San José
San José
Pop 2,158,898 / Elev 1170m
Why Go?
Chances are San José wasn’t the top destination on your list when you started planning your Costa Rica trip, but give this city a chance and you might be pleasantly surprised. It’s true that Chepe – as San José is affectionately known – doesn’t make a great first impression, with its unremarkable concrete structures and honking traffic, but it’s well worth digging deeper to discover the city’s charms.
Take your time exploring historic neighborhoods such as Barrio Amón, where colonial mansions have been converted into contemporary art galleries, and Barrio Escalante, the city’s gastronomic epicenter. Stroll with Saturday shoppers at the farmers market, join the Sunday crowds in Parque La Sabana, dance the night away to live music at one of the city’s vibrant clubs, or visit the museums of gold, jade, art and natural history, and you’ll begin to understand the multidimensional appeal of Costa Rica’s largest city and cultural capital.
When to Go
A Rainy season usually lasts from mid-April through December, and is therefore a great time to look for deals and beat the crowds. Beware of October, which usually sees heavy rains for days at a time.
A The city’s climate is considerably cooler than on the coasts, especially at night; daytime temps generally vary between 21°C and 27°C (70°F to 80°F).
A The best time to visit is around the Christmas holidays, when the Ticos’ festive cheer reaches its height with the Festival de la Luz and Las Fiestas de Zapote.
A Any season is good for exploring the capital’s cultural attractions.
Best Places to Eat
Best Places to Stay
San José Highlights
1 Teatro Nacional Savoring performances amid the beaux-arts interior.
2 Feria Verde de Aranjuez Poking around the Saturday farmers market in search of locally grown treats.
3 Barrio Amón Visiting colonial mansions that have been converted into coffee shops, art galleries and music venues.
4 Estadio Nacional de Costa Rica Attending a soccer match or concert in the legendary, clam-shaped arena.
5 Museo de Jade Exploring the vast universe of carved stone and ceramic treasures.
6 Barrio Escalante Indulging your taste buds at fun bars and fine eateries.
7 Museo de Oro Precolombino y Numismática Admiring Costa Rica’s artistic traditions, past and present.
8 Really Experience Community Learning about the struggles of less fortunate city residents on a respectful and engaging tour.
History
For much of the colonial period, San José played second fiddle to bigger and relatively more established Cartago, a city whose origins date back to 1563 and which, during the colonial era, served as the provincial capital. Villanueva de la Boca del Monte del Valle de Abra – as San José was first known – was not founded until 1737, when the Catholic Church issued an edict that forced the populace to settle near churches (attendance was down).
The city remained a backwater for decades, though it did experience some growth as a stop in the tobacco-trading route during the late 18th century. Following independence in 1821, rival factions in Cartago and San José each attempted to assert regional supremacy. The struggle ended in 1823 when the two sides faced off at the Battle of Ochomongo. San José emerged the victor and subsequently declared itself capital.
Despite its new status, the city remained a quiet agricultural center into the 20th century. The calm was shattered in the 1940s, when parts of San José served as a battlefield in the civil war of 1948, one of the bloodiest conflicts in the country’s history. Out of that clash, José Figueres Ferrer of the Partido de Liberación Nacional (National Liberation Party) emerged as the country’s interim leader – signing a declaration that abolished the army at the armory that now serves as the Museo Nacional.
The rest of the 20th century would see the expansion of the city from diminutive coffee-trading outpost to sprawling urban center. In the 1940s San José had only 70,000 residents. Today, the greater metro population stands at over 2 million. Recent years have been marked by massive urban migration as Ticos (Costa Ricans) and, increasingly, Nicaraguans have moved to the capital in search of economic opportunity. As part of this, shantytowns have mushroomed on the outskirts, and crime is increasingly becoming a part of life for the city’s poorest inhabitants.
The city remains a vital economic and arts hub, home to important banks, mus-eums and universities – as well as the everyday outposts of culture: live-music spaces, art centers, bookstores and the corner restaurants where josefinos (people from San José) gather to chew over ideas.
SAN JOSÉ IN…
One Day
Begin with a peek inside the city’s most beautiful building, the 19th-century Teatro Nacional and an espresso at the theater’s atmospheric cafe, before heading into the nearby Museo de Oro Precolombino y Numismática to peruse its trove of pre-Columbian gold treasures.
Take lunch within the city’s gastronomic hub Barrio Escalante, either on the terrace of Kalú Café & Food Shop or in a comfy booth at Rávi Gastropub. Wander historic Barrio Amón, with stops at Galería Namu and eÑe, then end your afternoon sampling Costa Rican microbrews at Stiefel or sipping a cocktail at the fabulous Café de los Deseos.
Two Days
Start your second day in town with a primer on Costa Rican history at the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica, then cross Plaza de la Democracia to the newly relocated and expanded Museo de Jade. After a stroll through the neighboring Mercado Artesanal for handicrafts, head northwest to the Mercado Central to shop for Costa Rican coffee, cigars and cheap snacks.
In the evening, grab dinner at the city’s top restaurant, Park Café, then venture east for a drink at the new rooftop bar at Hotel Presidente, en route to catching a local band at either Jazz Café or Mundoloco El Chante.
San José
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
1Sights
1Central San José
oTeatro NacionalNOTABLE BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 
%2010-1110; www.teatronacional.go.cr; Av 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5; US$10; 
h9am-7pm)
On the southern side of the Plaza de la Cultura resides the Teatro Nacional, San José’s most revered building. Constructed in 1897, it features a columned neoclassical facade that is flanked by statues of Beethoven and famous 17th-century Spanish dramatist Calderón de la Barca. The lavish marble lobby and auditorium are lined with paintings depicting various facets of 19th-century life. The hourly tours here are fantastic, and if you’re looking to rest your feet, there’s also an excellent onsite cafe.
The theater’s most famous painting is Alegoría al café y el banano, an idyllic canvas showing coffee and banana harvests. It was produced in Italy and shipped to Costa Rica for installation in the theater, and the image was reproduced on the old ₡5 note (now out of circulation). It seems clear that the painter never witnessed a banana harvest because of the way the man in the center is awkwardly grasping a bunch (actual banana workers hoist the stems onto their shoulders).
oMuseo de JadeMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2521-6610; www.museodeljadeins.com; Plaza de la Democracia; US$15; h10am-5pm)
This museum houses the world’s largest collection of American jade (pronounced ‘ha-day’ in Spanish), with an ample exhibition space of five floors offering seven exhibits. There are nearly 7000 finely crafted, well-conserved pieces, from translucent jade carvings depicting fertility goddesses, shamans, frogs and snakes to incredible ceramics (some reflecting Maya influences), including a highly unusual ceramic head displaying a row of serrated teeth. The new museum cafe, Grano Verde, serves sandwiches, salads and smoothies. Children aged five and under have free entry to the museum.
oMuseo de Oro Precolombino y NumismáticaMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2243-4202; www.museosdelbancocentral.org; Plaza de la Cultura, Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5; adult/student/child US$11/8/free; h9:15am-5pm)
This three-in-one museum houses an extensive collection of Costa Rica’s most priceless pieces of pre-Columbian gold and other artifacts, including historical currency and some contemporary regional art. The museum, located underneath the Plaza de la Cultura, is owned by the Banco Central and its architecture brings to mind all the warmth and comfort of a bank vault. Security is tight; visitors must leave bags at the door.
Mercado CentralMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Avs Central & 1 btwn Calles 6 & 8; h6:30am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Though josefinos mainly do their shopping at chain supermarkets, San José’s crowded indoor markets retain an old-world feel. This is the main market, lined with vendors hawking everything from spices and coffee beans to pura vida souvenir T-shirts made in China. It’s all super cheap, and likely made in China or Nicaragua.
In December Mercado Central sometimes has extended hours and is open on Sundays.
Central San José
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
3Entertainment
7Shopping
Mercado BorbónMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2223-3512; www.facebook.com/mercadoborbon; cnr Av 3 & Calle 8; h5am-6pm Mon-Sat)
The Mercado Borbón focuses on produce, though it sells a bit of everything. (Be aware: the streets can get sketchy around the Borbón. Keep a close watch on your bag.)
Museo Nacional de Costa RicaMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2257-1433; www.museocostarica.go.cr; Calle 17 btwn Avs Central & 2; adult/child US$9/4; h8:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, 9am-4:30pm Sun)
Entered via a beautiful glassed-in atrium housing an exotic butterfly garden, this museum provides a quick survey of Costa Rican history. Exhibits of pre-Columbian pieces from ongoing digs, as well as artifacts from the colony and the early republic, are all housed inside the old Bellavista Fortress, which historically served as the army headquarters and saw fierce fighting (hence the pockmarks) in the 1948 civil war. It was here that President José Figueres Ferrer announced, in 1949, that he was abolishing the country’s military. Among the museum’s many notable pieces is the fountain pen that Figueres used to sign the 1949 constitution.
Don’t miss the period galleries in the northeast corner, which feature turn-of-the-20th-century furnishings and decor from when these rooms served as the private residences of the fort’s various commanders.
Museo de los Niños & Galería NacionalMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2258-4929; www.museocr.org; Calle 4, north of Av 9; adult/child US$3.80/3.50; h8am-4:30pm Tue-Fri, 9:30am-5pm Sat & Sun; 
c)
If you were wondering how to get your young kids interested in art and science, this unusual museum – actually two museums in one – is an excellent place to start. Housed in an old penitentiary built in 1909, it is part children’s museum and part art gallery. Small children will love the hands-on exhibits related to science, geography and natural history, while grown-ups will enjoy the unusual juxtaposition of contemporary art in abandoned prison cells.
Barrio AmónAREA
North and west of Plaza España lies this pleasant, historic neighborhood, home to a cluster of cafetalero (coffee grower) mansions constructed during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In recent years, many of the area’s historic buildings have been converted into hotels, restaurants and offices, making this a popular district for an architectural stroll. You’ll find everything from art-deco concrete manses to brightly painted tropical Victorian structures in various states of upkeep. It is a key arts center.
