Central Valley & Highlands
Alajuela & the Northern Valley
Alajuela
Parque Nacional Volcán Poás
Atenas
Grecia
Sarchí
Zarcero
Bajos del Toro
San Ramón
Heredia Area
Heredia
Barva
San Isidro de Heredia
Cartago Area
Cartago
Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú
Valle de Orosi
Turrialba Area
Turrialba
Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo
Central Valley & Highlands
Why Go?
It is on the nontouristy, coffee-cultivated hillsides of the Central Valley that you’ll find Costa Rica’s heart and soul. This is not only the geographical center of the country but also its cultural and spiritual core. It is here that the Spanish first settled, here that coffee built a prosperous nation, here that picturesque highland villages still gather for centuries-old fiestas. It is also here that you’ll get to fully appreciate Costa Rica’s country cooking: artisanal cheeses, steamy corn cakes and freshly caught river trout.
Curvy mountain roads force travelers to slow their pace. Quaint and quirky agricultural towns invite leisurely detours to farmers markets and church processions, a refreshing break from the tourist-industrial complex on the coasts. But it’s not all cows and coffee – world-class rapids, resplendent quetzals and close encounters with active volcanoes all show off the rich landscape in which Costa Rica’s character is rooted.
When to Go
A During high season (December to March), the region’s elevated altitude and landlocked location mean perfect weather.
A Afternoon showers are not uncommon during ‘green’ season (June to December), but so too are bargains.
A The rainy months (June to October) are great for white-water rafting.
Best Places to Stay
Central Valley & Highlands Highlights
1 Río Pacuare Paddling down the cascading rapids near Turrialba.
2 Volcán Irazú Peering into the crater and walking around its edge.
3 San Isidro de Heredia Learning the history of chocolate, stuffing your belly with goodness, and meeting rescued toucans and sloths.
4 Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo Contemplating the aqueducts and petroglyphs at Costa Rica’s largest archaeological site.
5 Valle de Orosi Exploring the wilderness, culture and coffee fincas.
6 Bajos del Toro Birdwatching beside a rushing river or hiking to waterfalls.
7 Zarcero Winding along scenic mountain roads to the home of trippy topiary and organic farming.
8 Ujarrás Sharing a lazy Sunday afternoon in the park with Tico families beside the ruins of a 17th-century church.
9 Atenas Relaxing by the square and breathing the clean mountain air.
History
As in other parts of the country, there is little in the historical record about the ethnicities that inhabited the Central Valley prior to the arrival of the Spanish. What is known is that the people of the area – largely the Huetar – practiced an animist religion, produced stone sculptures and clay pottery, and communicated in a Chibchan dialect that is now extinct. They also developed and maintained the ancient highland city of Guayabo, which is today the biggest and most significant pre-Columbian archaeological site in the country.
European settlement in Costa Rica did not begin in earnest until 1563, when Juan Vázquez de Coronado founded the colonial capital of Cartago – what is today Costa Rica’s oldest Spanish city. Over the next two centuries, Spanish communities would pop up in Heredia, San José and Orosi. Throughout this period, however, the area remained a colonial backwater, a checkerboard of Spanish farming communities, and indios bravos (fierce Indians) who had not come under colonial dominion and who practiced a largely itinerant agriculture.
It was only after independence, in the 1830s, that the area began to prosper with the expanded cultivation of coffee. The grano de oro (golden bean) transformed the country, providing the revenue to invest in urban infrastructure such as electricity and pavements, not to mention many baronial mansions. Coffee has since been overtaken as a key agricultural export by pineapples and bananas, but its legacy lives on, reflected in the culture, architecture and traditions of many highland towns.
8Getting There & Away
While all of the towns in this area are connected by regular buses, renting a 4WD makes sense if you want to explore the many worthwhile hard-to-reach corners, and some smaller dirt roads are inaccessible by bus.
Locals occasionally wave down passing cars. If you want to hitchhike yourself, beware that there are risks, and always offer to help with gas costs.
Alajuela & the Northern Valley
Volcanoes shrouded in mist, undulating coffee fincas (plantations), bustling agricultural centers: the area around the provincial capital of Alajuela, 18km northwest of San José, has it all – including Juan Santamaría International Airport, just 3km outside the city. Its proximity to the airport makes this area a highly convenient transit point if you are entering or leaving the country here, with the chance to see some major sights in Costa Rica.
Alajuela
POP 42,975
Alajuela is home to one of the country’s most famous figures: Juan Santamaría, the humble drummer boy who died putting an end to William Walker’s campaign to turn Central America into slaving territory in the Battle of Rivas in 1856. Now it’s a busy agricultural hub where farmers bring their products to market.
Costa Rica’s second city is by no means a tourist ‘destination.’ Much of the architecture is unremarkable, the streets are often crowded and there isn’t a lot to see. But it’s an inherently Costa Rican city, and in its more relaxed moments it reveals itself as such – a place where families have leisurely Sunday lunches and teenagers steal kisses in the park. With plenty of amenities, shops, restaurants, supermarkets and banks, it makes an excellent base from which to explore the countryside to the north.
Alajuela
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
5Eating
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
1Sights
Museo Histórico Cultural Juan SantamaríaMUSEUM
(
%2441-4775; www.museojuansantamaria.go.cr; Av 1 btwn Calles Central & 2; 
h10am-5:30pm Tue-Sun) 
F
Situated in a century-old structure that has served as both jail and armory, this museum chronicles Costa Rican history from early European settlement through the 19th century, with special emphasis on the life and history of Juan Santamaría and the pivotal mid-1850s battles of Santa Rosa, Sardinal and Rivas. Exhibits include videos, vintage maps, paintings and historical artifacts related to the conflict that ultimately safeguarded Costa Rica’s independence.
2Activities
Ojo de Agua SpringsWATER PARK
(%2441-0655; www.facebook.com/ojodeaguacr; US$2.70, under 3yr free; h7:30am-4:30pm; 
c)
About 6km south of Alajuela, this kitsch water park is packed with local families on weekends. Approximately 20,000L of water gushes from the spring every minute, powering a small waterfall and filling various pools (including an Olympic-size lap pool complete with diving tower) and an artificial boating lake. It’s a seven-minute drive south of San Jose airport, just off Rte 111.
CCourses
IntensaLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2442-3843, in USA & Canada 866-277-1352; www.intensa.com; 1 week without/with homestay US$355/520; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri)
Schools in Alajuela and Heredia teach everything from medical to business Spanish. One week of classes includes four lessons of an hour each per day. Prices drop when students study for longer periods.
zFestivals & Events
Juan Santamaría DayCULTURAL
(hApr)
The town that gave birth to a poor drummer boy named Juan Santamaría – who helped defeat the US in the Battle of Rivas – erupts in celebration on the victorious anniversary (April 11). This momentous occasion is commemorated with civic events, including a parade and lots of firecrackers.
4Sleeping
Alajuela is so close to the international airport that most hotels and B&Bs arrange airport transfers for a small fee (or for free). If you’re driving your own car, note that many places in the center don’t have parking, but guarded lots are available. Street noise is a fact of life. A few budget hotels also offer dorm rooms. All top-end hotels accept credit cards, as do most midrange places.
Alajuela Backpackers Boutique HostelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2441-7149; www.alajuelabackpackers.com; cnr Av 4 & Calle 4; dm/r/ste US$19/55/70; 
a
i
W)
This four-story place with cookie-cutter rooms may feel a tad institutional at first glance, but dig deeper and you’ll discover some big pluses: free shuttles to and from the airport, air-conditioned dorms and doubles with en suite bathrooms, and a super-cool 4th-floor bar terrace where you can sip beers while watching planes take off in the distance.
Hostel MalekuHOSTEL$
(%2430-4304; incl breakfast dm US$15, s/d without bathroom US$25/38; iW)
This super-friendly, family-run backpackers’ abode has five spick-and-span fan-cooled rooms tucked into a vintage home between the airport and downtown Alajuela (opposite Hospital San Rafael). There’s a communal kitchen, plus free storage for items brought from home that you don’t need while in Costa Rica (winter coats, bike boxes).
A free airport drop-off service is available hourly between 5am and 5pm.
Villa PacandéGUESTHOUSE$
(%2441-6795; www.villapacande.com; incl breakfast s/d/tr/q from US$35/40/50/65; 
piW
#) 
S
Located 3km north of Alajuela center, on the road to Volcán Poás, this Spanish-style home is set in gorgeous grounds festooned with blooms and buzzing with hummingbirds. The nine rooms are simple and comfortable, some offering a lovely view of the garden. This is a perfect choice for your first or last night if you’re not interested in exploring Alajuela.
The hotel recently opened a restaurant serving Spanish cuisine, plus sandwiches and pastas.
Casa Antigua HotelGUESTHOUSE$$
(%2441-1024, in USA 213-283-6287; www.casaantiguahotelcr.com; r incl breakfast from US$53; W)
Set in tropical gardens and replete with intricate woodwork, hand-painted floor tiles and quirky art, this 12-room guesthouse lures travelers with its proximity to the airport. Even more of a draw, though, is kind-hearted and effusively philosophical owner Hamid, who cooks up delicious Persian meals and offers parking for nonguests (US$7 per day). The hotel’s 500m east of Fiesta Casino.
Hotel Los VolcanesGUESTHOUSE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2441-0525; www.hotellosvolcanes.com; Av 3 btwn Calles Central & 2; incl breakfast s/d US$49/62, with air-con US$62/72, without bathroom US$35/46; p
naiW)
Tranquil and centrally located, this welcoming place in a refurbished 1920s mansion has 15 rooms, from vintage units with period-style furniture and clean shared bathrooms to contemporary rooms with flat-screen TV, air-con and safe. There’s an enjoyable courtyard in the back, complete with gurgling fountain. The helpful owners arrange a free airport drop-off at the end of your stay.
Hotel PacandéB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2443-8481; www.hotelpacande.com; Av 5 btwn Calles 2 & 4; incl breakfast r US$55-65, without bathroom US$40; iW)
This popular, locally run option is spotlessly clean throughout, offering 10 large rooms with wood furnishings, folk-art touches and cable TV. The bright, sunny breakfast nook is a great spot for a morning brew.
Vida Tropical B&BB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2443-9576; www.vidatropical.com; Calle 3; incl breakfast s/d US$45/68, without bathroom US$36/52; piW#)
In a quiet residential neighborhood a five-minute walk north of downtown Alajuela, this friendly house has snug, simple guest rooms awash with bright murals; two share a bathroom. The well-tended backyard is perfect for catching some sun in a hammock, and laundry service is available ($5 per load). In the backyard, kids will enjoy two playful pet rabbits.
Water and beer are available at the honor bar and local calls can be made free of charge. Manager Randy is also a reiki master (hour-long sessions from US$50), and he will help arrange airport pickup (US$8) at any hour.
oXandari Resort Hotel & SpaHOTEL$$$
(%2443-2020, in USA 1-866-363-3212; www.xandari.com; villa d US$300-418, q US$644; pnW
s) S
With spectacular bird’s-eye views of the Central Valley, this romantic spot is the fanciful creation of an architect-designer couple. Spacious individual villas with ceiling fans are tastefully decorated in vibrant tropical colors, with hand-woven textiles and garden-view showers. The grounds offer 4km of trails, five waterfalls, three pools, two Jacuzzis, a ping-pong table, a spa and an organic restaurant.
Tacacori EcolodgeBUNGALOW$$$
(%2430-5846; www.tacacori.com; d incl breakfast US$125, extra person US$20) S
Expat owner Nadine and her sheepdog run this peaceful retreat high above Alajuela. Four spacious bungalows with ultra-modern fixtures and abundant ecofriendly touches (solar hot water, LED lighting, dual-flush toilets) sit on a verdant hillside. Attractively priced ‘Hello-Goodbye’ packages and 15-minute airport transfers (from US$15) provide an incentive to begin and end your travels here.
Trapp Family Country InnINN$$$
(%2431-0776; www.trappfamilycostarica.com; r incl breakfast US$108, additional adult/child 5-11yr US$30/25; piWs)
The most attractive option you’ll find so close to the airport landing strip, this hacienda-style country inn houses eight terra-cotta-tiled rooms with comfortable beds. The best units have balconies overlooking the inviting turquoise pool and verdant garden laced with bougainvillea and fig trees. Despite its rural feel, it’s only 2km from the international airport; free airport transfers are provided.
Hotel Buena VistaHOTEL$$$
(%2442-8595, in USA 1-800-506-2304; www.hotelbuenavistacr.com; incl breakfast d from US$143, ste US$172, villas US$219; pniWs) S
About 5km north of Alajuela, this whitewashed Mediterranean-style hotel, perched on a mountaintop, has panoramic views of the nearby volcanoes. The best of the tastefully decorated rooms have private balconies with valley views; five villas offer private balconies along with wood-beamed ceilings and minibar. A small trail leads down through a coffee finca to the main road.
5Eating & Drinking
For the cheapest meals, head to the enclosed Mercado Central (Calles 4 & 6 btwn Avs 1 & Central; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat). Self-caterers can stock up on groceries at the Palí (h8.30am-9pm), MegaSuper (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Central btwn Calles Central & 2; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun) or Más X Menos (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av 1 btwn Calles 4 & 6; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun) supermarkets. There are plenty of major fast-food chains in town and a handful of excellent restaurants.
Alajuela isn’t known for its nightlife; aside from dive bars, local hotels and restaurants are the best bet for a nightcap. The 4th-floor terrace bar at Alajuela Backpackers is the airiest spot in town; Valedi Food sits in a trendy spot named El Patio, where craft beer is served; and Jalapeños Central pours giant salty margaritas.
oJalapeños CentralMEXICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2430-4027; www.facebook.com/JalapenosCentralCR; Calle 1 btwn Avs 3 & 5; mains US$4.50-8; h11:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun)
Offering the best Tex-Mex in the country, this popular 11-table spot will introduce some spice into your diet. The simple and fresh burritos, chimichangas and enchiladas come in a meal deal or on their own, and regardless should be devoured with some of the house-made guacamole and salsa, and washed down with a salty margarita or a giant Coronarita.
