Southern Caribbean
The southern coast is the heart and soul of Costa Rica’s Afro-Caribbean community. Jamaican workers arrived in the middle of the 19th century, and stayed to build the railroad and work for the United Fruit corporation. Also in this area, to the interior, are some of the country’s most prominent indigenous groups – cultures that have managed to remain intact despite several centuries’ worth of incursions, first from the Spanish, later from the fruit industry and currently from the globalizing effects of tourism. They principally inhabit the Cocles/Kèköldi, Talamanca Cabécar and Bribrí indigenous territories.
Naturally, this fascinating cultural bubble couldn’t remain isolated forever. Since the 1980s the southern coast has seen the arrival of surfers, backpackers and adventurous families on holiday – many of whom have stayed, adding Italian, German and North American flavors to the cultural stew. For the traveler, it’s a rich and rewarding experience – with lovely beaches to boot.
Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere
One of Costa Rica’s most rugged and rarely visited reserves, 99-sq-km Hitoy-Cerere (
%2206-5516; US$5; 
h8am-4pm) sits at the edge of the Cordillera de Talamanca, characterized by varying altitudes, evergreen forests and rushing rivers. This may be one of the wettest reserves in the park system, inundated with 4000mm to 6000mm of rain annually. Be aware that the river can wash away bridges; check with a guide before you visit.
The reserve is surrounded by some of the country’s most remote indigenous reserves, which you can visit with a local guide. This virgin habitat is also home to jaguars.
Although there’s a ranger station with bathrooms at the reserve entrance, there are no other facilities nearby. A 9km trail leads south to a waterfall, but it’s steep, slippery and poorly maintained. When rivers are high, some crossings may be impassable. Jungle boots are recommended.
2Activities
Local GuideHIKING
(%8412-8355)
Cahuita-based nature guide Richard works with other guides to take adventurous hikers into the Reserva Biologica Hitoy-Cerere; he also leads snorkeling trips, and hikes in Parque Nacional Cahuita.
8Getting There & Away
By car (4WD essential) from Cahuita, the journey will take roughly two hours. Head west on Rte 234 towards Finca Concepción – you’ll drive on a series of dirt roads passing a spectacular banana plantation. Head through Finca Concepción village past the football field, then take a left at the crossroads and continue to the right. The ranger station will be at the end of a challenging dirt road. Leave your name in the visitors book – you’ll likely be the only one there.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
SELVA BANANITO
Selva Bananito Lodge (%2253-8118, 8375-4419; www.selvabananito.com; d all inclusive from US$100, extra person US$10; 
W), at the foot of Cerro Muchito, at the edge of Parque Internacional La Amistad, is a family-run, 1200-hectare farm that has dedicated the last three decades to developing sustainable ecotourism. While there’s no beach access, there’s plenty to keep adventurous travelers occupied: tree climbing, birdwatching, waterfall hiking and horseback riding. Rates include activities, three meals and transportation from San José; minimum three-night stay.
Conscious of their environmental impact, the owners employ solar energy, recycled hardwood and biodegradable products. They are deeply committed to preserving the Limón watershed (which provides Puerto Limón’s drinking water) and have installed camera traps around their property to record the movements of wild cats and other fauna. They aim to become a wildlife corridor that will allow jaguars to move freely between Parque Internacional La Amistad and the Caribbean coast.
For those driving to the lodge, the turnoff is just south of the Río Vizcaya crossing (about 19km south of Limón). The lodge is about 11km inland on a bumpy, often wet dirt road, suitable for 4WD cars only. Detailed directions are posted on the website, and you can call the lodge for further info. All rooms have mosquito nets. The wi-fi can be very unreliable.
Cahuita
POP 8300
Even as tourism has mushroomed on Costa Rica’s southern coast, Cahuita has managed to hold onto its laid-back Caribbean vibe. Dirt roads remain off the main highways, many of the older houses rest on stilts, and chatty neighbors still converse in Mekatelyu.
Cahuita proudly claims the area’s first permanent Afro-Caribbean settler: a turtle fisherman named William Smith, who moved his family to Punta Cahuita in 1828. Now his descendants, along with those of many other West Indian immigrants, run the charming eateries and brightly painted bungalows that hug this idyllic stretch of coast.
Situated on a pleasant point, the town itself has a waterfront but no beach. For that, most folks make the five-minute jaunt up the coast to Playa Negra or southeast into neighboring Parque Nacional Cahuita.
1Sights
oPlaya NegraBEACH
At the northwestern end of Cahuita, Playa Negra is a long, black-sand beach flying the bandera azul ecológica, a flag that indicates that the beach is kept to the highest ecological standard. This is undoubtedly Cahuita’s top spot for swimming and is never crowded. When the swells are big, this place also has a good beach break for beginners.
Playa BlancaBEACH
At the entrance to the national park. A good option for swimming.
Tree of LifeGARDENS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8317-0325, 2755-0014; www.treeoflifecostarica.com; adult/child US$15/7.50; htour 11am Tue-Sun 1 Nov-9 Apr)
This lovingly maintained wildlife center and botanical garden 3km northwest of town on the Playa Negra road rescues and rehabilitates animals while promoting conservation through educational programs. The rotating cast of residents typically includes kinkajous, peccaries, sloths, monkeys and toucans. There’s excellent English-language signage throughout. It’s also possible to volunteer here; see the website for information.
TTours
Snorkeling, horseback riding, national-park hiking, chocolate tours and visits to nearby indigenous territories are standard offerings.
Centro Turístico BrigitteHORSEBACK RIDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0053; www.brigittecahuita.com; Playa Negra)
Behind Reggae Bar in the heart of Playa Negra, this well-signposted backstreet spot does it all, but specializes in horseback tours (hour to full day; US$35 to US$110) and surf lessons (US$35 including board use). Brigitte also rents bicycles (US$8) and offers laundry (US$10 a load) and internet (US$2 per hour) services. Check the website or stop by for full details.
Also offers a couple of basic wood cabinas and two private single rooms, and serves a good brekkie.
Cahuita ToursTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0101, 2755-0000; www.cahuitatours.com; h7.30am-noon & 2-5pm)
One of the most established agencies in town. Offers snorkeling trips (from US$55 per person), horseback riding (US$85) and hiking tours (from US$50).
Snorkeling HouseTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8361-1924; www.snorkelinghouse.com; snorkeling tours adult/child from US$25/15)
Local tour guide and conservationist Fernando Brown launches his excellent snorkeling tours in Cahuita national park from Miss Edith’s, his family’s restaurant. The tour includes a couple of stops where reef sharks, rays and numerous fish are often spotted, and concludes with a fresh fruit snack.
Mister Big J’sTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8887-4695, 2755-0060; horseback riding from US$45; h8am-7:30pm)
Offers horseback riding, hiking, snorkeling and other local tours.
Roberto’s ToursFISHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-1148; aventurasrobertotour@gmail.com; full-day fishing tours from US$210)
Specializes in sportfishing tours and has a restaurant for cooking up your catch.
