Oristano & the West

Why Go?

This part of central Sardinia boasts much of what makes the island such a beautiful and intriguing place: sublime beaches, verdant hills, ancient ruins and mysterious nuraghic temples.

In the heart of it all is Oristano, one of Sardinia's great medieval cities. It's a lively place with a gracious historic centre and laid-back atmosphere. A short hop away, the Sinis Peninsula harbours gorgeous beaches and ancient Roman ruins, while, to the north, Bosa charms with its riverside centro storico (historic centre).

For an altogether different experience, venture inland for a taste of rural Sardinia. The villages and soaring slopes of Monti Ferru are ripe for foodie touring with their prized local specialities, most notably bue rosso beef and extra-virgin olive oil.

Festival-goers will also enjoy the area. Oristano hosts colourful carnival celebrations, and the village of Sedilo stages one of Sardinia's most exhilarating events, the extraordinary S'Ardia horse race.

When to Go

AJanuary is prime time for spotting pink flamingos on the Sinis Peninsula.

AIn February, you can thrill to the acrobatic horsemanship of Oristano’s Sa Sartiglia, the most colourful carnival on the island.

AHead to western Sardinia's beaches in June, to bask in the warm sun without the peak summer crowds.

Best Places to Eat

A Essenza del Gusto

A Desogos

A Agriturismo Montiferru

A Locanda di Corte

A Agriturismo Sinis

Best Places to Sleep

A Antica Dimora Del Gruccione

A Hotel Lucrezia

A Eremo del Cavaliere

A La Torre di Alice

A Hotel Regina d'Arborea

Oristano & the West Highlights

1 Is Aruttas Topping up your tan on the prized quartz sand of this blinding white beach.

2 Tharros Giving your imagination a workout at the Sinis Peninsula's windswept ancient ruins.

3 Sa Sartiglia Throwing yourself into Oristano’s carnival madness.

4 Castello Malaspina Surveying Bosa's colourful houses from its brooding hilltop castle.

5 Museo Civico Facing up to the Giants of Monte Prama at Cabras' fine archaeological museum.

6 Montiferru Revelling in soaring views and culinary treasures in Oristano's mountainous interior.

7 Nuraghe di Santa Cristina Brushing up on your Bronze Age history at western Sardinia's most impressive nuraghic site.

8 S’Ardia Marvelling at daredevil horse-riding skills during Sedilo’s famous summer festival.

9 San Salvatore Perfecting your spaghetti-western swagger in this former film set of a village.

Oristano

%0783 / Pop 31,600

With its elegant shopping streets, ornate piazzas, popular cafes and some good restaurants, Oristano’s refined and animated centre is a lovely place to hang out. Though there’s not a huge amount to see beyond some churches and an interesting archaeological museum, the city makes a good base for the surrounding area.

History

The flat, fertile countryside around Oristano was an important nuraghic centre, but it was the Phoenicians who first put the area on the map. Arriving in the latter half of the 8th century BC, they established the city of Tharros, which later thrived under the Romans and became the de facto capital of western Sardinia.

The city was eventually abandoned in 1070 when its citizens, fed up with continuous Saracen raids, decamped to a more easily defensible inland site, Aristianis (present-day Oristano). This new city became capital of the Giudicato d’Arborea, one of Sardinia’s four independent provinces, and the base of operations for Eleonora of Arborea (c 1340–1404). A heroine in the Joan of Arc mould, Eleonora organised the 14th-century war against the Spanish and wrote the Carta de Logu (Code of Laws) before succumbing to the plague. With her death, anti-Spanish opposition crumbled and Oristano was incorporated into the rest of Aragonese-controlled Sardinia. It wasn’t a good time for the city. Trade collapsed and the city suffered from plague and famine.

The construction of the Cagliari–Porto Torres highway in the 1820s, and Mussolini’s land-reclamation programs, gave Oristano a much-needed boost.

1Sights

Oristano’s main sights are in the centro storico (historic centre), a pretty area of stone houses, sunny piazzas and baroque streets.

Oristano

1Top Sights

1Piazza Eleonora d'ArboreaB3

1Sights

2Cattedrale di Santa Maria AssuntaA4

3Centro di Documentazione sulla SartigliaA3

4Chiesa di San FrancescoA3

5Municipio (Town Hall)B3

6Museo Antiquarium ArborenseB2

Pinacoteca Carlo ContiniA3

Statue of EleonoraB3

7Torre di Mariano IIB2

8Torre di PortixeddaD2

4Sleeping

9Duomo AlbergoB4

10Eleonora B&BB3

11Hotel Regina d'ArboreaB3

5Eating

12La BraceC1

13La TorreB1

14Trattoria GinoB1

6Drinking & Nightlife

15LibridB3

16Lola MundoB3

oPiazza Eleonora d’ArboreaPIAZZA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Oristano’s elegant outdoor salon sits at the southern end of pedestrianised Corso Umberto I. An impressive, rectangular space, it comes to life on summer evenings when townsfolk congregate and children blast footballs against the glowing palazzi. The city’s central square since the 1800s, it’s flanked by grand buildings, including the neoclassical Municipio ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ). In the centre stands an ornate 19th-century statue of Eleonora ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Eleonora d'Arborea), raising a finger as if about to launch into a political speech.

Bargain hunters should drop by on the first Saturday of the month when the piazza hosts an antique market.

Cattedrale di Santa Maria AssuntaCATHEDRAL

(Duomo; MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza del Duomo; h9am-7pm summer, to 6pm winter)

Lording it over Oristano’s skyline, the Duomo's onion-domed bell tower is one of the few remaining elements of the original 14th-century cathedral, itself a reworking of an earlier church damaged by fire in the late 12th century. The free-standing campanile (bell tower), topped by its conspicuous majolica-tiled dome, adds an exotic Byzantine feel to what is otherwise a typical 18th-century baroque complex.

Centro di Documentazione sulla SartigliaMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.biblioteca.oristano.it; Via Sant'Antonio 9; h9am-2pm & 3.30-7pm Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)F

For a visceral taste of Oristano's headline festival, Sa Sartiglia (hFeb), pop into this free museum adjacent to the city's Pinacoteca. Look out for various depictions of the Mamuthones, the sinister costumed characters that feature in many Sardinian carnival festivities, and peruse the collection of festival memorabilia, which includes masks, costumes and an interesting selection of historic photos dating as far back as 1864.

Pinacoteca Carlo ContiniGALLERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sant'Antonio 9; adult/reduced €4/2; h10am-1pm & 4.30-7.30pm)

Oristano's municipal art gallery has a small but interesting permanent collection of Sardinian paintings, together with rotating exhibits by local artists.

Museo Antiquarium ArborenseMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 79 12 62; www.antiquariumarborense.it; Piazza Corrias; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h9am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm & 3-8pm Sat & Sun)

Oristano’s principal museum boasts one of the island’s major archaeological collections, with prehistoric artefacts from the Sinis Peninsula and finds from Carthaginian and Roman Tharros. There's also a small collection of retabli (painted altarpieces), including the 16th-century Retablo del Santo Cristo, by the workshop of Pietro Cavaro, which depicts a group of apparently beatific saints. But look closer and you’ll see they all sport the instruments of their torture slicing through their heads, necks and hearts.

Chiesa di San FrancescoCHURCH

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Sant'Antonio; hMass only)

The 14th-century Crocifisso di Nicodemo, considered one of Sardinia’s most precious carvings, is the highlight of this 19th-century neoclassical church designed by Cagliari architect Gaetano Cima. Also take a look at the sacristy’s 16th-century altarpiece by Pietro Cavaro.

Torre di Mariano IITOWER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Roma)

Little survives of the medieval walled town except for a pair of towers. This 13th-century beauty, known also as the Torre di Cristoforo, was the town’s northern gate and an important part of the city’s defences. The bell was added in the 15th century.

Torre di PortixeddaTOWER

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hvariable)

This tower, just off Via Giuseppe Mazzini, was part of the city's medieval walls, most of which were pulled down in the 19th century. It's now used to stage temporary exhibitions.