Mezcla Cafe & TiendaCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8333-0449; www.facebook.com/mezclacafe; Calle 1, btwn Avs 5 & 3; coffee from US$2, waffles from US$3.50; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat)
The hip Costa Rican owners of this small coffee shop were inspired to open their sleek space, with hardwoods, metallic stalls and clean white walls, after recent trips to Seattle. Part coffee shop and part boutique, it sells creations by local designers – from Frida Kahlo socks and asymmetric jewelry to graphic T-shirts. Browse while enjoying fresh juices and sweet waffles.
El Chante VeganoVEGETARIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8911-4787, 2440-3528; www.elchantevegano.com; mains US$6-10; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun; 
v)
Two brothers, their mom and a girlfriend run this eatery specializing in healthy organic food. Vegan treats – including garbanzo and portobello-mushroom burgers, falafel, textured-soy-protein nachos, pasta, pizza and sandwiches like the Veggie Lú (grilled veggies, avocado and sprouts on homemade bread) – are served on an open-air, street-facing patio.
Coffee Dreams CaféCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2430-3970; cnr Calle 1 & Av 3; mains US$5-10; h7am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm Sun; v)
For breakfast, bocas (appetizers) and a variety of típico (traditional Costa Rican) dishes, this centrally located cafe is a reliably good place to dine or enjoy a coffee accompanied by one of its rich desserts.
oValedi FoodFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %4700-5395; www.facebook.com/ValediFOOD; El Patio, Calle 3, btwn Avs 6 & 8; US$4-15; h11am-10pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri, 9am-midnight Sat, 9am-9pm Sun; pWvc) S
The food is excellent at this hip new, fairy-lit, open-air restaurant featuring simple white walls, wooden benches, hammocks and hanging plants. A build-it-yourself menu of organic, gluten-free and vegan creations includes juicy organic burgers, fresh salmon and slabs of meat, along with your choice of carbs, vegetables and toppings, presented on wooden boards or enamel dinner plates. Wash it down with a fresh juice or sangria. Young kids will enjoy playing in the restaurant’s teepee.
XandariINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%2443-2020; www.xandari.com; Xandari Resort Hotel & Spa; mains US$12-32; h7-10am, noon-4pm & 6-9pm; v) S
If you want to impress a date, you can’t go wrong at this elegant restaurant with incredible views. The menu is a mix of Costa Rican and international, with plenty of vegetarian options. The restaurant utilizes the resort’s homegrown organic produce, supplemented by locally grown organic produce whenever possible – it all makes for tasty and feel-good gourmet meals.
3Entertainment
The perennial Costa Rican soccer champions, Alajuela’s own La Liga (Liga Deportiva Alajuelense), have won 29 national championships and play at the Estadio Morera Soto (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2289-0909; tickets from US$8) at the northeastern end of town on Sunday during fútbol (soccer) season.
7Shopping
Goodlight BooksBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2430-4083; Av 3 btwn Calles 1 & 3; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat)
Book-a-holics, rejoice! Alajuela has one of the best English-language bookstores in the country (if not Central America). Managed by Alajuelense Rosa Carballo, Goodlight offers more than 20,000 well-organized used and new books, a worthwhile stock of difficult-to-find volumes on Costa Rica, a growing supply of Spanish-language titles and a sizable array of books in other European languages.
WORTH A TRIP
ZOO AVE
About 10km west of Alajuela, Zoo Ave (%2433-8989; www.rescateanimalzooave.org; adult/child US$20/5; h9am-5pm; pc) is a well-designed animal park with more than 115 types of bird on colorful, squawking display. The tranquil 14-hectare setting is also home to all four species of Costa Rican monkey, reptiles, wild cats and other species, many of which have been rescued and rehabilitated. Though technically a zoo, it is also an important animal-breeding center that aims to reintroduce native animals into the wild; admission fees fund wildlife rescue, rehabilitation, release and conservation programs.
The park’s restaurant, Cafe David, serves buffet food ($US11), à la carte dishes like grilled sea bass and penne bolognese, or salads and sandwiches.
8Information
Banco Nacional (h8:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) The most centrally located ATM can be found in the main square opposite the church.
Hospital San Rafael (%2436-1001; Calle 4) Alajuela’s hospital is a three-story building south of Av 10.
Post office (%2443-2653; cnr Av 5 & Calle 1; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat)
8Getting There & Away
Taxis charge between US$6 and US$10 (depending on destination) for the five- to 10-minute drive from Juan Santamaría International Airport into Alajuela.
There is no central bus terminal; instead, a number of small terminals and bus stops dot the southwestern part of the city. Note that there are two Tuasa terminals – east (%2442-6900; Calle 8 btwn Avs Central & 1) and west (Calle 8 btwn Avs Central & 1) – right across the street from each other. From there, buses to Grecia and Sarchí (cnr Calle 10 & Av 1) are a block west; buses to Atenas (Calle 10 btwn Avs Central & 2) are one block west and one block south; and buses to Volcán Poás (%2442-6900; Calle 8 btwn Avs Central & 2) are a block south. Buses to San José via the airport (Av 4 btwn Calles 2 & 4) leave from in front of the Parque de los Niños, on the opposite side of the street.
Coopetransasi (%2449-5141) offers routes around Costa Rica.
BUSES FROM ALAJUELA
| DESTINATION | BUS COMPANY | COST (US$) | DURATION | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Atenas | Coopetransatenas | 2 | 1hr | every 30-90min 5:50am-9:45pm Mon-Fri (less frequently Sat & Sun) |
| Grecia | Transportes Tuan | 2 | 1hr | roughly half-hourly 5am-10pm |
| Heredia | Tuasa | 1.50 | 45min | every 15min 5:30am-10pm |
| Juan Santamaría International Airport | Tuasa | 1.50 | 15min | every 10-30min, 24hr |
| San José | Tuasa | 1.50 | 45min | every 10-30min, 24hr |
| Sarchí | Transportes Tuan | 2 | 1-1.5hr | roughly half-hourly 5am-10pm |
| Volcán Poás | Coopetransasi | 5 round trip | 1hr | departs 9:15am, returns 2:30pm |
Parque Nacional Volcán Poás
Just 37km north of Alajuela by a winding and scenic road is Parque Nacional Volcán Poás (%2482-1226; US$15; h8am-3:30pm), the home of a 2704m active volcano. Violent eruptions hadn’t taken place for more than 60 years when rumblings began in 2014; there were further significant eruptions in April and June 2017, and at the time of research the park was closed due to these events.
In previous years it was possible to peer into the crater, measuring 1.3km across and 300m deep, and watch the steaming, bubbling cauldron belch sulfurous mud and water hundreds of meters into the air. This may be possible again in future, but for now the best place to view Poás is from afar, in the scenic, uncluttered countryside. At research time the volcano was smoking – a spectacular sight. The best time to see it is early in the morning, ideally before the clouds creep in around noon.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are no accommodations inside the park, but the area surrounding the volcano offers a range of options for all tastes and budgets. Some are closed due to recent eruptions, but the Peace Lodge is still open; book before you visit.
oPoás Volcano LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2482-2194; www.poasvolcanolodge.com; Vara Blanca; incl breakfast garden r US$115-145, lodges US$195-245; piW)
For contemporary class in an idyllic rural setting, visit this high-altitude dairy farm, whose 11 suites combine rusticity and elegance; the best have a balcony and private garden and/or fireplace. Spacious common areas include a games room and a library. More than 3km of hiking trails offer quetzal sightings and views of the volcano (and even Nicaragua!) on clear days.
Peace LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2482-2720; www.waterfallgardens.com; d standard/deluxe/villa/deluxe villa US$430/510/710/940, additional adult/child US$40/20; pWs)
Guests feel they’ve stepped into a fairy tale at this over-the-top lodge, with its exquisite villas boasting majestic valley views, private decks with Jacuzzis, fireplaces and huge bathrooms with waterfall showers. There’s an animal rescue center, hiking trails, five giant waterfalls and a trout pond where you can fish for your own lunch. This highly imaginative setting, with its multiple pools and interactive animal experiences (toucan and hummingbird feeding), will have kids over the moon.
Freddo FresasBREAKFAST, SOUP$
(%2482-2800; dishes breakfast US$3-7, lunch US$6-10; h7am-4pm)
This homey spot looks as though it was built from oversize Lincoln logs. It’s known for heavenly strawberry smoothies (milky ones beat watery ones) and large, piping-hot breakfasts that fuel some serious hikes. For those returning from a hike, a wide soup selection warms the soul. Find Freddo’s a couple of blocks north of the cemetery.
oColbert RestaurantFRENCH$$
(%2482-2776, 8301-1793; www.facebook.com/restaurantefrancescolbert; Vara Blanca; mains US$8-32; hnoon-8pm Fri-Tue)
At this charming restaurant 6km east of Poasito, the toque-clad, mustachioed French chef Joël Suire looks like he’s straight out of central casting. Naturally, the menu is loaded with traditional French items such as onion soup, house-made pâté and rabbit with beer sauce. A good wine list is strong on vintages from South America and France.
8Information
Before the recent eruptions there was a visitor center near the park entrance with a souvenir shop, a cafe and a small museum. These were closed at research time but may reopen in future.
8Getting There & Away
Numerous local companies offer daily tours to the volcano (US$40 to US$100). Check with the companies before you plan your trip to see if the tours are still running after the park’s closure in 2017. It’s much cheaper, and nearly as easy, to visit the volcano on the daily Coopetransasi bus from Alajuela (US$5 return, 9:15am, 50 minutes). Due to the latest volcanic activity the bus may only reach a certain point; check with the driver before you board. Both the tours and the bus typically reach the area around 10am – right when the clouds start rolling in.
To beat the clouds, your best bet is to hire a car (from US$40 per day) or a taxi (roughly US$35 from Alajuela, US$50 to US$60 from San José) and arrive near the park’s entrance. The road from Alajuela to the volcano is well signposted, but at the time of research you could only drive as far as Poás Lodge (4km below the park’s entrance), due to the recent eruptions.
WORTH A TRIP
LA PAZ WATERFALL GARDENS
The storybook complex of La Paz Waterfall Gardens (%2482-2720, reservations 2482-2100; www.waterfallgardens.com; adult/under 13yr US$42/26, package tours from San José US$88/78; h8am-5pm; pc) just east of Volcán Poás offers the most easily digestible cultural experience in the Central Valley. Guests walk 3.5km of well-maintained trails to five scenic waterfalls, and can also wander around zoo-like displays including a butterfly conservatory, get up close to hummingbirds and hand-feed toucans. Then, tour a serpentarium and ranarium (frog garden), witness wild cats eating their meals, and devour a plate of your own at one of park’s restaurants. It’s an ideal spot for families, and you can stay on-site at the Peace Lodge.
Atenas
POP 5000
This small village, on the historic camino de carretas (oxcart trail) that once carried coffee beans as far as Puntarenas, is best known for having the most pleasant climate in the world – according to none other than National Geographic. It’s not too heavy on sights, but springtime is always in the air and the central square is a lovely spot to take in Costa Rican life.
1Sights
Monumento al BoyeroMONUMENT
(Monument to the Oxcart Driver) F
This iron monument welcomes visitors to Atenas while honoring the Costa Rican oxcart driver. It’s 1km before Atenas on the north side of the road.
4Sleeping & Eating
Vista Atenas B&BB&B$$
(%2446-4272; www.vistaatenas.com; r incl breakfast US$85-105; Ws) S
Here you can soak up stunning valley views that include four volcanoes – lucky guests may even see smoking craters in the distance. There are comfy rooms and self-catering cabins to choose from, plus a communal swimming-pool terrace. Expat owner Vera has lovingly enhanced the property with ecofriendly touches, including solar-pumped and heated spring water. Kitchenettes are available.
Chicharronera Don YayoLATIN AMERICAN$
(%2446-5901; dishes US$7-12; h11am-11pm)
About 1km from the center of Atenas and within sight of the Monumento al Boyero, this open-air restaurant specializes in fried pork dishes, barbecue and grilled meats. It’s a satisfying spot to enjoy a hearty meal and a cold beer.
Restaurant La Trocha del BoyeroCOSTA RICAN$$
(%2446-0533; casados US$9, mains US$9-18; hnoon-8:30pm Thu-Tue; W)
Tico families and expats crowd the pleasant deck here for the casados (set meals) on offer, fresh trout (in season), sirloin and heaping bowls of chifrijo (rice and beans with fried pork, corn chips and fresh tomato salsa). It’s located on a road off the main road towards Alajuela before the monument. Look for a sign at the turnoff.
8Getting There & Away
Coopetransatenas (%2446-5767) buses run from Atenas to Alajuela (US$1.50, 45 to 60 minutes, every 30 minutes to 1½ hours from 5.10am to 8.30pm), with one change in La Garita. Transportes Morales (%2223-5567) buses run to San José (US$2, 1¼ hours, every 15 minutes to 1½ hours from 6am to 7.30pm). The Atenas area is quite spread out, and best navigated by car.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
PARQUE NACIONAL JUAN CASTRO BLANCO
This 143-sq-km national park (admission by donation) was created to protect the slopes of Volcán Platanar (2183m) and Volcán Porvenir (2267m) from logging and mining. The headwaters for five major rivers originate here, making this one of the most important watersheds in the country. While federally protected, much of the park is still privately owned by plantation families – only those parts that have already been purchased by the government are technically open to travelers.
From the visitor center a 2km trail climbs through pastureland, then descends to Pozo Verde, a green lake surrounded by mountains. A rougher trail continues 3.5km to Las Minas, an abandoned mine site (only hikeable with a guide). Shorter trails include the Universal Trail (only half a kilometer) and the 1.5km Canto de Las Aves (Birdsong) trail. The park is popular among anglers as the five rivers are brimming with trout.