Willie’s ToursTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-1024, 8917-6982; www.williestourscostarica.com; tours from US$20; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
A full-service tour agency that can also arrange further-flung tours and transport. Options include white-water rafting (US$60), a traditional Bribrí lunch and chocolate-making tour (US$59), a Parque Nacional Cahuita hike (US$20) and snorkeling (US$25).
4Sleeping
There are two general areas to stay in Cahuita: the town center (near the national park) and the quieter north of town along Playa Negra. If you’re journeying between Playa Negra and the center at night, be streetwise; better yet, bike (with lights) or take a taxi, especially if traveling alone.
4In the Center
Cabinas TitoBUNGALOW$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8880-1904, 2755-0286; www.cahuita-cabinas-tito.com; d US$40, tr US$55, q US$60-65, 5-person house with kitchen US$100; 
pW)
Only 200m northwest of Cahuita, yet surrounded by extensive tropical gardens, this quiet oasis offers six brightly painted, clean and simple casitas, plus a family-friendly Caribbean-style house with a kitchen. There’s also a resident sloth named Lola, who’s been living in one of the trees on the property for five years.
Cabinas RiversideCABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8893-2252; d with/without kitchen US$30/25; p)
This tidy budget place just around the corner from Kelly Creek ranger station offers nine simple rooms with mosquito nets and hot showers; five units that are a bit more expensive also come with kitchens. The grassy yard abuts a swampy area perfect for spotting caimans, monkeys and sloths.
Cabinas Smith 1 & 2CABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0157, 2755-0068; s/d/tr with fan US$18/23/30, s/d/tr/q with air-con US$30/35/40/45; p
aW)
These clean rooms spanning two properties between the main drag and the waterfront are run by a friendly older couple with deep local roots. Eight units adjacent to the owners’ home have TV, air-con, wi-fi and fridge; five older fan-cooled units around the corner with an outside bathroom are primarily of interest to the budget minded. All share a guest kitchen.
Cabinas Secret GardenCABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0581; koosiecosta@live.nl; dm/s/d/tr US$12/18/22/30; pW)
This tiny place with a lush garden has five tiled units with fans, mosquito nets, and hot-water showers in cubicle-style bathrooms, plus one five-bed dorm with cold showers. There’s also a nice shared kitchen, and often howler monkeys in the trees nearby.
Spencer Seaside LodgingCABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0027; s US$18-22, d US$32-42; p)
Rooms at this long-standing, locally owned spot are rough around the edges but big – and nothing else at this price level can match the seaside setting within two blocks of the town center with national-park views. Upstairs units have better views as well as a shared terrace strung with hammocks.
oAlby LodgeBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0031; www.albylodge.com; d/tr/q US$60/65/70; pW)
This fine lodge on the edge of the park has spacious landscaped grounds that attract howler monkeys and birds. Four palm-thatched, raised bungalows (two sleeping three people, two sleeping four) are spread out, allowing for plenty of privacy. High ceilings, mosquito nets and driftwood details make for pleasant jungle decor. Rooms also have safes and fans.
A common rancho (thatched gazebo) has excellent communal kitchen facilities and an honesty bar with water, beer and Coke.
Kelly Creek HotelCABINA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0007; www.hotelkellycreek.com; s/d/ste US$50/60/70, extra person US$10; pW)
At this place just outside the national-park entrance, where sloths and caimans hang out, you may be serenaded by the dulcet squawks of the resident parrot. Draw closer and find five graceful wood cabinas, some with new bathrooms, that have high ceilings, cream-colored linens and mosquito nets. Local artwork adorns the reception area, and the restaurant serves continental breakfast (US$6).
Bungalows AchéBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0119; www.bungalowsache.com; bungalows s US$45, d US$50-55, tr US$60, q US$65; pW)
In Nigeria, Aché means ‘Amen,’ and you’ll likely say the same thing when you see these three spotless polished-wood bungalows nestled into a grassy yard bordering the national park. Each octagonal unit comes with its own lockbox, mini fridge, kettle and small private deck with hammock.
Ciudad PerdidaBUNGALOW$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0303; www.ciudadperdidaecolodge.com; incl breakfast d US$95-120, tr US$115-140, q US$190; paW) 
S
In a shady, peaceful spot bordering the national park, but only an eight-minute walk from Cahuita’s town center, this eco-conscious lodge offers cute one- and two-room, candy-colored wood bungalows surrounded by landscaped gardens. All include hammocks, ceiling fans, refrigerators and safe boxes. One house has a Jacuzzi, some have kitchens and all have cable TV.
4Playa Negra
Camping MaríaCAMPGROUND$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0091; campsites per person US$8, incl tent rental US$10; pW)
Well-spaced campsites share a gorgeous section of waterfront near the northern end of Playa Negra, shaded by coconut palms and a variety of fruit trees. Campers have access to rudimentary cooking facilities, bathrooms with cold-water showers, hammocks, a tree swing and a barbecue area. There are power outlets throughout for phone charging. Maria also rents out her own tents.
There’s one private room (US$11), which would be suitable for a group leader.
oPlaya Negra GuesthouseBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0127; www.playanegra.cr; d US$70, q US$84, d with air-con US$94; paW
s)
Owned by a delightful couple, this meticulously maintained place offers four charming rooms in a Caribbean-style plantation house, complemented by three kitchen-equipped storybook cottages. Tropical accents include colorful mosaics in the bathrooms and cozy wicker lounge furniture on the private verandas. A lovely pool, honor bar and barbecue area are tucked into the well-manicured garden dotted with fan palms.
Every unit has thoughtful and homey touches, including mini fridge and coffee maker, and staff members go out of their way to help guests explore the area. A winner all around.
Casa MarcellinoCABINA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8351-1198, 2755-0390; www.casamarcellino.com; d US$85-110, q US$105-130; W)
In a peaceful garden setting, just inland down a side road between Cahuita and Playa Negra, you’ll find this charming cluster of spotless wood cabins with fully equipped kitchens. More expensive units have large bathtubs, plus spacious porches with hammocks and retractable awnings. Monthly and weekly rates are available.
El Encanto B&BB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0113; www.elencantocahuita.com; incl breakfast s/d/tr/studio/ste US$85/95/115/115/210; pWs)
This pleasant B&B, only about 200m northwest of downtown Cahuita, is set in landscaped grounds dotted with easy chairs and hammocks. Demure bungalows have high ceilings, tile floors and firm beds draped in colorful textiles. The studio and upstairs apartment both have fully equipped kitchens, and the on-site spa and Jacuzzi are super tranquilo.
Cabinas IguanaCABINA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0005; http://cabinas-iguana.com; d/tr/q US$65/80/95, 5/6 people US$110/120, d with shared bathroom US$25; pWs)
Set back from the beach on the road marked by the Reggae Bar, this family-run spot features rather worn but nicely shaded simple wood cabins with kitchens. Cabins are of various sizes and are nestled into forested grounds with abundant wildlife. The pool’s a pretty place to spot nature.