SA SARTIGLIA: ORISTANO'S MARDI GRAS

Sa Sartiglia is Sardinia’s most colourful and carefully choreographed festival. Its origins are unknown, but its godlike central figure, the Su Cumpoidori, hints at pagan ritual. The jousts and costumes are undoubtedly Spanish, probably introduced by the giudici (provincial governors), who were trained at the Court of Aragon. The word Sartiglia comes from the Castilian sortija, meaning ‘ring’, and the central event is a medieval joust in which the Su Cumpoidori, the King of the Sartiglia, must pierce a star (ring) suspended overhead. The virgin brides who dress the Su Cumpoidori, along with his effeminate, godlike status and the throwing of grain, all suggest older fertility rites heralding spring.

The event is held over two days, Sunday and martedi grasso (Shrove Tuesday or Mardi Gras). At noon the Su Cumpoidori is ‘born’. He sits on a table (the altar) and is reverently clothed and masked by the sas massaieddas (young virgins). From this point on he cannot touch the ground and is carried to his horse, which is almost as elaborately dressed as he is. The Su Cumpoidori’s white mask is framed by a stiff mantilla, on top of which he wears a black top hat. In his hand he carries a sceptre decorated with violets and periwinkles with which he blesses the crowd. It is his task to start the Sartiglia, the race to the star, which he does with two other knights, his segundu (second) and terzu (third), who all try to pierce the star. The more times they strike it, the more luck they bring to the coming year. The last ritual the Su Cumpoidori performs is the Sa Remada, where he gallops along the course lying on his back. Then the games are open to acrobatic riders who perform feats that draw gasps from the crowd.

5Eating

Eating in Oristano is a pleasure. There’s a good range of reasonably priced restaurants, and the nearby Stagno di Cabras and Golfo di Oristano provide plentiful fresh seafood. Local staples include muggine (mullet), which often appears on menus as mrecca (boiled, wrapped in pond grass and then dried and salted). Grilled eel is popular, as are patelle (limpet-like dark clams).

oDriMcafèCAFE€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %078 330 37 50; Via Cagliari 316; light snacks & meals €4-9; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; Wv)

This delightful, laid-back hang-out brings a slice of boho warmth to Oristano, with its rust-red walls, mishmash of vintage furnishings, book shelves and chipper service. Besides speciality teas (including Moroccan mint) and homemade cakes, it rustles up day specials – from vegetarian and vegan offerings to rosemary-rubbed lamb with seasonal vegetables.

La TorrePIZZA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 30 14 94; Piazza Roma 52; pizzas €4.50-10, meals €20-25; hnoon-3pm & 6.30-11pm Tue-Sun)

This place doesn’t look like much from the outside; in fact, it's not so amazing inside either. No matter, it serves the best pizza in town. If you're off pizza but just want to enjoy the hectic atmosphere, there's a full menu of pastas and grilled main courses.

oTrattoria GinoTRATTORIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 7 14 28; Via Tirso 13; meals €25-33; h12.30-3pm & 8-11pm Mon-Sat)

For excellent food and a bustling, authentic vibe, head to this old-school trattoria. Since the 1930s, locals and visitors alike have been squeezing into Gino's simple dining room to feast on tasty seafood and classic pastas. Don't miss the seafood antipasto, the butter-soft roast seppie (cuttlefish) and the scrumptious seadas (fried dough pockets with fresh pecorino, lemon and honey) for dessert.

La BraceSARDINIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 7 33 28; Via Figoli 41; lunch specials €15-20, meals €25-35; h1-3pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sun)

This restaurant's name refers to the glowing embers of a wood fire, and grilled meats and fish are indeed its speciality – but you'll also find a full range of Sardinian appetisers, homemade pastas and desserts. The weekday lunch special is a big draw at €15 for two courses, or €20 for three.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Oristano's liveliest and most atmospheric drinking spots are concentrated in the historic centre near Piazza Eleonora d'Arborea and Piazza Roma.

LibridBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/libridoristano; Piazza Eleonora d'Arborea; h10am-midnight Wed-Mon)

This appealing new cafe, bar and arts space fills the interior courtyard and stone-and-brick-vaulted former stables of a palazzo on Oristano's main square. It's a great spot for everything from aperitivi to Sardinian craft beers to morning coffee and freshly squeezed juices. Ongoing cultural offerings include an evening film series and an attached bookstore.

Lola MundoCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Corrias 14; h7am-midnight Mon-Sat)

With its piazza seating, bright modern interior and perfect centro storico location, this popular cafe is a great spot to hang out over a coffee or aperitif.

116 CaffèCAFE

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Tirso 116; h6.30am-1am Mon-Sat)

This modern cafe – think bare wooden floorboards and black and grey tones – is the place for an early evening aperitivo accompanied by a predinner snack from the ample buffet spread.

7Shopping

Cantina Sociale della VernacciaWINE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 3 33 83; www.vinovernaccia.com; Via Oristano 6/A, Rimedio; h8am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat)

Oristano is famous for its fortified Vernaccia wine, and this cantina about 3km north of the city centre is the place to buy it. Most of Oristano’s local producers bring their grapes here to be crushed, so you can be assured of the quality.

8Information

Ospedale San MartinoHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 31 71; Via Rockefeller)

Hospital south of the centre.

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 36 80 28; Via Mariano IV d’Arborea; h8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, to 12.35pm Sat)

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 368 32 10; www.gooristano.com; Piazza Eleonora d'Arborea 18; h9am-1pm Mon-Fri, plus 3-6pm Mon & Wed)

Oristano's tourist office is helpful and centrally located on the main square.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

From the main bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Cagliari), direct buses run to/from Santa Giusta (€1.30, 15 minutes, half-hourly), Cagliari (€6.70, two hours, two daily), Bosa (€4.90, two hours, five daily) and Sassari (€8.10, two hours, three daily).

Car & Motorcycle

Oristano is just off the SS131, which connects Cagliari with Sassari and Porto Torres. Branch highways head off to the northeast for Nuoro and Olbia.

Train

The main train station is in Piazza Ungheria, east of the town centre. Up to 15 daily trains, some of which involve a change, run between Oristano and Cagliari (€6.70, 50 to 80 minutes). Direct trains serve Sassari (€11, two to 2¼ hours, two to three daily) and Olbia (€12.50, 2½ hours, two to three daily); there are additional services but they require a change at Ozieri-Chilivani.

8Getting Around

Bus

The town centre is easily covered on foot, although you'll probably want to use buses to get in from the train station. Take a line 3 bus to Piazza Roma in the historic centre.

Various buses run from Via Cagliari to Marina di Torregrande (€1.30, 15 minutes).

Car & Motorcycle

Parking is not too difficult if you leave your car a little out of the centre. Blue lines denote pay-and-display parking. Near the centre it costs €0.80 per hour between 9am and 1pm and then from 4pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday. Outside these hours it's free.

Taxi

There are taxi stands at the train station and on Piazza Roma. Alternatively call 0783 7 02 80 or 0783 7 43 28.

South of Oristano

South of Oristano, flat plains extend in a patchwork of wide, open fields interspersed with canals, lagoons and the odd pocket of pine forest. Until Mussolini launched an ambitious drainage and reclamation program in 1919, the area was largely covered with malarial swampland and thick cork forests. Nowadays it’s a featureless, and sometimes strange, landscape dotted with sleepy villages and agricultural towns.

Santa Giusta

%0783 / Pop 4810

A bustling agricultural town, Santa Giusta lies on the shores of the Stagno di Santa Giusta, Sardinia’s third-largest lagoon. Once the Punic town of Othoca, it is best known for its extraordinary basilica, one of the first, and finest, examples of Romanesque architecture in Sardinia.

1Sights

oBasilica di Santa GiustaCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; h7.30am-6.30pm)

This landmark Romanesque church is one of Sardinia's architectural jewels. Dating to the early 12th century, it sports a severe sandstone exterior punctuated by blind arcades and a typically Tuscan portal. Inside, three naves are divided by rows of marble and granite columns, several of which probably came from ancient Tharros. Beneath the presbytery, a vaulted crypt houses the relics of St Justa, a 2nd-century martyr who is said to have been executed here during the reign of Diocletian.