The limited infrastructure and tourist traffic mean your chances of spotting rare wildlife (quetzals, black guans, curassows) are higher than average. Guides can be arranged through tour agencies and hotels in the area.
Sleeping & Eating
Albergue Ecológico Pozo Verde (%8872-9808; www.alberguemonterreal.com/eng/index.html; d incl breakfast US$50-70; W) is the only place to stay near the park.
Tucked into a pretty valley about 1km before the park headquarters, Restaurante El Congo (%8872-9808; www.alberguemonterreal.com/eng/restaurant.html; mains US$10; h9am-5pm Sat & Sun; W) is the area’s only place to eat.
Getting There & Away
The park entrance is located at the end of a rough 10km road from El Sucre, 20km north of Zarcero. The road is passable for skilled drivers in 2WD vehicles until the final descent; if you don’t have a 4WD, park on the hilltop 300m before the visitor center.
Grecia
POP 15,450
The village of Grecia – known as the ‘Cleanest Little Town in Latin America’ – is centered on pleasant Parque Central, anchored by one of the most charming churches in Costa Rica. Southeast of town are two stunning natural waterfalls.
1Sights
Las Cataratas de Los ChorrosWATERFALL
(%7091-2554; US$6; h8am-4pm Mon-Sun)
About 7km southeast of Grecia, north of Tacares and Flores, are two gorgeous waterfalls and a swimming hole surrounded by shaded areas and picnic tables. It’s a popular spot for weekending couples. Look for the sign on Rte 722 heading north of Flores. Just beyond the sign is a grassy parking lot. Pay the attendant around US$6 and then walk approximately 15 minutes along a stony, sometimes muddy, dirt track to the spectacular falls; the first is 40m high.
Catedral de la MercedesCHURCH
(%2494-1616; http://parroquiadegrecia.com)
At the heart of town you’ll find the incredibly quaint Catedral de la Mercedes, a red metal structure that was prefabricated in Belgium and shipped to Costa Rica in 1897 – and resembles a gingerbread church. It has an airy nave, bright Spanish-tile floors and a Gothic-style altar covered in marble.
Rock BridgeBRIDGE
About 5km south of Grecia, a bend in the road leads to an 18th-century rock bridge connecting the hamlets of Puente de Piedra and Rincón de Salas. Locals say the only other bridge like this is in China, and legend holds that it was built by the devil. If you park before the entrance you can get closer on foot to see the impressive stone structure.
4Sleeping & Eating
Mangífera HostelHOSTEL$
(%2494-6065; www.mangiferahostel.com; dm/d US$10/38, d without bathroom US$34; pW)
This cozy hostel, with wooden floors and a friendly ambience, feels instantly welcoming. On the northern side of Parque Central, it has eight rooms, three of which are dorms. There’s a shared kitchen and small garden where hummingbirds feed. Laundry service available.
Café DeliciasCAFE$$
(%2494-2093; www.cafedelicias.com; sandwiches US$5-7, dishes US$7-15; h7am-9pm; W)
For rich coffee drinks, cinnamon rolls, sandwiches and light meals – as well as free wi-fi – hit this enjoyable spot near the southwestern corner of Parque Central.
8Getting There & Away
Buses for San José and Sarchí stop at the TUAN bus terminal, 150m north of Grecia’s central plaza.
San José Around US$3.50, one hour, at least half-hourly from 4.30am to 8:30pm.
Sarchí, connecting to Naranjo US$1, 30 minutes, half-hourly from 5:55am to 11:15pm.
Sarchí
POP 6900
Welcome to Costa Rica’s most famous crafts center, where artisans produce the ornately painted oxcarts and leather-and-wood furnishings for which the Central Valley is known. Just about everything is covered in the colorful signature geometric designs – even city hall. Yes, it’s a tourist trap, but it’s a pretty one. The town is stretched out along a road that weaves through hilly countryside.
Most people just come in for an afternoon of shopping, but if you have time on your hands it’s possible to meet different artisans and custom order a creation. In Sarchí Norte you’ll find the heart of the village, including a twin-towered church, some restaurants and pulperías (corner stores), and what is purported to be the world’s largest oxcart.
1Sights
Jardín Botánico Else KientzlerGARDENS
(%2454-2070; www.elsegarden.com; Sarchí Norte; adult/child US$5.50/3.50; h8am-4pm; c)
This well-tended botanical garden 1.4km north of Sarchí Norte’s soccer field has 2km of trails winding through more than 2000 types of clearly labeled plants, including succulents, fruit trees, palms, heliconias and orchids. Regular yoga workshops, plant fairs and talks also take place in the grounds.
SHOPPING SARCHÍ
Most travelers come to Sarchí for one thing only: carretas, the elaborate, colorfully painted oxcarts that are the unofficial souvenir of Costa Rica – and the official symbol of the Costa Rican worker. In Sarchí they come ready for the road (oxen sold separately) or in scaled-down versions. But the area produces plenty of other curios: leather-and-wood furniture (including those incredible rocking chairs that collapse for shipping), wooden tableware and trinkets emblazoned with the colorful mandala design popularized by the carretas.
There are more than 200 vendors, and prices and quality vary, so it pays to shop around. Workshops are usually open from 8am to 5pm daily; they accept credit cards and US dollars, and can arrange international shipping. Two of the most respected and popular spots are the Fábrica de Carretas Eloy Alfaro (%2454-4131; http://souvenirscostarica.com; Sarchí Norte; h8am-5pm) and the Fábrica de Carretas Joaquín Chaverri (%2454-4411; www.facebook.com/FabricaDeCarretasJoaquinChaverri; Sarchí Sur; h8am-5pm).
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Paraíso Río VerdeBUNGALOW$
(%2454-3003; San Pedro de Sarchí; r from US$45, bungalows from US$60; pWs)
A 5km detour northeast of Sarchí, this spot in the highland village of San Pedro enjoys nice panoramic vistas of coffee plantations and volcanoes Poás, Barva and Irazú. Two inexpensive doubles (including one with prime morning perspectives on the valley) are complemented by a pair of spacious four-person bungalows with kitchenettes. The optional breakfast costs US$8 per person. As it’s only identifiable from the road by a huge German flag painted on wood, finding this secluded place can be tricky. With notice, the owners can provide GPS coordinates or meet you beside the giant oxcart in Sarchí’s plaza. Credit cards are not accepted, and wi-fi only works in the outdoor common areas.
Don LoloBUFFET$$
(%2454-1633; mains US$10-20; h8am-3pm)
In the upstairs area of Fábrica de Carretas Eloy Alfaro, this soda serves up breakfasts, brunch and buffets.
8Getting There & Away
If you’re driving from San José, from the Interamericana take the signed exit to Grecia and from there follow the road north to Sarchí. If you’re coming from the west, take the turnoff north to Naranjo, then head east to Sarchí.
Buses arrive and depart from Sarchí Norte, running to:
Alajuela Around US$2, one to 1½ hours, every 15 to 30 minutes from 5am to 10:30pm.
Grecia Around US$1, 30 minutes, half-hourly from 5:25am to 10:35pm.
San José Around US$2.50, 1½ to 2¾ hours, around every 30 minutes from 5am to 10:30pm, with a change in Alajuela.
Zarcero
POP 13,200
North of Naranjo, the road winds for 20km until it reaches Zarcero’s 1736m perch at the western end of the Cordillera Central. This is a gorgeous location: the mountains look as if they’ve been lifted from landscape paintings and the climate is fresh. But the real reason you’re here is to see the country’s most surreal shrubbery at Parque Francisco Alvarado.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel ZarceroHOTEL$
(%2463-4141; s/d/tr/q from US$21/26/35/43)
A couple of blocks up from the church, Hotel Zarcero is the only place to stay in town. There are 15 basic rooms with locally made furnishings.
Rancho AmaliaFARMSTAY$$
(%2463-2401, 8994-4288; www.ranchoamalia.com/en; d cabin US$87, extra person $13; hDec-May, groups year-round; pW)
Attention, horse people: this family-owned mountaintop ranch just 10 minutes south of Zarcero is your dream. On offer are four charming and well-constructed cabins with fireplaces, TVs and full kitchens, a dining hall and elegant stables. The property’s horses carry guests across the hillside, through forests and over scenic pastureland surrounded by wildflowers and views of the Central Valley.
Riding tours cost from US$15 per person. Watch out for the barking guard dogs on the way into the property.
Hereford Steak HouseSTEAK$$
(%2463-4309; meals US$5-16; h11am-late)
When in cowboy country, hit the steak house. With plenty of steer horns, saddles, lassos and other equine memorabilia decorating the walls, this longtime favorite grills up New York strip, filet mignon and other mouthwatering cuts. Alternative options include sandwiches, pastas, burgers and pizzas.
8Getting There & Away
Transportes Zarcero (%2451-4080) runs daily direct buses to San José (around US$2.50, two hours, with one change in Alajuela) every hour from 6:10am to 8:10pm. All buses stop along the main street below the square.
WORTH A TRIP
PARQUE FRANCISCO ALVARADO
In front of the Iglesia de San Rafael, Parque Francisco Alvarado was a normal plaza until the 1960s, when a gardener named Evangelisto Blanco became inspired to shave the ordinary topiary into a bizarre series of drippy, abstract shapes. Over the years these morphed into fanciful creatures, weird blobby creations and tunnels of arches you can walk through. Bring your camera.
Bajos del Toro
A gorgeous road snakes northeast out of Zarcero, climbing steeply through hillsides dotted with family dairy farms, then plunging abruptly into the stunning valley of the Río Toro, surrounded by the lower reaches of the area’s cloud-forest ecosystem. If you were looking for a little piece of Costa Rica where everybody knows everybody, then look no further. This small town (full name: Bajos del Toro Amarillo) is rural idyll at its finest. There are no banks. Bring all the cash you’ll need.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are only three hotels in the area, and they’re very popular. Be sure to show up with a reservation.
oCatarata del ToroCABINA$$
(%2476-0800, 8399-7476; www.catarata-del-toro.com; s/d/t/q incl breakfast US$65/80/105/130)
At this roadside spot 6km north of Bajos del Toro, wood-paneled rooms are tucked under A-frame-style eaves. However, the real attraction is the adjacent waterfall, a 90m-tall beauty that cascades into a volcanic crater; the waterfall is reached by a steep but well-maintained trail (US$14, free for guests). There’s also a restaurant where hummingbirds flock to feed alongside the humans.
Bosque de Paz Rain/Cloud Forest Lodge & Biological ReserveLODGE$$$
(%2234-6676; www.bosquedepaz.com; per person incl 3 meals s US$163-225, d US$123-173; pW) S
A birdwatcher’s paradise, this 10-sq-km reserve straddles an important wilderness corridor between Parque Nacional Volcán Poás and Parque Nacional Juan Castro Blanco, with more than 22km of trails in old-growth forest, and an orchid garden. The dozen spacious, terra-cotta-tiled rooms, within earshot of a rushing river, feature large windows with forest views. Vegan diets can be accommodated. Advance reservations recommended.
El SilencioLODGE$$$
(%2476-0303, reservations 2231-6122; www.elsilenciolodge.com; ste/villas incl breakfast & activity but not tax US$310-660; pnW) S
Secluded outside of town, this upscale lodge comprises luxuriously designed cabina suites with private deck, rocking chairs, a Jacuzzi and fine mountain views, plus six-person villas with gas fireplaces and full kitchens. There’s also a spa, 8km worth of trails (leading to stunning waterfalls) and a health-conscious restaurant serving meals using organic produce grown on site. The wi-fi can be weak in some areas of the lodge.
Soda Restaurante NenéCOSTA RICAN$
(%2476-0631, 2476-0130; mains US$5-8; h9am-6pm)
Just south of town, tucked slightly back from the main road, this simple green shack of a restaurant is flanked by well-stocked trout ponds. Catch your own fish, then enjoy it fried or grilled with garlic at the rustic picnic-bench-style tables. Chicken, squid and tuna fried rice also available.
8Getting There & Away
Driving north from the Interamericana through Zarcero, take a right immediately after the church and continue northeast about 15km. Alternatively, take the road due north from Sarchí’s central plaza. Both roads are almost entirely paved but involve stomach-churning steep climbs and hairpin turns; a 4WD makes all the difference to your nerves but isn’t obligatory.
There’s a bus from Grecia at 3pm every day except Thursday. The fare is around US$2.
San Ramón
POP 10,700
The pretty colonial town of San Ramón is no wallflower in the pageant of Costa Rican history. The ‘City of Presidents and Poets’ has sent five men to the country’s highest office, including Rodrigo Carazo, who built a tourist lodge a few kilometers to the north.
Another of Costa Rica’s beloved presidents, José Figueres Ferrer, is paid homage in an edifying culture and history center just north of the city’s central park.
1Sights
José Figueres Ferrer Center for Culture & HistoryARTS CENTER
(%2447-2178; http://centrojosefigueres.org; h10am-6pm Wed-Sat) F
This museum and cultural center celebrates all things José Figueres, the three-time Costa Rican president best known for abolishing the country’s army in 1948. The museum has historical exhibits and artistic representations of Figueres on display, and also contains art and music classrooms and performance spaces.
Parque CentralPLAZA
The twin spires of the ash-gray Iglesia de San Ramón tower over this pretty square at the center of town.
4Sleeping
oCasa AmanecerB&B$$
(%2445-2100; www.casa-amanecer-cr.com; s/d/ste incl breakfast US$73/82/95; pW) S
A 10-minute drive northeast of San Ramón, this sleekly designed B&B, owned by former Habitat for Humanity volunteers, offers five graceful contemporary rooms with polished-concrete floors and orthopedic beds. Tasty veggie breakfasts are served on the breezy shared terrace. Additional meals and airport transfers (US$85 for up to four people) can be arranged with advance reservation.
