6Drinking & Nightlife

Chepe’s artsiest and most sophisticated drinking venues are concentrated north and east of the center, in Barrio Amón and Barrio Escalante. For a rowdier, younger scene, head to Barrio la Californiaor Calle la Amargura.

Best for cityscapes and cocktails are the rooftop bar at Hotel Presidente and the upstairs terrace at El Patio del Balmoral. People-watching rocks at Café de los Deseos in Barrio Otoya and at Mercado La California.

6Central San José

On weekends, these streets of La California in central San José are packed with 20-something revelers puffing cigarettes and pondering where to head for the next chili guaro (an increasingly popular shot with sugar-cane liquor, hot sauce and lime juice). Meanwhile, young professionals hit up the fancier cocktail bars.

oStiefelPUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8850-2119; www.facebook.com/StiefelPub; Av 5; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat)

Two dozen-plus Costa Rican microbrews on tap and an appealing setting in a historic building create a convivial buzz at this pub half a block from Plaza España. Grab a pint of Pelona or Maldita Vida, Malinche or Chichemel; better yet, order a flight of four miniature sampler glasses and try ’em all!

Azotea Calle 7COCKTAIL BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2010-0000; www.facebook.com/pg/azoteacalle7; Calle 7, Hotel Presidente; h4-10pm Sun-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat)

Featuring stylish indoor and verdant outdoor spaces, along with a sweeping view of the city, this rooftop cocktail bar fills nightly with Hotel Presidente guests and well-heeled professionals. Great craft cocktails, too.

Mercado La CaliforniaBEER GARDEN

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/MercadoLaCalifornia/; Calle 21; cocktails US$5-15, beer US$3; h6pm-3:30am Thu-Sat, 4pm-1:30am Sun)

Inspired by Madrid’s ‘Mercado San Miguel,’ El Mercadito (as the locals say) is a recent addition to the up-and-coming Barrio La California. The line regularly snakes down the block from the entrance to this nightlife plaza’s food kiosks, cocktail stands and craft-beer vendors, and the people in that line are often stunning to behold.

The plaza is lit up and lively, with seating areas for hanging out and feasting on gourmet tacos, pizza and BBQ-pork sandwiches.

BebederoCOCKTAIL BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-3815; www.facebook.com/bebederoCR; Calle 1; h6pm-2am Wed-Sat)

This glitzy, recently established cocktail den in the historic Steinvorth Building is brought to you by the mixologist/chef team from Maza Bistro, and they nail it every time. Beverages are artfully concocted with rare liquors, house-made bitters and even healing teas straight from the jungle. The tapas menu includes luscious local oysters and stuffed pejibaye (peach palm fruit). Reservations recommended.

AntikCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av 10; cover US$10; h11:30am-3pm & 6-11pm Tue-Thu, 11:30am-3pm & 6pm-6am Fri, 6pm-6am Sat)

Set in a historic mansion that once belonged to a Venezuelan general, Antik offers a tri-level experience, with a basement catering to the EDM crowd, a main level pizza restaurant and an upper floor featuring Latin dance rhythms and a sweet balcony with city views. There are a couple of bars offering craft beer and excellent, reasonably priced cocktails. The music often continues until dawn.

Craic Irish PubPUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Av 2 & Calle 25A; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat)

This popular pub in Barrio La California serves a wide variety of beers accompanied by burgers, fries and other bar snacks. It also has a foosball table.

ChubbsSPORTS BAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-4622; 2nd fl, Calle 9 btwn Avs 1 & 3; h11am-2am)

In the heart of the San José tourist belt, this little sports bar has reasonably priced drinks, tasty burgers and a stack of TVs displaying the game. It’s popular with expats and has unsurprisingly opened a second location on the old road between Santa Ana and Escazú.

La Concha de la LoraBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-0130; www.facebook.com/laconchalora; Calle 21 btwn Avs Central & 1; h9pm-4am Tue & Thu-Sun)

An enthusiastic young crowd packs in here nightly for foosball, good bar snacks, DJs spinning everything from Latin music to Jimi Hendrix, and occasional live bands and reggae nights. Low cover charges (free to US$6) help maintain the upbeat mood.

6La Sabana & Around

The city’s two most famous clubs throb in the western and northern stretches of the city, and a handful of bars surround each one.

oCastro’sCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-8789; cnr Av 13 & Calle 22; h1pm-4am)

Chepe’s oldest dance club, this classic Latin American disco in Barrio México draws crowds of locals and tourists to its large dance floor with a dependable mix of salsa, cumbia and merengue.

Club VertigoCLUB

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2257-8424; www.vertigocr.com; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 38 & 40; cover US$6-15; h10pm-dawn Fri & Sat)

Located on the ground floor of the nondescript Centro Colón office tower, the city’s premier club packs in Chepe’s beautiful people with a mix of house, trance and electronica. Downstairs is an 850-person-capacity sweatbox of a dance floor; upstairs is a chill-out lounge lined with red sofas. Dress to the nines and expect admission charges to skyrocket on guest-DJ nights.

6Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro

Calle La Amargura (Sorrow St) is the more poetic name for Calle 3, north of Av Central. However, it should be called Calle de la Cruda (Street of Hangovers) because it has the highest concentration of bars of any single street in town, and many of these are packed with customers (mainly university students) even during daylight hours. Places come and go, but Terra U (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2283-7728; www.facebook.com/TerraUSanPedro; Calle La Amargura; h10:30am-2:30am Mon-Sat, 3pm-2am Sun) is a longtime party spot. The area gets rowdy in the wee hours: watch out for drunks and pickpockets.