For four days around 14 May, the basilica takes centre stage during celebrations of the town’s annual Festa di Santa Giusta.

Stagno S’Ena ArrubiaLAGOON

( GOOGLE MAP )

Six kilometres to the south of Santa Giusta, the Stagno S’Ena Arrubia is a paradise for birdwatchers – flamingos, herons, coots and ospreys are regularly sighted.

8Getting There & Away

Santa Giusta is a 10-minute drive down the SP56 from Oristano. Half-hourly buses make the run to/from Oristano’s bus station (€1.30).

Arborea

%0783 / Pop 3960

Founded by Mussolini in 1928, the quiet town of Arborea bears all the hallmarks of its Fascist inception – severe grid-patterned streets, an immaculate central piazza and an array of fantastical architectural styles. Just a few kilometres northwest, the coastal hamlet of Marina di Arborea is home to a notable equestrian centre.

1Sights & Activities

Piazza Maria AusiliatricePIAZZA

( GOOGLE MAP )

Arborea's showcase square, Piazza Maria Ausiliatrice is a beautifully tended space that wouldn’t look out of place in a Swiss alpine village. Overlooking it is the clocked facade of the Tyrolean-style Chiesa del Cristo Redentore and, over the road, the art-nouveau Municipio (Town Hall).

MUB Museo della BonificaMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 80 20 05; Corso Italia 24; adult/reduced €2/1; h10.30am-1pm Mon-Wed, 10.30am-1pm & 4.30-7pm Thu-Sat)S

Housed in a renovated mill, this civic museum charts Arborea's Mussolini-era origins, including its architectural planning, the influx of new residents from northeastern Italy and the reclaiming (bonifica) of land from the surrounding malarial wetlands. There's also a small archaeological section displaying nuraghic and ancient artefacts unearthed at the Necropoli di S'Ungroni and other sites in the vicinity.

Spiaggia di Marina di ArboreaBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

The tiny settlement of Marina di Arborea gives onto this long and rarely busy beach. Backed by dense pine woods, the sandy strip extends northwards for several kilometres to the Stagno S'Ena Arrubia lagoon.

Horse Country ResortHORSE RIDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 8 05 00; www.horsecountry.it; Strada a Mare 24; riding lessons per person from €20)

Hidden behind a thick pine wood at Marina di Arborea, 2km northwest of Arborea, this is Sardinia's largest equestrian centre and one of the most important in Italy, with a stable of Arabian, Andalucian and Sardinian horses. You can choose from a number of riding packages, with lessons starting at €20 per person. Accommodation at the resort is also available.

8Getting There & Away

It's a 20-minute drive from Oristano to Arborea via the SP49. ARST operates hourly buses along this route (€1.90, 25 minutes).

Marceddi

This tiny fishing village overlooks the mouth of the Stagno di Marceddi, a wildlife-rich lagoon that separates the Arborea plains from the Costa Verde, providing important habitat for flamingos, cormorants and herons. For much of the year Marceddi is a sleepy place, where the only signs of modern life are a few battered cars and ragged electricity lines flapping over dirt roads. Visitors who make the detour will be rewarded with fresh seafood, wide-open vistas and an authentic slice of local life.

5Eating

Da LucioSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 86 71 30; www.ristorantedalucio.it; Via Lungomare 40; meals around €35; h12.30-2.45pm & 8.30-10.45pm Fri-Wed)

The pick of Marceddi's waterfront restaurants, this is a relaxed spot for a seafood feast. Try the octopus salad, or, if they're available, fleshy little sea urchins, followed by fregola con arselle nera (small semolina pasta with black clams). For a main course, you can't go wrong with grilled fish.

8Getting There & Away

You'll need your own wheels to get to Marceddi. The drive from Oristano, via the SP49 and SP69, takes about 35 minutes.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

OASI DI SEU

Oasi di SeuNATURE RESERVE

( GOOGLE MAP )F

A few kilometres out of Tharros, and signposted off the main road, the Oasi di Seu is a veritable Eden of Mediterranean flora. Once you’ve navigated the 3km dirt track to the entrance, you enter a silent world of sandy paths and undisturbed nature. Herby smells fill the air, rising off fragrant masses of macchia (scrub), rosemary, dwarf palms and pine trees.

Sinis Peninsula

Spearing into the Golfo di Oristano, the Sinis Peninsula feels like a world apart. Its limpid lagoons – the Stagno di Cabras, Stagno Sale Porcus and Stagno Is Benas – and snow-white beaches lend it an almost tropical air, while the low-lying green countryside appears uncontaminated by human activity. In fact, the area has been inhabited since the 5th century BC. Nuraghi litter the landscape and the compelling Punic-Roman site of Tharros stands testament to the area’s former importance. Sports fans will enjoy great surfing, windsurfing and some fine diving.

Although summer is the obvious time to visit, early spring is also wonderful as wildflowers brighten the verdant landscape and flocks of migrating birds swarm to the lagoons. The queen of the show is the gorgeous pink flamingo.

SINIS PENINSULA BEACHES

Within easy striking distance of Oristano, the beaches on the Sinis Peninsula are among the best on the island. Ideally you'll need your own car to get to them, but limited bus service is available in July and August.

oIs AruttasBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

One of the peninsula's most famous beaches, Is Aruttas is a pristine arc of white sand fronted by translucent aquamarine waters. For years its quartz sand was carted off to be used in aquariums and on beaches on the Costa Smeralda, but it's now illegal to take any. From San Salvatore on the main Oristano–Tharros road, follow signs 2km north along the SP7 then continue 5km west on the SP59 to reach the beach.

Putzu IduBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Backed by a motley set of holiday homes and beach bars, Putzu Idu's beach sits near the north of the peninsula. It's a picturesque strip of sand that's something of a water-sports hot spot with excellent surfing, windsurfing and kitesurfing. To the north, the Capo Mannu promontory is scalloped with a tantalising array of more secluded beaches – and battered by some of the Mediterranean's biggest waves.

Isola di Mal di VentreISLAND

( GOOGLE MAP )

This bare, rocky island 10km off the coast owes its strange name (Stomach-ache Island) to the seasickness that sailors often suffered while navigating its windy waters. Now uninhabited, it was home to a primitive nuraghic settlement and later used by Saracen pirates. The only people who now visit are holidaymakers keen to search out the beaches on its eastern shores. Maremania ( GOOGLE MAP ; %348 0084161; www.maluentu.it; tours adult/reduced €25/15; h9am-1pm & 3-7pm Jun-Sep) is one of several operators running boat tours from Putzu Idu between June and September.

Is Benas Surf ClubWATER SPORTS

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 192 53 63; www.isbenas.com; Lungomare S'Arena Scoada, Putzu Idu)

In business for more than 20 years, the Sinis Peninsula's top surf school has it all – from lessons to equipment to accommodation to professional advice – for surfers, kitesurfers and stand-up paddleboarders. The main branch is just south of Putzu Idu at Arena Scoada beach, while the affiliated Capo Mannu Kite School is a few kilometres northwest at Sa Rocca Tunda.

Cabras

%0783 / Pop 9210

Sprawled on the southern shore of the Stagno di Cabras, Cabras is best known for its archaeology museum and its fine seafood. Beyond these attractions, there's little reason to linger.

1Sights

oMuseo CivicoMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 29 06 36; www.museocabras.it; Via Tharros 121; adult/reduced €5/4, incl Tharros €8/5; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm daily Apr-Oct, 9am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun Nov-Mar)

Cabras' cultural highlight is the Museo Civico, and the real superstars here are the so-called Giants of Monte Prama, a series of towering nuraghic figures depicting archers, wrestlers and boxers. Also of interest are finds from Tharros and the prehistoric site of Cuccuru Is Arrius, along with obsidian and flint tools said to date back to the Neolithic cultures of Bonu Ighinu and Ozieri. As of 2017, the museum was expanding to accommodate additional finds from the Monte Prama excavations.

zFestivals & Events

Festa di San SalvatoreRELIGIOUS

(hSep)

To mark the Festa di San Salvatore on the first weekend in September, hundreds of young men participate in the Corsa degli Scalzi, a traditional barefoot dash between Cabras and San Salvatore. The run, which is spread over two days, commemorates an episode in 1506, when townspeople rushed to San Salvatore to save a statue of the Holy Saviour from Moorish sea raiders.