La Piscina NaturalCABINA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0146; www.piscina-natural.com; d/tr US$50/65; pWs)
Run by Cahuita native Walter and expatriate former schoolteacher Patty, this chilled-out gem of a spot near Playa Negra’s northern end is a self-proclaimed ‘Caribbean Paradise.’ The small rooms share access to a huge kitchen and open-air lounge, but the lush grounds, the hammocks next to the gorgeous waterfront and the rock-fringed natural ocean-water pool really make this place special.
Hotel La DiosaBUNGALOW$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0055; www.hotelladiosa.net; incl breakfast s US$70, d US$85-115, tr US$105-130; paWs)
This relaxing spot on Playa Negra offers six well-constructed bungalows, some of which have Jacuzzi tubs, air-conditioning and oceanfront terraces. The grounds include a tranquil pool, a palapa-topped restaurant and a meandering walkway to the beach. This is the spot for some serious R&R.
Kenaki LodgeBUNGALOW$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0485; www.kenakilodge.com; d incl breakfast US$90-200; pW)
Opposite Playa Grande, this appealing place is the creation of expatriate Isabelle and Costa Rican tae kwon do master Roberto. Bright, high-ceilinged rooms and elegant bungalows with satellite TV and modern kitchen fixtures surround a spacious landscaped yard and a wooden breakfast deck. Yoga and tae kwon do sessions are available in the open-air dojo.
An extra bed in a room or bungalow is US$20, while an extra person for breakfast is US$10 (children aged six to 11 pay half price for both). The lodge has two bicycles, which can be rented for US$10 per day.
Coral Hill BungalowsBUNGALOW$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0479, 8861-0063; www.coralhillbungalows.com; d incl breakfast US$130; W)
Popular with honeymooners, these three immaculate private bungalows in a wildlife-friendly garden setting feature tropical decor: polished-wood floors, bamboo beds, mosquito nets, hand-painted ceramic sinks, African tribal art, and porches with hammocks and leather rocking chairs. Luxuries include rain showers, full breakfasts served by the gracious hosts, and fresh flowers. Follow signs from Reggae Bar.
Hotel Suizo Loco LodgeBUNGALOW$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0349; www.suizolocolodge.com; incl breakfast s/d/tr US$85/115/165, ste d/tr US$140/203; pWs)
Eleven immaculate whitewashed bungalows have king-size beds and folk-art decor at this serene family-friendly lodge (cribs available). All units have safes, mini fridges, solar-heated showers and small private terraces. The perfectly landscaped grounds contain an impressive mosaic-tile pool with a swim-up bar. Plus, there’s a tropical/European restaurant. It’s around 2km northwest of Cahuita’s main center.
Goddess Garden Eco ResortLODGE$$$
(%2755-0070, in USA & Canada 800-854-7761; www.thegoddessgarden.com; d 5-night packages incl 3 meals daily US$720; pWs)
Surrounded by old-growth jungle (including an awe-inspiring ‘Goddess Tree’), this place at the end of the Playa Negra road is geared toward larger groups and yoga enthusiasts, but independent travelers looking for a peaceful, meditative five- to seven-day immersion experience are also welcome. Rates include four free yoga classes, a one-hour massage and a hike in Cahuita National Park.
5Eating
The town offers some of the best Caribbean fare around, along with some surprisingly delicious Italian and French cuisine. There are good options near Playa Negra, too.
CocoricóITALIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0409; mains US$7-13; h5-10pm Wed-Mon, may be closed low season; W)
The menu at this casual spot, decorated with classic movie posters, revolves around pizza, pasta and other Italian-themed mains, but it’s better known for its regular film screenings and drink deals. Catch a free movie every night.
Café CahuitaCAFE, CREPERIE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0323; crepes US$2.50-5.50; h7am-6pm Wed-Mon)
This friendly main-street spot whips up sweet crepes filled with fresh fruit, chocolate or jam, plus savory varieties like ham and cheese, spinach or gluten free (prepared with plantain flour). It also serves hot and iced coffees and croissants.
Soda KaweCOSTA RICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0233; casados US$7; h5:30am-7pm)
This humble spot on Cahuita’s main street (a few hundred yards from the Kelly Creek park entrance) serves delicious, reasonably priced casados cooked over a wood fire, plus hearty breakfasts. It serves ceviche, fried rice dishes and fresh fruit juices, too.
Reggae BarCARIBBEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; mains US$5.50-12.50; hnoon-10pm; W)
Exuding a friendly, laid-back vibe, this soda serves sandwiches and pastas on a wooden deck hung with green, red and yellow lampshades in the heart of Playa Negra. Reggae music and waves crashing on the beach across the street enhance the chilled-out atmosphere.
oPalenque Luisa Casa de CarnesSTEAK$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %7039-9689; mains US$6-16; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat; 
v)
In the corner veranda of an old house, this cozy, candle-lit spot specializes in delicious red-wine-covered filet mignon, tenderloin and T-bone steaks. You’ll also find plenty of other savory treats, including chicken in jalapeño or coconut sauce, pork chops, grilled seafood and ceviche. Plus there’s a veggie section on the menu – with casados, pastas, and vegetables in coconut sauce.
oRestaurant Italiano CahuITAPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0179; pizzas US$11-20; h4-9.30pm Fri-Wed; W)
This excellent, unpretentious pizzeria is the real deal. Grab a seat at the aluminum tables on the cement back patio and enjoy a surf and insect serenade while you wait for your thin-crusted beauty to emerge from the wood-fired oven. Handmade pastas, grilled meats and gluten-free options are also available.
Chao’s ParadiseCARIBBEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %6098-4864; seafood mains US$9-15; hnoon-10pm; W)
Follow the wafting smell of garlic and simmering sauces to this highly recommended Playa Negra open-air restaurant-bar, where chef Norman has been serving up fresh catches cooked in spicy ‘Chao’ sauce for more than 20 years. Other dishes include shrimp and octopus in Caribbean sauce, and beef in red-wine sauce. Also has a pool table.
Baraka BistroFRENCH, ITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0145; www.facebook.com/barakkabistrocahuita; mains US$7-15; h11am-9:30pm Tue-Sun)
This new cafe-bistro has hardwood floors, sleek white walls, a parasol-shaded outdoor area and blackboards displaying the specials. Here you can enjoy some of the best French and Italian fare in town: the Florentina crepe is stuffed with spinach, cream, chicken and cheese and has an egg cooked into its center, while the filet mignon comes with shrimp and exotic sauce.
The baked fish of the day and the croque monsieur with béchamel sauce, ham and Emmental cheese are also winners. Finish up with the homemade tiramisu.
Restaurant La Fé BumbataSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8323-3497; dishes US$6-14; h7:30am-11pm)
Chef and owner Walter, a Cahuita native, serves up tall tales and tasty meals – from pancakes to sandwiches to whole snapper – at this reasonably priced spot. There’s a laundry list of Tico and Caribbean items, but the main draw is anything doused in the restaurant’s spicy-delicious coconut sauce.
Miss Edith’sCARIBBEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0248; mains US$6-16; h7am-10pm; v)
This long-standing restaurant serves a slew of Caribbean specialties and a number of vegetarian options, such as coconut-milk-and-ginger curry. The service may be laid-back, and some dishes aren’t spectacular, but the spicy jerk chicken and potatoes stewed in garlic are worth the wait. The fresh passion-fruit, lemon-ginger-mint and pineapple juices are good, too.