Hotel La PosadaINN$$
(%2445-7359; www.posadahotel.net; s/d US$45/60, incl breakfast US$50/70; paiW) S
Well-maintained rooms surround a lush, plant-filled courtyard at this pleasant inn, 400m north of the church. Rooms are somewhat baroque-looking, outfitted with massive handcrafted beds that lie somewhere on the design continuum between Louis XIV and African safari. All have mini fridges and cable TV; more expensive units have hot tubs. Some units are wheelchair-accessible, and a few have air-conditioning.
oVilla Blanca Cloud Forest Hotel & Nature ReserveLODGE$$$
(%2461-0300, in USA & Canada 1-877-256-8399; www.villablanca-costarica.com; d US$210-275, additional person US$50, child under 6yr free; piW) S
Occupying a cloud-forest aerie, this private reserve 18km north of San Ramón is centered on a lodge and dairy ranch once owned by ex-president Rodrigo Carazo. Its 35 free-standing casitas (little houses) come with wi-fi, private terrace, minibar and TV. Additional facilities include a restaurant, a spa (massages from US$60), a yoga center and a movie theater screening films nightly.
The surrounding 800 hectares of primary and secondary cloud forest offer excellent wildlife-spotting opportunities. Bilingual naturalist guides are available for morning and evening cloud-forest walks (US$29), and birdwatching (US$29) and quetzal-spotting (US$79) tours. Certified at the highest level of sustainability, the lodge composts, recycles and follows energy-efficient practices. For kids, there’s an arcade and a games room; child-care services are available for a fee. You can also book a place on night hikes and cow-milking and ice-cream-making sessions.
The turnoff is well signposted from the Interamericana, but a 4WD is recommended for the 9km-long potholed road. A taxi from San Ramón costs about US$30.
Tierras EnamoradasLODGE$$$
(Lands in Love; %2447-9331, in USA 1-408-215-1000; www.landsinlove.com; Hwy 702; d incl breakfast US$132, additional person US$27; pWs#) S
Midway between San Ramón and La Fortuna, this well-signposted lodge has eclectic rooms with bright floral motifs, a lounge, an outdoor swimming pool and Jacuzzi, a pet hotel (US$40 per night) and a plethora of adventure activities, from a canopy tour to canyoning to horseback riding. The restaurant serves an international mix of delicious vegetarian and vegan dishes.
WORTH A TRIP
FIESTA DE PALMARES
The 13-day beer-soaked extravaganza Fiestas de Palmares (hmid-Jan) has been running for more than 30 years. It features carnival rides, a tope (horse parade), fireworks, big-name bands, small-name bands, exotic dancers, fried food, guaro (a local firewater made from sugarcane) tents and the densest population of merry Ticos you’ve ever seen. One of the country’s biggest events – crowds can reach hundreds of thousands – it’s covered widely on national TV.
5Eating
Merak Fusion and Soda AtaFUSION$
(%2447-3470; cnr Av 8 & Calle 1; US$6-12; hSoda Ata 7am-3pm, Merak 6-10pm; W)
Two eateries operate out of this new space with hardwood floors and simple, clean decor. By day it’s a soda, selling soup and rice dishes; in the evening it becomes a fusion restaurant with creations like Portobello mushrooms and blue cheese, Caribbean squid, and mountain beans and sauerkraut. The menu changes weekly. It’s lovely for a sangria, wine or beer, too. Find it southeast of the church.
Mi ChozaCOSTA RICAN$$
(%2445-1286; cnr Calle 7 & Av 10; mains US$8-20; h11am-11pm)
At the southeastern end of town, this lively cantina is decked out with mounted steer horns, soccer jerseys and flat-screen TVs. The steaks are large and the service is friendly.
El Rincón PoetaCOSTA RICAN$$
(%2447-3942; Calle 1 btwn Avs 2 & 4; mains US$8-17; h11am-10pm)
Hidden away off the main street and decorated with historical black-and-white photos of San Ramón, this locally popular spot serves up big platters of típico meat, seafood and rice dishes in a dining room filled with sturdy tree-trunk tables or on the pleasant vine-shaded gravel patio up front. It’s 150m southeast of the church.
8Getting There & Away
San Ramón is served by hourly buses (around US$3, one hour 20 minutes, between 4.30am and 8.15pm) to San José’s Empresarios Unidos terminal. Buses also head north to Zarcero via Ciudad Quesada (around US$5, three hours, 5.55am, 1pm and 5.15pm). Bus stops are just northwest of Parque Central; contact Coopa-trac (%2460-0638) for info.
Heredia Area
At the southern point of the province, only 11km north of San José, a quaint university city sits in the shadow of the dormant Volcán Barva. Established in 1706, Heredia is known as the ‘City of Flowers’ due to its verdant flora, which thrive in the area’s temperate climate and sporadic rain showers. Dotted with colonial architecture, it’s a popular choice for those wanting to learn Spanish.
There’s a mini tech industry in Heredia, and Intel opened two new business units in 2015, focusing on engineering, information security and product life cycle, yet the region’s most notable industry is still coffee. Base yourself here for an easy gateway to one of Costa Rica’s largest swaths of highland forest, Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo.
8Getting There & Away
Buses are a reliable, cheap bet in and around Heredia. Rent a car for more flexibility.
Heredia
POP 135,300
During the 19th century, La Ciudad de las Flores (the City of the Flowers) was home to a cafetalero (coffee grower) aristocracy that made its fortune exporting Costa Rica’s premium blend. Today the historic center retains some of this well-bred air, with a leafy main square and low-lying buildings, reflecting Spanish-colonial architectural style.
Although only 11km from San José, Heredia is – in personality – removed from the grit and grime of the capital. Universidad Nacional (National University) keeps things a touch bohemian, and on any afternoon you’re bound to find the local bars and cafes abuzz with young folk idling away their time. Heredia is also the most convenient base from which to explore little-visited Volcán Barva, within the Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo.
1Sights
Casa de la CulturaMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2261-4485; http://casadelaculturaalfredogonzalezflores.blogspot.co.uk; cnr Calle Central & Av Central; h8am-8pm) F
Occupying a privileged position on the corner of the plaza just above the church, this low-lying Spanish structure dates back to the late 18th century. At one point it served as the residence of President Alfredo González Flores, who governed from 1913 to 1917. It is beautifully maintained and now houses permanent historical displays as well as rotating art exhibits.
Parque CentralPARK
Heredia was founded in 1706, and in true Spanish-colonial style it has several interesting old landmarks arranged around Parque Central, including an ornate fountain and a bandstand.
El FortínTOWER
This tower, constructed in 1876 by order of Heredia’s provincial governor, is the official symbol of Heredia. It was declared a national historic monument in 1974, but because of its fragile state it remains closed to the public.
CCourses
Centro Panamericano de IdiomasLANGUAGE
(CPI; %2265-6306, in USA 1-877-373-3116; www.cpi-edu.com; private lessons from US$30, 20hr of group tuition from US$460, 1-week homestay from US$200)
Based in San Joaquín de Flores, just outside Heredia, this popular school also has a teen camp and family programs. There’s a maximum of four students per class.
InterculturaLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2260-8480; www.interculturacostarica.com; cnr Calle 10 & Av 4; private lessons from US$26, 20hr group tuition with/without 1-week homestay from US$570/275)
This school also arranges volunteer opportunities and offers cooking and dance classes.
4Sleeping
Hotel Las FloresHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2261-8147; www.hotel-lasflores.com; Av 12 btwn Calles 12 & 14; s/d/tr US$17/32/42; pW)
A bit of a walk from the action, this spotless no-frills, family-run place has basic, brightly painted rooms with TVs and hot-water showers.
Hotel ValladolidHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2260-2912, 2260-2905; www.hotelvalladolid.net; cnr Calle 7 & Av 7; s/d incl breakfast US$75/87; paiW)
This business hotel on a quiet street has 12 bright, clean and business-like tiled rooms with wi-fi, safes, cable TV and private bathrooms with hot water. Credit cards accepted.
Hotel Chalet TirolINN$$$
(%2267-6222; www.hotelchaleteltirol.com; r US$90-115; pW#)
This charming hotel channels the gingerbread quaintness of the Alps. (It once served as a backdrop for a German beer advert.) The 15 suites and 20 chalets have cable TV, room service and a gorgeous mountain setting; some also have Jacuzzis, fireplaces or wheelchair-accessible facilities. The in-house restaurant serves French food (dishes US$5 to US$25) and sometimes hosts live music on weekends. Find the hotel northeast of Heredia, 3km north of Castillo Country Club.
Hotel BougainvilleaHOTEL$$$
(%2244-1414, from USA 866-880-5441; www.hb.co.cr; Santo Domingo; d incl breakfast US$128.50-154.50, extra person US$17.50; pniWs) S
Set on 4 hectares about 6km outside town, this efficient hotel is surrounded by an expansive, well-manicured garden with old trees, stunning flowers and plenty of statuary. The crisp, whitewashed rooms have balconies with views of mountains or the city, and several private trails wind by the swimming pool and tennis courts, through forest and orchards. Credit cards accepted. There’s also a tennis court and gym. Cribs are complimentary.
5Eating
In the grand tradition of university towns worldwide, Heredia offers plenty of spots for pizza and cheap grub, not to mention a branch of every fast-food outlet imaginable. There are a couple of good cafes where you can enjoy a sandwich too.
Ohana Waffle & Coffee BarCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2237-8493; www.facebook.com/ohanawaffles; cnr Calle Central & Av 4; waffles from US$4.20; h10:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun)
Inside this slim, blue cubbyhole cafe, complete with pineapple wallpaper, you’ll find the best sweet snacks in town. Order egg waffles and choose from 50 types of toppings. Mix-and-match flavors like chocolate and caramel with marshmallows and Oreo-cookie-chunk toppings, then slather your creation in dollops of cream. It also serves fresh-fruit smoothies, coffee and wraps.
Mercado MunicipalMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Calle 2 btwn Avs 6 & 8; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat)
You can fill up for a couple of thousand colones at the Mercado Municipal, which has sodas to spare and plenty of very fresh groceries.
Coffee BreakCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %4001-2462; www.facebook.com/herbariumcoffeebreak; cnr Av 2 & Calle 2; mains US$2-5; h8am-7:30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun)
A simple counter-service cafe at the southwestern side of the park, selling coffee, salads and sandwiches (in various varieties including crab meat, chicken, ham and cheese), plus quiches, omelettes and pancakes.
La CantinaLATIN AMERICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %4034-8774; Calle 9 btwn Avs 3 & 5; mains US$4-7; h5-11pm Mon-Sat)
This yellow-and-red joint with two bars has patio seating and specializes in chicharrón (fried pork), with a killer chifrijo (dish of fried pork, beans, rice and avocado). The extensive list of bocas (appetizers) and fried bar snacks is worth a nibble as well.
6Drinking & Nightlife
With a thriving student body, the city has no shortage of live music and cultural events. The university district is hopping most nights of the week. Be aware that downtown Heredia can get a bit dodgy at night.
Miraflores DiscothequeCLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/discomiracr; cnr Av 2 & Calle 2; h8pm-6am)
After a few rounds of beers, the party really kicks off at the Miraflores Discotheque, at the southern edge of Parque Central above Coffee Break cafe. Here locals get groovy to a mix of international beats.
La ChozaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av Central btwn Calles 7 & 9; h11am-1am Mon-Sat, 1pm-1am Sun)
The oldest of the bars around these parts, La Choza is known for strong drinks and loud music.
El Bulevar RelaxSPORTS BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2237-1832; cnr Calle 7 & Av Central; h11am-1am; W)
Sports bar known for offering boozy promotions on a regular basis.
KID-FRIENDLY CENTRAL VALLEY
Family-friendly attractions abound in the Central Valley. Here are a few spots guaranteed to please kids and adults alike.
Parque Francisco Alvarado In Zarcero, kids will love zigzagging through rows of bushes sculpted into stegosauruses and other fantastic shapes in these topiary gardens.
Río Pejibaye Turrialba outfitters lead rafting trips on this Class I–II river that’s plenty scenic but not too rough.
Zoo Ave In La Garita, stroll the grounds alongside peacocks and giant lizards, visit with monkeys or take the canopy tour at this zoo and animal-rescue center.
Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte Easy hiking trails lead down to sandy beaches where kids can splash in a boulder-strewn river.
8Information
BCR (cnr Av Central & Calle Central; h5am-10pm) Has an ATM dispensing US dollars.
Hospital San Vicente de Paul (%2562-8100; Calle 12) A new hospital south of Av 14.
8Getting There & Away
There is no central bus terminal; buses leave from stops scattered between the university and the Mercado Central.
The San José–bound Rápidas Heredianas bus (Av 8 btwn Calles Central & 1) is the best option if you’re transferring to a Caribbean-bound bus, as it drops you near San José’s Terminal Caribeña. The other bus to San José can be found two blocks west (Av 8 btwn Calles 2 & 4). Buses to Barva (Calle 1 btwn Avs 4 & 6), as well as buses to San José de la Montana/Paso Llano (Calle 1 btwn Avs 4 & 6), can be found due north of the San José Rápidas Heredianas buses near the main drag, Av 4. Buses to Alajuela (cnr Av 1 & Calle 9) are on the northeastern side of town.
BUSES FROM HEREDIA
| DESTINATION | COMPANY | COST (US$) | DURATION | FREQUENCY |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Alajuela | Tuasa | 1 | 45min | every 15min 6am-10:30pm |
| Barva | Transportes Barveños LTDA | 1 | 15min | every 15min 4:55am-11pm |
| San José | Busetas Heredianas | 1 | 30min | every 5-10min 5am-11pm |
| San José | Rápidas Heredianas | 1 | 30min | every 15min-2hr (longer for early-morning buses) midnight-11:50pm |
| San José de la Montaña/Paso Llano (for Volcán Barva) | Transportes del Norte | 1 | 60min | every 10min-1hr 4:50am-5:30pm |
Barva
POP 34,600
Surrounded by picturesque mountains only 2.5km north of Heredia, the historic town of Barva is a settlement dating back to 1561. Declared a national monument, the town center is dotted with low-lying 19th-century buildings and is centered on the towering Iglesia San Bartolomé, constructed in 1893. The surrounding area was once popular with the Costa Rican elite: Cleto González Víquez (1858–1937), twice president of Costa Rica (he built the original National Library), was born and raised here. It’s a perfect spot for a lazy afternoon stroll.
