Chapter02

Homemade mozzarella is warm, tender, milky and easier to make than you might think. Sal Lamboglia, a chef at Bar Primi in New York City, starts with store-bought curds. He softens them with very hot water, then starts pulling (stretching the pieces like taffy and folding them over and around to form balls of delicate cheese). “Eat it within the hour,” he says. As if anyone could wait.

Tomato slices, basil leaves, extra-virgin olive oil, sea salt and pepper, for serving

1. In a large heatproof bowl, soak the cheese curds in lukewarm water for 10 minutes to bring them to room temperature. Pour off the water. Toss the cheese curds with the kosher salt (A) .

2. Heat 2 quarts of water to 170° (measured on a candy thermometer). Slowly pour the water around the edge of the bowl until the cheese curds are completely submerged; be sure not to pour the water directly on the curds (B) . Let the curds stand in the hot water, without stirring, until they begin to melt together into a mass, about 1 minute (C) .

3. Using 2 wooden spoons or spatulas, pull the curd up from the bottom and fold it over onto itself until it’s smooth and silky and forms tender strands, about 3 minutes (D) .

4. Fill a large bowl with cold water. Pull a fist-size piece of the warm curd and form it into a ball by stretching and tucking it under and into itself (E) . Pinch off the ball and drop it into the cold water. Repeat with the remaining curd.

5. Slice the mozzarella and serve with tomatoes, fresh basil, a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of sea salt and pepper (F) . Or wrap the mozzarella balls in plastic and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Choose Wisely

Be sure to use only mozzarella curds, as other kinds will not yield the same results.

Pulling batter-coated tempura hot out of the oil makes vegetables—even kale—absolutely irresistible. New York City–based recipe developer Kay Chun creates a batter that fries up ultralight and shatteringly crisp. Her secret weapon: fizzy club soda. (The bubbles produce an incredible airy texture.) A tangy ponzu-based sauce is perfect for dipping.

1 small Delicata squash (1 lb.)—halved lengthwise, seeded and sliced crosswise ⅛ to ¼ inch thick

1. In a colander, toss the eggplant with 1 teaspoon of salt and let stand for 15 minutes. Rinse and squeeze gently to remove excess water (A) .

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the ponzu sauce, lime juice, ginger and scallion. Set aside the dipping sauce (B) .

3. In a Dutch oven, heat 1½ inches of oil to between 365° and 370°. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornstarch, baking powder and 1 teaspoon of salt. Gently whisk in the club soda just until a batter forms. Do not overmix; some lumps are OK (C) . Working in batches, dip the eggplant, squash, sweet potato and lemon slices into the batter, letting the excess drip off (D) . Carefully lower the vegetables and fruit into the hot oil (E) . Fry, turning occasionally, until cooked through, light golden and crispy, about 2 minutes (F) . Let the oil to return to 365° to 370° between batches. Transfer the tempura to a paper towel–lined wire rack set over a baking sheet to drain. Repeat with the kale, if using (be careful; the oil will splatter), frying a few leaves at a time. Season the tempura with salt and serve with the dipping sauce (G, H) .

Batter Up

The tempura batter is also fabulous on onion rings, broccoli florets and asparagus spears—or try it on leafy herbs like Japanese shiso and Korean perilla.

Real beef jerky isn’t the smoky stick of preserved mystery meat you may think it is. Case in point: Rachel Graville of Iris Café in Brooklyn has a cult following for her handcrafted artisanal versions. She starts with lean beef (fat interferes with the drying process), then slices it by hand. For the seasonings, she urges not to overdo it. “You want to be able to taste the beef,” she says.

1. Make the marinade
In a saucepan, boil the coffee, Coca-Cola and star anise until reduced by half, about 10 minutes (A) . Pour the reduction into a large bowl and let cool to room temperature, stirring often. Add the soy sauce, fish sauce, lime juice and sambal oelek and stir well (B) .

2. Prepare the meat
Cut the beef into ¼-inch-thick slices, either with or against the grain (C) . Add the beef to the marinade, a few slices at a time, stirring well to coat each slice (D) . Cover and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours.

3. Dry the meat
Preheat the oven to 200°. Set a large wire rack on each of 3 large rimmed baking sheets. Remove the beef from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange the beef on the racks, leaving ¼ inch between slices (E) . Bake for about 4 hours, until the jerky is firm and almost completely dry, but still chewy. Let cool completely on the racks before serving (F) .

MAKE AHEAD The dried-beef jerky can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 6 weeks.

1. Make the marinade
In a large bowl, combine the ale or lager with the soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce and cracked black peppercorns.

2. Prepare the meat
Cut the beef into ¼-inch-thick slices, either with or against the grain. Add the beef to the marinade, a few slices at a time, stirring well to coat each slice. Cover and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours.

3. Dry the meat
Preheat the oven to 200°. Set a large wire rack on each of 3 large rimmed baking sheets. Remove the beef from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Arrange the beef on the racks, leaving ¼ inch between slices. Sprinkle with the coarsely ground black pepper. Bake for about 4 hours, until the jerky is firm and almost completely dry, but still chewy. Let cool completely on the racks before serving.

MAKE AHEAD The dried-beef jerky can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 6 weeks.

Jerky Basics

Slicing
Graville slices meat by hand. She likes the imperfections of the artisanal approach.

Marinating
The beef gets saltier the longer it marinates; soak it for no more than 8 hours.

Drying
Graville prefers a home dehydrator like Nesco American Harvest but says that a 200° oven works just as well for first-timers.

If you want to make a truly memorable soup, starting with homemade stock is a must. Here, two stellar versions: a traditional one from André Soltner, the revered chef and dean of classic studies at the International Culinary Center in New York City; plus, a quick pressure-cooker option from Momofuku founder David Chang with an extra-concentrated flavor from freeze-dried chicken.

Combine all of the ingredients in a large pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, partially cover and simmer for 1 hour, skimming as necessary. Transfer the chicken to a rimmed baking sheet and let cool slightly. Remove all of the meat from the chicken and return the bones and skin to the pot; reserve the meat for another use. Partially cover and simmer the stock for 1 hour longer. Strain the stock and let cool. Skim off the fat before using. —André Soltner

MAKE AHEAD The stock can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 month.

1. In a large pot, combine the water, onion, fennel, scallions, garlic and coriander and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes.

2. Strain the broth and return it to the pot. Add the kombu. Cook over very low heat (140°) for 10 minutes. Discard the kombu.

3. Transfer the broth to a pressure cooker. Add the drumsticks, thighs, shiitake and freeze-dried chicken. Close and seal the pressure cooker and bring it to full pressure according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Cook for 25 minutes. Strain and let cool. —David Chang

MAKE AHEAD The stock can be refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 month.

If you’ve only had this soup in a takeout container, then read on. Ed Schoenfeld, Chinese-food expert and owner of RedFarm in New York City, creates an exceptional silky version that’s ready in the time it takes for delivery. Traditional ingredients like earthy tree ear fungus, tender bamboo shoots and lily buds—all available at Chinese markets and online—make it wonderfully complex.

1. In a small heatproof bowl, cover the lily buds with hot water and let stand until softened, about 30 minutes (A) . Cut off and discard the tough tips. In another small heatproof bowl, cover the dried tree ear fungus with hot water and let stand until softened, about 20 to 30 minutes (B) . Rinse, drain and coarsely chop (C) .

2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan, bring the chicken broth to a boil (D) . Add the 2 tablespoons each of vinegar and soy sauce and ½ teaspoon of salt. In a small bowl, whisk the cornstarch with 3 tablespoons of water, then add the mixture to the boiling broth, stirring constantly (E) . Let the broth return to a simmer and cook until it thickens, about 3 to 4 minutes.

3. In a bowl, beat the eggs with a pinch of salt. Bring the soup to a full rolling boil and, using a circular motion, pour in the beaten eggs (F) . Wait 5 seconds, then turn off the heat and stir the soup to distribute the eggs throughout.

4. Add the lily buds, tree ear fungus, bamboo shoots, chicken, tofu and white pepper (G) . Simmer over moderate heat until the flavors meld, about 2 minutes. Season with soy sauce, vinegar and salt (H) .

5. Ladle the soup into 4 bowls. Drizzle with sesame oil, garnish with scallions and cilantro and serve (I) .

Ingredient Intel

Lily buds
With an earthy, sweet taste, these unopened buds of the day lily are very popular in China.

Tree ear fungus
Dried dark brown to black fungi (a.k.a. wood ear mushrooms) with a mild flavor.

Spiced thick dry tofu
Pressed to remove all moisture, these tofu cakes get their distinctive flavor from Chinese five-spice powder.

These lacy savory bánh xèo pancakes from Marcia Kiesel, co-author of Simple Art of Vietnamese Cooking, represent everything we love about the Southeast Asian cuisine: Studded with pork and shrimp and folded around sprouts, they’re hot and crisp, cold and juicy, and invigoratingly aromatic.

1. Make the dipping sauce
In a mortar, pound the chiles, garlic and sugar to a paste. Stir in the fish sauce, lime juice and 2 tablespoons of water.

2. Make the pancakes
In a bowl, whisk together the rice flour and 2 cups of cold water. Mix in the turmeric and scallion (A) .

3. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1½ tablespoons of the vegetable oil over high heat. Add 3 slices of pork, 3 shrimp and a few slices of onion and mushroom. Season with ⅛ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Cook for 1 minute (B) . Stir the rice flour mixture again and ladle ⅓ cup into the pan; tilt the pan to evenly distribute the batter. Cover and cook until the sides of the pancake turn deep brown and curl up, 5 minutes. Scatter ¼ cup of the bean sprouts over the pancake, fold it in half and slide it onto a warm platter (C) . Keep warm in a low oven while you repeat with the remaining ingredients. Serve the pancakes warm, with the dipping sauce on the side.