Sobre Las OlasSEAFOOD$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2755-0109; pastas US$15-18, mains US$15-30; hnoon-10pm Wed-Mon; v)
Garlic shrimp, seafood pasta and grilled fish of the day come accompanied by crashing waves and sparkling-blue Caribbean vistas at this sweet spot. Cahuita’s top option for romantic waterfront dining, it’s only a 400m walk northwest of Cahuita, on the road to Playa Negra.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Coco’s BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/cocosbar.cahuita; hnoon-late)
Low-key Cahuita is home to one insanely loud drinking hole. At the main intersection, you can’t miss it: painted Rasta red, gold and green and cranking the reggaetón up to 11. On some nights (usually on weekends) there’s also live music.
SplashBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8412-1872; h10am-8pm)
This day-drinking spot has an outdoor bar with its own swimming pool and often hosts roots and reggae nights, private parties and other special events. The two-for-one happy hour (3pm to 8pm) includes margaritas and Cuba libres. At the time of research the owner was planning to open a pizzeria in the bar.
8Information
The town’s helpful website, www.cahuita.cr, has lodging and restaurant information, including pictures of many of the town’s facilities and attractions. Most cafes, bars and restaurants have wi-fi.
Banco de Costa Rica (h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) At the bus terminal; has an ATM.
8Getting There & Around
The best way to get around Cahuita – especially if you’re staying in Playa Negra – is by bicycle. Several places rent bikes, including Mister Big J’s in Cahuita and Centro Turístico Brigitte in Playa Negra. Most places charge between US$7 and US$10 per day.
BUS
Autotransportes Mepe buses arrive and depart at the bus terminal 200m southwest of Parque Central.
BUSES FROM CAHUITA
| Destination | Cost (US$) | Duration | Frequency (daily) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Manzanillo | 2.40 | 1hr | 6am, 9:30am, 11:30am, 1:45pm, 4pm, 6:15pm |
| Puerto Limón | 2.40 | 1½hr | hourly 6:30am-8:30pm |
| Puerto Viejo de Talamanca | 1.50 | ½hr | half-hourly 6am-8:30pm |
| San José | 9 | 4hr (change in Puerto Limón) | every 1-2hr 6am-4pm |
| Sixaola | 4 | 2hr | hourly 6:30am-8:30pm |
Parque Nacional Cahuita
This small but beautiful park (%2755-0302, 2755-0461; US$5; hKelly Creek entrance 6am-5pm, Puerto Vargas entrance 8am-4pm) – just 10 sq km – is one of the more frequently visited national parks in Costa Rica. The reasons are simple: it’s bursting with wildlife and easily walkable from the nearby town of Cahuita, which provides attractive accommodation. It also has the unusual combination of white-sand beach, coral reef and coastal rainforest, so you can spot an abundance of exotic species on land and underwater all in one day.
2Activities
Guided Nature WalksHIKING
(%8412-8355; ludrickenrriquemcloud@hotmail.com)
Friendly local guide Ludrick McLoud offers fascinating nature walks through Cahuita National Park and snorkeling trips off the coast. He can also arrange guides to Gandoca-Manzanillo wildlife refuge and Hitoy-Cerere biological reserve.
Asociación WidecastVOLUNTEERING
(%in San José 2236-0947; www.latinamericanseaturtles.com)
This grassroots NGO offers volunteer opportunities on turtle-protection projects. Participants can assist in patrols, hatchery maintenance, and research and beach clean-up efforts. Rates (US$40 per day) include training, accommodations, all equipment and three meals per day. Boat transfers are not included.
Hiking
An easily navigable 8km coastal trail leads through the jungle from Kelly Creek to Puerto Vargas. At times the trail follows the beach; at other times hikers are 100m or so away from the sand. At the end of the first beach, Playa Blanca, hikers must ford the dark Río Perezoso (Sloth River), which bisects Punta Cahuita. Inquire about conditions before you set out: this river is generally easy enough to wade across, but during periods of heavy rain it can become impassable since it serves as the discharge for the swamp that covers the point.
The trail continues around Punta Cahuita to the long stretch of Playa Vargas. It ends at the southern tip of the reef, where it meets up with a road leading to the Puerto Vargas ranger station. Once you reach the ranger station, it’s another 1.5km along a gravel road to the park entrance. From here you can hike the 3.5km back to Cahuita along the coastal highway or catch a ride going in either direction. Buses will stop if you flag them down. They pass around every 30 minutes in each direction; fares are about US$1 – bring change in local currency.
Swimming
Almost immediately upon entering the park, you’ll see the beautiful 2km-long Playa Blanca stretching along a gently curving bay to the east. The first 500m of beach may be unsafe for swimming, but beyond that the waves are usually gentle (look for green flags marking safe swimming spots). The rocky Punta Cahuita headland separates this beach from the next one, Playa Vargas. It is unwise to leave clothing or other belongings unattended when you swim.
Snorkeling
Parque Nacional Cahuita contains one of the last living coral reefs in Costa Rica. While the reef represents some of the area’s best snorkeling, it has suffered damage over the years from earthquakes and tourism-related activities. In an attempt to protect the reef from further damage, snorkeling is only permitted with a licensed guide. The going rate to accompany one person is about US$25 to US$30.
You’ll find that conditions vary greatly, depending on the weather and other factors. In general, the drier months in the highlands (February to April) are best for snorkeling on the coast, as less runoff results in less silt in the sea. Conditions are often cloudy at other times.
5Eating
Right next door to the park, Cahuita offers a wide selection of good Caribbean, Italian and seafood restaurants. If you can’t wait, there’s a mediocre eatery named Boca Chica (%2755-0415; meals US$10-14; h11am-5pm, often closed low season) near the Puerto Vargas ranger station at the park’s southern entrance.
8Information
Kelly Creek Ranger Station (%2755-0461; admission by donation; h6am-5pm) Restrooms are available at the park’s northern entrance.
Puerto Vargas Ranger Station (%2755-0302; US$5; h8am-4pm) At the park’s southern entrance.
8Getting There & Away
It’s possible to flag down a local bus traveling on the main road from either end of the park. Buses pass roughly every 30 minutes and will drop you 3.5km away at the other end of the park; fares are about US$1.
Buses to San José (about US$9, four hours, every two hours 6am to 4pm) and Puerto Limón (about US$2.40, 1½ hours, hourly 6:30am to 8:30pm) leave from Cahuita’s main bus station.
PARQUE NACIONAL CAHUITA’S FLORA & FAUNA
Declared a national park in 1978, Cahuita is meteorologically typical of the entire coast (that is to say: very humid), which results in dense tropical foliage, as well as coconut palms and sea grapes. The area includes swampy Punta Cahuita, which juts into the sea between two stretches of sandy beach. Often flooded, the point is covered with cativo and mango trees and is a popular hangout for birds such as the green ibis, the yellow-crowned night heron, the boat-billed heron and the rare green-and-rufous kingfisher.