1Sights
Museo de Cultura PopularMUSEUM
(%2260-1619; Santa Lucía; h8am-5pm Sun) F
Housed in a restored 19th-century farmhouse 1.5km southeast of Barva, this tiny museum surrounded by well-labeled gardens is run by the Universidad Nacional. Visitors can tour rooms full of antique furniture, textiles, ceramics and other period pieces. On Sunday the on-site restaurant La Fonda serves casados (US$8) on its pleasant open-air terrace. The museum is also open by reservation only for groups from 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday. An admission fee is charged on these days; phone to inquire about a price for your group.
TTours
Café Britt FincaTOURS
(%2277-1600; www.coffeetour.com; without/with lunch adult US$25/39, student US$20/34; h8am-5pm, tours 9am, 11am, 1.15pm & 3.15pm)
Costa Rica’s most famous coffee roaster offers a 90-minute bilingual tour of its plantation that includes coffee tasting and a comedic stage play about the history of coffee (kids will likely dig it). More in-depth tours are available, as are packages including transport from San José; reserve ahead. Drivers won’t be able to miss the many signs between Heredia and Barva. A large on-site gift shop and cafe sells coffee, drinks and pastries plus Costa Rica–themed gifts.
zFestivals & Events
Feria de la MascaradaCULTURAL
Every year the city hosts the Feria de la Mascarada, a tradition with roots in the colonial era. Participants don massive colorful masks (some weighing 20kg), and gather to dance and parade around the town square. Demons and devils are frequent subjects, but celebrities and politicians also feature (you haven’t lived until you’ve seen a 6m-tall Celia Cruz). Dates vary; inquire locally.
4Sleeping
oFinca Rosa BlancaINN$$$
(%2269-9392, in USA 305-395-3042; www.fincarosablanca.com; Santa Bárbara; d incl breakfast US$360-508; piWs) S
Set amid a stunning hillside coffee plantation 6km northwest of Barva, this honeymoon-ready, Gaudí-esque confection of suites and villas is cloaked in fruit trees that shade private trails. The 14 sparkling-white adobe rooms with wood-beamed ceilings and private balconies are lavishly appointed; one tops a tower with 360-degree views, reached by a winding staircase made from a tree trunk.
Shower in an artificial waterfall, take a moonlit dip in the pool or have an organic coffee scrub at the spa. Fuel up at the hotel’s restaurant, which serves fresh local produce, including eggs from the chicken coop in the garden for breakfast and Costa Rican fusion dishes like queen sea bass encrusted in homemade chorizo for dinner. Credit cards accepted. At 9am and 1pm, Finca Rosa Blanca offers a 2½-hour tour of its picturesque, 12-hectare organic coffee plantation, processing plant and roasting house. Guests hike the fields, learn the process and taste the delicious results. Outside guests can pay US$40 per person for the same tour.
San Isidro de Heredia
POP 20,500
This scenic, agrarian town northeast of San José offers all the lush greenery of the neighboring Parque Nacional Braulio Carillo, along with undulating drives over the countryside and a couple of the Central Valley’s most enjoyable tours. Light afternoon showers nearly every day make San Isidro de Heredia the rainbow capital of Costa Rica, and a fantastic place to grow (and eat) just about anything.
1Sights
Toucan Rescue RanchANIMAL SANCTUARY
(%2268-4041; http://toucanrescueranch.org; donation requested adult/6-10yr US$35/17, under 6yr free; htours by appointment 9am & 2pm Mon-Sat)
A decade ago, expat Leslie Howle and her husband, Jorge Murillo, started taking in sick and injured toucans. The couple found it hard to turn any animal away and eventually ended up with owls, sloths, monkeys, an otter, an oncilla, a weasel and more. Guests tour their picturesque grounds in the hills of San Isidro de Heredia. Call for directions or to inquire about volunteer opportunities.
TTours
oSibu ChocolateFOOD & DRINK
(%2268-1335; http://sibuchocolate.com; half-day tours per person US$28; htours 10am Tue-Sat, restaurant 11am-6pm Tue-Sat, to 4pm Sun) S
This divine chocolate tour explains the culture and history surrounding Costa Rica’s most decadent export. See cacao’s story brought to life as you sample pre-Columbian-inspired hot chocolate and other treats. Lunch and sumptuous hot chocolate can be enjoyed on the terrace surrounded by lush gardens, and a shop sells goodies to take home. Tours have a four-person minimum; call ahead.
Ingredients, such as herbs, for flavoring the chocolate and restaurant’s recipes, are grown organically at the facility. This restaurant and chocolate operation is located just 20 minutes north of downtown San José, around 1.5km off the highway to Guápiles.
4Sleeping & Eating
Toucan Rescue RanchB&B$$$
(%2268-4041; http://toucanrescueranch.org; d incl tour & breakfast US$165, extra person US$30; pW)
The local animal-rescue center also provides the best lodgings in town, with two adorable and well-constructed guesthouses just a short walk from the owls, sloths, toucans and other exotic, recovering creatures. It’s an incredibly serene setting, with a backdrop of rainforest and rolling hills, and is conveniently located just 35 minutes from San José’s international airport. Those staying in the guesthouse will witness the inner workings of the sanctuary and may even see new animals being brought in.
Casa Antigua Café & RestauranteCOSTA RICAN$
(%2268-3366; mains from US$7.50; hnoon-7pm Thu, to 9pm Fri, 8am-9pm Sat, 8am-7pm Sun)
Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in this atmospheric century-old colonial house with hardwood floors, painted ceilings, stained-glass windows, period furniture and detailed alcoving. Order a Baileys espresso and a slice of cake at the counter or enjoy casados (set meals), pastas, wraps, hamburgers, crepes and sandwiches in the unique dining rooms, some private – like you’re hosting a dinner party. It’s on the road east out of San Isidro on the way to San Josecito.
oBromelias del RíoCAFETERIA$$
(%2268-9901; www.facebook.com/cafeteriayrestaurantebromeliasdelrio; mains US$6-27, pastries from US$2; h7am-7pm)
Ensconced in a tropical garden by a mountain stream, this bakery-restaurant tempts with spiked coffee drinks (hot mocha with Baileys and chocolate syrup) and decadent sandwiches, some piled high with lomito (steak), heart of palm, avocado and gravy. Share a main and save room for dessert. It’s 50m off Hwy 32 at the Santa Elena exit to San Isidro.
Casa AzulSPANISH$$
(%2268-6908, 8376-6493; San Josécito; mains US$12-23; h5-10pm Tue-Fri, from noon Sat, noon-4pm Sun)
Tucked away just off Hwy 32 in a quaint little blue house adorned with blue curtains, antiques and hardwood floors, this Spanish–Costa Rican fusion restaurant is one of the Central Valley’s most romantic spots. Popular dishes include paella, trout, and mouthwatering medallions of lomito (tenderloin) that pair well with a bottle of cabernet.
8Getting There & Away
Transportes Arnoldo Ocampo SA buses for San José leave from a stop 100m east of San Isidro de Heredia’s central plaza. Buses for Heredia leave from in front of the MegaSuper supermarket, 100m east of the Catholic church.
San José Under US$1, 20 minutes, roughly half-hourly from 4:40am to 9:45pm Monday to Saturday, 5:30am to 9:45pm Sunday.
Heredia Under US$1, 15 minutes, roughly every 20 minutes from 4:50am to 10:15pm.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
STAYS AWAY FROM SAN JOSÉ
For many visitors to Costa Rica, a night in San José is practically obligatory at the beginning or end of every trip. But if you have a car, you can instead arrange to stay at one of the following country inns. All lie within an hour’s drive of the international airport – and most have incredible mountain scenery.
A Just outside Alajuela, Trapp Family Country Inn, Tacacori Ecolodge and Xandari Resort Hotel & Spa have verdant settings and are five to 15 minutes from the airport.
A The dreamy Finca Rosa Blanca is less than 30 minutes from the airport check-in.
A Vista Atenas B&B, only 30 minutes west of the terminal, is perched so spectacularly high above the valley you’ll think you’re flying again.
A Just 35 minutes east of the airport is Toucan Rescue Ranch, where guests sleep in comfy guesthouses steps away from sloths, owls and toucans.
Cartago Area
The riverbank setting of the city of Cartago was handpicked by Spanish governor Juan Vásquez de Coronado, who said that he had ‘never seen a more beautiful valley.’ Cartago was founded as Costa Rica’s first capital in 1563, and Coronado’s successors endowed the city with fine colonial architecture. However, the city was destroyed during a 1723 eruption of Volcán Irazú. Any remaining landmarks were toppled by earthquakes in 1841 and 1910.
Although the city was relegated to backwater status when the seat of government moved to San José in 1823, the surrounding area, particularly the Orosi Valley, flourished during the days of the coffee trade. Today, much of the region continues to be devoted to coffee production. Although Cartago no longer has the prestige of a national capital, it remains a vital commercial hub – not to mention the site of some of the country’s most important religious monuments.
8Getting There & Away
Bus stops are scattered around Cartago and routes connect to Turrialba, Orosi and San José. Train services run between San José’s Estación del Pacífico and Cartago’s downtown station.
Cartago
POP 157,800
Cartago exists mainly as a commercial and residential center, though the beauty of the surrounding mountains helps take the edge off modern life. As in other commercial towns, expect plenty of functional concrete structures. Two worthy exceptions, however, are the striking ruins of the Santiago Apóstol Parish, an ancient site home to a number of churches since 1575, and the bright white Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Los Ángeles. The latter is visible from many parts of the city – it stands out like a snowcapped mountain above a plain of one-story edifices. The city is thrown briefly into the spotlight every August, when pilgrims from every corner of the country descend on the basilica to say their most serious prayers.
1Sights
Mercado CentralMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av 1 btwn Calles 2 & 4; h6am-5:30pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun)
This old-school covered market is conveniently located right around the corner from the bus and train stations that serve San José. It’s fun just to wander the labyrinth of aisles, where you’ll find fresh produce and food items of every description.
Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Los ÁngelesCHURCH
(Calle 15 btwn Avs Central & 1)
Cartago’s most important site, and Costa Rica’s most venerated religious shrine, this basilica exudes Byzantine grace, with fine stained-glass windows, hand-painted interiors and ornate side chapels. Dating from the 1630s, the structure retains an unharmed central relic: La Negrita (the Black Virgin), a small representation of the Virgin Mary, that was found on this spot on August 2, 1635. As the story goes, when the woman who discovered the statuette tried to take it with her, it miraculously re-appeared back where she’d found it. Twice. So the townspeople built a shrine around her. In 1824 she was declared Costa Rica’s patron Virgin. She now resides on a gold, jewel-studded platform at the main altar. Each August 2, on the anniversary of the statuette’s miraculous discovery, pilgrims from every corner of the country (and beyond) walk the 22km from San José to the basilica. Many of the penitent complete the last few hundred meters of the pilgrimage on their knees.
Las Ruinas de la ParroquiaRUINS
(Iglesia del Convento; Calle Central btwn Avs Central & 2)
This now-ruined church was built in 1575 as a shrine to St James the Apostle. It was destroyed by the 1841 earthquake, rebuilt a few years later and then destroyed again in the 1910 earthquake. Today only the outer walls remain, but ‘the ruins’ are a pleasant spot for people-watching. Legend has it that the ghost of a headless priest wanders here.
4Sleeping & Eating
Los Ángeles LodgeB&B$$
(%2551-0957, 2591-4169; hotel.los.angeles@hotmail.com; Av 1 btwn Calles 13 & 15; s/d incl breakfast US$35/50; aW)
With balconies overlooking Plaza de la Basílica, this decent B&B stands out with spacious and comfortable rooms, hot showers and breakfast made to order.
La Puerta del SolCOSTA RICAN$$
(%2551-0615; Av 1 btwn Calles 13 & 15; mains US$6-13; h8:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 9pm Sun)
Located downstairs from Los Ángeles Lodge and decorated with vintage photos of Cartago, this pleasant restaurant has been around since 1957 and serves myriad Tico specialties, from ceviche (seafood marinated in lemon) to casados, along with breakfasts (rice, beans and eggs), chicken salads, pastas, burgers and sandwiches.
8Information
Banco de Costa Rica (Av Central btwn Calles 5 & 7) and Banco Popular (Av 2; h8:45am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8.15-11.30am Sat) have ATMs.
Hospital Max Peralta (%2550-1999; www.ccss.sa.cr/hospitales; Av 6 btwn Calles 2 & 4) Emergency and medical services.
8Getting There & Away
BUS
Bus stops are scattered around town. Destinations include the following:
Orosi (Autotransportes Mata Irola) About US$1, 45 minutes, every 15 to 30 minutes between 5:15am and 10:25pm; departs from Calle 3 between Avs 2 and 4.
San José (Lumaca) About US$1.50, 50 minutes, every 15 minutes between 4:35am and 11pm; departs from the terminal on Calle 6 between Avs 3 and 7.
Turrialba (Transtusa) US$1.60, one hour 20 minutes, every 20 minutes to an hour between 6:15am and 11pm weekdays (less frequently on weekends); departs from Av 4 between Calles 5 and 7.
TRAIN
Train services run between San José’s Estación del Pacífico and Cartago’s downtown station (Av 3 btwn Calles 4 & 6). The one-hour trip costs around US$1. Trains run Monday to Friday from 5:25am to 7:05pm every 30 minutes to an hour in a schedule weighted toward morning and afternoon commuting hours. On Saturday trains run to San José every hour until 1:30pm. See www.incofer.go.cr for up-to-date timetable info.
Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú
Looming on the horizon 19km northeast of Cartago, 3432m Irazú – which derives its name from the indigenous word ara-tzu (thunder point) – is the largest and highest active volcano in Costa Rica and one of the few you can currently hike around. In 1723 the Spanish governor of the area, Diego de la Haya Fernández, watched as the volcano unleashed its destruction on the city of Cartago (one of the craters is named in his honor). Since the 18th century, 15 major eruptions have been recorded. At the time of research the volcano was slumbering peacefully.
The summit is a bare landscape of volcanic ash craters. The principal crater is 1050m across and 300m deep; the adjacent Diego de la Haya Crater is 690m across and 80m deep; and the shallowest, Playa Hermosa Crater, is being colonized by sparse vegetation. There’s also a pyroclastic cone, consisting of rocks fragmented by volcanic activity.
TTours
Tours are arranged by a variety of San José operators and cost US$50 to US$70 for a half-day, and up to US$100 for a full day combined with lunch and visits to sights such as the Lankester Gardens or the Orosi Valley. Tours from hotels in Orosi (US$30 to US$45) can also be arranged – these may include lunch and visits to the basilica in Cartago or sights around the Orosi Valley.
5Eating
Restaurant 1910COSTA RICAN$$
(%2536-6063; mains US$10-26; h11:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat, to 6:30pm Sun; pW)
On the road to Irazú (Rte 219), 300m north of the Christ statue marking the Guayabo turnoff, is this homey spot with a glass-walled deck. It’s overpriced but worth a stop to see its collection of photographs documenting the 1910 earthquake that completed the destruction of colonial Cartago. Expect a long list of Tico specialties and a sumptuous Sunday buffet (adult/child US$20/11).
8Information
The ranger station (%2299-5800; park US$15, parking US$2; h8am-3:30pm) at the park’s entrance, 1.5km before the summit, is where you pay your entry and parking fees.
8Getting There & Away
A daily bus to Irazú (roughly US$10) departs from San José at 8am and arrives at the summit around 10am. The bus departs from Irazú at 12:30pm, taking just over two hours to return to San José, with one change in Cartago.
A round-trip taxi from Cartago to the summit will cost about US$50; negotiate with drivers to allow you an hour to explore up top.
If you’re in a group, renting a car is the best deal, as you can get to the park early, before the skies cloud over and the crowds arrive. From Cartago, take Hwy 8, which begins at the northeastern corner of the plaza and continues 31km to the summit. The road is well signposted.
Valle de Orosi
This straight-out-of-a-storybook river valley is famous for mountain vistas, a lake formed by a hydroelectric facility, a truly wild national park and coffee – lots and lots of coffee. A well-paved 32km loop winds through a landscape of rolling hills terraced with coffee plantations and valleys dotted with pastoral villages, all set against the backdrop of volcanoes Irazú and Turrialba. If you have a rental car (or good legs for cycling) you’re in for a treat, though it’s still possible to navigate most of the loop via public buses.
The loop road starts 8km southeast of Cartago in Paraíso, heads south to Orosi, then doubles back northeast and west around the artificial Lago de Cachí, passing the historic church at Ujarrás en route back to Paraíso. Alternatively, from Orosi you can branch south into Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte, an end-of-the-road national park with superb river and mountain scenery.
8Getting There & Away
Autotransportes Mata Irola (%2533-1916) runs buses (roughly US$1) every 30 minutes to Paraíso (20 minutes) from 4:15am to 8pm weekdays and 5:30am to 9pm Saturday and Sunday, and to Cartago (45 minutes) from 4:30am to 8pm weekdays, 5:30am to 9pm Saturday and 8:30am to 10pm Sunday. From Cartago you can transfer for buses to San José. The main bus stops sit along Orosi’s main street, next to the square.
SPANISH SCHOOLS IN THE CENTRAL VALLEY
Spanish schools usually do packages including homestays, meals and daily language lessons.
A Centro Panamericano de Idiomas
A Intensa
Paraíso Area
Though the village of Paraíso isn’t all that its name implies, it does lead to the wonderful Valle de Orosi beyond. The area’s attractions include the tranquil Lankester Gardens and the spectacular Mirador Orosi.
1Sights
Mirador OrosiVIEWPOINT
(h6am-4.30pm) F
Heading south from Paraíso toward Orosi you’ll hit Mirador Orosi, a big green space with a jaw-dropping scenic overlook complete with toilets, barbecue facilities, cultivated flowerbeds and a secure parking lot. Bring your camera and food for a picnic.
Lankester GardensGARDENS
(%2511-7939, 2511-749; www.jbl.ucr.ac.cr; adult/student US$10/7.50; h8:30am-4:30pm)
The University of Costa Rica runs the exceptional 11-hectare Lankester Gardens, started as a private garden by British orchid enthusiast Charles Lankester in 1917, then turned over to the university for public administration in 1973. Orchids are the big draw here: there are more than 1000 varieties, at their showiest in April. The garden is wheelchair accessible. Find it about 5km west of Paraíso on the road to Cartago; look for a blue sign with an image of an orchid. There’s also a Japanese garden, as well as areas full of bromeliads, palms, heliconias and other tropical plants. Guided tours in English and Spanish are available by prior arrangement.
2Activities
Finca La Flor de ParaísoVOLUNTEERING
(%2534-8003; www.la-flor.jimdo.com; per day US$28) S
Immerse yourself in the Central Valley’s rural culture with a stay at Finca La Flor de Paraíso, outside Cartago. This not-for-profit organic farm operated by the Association for the Development of Environmental and Human Consciousness (Asodecah) has a volunteer-work program that will allow you to get your hands dirty on projects related to agriculture, reforestation, animal husbandry and medicinal-herb cultivation.
The cost of the volunteer-work program, including room and board (in simple wood cabinas and dormitories), is US$25 per day. Vacationers can arrange guided visits (per person US$5, plus snack/lunch US$1.50/2.50) or overnight stays (per person including three meals US$50). Family rates are available; reservations necessary.
TTours
Finca CristinaTOURS
(%2574-6426, in US 203-549-1945; www.cafecristina.com; guided tours per person US$15; hby appointment)
Finca Cristina, 2km east of Paraíso on the road to Turrialba at the end of a short dirt track, is an organic coffee farm. Linda and Ernie have been farming in Costa Rica since 1977, and a two-hour tour of their microprocessing plant is a fantastic introduction to the processes of organic coffee growing, harvesting and roasting. The tour finishes with a cup of their delicious coffee.
8Getting There & Away
Autotransportes Mata Irola runs buses (fares around US$1 for a single journey) back and forth between Orosi and Paraíso every 30 minutes. The trip takes about 20 minutes and involves multiple stops. Buses run from Paraíso between 5.40am and 10.50pm weekdays and from 5.55am Saturday and Sunday.
Orosi
POP 9850
Named for a Huetar chief who lived here at the time of the Spanish conquest, Orosi charmed colonists in the 18th century with its perfect climate, rich soil and wealth of water – from hot springs to bracing waterfalls. So, in the typical fashion of the day, the colonists decided to take the property off Orosi’s hands. Today the area remains picturesque – and it’s a good spot to revel in beautiful scenery and a small-town atmosphere.
1Sights
Iglesia de San José OrosiCHURCH
Orosi is one of the few colonial-era towns to survive Costa Rica’s frequent earthquakes, which have thankfully also spared the photogenic village church. Built in the mid-1700s, it is the oldest religious site still in use in Costa Rica. The roof of the church is a combination of thatched cane and ceramic tiling, while the carved-wood altar is adorned with religious paintings of Mexican origin.
Museo de San José OrosiMUSEUM
(%2533-3051; adult/child US$1/0.50; h1-5pm Tue-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun)
Adjacent to Orosi’s church, this small museum displays interesting examples of Spanish-colonial religious art and artifacts, some of which date back to the 17th century.
2Activities
Aventuras OrosiRAFTING
(%2533-4000; www.facebook.com/aventurasorosicr; rafting per person from US$75; h9am-4pm)
Operated by the charming Luis, who served as a guide for the venerable Ríos Tropicales rafting company for years, this small outfit organizes canopy tours and rafting expeditions as well as custom itineraries. The office is on the main street, south of the park.
Monte SkyHIKING
(%2228-0010; www.facebook.com/MonteSkyME; day entry US$8, overnight stay from US$35)
About 5km south of Orosi, high in the hills off the road to Tapantí, this 536-hectare private reserve teems with 290 bird species and offers hiking trails with waterfalls and jaw-dropping vistas. Day entry includes use of all cabin facilities, including kitchen and barbecue area. Call for directions; a 4WD is recommended for the 3.5km dirt road up to the cabin. The folks at Monte Sky or OTIAC in Orosi can help arrange a 4WD transfer for your visit. Overnight stays include accommodation in one of the four rooms (sleeping up to 16). Large groups can pre-order meals and get group prices.
CCourses
Montaña Linda runs one of the most affordable Spanish-language schools in the country; check the website for current prices and schedules. Located 300m south of Orosi’s plaza.
4Sleeping
Montaña LindaHOSTEL$
(%2533-3640; www.montanalinda.com; dm US$9, guesthouse s/d/tr/q US$30/30/35/40, s/d/tr/q without bathroom US$15/22/33/40; piW)
A short walk southwest of the bus stop, this welcoming, chilled-out budget option has three tidy dorms and eight private rooms surrounding a homey terrace with flowers, hammocks and a wood-heated hot tub. All share a guest kitchen and six bathrooms with hot showers. Owners provide an exceptional information packet highlighting local attractions, including hot springs, waterfalls and more.
Orosi LodgeINN$$
(%2533-3578; www.orosilodge.com; d/tr US$63/73, chalet d US$100, extra person US$15; pW)
This quiet haven, run by a friendly couple, has bright rooms with wood-beamed ceilings, tile floors, minibar, coffeemaker and free organic coffee. Most rooms face a lovely garden courtyard with a fountain, and one is wheelchair accessible. Delicious, wholesome continental or rustic breakfasts are served for US$8 at the colorfully decorated cafe with scenic balcony seating.
Rancho Río PerlasRESORT$$$
(%2533-3341; www.rio-perlas.com; r for 1/2/3 people incl breakfast US$90/140/210; pWs)
With trout-filled lakes, a system of thermal waters and 2km of hiking trails, this picturesque mountain resort is a top sanctuary for locals and visitors looking to escape city life. Nicer rooms offer artificial fireplaces and Jacuzzi tubs. A conference center and chapel make this a popular spot for weddings and other events.
5Eating & Drinking
Batidos La UchuvaJUICE BAR$
(%8603-8373; batidos US$2-4; h9am-5pm Tue-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
At this simple stall 100m south of Banco Nacional, owner André whips up flavorful batidos (fruit shakes) made with milk, water or yogurt. Choose from his long list of creative combinations, or invent your own.
Panadería SuizaBAKERY$
(%8706-6777; www.costarica-moto.com/caf-y-panaderia-suiza; pastries from US$1, breakfast US$6-7; h6am-5pm Tue-Sat, to noon Sun)
Starting at the crack of dawn, ebullient expat Franzisca serves healthy breakfasts and snacks at her main-street bakery, 100m south of Banco Nacional. On offer are sweet and savory pastries, wholegrain breads, and lunch packets for outdoors enthusiasts.
She also rents out two charming cabins (US$40 to US$70), motorcycles (US$55 to US$85 per day) and scooters ($50 per day).
Cafetería 1743CAFE$
(%2201-6665; snacks from US$2; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun)
This simple cafe, with white walls, black chairs and blackboards displaying the specials, is a recent addition to Orosi. It sits right on the southwestern corner of the square and sells shakes heaped with cream, fresh smoothies, sandwiches, cakes and plenty of coffee. Pull up a seat on the veranda and watch village life go by.
Rancho OrosiCOSTA RICAN$
(%2533-1061; www.facebook.com/RestauranteRanchoOrosi; mains US$6-13; h11am-8pm)
Just a few hundred meters out of town, on the road heading south, this simple open-air restaurant has lanterns and dark wooden benches. An English and Spanish menu displays simple and fresh homemade dishes centering on rice and meat, fajitas, spaghetti or trout.
Pizzeria a la leña il GiardinoPIZZA$$
(%2533-2022; pizzas from US$10; hnoon-9pm Thu-Tue)
This cute country-style pizzeria has a proper stone pizza oven where the chef makes tasty thin-crust pizzas – the mozzarella, tomato and basil is spot on. The place is decorated with hardwood paneling and farm equipment. Out front is a pretty garden in which to sample some of the many craft beers on offer.
Restaurante CotoCOSTA RICAN$$
(%2533-3032; mains US$5-17.50; h8:30am-9pm)
Established in 1952, this family-run eatery on the north side of the soccer field dishes out good típico food, particularly the whole fried fish, in a wood-beamed dining room with open-air seating. It’s a great place to enjoy mountain views and the goings-on about town.
THERMAL SPRINGS
Being in a volcanic region means that Orosi has the perk of thermal springs. Though not nearly on the scale of the steaming-hot waters found near Fortuna, Orosi does offer a pair of warm-water pool complexes. Balneario de Águas Termales Orosi (%2533-2156; www.balnearioaguastermalesorosi.com; US$6; h7:30am-4pm Wed-Mon) is the more centrally located of the two, with four pools of varying size flanked by grassy expanses and a shaded bar-restaurant terrace. Los Patios (%2533-3009; US$6; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun) is a larger complex 1.5km south of town, whose waters include a 43°C (110°F) therapeutic pool suitable for adults only.
8Information
OTIAC (Orosi Tourist Information; %2533-3640; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sun; W) is run by multilingual long-term residents Toine and Sara. This exceptionally helpful organization functions as an information center, cafe, cultural hall and book exchange. Staff can help arrange tours and are a good source of information about volunteer and teaching opportunities. Find it 200m south of the park and one block west of the main road.
More information on the area is available on the village website: www.orosivalley.com.
8Getting There & Away
The drive into Orosi is a pretty one, as Rte 224 from Paraiso snakes down the valley with gorgeous views of the mountains.