WilkBREWERY

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/wilkcraftbeer; cnr Calle 33 & Av 9; h4pm-1am Tue-Sat)

This Escalante pub attracts a mixed crowd of Ticos and Gringos who share an appreciation for craft brews and seriously delicious burgers (veggie included). The wide selection includes 27 craft beers on tap, including inventive concoctions of Costa Rica Craft Brewing and Treintaycinco. On each month’s first Thursday, a crowd gathers to watch a local brewmaster invent a new beer.

Roots Cool and CalmBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; The House of Reggae; MAP; %2253-1953; www.facebook.com/rootscoolandcalm; Av 8; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun)

The dreadlocked set crowds this cool Los Yoses bar, which brings in DJs from as far afield as Puerto Viejo on the Caribbean coast. It’s a sweet spot to get a beer and hang with reggae-loving locals.

Un Lugar Resto-barBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2225-3979; www.facebook.com/barunlugar; Calle 33 btwn Avs 11 & 13; h5:30pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 5pm-2am Fri & Sat)

This small wood-lined bar in Barrio Escalante serves as a neighborhood hangout that draws artsy types and young professionals for cold beer and bocas.

Río BarBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2225-8371; Av Central; h4pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri-Sat)

Just west of Calle 43 and the Fuente de la Hispanidad (the official boundary between Los Yoses and San Pedro), this large, popular bar has live bands some nights and flat-screen TVs showing the current game. It’s a good spot to watch the rush-hour traffic crawl by in the company of an after-work crowd.

6Escazú & Santa Ana

If you’re looking for a spicy cocktail and some house music, 8ctavo Rooftop is where the beautiful people partake. And just a short drive west you’ll find the country’s premier brewery, Costa Rica Craft Brewing, along with its popular tasting room. Escazú also has a few dive bars sprinkled around its main plaza, but few are particularly appealing.

oCosta Rica Craft BrewingBREWERY

(%2249-4277; www.facebook.com/craftbeercostarica; Calle Cajeta; h10am-10pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, noon-6pm Sun)

Just when everyone thought it would be Imperial versus Pilsen forever, this artisanal brew pub paved the way for craft beer in Costa Rica. The brewery’s newer location in Brasil, a suburb of San José, offers tours and tastings of its fine products, which include staple ales such as Libertas and Segua, along with more experimental barley wines and Russian Imperial stouts. It’s out of town; ask locally for directions.

Müllers BierhausBEER GARDEN

(%2228-0914; www.facebook.com/MBierhaus/; in front of the Cerro Alto residence, Guachipelín; h6-11pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu & Fri, 1pm-12:15am Sat, 1-7pm Sun)

This family-owned German restaurant and beer garden is popular with expats for its tasty curry sausages and vast selection of booze. More than 50 different brews are on offer, many of them German or otherwise international.

PubBAR

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2288-3062; www.facebook.com/thepubcr; Av 26 btwn Calles 128 & 130; h4pm-2am Mon-Sat)

This small, friendly pub has a list of about a dozen international beers, more than a dozen local brews and a selection of shots. Well-priced happy-hour drink specials keep things hopping, and a greasy bar menu is available to soak up the damage.

3Entertainment

Pick up La Nación on Thursday for listings (in Spanish) of the coming week’s attractions. The free publication GAM Cultural (www.gamcultural.com) and the website San José Volando (www.sanjosevolando.com) are also helpful guides to nightlife and cultural events.

Cinema

Many cinemas show recent Hollywood films with Spanish subtitles and an English soundtrack. Occasionally, films are dubbed over in Spanish (doblado or hablado en español) rather than subtitled; ask before buying a ticket. Movie tickets cost about US$4 to US$5, and generally Wednesday is cheaper. Check newspaper listings or individual theater websites for schedules.

There are bigger multiplexes in Los Yoses and San Pedro, while the most modern theaters are in Escazú.

Centro de CineCINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2242-5200; www.centrodecine.go.cr; cnr Calle 11 & Av 9)

This pink Victorian mansion houses the government-run film center and its vast archive of national and international flicks. Festivals, lectures and events are held here and in outside venues; check the website for current events.

Sala GarboCINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-1034; www.salagarbo.com; cnr Av 2 & Calle 28)

Art-house and classic film screenings.

Cine MagalyCINEMA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-7116; www.facebook.com/CineMagaly; Calle 23 btwn Avs Central & 1)

Screens the latest releases in a large, recently renovated theater, along with independent films in English. The attached Kubrick Gastro Bar (noon to 10pm Monday to Saturday, from 1pm Sunday) serves up delicious salads, pizza, desserts and an assortment of flavored teas. It’s the perfect spot for a sweet treat before or after the movie.

DRINK RESPONSIBLY

Be safe. Enterprising thieves sometimes lurk around popular nightspots, waiting to relieve drunken party people of their wallets. When leaving a bar late at night, keep your wits about you and take a taxi.

Live Music

The best spots to see live, local music in San José are El Lobo Estepario, Mundoloco El Chante and El Sótano. Internationally renowned DJs frequently appear at Club Vertigo and 8ctavo Rooftop.

oTeatro NacionalTHEATER

(MAP; %2010-1100; www.teatronacional.go.cr; Calles 3 & 5 btwn Avs Central & 2)

Costa Rica’s most important theater stages plays, dance, opera, classical concerts, Latin American music and other major events. The main season runs from March to November, but there are performances throughout the year.

oMundoloco El ChanteLIVE PERFORMANCE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2253-4125; www.facebook.com/MundolocoRestaurante/; Av Central, San Pedro; h4pm-2:30am Mon-Thu, from noon Fri & Sat)

Grab a craft beer and some vegetarian grub, such as stuffed mushrooms, at this super-cute San Pedro restaurant and bar. Then head to the spacious and comfortable backroom for the entertainment, which rotates from stand-up comedy to dance performances and live music of all kinds. Great acoustics here: it’s an ideal place to catch a local band.

El SótanoLIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-2302; www.facebook.com/sotanocr; cnr Calle 3 & Av 11; h3pm-2am Mon-Sat)

One of Chepe’s most atmospheric nightspots, Sótano is named for its cellar jazz club, where people crowd in for frequent performances including intimate jam sessions. Upstairs, a cluster of elegant high-ceilinged rooms in the same mansion have been converted into a gallery space, a stage, and a dance floor where an eclectic mix of groups play live gigs.

Jazz CaféLIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2253-8933; www.jazzcafecostarica.com; Av Central; cover US$6-13; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat)

This intimate San Pedro venue presents a different band every night. Countless performers have taken to the stage here, including legendary Cuban bandleader Chucho Valdés and Colombian pop star Juanes. Its sister club in Escazú (%2288-4740; Autopista Próspero Fernández, north side; cover US$5-10; h6pm-2am) features a similar mix of local and international bands.

El Lobo EsteparioLIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-3934; www.facebook.com/loboestepariocr; Av 2; h4pm-12:45am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) S

This artsy, two-story dive serves up good vegetarian fare and attracts some of the top local talent for live music gigs. The ceiling is also a blackboard, filled nightly with messages and drawings of the patrons’ choosing.

8ctavo RooftopLIVE MUSIC

(%4055-0588; www.facebook.com/8voRooftop; Autopista Próspero Fernández, Hotel Sheraton San José)

See and be seen at this swanky rooftop lounge, where international DJs regularly perform. If you want to show up early and dine first, this place is also a hit for the city views, the eclectic menu and the spicy cocktails. It’s right off Hwy 27 on the west side of Escazú.

Pepper Disco ClubLIVE MUSIC

(%2224-1472; Av 4, Zapote)

This club is the place to see heavy metal, punk and ska bands. Its salsa dancing nights are also good.

Arenas Skate ParkLIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8813-7544; Calle 11 btwn Avs 10 & 12)

On Friday and Saturday nights, punk shows are all the rage at this skate park in Barrio Soledad.

El Cuartel de la Boca del MonteLIVE MUSIC

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-0327; www.facebook.com/elcuartelcr; Av 1 btwn Calles 21 & 23; h11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri, 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 6pm-2am Fri & Sat)

This atmospheric old Barrio La California bar has long drawn cheek-by-jowl crowds for live bands. Friday is a good night to visit, as is Monday, when ladies get free admission and the band cranks out a crazy mix of calypso, salsa, reggae and rock. It’s popular with university students, who indulge in flirting, drinking and various combinations thereof.

Auditorio NacionalCONCERT VENUE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2105-0511 ext 511; www.museocr.org; Museo de los Niños, Calle 4)

A grand stage for concerts, dance, theater and plays, affiliated with the Centro Costarricense de Ciencia y Cultura.

BULLFIGHTING

Bullfighting is traditional and fights are held seasonally in the southern suburb of Zapote over the Christmas period. Members of the public, who are often drunk at such events, are encouraged to participate in the action. The bull isn’t killed in the Costa Rican version of the sport; however, many bulls are taunted, kicked and otherwise injured as a result of the fights, and animal welfare groups are keen to see the fights stopped.

Theater

There is a wide variety of theatrical options in San José, including some in English. Local newspapers list current shows. Most theaters are not very large, so performances tend to sell out; get tickets as early as possible.

Teatro Melico SalazarTHEATER

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2233-5172, 2257-6005; www.teatromelico.go.cr; Av 2 btwn Calles Central & 2)

A restored 1920s theater with regular fine-arts performances, including music, theater, ballet and other forms of dance.

Teatro Eugene O’NeillTHEATER

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2207-7554; www.centrocultural.cr; Calle 37)

This theater hosts performances sponsored by the Centro Cultural Costarricense Norteamericano, a cultural center that promotes ties between Costa Rica and the United States. It’s north of Avenida Central, in San Pedro.

Little Theatre GroupTHEATER

(%8858-1446; www.littletheatregroup.org)

This English-language performance troupe has been around since the 1950s and presents several plays a year; call or go online to find out when and where the works will be shown.

Sport

Estadio Nacional de Costa RicaSTADIUM

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Parque Metropolitano La Sabana)

Costa Rica’s graceful, modernist 35,000-seat national soccer stadium, constructed with funding from the Chinese government and opened in 2011, is the venue for international and national Division-1 fútbol (soccer) games. Its predecessor, dating back to 1924 and located in the same spot in Parque Metropolitano La Sabana, hosted everyone from Pope John Paul II to soccer legend Pelé and Bruce Springsteen over its 84-year history.

Casinos

Gamblers will find casinos in several of the larger hotels. Most of these are fairly casual, but in the nicer spots it’s advisable to ditch T-shirts in favor of a button-down shirt as there may be a dress code. Gents: be advised that casinos are frequented by prostitutes, so be wary if you’re suddenly the most desirable person in the room.

Casino Club ColonialCASINO

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2258-2807; www.casinoclubcolonial.com; Av 1 btwn Calles 9 & 11; h24hr)

San José’s most elegant casino.

Casino del ReyCASINO

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2257-7800; www.delreyhotel.com; Hotel del Rey, cnr Calle 9 & Av 1; h24hr)

A jam-packed shocking-pink building offering everything from roulette to slot machines and what has to be the highest density of prostitutes in the city.

CULTURAL CENTERS

Alianza Francesa (%2257-1438; www.alianzafrancesacostarica.com; cnr Calle 5 & Av 7; French course US$330; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) The Alliance has French classes, a small library and rotating art exhibits in a historic Barrio Amón home.