Red land and fiddler crabs live along the beaches, attracting mammals such as crab-eating raccoons and white-nosed pizotes (coatis). White-faced capuchins, southern opossums and three-toed sloths also live in these parts. The mammal you are most likely to see (and hear) is the mantled howler monkey, which makes its bellowing presence known. The coral reef represents another rich ecosystem, abounding with sea life.
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
This burgeoning party town is no longer a destination for intrepid surfers only; it’s bustling with tourist activity. Street vendors tout Rasta trinkets and Bob Marley T-shirts, stylish eateries serve global fusion, and intentionally rustic bamboo bars pump dancehall and reggaetón. It can get downright hedonistic, attracting revelers wanting to marinate in ganja and guaro (a local firewater made from sugarcane).
Despite that reputation, Puerto Viejo manages to hold onto an easy charm. Stray a couple of blocks off the main commercial strip and you might find yourself on a sleepy dirt road, savoring a spicy Caribbean stew in the company of local families. Nearby you’ll find rainforest fruit and cacao farms set to a soundtrack of cackling birds and croaking frogs, and wide-open beaches where the daily itinerary revolves around surfing and snoozing. If you’re looking to chill a little, party a little and eat a little, you’ve come to the right place.
1Sights
Aiko-logiWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%2750-2084, 8997-6869; www.aiko-logi-tours.com; day tours incl transport & lunch US$60, overnight stays per person incl meals US$120; p) S
Nestled into the Cordillera de Talamanca, 15km outside Puerto Viejo, this private 135-hectare reserve is centered on a former finca (farm), on land fringed with dense primary rainforest. It’s ideal for birdwatching, hiking and splashing around in swimming holes. Day tours from Puerto Viejo (or Cahuita) can be arranged, as can overnight tent-platform stays and yoga classes. Reserve.
Finca La IslaGARDENS
(%2750-0046, 8886-8530; self-guided/guided tours US$6/12; h10am-4pm Fri-Mon; p) S
West of town, this farm and botanical garden has long produced organic pepper and cacao, along with more than 150 tropical fruits and ornamental plants. Birds and wildlife, including sloths, poison-dart frogs and toucans, abound. Informative guided tours (minimum three people) include admission, fruit tasting and a glass of fresh juice; alternatively, buy a booklet (US$1) and take a self-guided tour. The farm also makes its own chocolate.
2Activities
Exploradores Outdoors is an excellent source of general information on local activities.
Exploradores OutdoorsRAFTING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2222-6262; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com; 1-day rafting trips incl lunch & transportation from US$99)
This outfit offers one- and two-day trips on the Ríos Pacuare and Reventazón. Staff can pick you up and drop you off in Cahuita, Puerto Viejo, San José or Arenal, and you’re free to mix and match your pick-up and drop-off points. It has an office in the center of Puerto Viejo.
Surfing
Find one of the country’s most infamous waves at Salsa Brava – a shallow reef break that’s most definitely for experts only. It’s a tricky but thrilling ride over sharp coral. Salsa Brava offers both rights and lefts, although the right is usually faster. Conditions are best with a southeasterly swell.
For a softer landing, try the beach break at Playa Cocles, about 2km east of town, where the waves are consistent, white water is abundant for beginners, and the wipeouts are more forgiving. Conditions are usually best early in the day, before the wind picks up. Meanwhile, Punta Uva has a fun, semi-fickle right-hand point for intermediates, and you can’t beat the setting.
Waves in the area generally peak from December to February, but you might get lucky during the surfing mini-season between June and July. From late March to May, and in September and October, the sea is at its calmest. Several surf schools around town charge US$40 to US$50 for two-hour lessons. Locals on Playa Cocles rent boards from about US$20 per day.
One Love Surf SchoolSURFING
(%8719-4654; https://onelovecostarica.wordpress.com/about; 2hr surf lessons US$50, 1hr reiki US$50)
Julie Hickey and her surfing sons, Cedric and Solomon, specialize in beginners’ surf lessons, reiki and Thai massage. She also offers massage and reiki courses from US$300.
Caribbean Surf SchoolSURFING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8357-7703; 2hr lesson US$50)
Lessons by super-smiley surf instructor Hershel Lewis are widely considered the best in town. Recently he started teaching paddle boarding.
Hiking
There are superb coastal hiking opportunities within easy reach. Parque Nacional Cahuita is 17km north of Puerto Viejo, and Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo is 13km south.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
SALSA BRAVA
One of the best breaks in Costa Rica, Salsa Brava is named for the heaping helping of ‘spicy sauce’ it serves up on the sharp, shallow reef, continually collecting its debt of fun in broken skin, boards and bones. The wave makes its regular, dramatic appearance when the swells pull in from the east, pushing a wall of water against the reef and in the process generating a thick and powerful curl. There’s no gradual build-up here: the water is transformed from swell to wave in a matter of seconds. Ride it out and you’re golden. Wipe out and you may rocket into the reef. Some mordant locals have dubbed it ‘the cheese grater.’
Interestingly, this storied wave helped turn Puerto Viejo into a destination. More than 30 years ago the town was barely accessible. But bumpy bus rides and rickety canoes didn’t dissuade dogged surfers from making the week-long trip from San José. They camped on the beach and shacked up with locals, carbo-loading at cheap sodas. Other intrepid explorers – biologists, Peace Corps volunteers, disaffected US veterans looking to escape the fallout of the Vietnam War – also materialized during this time, helping spread the word about the area’s luminous sunsets, lush rainforests and monster waves. Today Puerto Viejo has a fine paved road, global eateries and wi-fi. Salsa Brava’s ferocity, however, remains unchanged.
CCourses
Spanish School Pura VidaLANGUAGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0029; www.spanishschool-puravida.com; 1/2/3/4 weeks Spanish lessons US$200/380/555/720)
Located at the Hotel Pura Vida, this school offers everything from private hourly tutoring (US$15) to intensive five-hours-a-day, multiweek courses.
TTours
Tour operators generally require a minimum of two people on any excursion. Rates may be discounted for larger groups. Gecko Trail Costa Rica can help you to book.
Gecko Trail Costa RicaTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2756-8159, in USA & Canada 415-230-0298; www.geckotrail.com; htours from US$50)
This full-service agency arranges local tours as well as transportation, accommodation and excursions throughout Costa Rica, including horseback riding, hikes, rafting, hot-spring visits and spa days. It has an administrative office in Puerto Viejo (inside the Pleasure Ride building), but bookings are made by phone and online.
TerraventurasTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0750; www.terraventuras.com; h7am-7pm)
Offers overnight stays in Tortuguero (US$99), a cultural tour to an indigenous reserve (US$80) and a Caribbean cooking class (US$50), along with the usual local tours. It also has its very own 23-platform, 2.1km-long canopy tour (US$58), complete with Tarzan swing.
Caribe ShuttleTOURS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0626; www.caribeshuttle.com/puerto-viejo-tours; tours from US$45)
This company offers a wide variety of tours in the Puerto Viejo area, and excursions to Bocas del Toro (Panama) and Tortuguero. It also provides transport to San José, northwestern Costa Rica and San Juan del Sur (Nicaragua).