Events kick off on the Saturday when the runners, all barefoot and clad in white, accompany the statue along 8km of dusty paths to San Salvatore. But this is only the halfway point, and the next day they retrace their steps and haul the statue back to Cabras for safekeeping at the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta.

5Eating

Expect to eat well in Cabras, an important fishing town that is known throughout Sardinia for its mullet fisheries.The local bottarga (mullet roe) is much sought after and well worth trying.

Il CaminettoSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 39 11 39; www.ristorante-ilcaminetto.com; Via Cesare Battisti 8; meals €25-35; h12.45-2.45pm & 8-10.30pm Tue-Sun)

Hidden away in the historic centre, this is one of the best-known seafood restaurants in the area. Sit down to island classics such as muggine affumicato (smoked mullet) followed by spaghetti alle arselle or alla bottarga (spaghetti with clams or mullet roe) and a grigliata mista (mixed grill of today's fresh fish).

Sa Pischera 'e Mar 'e PontisSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 39 17 74; www.consorziopontis.it; Strada Provinciale 6; menus €27-32; h1-2.30pm & 8-9.30pm)

Fronting the Pontis fishing cooperative on the waterfront between Cabras and Tharros, this is an atmospheric spot to sample fresh seafood. The menu changes according to the daily catch, but pride of place goes to the local muggine (mullet) and prized bottarga (mullet roe). Booking recommended.

8Getting There & Away

Buses run every hour to/from Oristano (€1.30, 15 minutes). By car or motorcycle, Cabras is a 10-minute drive from Oristano via the SP56, SP1 and SP3.

THE GIANTS OF MONTE PRAMA

A group of vast nuraghic figures, the Giants of Monte Prama saw the light of day for the first time in almost 3000 years when they went on display in March 2014 at the archaeological museums in Cabras and Cagliari.

The sandstone statues, which stand up to 2.5m high, are among the oldest of their type ever discovered in the Mediterranean, dating to the 8th or 9th century BC. They depict archers, boxers and warriors, and have strange, haunting faces with pronounced eyebrows and well-defined noses. Their most distinguishing feature, however, are their hypnotic eyes, which are represented by two concentric circles, thought to symbolise power and magic.

As they stand today, the statues are the result of a painstaking four-year project to piece them together from fragments found at Monte Prama, a low-rising hill between San Salvatore and Riola Sardo. The first fragments were accidentally discovered by a local farmer in 1974, but over the next five years more than 5000 pieces were unearthed, including 15 heads and 22 torsos. So far archaeologists have assembled 25 statues and 13 models of nuraghi, and identified pieces for three more figures.

Excavation of the site is ongoing, and new discoveries are constantly being made. As of 2017, the archaeological museum in Cabras was expanding to accommodate some of the new finds.

Marina di Torregrande

%0783 / Pop 780

About 4.5km south of Cabras, the small summer resort of Marina di Torregrande is a favourite hang-out for Oristano's beach-goers. Behind the long, sandy beach, the village presents a familiar seaside scene, with suntanned locals parading down a palm-flanked lungomare (promenade) and music emanating from bars. Out of season it’s a different story and you’ll find the holiday homes shuttered and most of the restaurants closed.

The village’s one and only building of any historical note is the stout 16th-century Aragonese watchtower, after which the resort is named. Once you’ve seen that, there’s not much to do except don your swimmers and head to the beach. You can hire sunloungers and umbrellas there – expect to pay from about €11 per day.

2Activities

EoloWINDSURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %327 5609844; www.eolowindsurf.com; Lungomare Eleonora d’Arborea; h9am-6pm Jun-Sep, 10am-6pm May & Oct, noon-4pm Nov-Apr)

Eolo organises sailing and windsurfing courses, along with beach tennis and equipment rental (windsurf packages start at €18 per hour).

5Eating

Ittiturismo Sapori di MareSEAFOOD€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 2 20 34; Via Colombo 8; meals €25-35; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun)

Its tables draped in multiple shades of sea blue, this restaurant a couple of blocks in from the waterfront serves an unabashedly fish-focused menu. Expect daily specials such as seafood lasagne with artichokes, followed by prawns sautéed in Vernaccia wine, swordfish or tuna steak, or perfectly grilled catch of the day.

8Getting There & Away

From Oristano buses run from various stops along Via Cagliari (including the main terminal) to Marina di Torregrande (€1.30, 15 minutes). By car it's an easy 10km drive via the SP1.

San Salvatore

%0783 / Pop 10

A spaghetti-western film set during the 1960s, the tiny hamlet of San Salvatore is centred on a dusty square and surrounded by rows of minuscule terraced houses, known as cumbessias. For much of the year these simple abodes are deserted, as is the rest of the village, but in early September they're opened to house pilgrims for the Festa di San Salvatore, a nine-day celebration focused on the village's pint-sized church.

1Sights

Chiesa di San SalvatoreCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9.30am-1pm year-round, plus 3.30-6pm Mon-Sat summer)

In the centre of the village, the 17th-century Chiesa di San Salvatore stands over a stone ipogeo (underground vault) dating to the nuraghic period. This originally housed a pagan sanctuary linked to the cult of water, and you can still see a well in the main chamber. It was later converted into a Roman-era church, and the dark stone walls still bear traces of 4th-century graffiti and faded frescoes.

5Eating

oAgriturismo SinisSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 39 26 53, 328 9312508; www.agriturismoilsinis.it; Località San Salvatore; meals €20-32; hbooking required)

Just north of San Salvatore, this working farm has a superb restaurant. The menu varies daily, but the vegetables and fruit are always home-grown and the meat is cooked to perfection on a big outdoor grill. When there's a big enough crowd, you may be lucky enough to sample its delectable home-bred porcetto (suckling pig). Bookings required.

8Getting There & Away

San Salvatore is an easy 20-minute drive west of Oristano via the SP6. The town is not served by public transport.

Tharros & San Giovanni di Sinis

Straddling a dramatic headland framed by blue-green Mediterranean waters, the Area Archeologica di Tharros is one of Sardinia’s most thrilling archaeological sites. Tharros was a major city in ancient times and its ruins today make for a haunting sight as they tumble down the promontory to Capo San Marco, the southernmost point of the Sinis Peninsula. Try to visit early in the morning or just before sunset when the site is at its quietest and most atmospheric.

Access to Tharros is via the small town of San Giovanni di Sinis, 1km to the north, which is home to one of Sardinia's oldest churches.

1Sights

oArea Archeologica di TharrosARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 37 00 19; www.tharros.sardegna.it; adult/reduced €5/4, incl tower €6/5, incl Museo Civico Cabras $8/6; h9am-7pm Jun, Jul & Sep, to 8pm Aug, to 6pm Apr, May & Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar)

The choppy blue waters of the Golfo di Oristano provide a magnificent backdrop to the ruins of ancient Tharros. Founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, the city thrived as a Carthaginian naval base and was later taken over by the Romans. Much of what you see today dates to the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD, when the basalt streets were laid and the aqueduct, baths and other major monuments were built.

As you approach the site it's impossible to see the ruins until you reach the hilltop ticket office. From here follow a brief stretch of cardo (the main street in a Roman settlement) until you reach, on your left, the castellum aquae, the city’s main water reserve. Two lines of pillars can be made out within the square structure. From here the Cardo Massimo, the city’s main thoroughfare, leads to a bare rise topped by a Carthaginian acropolis and a tophet, a sacred burial ground for children. Also here are remains of the original nuraghic settlement.

From the bottom of the Cardo Massimo, the Decumano runs down to the sea passing the remains of a Punic temple and, beyond that, the Roman-era Tempio Tetrastilo, marked by its two solitary columns. These are, in fact, reconstructions, although the Corinthian capital balanced on the top of one is authentic.