Plaza de la CulturaPLAZA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5)
This architecturally unremarkable concrete plaza in the heart of downtown is usually packed with locals slurping ice-cream cones and admiring the wide gamut of San José street life: juggling clowns, itinerant vendors and cruising teenagers. It is perhaps one of the safest spots in the city since there’s a police tower stationed at one corner.
Museo de Arte y Diseño ContemporáneoMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; MADC; %2257-7202; www.madc.cr; cnr Av 3 & Calle 15; US$3, Tue free; h9:30am-5pm Tue-Sat)
Commonly referred to as MADC, the Contemporary Art & Design Museum is housed in the historic National Liquor Factory building, which dates from 1856. The largest and most important contemporary-art museum in the region, MADC is focused on the works of contemporary Costa Rican, Central American and South American artists, and occasionally features temporary exhibits devoted to interior design, fashion and graphic art.
Central Nacional de la CulturaLANDMARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Cenac; Calle 11A; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Housed in the historic National Liquor Factory, this cultural center contains the museum of art and design, a video museum, a gallery and two theaters.
TEOR/éTicaGALLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2233-4881; www.teoretica.org; cnr Calle 7 & Av 11; h9am-5pm Mon, Tue & Thu, to 6pm Wed, to noon Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) 
F
This contemporary-art museum is the bricks-and-mortar gathering space for the TEOR/éTica Foundation, a nonprofit organization that supports Central American art and culture. Housed in a pair of vintage mansions across the street from one another, each of its elegant rooms exhibits cutting-edge works by established and emerging figures from Latin America and the rest of the world.
Parque NacionalPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Avs 1 & 3 btwn Calles 15 & 19)
One of San José’s nicest green spaces, this shady spot lures retirees to read newspapers and young couples to smooch coyly on concrete benches. At its center is the Monumento Nacional, a dramatic 1953 statue that depicts the Central American nations driving out North American filibuster William Walker. The park is dotted with myriad monuments devoted to Latin American historical figures, including Cuban poet, essayist and revolutionary José Martí, Mexican independence figure Miguel Hidalgo and 18th-century Venezuelan humanist Andrés Bello. Across the street, to the south, stands the Asamblea Legislativa (Legislative Assembly; cnr Av 8 & Calle 33), which also bears an important statue: this one a depiction of Juan Santamaría – the young man who helped kick the pesky Walker out of Costa Rica – in full flame-throwing action.
Parque Zoológico Nacional Simón BolívarZOO
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-0012; www.fundazoo.org; Av 11 btwn Calles 7 & 9; adult/child US$5/3.70; h8:30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4:30pm Sat & Sun; c)
It may seem ironic to visit a zoo in one of the most biologically rich countries in the world, but this is a popular spot with local families who pour in on weekends to peek at the animals. It’s rough around the edges – the cages are cramped and a few travelers have complained of the animals’ filthy living spaces – but for small children it can serve as a basic primer on the area’s wildlife.
If you have time for a day trip, a much better option is Zoo Ave outside Alajuela.
Spirogyra Jardín de MariposasGARDENS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-2937; www.butterflygardencr.com; Barrio Amón; adult/child US$7/4; h9am-2pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun; c; 
gto El Pueblo)
Housing more than 30 species of butterfly – including the luminescent blue morpho – in plant-filled enclosures, this small butterfly garden is a great spot for kids. Visit in the morning to see plenty of fluttering. The garden is 150m east and 150m south of Centro Comercial El Pueblo, which can be reached on foot (about a 20- to 30-minute walk from downtown), by taxi or by bus.
Plaza de la DemocraciaPLAZA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Avs Central & 2 btwn Calles 13 & 15)
Between the Museo Nacional and the Museo de Jade is the stark Plaza de la Democracia, which was constructed by President Oscar Arias in 1989 to commemorate 100 years of Costa Rican democracy. The concrete plaza is architecturally dull, but some of its elevated terraces provide decent views of the mountains surrounding San José (especially at sunset). On its western flank is an open-air crafts market.
Catedral MetropolitanaCATHEDRAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-3820; Avs 2 & 4 btwn Calles Central & 1)
East of Parque Central, the Renaissance-style Catedral Metropolitana was built in 1871 after the previous cathedral was destroyed in an earthquake. The graceful neoclassical interior has colorful Spanish-tile floors, stained-glass windows, and a Christ figure that was produced by a Guatemalan workshop in the late 17th century. On the north side of the nave, a recumbent Christ that dates back to 1878 draws devout Ticos, who arrive here to pray and deposit pleas scribbled on small slips of paper.
Estación del Ferrocarril de Costa RicaHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Estación Atlántico; %2542-5800; www.incofer.go.cr; cnr Av 3 & Calle 21)
Less than a block to the east of the Parque Nacional is San José’s historic train station to the Atlantic, which was built in 1908. Nowadays offering weekday train service to Heredia and Cartago, it’s a remarkable example of tropical architecture, with swirling art nouveau–inspired beams and elaborate stonework along the roofline.
Parque MorazánPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Avs 3 & 5 btwn Calles 5 & 9)
Southwest of Parque España is Parque Morazán, named for Francisco Morazán, the 19th-century general who attempted to unite the Central American nations under a single flag. Once a notorious center of prostitution, the park is now beautifully illuminated in the evenings. At its center is the Templo de Música (Music Temple), a concrete bandstand that serves as an unofficial symbol of San José.
Parque CentralPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Avs 2 & 4 btwn Calles Central & 2)
The city’s central park is more of a run-down plaza. At its center is a grandiose bandstand that looks as if it was designed by Mussolini: massive concrete arches support a florid roof capped with a ball-shaped decorative knob.
Parque EspañaPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Avs 3 & 7 btwn Calles 9 & 11)
Surrounded by heavy traffic, Parque España may be small, but it becomes a riot of birdsong every day at sunset when the local avian population comes in to roost. In addition to being a good spot for a shady break, the park is home to an ornate statue of Christopher Columbus that was given to the people of Costa Rica in 2002 by his descendants, commemorating the quincentenary of the explorer’s landing in Puerto Limón.
Edificio MetálicoLANDMARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; cnr Av 5 & Calle 9)
One of downtown San José’s most striking buildings, this century-old, two-story metal edifice on Parque España’s western edge was prefabricated in Belgium, then shipped piece by piece to San José. Today it functions as a school and local landmark.
Casa AmarillaHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av 7 btwn Calles 11 & 13)
On Parque España’s northeast corner, this elegant colonial-style yellow mansion (closed to the public) houses the Foreign Affairs Ministry. The ceiba tree in front was planted by John F Kennedy during his 1963 visit to Costa Rica. If you walk around to the property’s northeast corner, you can see a graffiti-covered slab of the Berlin Wall standing in the rear garden.
1La Sabana & Around
Parque Metropolitano La SabanaPARK
Once the site of San José’s main airport, this 72-hectare green space at the west end of Paseo Colón is home to a museum, a lagoon and various sporting facilities – most notably Costa Rica’s National Stadium. During the day, the park’s paths make a relaxing place for a stroll, a jog or a picnic.
Museo de Arte CostarricenseMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-1281; www.musarco.go.cr; east entrance of Parque La Sabana; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun; c) F
This Spanish-style structure served as San José’s main airport terminal until 1955. The recently remodeled museum features regional art and other exhibits.
Museo de Ciencias Naturales La SalleMUSEUM
(%2232-1306; www.museolasalle.ed.cr; Sabana Sur; adult/child US$2/1.60; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; c)
This natural-history mus-eum near Parque La Sabana’s southwest corner has an extensive collection of taxidermic animals and birds from Costa Rica and far beyond, alongside animal skeletons, minerals, preserved specimens and a vast new collection of butterflies. Kids in particular will appreciate this place.
1Escazú & Santa Ana
Refugio Herpetologico de Costa RicaANIMAL SANCTUARY
(%2282-4614; www.refugioherpetologico.com; Carretera John F. Kennedy, Santa Ana; adult/child US$20/10; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun)
Costa Rica is full of wild reptiles, but for people who prefer meeting things with scales under controlled circumstances, there’s the Refugio Herpetologico. On display are a bunch of snakes, turtles, caimans and a large crocodile, which can be viewed through a window, swimming underwater. There are also some resident spider and capuchin monkeys, plus a couple of ocelots.
1Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
Barrio EscalanteAREA
Formerly a residential enclave, the streets of this increasingly hip neighborhood are now lined with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bakeries and bars. The largest concentration of eateries stretches along Calle 33 and has been dubbed Paseo Gastronómico La Luz (La Luz Restaurant Promenade) in honor of a small grocery store that used to stand on the street’s corner facing Avenida Central. Crowds of foodies descend on Barrio Escalante on weekend evenings, when finding parking becomes a very tall order.
Museo de InsectosMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Insect Museum; %2511-8551, 2511-5318; www.facebook.com/insectosucr/; San Pedro; US$3; h8am-noon & 1-4:45pm Mon-Fri)
Reputedly Central America’s largest insect mus-eum, this place has an extensive collection assembled by the Facultad de Agronomía (agronomy faculty) at the Universidad de Costa Rica. After viewing the specimens, visitors are invited to a room with a kitchen to sample meal worms, scarabs and crickets. A little salt and oregano does wonders.
Curiously, the museum is housed in the basement of the music building, a brutalist structure painted an incongruous shade of Barbie pink.
2Activities
Parque Metropolitano La Sabana has a variety of sporting facilities, including tennis courts, volleyball, basketball and baseball areas, jogging paths and soccer pitches. Beyond that, you can hit the links at Parque Valle del Sol (%ext 3 2282-9222; www.vallesol.com; 1.7km west of HSBC Bank, Santa Ana; 9 or 18 holes US$48-67, golf carts US$23-32; h6am-6pm Tue-Sun, 8am-6pm Mon), hike to a bunch of awesome windmills at Las Eólicas (The Windmills; Santa Ana) F or learn salsa with Merecumbé San Pedro (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2224-3531; cnr Av 8 & Calle 65) or Escazú (MAP; %8884-7553, 2289-4774; www.facebook.com/merecumbe.escazu.3/; cnr Av 26 & Calle Cortés).