4Sleeping
Puerto Viejo has a little bit of everything. Many budget spots have private hot-water bathrooms and internet access. Rates are generally discounted slightly if you pay cash.
Kaya’s PlaceGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0690; www.kayasplace.com; d from US$25, with air-con from US$40, r without bathroom from US$20; paW)
Across from the beach at Puerto Viejo’s western edge, this funky guesthouse has colorful basic rooms, ranging from dim units with shared cool-water showers to more spacious garden rooms with air-con and hot-water bathrooms. The property also includes a bungalow, a private cabin and three apartments (inquire for prices). A 2nd-floor deck is filled with hammocks with ocean views.
The bar and restaurant serves breakfast (from US$5), plus casados, homemade pizzas and excellent craft beer. You can book a brewery tour (US$20) and other activities at reception. There’s also a free pool table.
Cabinas TropicalCABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-2064; www.cabinastropical.com; s/d/tr US$40/45/55; p
naW)
Ten spacious rooms – decorated with varnished wood and shiny tiles – surround a primly landscaped garden at the eastern end of town. The comfortable quarters are just part of the appeal: biologist owner Rolf Blancke leads excellent hikes, birdwatching excursions and tours. Call to check rates; prices vary.
La Ruka HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0617; http://larukahostel.com; dm US$12, r with/without bathroom US$46/36; pW)
If the sign ‘welcome all sexes, races, colors, religions, languages, shapes and sizes’ doesn’t lure you in, the friendly greeting from owners Dannie and Dave will. East of town, this hostel has common areas, a shared kitchen, dorms and a couple of private rooms with shared bathroom upstairs, plus a barbecue area, book exchange, and surfboard and snorkel rental.
Hotel Puerto ViejoCABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0620; www.hotelpuertoviejocostarica.com; d US$40, r per person without bathroom US$16; p
iW)
This crash pad launched by surfer Kurt Van Dyke has been around for 30 years, and consists of a warren of wooden rooms in the middle of town. Units are basic but clean and come equipped with strong fans. There’s a huge shared kitchen and bar with a mellow vibe, where the talk is often all about waves.
Hotel Pura VidaHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0002; www.hotel-puravida.com; s/d/tr US$40/45/60, without bathroom US$30/35/45; pW)
This inn opposite the soccer field doubles as a Spanish school and offers midrange amenities. Breezy, immaculate rooms feature polished wood, bright linens and ceramic-tile floors; many have charming views of the surrounding village. Showers are heated with solar power, and there’s a lounge with easy chairs and hammocks. Breakfast (US$7), snacks and chilled beer are available.
Jacaranda Hotel & Jungle GardenCABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0069; www.cabinasjacaranda.net; s/d/tr from US$35/45/60, air-con extra US$15; paW)
In a blooming garden intersected by walkways, this place near the soccer field has 12 simple wood cabinas (sleeping one to four people) with spotless ceramic-tile floors and murals of flowers. There’s a small shared kitchen and patio, and yoga classes (US$10) are available. The spa offers massage and bodywork (hotel guests get 15% off treatments).
Lionfish HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-2143; www.facebook.com/thelionfishhostel; dm US$10, r US$25; pW)
Right off the main street in the center of the action, this hostel is tops for party people. It was started by local surfers and appeals to like-minded adventurers. The dorms are basic and can be stuffy. Facilities include shared kitchen, fans, lockers and hot water. A fried-chicken joint on the first level keeps patrons well fed.
Hostel PagalúHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-1930; www.pagalu.com; d US$38, dm/d without bathroom US$15/34; pW)
A contemporary hostel with clean, airy doubles and dorms, the latter with lockers and bunk-side reading lamps. There’s also a shared, open-air kitchen and a quiet lounge with tables and hammocks, plus a supply of coffee, tea, and spring water for refilling your bottle.
Rocking J’sHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0657; www.rockingjs.com; camping per person US$12, hammocks US$10, dm/d/tr/ste US$15/33/50/70, dm with air-con US$14; paW)
Puerto Viejo’s biggest party hostel and ‘hammock hotel’ has a DJ almost every night in high season. The accommodation is basic: tight rows of tents and hammocks, snug dorms and private doubles share rickety showers in an environment brightened by an explosion of psychedelic mosaics. There are fans in rooms and an on-site restaurant and bar.
Free pickup is available from the bus station if booked ahead. Surfboards, snorkels and bikes are available for rent (US$6), and free yoga lessons take place every morning at 8am.
Cabinas GuaranáCABINA$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0244; www.hotelguarana.com; s/d/tr/q US$36/45/57/62; piW)
Right in town, amid a flourishing tropical garden, brightly painted concrete cabinas are decorated with vibrant walls, wooden furniture and colorful folk tapestries. Each one has a small private terrace with hammock. There are mosaics throughout the property, plus a spacious shared kitchen.
Casa VerdeCABINA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0015; www.cabinascasaverde.com; d US$59-85, extra person US$20, air-con extra US$10; paWs)
Under new ownership, this 17-room wonder has been refurbished and now features tiled walkways winding through gardens hosting tidy accommodation, each with high ceilings, stained-wood furniture, folk-art touches and private terraces with hammocks. The pool is straight out of Fantasy Island. A family of sloths lives in the grounds, as do exotic frogs and other species. Credit cards accepted.
Escape CaribeñoBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0103; www.escapecaribeno.com; s/d/tr garden view US$70/75/85, ocean view US$90/95/105; paiW)
Charming owners keep these bungalows spotless. Some bungalows sit on the beach side, others in the garden across the road, 500m east of town toward Playa Cocles. More expensive units are in lovely Caribbean-style structures with stained-glass shower stalls; all units have stocked mini fridges, cable TV, fans and hammocks. Breakfast (continental US$5, American US$10) also available.
Coco Loco LodgeBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0281; www.cocolocolodge.com; d US$69-87, with air-con US$92-112; piW)
You’ll find various options at this quiet hotel. The most charming are the palm-thatched bungalows, featuring shining wooden floors, mini fridges, and coffee makers. All have private terraces with hammocks, offering views of the expansive garden. One large accommodation in the main house is equipped with a kitchen and ideal for a family. Credit cards accepted.
Bungalows CalalúBUNGALOW$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0042; www.bungalowscalalu.com; d/tr US$55/65, d/tr/q with kitchen & air-con US$70/90/100; paWs)
A lovely tropical-garden setting, a swimming pool and convenient parking are among the appealing features at this cluster of six bungalows within easy walking distance of town. Cheaper fan-cooled units have private front porches where you can listen to the chorus of chirping birds every morning. Larger family-friendly units come with air-con and kitchen.
Blue Conga HotelB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0681; www.hotelblueconga.com; r US$70-125; pWs)
This backstreet B&B 1km east of town has simple rooms in a two-story, tropical-style building. Best value are the airy upstairs units, with high ceilings, clerestory windows, canopy beds with mosquito nets, handcrafted lamps, private terraces, coffee makers and refrigerators. Rooms downstairs are less inspiring. Breakfast is served on a lovely open-air garden deck, beside the pool.