Centro Cultural de España (%2257-2919; www.ccecr.org; Rotonda del Farolito, Barrio Escalante; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri) One of the city’s most vibrant cultural institutions, this Spanish-run center offers a full roster of events. There is also an audiovisual center and a lending library.

7Shopping

Whether you’re looking for indigenous carvings, high-end furnishings or a stuffed sloth, San José has no shortage of shops, running the gamut from artsy boutiques to tourist traps stocked full of tropical everything. Haggling is not tolerated in stores (markets are the exception).

For the country’s finest woodcrafts, it is absolutely worth the trip to Biesanz Woodworks.

oFeria Verde de AranjuezMARKET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.feriaverde.org; Barrio Aranjuez; h7am-12:30am Sat)

For a foodie-friendly cultural experience, don’t miss this fabulous Saturday farmers market, a weekly meeting place for San José’s artists and organic growers since 2010. You’ll find organic coffee, artisanal chocolate, tropical-fruit ice blocks, fresh produce, leather, jewelry and more at the long rows of booths set up in the park at the north end of Barrio Aranjuez.

Don’t miss the mouthwatering samples of cured trout and fish dip, which an enthusiastic German expat loves feeding to passersby.

Sin Domicilio FijoARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2289-9461; www.facebook.com/sindomiciliofijo; cnr Av 32 & Calle Central; h10am-6pm Tue-Fri, from 9am Sat, to 4pm Sun)

In downtown Escazú, this art and design shop is ensconced in a historic, 150-year-old house with adobe walls, near the southwest corner of Escazú’s church. It’s full of unique handicrafts that make ideal gifts, from dainty footwear to kitchen adornments. There’s also a lovely open-air cafe that serves up fresh coffee and tasty meals.

Distrito CarmenART

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-0337; www.facebook.com/distritocarmen/; cnr Calle 11 & Av 9)

Cool new design store where you can pick up interesting art, clothing, jewelry and other odds and ends created by a couple of dozen local artists.

Cerámical Artistica SalitralCERAMICS

(%2282-7536; www.facebook.com/ceramica.artisticasalitral; 2km south of Herm gas station, road from Salitral to Santa Ana; h9am-5pm)

A long-standing, oversized ceramic store and pottery workshop on the curving country road from Santa Ana to Salitral. There are some great finds here, particularly the candle holders and masks, and the store occasionally offers private pottery lessons (call for details).

Mora BooksBOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8383-8385; www.morabooks.com; Calle 5 btwn Avs 5 & 7; h11am-7pm)

Dog-eared paperbacks in mostly English but also Spanish, French and German teeter in precarious towers atop crammed shelves at this chaotic jumble of a used bookstore. The best place in town for stocking up on reading material for the road. Hours are hit and miss.

Kiosco SJOARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2253-8426; cnr Calle 31 & Av 5; hnoon-8pm Tue-Fri, from 10am Sat, 10am-4pm Sun) S

With a focus on sustainable design by Costa Rican artisans, this sleek shop in Barrio Escalante stocks handmade jewelry, hand-tooled leather bags, original photography, stuffed animals, fashion and contemporary home decor by established designers. It’s pricey, but rest assured that everything you find here will be of exceptional quality.

eÑeARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-7681; laesquina13y7@gmail.com; cnr Av 7 & Calle 11A; h10am-6:30pm Mon-Sat)

This hip little design shop across from Casa Amarilla sells all manner of pieces crafted by Costa Rican designers and artists, including clothing, jewelry, handbags, picture frames, zines and works of graphic art.

Galería NamuARTS & CRAFTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-3412, in USA 800-616-4322; www.galerianamu.com; Av 7 btwn Calles 5 & 7; h9am-6:30pm Mon-Sat year-round, plus 1-5pm Sun Dec-Apr)

This fair-trade gallery brings together artwork and cultural objects from a diverse population of regional ethnicities, including Boruca masks, finely woven Wounaan baskets, Guaymí dolls, Bribrí canoes, Chorotega ceramics, traditional Huetar reed mats, and contemporary urban and Afro-Caribbean crafts. It can also help arrange visits to remote indigenous territories in different parts of Costa Rica.

Multiplaza EscazúMALL

(%4001-7999; www.facebook.com/MultiplazaCostaRica; Autopista Próspero Fernández; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)

Costa Rica’s most stylish and massive shopping mall has everything you need (or don’t). If you’re coming from San José, the mall can be reached by taking any bus marked ‘Escazú Multiplaza’.

Mercado ArtesanalMARKET

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Crafts Market; Plaza de la Democracia, Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 13 & 15; h9am-5pm)

A touristy open-air market that sells everything from handcrafted jewelry and Bob Marley T-shirts to elaborate woodwork and Guatemalan sarongs.

Librería LehmannBOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2522-4848; www.librerialehmann.com; Av Central btwn Calles 1 & 3; h8am-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)

Good selection of English-language books, maps and guidebooks (including Lonely Planet).

Mall San PedroMALL

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %4001-7999; http://tumallsanpedro.com; Boulevard Los Yoses)

This busy four-story mall (often used as a landmark) houses a multiscreen cinema, a food court, a video arcade and the usual mix of clothing, phone and other retailers. It’s northwest of Fuente de la Hispanidad.

WORTH A TRIP

BIESANZ WOODWORKS

Located in the hills of Bello Horizonte in Escazú, the workshop of Biesanz Woodworks (%2289-4337; www.biesanz.com; 33 Calle Pedrero; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) can be difficult to find, but the effort will be well worth it. This shop is one of the finest woodcrafting studios in the nation, run by celebrated artisan Barry Biesanz.