Inspired by the udon he learned to make in Tokyo, David Chang of New York City’s Momofuku Noodle Bar makes rustic hand-cut noodles that come together in just minutes. He slices the dough into uneven strips, which he then cooks quickly in a vegetarian broth that’s deeply flavored with umami-rich shiitake mushrooms. Keep reading to get your slurp on.

1. In a large pot, combine the kombu with 14 cups of water and bring to a simmer. Cook over low heat, without boiling, for 30 minutes (A) . Discard the kombu and bring the cooking broth to a boil. Add the ground mushrooms and return to a boil (B) . Remove from the heat, cover and let steep for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, mix the flour and ¾ cup of water at medium speed just until the flour is moistened (C) . Increase the speed to medium-high and beat until a smooth, firm, elastic dough forms, 8 to 10 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic; let stand for 30 minutes (D) .

3. Strain the broth into a heatproof bowl. Wipe out the pot and return the broth to it. Add the soy sauce and mirin and bring to a boil. Add the fresh shiitake and Swiss chard and cook just until tender, about 2 minutes; keep warm (E) .

4. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out ⅛ inch thick (F) . Using a pastry wheel, slice the dough into uneven strips (G) . Bring the broth back to a boil and add the noodles (H) . Cook, stirring, until the noodles are tender and the soup is slightly thickened, 5 minutes. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with kimchi and a little honey (I) .

NOTE Kombu, a type of kelp often used to flavor Japanese soups, is available at Japanese markets and at some supermarkets and health-food stores.

Double the Mushrooms, Double the Flavor

Chang infuses this fabulous kombu broth with dried shiitake; fresh shiitake intensify the flavor.

Thomas McNaughton, the chef and dough master at San Francisco’s Flour + Water, is renowned for his ethereal Neapolitan-style pies. They bake up tender inside and crisp outside, even in a standard home oven. The key is using a small amount of yeast for a long, slow rise, resulting in complex, nuanced flavors. Learn how to make his dough, perfect pizza sauce and three toppings.

1. Make the dough
Lightly dust a very large bowl with flour. In a small bowl, whisk the yeast with ¼ cup of the water and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.

2. In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the 1¾ pounds of flour with the yeast mixture and the remaining 1¾ cups of water and mix at low speed for 1 minute. Increase the speed to medium and mix until all of the flour is incorporated, about 4 minutes. Add the salt and mix at medium speed until a soft, smooth dough forms, about 5 minutes longer.

3. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and form it into a large ball. Transfer the dough to the prepared bowl and cover the bowl securely with plastic wrap so that it’s airtight. Let the dough stand in a warm place until it has doubled in bulk, about 8 hours. Refrigerate the dough for at least 8 hours or overnight.

5. Lightly dust 2 large baking sheets with flour. Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and punch it down. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into 5 even pieces. Form the pieces into balls and transfer them to the prepared baking sheets (A, B) . Using the tip of a paring knife, gently pop any air bubbles on the surface of each ball. Securely cover the dough balls by sliding each baking sheet into a clean 13-gallon plastic kitchen bag and tying them closed. Let the dough stand in a warm place until it has a little more than doubled in bulk, about 8 hours (C) . Refrigerate the dough for at least 8 hours or overnight.

6. Shape and assemble the pizza
Set a pizza stone on a rack in the top third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 500° for at least 45 minutes. Meanwhile, remove the baking sheets from the refrigerator and let the dough stand for 20 minutes.

7. Working on a floured surface and using your fingers, press and stretch a dough ball out to a 10-inch round, working from the center toward the edge; avoid pressing on the outermost edge (D) . Transfer the dough to a lightly floured pizza peel (E) . Add sauce and toppings to the dough as desired, making sure to leave a 1-inch border around the edge (F) .

8. Bake the pizza
Turn the oven to broil for 5 minutes, then return it to 500°. Slide the pizza onto the pizza stone, opening and closing the oven door as quickly as possible. Bake until the bottom is lightly charred and the toppings are bubbling, about 6 minutes for a chewier crust and 8 minutes for a crispier one; avoid opening the oven door during baking. Repeat with the remaining pizza dough and toppings.

NOTE Doppio zero, or “00” flour, a fine Italian flour, is available at specialty food shops and online from amazon.com . To accurately weigh small quantities, use a scale that counts in 0.01-gram increments, such as one from American Weigh ($25; amazon.com ).

Less is More

“Flour, salt, water and yeast—that’s it,” says McNaughton about this supersimple dough recipe, the same one he uses to make his amazing restaurant pies.

Turn Up the Heat

Set your oven to the highest temperature possible. If you have a convection feature, turn it on to circulate the hot air around the pizza.

Just a Little Sprinkle

Dust the peel sparingly with flour; if you use too much, it will stick to the bottom of the pizza and burn.

Perfect Pizza Sauce
Pass one 28-oz. can whole San Marzano tomatoes through a food mill. Blend the puree with 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt.

Margherita
Spread ½ cup Perfect Pizza Sauce onto the dough and top with ¼ lb. thinly sliced fresh mozzarella cheese, 10 fresh basil leaves, a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a light grating of Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Sausage and Olive
Spread ⅓ cup Perfect Pizza Sauce onto the dough and top with 2 oz. uncooked crumbled Italian sausage, ¼ cup pitted and halved Gaeta olives, 1 tsp. chopped capers, ½ tsp. chopped oregano and ¼ cup shaved Pecorino Sardo cheese.

Squash and Arugula
Skip the sauce. Grate Parmigiano-Reggiano over the dough and top with ¾ cup shredded Fontina cheese, 2 oz. thinly sliced summer squash (about ½ small squash), 1 tsp. chopped rosemary and 1 or 2 chopped Calabrian red chiles. Scatter ½ cup arugula leaves on the pizza after baking.

Crust Helper

Nathan Myhrvold’s Modernist Cuisine recommends a steel slab instead of a pizza stone because it retains heat better. $89; bakingsteel.com .

A good risotto should have plump grains of flavor-packed rice suspended in a thick, creamy sauce. Cookbook author Grace Parisi achieves just that with her Milanese risotto, which gets a brilliant hue and subtle aroma from saffron. Parisi’s hard-learned steps for success? Coat the grains in olive oil, season the stock and let the rice absorb the broth slowly.

1. In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a simmer; keep warm. In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, season with salt and pepper and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes (A) . Add the rice and cook for 1 minute, stirring to thoroughly coat.

2. Crumble the saffron into the wine and add it to the rice. Cook, stirring, until the wine is absorbed. Add 1 cup of the warm stock and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until nearly absorbed (B) . Continue adding the stock ½ cup at a time, stirring constantly and waiting until the stock is nearly absorbed between additions.

3. The risotto is done when the rice is al dente and suspended in a thick, creamy sauce, about 20 minutes total. Season the risotto with salt and pepper, then stir in the cheese, butter and parsley (C) . Serve immediately.

An aromatic broth is the secret to a phenomenal fish stew. “Once you make the broth, you can do a million things with it,” says Mark Sullivan of Spruce in San Francisco. Each of his regional variations has its own distinct character, but they’re all built the same way, starting with a rich fish stock and ending with flavorful extras like fennel pollen and mint or a luscious garlicky aioli. Following this formula, you can riff on these recipes with whatever is freshest at your market.

1. In a large bowl, cover the fish head and bones with ice water and let soak for 1 hour. Drain well.

2. In a large stockpot, heat the olive oil. Add the onion, fennel, celery and garlic and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened but not browned, about 15 minutes. Add the fish head and bones along with the mussels, clams, white wine and chicken stock. Simmer over low heat for 1 hour, skimming off the foam as it rises to the surface.

3. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the lemon, thyme and parsley sprigs, bay leaf and peppercorns. Let steep for 30 minutes.

A Better Broth

“You’re never going to get a great fish stew without a great broth,” Sullivan says. The fish head and bones lend flavor and body; they’re soaked first to remove blood and impurities, ensuring a pristine stock with pure flavor.

1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the remaining aromatics and sauté over moderately high heat until fragrant, about 1 minute.

2. Add the liquids and bring to a simmer. Add the seafood in stages, in order of cook time: Cook the halibut and shrimp until opaque, flipping once, about 8 minutes; and the clams and mussels until they open, 3 to 4 minutes.Discard any clams or mussels that don’t open.

Stew Go-With: Baguette Toasts

Plain
Preheat the oven to 425˚. Arrange eight ½-inch-thick baguette slices, cut on the diagonal, on a baking sheet. Drizzle the bread with extra-virgin olive oil and toast until lightly golden, about 5 minutes.

Garlic
Rub the toasts with a halved garlic clove.

Garlic-tomato
Rub the toasts with a halved garlic clove, then with a halved tomato.

1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the remaining aromatics and sauté over moderately high heat until fragrant, about 1 minute.

2. Add the liquids and bring to a simmer. Add the seafood in stages, in order of cook time: Cook the halibut and shrimp until opaque, flipping once, about 8 minutes; the clams and mussels until they open, 3 to 4 minutes; and the scallops until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Discard any clams or mussels that don’t open.

3. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the seafood to 4 serving bowls. Pour half of the broth into a large bowl and vigorously whisk in ½ cup of the aioli until smooth. Pour the aioli-enriched broth back into the pot and whisk once more, then pour it over the seafood in the serving bowls. Garnish with tarragon. Pass the remaining aioli at the table.

In a mini food processor, combine 1 garlic clove with 1 large egg yolk, 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice and 1 Tbsp. water. With the machine on, slowly drizzle in 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil. Season with salt. Makes about 1¼ cups.