Autotransportes Mata Irola buses run between Orosi and Paraíso (roughly US$1, 20 minutes, every 30 minutes from 4.15am to 8pm weekdays and 5.30am to 9pm Saturday and Sunday).
Services to Cartago (45 minutes) run from 4:30am to 8pm weekdays, 5:30am to 9pm Saturday and 8.30am to 10pm Sunday. From Cartago you can transfer for buses to San José.
The main bus stop sits along Orosi’s main street, next to the square.
Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte
Protecting the lush northern slopes of the Cordillera de Talamanca, this 580-sq-km national park (%2206-5615; adult/6-12yr US$10/5; h8am-4pm; c) is the wettest in Costa Rica. Known simply as Tapantí, the park protects wild and mossy country that’s fed by literally hundreds of rivers. Waterfalls abound, vegetation is thick and the wildlife is prolific, though not always easy to see because of the rugged terrain. In 2000 the park was expanded to include the infamous Cerro de la Muerte (Mountain of Death), a precipitous peak that marks the highest point on the Interamericana and the northernmost extent of páramo, a highland shrub and tussock-grass habitat – most commonly found in the Andes – that shelters a variety of rare bird species.
2Activities
Walking and nature-spotting are the main ways to spend your time here. Rain gear is advisable year-round.
Wildlife-Watching
More than 300 bird species have been recorded in the park, including hummingbirds, parrots, toucans, trogons and eagles. The birdwatching opportunities here are world class, as it’s possible to spot hundreds of varieties in this small area. Though rarely sighted due to the thick vegetation, monkeys, coatis, pacas, tayras and even pumas, ocelots and oncillas are also present.
Hiking
A well-graded dirt road runs into the park from the information center, dead-ending at a mirador (viewing platform) that affords broad views across the valley. Three signed trails branch off from this road: the 1.2km Sendero Oropéndola, which heads downhill to a picnic area and then follows the banks of the Río Grande de Orosi for a few hundred meters before looping back uphill; the 1.5km Sendero La Pava to La Catarata, which descends from a common trailhead to boulder-strewn river beaches and affords excellent views of a dramatic waterfall across the valley; and the 3km Sendero Natural Árboles Caídos, which climbs steeply uphill from the main road before descending to rejoin it further west – there are no services on this route, and hiking shoes and water are musts. Tapantí is not open to backcountry hiking.
4Sleeping & Eating
Kiri Mountain LodgeLODGE$
(%8394-6286; www.kirilodge.net; s/d incl breakfast from US$35/45; pW)
About 2km before the park entrance, surrounded by 50 mossy hectares of land, Kiri has six rustic cabinas with intermittent wi-fi and hot water (but no fans), and a restaurant specializing in trout. Trails wind into the nearby Reserva Forestal Río Macho.
Kiri Mountain Lodge RestaurantCOSTA RICAN$$
(%8394-6286; casados US$8-12; h7am-8pm)
This charming place specializes in trout, which can be caught in several well-stocked ponds and served how you like it. Call ahead to check it’s open, as its hours vary.
8Information
Visitors receive a simple trail map upon paying fees at the park entrance, which doubles as the Information Center (%2206-5615; park entrance adult/6-12yr US$10/5; h8am-4pm).
8Getting There & Away
With your own car you can drive the 11km from Orosi to the park entrance; about halfway along, near the town of Purisil, the route becomes a bumpy gravel road (4WD recommended but not required).
Renting a bike in Orosi is another good option; the ride to the park takes about an hour. Buses (about US$1, 30 minutes) only make it as far as Purisil, 5km from the entrance; they leave Orosi at 7:15am, 11:45am, 1:45pm and 4:45pm and return at 8am, noon, 3pm and 5pm. Taxis charge about US$20 to US$30 one way from Orosi to the park.
Orosi to Paraíso
From Orosi, a scenic loop circles the artificial Lago de Cachí. The lake was created following the construction of the Represa de Cachí (Cachí Dam), which supplies San José and the majority of the Central Valley with electricity. About 3km past the dam, at the foot of a long, steep hill, you’ll find the abandoned village of Ujarrás and the ruins of its 17th-century church.
1Sights
Casa del SoñadorGALLERY
(Dreamer’s House; %2577-1186, 8955-7799; carvings from US$10; h9am-5pm) F
This artisanal woodworking studio is run by Hermes and Miguel Quesada, sons of renowned Tico carver Macedonio Quesada. The brothers maintain the campesino (peasant farmer) tradition of whittling gnarled coffee-wood branches into ornate religious figures and whimsical characters. Their workshop displays sculptures ranging from mystical faces and masks to abstract carvings of all sizes, with pieces available for purchase. The studio is on the main road, 1.5km south of the dam.
Ruins of UjarrásRUINS
(%2299-5918; h8am-4:30pm) F
The village of Ujarrás was damaged by an 1833 flood and then abandoned. All that remains are the crumbling walls of Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Limpia Concepción, a 1693 stone church once home to a miraculous painting of the Virgin. According to folklore, the relic refused to be moved, forcing clerics to build a church around it. But after floods and earthquakes, the painting conceded to move to Paraíso, leaving the church ruins in a rambling park.
Every year, usually on the Sunday closest to April 14, there is a procession of 3000 to 4000 people from Paraíso to the ruins, where Mass, food and music help celebrate the day of La Virgen de Ujarrás. The church’s grassy grounds are a popular picnicking spot on Sunday afternoon, but go in the middle of the week and chances are you’ll have them all to yourself. There are bathroom facilities in the park.
To reach the village, turn left off the main road at the ‘Ujarrás’ sign and wind about 1km gently downhill, passing the well-signposted Restaurant La Pipiola en route.
2Activities
Escalada CachíCLIMBING
(%8867-8259; www.escaladacachi.com; climbing from US$30; h8am-4pm Sat & Sun, by appointment with 4-person minimum Mon-Fri)
Escalada Cachí is a fun climbing spot with 39 routes for different abilities. The US$30 fee includes equipment rental, as much climbing as you can crank out, and a soak in a lovely river-diverted pool afterwards. Book ahead of your visit and bring your own lunch/snacks.
Located on a challenging dirt road off Rte 225 when heading north of the town of San Jeronimo, the climbing wall can be tricky to find; call ahead for directions (though note that the route requires a 4WD and a lot of skill) or to get picked up. Alternatively, park where the dirt road branches off and hike the 2.2km down (don’t leave anything in your car). Call for detailed directions or you’re likely to get lost.
4Sleeping & Eating
The area is home to two peaceful mountaintop retreats. Private transportation is a must to reach them.
Cabañas de Montaña Piedras AlbasCABINA$$
(%8697-3218, 8883-6449; d cabinas from US$60; pWs)
These fully equipped, bright wooden cabinas in the hills beyond Cachí are a great choice if you’re here to really slow down. Accommodations come with kitchen, cable TV and private deck with views, and there are hiking trails. Your own transportation is a must; find the turnoff across the main road from La Casona del Cafetal.
oHotel QuelitalesBUNGALOW$$$
(%2577-2222; www.hotelquelitales.com; junior ste from US$86, ste incl breakfast from US$130; pW) S
This idyllically sited collection of contemporary-chic bungalows features spacious rooms with wooden floors, ultra-comfy mattresses, indoor and outdoor solar-powered rain showers, private decks (some with waterfall views) and large wall canvases of the hummingbirds, ladybugs, toucans and other critters for whom the cabins are named. The on-site restaurant serves delicious trout and other Tico specialties.
At the time of research the owner was planning yoga and meditation sessions by the waterfall. Meanwhile, birdwatchers will be in their element – you can spot more than 300 species in this area.
La Casona del CafetalCOSTA RICAN$$
(%2577-1414; www.lacasonadelcafetal.com; mains US$8-29; h11:30am-5pm, to 4pm Sun; c)
It’s all about the beautiful setting at this charming restaurant situated in the middle of a coffee plantation, with calming views of the Lago de Cachí. Specialties include fresh river trout and coffee-laced desserts, plus crepes and flans. It’s especially popular with local families on buffet Sundays. There’s a small playground, as well as short trails around the lagoon.
The restaurant is near the town of Cachí, on the left-hand side of the road about 2km past the dam when you’re heading southeast.
8Getting There & Away
This stretch is best explored by car, bicycle, scooter or motorcycle – and it’s worth exploring, as this is beautiful countryside. After Ujarrás, the route continues west for a few more kilometers to rejoin the main road at Paraíso.
Turrialba Area
In the vicinity of Turrialba, at an elevation of 650m above sea level, the Río Reventazón gouges a mountain pass through the Cordillera Central. In the 1880s this geological quirk allowed the ‘Jungle Train’ between San José and Puerto Limón to roll through, and the mountain village of Turrialba grew prosperous from the coffee trade. Later, the first highway linking the capital to the coast exploited this same quirk. Turrialba thrived.
However, things changed by the early 1990s, when the straighter, smoother Hwy 32 through Guápiles was completed and an earthquake shut down the railway for good. Suddenly, Turrialba found itself off the beaten path. Even so, the area remains a key agricultural center, renowned for its strong coffee, ubiquitous cheese and Central America’s best white-water rafting. To the north, the area is home to two worthy sites: the majestic Volcán Turrialba and the archaeological site of Guayabo.
8Getting There & Away
Regular and reliable buses serve the Turrialba area. But if you’d like the freedom to explore these twisting mountain roads, renting a car is a great idea.
Turrialba
POP 31,100
When the railway shut down in 1991, commerce slowed, but Turrialba nonetheless remained a regional agricultural center where local coffee planters could bring their crops to market. And with tourism on the rise in Costa Rica in the 1990s, this modest mountain town soon became known as the gateway to some of the best white-water rafting on the planet. By the early 2000s, Turrialba was a hotbed of international rafters looking for Class V thrills. For now, the Río Pacuare runs on, but its future is uncertain.
2Activities
Centro Agronómico Tropical de InvestigaciónGARDENS
(Catie; Center for Tropical Agronomy Research & Education; %2556-2700, 2558-2000; www.catie.ac.cr; adult/student/youth US$10/8/6, guided tours US$25-50; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Catie’s sprawling grounds, 2km east of Turrialba, encompass 10 sq km dedicated to tropical agricultural research and education. Agronomists from all over the world recognize this as one of the most important centers in the tropics. You’ll need to make reservations for one of several guided tours through laboratories, greenhouses, a seed bank, experimental plots and one of the most extensive libraries of tropical agriculture literature in the world. Alternatively, pick up a map and take a self-guided walk.
EcoaventurasOUTDOORS
(%2556-7171, 8868-3938; www.ecoaventuras.co.cr; white-water rafting packages per person from US$70)
Ecoaventuras offers white-water rafting on the Ríos Pacuare and Pejibaye, along with horseback riding (from US$50) and mountain biking (prices depend on tour length and rider experience). Three-day rafting experiences include all meals, accommodation, equipment and a zipline tour (inquire for prices). It’s 100m north and 100m west of the Rawlings Factory.
Costa Rica RíosRAFTING
(%2556-8664, in USA & Canada 888-434-0776; www.costaricarios.com; Calle 1)
Offers week-long rafting trips that must be booked in advance. An eight-day kayaking and canoeing trip costs US$1699 per person (based on double occupancy), while the adventure-tour package, including rafting, ziplining, snorkeling, surfing and mountain biking, costs US$2899 per person (also based on double occupancy). The office is located near Av 6.
DAMNING THE RIVERS?
Considered one of the most beautiful white-water-rafting rivers in the world, the wild Río Pacuare became the first federally protected river in Central America in 1985. Within two years, however, Costa Rica’s national power company, the Instituto Costarricense de Electricidad (ICE), unveiled plans to build a 200m gravity dam at the conveniently narrow and screamingly scenic ravine of Dos Montañas.
The dam would be the cornerstone of the massive Siquirres hydroelectric project, which would include four dams in total, linked by a 10km-long tunnel. If built, rising waters on the lower Pacuare would not only flood 12km of rapids up to the Tres Equis put-in but also parts of the Reserva Indígena Awari and a huge swath of primary rainforest where some 800 animal species have been recorded.
The project was intended to help ICE keep up with the country’s rapidly increasing power demands. But as the proposal moved from speculation to construction, a coalition of local landowners, indigenous leaders, conservation groups and, yep, white-water-rafting outfits organized against it. (Rafael Gallo, of the Fundación Ríos Tropicales, the charitable arm of the venerable rafting company, was a key figure in this fight.)
The group filed for the first environmental impact assessment (EIA) in the region’s history – and won. The move required ICE to seek an independent study of the dam’s environmental impact and economic feasibility, effectively stalling its construction. In the meantime, organizers were able to draw international attention to the situation. In 2005, residents of the Turrialba area held a plebiscite on the issue of the dam. Of the 10,000 residents polled, 97% gave the project a thumbs down – a resounding ‘No.’
Although the nearby Río Reventazón lost a third of its Class V rapids due to the construction of dams, the Pacuare recently saw its greatest victory. On August 29, 2015, President Luis Guillermo Solís signed a decree banning hydroelectric projects of 500 kilowatts or more from the river for the next 25 years. Although the Pacuare seems safe for now, another decree by a future president (with elections looming at the time of research) could again leave it unprotected.
CCourses
Spanish by the RiverLANGUAGE
(%2556-7380, in USA 1-877-268-3730; www.spanishatlocations.com; 10/30hr per week US$160/300, homestay/hostel bed US$22/12)
A five-minute bus ride from Turrialba, this school offers accommodation along with weekly Spanish classes for varying levels of fluency.
Adventure Education CenterLANGUAGE
(%in USA 800-237-2730; www.facebook.com/AECSpanishInstitute/; 1 week without/with homestay US$325/490)
Combine Spanish classes and white-water rafting at this Turrialba school that also offers medical Spanish. A week’s group language instruction entails 20 hours of lessons.