TTours
The city is small and easily navigable. If you’re looking for a walking tour that will guide you to key sites, there are plenty on offer.
oBarrio Bird Walking ToursWALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %6280-6169; www.toursanjosecostarica.com; tours from US$29)
Knowledge-able and engaging guides show visitors San José’s famous and not-so-famous sights, providing history and insight on the city’s architecture, markets and urban art. Specialized tours also cater to foodies and culture enthusiasts.
oReally Experience CommunityTOURS
(Triángulo de la Solidaridad Slum Tour; %2297-7058; www.boywithaball.com; US$12-25 per person, $100 minimum group rate)
Nonprofit Boy with a Ball wants to be clear: Really Experience Community is not your average slum tour. It may seem exploitative, but visiting El Triángulo, a squatter development of 2000 people north of San José, is anything but. Promising young residents lead tours, introducing guests to neighbors and community entrepreneurs. No cameras are allowed, but the conversations make a lasting impression. Note that this tour has a minimum cost of $100, making it ideal for groups. Boy With a Ball requires that you book at least three days in advance.
Teatro NacionalCULTURAL
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %ext 1114 2010-1100; www.teatronacional.go.cr/Visitenos/turismo; Av 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5; tours US$10, under 12yr free; h9am-5pm)
On this fascinating tour, guests are regaled with stories of the art, architecture and people behind Costa Rica’s crown jewel. The best part is a peek into otherwise off-limits areas, such as the Smoking Room, which feature famous paintings, lavish antique furnishings and ornate gold trim. Tours are offered every hour on the hour in Spanish and English, to a maximum of 15 people.
ChepeCletasTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8849-8316; www.chepecletas.com; Sat morning walking tours US$10 per person)
This dynamic Tico-run company offers excellent private tours focusing on history, culture, food markets, coffee and nightlife. Its ever-changing menu of offerings also includes informative walks around San José on Saturday mornings and free bike tours on Wednesdays at 7pm (and occasionally on Sunday mornings as well).
Costa Rica Art TourTOURS
(%8359-5571, in USA 877-394-6113; www.costaricaarttours.com; per person US$150)
This small outfit run by Molly Keeler conducts private tours that offer an intimate look at artists in their studios, where you can view (and buy) the work of local painters, sculptors, printmakers, ceramicists and jewelers. Lunch and San José city hotel pickup is included in the price. Reserve at least a week in advance. Discounts are available for groups.
Swiss Travel ServiceWALKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2282-4898, 8310-7636; www.swisstravelcr.com; price dependent on group size)
This long-standing agency offers a four-hour afternoon city tour of San José that hits all the key sites. Not offered on Mondays.
Carpe ChepeTOURS
(%8347-6198; www.carpechepe.com; guided pub crawls US$20; h8pm Fri & Sat)
For an insider’s look at Chepe’s nightlife, join one of these Friday- and Saturday-evening guided pub crawls, led by an enthusiastic group of young locals. A shot is included at each of the four bars visited. There are other offerings as well, including a hop-on-hop-off nightlife bus, food tours, a craft-beer tour and free walking tours of San José. Note that the tours may not run on time and can feel a bit disorganized.
zFestivals & Events
Día del BoyeroCULTURAL
(hMar)
On the second Sunday of March, Escazú holds this popular event honoring Costa Rica’s boyeros (oxcart drivers). Dozens of attendees from all over the country decorate traditional, brightly painted carts and form a colorful (if slow) parade.
Día de San JoséRELIGIOUS
(St Joseph’s Day; h19 Mar)
San José marks the day of its patron saint with Mass in some churches.
Festival de las ArtesPERFORMING ARTS
(FIA; %2248-3240; www.facebook.com/festivaldelasartescr)
About every other year, San José becomes host to this biennial citywide arts showcase that features theater, music, dance and film. It’s usually held for two weeks in March or April, but the month can vary. Keep an eye out for information in the daily newspapers.
International Book FairLITERATURE
(www.feriadellibrocostarica.com; Antigua Aduana; hAug or Sep)
Thousands descend on Costa Rica’s capital for this massive, multiday literary event, which includes readings, book sales and presentations from internationally renowned authors.
Desfile de los BoyerosCULTURAL
(Oxcart Parade; Paseo Colón; hNov)
This parade of oxcarts down Paseo Colón is a celebration of the country’s agricultural heritage.
Festival de la LuzRELIGIOUS
(Festival of Light; www.festivaldelaluz.cr; hDec)
December brings San José’s big Christmas parade, marked by elaborate costumes and floats, and an absurd amount of plastic ‘snow.’
Las Fiestas de ZapoteCULTURAL
(www.fiestaszapote.com; Zapote; hlate Dec-early Jan)
Between Christmas and New Year, this week-long holiday celebration of all things Costa Ricanannually draws in tens of thousands of Ticos to the bullring in the suburb of Zapote, just southeast of San José.
4Sleeping
Accommodations in San José run the gamut from simple but homey hostels to luxurious boutique retreats. If you’re flying into or out of Costa Rica from here, it may be more convenient to stay in Alajuela, as the town is minutes from the international airport.
Reservations are recommended in the high season (December through April), particularly the two weeks around Christmas and Semana Santa (Holy Week, the week preceding Easter).
4Central San José
Most of downtown’s better sleeping options are located east of Calle Central, many of them in historic Victorian and art-deco mansions. Many of the top-end hotels accept credit cards.
oHostel Casa del ParqueHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2233-3437; www.hostelcasadelparque.com; Calle 19 btwn Avs 1 & 3; dm US$14, d with/without bathroom US$49/39; 
W)
A vintage art-deco manse from 1936 houses this cozy and welcoming spot on the northeastern edge of Parque Nacional. Five large, basic private rooms (two with private bathroom), a newer seven-bed dormitory and an older 10-bed dormitory upstairs have parquet floors and simple furnishings. Enjoy some sun on the plant-festooned outdoor patio and take advantage of the shared kitchen.
The bilingual young owner is a good source of local dining information.
oSelina San JoséHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %4052-5147; www.selina.com/san-jose; cnr Calle 13 & Av 9; dm US$10-15, r from US$40; 
aW)
Ensconced in a rad space within centrally ocated Barrio Otoya, this hostel is part of the Selina backpacker empire now stretching across the lower Americas. Seemingly overnight, it has become the go-to hangout for young travelers, and brings in top local artists and musicians to adorn the place and perform live sets. It’s loud here, and people like it that way.
Beds are comfy, the atmosphere is convivial and the space is inspired, with a reception desk built out of an old Volkswagon. There’s a delicious restaurant too.
Casa RidgwayGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-1400, 2233-6168; www.casaridgwayhostel.com; cnr Calle 15 & Av 6A; incl breakfast dm US$17, s/d without bathroom US$24/38; 
p
nW)
This small, peaceful guesthouse on a quiet side street is run by the adjacent Friends’ Peace Center, a Quaker organization promoting social justice and human rights. There is a small lounge, a communal kitchen and a lending library filled with books about Central American politics and society. No smoking or alcohol is allowed, with quiet hours from 10pm to 6am.
Costa Rica BackpackersHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-9761, 2221-6191; www.costaricabackpackers.com; Av 6 near Calle 21; dm US$12-16, d without bathroom US$35; p
iW
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This popular hostel has 19 basic but clean dormitories and 14 private rooms with shared bathrooms surrounding a spacious hammock-filled garden and a free-form pool. Two bars, a restaurant and chill-out music enhance the inviting, laid-back atmosphere. Other benefits include a communal kitchen and TV lounge, free luggage storage, internet access, an onsite travel agency and low-cost airport transfers ($26).
Hostel ShaktiHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-4631; www.hostelshakti.com; cnr Av 8 & Calle 13; incl breakfast dm/s/d US$18/30/40; paiW)
This lovely little guesthouse uses bold colors and natural materials to create an oasis of calm and comfort amid the chaos of San José. Three dorms and four private rooms are dressed up with eclectic furnishings and colorful bedding. There is a fully equipped kitchen, but you might not need it as the onsite restaurant is healthy, fresh and amazing.
Costa Rica GuesthouseGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2223-7034; www.costa-rica-guesthouse.com; Av 6 btwn Calles 21 & 25; d incl breakfast with/without bathroom US$50/40; piW)
This 1904 guesthouse has simple, graceful rooms with spacious bathrooms and hallways lined with Spanish tiles. Furnishings are basic (creaky beds), but it’s a tranquil, couple-friendly spot. There’s a small internet lounge, an outdoor patio and an enclosed parking area out back. Laundry service (per kg US$3) is available.
Casa Botanica de AranjuezHISTORIC HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8818-1894; www.facebook.com/pg/casabotanicaaranjuez; Calle 19; r incl breakfast from US$60; W)
Set in a century-old wooden home in Barrio Aranjuez, this charming place to stay is owned by a local biologist and adorned with his personal art collection. There are five uniquely decorated units of varying sizes, some with private or shared kitchens. There’s also a basement gallery and event space where San José’s movers and shakers are known to gather.
Hostel PangeaHOSTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-1992; www.hostelpangea.com; Av 7 btwn Calles 3 & 3A, Barrio Amón; dm US$14, d with/without bathroom US$55/35, ste from US$70; piWs)
This industrial-strength hostel – 25 dorm beds and 25 private rooms – has been a popular 20-something backpacker hangout for years. It’s not difficult to see why: it’s smack in the middle of the city and comes stocked with a pool and a rooftop restaurant-lounge with stellar views. Needless to say, it’s a party spot.
Rooms are tidy, mattresses firm and the shared bathrooms enormous and clean. The hostel’s five suites have king-size beds and flat-screen TVs. Other perks include free internet, luggage storage and 24-hour airport shuttles (from US$14).