His bowls and other decorative containers are exquisite and take their inspiration from pre-Columbian techniques, in which the natural lines and forms of the wood determine the shape and size of the bowl. The pieces are expensive (from US$45 for a palm-size bowl), but they are unique – and so delicately crafted that they wouldn’t be out of place in a museum.

8Orientation

San José’s center is arranged in a grid with avenidas (avenues) running east to west and calles (streets) running north to south. Av Central is the nucleus of the downtown area and is a pedestrian mall between Calles 6 and 9. The downtown has several loosely defined barrios (neighborhoods); those of greatest interest to tourists are north and east of Plaza de la Cultura, including Barrio Amón, Barrio Otoya, Barrio Aranjuez, Barrio Escalante and Barrio La California. The central area is home to innumerable businesses, hotels and cultural sites, while the area immediately west of downtown is home to San José’s central market and many of its bus terminals.

Slightly further west of downtown is La Sabana, named for its huge and popular park where many josefinos spend their weekends jogging, swimming, picnicking or attending soccer matches.

A few kilometers southwest is the affluent outer suburb of Escazú, really three neighborhoods in one: Escazú Centro with its peaceful central plaza and unhurried Tico ambiance; the US expatriate enclave of San Rafael, dotted with strip malls, top-end car dealerships, tract housing and chain restaurants; and San Antonio, a hillside mix of humble rural homes, sprawling estates and spectacular views. Still further west is the up-and-coming enclave of Santa Ana, another expat favorite with oodles of green space, a fantastically warm and dry climate and new businesses galore.

East (and within walking distance) of the center are the contiguous neighborhoods of Los Yoses and San Pedro, the former a low-key residential area with some nice accommodations, the latter home to the tree-lined campus of the UCR, the country’s most prestigious university. Marking the dividing line between Los Yoses and San Pedro is a traffic roundabout graced by a large fountain known as the Fuente de la Hispanidad (a frequently referenced local landmark). North of Los Yoses is Barrio Escalante, home to some of San José’s trendiest bars and restaurants.

TOURIST POLICE

The establishment in 2007 of the policía turística (tourist police; you’ll see them patrolling in pairs around San José, on foot, bicycle and even horseback) has helped prevent petty crimes against foreigners. These officers can be helpful in the event of an emergency since most of them speak at least some English.

If you find yourself the victim of a crime, you’ll have to file a report in person at the Organismo de Investigacíon Judicial (%2222-1365, 2295-3000; Calle 17 btwn Avs 6 & 8; h24hr) in the Supreme Court of Justice building on the south side of downtown.

8Information

DANGER & ANNOYANCES

Though Costa Rica has the lowest crime rate of any Central American country, crime in urban centers such as San José is a problem. The most common offense is opportunistic theft (eg pickpocketing and mugging). Keep a streetwise attitude, leave your car empty of valuables in a guarded lot and never put your bag in the overhead racks on a bus. Men should be aware that prostitutes are known for sleight-of-hand, and that they often work in pairs.

Neighborhoods covered by Lonely Planet are generally safe during the day, though you should be especially careful around the Coca-Cola bus terminal and the red-light district south of Parque Central, particularly at night. Be advised that adjacent neighborhoods can vary greatly in terms of safety; inquire locally before setting out.

Gridlocked traffic, gigantic potholes, noise and smog are unavoidable components of the San José experience. Most central hotels are subject to street noise, no matter how nice they are. Be skeptical of touts and taxi drivers who try to sell you tours or tell you that the hotel you’ve booked is a crime-infested bordello. Many of them will say anything to steer you to the places that pay them commissions.

EMERGENCY

Fire	%118
Red Cross	%128
Traffic Police	%2523-3300, 2222-9245, 2222-9330

INTERNET ACCESS

Most accommodations offer free wi-fi and/or guest computers. You’ll also find plenty of cyber cafes, charging US$0.50 to US$1 per hour.

MEDICAL SERVICES

Clínica Bíblica (%2522-1000; www.clinicabiblica.com; Av 14 btwn Calles Central & 1; h24hr) The top private clinic downtown has a 24-hour emergency room; doctors speak English, French and German.

Hospital Calderón Guardia (%2212-1000; cnr Calle 17 btwn Avs 7 & 9; h24hr) A public hospital in central San José.

Hospital CIMA (%2208-1000; www.hospitalcima.com; Autopista Próspero Fernández; h24hr) For serious medical emergencies, head to this hospital in San Rafael de Escazú. Its facilities are the most modern in the greater San José area.

Hospital La Católica (%2246-3000; www.hospitallacatolica.com; 109, Guadalupe; h24hr) Pricey private clinic geared toward medical-tourism patients from abroad.

Hospital San Juan de Dios (%2547-8000; cnr Paseo Colón & Calle 14; h24hr) Free public hospital open 24 hours; expect long waits.

POST

Correo Central (Central Post Office; MAP; %2202-2900; www.correos.go.cr; Calle 2 btwn Avs 1 & 3; h6:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) In a gorgeous historic building near the center of town. Express and overnight services.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Canatur (Cámara Nacional de Turismo; %2234-6222; www.canatur.org; Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría; h7am-10pm) The Costa Rican National Chamber of Tourism provides information on member services from a small stand next to international baggage claim.

VOLUNTEERING

For travelers who want an experience beyond vacation, there are dozens of not-for-profit organizations in San José that gladly accept volunteers.

Central American Service Expeditions (%8839-0515; www.serviceexpeditions.com) A Costa Rican nonprofit that creates custom volunteer opportunities for families and teens focused on sustainability.

Educational Travel Adventures (%in USA & Canada 866-273-2500; www.etadventures.com) Arranges a wide variety of volunteer trips, conservation projects and service learning opportunities.