1. In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the remaining aromatics and sauté over moderately high heat until fragrant, about 1 minute.

2. Add the liquids and bring to a simmer. Add the seafood in stages, in order of cook time: Cook the shrimp until opaque, flipping once, about 8 minutes; the clams and mussels until they open, 3 to 4 minutes; and the squid until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Discard any clams or mussels that don’t open.

“There are a lot of bad gumbos out there because people are afraid to take the roux where it needs to go,” says Slade Rushing about the classic base of flour and fat. Where it “needs to go” is from a pale beige to deep mahogany. At Brennan’s in New Orleans, Rushing prepares a gumbo that’s rich and soulful. It all starts with a deep brown roux that “smells like a roomful of toasted hazelnuts.”

1. Make the crab stock
In a large pot, combine all of the ingredients except the crabs and bring to a boil. Add the crabs and simmer briskly over moderate heat for 1 hour, skimming as necessary. Strain the stock into a pot. You should have about 12 cups; add water if necessary, or reserve any extra for another use. Discard the crabs.

2. Make the gumbo
In a large pot, heat the oil. Whisk in the flour and cook over moderately low heat, whisking constantly, until the roux is deep mahogany brown with a nutty aroma, about 40 minutes.

3. Stir in the andouille, onion, celery, red and green bell peppers, garlic and okra and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables soften, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes, filé powder, Creole seasoning, thyme, bay leaf, salt and the 12 cups of crab stock. Simmer over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until reduced and thickened, about 1½ hours.

4. Stir in the crabmeat, shrimp, oysters and 2 tablespoons of hot sauce and cook until the shrimp are white throughout, about 3 minutes. Discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Ladle the gumbo into bowls and top with rice. Garnish with scallions; serve with hot sauce.

NOTE Filé powder, made from ground sassafras leaves, gives gumbo its distinctive earthy, vegetal flavor. It’s available from amazon.com .

MAKE AHEAD The gumbo can be prepared 3 days ahead through Step 3. Reheat gently and cook the seafood just before serving.

Making maki rolls may seem daunting, but it requires just three things: high-quality ingredients, a bamboo mat and practice. Masaharu Morimoto, Iron Chef star and owner of Morimoto restaurants around the world, raises the sushi bar for home cooks with his foolproof technique.

Gari (thin slices of pickled young ginger) and good-quality soy sauce, for serving

1. Make the sushi rice
Rinse the rice 5 times, then drain in a colander and let dry for 15 minutes. Cook the rice in a rice cooker. Alternatively, in a medium saucepan, combine the rice with 2 cups of cold water and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover and cook over moderate heat for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 10 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, for 15 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine both vinegars with the sugar and salt and warm over moderate heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.

3. Transfer the rice to a very large bowl. Sprinkle ½ cup of the seasoned vinegar all over the rice: Drizzle onto a spatula while waving it back and forth (A) . Using a slicing motion with the spatula, gently separate the rice grains while mixing in the seasoning. Fan the rice while mixing it to help it dry. Wipe down any stray grains from the side of the bowl. Cover the rice with a damp towel to keep warm.

4. Prepare the fish
If a piece of tuna is sinewy, simply scrape the meat off the sinews with a sharp knife. Slice the fish across the grain into strips about 4 inches long and ¼ inch thick (B) .

5. Spread the rice for the maki
Carefully wave a sheet of nori over an open flame until crisp and fragrant, then transfer to a bamboo mat. Wet your hands in water that’s seasoned with rice vinegar, then scoop up ½ cup of sushi rice. Gently form the rice into a loosely packed, palm-width log and place it at one edge of the nori (C) . Begin spreading the rice across to the other side.

6. Add the wasabi and filling
Continue to spread the rice all over the nori, rewetting your hands as necessary, until an even layer covers all but a ¼-inch border at the top edge. Spread about ¼ teaspoon of wasabi lengthwise along the middle of the rice (D) . Lay about 2 ounces of the filling (a single ingredient or a combination) along the center of the rice (E) .

7. Roll the maki
Roll the bamboo mat up and away from you, curling the nori and rice around the filling; use your fingers to hold the filling in place as you roll (F) . Secure the roll with the ¼-inch flap of nori. Once the roll is sealed, gently squeeze, pressing gently on the top and sides, to compress the roll slightly and form a rough square shape. Press on each end of the roll to make a neat surface (G) .

8. Cut the maki
Transfer the roll to a work surface. Dip the tip of a long, sharp knife into vinegar water; let the water run down the length of the blade. Using a long slicing motion, cut the maki in half, then cut each half into thirds to form six even pieces, rewetting the blade as needed (H, I) . Repeat with the remaining ingredients. Serve with gari and soy sauce.

Fish Prep Tips

To be eaten safely, sushi-grade fish must be handled correctly: It should be frozen for at least one day to kill any parasites. For the best flavor and texture in oily, strong-smelling fresh fish, such as salmon and mackerel, rub the fillets with fine sea salt and let stand for 30 minutes; rinse the fish well, pat dry and sprinkle all over with rice vinegar.

We count the days till this seasonal delicacy is available. At North Pond in Chicago, Bruce Sherman pairs the crispy fried crabs with salty slices of pancetta on small rounds of brioche slathered with homemade remoulade (mayonnaise mixed with mustard, capers, cornichons and herbs). Here, that dish is simplified and reimagined as a hefty sandwich.

1. In a small bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, cornichons, red onion, tarragon, capers and mustard. Season the remoulade with salt and pepper.

2. In a large skillet, arrange the pancetta slices in a single layer. Place a flat pot lid, slightly smaller than the skillet, directly on the pancetta to weigh it down. Cook over moderate heat, turning once, until the pancetta is crisp, about 6 minutes. Drain the pancetta on paper towels; wipe out the skillet.

3. Using scissors, snip the eyes off the crabs. Lift each side of the top shell and remove the gills underneath (A) .

4. In the skillet, melt the butter in the oil. Season the crabs with salt and pepper and dust them generously with flour (B) . Add the crabs to the skillet and cook over high heat, turning once, until crisp, about 7 minutes (C) .

5. Spread the remoulade on the cut sides of the buns. Arrange the pancetta on the bottoms and top with the arugula, tomato slices and crabs. Close the sandwiches, cut them in half and serve.

WINE Vivid, red cherry–inflected rosé, such as one from California’s Russian River Valley.

Cooking food sous vide—simmering it in vacuum-sealed plastic bags in precisely heated water baths—seems like a trick only fancy chefs with immersion circulators can pull off. But home cooks can re-create the incredibly moist, flavorful results with just a countertop vacuum packer and a pot fitted with a candy thermometer. Read on to learn how to sous vide radishes until they’re sweet-firm and turn salmon fillets buttery-soft and rare in just 12 minutes.

25 to 30 assorted radishes, such as French breakfast, watermelon and daikon—quartered or sliced so that all are ½ inch thick (5 cups; see Note below)

1. In a pot fitted with a candy thermometer, preheat a water bath to 122° for rare salmon, 160° for medium. Light a grill or heat a grill pan. Season the sliced cucumber with salt and black pepper. Grill over high heat, turning once, until lightly charred, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

2. Season the salmon with salt and white pepper; transfer to four 1-quart vacuum-pack bags and vacuum-seal. Submerge the bags in the water bath and cook at the desired temperature for 12 minutes.

3. In a blender, blend the yogurt with the dill; season with salt and black pepper. In a small bowl, toss the julienned cucumber with the olive oil and lemon juice; season with salt. Remove the fillets from the bags and transfer to plates. Top with the grilled and julienned cucumber, dollop with the dill sauce and serve. —Maria Hines; Tilth, Seattle

2 seedless cucumbers, peeled— 1 sliced crosswise ¼ inch thick, 1 halved, seeded and julienned

1. In a pot fitted with a candy thermometer, preheat a water bath to 181°. In a medium bowl, season one-third of the radishes with salt and white pepper. Transfer them to a 1-gallon vacuum-pack bag, arranging them in a single layer, and vacuum-seal. Submerge the bag in the water bath and cook at 181° for 20 minutes. Fill a bowl with ice water. Transfer the bag to the ice bath; let cool.

2. Meanwhile, in another medium bowl, combine the lemon zest and juice with the orange zest and juice, shallot, sugar and vinegar. Whisk in 1 cup of olive oil; season the vinaigrette with salt and white pepper.

3. In a grill pan, heat a thin layer of olive oil. Add another one-third of the radishes and cook over moderately high heat, turning, until browned and just tender, about 7 minutes; transfer to plates with the sous vide radishes and remaining fresh radishes, drizzle with the vinaigrette, sprinkle with salt and serve. —Viet Pham and Bowman Brown; formerly of Forage, Salt Lake City

NOTE For safe sous vide cooking, use only the freshest ingredients, chill them in the refrigerator before sealing in plastic and cook them right after sealing or keep them in the refrigerator; unseal them promptly after cooking.

“People say my chicken reminds them of the fried chicken their families made when they were young,” says Josh Galliano of Companion bakery in St. Louis. “And that’s a hell of a compliment.” A sweet-tea brine, a buttermilk soak and a deep-fry in lard—that’s the “traditional flavor,” according to Galliano. Here, he details the steps behind his finger-lickin’ recipe.

1. Make the tea brine
Fill a large saucepan with 8 cups of water and add the tea bags, salt, sugar and 2 tablespoons of the Creole spice mix. Bring just to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar; let steep for 10 minutes. Discard the tea bags and let the brine cool completely. Submerge the chicken in the brine, cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours.

