioBOATING
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %345 6032042; www.fioredimaggio.eu; per adult/child incl lunch €45/35)
These daily boat tours are a superb way to see the hidden bays and islands of the Capo Carbonara marine reserve. Take your bathers if you fancy a dip.
zFestivals & Events
Festa della Madonna del NaufragoRELIGIOUS
(h3rd weekend Jul)
The Festa della Madonna del Naufrago, Villasimius' big annual event, is held towards the end of July. The highlight is a boat procession to a spot off the coast where a statue of the Virgin Mary lies on the seabed. Wreaths of flowers are left in honour of shipwrecked sailors.
5Eating
In Villasimius, you’ll find several pizzerias, bars and restaurants, many serving local seafood. Action is concentrated on the main drag, Via del Mare, its continuation Via Umberto I, and Via Roma. With your own transport, there are also various summer-only restaurants dotted around the coastal areas south of town. Many resort hotels also have restaurants open to nonguests.
Ristorante Le AnforeMEDITERRANEAN€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 79 20 32; www.hotelleanfore.com; Via Pallaresus 16; meals €30-40; hnoon-2.30pm Tue-Sun & 7.30-10.30pm daily)
The chef’s love of fresh local produce shines through in Sardinian dishes such as bottarga di muggine (mullet roe) and fregola con le vongole (couscous-like pasta with clams) at this highly regarded hotel-restaurant. Adding to the experience is the alfresco verandah overlooking the hotel gardens.
Ristorante La LanternaRISTORANTE, PIZZERIA€€
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 79 00 13; Via Roma 64; meals €35; h12.30-2.30pm & 6.50-10.30pm daily summer, Thu-Tue winter)
A warm and welcoming restaurant-cum-pizzeria with a sunny outdoor terrace and genuine island food, this is one of the best places in the town centre. The menu covers all bases with a range of classic seafood dishes alongside traditional Sardinian pastas, steaks and pizzas.
8Information
Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION
(
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 793 02 71; Piazza Giovanni XXIII; h10am-11.30pm summer, shorter hours winter)
In the town centre just off the central Via Umberto I.
8Getting There & Around
ARST buses run to and from Cagliari (€4.30, 1½ hours, at least six daily) throughout the year.
If you want to rent your own wheels (a good idea, as most of the beaches are a few kilometres out of town), Rent A Car Simius (
GOOGLE MAP
; %070 792 80 37; www.rentacarsimius.com; Via Roma 77) hires out bikes, scooters and cars.
Costa Rei
Stretching along Sardinia’s southeastern seafront, the Costa Rei extends from Cala Sinzias, about 25km north of Villasimius, to a rocky headland known as Capo Ferrat. Its lengthy beaches are stunning with soft, pearly-white sands and glorious azure waters.
Approaching from Villasimius, the first beach you hit is Cala Sinzias, a pretty sandy strip some 6km south of the main Costa Rei resort. The resort is typical of many in Sardinia, a functional holiday village of villas, shops, bars and eateries that’s dead in winter but packed in the summer holiday months.
North of the resort, the beaches continue up to the road’s end at Capo Ferrato, beyond which drivable dirt trails lead north.
1Sights
Spiaggia Costa ReiBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
In front of the eponymous resort, the Spiaggia Costa Rei is a lengthy strip of dazzling white sand lapped by astonishingly clear blue-green waters.
Spiaggia Piscina ReiBEACH
( GOOGLE MAP )
To the north of Costa Rei, this fabulous beach impresses with its blinding-white sand and turquoise water. A couple more beaches fill the remaining length of coast up to Capo Ferrato.
8Getting There & Away
Throughout the year, three weekday ARST buses connect the Costa Rei with Villasimius (€1.90, 45 minutes). In summer, there are at least a couple more services.