Hotel AranjuezHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-1825; www.hotelaranjuez.com; Calle 19 btwn Avs 11 & 13; r incl breakfast US$32-95; piW)
This hotel in Barrio Aranjuez consists of five nicely maintained vintage homes that have been strung together with a labyrinth of gardens and connecting walkways. The 35 spotless rooms come in various configurations, all with a lockbox and a cable TV. The hotel’s best attribute, however, is the lush garden patio, where a legendary breakfast buffet is served every morning. Though the architecture can be a bit creaky and the walls thin, the service is efficient and the hotel is a solid, family-friendly option. Rooms in the newer apartment-building annex half a block away lack the charm and sense of community of the main hotel, but annex guests still have access to the bounteous breakfast and pleasant common areas across the street.
Luz de LunaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2225-4919; www.luzdelunahotelboutique.com; Calle 33 btwn Avs 3 & 5; r US$46-75; W)
A converted old mansion, this boutique hotel, restaurant and cafe is in a prime location: the heart of Barrio Escalante’s Paseo Gastronómico La Luz district and its up-and-coming restaurants. Foodies who like to relax will appreciate this sanctuary and self-described ‘lunar complex’ for its lush gardens, hardwood floors and occasional pre-Columbian statues.
Hotel Posada del MuseoGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2258-1027; www.hotelposadadelmuseo.com; cnr Calle 17 & Av 2; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$40/51/65/79; iW)
Managed by an amiable, multilingual couple, this architecturally intriguing, 1928-vintage inn is diagonally across from the Museo Nacional. French doors line the entrances to each of the rooms, no two of which are alike. Some rooms accommodate up to four people, making this a family-friendly option. Light sleepers, take note: the hotel is adjacent to the train tracks.
Hemingway InnHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2257-8630; www.hemingwayinn.com; cnr Calle 9 & Av 9; incl breakfast s US$40-68, d US$57-85; W
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This family-owned, funky little spot in Barrio Amón offers 17 simple, comfortable and unique rooms in a rambling cafetalero (coffee growers) house dating back to the 1920s. The garden, shared kitchen and wall murals lend the inn a relaxed and friendly ambience, and room prices include a full made-to-order breakfast. As a rare perk, pets can be accommodated with prior notice.
Kaps PlaceGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-1169; www.kapsplace.com; Calle 19 btwn Avs 11 & 13; incl breakfast s US$35-45, d/tr US$55/65, apt US$100-140; piW)
On a residential street in Barrio Aranjuez, this homey guesthouse has 20 rooms of various configurations spread over two buildings. Guests have access to patios decorated in colorful mosaics, three shared kitchens, a games room with ping-pong, pool and foosball tables, a big-screen TV lounge with a huge DVD library, and free phone calls to 60 countries. Recently the owner opened Kaps Cafe, a lovely little eatery serving both guests and nonguests.
Hotel Fleur de LysHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2223-1206; www.hotelfleurdelys.com; Calle 13 btwn Avs 2 & 6; incl breakfast r from US$76, junior/master ste US$126/156; pniW)
Impeccably maintained, this century-old, bright-pink Victorian mansion houses 30 spotless wood-paneled rooms with firm beds, ceiling fans and wicker furnishings. A small onsite bar provides a welcome cocktail or smoothie, and on Fridays there is live music. The staff are attentive and the location central (note the proximity of the train tracks). German, French and English are spoken.
Hotel ColonialHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2223-0109; www.hotelcolonialcr.com; Calle 11 btwn Avs 2 & 6; s/d/ste incl breakfast US$71/82/110; paiWs)
An intricately carved baroque-style carriage door and an arched poolside promenade usher guests into this 1940s Spanish-style inn. The 16 rooms and one suite are either whitewashed or painted an earthy mustard yellow color, with dark wood furnishings and bright bedspreads. Those on higher floors have sweeping views of the city and outlying mountains, while three ground-level rooms are wheelchair-accessible.
Bells’ Home HospitalityHOMESTAY$$
(%2225-4752; www.homestay-thebells.com; s/d incl breakfast US$35/60, dinner US$10)
This recommended agency is run by the bilingual Marcela Bell, who has operated the business for more than 30 years. She can arrange stays in more than a dozen homes around San José, including her own. Each one has been personally inspected and they are all close to public transportation. Airport pickup is also available.
Hotel KekoldiHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2248-0804; www.kekoldi.com; Av 9 btwn Calles 5 & 7; r incl breakfast US$60-98; W)
This airy art-deco building in Barrio Amón has 10 high-ceilinged rooms of various sizes, painted in pastel shades and equipped with cable TV. The best ones face the street or backyard and are drenched in natural light; interior rooms are less appealing. Common spaces include a cheerful breakfast room and a garden for lounging, and bathrooms were recently updated.
Hotel Don CarlosHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-6707; www.doncarloshotel.com; Calle 9 btwn Avs 7 & 9; incl breakfast s/d US$79/90, ste s/d US$90/102; piWs)
Built around an early-20th-century house that once belonged to President Tomás Guardia, this welcoming Barrio Amón inn exudes a slightly campy colonial-era vibe. Its 32 rooms surround a faux-pre-Columbian sculpture garden with a sundeck and a small kiddie-depth pool. All rooms have a cable TV, a lockbox and a hairdryer; upstairs units are generally nicer than the mustier ones downstairs. Don’t miss the Spanish-tile mural, just outside the onsite restaurant, which beautifully depicts central San José in the 1930s.
La Rosa del PaseoBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2257-3225; http://larosadelpaseo.com; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 28 & 30; s/d/ste from US$70/80/90; piW) 
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Don’t let the Paseo Colón location and the small facade fool you: this sprawling Victorian-Caribbean mansion (built in 1910 by the coffee-exporting Montealegre family) has 18 spacious rooms reaching way back into an interior courtyard far from the city noise. The recently revamped hotel still maintains the original tile floors and other historic details, including antique oil paintings and sculptures. Rooms are simple, with polished-wood floors and period-style furnishings. There’s a wonderful front sitting room where guests can listen to vintage vinyl discs on the phonograph, and the garden, where breakfast is served each morning, is filled with heliconias and bougainvilleas.
oHotel PresidenteBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2010-0000, in USA 1-877-540-1790; www.hotel-presidente.com; Av Central; r US$100-189; paW) S
Recent revamping has turned this formerly drab hotel into a glorious boutique stay. The new lobby offers tons of inlaid brick and antique adornments, and a red spiral staircase leads to a rooftop garden and hip new cocktail bar. The central location remains ideal, as do the 71 well-appointed rooms, the best of which feature Jacuzzis and stunning city views.
The hotel’s rooftop cocktail bar is the talk of San José, with incredible city views and an exquisite garden.
SAN JOSÉ FOR KIDS
Chances are if you’re in Costa Rica on a short vacation you’ll be headed out to the countryside fairly quickly. But if for some reason you’re going to be hanging out in San José for a day – or two or three – with your kids, know that it’s not a particularly kid-friendly destination. There is lots of traffic and the sidewalks are crowded and cracked, making it difficult to push strollers or drag toddlers around. Although the city offers relatively few things specifically for children, here are a few activities they will likely enjoy.
Near Parque La Sabana, the Museo de Ciencias Naturales La Salle will impress youngsters with its astounding array of skeletons and endless cases full of stuffed animals, while the Museo de los Niños is a sure hit for children who just can’t keep their hands off the exhibits. Young nature-lovers will enjoy getting up close to butterflies at the Spirogyra Jardín de Mariposas or checking out the exotic animals at the Parque Zoológico Nacional Simón Bolívar. Just a little further afield (an easy day trip from San José) is the wonderful zoo and wildlife-rescue center Zoo Ave, where you can enjoy native birds and monkeys in a more naturalistic setting.
If you’re spending more than a week in the city, note that many Spanish-language academies offer special custom-made lessons for teens.
4La Sabana & Around
You’ll find everything from hostels to vintage B&Bs in the neighborhoods that surround Parque Metropolitano La Sabana.
Gaudy’sHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2248-0086; www.backpacker.co.cr; Av 5 btwn Calles 36 & 38; dm US$13, r with/without bathroom US$39/35; piW)
Popular among shoestring travelers for years, this homey hostel inside a sprawling modernist house northeast of Parque La Sabana has 13 private rooms and two dormitories. The owners keep the design scheme minimalist and the vibe mellow, with professional service and well-maintained rooms. There’s a communal kitchen, a TV lounge, a pool table and a courtyard strung with hammocks.
Mi Casa HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2231-4700; www.micasahostel.com; Las Américas; incl breakfast dm US$13, r with/without bathroom from US$38/35; piW)
This converted modernist home in La Sabana has polished-wood floors, vintage furnishings and over a dozen eclectic guest rooms to choose from, including one large dorm and another room that’s wheelchair-accessible. Mellow communal areas are comfortably furnished, and the shared kitchen is clean and roomy. There is a pleasant garden, a pool table, free internet, and a laundry service.
Colours Oasis ResortBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%2296-1880, in USA & Canada 866-517-4390; www.coloursoasis.com; cnr Triángulo de Pavas & Blvr Rohrmoser; r US$55-200; Ws)
This longtime LGBT-friendly hotel occupies a sprawling Key West–style complex in the elegant Rohrmoser district (northwest of La Sabana). Rooms and mini-apartments have modern furnishings and impeccable bathrooms. Facilities include a TV lounge, pool, sundeck and Jacuzzi, as well as an international restaurant, ideal for evening cocktails.
Apartotel La SabanaHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2220-2422; www.apartotel-lasabana.com; Calle 48; d/apt/f incl breakfast from US$85/101/141; paiWs)
This lovely and well-maintained apartment complex 150m north of Rostipollos has 32 units in various configurations that draw long-term business travelers as well as families. Apartments (with or without kitchen) are accented with wood furnishings and folk art. The interior courtyard has a nice pool, and free shuttle service is offered both from and to the airport.
oHotel Grano de OroBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro.com; Calle 30 btwn Avs 2 & 4; d US$197-372, ste US$390-593; pniW)
It’s easy to see why honeymooners love it here. Built around a sprawling early-20th-century Victorian mansion, this elegant inn has 39 demure ‘Tropical Victorian’ rooms furnished with wrought-iron beds and rich brocade linens. Some rooms boast private courtyards with gurgling fountains, and a rooftop garden terrace offers two bubbling Jacuzzis. The whole place sparkles with tropical flowers and polished-wood accents.