2. Make the buttermilk soak
In a large bowl, whisk the buttermilk with the hot sauce, eggs and 2 tablespoons of the Creole spice mix. Drain the chicken, discarding the brine. Add the chicken to the buttermilk mixture, turning to coat completely. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.

3. Fry the chicken
Preheat the oven to 250°. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with wax paper. In a large bowl, whisk the flour with the cornmeal, cornstarch and remaining ½ cup of Creole spice mix. Remove the chicken from the buttermilk, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Dredge the chicken in the flour mixture, then transfer it to the prepared baking sheet.

4. In a large, heavy saucepan, heat 1½ inches of lard to 350°. Set a rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Add half of the coated chicken to the lard and fry at 300°, turning occasionally, until golden brown and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of each piece registers 155°, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer the fried chicken to the rack and keep warm in the oven while you fry the second batch.

NOTE Frying chicken in lard makes the crust light, crunchy and less likely to get soggy. Look for rendered fresh lard at butcher shops and farmers’ markets.

In a medium bowl, whisk together ½ cup paprika, ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. kosher salt, 2 Tbsp. each garlic powder, onion powder and black pepper, 1 Tbsp. each dried thyme, dried oregano and dried basil, 2 tsp. cayenne, 1½ tsp. sugar and ½ tsp. crushed red pepper. Makes 1½ cups.

Kicking It Up

The spice mix recipe makes ¾ cup more than you’ll need for the chicken. You can also triple or quadruple it to use in gumbo or jambalaya, or mix it one-to-one with light brown sugar to use as a dry rub for brisket, ribs or pulled pork.

Legend has it that this dish was invented at a restaurant in Punjab when a British patron complained that his chicken tikka was too dry—the chef doctored it with a can of tomato soup and spices. This version from cookbook author Grace Parisi ditches the canned soup for a fresh-tasting, slightly spicy tomato cream sauce that’s straight-up addictive.

1. Make the masala marinade
In a large glass or stainless steel bowl, combine the yogurt, garlic, ginger, cumin, coriander, cardamom, cayenne and turmeric. Season with salt and black pepper (A) .

2. Prepare the chicken
Using a sharp knife, make a few shallow slashes in each piece of chicken (B) . Add the chicken to the marinade, turn to coat and refrigerate overnight.

3. Preheat the broiler and position a rack about 8 inches from the heat. Remove the chicken from the marinade; scrape off as much of the marinade as possible (C) . Season the chicken with salt and black pepper and spread the pieces on a baking sheet. Broil the chicken, turning once or twice, until just cooked through and browned in spots, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and cut it into 2-inch pieces (D) .

4. Meanwhile, in a small skillet, heat 1 teaspoon of the oil. Add the almonds and cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until golden, about 5 minutes (E) . Transfer the almonds to a plate and let cool completely. In a food processor, pulse the almonds until finely ground.

5. In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil until shimmering. Add the onion, garlic and ginger and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until tender and golden, about 8 minutes. Add the garam masala, chile powder and cayenne and cook, stirring, for 1 minute (F) . Add the tomatoes with their juices and the sugar and season with salt and black pepper. Cover partially and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is slightly thickened, about 20 minutes (G) . Add the cream and ground almonds and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10 minutes longer. Stir in the chicken; simmer gently for 10 minutes, stirring frequently, and serve (H, I) .

VARIATION The marinade and sauce here are also delicious with shrimp, lamb and vegetables.

Fun Fact

The most popular curry in the U.K. is chicken tikka masala. It accounts for one in every seven sold.

Bunker, which started as a tiny Vietnamese restaurant in an industrial stretch of New York City, has become a cult favorite for its chicken pho. Chef Jimmy Tu gently poaches the bird until it’s cooked just enough so the meat can be removed from the bones, then shreds the meat and simmers it in the finished soup so it’s tasty and tender. He builds flavor in stages, adding aromatics, then spices, and finally fresh garnishes for a burst of brightness right before serving.

Bean sprouts, basil sprigs, mint sprigs, thinly sliced jalapeños and lime wedges, for serving

1. Start the pho In a large stockpot, bring 5 quarts of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and the chicken, breast side down (A) . Place a heatproof plate over the chicken to keep it submerged and bring to a boil (B) . Reduce the heat and simmer the chicken for 30 minutes; it will not be cooked through. Transfer the chicken to a bowl of ice water and let cool completely (C) . Drain well and pat dry.

2. Meanwhile, in a large cast-iron skillet, combine the star anise, cardamom, coriander, cinnamon stick, black and white peppercorns and goji berries (D) . Cook over moderately low heat, stirring, until very fragrant, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.

3. In the same skillet, combine the shallots, onion and leek. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until deep golden, about 10 minutes (E) .

5. Simmer the broth
Return all of the chicken skin and bones to the broth in the stockpot (F) . Add the pan-roasted shallot, onion and leek mixture and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer over moderately low heat for 1 hour.

6. Stir the toasted spices and goji berries into the broth. Cover and simmer for 1 hour longer. Add the rock sugar and simmer for another 30 minutes.

7. Strain the broth into a large bowl, pressing on the solids (G) . Pour the broth into a clean saucepan; discard the solids.

8. Make the garnishes
In a large skillet, heat the oil. Add the shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes (H) . Using a mesh skimmer, transfer the shallots to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Let cool.

9. Soak the noodles in a large bowl of boiling water until pliable, 8 to 10 minutes.

10. Finish the pho
Bring the broth to a simmer. Stir in the shredded chicken and cook until just white throughout, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the fish sauce and season the broth with salt (I) .

11. Drain the rice noodles and transfer to large bowls. Ladle the broth and chicken over the noodles. Top with the scallions and cilantro. Garnish with the crispy shallots, bean sprouts, basil, mint and jalapeños and serve with lime wedges.

MAKE AHEAD The poached chicken and finished broth can be refrigerated separately overnight.

All About the Bird

Because pho is largely about the flavor of the broth, using a high-quality chicken here is key.

Rice Noodle Basics

Linguine-width rice noodles are sometimes sold as rice sticks. The dried kind need to be handled carefully but are otherwise easy to use: Just soak until pliable, then add to the broth. Tu prefers dried to fresh because fresh noodles can be made with preservatives.

Every good cook has a favorite, foolproof dish. For British food writer and BBC star Nigel Slater, it’s a fragrant and spicy green curry chicken that’s so flavorful, you’ll stop ordering takeout once you learn how to prepare it. The recipe makes extra curry paste, with a hit of fish sauce for a sweet-salty bite; use it to jazz up everything from simple soups to weeknight stews.

1. Make the curry paste
In a food processor, combine all of the ingredients and pulse to a paste (A) .

2. Make the curry
In a large, heavy casserole, heat the peanut oil. Add half of the chicken and cook over high heat until browned all over, about 6 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate. Repeat with the remaining chicken (B) . Add the mushrooms to the casserole and cook over moderately high heat until softened and just beginning to brown, about 4 minutes (C) . Add the coconut milk, stock, lime leaves, peppercorns, 1 tablespoon of the fish sauce, ½ cup of the cilantro, ¼ cup of the basil and a heaping ¼ cup of the curry paste (D) . Bring to a boil and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the casserole (E) . Add 1 tablespoon of the curry paste and simmer for 5 minutes (F) . (Reserve the remaining curry paste for another use.)

3. Just before serving, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of fish sauce, ½ cup of cilantro and ¼ cup of basil (G) . Serve the chicken curry in deep bowls, with rice and lime wedges (H) .

Chef Ludo Lefebvre of Petit Trois in L.A. may be a rule breaker, but he has an unexpected soft spot for retro French classics. Here, he modernizes duck à l’orange by cooking the breast and tender leg confit separately, then serving them in a North African–inspired sauce of fresh orange juice simmered with honey, orange blossom water and the spice blend ras el hanout.

1. Make the sauce
In a small saucepan, bring the honey to a boil over high heat. Add the juice, stock, vinegar, orange blossom water and ras el hanout. Return to a boil and cook over moderately high heat until reduced by half (to about 1 cup), 16 to 18 minutes. Off the heat, whisk in 2 tablespoons of the butter. Season with salt and pepper; keep warm.

2. Cook the duck
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°. Place the duck legs on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and roast until heated through and browned, 14 to 16 minutes. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm.

3. Using a paring knife, deeply score the skin of each duck breast every ½ inch in a crosshatch pattern; season with salt. In a large skillet, arrange the duck breasts skin side down. Place the skillet over moderately low heat and cook, without turning, until some of the fat has rendered and the skin is golden brown, 14 to 16 minutes. Turn the breasts and cook until medium-rare (130° internal temperature), 2 to 3 minutes longer. Transfer to a cutting board and let rest. Drain the fat from the skillet and save for another use; reserve the skillet.

4. Finish the dish
On a cutting board, trim the ends from each blood orange and then slice away all the peel and pith. Cut each orange crosswise into ¼-inch slices, then halve the slices.

5. Return the skillet to high heat and melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Add the amaranth leaves and swirl the skillet until they are wilted and fragrant, 20 seconds. Slice the duck breasts. Arrange the breasts and the amaranth on plates and drizzle with the sauce. Top with the duck legs and orange slices and garnish with mint leaves.

NOTE Ras el hanout is a North African spice mixture that usually includes ginger and anise. It’s available at some grocery stores (McCormick makes a version) and from kalustyans.com .

How to Air-Dry Duck

For supercrisp, golden skin, refrigerate the breasts uncovered on a rack overnight to remove moisture.

Chef Ethan Stowell of Tavolàta in Seattle sticks to Italian tradition when making the Milanese specialty osso buco. He braises veal shanks until meltingly tender and then tops them with a citrusy gremolata (orange and lemon zest mixed with garlic and parsley). Stowell insists that scooping out every bit of marrow from the bones is a must for “a mouthful of fatty goodness.”