Banana AzulLODGE$$$
(%2750-2035; www.bananaazul.com; incl breakfast cabinas from US$89, r & ste US$109-222; pWs)
Removed from town, this romantic hotel sits astride a blissfully tranquil black-sand beach. Jungle-chic decor (white linens, mosquito nets, bromeliads in the showers) is complemented by fine ocean vistas from upstairs terraces. Of the 22 rooms, the best is the corner Howler Suite, with multidirectional views. There’s also a restaurant-bar, and bike and boogie-board rentals. No children under 16.
Cashew Hill Jungle CottagesBUNGALOW$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0256, 2750-0001; www.cashewhilllodge.co.cr; cottages US$90-130, dogs extra US$10; pWs
#)
On a lush hillside five minutes above town are seven bright, colorful and comfortable cottages sleeping up to six, with full kitchens, loft-style areas and charming rustic touches. All have private decks or patios, with comfy chairs and hammocks. The two-bedroom Playa Negra cabin has exquisite ocean views. A yoga platform hosts classes and there’s a laundry service (US$8).
5Eating
With the most diverse restaurant scene on the Caribbean coast, Puerto Viejo has the cure for casado overkill. You’ll find everything from sushi to homemade pizza.
You’ll find groceries at the local Old Harbour Supermarket (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-1908; h6:30am-10pm) or incongruous chain-store Mega-Super (%2750-0187; h8am-9pm). Don’t miss the Saturday organic market, where vendors and growers sell snacks typical of the region.
oCafé RicoCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0510; caferico.puertoviejo@yahoo.com; breakfast US$3-8, lunch from US$6; h7am-12:45pm Sat-Wed; W)
Home to some of Puerto Viejo’s best house-roasted coffee, and natural smoothies such as probiotic ginger ale, this cozy garden cafe serves breakfast (yogurt and strawberries, omelets) and early lunch (the Hawaiian pineapple sandwich with ham and cheese is tasty). A plethora of other services include wi-fi, a large book exchange, laundry, plus snorkel and bike rentals.
oBread & ChocolateBREAKFAST$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0723; www.facebook.com/bandcpuertoviejo; cakes US$3.50-4, meals US$6-9; h6:30am-6:30pm Wed-Sat, to 2:30pm Sun; v)
Ever had a completely homemade PB&J (with bread, peanut butter and jelly all made from scratch)? That and more can be yours at this dream of a cafe, serving sandwiches, soups and salads, and of course the treat that gives it its name: chocolate, served as truffles, bars, cakes, tarts and covered nuts, and in cookies (gluten free available).
Coffees are served in individual French presses; mochas come deconstructed so you have the pleasure of mixing your own homemade chocolate, steamed milk and coffee; and everything else – from the gazpacho to the granola to the biscuits – is lovingly and skillfully made in-house.
Soda RiquisimoCARIBBEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0367; US$4.50-9; h7am-10pm; W)
Typical Caribbean dishes, like jerk chicken served with salad, beans, rice and plantain, are done well at this simple soda off the main strip. Reggae plays in the background and the atmosphere is friendly enough, but in this touristy town you can’t beat these prices. At weekends the place is packed. It also serves toast, omelets and fruit for breakfast.
Como en mi Casa Art CaféCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %6069-6337; www.comoenmicasacostarica.wordpress.com; mains US$3.50-6; h8am-4pm Wed-Mon, kitchen to 2:30pm; v)
Owned by a friendly bohemian expat couple, this charming vegetarian cafe champions the ‘slow food’ movement and makes everything from scratch, from the jams and the hot sauces to the gluten-free pancakes. Popular items include raw cakes, homemade lentil-bean burgers, and gluten-free avocado wraps, smoothies and chocolate brownies. The walls are covered in local art.
Soda ShekináCARIBBEAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0549; mains US$6-10; hbreakfast 7:30-11:30am, lunch & dinner 11:30am-9pm Thu-Sun)
Delicious pancake and fruit breakfasts and Caribbean home cooking can be found at this backstreet eatery with wooden slab tables on an open-air terrace. Lunch and dinner mains are served with coconut rice and beans, salad and caramelized fried bananas. It’s just northwest of the soccer field.
De GustibusBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2756-8397; www.facebook.com/degustibusbakery; baked goods from US$1; h6.45am-6pm)
This bakery on Puerto Viejo’s main drag draws a devoted following with its fabulous focaccia, along with slices of pizza, apple strudels, profiteroles and all sorts of other sweet and savory goodies. Eat in or grab a snack for the beach.
Sel & SucreFRENCH$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0636; meals US$4-10; hnoon-9:30pm Tue-Sun; v)
Dark coffee and fresh-fruit smoothies offer a nice complement to the menu of crepes, both savory and sweet. These delights are all prepared by the one and only chef Sebastien Flageul, who also owns the hostel next door. Service can be slow, but it’s worth the wait.
Dee-LiteICE CREAM$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8419-2023; gelati from US$3, menu items US$1-7; h10am-10pm; Wv
c)
Directly across from the bus stop, this authentic gelateria has up to 80 flavors on rotatation, including non-dairy and vegan options. It’s the perfect place to cool off after a long, hot bus ride. It also serves crepes, banana splits, pancakes, paninis, pastries, and hot and cold drinks.
Pan PayBAKERY$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0081; dishes US$3-6; h7am-4pm)
This popular corner spot on the beachside road in town is excellent for strong coffee, freshly baked goods and hearty wedges of fluffy Spanish omelet served with crisp tomato bread. There are sandwiches and other light meals, but it’s the flaky chocolate croissants that’ll make you want to jump out of bed in the morning.
oMopriSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2756-8411; mains US$9-20; hnoon-10pm; c)
You’d never know it from Mopri’s dingy facade and cheap plastic tables, but this place serves some of the best seafood in Puerto Viejo. Choose your star ingredient – whole snapper, calamari, lobster or prawns. Then choose your sauce – Caribbean, Mopri’s garlic butter, curry, jalapeño or a lip-smacking salsa. Last, pile on the sides – rice, fried potatoes, plantains, salad, veggies or beans.
It also has a kids’ menu and pasta dishes for non-fish eaters, plus wine, beer, juice and coffee to wash it all down.
Stashu’s con FusionFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0530; mains US$10-14; h5-10pm Thu-Tue; v)
Stroll 250m out of town toward Playa Cocles to this romantic low-lit patio cafe serving creative cuisine that combines elements of Caribbean, Indian, Mexican and Thai cooking. Macadamia- and coconut-encrusted tilapia and tandoori chicken are just a couple of standouts. Excellent vegetarian and vegan items. Owner-chef Stash Golas is an artist in the kitchen and out.
Miss Lidia’s PlaceCARIBBEAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0598; dishes US$7-20; h1-9pm Tue-Sat, 11:30am-8pm Sun)
A long-standing favorite for classic Caribbean flavors, Miss Lidia’s has been around for years, pleasing the palates and satisfying the stomachs of locals and tourists alike. Fruit-and-veggie lovers will appreciate the ice-cold batidos (fresh-fruit drinks) and the delicious assortment of broccoli, green beans, cauliflower, corn-on-the-cob, carrots and mushrooms accompanying most dishes (red snapper, shrimp, chicken etc).