Nearby is a set of thermal baths and, to the north, the remains of a palaeo-Christian baptistry. At the southernmost point of the settlement is another set of baths, dating to the 3rd century AD.

For a bird’s-eye view of the site, head up to the late-16th-century Torre di San Giovanni watchtower ( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced €3/2, incl Tharros €6/5; h9am-7pm Jun, Jul & Sep, to 8pm Aug, to 6pm Apr, May & Oct, to 5pm Nov-Mar), occasionally used for exhibitions. Here you can look down on the ruins, as well as the Spiaggia di San Giovanni di Sinis, a popular beach that extends on both sides of the tower. There is nothing to stop you wandering down the dirt tracks to Capo San Marco and the lighthouse.

Chiesa di San Giovanni di SinisCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-5pm)

Near the southern tip of the Sinis Peninsula, just beyond the car park at the foot of the Tharros access road, you’ll see the sandstone Chiesa di San Giovanni di Sinis, one of the two oldest churches in Sardinia (Cagliari’s Basilica di San Saturnino is older). It owes its current form to an 11th-century makeover, although elements of the 6th-century Byzantine original remain, including the characteristic red dome. Inside, the bare walls lend a sombre and surprisingly spiritual atmosphere.

8Getting There & Away

Tharros is a 25-minute drive from Oristano. Take the SP6 to San Giovanni di Sinis, then continue south another 1km to the parking area (€2 for two hours, €4 per day).

In July and August, there are five daily buses from Oristano to San Giovanni di Sinis (€2.50, 35 minutes), from where it's a straightforward 10-minute walk south to Tharros. In other months there are no bus services.

Montiferru

North and inland of the Sinis Peninsula, western Sardinia's landscape is dominated by the wooded slopes of Montiferru. Reaching its highest point at Monte Urtigu summit (1050m), this vast volcanic massif is a beautiful and largely uncontaminated area of ancient forests, verdant pastures, natural springs and small market towns. Lonely roads snake over rocky peaks covered in a green down of cork, chestnut, oak and yew trees, while falcons and buzzards float on warm air currents overhead. Mouflon and Sardinian deer are slowly being introduced back to their forest habitats after coming close to extinction.

Santu Lussurgiu & Around

%0783 / Pop 2380 / Elev 503m

On the eastern slopes of Montiferru, Santu Lussurgiu lies inside an ancient volcanic crater. The main point of interest is the small centro storico (historic centre), a tight-knit huddle of stone houses banked up around a natural amphitheatre.

1Sights

Museo della Tecnologia ContadinaMUSEUM

(Museum of Rural Technology; GOOGLE MAP ; %349 6868600; www.museotecnologiacontadina.it; Via Deodato Meloni 1; adult/reduced €4/3; hby appointment)

Santu Lussurgiu has long been known for its crafts and remains a production centre for ironwork, woodwork and leatherwork. Explore the town's rural culture and traditions at this 10-room museum, which has a comprehensive, locally donated collection of more than 2000 ingenious tools, utensils and machines. Guides Mauro and Maria help interpret the museum's unique gems: eel-catching shears, a bow-and-arrow mouse trap, a miniature WWI monument sculpted by a returning soldier, 19th-century cognac distillery equipment and more. Advance booking essential.

Chiesa di San Leonardo de Siete FuentesCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP )

This charming 12th-century Romanesque church, which once belonged to the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, forms the centrepiece of the tiny woodland hamlet of San Leonardo de Siete Fuentes, famous for its gurgling spring waters. The town's grandiose Spanish name refers to the seven fountains through which the water gushes. Above the church, easy trails (ideal for parents with little 'uns) continue uphill through oak and elm woods. It's 6km north of Santu Lussurgiu via the SP19 and SP20.

Santuario di Santa Maria Madonna di BonacattuCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP )

According to an edict issued by Pope Pius VII in 1821, anyone who confesses at this tiny church between 14 and 28 September will receive full plenary indulgence. The delightfully simple sanctuary is little more than a rudimentary chapel capped by a simple dome, constructed of brick and volcanic stone in the 7th century on the site of an ancient Roman bath, then modified some 800 years later. There are no official opening hours, but you’ll usually find it open.

5Eating

Many local accommodation places have their own excellent restaurants and offer mezza pensione (half-board) to guests. A local speciality well worth sampling is beef from russet-red bue rosso cows, bred only here and in Modica, Sicily. Gourmets consider the meat to be among the finest in Italy.

Sas BenasSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 55 08 70; Via Cambosu 6; meals €30-40; h1-2.30pm & 8-11.30pm Tue-Sun)

Spread across several stone-walled dining rooms in the hotel of the same name, Sas Benas mixes elegance with rusticity, serving fixed-price menus of traditional country fare. Dishes, which showcase seasonal ingredients and local meats, include much-loved classics such as pasta con funghi e salsiccia (pasta with mushrooms and sausage) and tagliata di bue rosso (steak of bue rosso beef).

8Information

Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 55 10 34; Via Santa Croce 9; hvariable)

Small tourist office in the historic centre.

8Getting There & Away

The drive from Oristano to Santu Lussurgiu takes about 40 minutes via the SS131 and SP65. ARST also runs six weekday buses between Santu Lussurgiu and Oristano (€3.10, 45 minutes to 1½ hours).

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

SUNDAY LUNCH IN THE MONTIFERRU COUNTRYSIDE

oAgriturismo MontiferruAGRITURISMO€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %333 5704060; www.facebook.com/agriturismo.montiferru; Località Monte Sant'Antonio; meals €35; h1-5pm Sun)

For an authentic taste of rural Montiferru life, head for this wonderful agriturismo way out in the hills. It opens only once a week, for lunch – but what a lunch it is! The feasting lasts for hours as you move from aperitivi through massive spreads of antipasti, two kinds of homemade pasta, grilled meats and scrumptious homemade Sardinian desserts.

Reservations are essential. The farm is 30 to 40 minutes' drive from Bosa, Cuglieri or Santu Lussurgiu.

Cuglieri

%0785 / Pop 483m

Perched high on the western face of Montiferru and surrounded by lovely mountain scenery, the farming village of Cuglieri makes an excellent lunch stop.

1Sights

Basilica di Santa Maria della NeveCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP )

A landmark for miles around, the hulking, silver-domed Basilica di Santa Maria della Neve marks the high point of the village. According to local tradition it stands on the spot where a bull-drawn cart deposited a statue of the Madonna that had mysteriously washed up on the beach at Santa Caterina di Pittinuri in the early 14th century. More than the church, though, it's the vast views down to the sea that are the real highlight here.

5Eating

oDesogosTRATTORIA€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 3 96 60; Via Cugia 6; meals €30; h12.30-2.30pm & 8-11pm daily, reservation required for dinner in winter)

Run by the Desogos family for more than 70 years, this welcoming, old-school trattoria in the historic centre is perfect for a fill-up of hearty mountain fare. Forget the menu and surrender yourself into the hands of sisters Pina and Andreina, who will ply you with an abundant array of lip-smacking cured meats, marinated vegetables, tangy cheeses, pastas and wild game.

7Shopping

Azienda Olearia PeddioFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 36 92 54; www.oliopeddio.it; Corso Umberto 87; h8.30am-1pm & 3-8pm)

On the main road through the village, this is the place to stock up on local olive oil. A litre costs between €8 and €9.

8Getting There & Away

Cuglieri is on the SS292, 41km north of Oristano and 22km south of Bosa. There are five weekday buses between Cuglieri and Oristano (€3.70, one hour) and, in July and August, two Sunday services.

Santa Caterina di Pittinuri

%0785 / Pop 380

Santa Caterina di Pittinuri is the main resort on the northern Oristano coast, and while the town itself is largely made up of summer holiday homes, the surrounding coastline is lovely, ranging from dramatic cliffs and sea arches to long sweeps of untrammeled sand.

1Sights

Spiaggia dell'ArcoBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

On the northern fringe of the beachside community of S'Archittu, the Spiaggia dell’Arco features a dramatic stone arch that rises 6m above the emerald-green waters.