1. Preheat the oven to 375°. Season the veal shanks with salt and pepper (A) . In a very large, deep skillet, heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil until shimmering. Working in batches, cook the veal over moderately high heat until browned on both sides, about 8 minutes total per batch. Transfer the osso buco to a large roasting pan (B) .

2. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of olive oil to the skillet. Add the carrots, celery, onions, 4 whole garlic cloves and the bay leaves and cook over moderate heat until softened, about 12 minutes (C) . Add the chicken stock, white wine, tomatoes and thyme sprigs and bring to a boil. Pour the vegetables and liquid over the veal (D) . Cover the roasting pan with foil, transfer to the oven and braise the shanks for about 2½ hours, until very tender (E) .

3. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the orange zest, lemon zest, parsley and the 2 minced garlic cloves. Lightly season the gremolata with salt and pepper (F) .

4. Transfer the veal shanks to a baking sheet and cover with foil. Carefully strain the cooking liquid into a large bowl (G) . Reserve the vegetables; discard the bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Pour the cooking liquid back into the roasting pan and boil over high heat until it is reduced by half, about 25 minutes. Season the sauce with salt and pepper. Stir in the reserved vegetables and simmer over moderately low heat for 2 minutes (H) . Transfer the osso buco to shallow bowls. Spoon the sauce and vegetables on top and sprinkle lightly with the gremolata (I) . Serve with the remaining gremolata at the table.

Perfect Party Dish

Osso buco is ideal for entertaining because the flavor only gets better after a day in the fridge.

Eating just the most popular cuts of lamb, such as the chops, is like visiting only the major tourist destinations in a city: You miss out on so much. Tony Maws, a master of whole-animal cooking at his restaurant Craigie on Main in Boston, shares his secrets for cooking overlooked parts. For the leg and ribs, that means roasting; for the neck, slow braising; and for leg steaks, quick searing.

1. In a small bowl, whisk the vadouvan, salt and sugar. Set the ribs on a rimmed baking sheet and rub the spice mixture all over them; refrigerate, covered, for 8 hours or overnight.

2. Preheat the oven to 300°. Roast the ribs for 2½ hours, until browned and tender; transfer to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut into 2-rib pieces and serve.

NOTE Vadouvan, a French curry spice blend flavored with shallots and garlic, is available at specialty food stores and laboiteny.com .

1. Preheat the oven to 275°. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In a large, oiled roasting pan, sear the lamb over moderately high heat until browned. Add the chicken stock, white wine and herb sprigs, transfer to the oven and cook for 2 hours, basting every hour.

2. Cover the pan with foil and cook for 5 hours longer, until the meat is tender and pulling away from the bone.

Rib Tip

Lamb ribs can be fatty, so it’s best to get them from small farms where the animals tend to be younger and leaner.

1 bay leaf and 1 sprig each of parsley, cilantro and rosemary, tied in cheesecloth

1. Preheat the oven to 300°. Season the lamb with salt and pepper. In a casserole, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the lamb and cook over moderately high heat, turning, until browned, about 10 minutes; transfer to a plate.

2. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the casserole. Add the celery, carrot, onion, turnip, tomato paste and anchovy and cook, stirring, until the vegetables just start to soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in the wine, scraping up any browned bits, and simmer for 3 minutes. Add the stock, raisins and herb bundle and bring to a boil.

3. Return the lamb to the casserole, cover and braise in the oven for 2 hours, until the meat is very tender. Discard the herb bundle and season the lamb with salt and pepper. Serve.

1. Rub the lamb with the cumin and fennel; season with salt and pepper. In a cast-iron skillet, heat the oil until smoking. Add the lamb and cook over high heat, turning once, until browned, 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to moderate. Add the thyme, garlic and 4 tablespoons of the butter and cook for 5 minutes, basting the lamb with the butter. Turn the steaks and cook, basting, until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part registers 130°, about 5 minutes; transfer to a carving board and let rest for 10 minutes. Thickly slice against the grain.

2. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat from the skillet. Add the shallot and cook over moderately high heat until softened, 1 minute. Add the wine and simmer until syrupy, 4 minutes. Add the stock and simmer until slightly reduced, 3 minutes. Off the heat, whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter; season with salt and pepper. Serve with the lamb and french fries.

Braising Beauty

Lamb necks are fantastic when braised. The meat gets succulent and tender as it cooks in the braising liquid, while the bones, in turn, enrich and flavor the broth.

Made the old-fashioned way, sauerkraut is a healthy superfood. Fermentation pro Alex Hozven of Cultured Pickle Shop in Berkeley, California, shows how to make three kinds of this probiotic-rich pickled food at home. Aside from the great taste, another benefit of DIY sauerkraut is that it’s guaranteed to be live, which isn’t true of all store-bought versions.

4 lbs. green cabbage, very thinly sliced on a mandoline or finely shredded in a food processor

1. Combine all of the ingredients in a very large bowl. Squeeze the cabbage to release some liquid. Press a heavy plate on the cabbage to weigh it down and let stand at room temperature, tossing and squeezing the cabbage 4 or 5 more times, until it has released enough liquid to cover, about 4 hours.

2. Pour the cabbage and its liquid into a clean ceramic crock or tall glass container. Top the cabbage with a clean plate that just fits inside the crock. Place a glass or ceramic bowl on the plate and put a heavy can in the bowl; the cabbage should be completely submerged in its brine by at least ½ inch. Cover the crock with a clean kitchen towel and set it in a cool, dark place to ferment for about 6 weeks.

3. Every 3 days, clean and replace the plate that sits on the cabbage, carefully skimming any foam or mold that forms on the surface of the liquid. Discard the cabbage and its liquid if it’s foul-smelling, or if anything brown, moldy or slimy has penetrated below what can easily be scraped off the surface. If too much liquid evaporates before the sauerkraut is sufficiently fermented, dissolve ½ teaspoon of sea salt in 1 cup of spring water and add it to the crock. When the sauerkraut is ready, it should have a light crunch and a bright, pleasantly tangy taste, with an acidity similar to that of a lemon.

MAKE AHEAD The sauerkraut can be refrigerated in its brine in a glass or ceramic jar for up to 6 months. Drain before serving.

The Pickle's Progress

“Try the kraut at different stages to see its evolution from one week to the next,” says Hozven. “The longer it ferments, the more acidic—and shelf-stable—it gets.”

4 lbs. green cabbage, very thinly sliced on a mandoline or finely shredded in a food processor

Balancing Act

For the sauerkraut above, Hozven worked with an herbalist to create an ayurvedic spice blend designed to improve digestion and balance within the body.

4 lbs. green cabbage, very thinly sliced on a mandoline or finely shredded in a food processor

One 4-inch piece of fresh burdock root, peeled and thinly sliced crosswise on a mandoline

Ingredient Intel

Popular in China, Japan and Korea, burdock is a root vegetable with an earthy, nutty flavor. It’s sold at many Asian markets, but if you can’t find it, substitute another root vegetable, like carrot.

Hijiki is a seaweed with a neutral flavor, sold in dry black strips, while arame is a dark brown sea vegetable that has long strands and a slightly sweet, mild flavor. “Hijiki and arame retain a good texture during fermentation,” explains Hozven of this kraut inspired by the Japanese macrobiotic diet. Both ingredients are available at Asian markets, health food stores and online from amazon.com .

Lionel Vatinet of La Farm Bakery in Cary, North Carolina, is a master French baker, but the bread he’s most proud of is a dense, aromatic rye—the kind that’s practically a religion in Scandinavia. Learn how to make the ultra-crusty, extra-flavorful loaf that won over his Norwegian father-in-law.

4 cups whole-grain rye flour, preferably stone-ground heirloom (carolinaground.com )

1. In a small saucepan, cover the rye berries with 2 cups of the water and bring to a boil. Simmer gently over moderately low heat until all of the water has been absorbed and the rye berries are al dente, about 40 minutes. Spread the rye berries on parchment paper and let cool completely.

2. Meanwhile, in another small saucepan, cover the millet with 1 cup of the water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to moderately low and simmer until all of the water has been absorbed and the millet is halfway to tender, 12 minutes. Spread the millet on parchment paper; let cool completely (A) .

3. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, mix the yeast with the remaining 2¼ cups of water; let stand until foamy, 10 minutes. Add both flours and the salt; mix at low speed for 5 minutes. Increase the speed to medium and mix for 2 minutes. Mix in the cooled rye berries and millet along with ¾ cup of the oats (B) . Scrape the dough into a greased large bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let stand in a warm spot until doubled, 2 hours.

4. Scatter the remaining ½ cup of oats on a work surface and scrape the dough onto them. Roll the dough until coated with the oats, then pat into a large brick shape (C) . Transfer the dough to a greased 9-by-5-inch loaf pan and cover with a damp kitchen towel. Let stand in a warm spot until slightly risen, about 1½ hours.

5. Preheat the oven to 450°. Bake the bread until lightly browned on top and an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 200°, 1 hour. Transfer to a rack; let cool for 30 minutes. Unmold and let cool completely.

Light, hollow popovers are America’s answer to the U.K.’s Yorkshire pudding. Crusty and nicely browned, with an impressive mushroom-shaped pouf, a really good one is guaranteed to make guests swoon. Cookbook author Grace Parisi shares tips on how to perfect the brunch specialty in this citrusy rendition baked in a simple muffin pan.

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the sugar and orange zest. Whisk in the milk and 3 tablespoons of the melted butter (A) . In another bowl, whisk the flour with the baking powder and salt (B) . Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients until only small lumps remain (C) .