United Planet (%in USA 1-617-874-8041; www.unitedplanet.org) Places volunteers in programs on global health, education and the environment.

8Getting There & Away

San José is the country’s transportation hub, and it’s likely that you’ll pass through the capital a number of times throughout your travels (whether you want to or not).

AIR

International flights leave from Juan Santamaría (SJO) airport outside Alajuela.

Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (%2437-2400; www.fly2sanjose.com) Handles international flights and NatureAir (%2299-6000, in USA 1-800-235-9272; www.natureair.com) domestic flights in its main terminal. Domestic flights on Sansa (%2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) depart from the Sansa terminal.

Aeropuerto Tobías Bolaños (%2232-2820; Pavas) In the San José suburb of Pavas; services private charter and a few national flights.

BUS

Bus transportation in San José can be bewildering. There is no public bus system and no central terminal. Instead, dozens of private companies operate out of stops scattered throughout the city. Many bus companies have no more than a stop (in this case pay the driver directly); some have a tiny office with a window on the street; others operate from bigger terminals servicing entire regions.

Note that bus schedules and prices change regularly. Pick up a copy of the free (but not always up-to-date) booklet Itinerario de Buses from San José’s downtown tourist office, or download a PDF version from www.visitcostarica.com (most easily located in your search engine by typing ‘Costa Rica Itinerario de Buses’). Buses are crowded on Friday evening and Saturday morning and packed to the gills at Christmas and Easter.

For buses that run infrequently, it is advisable to buy tickets in advance.

Bus Terminals

Collectively, the following five San José terminals serve Costa Rica’s most popular destinations. Chances are you’ll be passing through one or more of them during your trip. Be aware that theft is common in many bus terminals. Stay alert, keep your valuables close to you and don’t stow anything important (such as passports and money) in the overhead racks or luggage compartment of a bus.

Gran Terminal del Caribe (Calle Central) This roomy station north of Av 13 is the central departure point for all buses to the Caribbean.

Terminal 7-10 (%2519-9740; www.terminal7-10.com; cnr 7th Av & Calle 10) This newer bus terminal is a base for routes to Nicoya, Nosara, Sámara, Santa Cruz, Tamarindo, Jacó, Monteverde, La Fortuna and a few other places. The four-story facility has a food court, shopping center and parking lot. Although it’s located in the zona roja, historically a dangerous area of the city, police have stepped up their patrols to reduce crime.

Terminal Coca-Cola (MAP; Av 1 btwn Calles 16 & 18) A well-known landmark. Numerous buses leave from the terminal and the four-block radius around it to points all over Costa Rica, in particular the Central Valley and the Pacific coast. This is a labyrinthine station with ticket offices scattered all over.

Terminal del Atlántico Norte (cnr Av 9 & Calle 12) A small, rather decrepit terminal serving the Southern Caribbean and Puerto Jiménez.

Terminal Tracopa (MAP; %2221-4214; www.tracopacr.com; Calle 5 btwn Avs 18 & 20) Buses to southwestern destinations including Neily, Dominical, Golfito, Manuel Antonio, Palmar Norte, Paso Canoas, Quepos, San Isidro de El General, San Vito and Uvita.

INTERNATIONAL BUSES FROM SAN JOSÉ

DESTINATION	BUS COMPANY	COST (US$)	DURATION	FREQUENCY
David (Panama)	Tracopa	21	8½hr	7:30am, noon
Guatemala City (Guatemala)	Tica Bus	86	48hr	3am, 6am, 7am, 12:30pm
Managua (Nicaragua)	Tica Bus	29-42	9hr	3am, 6am, 7:30am, 12:30pm
Managua (Nicaragua)	TransNica	28	8½hr	2am, 4am, 5am, 9am, noon
Managua (Nicaragua)	Central Line	29	8½hr	4:30am, 10am
Managua (Nicaragua)	Nicabus	29	8hr	4:30am, 6:30am
Panama City (Panama)	Expreso Panamá	40	14hr	noon
Panama City (Panama)	Tica Bus	42-58	16hr	noon, 11:55pm
San Salvador (El Salvador)	Tica Bus	65	20hr	3am, 6am, 7:30am, 12:30pm
Tegucigalpa (Honduras)	TransNica	57	16hr	2am

Domestic Bus Companies

Autotransportes Caribeños (%2222-0610; www.grupocaribenos.com; Gran Terminal del Caribe, Calle Central) Northeastern destinations including Puerto Limón, Guápiles, Cariari, Siquirres and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; the Caribeños group encompasses several smaller companies (including Empresarios Guapileños and Líneas del Atlántico), all of which share the same terminal and customer-service phone number.

Autotransportes Mepe (%2257-8129; www.mepecr.com; cnr Av 9 & Calle 12, Terminal del Atlántico Norte) Southern Caribbean destinations including Cahuita, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Manzanillo, Bribrí and Sixaola.

Autotransportes San Carlos (%2255-4300; cnr Av 7 & Calle 10, Terminal 7-10) La Fortuna, Ciudad Quesada and Los Chiles.

Blanco Lobo (MAP; %2257-4121; cnr Av 9 & Calle 12, Terminal del Atlántico Norte) Puerto Jiménez.

Coopetrans Atenas (MAP; %2446-5767; www.coopetransatenas.com; Av 1 btwn Calles 16 & 18, Terminal Coca-Cola) Atenas.

Empresa Alfaro (%2222-2666; www.empresaalfaro.com; cnr Av 7 & Calle 10, Terminal 7-10) Nicoya, Nosara, Sámara, Santa Cruz and Tamarindo.

Empresarios Unidos (MAP; %2221-6600; cnr Av 12 & Calle 16) Buses to San Ramón and Puntarenas.