Is ArenasBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

About 3km south of S'Archittu, just outside the town of Torre del Pozzo, tracks lead off the SS292 to Is Arenas beach, which at 6km is one of the longest in the area.

8Getting There & Away

From Oristano it's about a 30-minute drive up the SS292 to Santa Caterina di Pittinuri. ARST runs buses from Oristano to S’Archittu and Santa Caterina (€2.50, 40 minutes, five Monday to Saturday, plus two on Sunday in July and August).

HIKE MONTIFERRU

The best way of exploring Montiferru is to ditch the car and walk. This scenic route leads up to the summit of Monte Entu, which, at 1024m, is one of the highest peaks in western Sardinia. It’s not especially demanding, although you should allow about four hours.

You’ll need a car to get to the start, which is by the Nuraghe Ruju, outside of Seneghe. From Seneghe, head towards Bonarcado and after a few hundred metres follow the sign for S’iscala. Continue up the road for about 8km to the Nuraghe Ruju picnic area and join the path a few metres down from the car park, in the wood to the left of the stone wall. Heading upwards you’ll arrive at an opening, marked by a holm-oak tree, where you should go left. Carry on past the wooden gate until you reach a second metal gate. Go through it and continue until you reach a fork in the trail. Head left for some marvellous views of the coast, as far as Alghero on a clear day. From here you can continue onwards to the foot of the volcanic cone that marks the summit of Monte Entu.

Seneghe

%0783 / Pop 1760 / Elev 310m

Seneghe is an essential stop on any gastronomic tour of central Sardinia. A dark stone village with little obvious appeal, it is famous for its extra-virgin olive oil, a one-time winner of the prestigious Premio Nazionale Ercole Olivario award (the Oscars of the Italian olive-oil industry). The village also provides food for the soul, hosting an annual poetry festival.

zFestivals & Events

Settembre dei PoetiLITERATURE

(www.settembredeipoeti.it; hAug/Sep)

Held in late August or early September, the Settembre dei Poeti is a four-day celebration of local and international poetry with readings, Q&A sessions and a poetry slam competition – a thoroughly entertaining, dramatic performance in which adversaries improvise rhyming responses to each other, much like a freestyle rap battle.

7Shopping

Alimentari MarinaFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Umberto 126a; h9am-1pm Mon-Sat, plus 5.30-8pm Mon & Fri)

Seneghe's award-winning olive oil comes in containers of every shape and size at this market in the heart of town. Grab an ultra-portable 250mL bottle (€5), or go all out with a 5L can (€43).

8Getting There & Away

Seneghe is about half an hour north of Oristano by car or motorcycle via the SS131 and SP15. ARST also operates a few daily buses between Oristano and Seneghe (€2.50, 45 minutes).

Milis

%0783 / Pop 1590

A one-time Roman military outpost (its name is a derivation of the Latin word miles, meaning soldier), Milis is a small and prosperous farming village, surrounded by the orange orchards that have brought it wealth. Its low-key attractions include the lovely Tuscan-Romanesque Chiesa di San Paolo and the stately but decaying Palazzo Boyl.

1Sights & Activities

Chiesa di San PaoloCHURCH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Near the eastern entrance to town, the Tuscan-Romanesque Chiesa di San Paolo has a lovely stone exterior and harbours some interesting paintings by 16th-century Catalan artists inside.

Palazzo BoylHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 5 16 65; Piazza Martiri; hby appointment only 9am-1pm Mon-Sat)F

A fine example of Piedmontese neoclassicism, 18th-century Palazzo Boyl dominates Milis' manicured village centre. Originally a summer residence for the aristocratic Boyl family, it became something of a literary meeting place in the late 19th and early 20th centuries – Gabriele D’Annunzio, Grazia Deledda and Honoré de Balzac all spent time here. Nowadays it houses a small, rather neglected museum dedicated to traditional Sardinian costumes and jewellery. You'll need to call the town hall in advance to arrange a visit.

Vivaio I CampiFOOD

( GOOGLE MAP ; %393 9040081; www.vivaioicampi.it; Loc Perdiesi; hby appointment)

Where's the best spot to sample Milis's famous citrus? At this wonderful pick-your-own orchard just southwest of town. Plant-lover Italo has converted his 3-hectare yard into a wonderland of multi-hued flowers interspersed with clementine, orange and mandarin orchards. Locals flock here on Sundays from November to March when the fruit is at its peak, but you can visit anytime by arrangement.

In March, Italo also hosts one of Italy's most spectacular flower festivals, Primavera in Giardino (www.primaveraingiardino.it).

zFestivals & Events

Rassegna del Vino NovelloWINE

(Festival of Young Wine; www.vininovelli.com; hNov)

In early November, Milis holds the Festival of Young Wine, a chance for Sardinia’s wine producers to show off their best products. You can do the rounds sampling the wines and grazing the food stalls that line the streets.

8Getting There & Away

Milis is an easy 21km drive from Oristano via the SS131, SS292 and SP56. To continue north into the Montiferru region, take the SP15 to Santu Lussurgiu (14km).

Inland Oristano Province

Inland, the countryside of Oristano province is sparsely populated and rich in archaeological interest, with two of central Sardinia’s most important nuraghic sites. You'll find Lago Omodeo, Sardinia’s largest artifical lake, surrounded by the green hills of the Barigadu. Some 22km long and up to 3km wide, the lake was created between 1919 and 1924 to supply water and electricity to the agricultural lands around Oristano and Arborea.

1Sights

oNuraghe di Santa CristinaARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.archeotour.net; adult/reduced incl Museo Archeologico-Etnografico Paulilatino €5/2.50; h8.30am-sunset)

Just off the SS131 north of Oristano, the Nuraghe Santa Cristina is an important nuraghic complex. Its extraordinary Bronze Age tempio a pozzo (well temple) is one of the best preserved in Sardinia. The worship of water was a fundamental part of nuraghic religious practice, and there are reckoned to be about 40 sacred wells across the island.

On entering the site, the first area you come to is a small village centred on the Chiesa di Santa Cristina, an early Christian church dedicated to Santa Cristina. The church and the terraced muristenes (pilgrims’ huts) that surround it are opened for only 20 days a year – 10 days preceding each of the twin feast days of Santa Cristina (second Sunday in May) and San Raffaele Arcangelo (fourth Sunday in October).

From the church, a path leads about 150m to the well temple. Dating back to the late Bronze Age (11th to 9th century BC), the tempio a pozzo is accessible through a finely cut keyhole entrance and a flight of 24 superbly preserved steps. When you reach the bottom you can gaze up at the perfectly constructed tholos (conical tower), through which light enters the dark well shaft. Every 18 years, one month and two days, the full moon shines directly through the aperture into the well. Otherwise you can catch the yearly equinoxes on 21 March and 23 September, when the sun lights up the stairway down to the well.

Over on the other side of the Christian village is the Nuraghe di Santa Cristina, a single 7m-high tower set in a peaceful olive grove. This once stood at the heart of a nuraghic village, which was inhabited until the early Middle Ages and whose remains lie littered around the woody glades.

Museo Archeologico-Etnografico Palazzo AtzoriMUSEUM

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.archeotour.net; Via Nazionale 127, Paulilatino; adult/reduced incl Nuraghe Santa Cristina €5/2.50; h9.30am-1pm & 4.30-7pm Tue-Sun Jul-Sep, 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-6pm Tue-Sun Oct-Jun)

Spread over three floors, this museum in Paulilatino focuses on traditional rural life, with exhibits dedicated to baking, lacework, equestrian gear, glassware, basketry, farm and domestic implements and more. The museum also owns a collection of finds from the Santa Cristina archaeological site 5km down the road, but these are only intermittently on display.

Nuraghe LosaARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.nuraghelosa.net; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h9am-1hr before sunset)

Off the SS131 just north of Paulilatino, the Nuraghe Losa is one of Sardinia's most impressive nuraghi. The site’s centrepiece is a three-sided keep surrounded by three circular towers, two joined by a wall and one standing alone. A rough-hewn spiral staircase lets you climb to the 13m summit of the partially destroyed central keep, which dates to the Middle Bronze Age (about 1500 BC). Guided tours (included in price) are available in English, French or Italian with advance notice.