2. Brush the cups of a 12-cup muffin tin (preferably not nonstick) with the remaining 1 tablespoon of melted butter (D) . Heat the muffin tin in the oven for 5 minutes; the butter will turn a nutty brown. Carefully fill the muffin cups halfway with the popover batter (E) . Bake the popovers for about 30 minutes, until they are risen and browned. Turn the popovers out onto a platter and serve them right away (F) .

Building a High Rise

Popovers don’t always rise as they should. For foolproof ones, add a bit of baking powder to the batter and use a regular (not nonstick) muffin tin.

An exquisitely puffy soufflé can seem like a small miracle. Master chef Jacques Pépin is a pro at making both sweet and savory versions. The most important thing, he says, is the timing. For instance, you must use the beaten egg whites right away or they’ll deflate. Read on for more advice on how to re-create these stunners in your own kitchen.

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Grease a 1-quart gratin dish (see Note) with butter and dust with the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese; refrigerate. In a saucepan, melt the 3 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, whisking, for 1 minute (A) . Whisk in the milk, bring to a boil and cook, whisking, until thickened, 1 minute. Remove the béchamel from the heat, then whisk in 4 egg yolks along with the salt and pepper (B) . Reserve the remaining yolk for another use.

2. In a clean bowl, beat the whites until firm peaks form (C) . Whisk one-third of the whites into the béchamel, then fold in the remaining beaten whites. Fold in the Gruyère and chives; scrape into the prepared dish. Arrange the American cheese strips on top in a crisscross pattern. Bake for 25 minutes, until puffed and golden. Serve.

Note To get the most crust with the cheesiest flavor, Pépin uses a wide, shallow gratin dish, then creates a lattice on top with thin slices of American cheese. A soufflé ramekin would work too.

1. In a bowl, soak the fruits in the kirsch for 30 minutes or overnight. Preheat the oven to 400°. Grease a 1-quart soufflé dish with butter and dust with 2 tablespoons of the granulated sugar; refrigerate.

2. In a saucepan, melt the 3 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. Whisk in the flour to form a paste and cook, whisking, for 1 minute. Whisk in the milk, bring to a boil and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened, 1 minute. Remove the béchamel from the heat, then whisk in the vanilla and remaining ⅓ cup of granulated sugar. Whisk in 4 egg yolks; reserve the remaining yolk for another use.

3. In a clean bowl, beat the whites until firm peaks form; whisk one-third into the béchamel, then fold in the remaining whites. Fold in the fruit and kirsch; scrape into the prepared soufflé dish. Bake for 25 minutes, until puffed and lightly golden. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve.

Size Doesn't Matter

Egg whites can yield different volumes when beaten. “Sometimes there’s extra that won’t fit in the dish—that’s OK,” says Pépin.

Runny or Not?

“Some people like a soufflé that’s wet in the center, others do not,” says Pépin. “Both are perfectly fine.”

Yogurt is one of the healthiest things a home cook can make. Plus, it’s simple—no chemistry PhD needed. It’s all about adding live, active bacteria to milk. Ron Marks, founder of AtlantaFresh Artisan Creamery, shares two methods: using a bit of store-bought yogurt as a starter or, for the best result, powdered yogurt culture. Read on for the recipe and Marks’s favorite yogurt add-ins.

2 cups nonfat or 2 percent Greek-style plain yogurt with active cultures, at room temperature, or ¼ tsp. powdered yogurt culture (see Note)

1. In a large saucepan, bring 1½ inches of water to a boil. Set a large stainless steel bowl over the saucepan and add the milk; do not let the bowl touch the water. Turn the heat to low and gradually heat the milk, whisking, until it registers 180° on a candy thermometer. Keep the milk at 180° for 30 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary.

2. Remove the bowl from the saucepan and let the milk cool down to 106°, stirring often. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 110°.

If using yogurt, whisk it with 2 cups of the warm milk in a bowl until smooth, then add it back to the warm milk.

3. Whisk the cultured warm milk for 3 minutes. Fill several clean jars to 1 inch below the rim with the cultured milk. Cap the jars and place in the warmed oven (or a yogurt maker or other gently heated spot); the cultured milk should stay between 105° and 110° during the entire process. Begin checking the yogurt after 4½ hours; it’s ready when it is thick, tangy and surrounded by a small amount of clear whey. If using a pH meter (see Handy Tool ), the yogurt is ready when it registers 4.5. Depending on how active the cultures are, it can take up to 18 hours for the yogurt to set and develop its characteristic tang. Refrigerate until thoroughly chilled or overnight.

4. Line a large mesh colander or strainer with a moistened cotton cloth or several layers of cheesecloth and set it over a large bowl. Scoop the yogurt into the colander. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for about 6 hours, or until it reaches the desired thickness.

In a saucepan, combine 2 cups sliced peeled peaches, ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar, ¼ cup orange juice, 6 Tbsp. dark brown sugar and a pinch of salt; simmer for 5 minutes, stirring. Add 2 Tbsp. finely grated ginger and ⅛ tsp. cinnamon; simmer for 2 minutes. Add ½ tsp. cornstarch dissolved in ½ tsp. water and simmer until slightly thickened. Using an immersion blender, gently pulse until a chunky sauce forms. Serve chilled.

In a medium saucepan, combine 6 oz. raspberries, ¼ cup orange juice, 2 oz. blueberries, ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. sugar and a pinch of salt; simmer over moderate heat for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in ½ tsp. cornstarch dissolved in ½ tsp. water and simmer until the liquid is slightly thickened, 30 seconds. Using an immersion blender, gently blend until a thick sauce forms. Serve chilled.

In a bowl, stir together 1 cup Greek-Style Yogurt; ½ large cucumber that has been peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded and cut into ½-inch dice; 2 Tbsp. chopped dill; 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice; and ½ minced garlic clove. Season the tzatziki with salt and pepper.

Bring Out The Best

“High-quality milk that isn’t ultra-pasteurized will produce a better, more complex-tasting yogurt,” Marks says.

Handy Tool

“A pH meter can be your best friend,” says Marks. Use it to gauge the acid development in your yogurt. He suggests one from Hanna Instruments; $37 at amazon.com .

At Seattle’s Dahlia Bakery, Tom Douglas offers an ingenious mix-and-match menu of cakes (such as chocolate or brown-butter), fillings (like dark, milk or white chocolate mousse) and frostings (including rich chocolate, hazelnut and white chocolate buttercream). Go ahead and pick your favorite combo. We’ve tried them all, and you can’t go wrong.

1. Make the cake
Preheat the oven to 325°. Butter two 9-inch cake pans and line the bottoms of the pans with parchment paper. Butter the paper and dust the pans with flour, tapping out the excess.

2. In a medium saucepan, melt the 3 sticks of butter. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until foamy, about 5 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the milk solids turn brown and the butter smells nutty, about 4 minutes longer. Scrape the melted butter and browned bits into a large heatproof bowl. Set the bowl in an ice water bath until the butter begins to set around the edge, about 8 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the 2¼ cups of flour with the baking powder and salt.

4. Remove the bowl from the ice water and scrape up the hardened butter. Transfer the butter to a stand mixer fitted with the paddle and beat until creamy. Add the sugar and vanilla seeds and beat at medium-high speed until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the egg yolks followed by the whole eggs. Beat in the dry ingredients and milk in 3 alternating additions, scraping down the side and bottom of the bowl as necessary.

5. Pour the cake batter into the prepared pans and bake in the center of the oven for about 40 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through baking, until the cakes are golden and a toothpick inserted in the centers comes out clean. Cool the cakes in the pans for 20 minutes, then invert them onto a rack to let them cool completely. Peel off the parchment paper.

6. Layer the cake
Set one cake layer on a platter. Spread the mousse filling on top and cover with the second cake layer. Frost the cake all over with a thin layer of buttercream and refrigerate until set, about 5 minutes. Frost the cake with the remaining buttercream. Refrigerate the cake until the frosting is firm, at least 15 minutes, before serving.

1. Make the cake
Preheat the oven to 350°. In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons each of flour and cocoa powder. Butter two 9-inch round cake pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper. Butter the paper and dust the pans with the cocoa-flour mixture, tapping out the excess.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk the 2 cups of flour and ¼ cup of cocoa powder with ½ cup of the granulated sugar, the baking powder, baking soda and salt.

3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the eggs with the brown sugar and the remaining ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon of granulated sugar at medium-high speed until thickened, about 5 minutes. At medium speed, gradually add ½ cup of the oil and beat for 3 minutes. Beat in the melted chocolate, then add the remaining oil in a thin stream until thoroughly blended, scraping the side and bottom of the bowl. At low speed, beat in the buttermilk and vanilla. Remove the bowl from the mixer and gently mix in the dry ingredients by hand.

4. Pour the cake batter into the prepared pans and bake in the center of the oven for about 25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the centers of the cakes comes out with a few moist crumbs attached. Cool the cakes in the pans for 20 minutes, then invert them onto a rack to cool completely. Peel off the parchment paper.

5. Layer the cake
Set one cake layer on a platter. Spread the mousse filling on top and cover with the second cake layer. Frost the cake all over with a thin layer of buttercream and refrigerate until set, about 5 minutes. Frost the cake with the remaining buttercream. Refrigerate the cake until the frosting is firm, at least 15 minutes, before serving.

On the Edge

“I love the crusty caramelized edge on a cake that’s just out of a hot oven,” says Douglas. “A lot of bakeries trim that edge, but I keep it.”

Time 30 min plus 4 hr chilling
Makes 1½ cups, enough for one 9-inch 2-layer cake

1. In a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over ½ tablespoon of water and let stand until softened.

2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, using a hand mixer, beat the cream until softly whipped. Refrigerate until chilled, about 10 minutes.