Lumaca (MAP; %2552-5280; Av 10 btwn Calles 5 & 7) Cartago.

Metrópoli (MAP; %2530-1064; Av 2 btwn Calles 1 & 3) Volcán Irazú.

Musoc (%2222-2422; Calle Central btwn Avs 22 & 24) San Isidro de El General and Santa María de Dota.

Pulmitan de Liberia (MAP; %2222-0610; Calle 24 btwn Avs 5 & 7) Northwestern destinations including Cañas, Liberia, Playa del Coco and Tilarán.

Station Wagon (MAP; %2441-1181; Av 2 btwn Calles 10 & 12) Alajuela and the airport.

Terminal Tracopa Southwestern destinations including Ciudad Neily, Dominical, Golfito, Manuel Antonio, Palmar Norte, Paso Canoas, Quepos, San Isidro de El General, San Vito and Uvita.

Tralapa (MAP; %2223-5876; Av 5 btwn Calles 20 & 22) Several Península de Nicoya destinations, including Playa Flamingo, Playa Hermosa, Playa Tamarindo and Santa Cruz.

Transmonteverde (%2645-7447; www.facebook.com/Transmonteverde; cnr Av 7 & Calle 10, Terminal 7-10) Monteverde.

Transportes Cobano (%2221-7479; transportescobano@gmail.com; cnr Av 7 & Calle 10, Terminal 7-10) Montezuma and Mal País.

Transportes Deldú (Calle Central, Gran Terminal de Caribe) Peñas Blancas (Nicaraguan border).

Transportes Jacó (%2290-2922; www.transportesjacoruta655.com; cnr Av 7 & Calle 10, Terminal 7-10) Jacó.

Transtusa (MAP; %4036-1800; www.transtusacr.com; Calle 13A btwn Avs 6 & 8) Cartago and Turrialba.

Tuan (Terminal de Buses Grecia; MAP; %2494-2139, 2258-2004; cnr Av 5 & Calle 18A) Grecia.

Tuasa (MAP; %2442-6900; Av 2 btwn Calles 12 & 14) Alajuela and the airport.

DOMESTIC BUSES FROM SAN JOSÉ

DESTINATION	BUS COMPANY	COST (US$)	DURATION (HR)	FREQUENCY
Cahuita	Mepe	8.64	4	6am, 8am, 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm
Cañas	Pulmitan	4.12	3½	11:40am, 1:30pm, 3:30pm
Cariari	Caribeños	2.97	2½	6:30am, 9am, 10:30am, 1pm, 3pm, 4:30pm, 6pm, 7pm
Cartago	Lumaca	1.04	1	every 15min
Ciudad Neily	Tracopa	13.16	6½-7½	11 daily
Ciudad Quesada	San Carlos	3.34	3	hourly
Dominical & Uvita	Tracopa	9.34	4½-5½	6am, 3pm
Golfito	Tracopa	13.16	6½	6:30am, 7am, 3:30pm
Grecia	Tuan	1.91	1	half-hourly
Guápiles	Caribeños	2.43	1¼	half-hourly
Jacó	Transportes Jacó	4.23	2½	every 2hr 7am-5pm
La Fortuna	San Carlos	4.41	4	12:45pm, 2:45pm
Liberia	Pulmitan	8.03	4½	hourly 6am-8pm
Los Chiles	San Carlos	5.16	5	5:15am, 3pm
Manzanillo	Mepe	11.17	5	noon
Monteverde/Santa Elena	Transmonteverde	4.97	4½	6:30am, 2:30pm
Montezuma/Mal País	Cobano	12.42	5½-6	6am, 6:30am, 2pm
Nicoya	Alfaro	7.13	5	5:30, 7:30am, 10am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm
Palmar	Tracopa	10.32	6	13 daily
Paso Canoas	Tracopa	13.81	7-8	13 daily
Peñas Blancas	Deldú	8.18	6	9 daily
Playa del Coco	Pulmitan	9.87	5½	8am, 2pm, 4pm
Playa Flamingo	Tralapa	10.27	6	8am, 10:30am, 3pm
Playa Nosara	Alfaro	8.11	6	5:30am
Playa Sámara	Alfaro	7.54	5	noon
Playa Hermosa	Tralapa	8.90	5	3:30pm
Playa Tamarindo	Alfaro	9.51	5	11:30am, 3:30pm
Playa Tamarindo	Tralapa	8.92	5	7am, 4pm
Puerto Jiménez	Blanco Lobo	15	8	8am, noon
Puerto Limón	Caribeños	5.64	3	hourly
Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí	Caribeños	4.47	2½	10 daily
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca	Mepe	10.04	4½	6am, 8am, 10am, noon, 2pm, 4pm, 6pm
Puntarenas	Empresarios Unidos	4.57	2½	hourly
Quepos/Manuel Antonio	Tracopa	8.10	3½	every 1-2hr
San Isidro de El General	Musoc	6.41	3	hourly 4:30am-6:30pm
San Isidro de El General	Tracopa	6.36	3	hourly
San Vito	Tracopa	12.03	7	6am, 8:15am, noon, 12:15pm, 4pm
Santa Cruz	Alfaro	9.15	5	7 daily
Santa Cruz	Tralapa	8.97	5	9am, noon, 2pm, 6pm
Santa María de Dota	Musoc	4.16	2	6am, 9am, 12:30pm, 2:30pm, 3pm, 5pm, 7:30pm
Sarchí	Tuan	1.93	1½	11:45pm, 5:30pm, 6:05pm Mon-Fri, noon Sat
Siquirres	Caribeños	2.83	2	hourly
Sixaola	Mepe	12.32	5½	6am, 8am, 10am, 2pm, 4pm
Tilarán	Pulmitan	8.04	4	7:30am, 9:30am, 12:45pm, 3:45pm, 6:30pm
Turrialba	Transtusa	2.40	2	hourly
Volcán Irazú	Metrópoli	8.20 round trip	2	8am

International Bus Companies

International buses get booked up fast. Buy your tickets in advance – and take your passport.