S'ARDIA

On 6 and 7 July Sedilo hosts Oristano’s most exciting festival, S’Ardia , when nearly 50,000 people pack themselves into the tiny village to see Sardinia’s most reckless and dangerous horse race.

It celebrates the Roman Emperor Constantine, who defeated the vastly superior forces of Maxentius at Rome’s Ponte Milvio in AD 312. Since then the festival has received a Christian gloss. Legend has it that Constantine received a vision before the battle, in which he saw a cross inscribed with the words, ‘In Hoc Signo Vinces’ (‘In this sign you will conquer’). He took the sign as the insignia for his forces, and the following year he passed an edict granting the Christians religious freedom. So, locally, although not officially, he was promoted to St Constantine (Santu Antinu in the local dialect).

The race circles the Santuario di San Costantino and the stone cross bearing his insignia. One man – the Prima Pandela (First Flag) – is chosen to bear Constantine’s yellow-brocade standard. He selects two of the best horsemen to ride with him, and they choose three cohorts each. These men will be the Prima Pandela’s guard and, armed with huge sticks, they will strive to prevent the 100 other horsemen from passing him. To be chosen as the Prima Pandela is the highest honour of the village. Only a man who has proven his courage and horsemanship and substantiated his faith can carry the flag.

On 6 July the procession prays in front of the stone cross and the riders are blessed by the parish priest. In theory the priest should start the race, but in practice it is the Prima Pandela who chooses his moment and flies off at a gallop down the hill. The other horsemen are after him in seconds, aiming to pass him before he reaches the victory arch. Hundreds of riflemen shoot off blanks, exciting the horses. The stampede towards the narrow entrance of the victory arch is the most dangerous moment, as any mistake would mean running into the stone columns at top speed. In 2002 one rider was killed. If all goes well, the Prima Pandela passes through the arch and races on to circle the sanctuary, to deafening cheers from the crowd.

Sedilo sits 40km northwest of Oristano, on the SS131.

5Eating

Su CarduleuSARDINIAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 56 31 34; www.sucarduleu.it; Via Sant' Agostino 1, Abbasanta; meals €35-45; h12.30-3pm & 8-10.30pm Thu-Tue)

For a locally sourced gourmet feast, stop in at this Slow Food–acclaimed restaurant run by hometown success story Roberto Serra. Presentation and flavour are both paramount in dishes such as marjoram-scented roast quail and lavender-marinated kid with figs and rock salt.

WORTH A TRIP

FORDONGIANUS

Southwest of Lago Omodeo, the small spa town of Fordongianus was founded by the Roman emperor Trajan in the 1st century AD. Forum Traiani, as it was then known, was an important commercial centre and site of a major baths complex, the remains of which can still be visited.

Terme RomaneROMAN SITE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0783 6 01 57; www.forumtraiani.it; adult/reduced incl Casa Aragonese €4/2; h9.30am-1pm & 3-6.30pm)

The impressive remains of Fordongianus' 1st-century Terme Romane sit on the banks of the river Tirso. In the centre of the complex you’ll see a rectangular pool, which originally was covered by a barrel-vaulted roof and flanked by an imposing portico, a section of which still stands. The 54°C spring water that used to feed the pool has long since been diverted to meet the modern town's needs.

Casa AragoneseHISTORIC BUILDING

( GOOGLE MAP ; adult/reduced incl Terme Romane €4/2; h9.30am-1pm & 3-6pm Tue-Sun)

A characteristic of Fordongianus is the rusty-red trachyte stone of which so many of its buildings are made. As red as the rest is the lovely late-16th-century Casa Aragonese, a typical Catalan noble house with a columned loggia and Gothic windows and portal. The strange statues outside, also fashioned from the ubiquitous trachyte, are the result of an annual sculpture competition held here.

Fordongianus is most easily reached by car or motorcycle along the SS388 from Oristano. Up to eight weekday buses also connect with Oristano (€2.50, 35 minutes).

Bosa

%0785 / Pop 7930

Bosa is one of Sardinia’s most attractive towns. Seen from a distance, its rainbow townscape resembles a vibrant Paul Klee canvas, with pastel houses stacked on a steep hillside, tapering up to a stark, grey castle. In front, moored fishing boats bob on a glassy river elegantly lined with palm trees.

Bosa was established by the Phoenicians and thrived under the Romans. During the early Middle Ages it suffered repeat raids by Arab pirates, but in the early 12th century a branch of the noble Tuscan Malaspina family moved in and built their huge castle. In the 19th century, the Savoys established lucrative tanneries here, but these have since fallen by the wayside.

At the mouth of the Fiume Temo, about 2.5km west of Bosa proper, Bosa Marina is the town’s seaside satellite, a busy summer resort set on a wide, 1km-long beach overlooked by a 16th-century Aragonese defensive tower.

1Sights

Most of Bosa's sights lie on the north bank of the river Temo. The main strip, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, is one block north of the riverfront and leads to the two central piazzas: Piazza Costituzione and Piazza IV Novembre. South of the river, Via Nazionale runs 3km west to Bosa Marina.

Bosa

1Top Sights

1Castello MalaspinaD1

2Museo Casa DeriuC2

1Sights

3Cattedrale dell'ImmacolataD2

4Chiesa di Nostra Signora di Regnos AltosD1

5Museo Delle ConceB2

6Ponte VecchioD2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

7CuccuD3

8Esedra SardegnaC2

4Sleeping

9Corte FioritaC2

10Hotel Sa PischeddaC3

11La Torre di AliceD2

5Eating

12Locanda di CorteC2

13Pizzeria da GiovanniC1

14Sa PischeddaC3

15Trattoria BiancospinoD2

6Drinking & Nightlife

16Caffè I PorticiC2

17Cantina G Battista ColumbuC1

oCastello MalaspinaCASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 70 43; adult/reduced €4/3; h10am-1hr before sunset Apr-Oct, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar)

Commanding huge views, this hilltop castle was built in the 12th and 13th centuries by the Tuscan Malaspina family. Little remains of the original structure except for its skeleton – imposing walls and a series of stone towers. Inside, a humble 14th-century chapel, the Chiesa di Nostra Signora di Regnos Altos ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), is adorned with an extraordinary 14th-century fresco cycle depicting saints ranging from St George slaying the dragon to St Lawrence in the middle of his martyrdom on the grill.

oMuseo Casa DeriuMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 70 43; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 59; adult/reduced €4.50/3; h10.30am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)

Housed in an elegant 19th-century townhouse, Bosa's main museum showcases local arts and artisanal crafts. Each of the three floors has a different theme relating to the city and its past: the 1st floor hosts temporary exhibitions and displays of traditional hand embroidery; the 2nd floor displays the palazzo's original 19th-century decor and furnishings; and the top floor is dedicated to Melkiorre Melis (1889–1982), a local painter and one of Sardinia’s most important modern artists.

Your ticket also grants access to the small Pinacoteca across the street, which houses a collection of paintings by the 20th-century Sardinian artist Antonio Atza.

Cattedrale di San Pietro ExtramurosCATHEDRAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; €2; h9.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-5.30pm, shorter hours winter)

Two kilometres upstream from the Chiesa di Sant’ Antonio Abate is this 11th-century cathedral, said to be the oldest Romanesque church in Sardinia. Originally built in 1073, it was subsequently modified with changes made to the apse in the 12th century and a Gothic facade added a century or so later.

Ponte VecchioBRIDGE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

Spanning the Temo River near the heart of the old town, Bosa's main bridge is a handsome three-arched affair, built from the region's characteristic red trachyte stone. Cross to the southern side for a perfect photo of Bosa's multicoloured houses stacked up below the Castello Malaspina.

Museo Delle ConceMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 70 43; Via Sas Conzas 62; adult/reduced €3.50/2.50; h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Sat & Sun, 10am-1pm Tue-Fri)

On the south bank of the river, this museum occupies Bosa's former tanneries, which remained in business until after WWII. On the ground floor you can see the original stone tanks where the leather hides were washed; upstairs, explanatory panels and a small collection of photos and old tools illustrate the whole tanning process. English-language handouts offer interesting historical details.