If you want to experience the Costa Rica of a gilded age, this is the place to do it. Also the restaurant is incredible.
4Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
Locals use several prominent landmarks when giving directions, including Spoon restaurant, the Fuente de la Hispanidad fountain and Más x Menos supermarket.
oHostel BekuoHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2234-1091, in USA 1-813-750-8572; www.hostelbekuo.com; Av 8; dm US$11-13, d from US$30; W)
For pure positive energy, you won’t find a nicer hostel in San José. This restful spot, in a hip area of Los Yoses just a block south of Av Central, feels extremely homey, thanks to frequent backyard BBQs, a living room with piano and guitar, and a kitchen equipped with good knives, appliances and an inviting work space.
The airy modernist structure has nine unique and colorful rooms with high-quality beds and mattresses (including four dormitories, one reserved especially for women), along with large tiled bathrooms, an expansive TV lounge dotted with beanbags, and an interior courtyard slung with hammocks. Well-traveled owner Brian Van Fleet and his staff go the extra mile for guests, with colorful and well-conceived information displays and evening outings designed to show visitors the best of San José’s nightlife. Yet this remains a place where you can get a good night’s sleep; quiet time is respected from 10:30pm onwards.
Hostel UrbanoHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2281-0707; www.hostelurbano.com; Calle 39; dm US$12, d with/without bathroom US$39/33)
Within easy walking distance of the university and its nightlife, yet right on the bus line into downtown San José, this immaculate hostel is in a 1950s home opposite Parque Kennedy in San Pedro. Guests feel instantly welcome, with its open floor plan, spacious backyard, pool table, modern internet facilities and a kitchen-dining area nice enough for a dinner party.
Smaller rooms, which are often rented out as private doubles, are also ideal for groups of three or four friends traveling together. Even the larger 12- and 16-bed dorms manage not to feel claustrophobic, thanks to the thoughtful placement of well-constructed modern bunks. The owners have also opened a small coffee shop next door and a second hostel in Los Yoses.
Hostel Casa YosesHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2234-5486; www.casayoses.hostel.com; Av 8, Los Yoses; incl breakfast dm US$10-15, d with/without bathroom US$38/33; piW)
A mellow place, this Spanish Revival–style house from 1949 is perched on a hill that offers lovely views of the valley from the front garden. Here you’ll find 10 rooms (three of them dorms) of varying decor and style, all of which are spotless, with wooden floors and tiled hallways. There is a shared kitchen, an attached bar, La Sospecha, with a pool table and foosball, and even an area for BBQs. The owners speak Spanish, English and French.
Hotel Ave del ParaísoHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2283-6017, 2225-8515; www.hotelavedelparaiso.com; Paseo de la Segunda Republica; s/d incl breakfast US$68/79; iW) S
Decorated with beautiful mosaic tiles, this hotel run by an artsy family is set back from the busy street just far enough to permit a good night’s sleep. There’s a wonderful restaurant and bar, Café Kracovia, owned by the same family. The university is just a two-minute walk east.
Hotel MilviaB&B$$
(%2225-4543; www.hotelmilvia.com; cnr Calle 75 & Av 1; s/d incl breakfast US$59/69; iW)
Owned by a well-known Costa Rican artist and former museum director, this lovely Caribbean-style building offers a homey retreat from the city. Nine eclectic rooms, all dotted with bright artwork, surround a pleasant courtyard with a trickling fountain. An upstairs terrace provides views of the mountains.
Hotel 1492 Jade y OroB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2280-6265, 2225-3752; www.hotel1492.com; Av 1 btwn Calles 29 & 33; r incl breakfast from US$50; pW)
On a quiet Barrio Escalante side street you’ll find this 10-room B&B in a Spanish-style house built in the 1940s by the Volio family. The rooms vary in size, but all are nicely accented, with Portuguese tile work and some original furnishings. Breakfast is served in a charming rear garden.
Hotel Le BergeracBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2234-7850; www.bergerachotel.com; Calle 35 btwn Avs Central & 8; d standard/superior/deluxe/grande incl breakfast US$109/132/160/177; piW)
This Los Yoses standard-bearer features 25 rooms, most with a private garden patio, in a whitewashed building tranquilly removed from the main street. Though sizes and configurations vary, all rooms are comfortable and sunny with wooden floors and floral bedspreads, and equipped with an immaculate bathroom, a cable TV, a telephone and a safe. The onsite restaurant has a bar.
TALK LIKE A TICO
San José is loaded with schools that offer Spanish lessons (either privately or in groups) and provide long-term visitors to the country with everything from dance lessons to volunteer opportunities. Well-established options include the following:
Costa Rican Language Academy (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2280-1685, in USA 866-230-6361; www.spanishandmore.com; Calle Ronda, Barrio Dent)
Institute for Central American Development Studies (ICADS; %2225-0508; www.icads.org; Calle 87A, Curridabat; month-long courses with/without homestay US$1990/915)
Personalized Spanish (%2278-3254, in USA 786-245-4124; www.personalizedspanish.com; Tres Ríos)
Already speak Spanish? To truly talk like a Tico, check out the Costa Rica Idioms app, available for iOS. It’s quite basic but defines local lingo and uses each term in a sentence. Tuanis, mae! (Cool, dude!)
4Escazú & Santa Ana
Escazú and Santa Ana are stylish suburbs with accommodations ranging from sleek boutique inns to homey B&Bs – but there’s not much in these parts for the budget traveler. Street addresses aren’t always given; call directly or check hotel websites for directions (which are invariably complicated).
Santa Ana is situated three kilometers west of Escazú, and on the road between the two you’ll find a few out-of-the-way spots to stay and eat.
Tiger’s DenB&B$
(%8667-3591, 4033-4632; www.tigersdenbnb.com; La Paco, San Rafael de Escazú; r US$35-50; aW)
This comfy B&B in residential Escazú is a quiet, homey escape run by Tiger, an attentive former nurse and personal trainer who makes art and cooks brilliantly (meals cost US$10). Guests here are frequently medical and dental tourists, and Tiger can cater to their diets. Prices drop for longer stays, and the host prefers a minimum three-night commitment. Ask Tiger for directions.
oStudio HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%2282-0505; www.costaricastudiohotel.com; 750m south of Fórum 1; r from $96; paWs)
This boutique stay wins for so many reasons: it’s comfy, close to good restaurants and the airport, reasonably priced and decked out in Costa Rican artwork. It also doubles as a gallery, with 90 works from some of the country’s greatest talents, including painter Francisco Amighetti. Guests can (and should) book art tours of the hotel ($15 per couple).
Posada El QuijoteB&B$$
(%2289-8401; www.quijote.cr; Calle del Llano; d standard/superior/deluxe/studio apt incl breakfast US$85/99/109/109; pnaW)
This Spanish-style hillside posada (guesthouse) in Bello Horizonte rates as one of the area’s top B&Bs. Homey standard rooms have wooden floors, throw rugs, cable TV and hot-water bathrooms; superior and deluxe units have a patio or a private terrace. Guests are invited to drink at the honor bar, then soak up sweeping Central Valley views on the patio. A backyard swing set and trampoline make this place especially fun for families with kids.
Costa Verde InnINN$$
(%2228-4080, in USA 1-800-773-5013; www.costaverdeinn.com; Av 34, Escazú; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$60/70/80, d apt from US$90; piWs)
This homey stone inn is surrounded by gardens that contain a hot tub, a mosaic-tiled swimming pool, a BBQ area and a sundeck with wi-fi. Sixteen rooms of various sizes have king-size beds, comfy rocking chairs and folk-art accents. Five apartments come with a fully equipped kitchen. A generous Tico breakfast is served on the outdoor terrace. Weekly rates are available.
Hotel Mirador Pico BlancoHOTEL$$
(%2289-6197; www.facebook.com/picoblancoinn; Calle Salitrillos; d standard/ste US$40/50; p)
A sleepy stone inn high in the hills, Pico Blanco is perched on a ridge 3km southeast of central Escazú. It has seen better days, but its 15 rooms are comfortable, with tile floors, cable TV and clean, if slightly worn, bathrooms. For the money, you won’t find more extravagant metropolitan views. A small onsite restaurant cooks up traditional meals.
Villa EscazúB&B$$
(%2289-7971; www.hotels.co.cr/villaescazu; Av 36; s/d incl breakfast US$49/55; pW)
This wooden chalet with a wraparound veranda is surrounded by gardens and fruit trees. The two quaint, wood-paneled rooms feature local artwork, comfy couches and a shared bathroom. Breakfast is served on the outdoor balcony. There’s a two-night minimum stay: reserve well in advance. It’s 900m west of Banco Nacional.
Out of BoundsB&B$$
(%2288-6762; www.bedandbreakfastcr.com; Car-retera John F Kennedy; d US$70-90; paW)
This friendly, contemporary inn 1km west of Costa Rica Country Club has seven simple rooms with blond-wood floors; large, comfortable beds; painted sinks with folk-art motifs; mini-refrigerators and in-room coffeemakers. Two units come with air-con and two are wheelchair accessible. A broad outdoor deck with pleasant views is stocked with rocking chairs for lounging.
Casa de las TíasB&B$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2289-5517; www.casadelastias.com; Av F Delgado; r US$102-136; pnW)
In a quiet area of San Rafael, this yellow-and-turquoise Cape Cod–style house (complete with picket fence) has five immaculate, individually decorated rooms, all with private bathrooms. The house is adorned with crafts that friendly, helpful owners Xavier and Pilar have picked up on their travels in Latin America, lending the place a cozy, intimate feel.