TTours
Loco’sRAFTING
(%8704-3535, 2556-6035, in USA 707-703-5935; www.whiteh2o.com)
Loco’s takes guests on wild rides of varying difficulty down the Ríos Pacuare and Reventazón. The outfit also runs camping trips on the Pacuare, plus canyoning and rappelling adventures. A day of rafting starts at around US$70 per person, depending on group size; prices include lunch and transport.
ExplornaturaRAFTING
(%2556-0111, in USA & Canada 866-571-2443; www.explornatura.com/en/; Av 4 btwn Calles 2 & 4)
Offers rafting, mountain-biking and horseback-riding tours. A rafting day trip on the Pacuare is US$85 per person, a canyoneering and canopy tour US$75 per person.
4Sleeping
In town you’ll find a solid mix of budget hostels and midrange hotels. Around the Turrialba area there are some stellar hotels that bring guests close to nature. All can arrange tours and rafting trips.
4In Town
oCasa de Lis HostelHOSTEL$
(%2556-4933; www.hostelcasadelis.com; Av Central; dm/d/tr/q US$14/45/60/70, under 3yr free; W)
Hands down Turrialba’s best value, this sweet, centrally located place is a traveler’s dream. Spotless dorms and doubles with comfy mattresses and reading lamps are complemented by a fully equipped kitchen, a volcano-view roof terrace, a pretty back garden, fantastic information displays and a friendly atmosphere. There’s free tea and coffee in the mornings, a book exchange and board games. It’s near Calle 2.
Hotel InteramericanoHOTEL$
(%2556-0142; www.hotelinteramericano.com; Av 1; s/d/tr/q US$25/35/50/65, without bathroom US$15/22/33/44; pW)
On the south side of the old train tracks is this basic 20-room hotel, traditionally regarded by rafters as the meeting place in Turrialba. The collection of basic rooms includes some with private bathroom, some with shared bathroom and many that combine bunks with regular beds. There’s also a new shared kitchen, plus TVs in some of the rooms.
The friendly owner will help book adventure and rafting day trips. The hotel’s near Calle 1.
Hotel WageliaHOTEL$$
(%2556-1566; www.hotelwageliaturrialba.com; Av 4 btwn Calles 2 & 4; s/d incl breakfast US$55/80; pW)
Simple, modern and clean rooms come with cable TV and face a quiet interior courtyard. A restaurant serves Tico specialties, while the pleasant terrace bar is a good place for a drink and has wi-fi.
Turrialba B&BB&B$$
(%2556-6651; www.turribb.com; Calle 1; d/t/q incl breakfast from US$85/100/115, extra person US$10; paW)
If you’re seeking a bit of tranquility in downtown Turrialba (a rare commodity!), this B&B may be worth a look for its lovely garden patio with pool table and hammocks. Rooms are spacious, with hardwood furniture, and the living room has a TV and a good collection of paperbacks. There’s also a shared kitchen and a small bar. It’s north of Av 6.
4Around Turrialba
Wagelia Espino Blanco LodgeLODGE$$
(%2556-1029, 2556-0616; www.wageliaespinoblancolodge.com; r incl breakfast US$118, extra person US$15; pW) S
High above Turrialba, this 10-bungalow ecolodge sits on 30 hectares of forest land. The quaint and well-constructed cabins are without electricity, TVs or distractions from the serenity of the place, which also features a small amphitheater, a poets’ corner, a charming restaurant (the US$20 buffet includes main, drink and dessert; book ahead) and seven hiking trails of vary-ing difficulty.
The lodge runs three- to four-hour nature tours for US$35 per person including lunch. There’s wi-fi in the bar but not in the rooms. From Turrialba, the lodge is about a 20-minute drive north up winding Hwy 230. The roads can be tricky – call for directions.
Turrialtico LodgeLODGE$$
(%2538-1111; www.turrialtico.com; d incl breakfast US$58-75; pW)
Commanding dramatic, sweeping views of the Río Reventazón valley, this Tico-run lodge in an old farmhouse 9km east of Turrialba (off the highway to Siquirres) offers 18 attractive, polished-wood-panel rooms decorated with local artwork. Rooms in the reception building share a large terrace and sitting area, and a pleasant open-air restaurant (mains US$5 to US$18) serves up country cooking.
oRancho NaturalistaLODGE$$$
(%8704-3217; www.ranchonaturalista.net; r per person incl 3 meals US$194; pi)
About 1.3km south of Tuis and 900m above sea level, this small lodge on 50 hectares of land is a must-do for birdwatchers. More than 450 species have been recorded in the area (250 from the lodge’s balcony alone). The 14 homey rooms in the lodge are complemented by a cluster of private casitas, surrounded by pretty landscaped grounds.
Birdwatchers can sit on the big wooden veranda with a coffee and watch hummingbirds approach the many feeders. Delicious meals include organic beef and pork from the cows and pigs raised on site. Staff are friendly and the lodge has a knowledgeable billingual private guide, who can be booked from US$50 per trip (price for up to five people) to accompany you along the surrounding trails, or you can walk them yourself.
Casa TurireHOTEL$$$
(%2531-1111, in USA 877-750-6855; www.hotelcasaturire.com; d standard/ste/master ste incl breakfast US$168/288/452, additional person US$28-62, child under 3yr free, child 4-12yr US$28; paWs) S
This elegant three-story plantation inn has 16 graceful, well-appointed rooms with high ceilings, wood floors and wrought-iron beds; a massive master suite comes with a Jacuzzi and excellent views of the coffee and macadamia-nut plantations in the distance. Adding icing to the cake are spa services, a restaurant and bar, horseback riding, birdwatching, and kayaking on the on-site lake. A kids’ pool and on-site playground will please younger visitors.
Take the La Suiza/Tuis turnoff from Hwy 10, head south for 2.3km, then follow signs an additional 1.4km down a dirt road to the hotel.
5Eating
Those on a budget will have no problem finding cheap meals in Turrialba; if you’re looking to make an evening of it, there’s the choice of Asian, fusion, Costa Rican or barbecue food. There are plenty of supermarkets for self-caterers, too.
MaracuyáCAFE$
(%2556-2021; www.facebook.com/maracuya2012; Calle 2; frozen coffee around US$4, mains US$5-7; h2-9:30pm Wed-Mon; v)
This bright-walled cafe north of Av 10 serves up one of the best coffee treats in the country – a frozen caffeine concoction with gooey maracuyá (passion fruit) syrup and crunchy seeds. Dishes include veggie wraps, creative salads, fried chicken and chips, and Latin American favorites such as patacones (fried plantains).
La FeriaCOSTA RICAN$
(%8378-7979, 2556-0386, 2556-5550; www.facebook.com/RestauranteLaFeria; Calle 6; mains US$5-14; h11am-9:30pm Wed-Mon, to 2:30pm Tue; v)
This unremarkable-looking eatery has friendly service and excellent, reasonably priced home cooking. Sometimes the kitchen gets a bit backed up, but the hearty casados (typical dishes with beans, rice, a small salad and a choice of protein) are well worth the wait. Caribbean chicken, salads, pasta and red snapper are also available. Find the place north of Av 4.
Restaurant Betico MataBARBECUE$
(%2556-8640; Hwy 10; gallos US$2, mains US$6; h11am-midnight Mon-Fri, to late Sat & Sun)
This carnivores’ delight is at the southern end of town. Its cafeteria style isn’t pretty, but you can’t beat the good-value gallos (open-face tacos on corn tortillas) piled with succulent, fresh-grilled meats including beef, chicken, sausage or pork, all soaked in the special house marinade. It all goes smashingly well with an ice-cold beer.
Check your bill carefully here, as addition errors have been known to happen.
oWok & RollASIAN$$
(%2556-6756; www.facebook.com/Wok-Roll-489594887746705; Calle 1; mains US$9-16; h11am-10pm Wed-Mon)
Pan-Asian cuisine fills the menu at this eatery near the main square. Enjoy sushi rolls and sashimi, teriyaki or sweet-and-sour chicken, Thai curry, wontons and other Asian favorites, plus tempura ice cream for dessert. Wash it all down with homemade mint lemonade and honey-sweetened jasmine tea.
More Than WordsTHAI, ITALIAN$$
(%2556-1362; www.facebook.com/morethanwords888; small/large pizzas from US$8/15, mains from US$10; h11am-10pm Tue-Thu, to 11pm Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun)
With a large bar at its center, this restaurant opposite the church in the main square is the new venture from the owners of Wok & Roll. Service can be slow, but the dishes are satisfying. The diverse menu has freshly made pizzas, pasta dishes, New York steaks and interesting creations like wantacos (a hybrid wanton-taco stuffed with marinated chicken and salad).
Ask about upcoming live events, from music to comedy.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Loco’s Bar and RestaurantBAR
(%2556-3500; www.facebook.com/locosrestauranteybar; drinks from US$2, dishes from US$4; h2pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri, noon-2am Sat)
This new bar, from the owners of the Loco’s adventure outfit, is where rafters end up after an adrenaline-fueled day on the rivers. Things might get lively with brightly colored cocktails, Jägermeister, B-52s and tequila shots, but it’s a decent late-lunch and dinner spot, too. Bites include guacamole and nachos, mozzarella sticks, fajitas, ceviche and mixed plates.
8Information
There’s no official tourist office, but most hotels and rafting outfits can organize tours, accommodation and transportation throughout the region.
Banco de Costa Rica (cnr Av Central & Calle 3; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Has 24-hour ATMs dispensing dollars and colones.
DON’T MISS
WHITE-WATER RAFTING IN THE CENTRAL VALLEY
The Turrialba area is a major center for white-water rafting. Traditionally the two most popular rafting rivers have been the Río Reventazón and the Río Pacuare, but the former has been dramatically impacted by a series of hydroelectric projects, including a huge 305-megawatt dam currently under construction.
As a result, most organized expeditions from Turrialba now head for the Río Pacuare, which arguably offers the most scenic rafting in Central America. The river plunges down the Caribbean slope through a series of spectacular canyons clothed in virgin rainforest, through runs named for their fury and separated by calm stretches that enable you to stare at near-vertical green walls towering hundreds of meters above.
Lower Pacuare With Class II–IV rapids, this is the more accessible run: 28km through rocky gorges, past an indigenous village and untamed jungle.
Upper Pacuare Classified as Class III–IV, but a few sections can go to Class V, depending on conditions. It’s about a two-hour drive to the put-in, after which you’ll have the prettiest jungle cruise on earth all to yourself.
The Pacuare can be run year-round, though June to October are considered the best months. The highest water is from October to December, when the river runs fast with huge waves. March and April are when the river is at its lowest, although it’s still challenging.
8Getting There & Away
A modern bus terminal is located on the western edge of town off Hwy 10.
San José via Paraíso and Cartago About US$3, two hours to two hours 20 minutes, every 15 to 30 minutes from 4:30am to 9pm.
Siquirres, for transfer to Puerto Limón About US$2.50, two hours, every 30 minutes to two hours from 5:30am to 6:15pm. Schedules vary slightly on weekends.
PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN TURRIALBA
Before 2015, Volcán Turrialba’s last major eruption was in 1866. At the time of research the 3328m volcano was very active, having erupted multiple times in 2017; the park (%8704-2432, 2557-6262; pnvolcanturrialba@gmail.com; h8am-3:30pm) was closed and the capital put on high alert in the same year. Smoke could be seen in the distance, the smell of sulfur in nearby towns was reported in local news and volcanic-ash advisories were issued. The park remained closed at research time and no information about when it may reopen was available. Warning signs forbade visitors from driving further than 8km shy of the summit. The exclusion zone may be larger or smaller during your visit. Check with locals before you attempt to drive on the volcano and note that the best place to see it may be from afar. Views are best in the mornings, before the clouds pass over.
Getting There & Away
The volcano is only about 15km northwest of Turrialba as the crow flies but more than twice that far by car. From the village of Santa Cruz (13km from Turrialba and connected via public bus – check if buses are running before you set out), an 18km road climbs to the top of the volcano.
Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo
Nestled into a patch of stunning hillside forest 19km northeast of Turrialba is the largest and most important archaeological site in the country. Guayabo (%2559-1220; US$5; h8am-3:30pm) is composed of the remains of a pre-Columbian city that was thought to have peaked at some point in AD 800, when it was inhabited by as many as 20,000 people. Today visitors can examine the remains of petroglyphs, residential mounds, a roadway and an impressive aqueduct system – built with rocks that were hauled in from the Río Reventazón along a cobbled 8km road. Amazingly, the cisterns still work, and (theoretically) potable water remains available at the site. In 1973, as the site’s importance became evident, Guayabo was declared a national monument, with further protections established in 1980. The site occupies 232 hectares, most of which remains unexcavated. It’s a small place, so don’t go expecting Mayan pyramids, but it’s a fascinating visit nonetheless.
2Activities
The site currently protects the last remaining pre-montane forest in the province of Cartago, and although mammals are limited to squirrels, armadillos and coatis there are plenty of good birdwatching opportunities here. Particularly noteworthy among the avi-fauna are the oropendolas, which colonize the monument by building sack-like nests in the trees. Other birds include toucans and brown jays – the latter are unique among jays in that they have a small inflatable sac in their chest, which causes the popping sound that is heard at the beginning of their raucous calls.
TTours
Guided tours (in Spanish; from US$20) are available from the monument’s front desk. In high season English-speaking guides may be available.
8Information
Across the road from the ticket office there’s a small information and exhibition center that provides an overview of what the city may have looked like.
8Getting There & Away
Normally by car you would head north out of Turrialba and make a right after the metal bridge, but at research time the bridge up to Guayabo was being reconstructed. The road is well signed from there, and all but the last 3km is paved; a 4WD is recommended, though not required, for the final rough section. If this road is closed there’s another entrance from the north of the site: small roads and dirt tracks wind their way off Rte 230 northwest of Turrialba – this route is possible using a 2WD, but a 4WD is highly recommended.
Buses to the site were suspended during research but would normally leave from Turrialba (about US$1, one hour); check in Turrialba to see if service has resumed. You can also take a taxi from Turrialba (round-trip fares start at US$30, with an hour to explore the park).