Cattedrale dell’ImmacolataCATHEDRAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Duomo; h10am-noon & 4-7pm)

Bosa's cathedral dates to the early 19th century when it was built over an earlier Romanesque church. A rare, if not overly riveting, example of rococo (officially called Piedmontese baroque), it boasts an imposing marble altar and several frescoes by the 19th-century artist Emilio Scherer.

2Activities

Bosa is an important wine centre, renowned for its dessert wine, Malvasia. With advance notice, tastings can be arranged at major local producers, including G Battista Columbu (www.malvasiacolumbu.com), Emidio Oggianu (www.malvasiaoggianu.it), Zarelli (www.zarellivini.it) and Angelo Angioi (www.saltodicoloras.com).

Bosa DivingDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %335 8189748; www.bosadiving.com; Piazza Paul Harris Banchina Commerciale Foce del Temo, Bosa Marina)

This established operator offers a series of packages, including guided dives (from €45) and snorkelling excursions (€25). It also hires out canoes (single/double €7/10 per hour) and dinghies (for four people from €150 per day).

CuccuCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 32 98; Via Roma 5; h9am-1pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat)

To explore out of town, you can hire scooters (€40 per day) and bikes (€10 per day) at this mechanic's shop on the southern side of the river.

TTours

Trenino VerdeRAIL

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.treninoverde.com; return fare Bosa Marina to Tresnuraghes/Macomer €15/18; hmid-Jun–early Sep)

For a different take on the area, the summer-only trenino verde (little green train) runs, slowly, between Bosa Marina, Tresnuraghes and Macomer. Travel times from Bosa Marina are one hour to Tresnuraghes and 2½ hours to Macomer. Schedules vary from year to year; see the website for details.

Esedra SardegnaTOURS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 42 58; www.esedrasardegna.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 64; h9.30am-1pm & 4.30-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-1pm Sun)

A reliable local operator that offers a wide range of packages, including river cruises, birdwatching excursions, boat tours, guided shop visits and train trips on the trenino verde. Prices vary, but are usually between €25 and €35 per person.

zFestivals & Events

CarnevaleCARNIVAL

(Carrasegare Osincu; hFeb)

Carnevale kicks off with a burning pyre outside the Chiesa di Sant’Antonio Abate and follows with days of parades, culminating in boisterous celebrations on martedi grasso (Shrove Tuesday).

On the Tuesday morning, townsfolk dress in black to lament the passing of Carnevale, while in the evening, groups of locals dress in white to hunt the giolzi, a manifestation of the carnival that is said to hide in people’s groins. To find it people hold lanterns up to each other’s nether regions shouting ‘Giolzi! Giolzi! Ciappadu! Ciappadu!’ (Giolzi! Giolzi! Gotcha! Gotcha!).

Festa di Santa Maria del MareRELIGIOUS

(hAug)

For four days around the first Sunday of August, Bosa celebrates the Festa di Santa Maria del Mare. Fishers form a colourful procession of boats to accompany a figure of the Virgin Mary from Bosa Marina to the cathedral. Fireworks and folkloristic performances add to the fun.

Festa di Nostra Signora di Regnos AltosRELIGIOUS

(hSep)

In the second week of September, streets in the old town are bedecked with huge palm fronds, flowers and altarittos (votive altars) to celebrate the Festa di Nostra Signora di Regnos Altos.

5Eating

Seafood figures prominently on local menus, with most eateries concentrated along the riverfront, in the narrow alleyways of the historic centre, or out on the coast at Bosa Marina.

Pizzeria da GiovanniPIZZA€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Via Ginnasio 6; pizza slices €1.30-2.50; hnoon-2pm & 6-10pm, closed lunch Wed & Sun)

For a quick bite on the hoof, head to this humble, no-frills takeaway and join the ever-present queue of locals for a taste of Giovanni's fabulous sliced pizza.

oLocanda di CorteSARDINIAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %340 2474823; www.facebook.com/LocandaDiCorte; Via del Pozzo 7; meals €30-35; h12.30-2.30pm & 7.30-10pm Wed-Mon)

Wriggle through Bosa's backstreets to discover this sweet local trattoria on a secluded cobblestoned square. Owners Angelo and Angela work the small collection of tables adorned with red-and-white-checked cloths, while their son Nicola cooks up scrumptious Sardinian classics such as fregola pasta with mussels, clams and cherry tomatoes, or pork chops in Cannonau wine.

Trattoria BiancospinoTRATTORIA€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 41 58; www.facebook.com/trattoriabiancospino; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 6; meals €35; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm)

A cosy little spot near the cathedral, Biancospino offers inventive menus that take liberties with traditional recipes – for example, recasting Sardinia's classic cheese-and-honey seadas dessert as a savoury appetiser with Gorgonzola, bacon and asparagus, or combining grilled squid with green tomatoes, fennel and orange.

Sa PischeddaSEAFOOD€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 30 65; www.hotelsapischedda.com; Via Nazionale; meals €30-40, pizzas €7-9; hnoon-3pm & 7.30-11pm)

At the hotel of the same name, Sa Pischedda is one of Bosa’s top restaurants. With tables laid out on a romantic verandah and in a stylish back garden, it specialises in fish (both fresh-water and salt-water), but also does excellent pasta and pizza.

oEssenza del GustoSEAFOOD€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 30 13; www.facebook.com/nannisolinas65; Viale Mediterraneo 48; meals €40-50; h1-3pm & 8-11pm Tue-Sun)

For some of Bosa's best seafood – and a Mediterranean view to boot – make a beeline for this high-end local favourite in Bosa Marina. Fresh fish is exquisitely presented in dishes that range from a jazzed-up frittura mista (fried shrimp and calamari in a feather-light tempura-like batter) to fresh tuna tataki with sesame seeds, all accompanied by top local wines.

The atmosphere may feel a tad formal for some, but the food is as good as you'll find anywhere on this stretch of coast.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Cantina G Battista ColumbuWINE BAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %339 5731677; www.malvasiacolumbu.com; Via del Carmine 104; h10.30am-1.30pm & 5.30-9pm)

A wonderful venue for sampling Bosa's renowned Malvasia, this attractive cantina is operated by the Columbu family, which has been producing wine in the region for three generations. Sip glasses (€3 to €4) of their smooth-as-silk, sherry-like Malvasia di Bosa and aromatic Alvariga along with wines from other Sardinian vintners, accompanied by local salumi and formaggi (cold cuts and cheeses).

Visits to local vineyards can also be arranged upon request.

Caffè I PorticiCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Costituzione 6; h7am-9pm, later in summer)

Perfect for a leisurely evening drink, Caffè I Portici is a bustling cafe with outdoor tables on Piazza Costituzione, a prime people-watching spot.

8Information

Banco di SardegnaATM

( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza IV Novembre)

FarmaciaPHARMACY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %0785 37 31 32; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 51; h9am-12.30pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri)

Post OfficePOST

( GOOGLE MAP ; Via Pischedda 1; h8.20am-7.05pm Mon-Fri, to 12.35pm Sat)

Pro Loco BosaTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %349 9360900; www.facebook.com/prolocobosa.info; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 33b; h10am-1pm & 3.30-7pm)

Conveniently located tourist office on Bosa's main pedestrian thoroughfare, just north of the Ponte Vecchio.

8Getting There & Away

Bus

There are weekday services from the bus stops ( GOOGLE MAP ; Piazza Zanetti) to Alghero (€3.70, 55 minutes, two daily), Sassari (€4.30, 2¼ hours, three daily) and Oristano (€5.50, two hours, five daily). Buy tickets at Edicola da Oscar ( GOOGLE MAP ; Corso Vittorio Emanuele 80; h6am-8pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun).

Car & Motorcycle

Bosa is connected to Oristano and Cuglieri by the SS292 and Alghero by the scenic coastal roads SP49 and SP105. The SS129 offers access to Macomer and other inland destinations.

Look for free street parking west of the centre in the modern town, or along the riverbank just south of Bosa's main bridge.