3. In a small, microwave-safe bowl, heat the coffee liqueur at high power until hot, about 45 seconds. Stir in the softened gelatin until dissolved.

4. In another medium bowl, beat the egg yolks with the sugar and salt at high speed until pale and thickened, about 5 minutes. While beating the yolks, beat in the coffee-gelatin liquid; scrape the side and bottom of the bowl. Beat in the melted chocolate. Using a rubber spatula, fold in the whipped cream in 2 additions. Scrape the mousse into a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 4 hours or overnight.

MILK CHOCOLATE VARIATION Substitute milk chocolate for the bittersweet chocolate.

WHITE CHOCOLATE VARIATION Substitute white chocolate for the bittersweet chocolate, and substitute orange liqueur for the coffee liqueur.

2 sticks plus 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter (9 oz.), cut into tablespoons, at room temperature

1. In a blender or food processor, pulse the sugar until powdery. Transfer the sugar to a medium heatproof bowl and whisk in the egg whites and salt. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and whisk gently until the sugar is completely dissolved, 5 minutes.

2. Transfer the warm egg-white mixture to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk. Add the vanilla and beat at medium-high speed until stiff and glossy, about 8 minutes. Beat in the butter a few pieces at a time, making sure it is fully incorporated before adding more. The buttercream should be light and fluffy; if it appears runny at any time, transfer the bowl to the freezer for 5 to 10 minutes, then return it to the mixer and continue.

3. Beat in the melted chocolate until fully incorporated, scraping down the side and bottom of the bowl. Remove the bowl from the mixer and beat with a wooden spoon to remove any air bubbles.

Hazelnut Variation
Substitute 2 Tbsp. hazelnut-praline paste (available from kingarthurflour.com ) for the extra-bittersweet chocolate.

White Chocolate Variation
Substitute 4 oz. white chocolate for the extra-bittersweet chocolate.

A Lavish Spread

Filling
“Using a filling different from the frosting means less buttercream in the cake,” Douglas says. “Otherwise, there’s just too much of it.”

Frosting
These classic buttercream frostings are rich and luxurious. Douglas sometimes folds in whipped cream for a lighter touch.

Master baker Alice Medrich is legendary for her precise, can’t-go-wrong recipes. Here, she dispenses her pie wisdom. For instance: “All the ingredients need to be cold, so the butter remains in pieces,” says Medrich. “That’s what creates the flakes in the crust.” Read on to learn how to make her double-crust fruit pie and single-crust pecan pie, plus two ways to crimp.

1 stick cold unsalted butter— 5 Tbsp. cut into ¼-inch dice, the rest left whole

1. Measure the flour into a glass or ceramic bowl and freeze for 15 minutes. Freeze the 3-tablespoon-size chunk of butter for 15 minutes. Put the 5 tablespoons of diced butter on a plate and refrigerate for 15 minutes (A) . In a glass measuring cup, combine the yogurt and salt with 1 tablespoon of cold water and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

2. Using a pastry blender or two butter knives, cut the diced butter into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Rub the mixture between your hands until all of the fat is evenly distributed and the mixture resembles fine oat flakes (B) . Using a sharp knife or a cheese plane, very thinly slice the remaining butter and freeze the slices for 5 minutes.

3. Add the butter slices to the bowl. Toss gently to separate the slices and cut once or twice to combine them with the flour; the slices should remain cold and intact (C) . Drizzle the cold yogurt into the bowl, using a rubber spatula to stir and toss as you drizzle (D) . Continue tossing the dough, scraping any off the spatula and the side of the bowl, until it is crumbly and evenly moistened (E) . Press the dough into a 6-inch disk and wrap in plastic (F) . Refrigerate the dough for at least 2 hours or freeze for 1 month. (For steps G through I )

Perfectly Flaky Yogurt-Butter Pie Dough (double the recipe and divide the dough into two disks, one slightly larger than the other)

5 large apples (2½ lbs.), such as Granny Smith—peeled, cored, quartered and thickly sliced

1. On a floured work surface, roll out the larger disk of dough to a 13-inch round. Fold the round in quarters and transfer to a 9-inch glass pie dish; unfold the pastry and gently press it into the pie plate. Lightly brush the bottom of the dough with some of the egg white. Roll out the smaller disk of pie dough to a 12-inch round. Fold the round in quarters, transfer it to a wax paper–lined baking sheet and unfold. Freeze the pie shell and the 12-inch round of dough for 15 minutes.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°. In a bowl, toss the apples with the ½ cup of sugar and the apricots, zest, cinnamon and 1 tablespoon of flour. Scrape the apples into the pie shell and dot with the butter. Brush the edge with some of the egg white and top with the second round of dough. Press the edges together and, using scissors, trim the overhang to ½ inch. Fold the edge under itself and crimp decoratively. Brush the pie with the milk and sprinkle with sugar. Cut slashes in the top of the pie to vent steam.

3. Bake the pie in the lower third of the oven for 1 hour, until the crust is deep golden and the filling is bubbling through the vents; tent with foil during the last 20 minutes of baking. Let cool completely before serving.

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the pecans in a pie plate and toast for about 8 minutes, until fragrant. Let cool.

2. Increase the oven temperature to 400°. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough to a 13-inch round; patch any cracks (G) . Fold the round in quarters and transfer to a 9-inch glass pie dish; unfold the pastry and gently press it into the pie plate (H) . Using scissors, trim the overhanging dough to ½ inch (I) . Tuck the edge of the dough under itself and crimp decoratively. Line the dough with foil, shiny side down, and prick all over with a fork, piercing the foil and pie dough. Freeze for 15 minutes.

3. Fill the pie with pie weights or dried beans and bake in the lower third of the oven for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and weights. Return the crust to the oven and bake until lightly browned, about 12 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, in a heatproof bowl, combine the brown sugar, corn syrup, butter and salt. Set the bowl over a saucepan filled with 1 inch of simmering water and whisk in the eggs 1 at a time. Cook, whisking gently, until the filling is warm to the touch. Remove from the heat and whisk in the rum.

5. Arrange the pecans in the pie shell and scatter the candied ginger on top. Pour the filling over the pecans. Bake for about 25 minutes, until the filling is jiggly but not cracked; cover the edge of the crust with strips of foil halfway through baking to prevent over-browning. Let the pie cool on a wire rack. Cut into wedges and serve.

Two Ways to Crimp

The thumb crimp
To create an angled, wave-like edge, work on the bias, pinching the pie dough between your thumb and bent forefinger at even intervals.

Traditional fluting
To create an even, triangular crimp, form a V with your thumb and forefinger, pressing the edge of the dough into the V with your other forefinger.

At Oleana and Sofra in Cambridge, Massachusetts, chef Ana Sortun serves an outrageously good baklava with chocolate and hazelnuts layered between crisp sheets of honey-soaked phyllo. Here’s a step-by-step guide to re-creating this decadent dessert at home.

1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Spread the nuts on a baking sheet and bake for 12 minutes, until the skins are blistered; let cool. Leave the oven on. Transfer the nuts to a kitchen towel and rub off the skins, then transfer to a food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped (A) .

2. Add the chocolate, ⅔ cup of the sugar and the cinnamon to the food processor and pulse until the chocolate and nuts are finely chopped and the same size. Transfer to a bowl (B) .

3. Unwrap the phyllo and cover with a sheet of plastic wrap. Generously butter a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan. Butter and stack 8 sheets of phyllo (C) . Trim the edges. Ease the stack into the pan. Sprinkle about 2 cups of the filling over the phyllo (D) . Butter and stack 2 more phyllo sheets; fold them in half crosswise and place over the filling (E) . Sprinkle on another 2 cups of the filling (F) . Top with 2 more buttered, folded sheets and 2 cups of filling. Butter and stack 3 more phyllo sheets, fold them in half and place over the filling. Fold in the overhanging phyllo on top and brush generously with butter. Using a ruler and a sharp knife, cut the baklava (through the top and bottom) into 3-inch squares (there will be a bit left on one long side). Cut each square in half to make triangles (G) .

4. Bake the baklava for 25 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 300° and bake for 50 minutes longer, until golden.

5. In a saucepan, bring the honey, 2 cups of water and the remaining 2 cups of sugar to a boil. Simmer over moderate heat for 10 minutes. Immediately ladle the hot syrup over the hot baklava (H) . Let stand until completely cool, at least 4 hours and preferably overnight, then serve (I) .

A Simpler Syrup

At Sofra, pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick adds cinnamon and cocoa nibs to the syrup that soaks the baklava. Our Test Kitchen notes that the pastry is fabulous even with a basic honey syrup.

Chances are, your favorite French treats—éclairs, profiteroles, cream puffs and cheesy gougères—are made with a pâte à choux base. Master baker Eric Kayser of Maison Kayser bakeries worldwide offers a tutorial to perfecting the eggy dough, plus three delicious applications.

1. Preheat the oven to 400°. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper. In a large saucepan, combine 1½ cups of water with the butter, sugar and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to moderate. Add the flour all at once and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until a tight dough forms and pulls away from the side of the pan, 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.

2. In a bowl, beat 7 eggs and add to the dough in four batches, stirring vigorously between additions until the eggs are completely incorporated and the pastry is smooth. The dough should be glossy and very slowly hang, stretch and fall from the spoon in thick ribbons. If necessary, beat in the remaining egg.

3. Transfer the dough to a piping bag fitted with a ½-inch plain tip. Pipe 1½-inch mounds onto the baking sheets, leaving 1 inch between them. Proceed as directed below.

Chouquettes
Sprinkle each mound with ½ tsp. pearl sugar (decorating sugar). Bake for 30 minutes, until browned and puffed.