Hotel Alta Las PalomasHOTEL$$$
(%2282-4160, in USA 888-388-2582; www.thealtahotel.com; Carretera John F. Kennedy, btwn Santa Ana & Escazú; d/ste from US$203/277, per extra person US$20; paiWs)
This graceful Mediterranean-style villa has 23 whitewashed rooms decked out in terracotta tiles, contemporary wood furnishings and expansive bathrooms equipped with hair dryers and robes. Upstairs balconies offer stunning views of the surrounding hills, and the onsite restaurant, La Luz, serves up fresh Mediterranean fare in an elegant setting. An upstairs parlor often hosts classical music performances.
5Eating
From humble corner stands dishing out gut-filling casados (set meals) to contemporary bistros serving fusion everything, in cosmopolitan San José you’ll find the country’s best restaurant scene. Dedicated foodies should also check out the dining options in Los Yoses and San Pedro, as well as Escazú and Santa Ana.
Top-end restaurants are often busy on weekend evenings; make a reservation.
5Central San José
In downtown San José, long-standing neighborhood sodas (lunch counters) mix effortlessly with contemporary cafes and Asian-fusion eateries. One of the best places for a budget-priced lunch is the Mercado Central, where you’ll find a variety of sodas serving casados, tamales, seafood and everything in between.
oCafé de los DeseosCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-0496; www.facebook.com/Cafedelosdeseos; Calle 15 btwn Avs 9 & 11; mains US$5-12; h11:30am-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat; W)
Abuzz with artsy young bohemians, this colorful Barrio Otoya cafe makes a romantic spot for drinks (from wine to cocktails to smoothies), bocas (handmade tortillas with Turrialba cheese, salads, teriyaki chicken, individual pizzas), and tempting desserts. Walls are hung with the work of local artists and rooms are adorned with hand-painted tables, beaded curtains and branches entwined with fairy lights.
Maza BistroBISTRO$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2248-4824; www.facebook.com/MazaBistro/; Calle 19, on Parque Nacional; mains US$8, brunch US$10; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun; 
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At this charming, alfresco restaurant attached to Hostel Casa del Parque, brunch is served all day, with dishes like huevos pochados (a Latino version of eggs benedict) and braised beef shank au jus with pickled vegetables and a fried egg. The burgers combine three kinds of meat and are also a big hit, along with daily veggie options.
oCafé RojoCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-2425; cnr Av 7 & Calle 3; coffee US$1.50-4, mains US$7-10; hnoon-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri & Sat, noon-7pm Sun; v)
This quaint cafe with a cactus out front uses the fresh produce of Costa Rica to create innovative lunch specials, such as Vietnamese noodle bowls and sandwiches with pork meatballs or caramel chicken, and mind-blowingly delicious salads. Vegans will find plenty to like here, as will coffee enthusiasts. All the flavorings and syrups for drinks are homemade, and the iced ginger coffee is divine.
Restaurante La CriollitaCOSTA RICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-6511; Av 7 btwn Calles 7 & 9; breakfast from US$6, casados US$8-10; h6am-9pm)
This homey local spot, popular with office types, dishes out a changing menu of simple Costa Rican specialties, such as stewed chicken or grilled fish. The setting is pleasant and the service efficient, and you can order a glass of Chilean or Spanish wine (US$4) to accompany your meal.
Café MielCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/cafemielcostarica; Av 9 btwn Calle 11 & 13; coffee US$1-5, pastries US$2; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat)
This tiny cafe opened to such wild success in 2014 that the owners quickly opened two more nearby. What’s its secret? In addition to adorable and homey interiors, it’s the artisanal products from the cafes’ chefs and bakers. The mushroom empanadas are divine, as is the locally sourced coffee.
La Ventanita MerakiFAST FOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-8016; www.facebook.com/laventanitameraki; cnr Av 3 & Calle 21, in front of the train station; mains US$5-8; h11am-midnight Tue-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, noon-8pm Sun)
Ventanita means ‘little window’ in Spanish and Meraki means ‘artistry’ in Greek. Put them together and it’s an accurate moniker for this fusion hole-in-the-wall: a to-go window in front of downtown’s train station that serves innovative street food. Expect elaborate spins on typical fare, along with sandwiches like pumpkin butter cheese madness, and Twinkie frito (fried Twinkie) for dessert.
Café La ManchaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-5591; www.facebook.com/pg/cafelamancha; Steinvorth buildling, Calle 1; coffee US$3-5; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat)
Hidden away in a courtyard within the historic Steinvorth building, this new third-wave coffee shop is the passion project of a local photographer with a fondness for the golden bean. From cortado (espresso mixed with warm milk) to chemex, La Mancha offers all the latest in coffee technology and holds coffee-related workshops. The tranquil setting, replete with lovely photographs and plant life, is a welcome respite from the chaotic city streets.
Restaurante ShaktiVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-4475; cnr Av 8 & Calle 13; mains US$5-10; h7:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; v)
This informal neighborhood health-food outpost has simple, organic-focused cooking and freshly baked goods. Favorites include veggie burgers, along with various fish and chicken dishes, but most people come for the vegetarian plato del día (meal of the day) – only US$6 for soup, salad, main course and fruit drink (or US$8 with coffee and dessert thrown in)!
Alma de CaféCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2010-1119; www.teatronacional.go.cr/Cafeteria; Av 2 btwn Calles 3 & 5, Teatro Nacional; mains US$6-11; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun)
One of the most beautiful cafes in the city, this atmospheric spot evokes early-20th-century Vienna. In other words, it’s a perfect place to sip a cappuccino, enjoy a crepe or quiche and take in the lovely ceiling frescoes and rotating art exhibitions. The spiked coffee concoctions are an excellent midday indulgence.
TalentumCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Restaurante Tournant; %2256-6346; www.galeriatalentum.com; Av 11 btwn Calles 3 & 3A; lunch specials US$8-10; hgallery 11am-6pm Mon, to 7pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat; restaurant 11:30am-6pm Mon, to 10pm Tue-Fri, 1-10pm Sat)
This vibrant, quirky cultural space in a renovated mansion runs the gamut from cafe to art gallery. Sporting local artwork inside and out, with cozy seating on vintage couches and an outdoor deck, it’s a fun place for a midday break. The ever-changing cultural agenda includes book signings, films, anatomical drawing classes and occasional live music.
Café Té RíaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-8272; www.facebook.com/CafeTeRiaenAmon; cnr Av 7 & Calle 13; mains US$6, cakes US$1.50-3; h10:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, noon-7:30 Sat; Wv#)
This petite, pet-friendly cafe in Barrio Amón is adorned with local art and replete with homey goodness. It’s a perfect place to work over a few cups of morning coffee, then stay for a fresh salad, delicious sandwiches or a mouthwatering pastry. Vegetarians are well served.
Café del BaristaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-4712; www.cafedelbarista.com; Av 9 btwn Calles 19 & 21; buffet lunch US$8; h7am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat)
This corrugated-roofed, warehouse-like space in Barrio Aranjuez brews up a great cup of gourmet coffee (and makes a halfway decent cinnamon roll too). During the week, there’s a delicious buffet lunch from 11am to 1:30pm.
Café MundoITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-6190; cnr Av 9 & Calle 15; mains US$8-36; h11am-10:30pm Mon-Fri, 5-11:30pm Sat; v)
This longtime Italian cafe and expat favorite is set on a sprawling terrace in a vintage Barrio Otoya mansion. It’s a perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine and good (if not earth-shattering) pizzas and pastas within sight of a splashing outdoor fountain. Don’t miss the good-value plato del día (US$8) at lunchtime on weekdays.
KulaCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8583-0786; cnr Calle 15 & Av 7; mains $7-12; h10:45am-5:45pm)
This sunny yellow cafe is newly perched in a second-story space, its plant-draped windows framing a particularly scenic corner of Barrio Amón. The food is fresh and inventive; highlights include a pejibaye (peach palm fruit) and heart of palm salad, and mouthwatering arepas filled with mushrooms and cheese. Don’t miss the churro truffles for dessert.
El Patio del BalmoralINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-5022; www.balmoral.co.cr; Av Central btwn Calles 7 & 9; mains US$8-27; hrestaurant 6am-10pm; terrace bar 4-10pm Mon-Thu, to 11pm Fri & Sat)
Filled with chattering gringos and suited Ticos, this all-purpose cafe-restaurant is a good place to chill out while taking in the pedestrian action on Av Central. Bonus: on sunny days the restaurant opens its retractable roof. The upstairs terrace bar hosts live bands on Tuesday through Friday nights.
Alma de AmónLATIN AMERICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-3232; www.facebook.com/AlmadeAmon/; Calle 5 btwn Avs 9 & 11; small plates US$6-9, large plates US$10-18; h6am-10pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu-Sat, 6-11am Sun)
With dishes from nearly a dozen Latin countries and considerable Caribbean influence, this restaurant is a solid option in Barrio Amón. Popular menu items include mofongo (a Puerto Rican dish with fried plantains) and coxinhas (Brazilian croquettes with chicken). The bartender shakes up spicy and delicious cocktails; El Chapulin has tequila, ginger beer, lime and sugar-cane syrup.
Q CaféCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %4056-5604; 2nd fl, cnr Av Central & Calle 2; mains US$8-20; h7am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-8pm Sat, 9am-7pm Sun)
A sleek, monochromatic cafe with excellent views of the ornate Correo Central building, this modern 2nd-floor spot near the heart of San José’s pedestrian zone is perfect for coffee drinks (including delicious iced mochas) and pastries. Try the empanadas, which go well with the cafe’s homemade hot sauce.
Kaps CafeCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-1169; www.kapsplace.com; Calle 19 btwn Avs 11 & 13; mains US$7-15; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7-10am Sun; W)
A lovely little eatery linked to the eponymous hostel, with yummy coffee plus creative pastries and sandwiches. Especially great carrot cake.
oLa Esquina de Buenos AiresARGENTINE$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2223-1909; www.laesquinadebuenosaires.com; cnr Calle 11 & Av 4; mains US$15-29; h11:30am-3pm & 6-10:30pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-11pm Fri, 12:30pm-11pm Sat, noon-10pm Sun; v)
White linens and the sound of old tango evoke the atmospheric bistros of San Telmo, as does the menu, featuring grilled Argentine cuts of steak, house-made empanadas and an extensive selection of fresh pastas in exquisite sauces. The excellent South American–centric wine list and attentive service make this an ideal place for a date. Reservations recommended.