Transportes Central Line (MAP; %2221-9115; http://transportescentralline.com; Av 9) Managua (Nicaragua).

Expreso Panamá (MAP; %2221-7694; www.expresopanama.com; Terminal Empresarios Unidos, cnr Av 12 & Calle 16) Panama City (Panama).

Nicabus (MAP; %2221-2581; cnr Av 1 & Calle 20) Managua (Nicaragua).

Tica Bus (MAP; %2296-9788; www.ticabus.com; cnr Transversal 26 & Av 3) Nicaragua, Panama, El Salvador and Guatemala.

TransNica (MAP; %2223-4242; www.transnica.com; Calle 22 btwn Avs 3 & 5) Nicaragua and Honduras.

Shuttle Buses

Grayline (%2220-2126; www.graylinecostarica.com; Av 31) and Interbus (%4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com; Av 20) shuttle passengers in air-conditioned minivans from San José to a long list of popular destinations around Costa Rica. They are more expensive than the standard bus services, but they offer door-to-door service and can get you there faster.

8Getting Around

Central San José frequently resembles a parking lot – narrow streets, heavy traffic and a complicated one-way system mean that it is often quicker to walk than to take the bus. The same applies to driving: if you rent a car, try to avoid downtown. If you’re in a real hurry to get somewhere that’s more than 1km away, take an Uber or a taxi.

If traveling by bus, you’ll arrive at one of several bus terminals sprinkled around the western and southern parts of downtown. Some of this area is walkable provided you aren’t hauling a lot of luggage and are staying nearby. But, if you’re arriving at night, take a taxi, since most terminals are in dodgy areas.

BUS

Local buses are useful to get you into the suburbs and surrounding villages, or to the airport. Most buses run between 5am and 10pm and cost between US$0.40 and US$1.10.

La Sabana To catch a bus heading west from San José towards La Sabana (US$0.40), head for the convenient downtown stop at the southeast corner of Av 3 and Calle 3. Buses returning from Parque La Sabana to downtown follow Paseo Colón, then go over to Av 2 at the San Juan de Dios hospital. They then go three different ways through town before eventually heading back to La Sabana. Buses are marked Sabana–Estadio, Sabana–Cementerio or Cementerio–Estadio. These buses are a good bet for a cheap city tour.

Los Yoses & San Pedro Catch eastbound buses to Los Yoses and San Pedro (US$0.50) from the northeast corner of Calle Central and Av 9 (MAP; Av Central). These buses run east along Av 2 and then switch over to Av Central at Calle 29. (Many are easily identifiable by the big sign that says ‘Mall San Pedro’ on the front window.)

Escazú Buses southwest to Escazú (US$0.65 to US$0.80, 15 to 25 minutes) leave from two different locations: Av 6 (MAP) between Calles 14 and 16 (south of the Hospital San Juan de Dios), and Calle 16 between Avs 1 and 3 (near the Coca-Cola terminal). Buses labeled ‘San Antonio de Escazú’ climb the hill south of Escazú and end near the Iglesia San Antonio de Escazú; those labeled ‘Escazú Centro’ end in Escazú’s main plaza (MAP; Calle 136); others, labeled ‘Guachipelín’, go west on the Carretera John F. Kennedy and pass the Costa Rica Country Club. All go through San Rafael.

Heredia Regular buses (MAP; Calle 1 btwn Avs 7 & 9) leave from Calle 1 and Av 7.

CAR

It is not advisable to rent a car just to drive around San José. The traffic is heavy, the streets are narrow and the meter-deep curbside gutters make parking nerve-wracking. In addition, break-ins are frequent, and leaving a car – even in a guarded lot – might result in a smashed window and stolen belongings.

If you are renting a car to travel throughout Costa Rica, there are more than 50 car-rental agencies – including many of the global brands – in and around San José. Travel agencies and upmarket hotels can arrange rentals; you can also arrange rentals online and at the airport. Note: If you book a rental car online and the low cost seems too good to be true, it is. Rental agencies are notorious for tacking on hundreds of dollars in mandatory insurance when you arrive. They are also known to lie about this over the phone.

One excellent local option is Wild Rider (%2258-4604; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 30 & 32; h8am-6pm). They have a fleet of more than 60 very reasonably priced 4WD vehicles (from US$380 per week in high season, including all mandatory insurance coverage). Long-term rentals (four weeks or more) allow a discount of up to 40%. Reserve well in advance.

MOTORCYCLE

Wild Rider rents sports bikes such as the Honda XR-250 or the Suzuki DRZ-400S. Prices start at US$420 per week in high season (including insurance, taxes and helmets).

TAXI

Red taxis can be hailed on the street day or night, or you can have your hotel call one for you.

Marías (meters) are generally used, though a few drivers will tell you they’re broken and try to charge you more – especially if you don’t speak Spanish. Not using a meter is illegal. The rate for the first kilometer should automatically appear when the meter starts up (at the time of research, the correct starting amount was 610 colones). Make sure the maría is operating when you get in, or negotiate the fare up front. Short rides downtown cost US$2 to US$4. There’s a 20% surcharge after 10pm that may not appear on the maría.

You can hire a taxi and a driver for half a day or longer if you want to do some touring around the area; for such trips, it is best to negotiate a flat fee in advance. Uber has also become a popular form of transport in the city.