Gougères
Sprinkle the mounds with 1 cup shredded Gruyère cheese. Bake for 30 minutes, until browned and puffed.

Cream Puffs With Chocolate Pastry Cream
Bake the mounds for 30 minutes, until browned and puffed. Let the puffs cool completely.

Meanwhile, in a bowl, whisk 6 egg yolks, 9 Tbsp. granulated sugar, 1½ Tbsp. all-purpose flour and 1½ tsp. cornstarch. In a saucepan, bring 2⅔ cups milk and 1⅓ cups heavy cream to a simmer; whisk ½ cup into the eggs, then whisk the mixture into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, whisking, until thick. Off the heat, whisk in 1¼ cups chopped dark chocolate until melted. Transfer to a bowl, cover the chocolate pastry cream with plastic and refrigerate until cool.

Using a serrated knife, halve the puffs horizontally. Fill each one with 2 Tbsp. of the chocolate pastry cream. Replace the tops and dust with confectioners’ sugar. (Alternatively, fill each choux with 2 Tbsp. sweetened whipped cream and 3 fresh raspberries.)

Don't Wait

“Eat your choux the same day, the sooner the better,” advises Kayser.

You could buy caramel sauce in a jar, but it’s incredibly easy to make at home—plus, it’ll be free of the additives and preservatives found in most store-bought versions. This dark, luscious sauce uses only a handful of ingredients but packs a major punch with vanilla bean and fleur de sel. Cookbook author Grace Parisi shares her deeply indulgent recipe.

1. Put the sugar in a large saucepan and pour ½ cup of water all around (A) . Add the vanilla bean and seeds and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved (B) . Using a wet pastry brush, wash down any crystals from the side of the pan (C) . Cook without stirring until a deep-amber caramel forms, about 5 minutes (D) . Gently swirl the pan to color the caramel evenly.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and add the cream (E) . When the bubbling subsides, bring the sauce to a boil and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the hardened caramel is dissolved (F) . Discard the vanilla bean; stir in the fleur de sel (G) . Let the caramel sauce cool before serving (H) .

Pour It On

This silky, dark sauce would be delicious on ice cream, cheesecake or pound cake with fresh strawberries.

Molly Neitzel loves the pure taste of the American-style ice cream she sells at her Molly Moon’s shops in Seattle. But she and pastry chef Christina Spittler also enjoy the lush texture of the French-style confection, too. (Egg yolks help prevent ice crystals.) “Nuts, butterscotch and caramel go great with that custardy flavor profile,” says Spittler. Read on for their best recipes.

1. Set a medium bowl in a large bowl of ice water. In another medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks with ½ cup of the sugar until pale, about 3 minutes.

2. In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, milk, salt and remaining ¼ cup of sugar and bring to a simmer, whisking until the sugar is completely dissolved. Whisk the hot cream mixture into the beaten egg yolks in a thin stream.

3. Transfer the mixture to the saucepan and cook over moderately low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the custard is thick enough to lightly coat the back of the spoon, about 4 minutes; don’t let it boil. Pour the custard through a fine-mesh strainer into the bowl in the ice water. Let cool completely, stirring frequently. Refrigerate the custard until very cold, at least 1 hour.

4. Pour the custard into an ice cream maker with flavorings, if using (see Variations), and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer the frozen custard to a plastic container, cover and freeze until firm, at least 3 hours.

CHOCOLATE-TOFFEE VARIATION Add 1 cup broken chocolate-and-toffee-covered saltines or pretzels in Step 4.

1. Set a medium bowl in a large bowl of ice water. In a small saucepan, combine the cream, milk, sugar and salt and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar completely. Pour the ice cream base into the medium bowl and let cool completely, stirring occasionally. Refrigerate until very cold, at least 1 hour or overnight.

2. Pour the base into an ice cream maker with flavorings, if using (see Variations), and freeze according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to a plastic container, cover and freeze until firm, at least 3 hours.

BLACKBERRY-SAGE VARIATION Add ¾ cup blackberry preserves mixed with 1 Tbsp. minced fresh sage in Step 2.

STRAWBERRY-JALAPEÑO VARIATION Add 1 cup strawberries macerated in 3 Tbsp. sugar with 1 tsp. minced jalapeño in Step 2.

“Candy is magic,” says Jami Curl, the mastermind behind Quin, the cult sweets shop in Portland, Oregon. “I remember holding the first lollipop I made up to the light and thinking, I’m a wizard!” But more than magic, making candy is all about precision: Follow Curl’s recipes for marshmallows, lollipops and caramels for sweet success.

1. Lightly grease a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan with canola oil. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the corn syrup with the peppermint extract and vanilla seeds at low speed until combined. Reserve the vanilla bean pod for another use.

2. In a heatproof medium bowl, cover the gelatin sheets with the ice water and let stand, stirring occasionally, until the gelatin is evenly moistened and all of the water is absorbed, about 5 minutes. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 inches of water to a simmer. Set the bowl with the gelatin over the simmering water and cook, stirring once or twice, until melted, about 5 minutes. Do not let the bowl touch the water. Carefully remove the saucepan from the heat.

3. In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the granulated sugar and water to a boil. Cook, without stirring, until the sugar syrup registers 225° on a candy thermometer, 8 to 10 minutes. Use a wet pastry brush to wash down the side of the pan.

4. With the stand mixer at low speed, slowly stream the hot sugar syrup into the corn syrup. Add the warm gelatin and continue beating until slightly thickened and opaque, about 2 minutes. Increase the speed to moderately high and beat until the marshmallow is thick and glossy and registers 105°, about 12 minutes.

5. Lightly grease a rubber spatula. Scatter the food coloring over the marshmallow, then, using the spatula, quickly scrape the marshmallow into the prepared pan, swirling the food coloring as you go. Let stand at room temperature until set, at least 3 hours or overnight.

6. Sift the confectioners’ sugar and cornstarch into a shallow bowl. Invert the marshmallow onto a work surface and cut into 2-inch squares. Toss in the sugar mixture, shaking off any excess, then serve.

NOTE Silver leaf gelatin is available at most baking supply shops and from amazon.com .

MAKE AHEAD The vanilla-mint marshmallows can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.

Weigh Out

Perfect candy is about being exact: Use a scale to weigh ingredients in grams.

7 g. (1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp.) finely grated lemon, lime, tangerine or grapefruit zest

1. Lightly grease thirty 1½-inch plastic or silicone lollipop molds with canola oil. Place a lollipop stick in each indentation, with ¾ inch of the stick inside the round mold. Alternatively, line a large baking sheet with a silicone baking mat.

2. In a small saucepan, bring the corn syrup, sugar and water to a boil. Do not stir (A) . Continue to cook, without stirring, until the syrup reaches 300° on a candy thermometer, 7 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the citrus zest, citric acid and food coloring. Spoon some of the syrup onto a white plate to check the color (B) . Add more food coloring if needed.

3. Working quickly, spoon 1 teaspoon of the syrup into each mold (C) . Alternatively, spoon teaspoonfuls of the syrup onto the prepared baking sheet, 2 inches apart, and place a stick in each lollipop, turning it to cover with syrup. Let the lollipops harden at room temperature for 30 minutes. Wrap in cellophane and secure with a twist tie.

300 g. (2 sticks plus 5 Tbsp.) room-temperature unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces, plus more for greasing

1. Lightly butter a 9-by-13-inch metal baking pan and line with parchment paper, leaving a 1-inch overhang on all 4 sides.

2. In a small saucepan, bring the cream to a boil; remove from the heat. Add the tea bags, cover and let stand for 12 minutes. Gently squeeze the tea bags to release any cream, then discard. Stir in the vanilla and salt; keep warm.

3. In a medium, heavy-bottomed saucepan, cook the corn syrup over moderately high heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until it begins to bubble, 2 minutes. Sprinkle one-third of the sugar over the corn syrup and, using a small heatproof spatula, poke the sugar into the hot syrup until incorporated. Do not stir. Repeat with the remaining sugar in 2 batches, using a wet pastry brush to wash down any crystals on the side of the pan. Continue cooking over moderately high heat, swirling the pan occasionally, until a dark amber caramel forms and the temperature reaches 330° on a candy thermometer, about 15 minutes.

4. Remove the saucepan from the heat and gradually add the warm cream, whisking constantly, until incorporated (A) . Add the 300 grams of butter in 2 batches, whisking until melted before adding more. Continue whisking the caramel vigorously until it is glossy and registers 190° on a candy thermometer, about 5 minutes (B) . Fold in the pepitas.

5. Scrape the caramel into the prepared baking pan, then gently tap it on a work surface to release any air bubbles. Let stand at room temperature for at least 3 hours, cover loosely with foil and let stand overnight.

6. Invert the caramel onto a work surface, peel off the parchment paper and cut into 1-inch squares (C) . Wrap each caramel in a square of cellophane and twist the ends to seal.

MAKE AHEAD The wrapped caramels can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 6 months.

Aging cocktails in wooden barrels rounds out harsh edges and adds layers of flavor. You can offer up a mini barrel with a spigot in place of the usual punch bowl at parties, pour aged cocktails into glass bottles as gifts or give a whole barrel to a drinks-obsessed friend. Star mixologist Jeffrey Morgenthaler of Clyde Common and Pépé Le Moko in Portland, Oregon, shows how to get started.

1. Age the cocktail
If the barrel is new and dry inside, fill it with water and let stand until watertight, about 24 hours. Drain.

2. Using a funnel, fill the barrel with the whiskey, vermouth and bitters. Let age, tasting a sample once a week, until the cocktail has taken on a rounded but not overly oaky flavor, about 1 month.