La TerrasseFRENCH$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8939-8470; chef.patricia.frenchcuisine@gmail.com; Calle 15 btwn Avs 9 & 11; mains US$17-32)
Hidden away in the living room of a 1925 Barrio Otoya home, this intimate French restaurant regularly welcomes well-heeled locals with something to celebrate. Gracious Gerald plays host while his wife, the talented chef Patricia, reveals her fine sensibilities in thick, creamy soups and cheeses, hearty meat dishes and imaginative presentation. Order French wine and a few dishes to share.
Tin JoASIAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-7605; www.tinjo.com; Calle 11 btwn Avs 6 & 8; mains US$11-19; h11:30am-2:30pm & 6-10pm Mon-Thu, 11:30am-2:30pm & 6-11pm Fri, noon-3:30pm & 6-11pm Sat, noon-9pm Sun; v)
The interiors of this popular Asian standard-bearer are a riot of pan-Asian everything, just like the menu. Expect a wide range of fare from various regions – from kung pao shrimp to crunchy shrimp rolls to pad thai – as well as an extensive vegetarian menu.
5La Sabana & Around
There’s a good mix of upscale international cuisine and fast food around the park. Supermarkets include Más X Menos (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2248-1396; www.masxmenos.co.cr; cnr Autopista General Cañas & Av 5; h7am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; p) and Palí (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-5887; www.pali.co.cr; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 24 & 26; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8:30am-6pm Sun; p).
Soda TapiaSODA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-6734; www.sodatapia.com; cnr Av 2 & Calle 42; mains US$4-10, desserts US$2-7; h6am-2am Sun-Thu, 24hr Fri & Sat; pc)
An unpretentious ’50s-style diner with garish red-and-white decor, this place is perpetually filled with couples and families noshing on grilled sandwiches and generous casados. If you have the nerve, try the monstrous ‘El Gordo,’ a pile of steak or chicken, onions, cheese, lettuce and tomato served on Spanish bread. Save room for dessert: ice-cream and fruit sundaes are the specialty.
La Sorbetera de Lolo MoraDESSERTS$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-5000; Mercado Central; desserts US$2-5; h9:30am-5:45pm Mon-Sat)
Head to the main market for this century-old local favorite that serves up fresh sorbet and cinnamon-laced frozen custard. Do as the locals do and order barquillos (cylindrical sugar cookies that are perfect for dipping).
Mariscos PoseidonSEAFOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-8589; Mercado Central Annex; mains US$5-12; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)
The congenial Doris runs this narrow, blue-and-yellow seafood joint in the central market’s northern wing. The ceviche mixto appetizer (fish, shrimp and octopus marinated in lime juice) is tasty and cheap, as are the generous portions of seafood-studded rice.
LubnanLEBANESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2257-6071; www.facebook.com/lubnancr; Paseo Colón btwn Calles 22 & 24; mains US$8-25; h11am-3pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Fri, noon-4pm & 6pm-midnight Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; p)
This atmospheric Lebanese place is a great date spot, with creamy hummus, flavorful tabbouleh and an array of succulent meats – some cooked, some deliciously raw. Waiters wear fezzes and a live belly-dancing performance goes down every Thursday at 8:30pm. DJs perform on Saturday nights.
Machu PicchuPERUVIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-7384; Calle 32 btwn Avs 1 & 3; mains US$9-22; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 6pm Sun; pWc)
This locally renowned Peruvian restaurant does Andean right. A popular spot for a leisurely Sunday lunch, it has an encyclopedic menu featuring Peruvian classics such as pulpo al olivo (octopus in olive sauce), ají de gallina (a nutty chicken stew) and causa (chilled potato terrines stuffed with shrimp and avocado). The pisco sours here are deliciously powerful.
Las MañanitasMEXICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2248-1593; Calle 40 btwn Paseo Colón & Av 3; mains US$6-17; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Sat)
At this authentic Mexican place near the park, well-rendered specialties include tacos in sets of four – corn tortillas accompanied by chicken, steak, sea bass or carne al pastor (spiced pork). Fans of mole poblano (central Mexico’s famous chili and chocolate sauce) will also want to try it here, as the restaurant’s owner hails from Puebla.
oPark CaféEUROPEAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2290-6324; www.parkcafecostarica.blogspot.com; Calle 48; tapas US$6-12, mains US$17-35; h5-9:15pm Tue-Sat)
At this felicitous fusion of antique shop and French restaurant, Michelin-starred chef Richard Neat offers an exquisite menu of smaller sampling plates (Spanish tapas–style), normal-sized mains, and a thoughtful wine list. The romantic candlelit courtyard is eclectically decorated with Asian antiques imported by Neat’s partner, Louise France. It’s near Parque La Sabana’s northeast corner (100m north of Rostipollos restaurant).
The tantalizing menu includes classic flavor combinations – carpaccio of beef with mustard dressing – alongside innovative offerings such as crab ravioli with asparagus and ginger cappuccino, crispy leg of duck with cucumber-mint salad or Gorgonzola gnocchi with prune-stuffed pork fillet, all prepared with passion and flair by Neat himself. An eight-table limit enhances the intimate atmosphere.
Restaurante Grano de OroFUSION$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro.com; Calle 30 btwn Avs 2 & 4; lunch mains US$15-29, dinner mains US$19-42; h7am-10pm)
Known for its Costa Rican–fusion cuisine, this stately, flower-filled restaurant is one of San José’s top dining destinations. The menu features unique specialties such as sea bass breaded with toasted macadamia nuts or seared duck crowned with caramelized figs, and there’s an encyclopedic international wine list. For dessert, don’t miss the coffee cream mousse. Dinner reservations recommended.
5Los Yoses, Barrio Escalante & San Pedro
Succulent Turkish sandwiches, Caribbean-style rondón (seafood gumbo), wood-fired pizzas – you can find every type of cuisine imaginable in this corner of the city. Just north of Los Yoses, Calles 33 and 35 in Barrio Escalante are prime foodie destinations, boasting several fine restaurants within a few city blocks.
Mantras Veggie Cafe and Tea HouseVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2253-6715; www.facebook.com/mantrasveggiecafe; Calle 35 btwn Avs 11 & 13; mains US$8-10; h8:30am-5pm; v)
Widely recognized as the best vegetarian restaurant in San José (if not all of Costa Rica), Mantras draws rave reviews from across the foodie spectrum for meatless main dishes, salads and desserts so delicious that it’s easy to forget you’re eating healthily. It’s in Barrio Escalante, and there’s a great brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.
Café KracoviaCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2253-9093; www.cafekracovia.com; Paseo del la Segunda Republica; snacks US$4-10, mains US$8-14; h10:30am-9pm Mon, to 11pm Tue-Sat; W)
With several distinct spaces, from the low-lit, intimate downstairs to the outdoor garden courtyard, this hip cafe has something for everyone. Contemporary artwork and a university vibe create an appealing ambience for lunching on crepes, wraps, salads, Polish food and craft beer. It’s 500m north of the Fuente de la Hispanidad traffic circle, where San Pedro and Los Yoses converge.
oOlioMEDITERRANEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2281-0541; www.facebook.com/Restaurante.olio; cnr Calle 33 & Av 3; tapas from US$7, dishes US$12-22; h11:30am-11pm Mon-Wed, to midnight Thu & Fri, 6pm-midnight Sat; v)
This cozy, Mediterranean-flavored gastropub in a century-old brick building in Barrio Escalante serves a long list of tempting tapas, including divine stuffed mushrooms, goat-cheese croquettes and pastas. The enticing drinks list includes homemade sangria and a decent selection of beers and wine. It’s a romantic spot for a date, with imaginative, conversation-worthy quirks of decor and beautiful patrons.
oRávi GastropubGASTROPUB$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2253-3771; www.facebook.com/ravicostarica; cnr Calle 33 & Av 5; mains US$9-18; hnoon-11pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
This cool corner pub in Barrio Escalante is awash in bright murals, with seating in cushy blue booths, intimate back rooms or on the convivial bar stools up front. A menu of bocas, sandwiches, pizzas and more is served with craft brew on tap and homemade fruit sodas served in cute little bell jars.
At lunchtime, pick from the rotating menu of appetizers and main dishes and throw in a homemade soda, all for US$10.
Sofia MediterráneoMEDITERRANEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2224-5050; www.facebook.com/SofiaMediterraneo; cnr Calle 33 & Av 1; mains US$8-22; h6-11pm Tue-Fri, noon-11pm Sat, noon-5pm & 6:30-9pm Sun; v)
This Barrio Escalante gem serves a superb mix of authentic Mediterranean specialties, including house-made hummus, tortellini, grilled lamb and a rotating selection of daily specials, accompanied by sweet, delicate baklava for dessert. The restaurant doubles as a community cultural center where owner Mehmet Onuralp hosts occasional themed dinners featuring musicians, chefs and speakers from around the world.
Al MercatGASTRONOMY$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-0783; http://almercat.com; Av 13, Barrio Escalante; US$8-25; hnoon-5pm Tue & Wed, noon-5pm & 6:30-10pm Thu-Sat, noon-3pm Sun; v)
This exquisite Barrio Escalante restaurant serves whatever is fresh from the market. Family-style dishes of corn and sweet potato chalupas or grilled vegetables with smoked chese are fresh and flavorful, and although vegetarians are well served, meat eaters will appreciate the fine cuts of meat. The service here is impeccable and the atmosphere is enlivened by vertical gardens.
More recently, the chef has added smaller and less expensive plates to the menu, such as tacos and ceviche.
El BuhoVEGETARIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2224-6293; www.facebook.com/ElBuhoVegetariano; Av 5, 25m east of Calle 3; mains US$10-18; h11:30am-8pm Mon-Fri; v)
Drawing health-food devotees from the nearby university and further afield, this buzzing San Pedro eatery just off Calle de la Amargura serves a variety of vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free treats, from eggplant croquettes to stir-fries, and mushroom casseroles to passion-fruit cookies.
El Portón RojoPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2224-4872; www.facebook.com/PizzaElPortonRojo; cnr Av 10 & Calle 43; pizzas small US$8-10, large US$16-18; hnoon-3pm & 5:30-11pm Tue-Sat, 5:30pm-11pm Mon, noon-5pm Sun)
Serving up some of the best pizza and sangria in the Los Yoses area, this hip restaurant doubles as a gallery. Funky local art sells right off the brick walls, and a steady influx of customers from Hostel Bekuo keeps things lively.
Restaurant WhapinCARIBBEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2283-1480; cnr Calle 35 & Av 13; mains US$10-28; h11am-9pm)
For a taste of the Caribbean without leaving San José, try this corner spot in Barrio Escalante painted Rasta red, yellow and green. Steamy bowls of rondón (seafood gumbo), rice and red beans, and fish simmered in spicy coconut sauce go well with agua de sapo, a zesty sweet ginger drink. Don’t forget the fried plantains and seasonal crisp breadfruit.
Kalú Café & Food ShopINTERNATIONAL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2253-8426, 2253-8367; www.kalu.co.cr; cnr Calle 31 & Av 5; mains US$15-21; hnoon-10pm Tue-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 9am-4pm Sun; v)
Sharing a sleek space with Kiosco SJO in Barrio Escalante, chef Camille Ratton’s exceptional cafe serves a global fusion menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, pastas and unconventional delights such as the fish taco trio filled with mango-glazed salmon, red-curry prawns and macadamia-crusted tuna. Don’t miss the mind-meltingly delicious passion-fruit pie.
Lolo’sPIZZA$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2283-9627; pizzas US$14-24; h6pm-midnight Mon-Sat)
Fans of bohemian chic will appreciate this quirky pizzeria, hidden in a mustard-yellow house (No 3396) along the railroad tracks north of Av Central in Barrio Escalante. The vibrantly colorful, low-lit interior, hung with an eclectic collection of plates and other knickknacks, creates an artsy, romantic setting for sangria and pizzas fired up in the bright-red oven out back.
5Escazú & Santa Ana
These two suburbs are home to a great many upmarket restaurants, as well as some fine farmers’ markets and plenty of gourmet grocery stores, including Automercado (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2588-1812; Atlantis Plaza, Calle Cortés, San Rafael de Escazú; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-9pm Sun), Más X Menos (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2228-2230; Centro Comercial Escazú, Carretera John F Kennedy, San Rafael; h6:30am-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun) and Supermercado Saretto (%2228-0247; www.saretto.cr; Av Central, San Rafael; h8am-9pm).
Buena TierraCAFETERIA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2288-0342; www.facebook.com/CafeOrganicoBuenaTierra; cnr Calle 134 & Av 34; mains US$6-8; h9am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat; v)
With tree-trunk tabletops and huge windows, this friendly organic cafe and health-food store in Escazú Centro is a good place to detox. The sandwiches are sublime and coffee is delicious. The cafe also organizes a Wednesday-morning organic farmers market (8am to 11am).
Chez ChristopheBAKERY$
(%2228-2512; Calle Convento; pastries US$2-5; h7am-7pm Tue-Sat, 8am-5pm Sun)
If you have a hankering for a coffee éclair, croque monsieur or plain (but transcendent) croissant, linger here. French tostadas are reserved for Sunday, but every other day this authentic French bakery offers freshly baked breads and pastries, as well as espresso and a full breakfast and lunch menu. It’s just south of Centro Comerical El Paco in San Rafael.
oMaxi’s By RickyCARIBBEAN$$
(%2282-8619; Calle San Rafael, Santa Ana; appetizers US$1.50-8, mains US$9-30; hnoon-midnight)
If you can’t get to the Caribbean coast, this restaurant is a good substitute. Manzanillo native Ricky transported his lip-smacking restaurant to the Central Valley in 2014 and everybody started showing up to feast on the traditional rice-n-beans, Caribbean chicken and rondón soup. The latest addition to the menu: small plates, so everybody can try a little of everything. Delish! It’s tricky to find: ask locally for directions.
oCocina EclecticaINTERNATIONAL$$
(%8529-2509; www.facebook.com/CocinaEclecTicaEscazu/; Trejos Montealegre, Escazú; meal US$12-20; hnoon-8pm)
The Escazú residence of Joanna Stein, identifiable only by a small ‘J’ on the door, might not seem like a restaurant. In fact it’s much more. All day long, dressed in an apron and inked with dozens of tattoos, the self-taught cook pirouettes around her well-stocked kitchen preparing her personal vision of haute cuisine with local produce and exotic ingredients. When guests arrive, she works out their dietary needs and desires, considers what’s available and inspiring, and commences her labor of love. Our visit involved a soul-warming soup of cardamom, carrot and quinoa, delicious home-cured trout ceviche, and hearty chicken chicharrón with pear butter and fried potatoes. Dessert was homemade passion-fruit ice cream. The experience cost just US$12. Joanna also rents rooms in her lovely abode for US$20 to US$35 a night.
Saúl BistroMEDITERRANEAN$$
(%2228-8685; www.facebook.com/SaulBistroCostaRica; Calle Real; appetizers US$10-16, mains US$11-25; h7am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)
There are life-sized plastic zebras in the dining room at this snazzy open-air restaurant that appeared (and became a sensation) in 2015. An extension of Saúl Mendez, the Guatemala-based empire of men’s fashion, the restaurant is adorned with curious art, bubbling fountains and vertical gardens, and it serves delicious Mediterranean cuisine, savory crepes, fine wine and exquisite cocktails. It’s quite the scene; recently a newer location opened in fabulous Barrio Escalante.
Container PlatzGASTRONOMY$$
(%6050-1045; www.facebook.com/ContainerPlatz; Calle 5, Santa Ana; mains $6-15; h11:30am-10pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri & Sat, 11am-8pm Sun)
In this recently launched gastronomic experiment, about a dozen mini-businesses have sprung to life in brightly painted shipping containers in Santa Ana. The effort earns high marks for innovation and reasonably priced, artisanal fast-food, with everything from a circus-themed nacho place to a churros factory and a ‘hummuseria’ that serves delectable pita triangles with its homemade hummus. Communal picnic tables foster a sense of camaraderie, as does the craft-beer container.
La Posada de las BrujasCOSTA RICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2228-1645; off Av 30, btwn Calles San Miguel & 128, Escazú; mains US$6-24; h11am-midnight Tue-Sat, to 10pm Sun; pc)
This open-air steak house is Escazú’s finest family option. Spacious indoor and outdoor seating accommodates large groups, and big eaters are well served with heaping plates of rice, beans, fried plantains and a meat of their choice. An onsite menagerie (think goats, rabbits, a donkey and tropical birds) and two trampolines will be big hits with kids.
Casona de LalyCOSTA RICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2288-1507; cnr Av 26 & Calle 1, Escazú; US$7-34; h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun; p)
This Escazú staple recently reopened with a fresh new look but exactly the same delicious Costa Rican menu that everybody has always showed up for, including hearty casados, grilled meats and luscious seafood soup. There’s now a light-up sign outside, along with a small parking lot, a bunch of flat-screens and a small bar in the corner.
Three other Lalys have opened in neighboring suburbs, but this original location remains the favorite.
Nuestra TierraCOSTA RICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2258-6500; cnr Av 2 & Calle 15, Escazú; mains US$6-22; h6am-midnight; c)
Touristy but fun, this bustling eatery maintains a calculatedly rustic atmosphere, with picnic-style tables, mounted bull’s heads and strings of metal cups dangling from the rafters. Cheery waiters deliver well-prepared if pricey Tico food, from tasty pork tamales to wooden platters piled with heaping casados. A fine spot for lunch and sangria after a visit to the nearby museums.
TiquiciaCOSTA RICAN$$
(%2289-7330; Calle Cuesta Grande, Escazú; bocas US$5-17, mains US$13-23; hnoon-11pm Tue-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, to 9pm Sun)
This long-running hilltop restaurant 5km south of Escazú Centro serves up bounteous platters, accompanied by live folk music on weekends. Yes, the food is only so-so, but you’re not here to eat, you’re here to admire the extravagant views of the Central Valley. It’s tricky to find; call for directions.
alTapas BarTAPAS$$
(%2282-4871; www.facebook.com/tapeandorico/; Radial Santa Ana, 150m north of the Red Cross, Santa Ana; tapas $10-25; hnoon-2am Wed-Sat, to 11pm Sun; W)
Owned by four brothers, this Spanish tapas restaurant is over-the-top hospitable, offering guests a complimentary glass of cava (sparkling Catalonian wine) and a flavorful mini-croquette at the start of the meal, best followed by dishes such as local oysters, octopus in garlic and expertly prepared paella. The decor is austere but classy, with a large wooden bar dominating the space.
GAY & LESBIAN VENUES
The city is home to Central America’s most thriving gay and lesbian scene. As with other spots, admission charges vary depending on the night and location (from US$5 to US$10). Some clubs close on various nights of the week (usually Sunday to Tuesday) and others host women- or men-only nights; inquire ahead or check individual club websites for listings. Many clubs are on the south side of town, which can get rough after dark. Take a taxi.
La Avispa (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2223-5343; www.laavispa.com; Calle 1 btwn Avs 8 & 10; h8pm-6am Thu-Sat, 5pm-6am Sun) A lesbian disco bar that has been in operation for more than three decades, La Avispa (the Wasp) has a bar, pool tables and a boisterous dance floor that’s highly recommended by travelers.
BO Club (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2221-0500; cnr Calle 11 & Av 10; h8pm-6am Fri & Sat) A club that features everything from classic disco to electronica, as well as special themed nights. It’s on the south side of town.
Pucho’s Bar (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2256-1147; cnr Calle 11 & Av 8; h8pm-2am Tue-Sat) This gay male outpost is more low-rent (and significantly raunchier) than some; it features scantily clad go-go boys and over-the-top drag shows.