Chile RojoASIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8396-3247; US$7-13; hnoon-11pm; Wv)
Craving sushi? Head to this open-air Asian joint on Puerto Viejo’s main street overlooking the beach and boats. Bonus raw-fish varieties include soy-infused, Hawaiian-style tuna poke, and ceviche. Meanwhile, cooked dishes include Thai curries, whole red snapper and yellowfin tuna. Vegetarians can tuck into Middle Eastern delights like tabouleh, fattoush salad and falafel burgers.
At the time of research, deals included two-for-one happy-hour cocktails between 6pm and 10pm.
Bikini Restaurant & BarFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-3061; mojitos US$3.50, mains US$5.50-14; h5.30-11pm; v)
If frozen mojitos are your thing, get thee to Bikini. This hip restaurant and bar attracts a crowd of revelers with its affordable cocktails and varied menu. Caribbean dishes, pasta, salads, curries and sushi all pair well with strong drinks and a convivial atmosphere. There are also 32 vegan and vegetarian options.
oLaszlo’sSEAFOOD$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8730-6185; mains US$16; h6-9pm)
Whaddya get when you take a champion sport fisherman, born and raised in Transylvania, and transplant him to Puerto Viejo by way of New Jersey? Answer: an amazing, eclectic eatery with no sign and no menu that only opens when owner Laszlo catches enough fish. The day’s catch comes with garlic and parsley, homemade French fries and grilled veggies. Yum.
The homemade fruit cocktails are pretty special, too. Beer and wines also available. Find the restaurant two doors away from Exploradores Outdoors.
Koki BeachLATIN AMERICAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0902; http://kokibeach.blogspot.com.au; mains US$10-43; h5-11pm Tue-Sun, sometimes closed low season; W) S
A high-end favorite for drinks and dinner, this sleek eatery at the eastern end of town cranks up the lounge music and sports colorful Adirondack chairs that face the ocean from an elevated platform. There’s a decent selection of Peruvian-inflected ceviches, plus meat and other seafood dishes. Produce comes from local organic suppliers, but there are slim pickings for vegetarians.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Restaurants often metamorphose into rollicking bar scenes after the tables are cleared. For excellent people-watching over beer, try Bikini Restaurant & Bar. If you want to see and be seen, hit Koki Beach or eat the catch of the day at Laszlo’s or Mopri.
Outback Jack’sBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %8554-4903; h11am-11pm; W)
This Aussie-owned, junk-shop-style bar and grill is decorated with colorful refuse sculptures, bent pieces of metal, painted bikes and other recycled bits. Boards behind the outdoor bar read ‘moonshine,’ and they ain’t kidding: it comes in many varieties, including chocolate, coconut, mango and banana. A daily two-for-one happy hour runs from 11am to 5.30pm, and there’s live music in high season.
The adjacent grill sells tacos, steak and fish and chips and cooks fresh shrimp on the barbie (naturally!).
Salsa BravaBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/SalsaBravaBeachBar; cocktails from US$5; h11am-2am)
Specializing in tacos, Caribbean bowls and sweet plantain fries, this popular spot is the perfect end-of-day cocktail stop – hit happy hour from 4pm to 6pm and you’ll also catch two-for-one mojitos to enjoy while taking in the sunset over Salsa Brava surf break. On Friday and Sunday the bar brings in DJs for popular reggae nights.
Lazy MonCLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-2116; www.thelazymon.com; signature cocktails from US$5; hnoon-2:30am)
Run by brothers Khalil and Abasi and their friend Rocky, Puerto Viejo’s most dependable spot for live music opened in 2010. Lazy Mon draws big crowds, plays reggae, and serves two-for-one cocktails (4pm to 7pm); sometimes there’s even a ‘crappy hour’ (10pm to midnight). Try Jamakin’ Me Crzy, a potent mix of vanilla vodka, orange liquor, mango and coconut cream.
Point Bar & GrillSPORTS BAR
(%2756-8491; www.thepointcostarica.com; Playa Negra; h10:30am-11:30pm; W)
If you happen to be traveling during football season (or any other sport season, for that matter), you don’t have to miss the big game. Just head to this convivial spot on the beach northwest of town. Decent food, big screens, craft beer and daily drink deals – ’nuff said.
Johnny’s PlaceCLUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-2000; meals US$5-18; h11am-8pm Mon, Thu & Sun, to 3am Wed, Fri & Sat)
Once a beachside clubbing institution, Johnny’s slowed after the party started getting out of control in 2015. The place shut down briefly and reopened under new ownership as a classy restaurant (selling ceviche, salads, mixed rice and grilled fish) and bar with fancy cocktails. There are still DJs, dancing and occasional revelry on weekends, though.
7Shopping
Lulu Berlu GalleryARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2750-0394; h9am-9pm)
On a backstreet parallel to the main road, this gallery carries folk art, clothing, jewelry, ceramics, embroidered purses and mosaic mirrors, among many other one-of-a-kind, locally made items.
Organic MarketMARKET
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; h6am-noon Sat)
Don’t miss the weekly organic market, when local vendors and growers sell snacks typical of the region, particularly tropical produce and chocolate. Arrive before 9am or the best stuff will be long gone.
8Information
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Be aware that though the use of marijuana (and harder stuff) is common in Puerto Viejo, it is nonetheless illegal.
As in other popular tourist centers, theft can be an issue. Stay aware, use your hotel safe, and if staying outside of town avoid walking alone late at night.
INTERNET ACCESS
Most bars, cafes, guesthouses and hotels have wi-fi.
MONEY
Banco de Costa Rica (h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Two ATMs here work on Plus and Visa systems, dispensing both colones and dollars. Sometimes they run out of cash on weekends, and they can be finicky; if one machine won’t let you withdraw cash, try the other.
Banco Nacional (h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, ATM 6am-10pm daily) Just off the main street near the bridge into town. Dispenses colones only.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Costa Rica Way (%2750-3031; www.costaricaway.info; h8am-6pm) Operates a tourist-information center near the waterfront east of town, and lists hotel and restaurant info on its website.
Puerto Viejo Satellite (www.puertoviejosatellite.com) A good place to look for info on local lodgings, eating and activities.
8Getting There & Around
BICYCLE
A bicycle is a fine way to get around town, and pedaling out to beaches east of Puerto Viejo is one of the highlights of this corner of Costa Rica. You’ll find rentals all over town for about US$10 per day.
BUS
All public buses arrive at and depart from the bus stop along the beach road in central Puerto Viejo. The ticket office is diagonally across the street.
buses from puerto viejo
| Destination | Cost (US$) | Duration | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bribrí/Sixaola | 1.50/3.35 | 30/90min | hourly 7am-9pm |
| Cahuita/Puerto Limón | 1.50/3.60 | 45min/2hr | hourly 6am-8pm |
| Manzanillo | 1.30 | 30min | every 2hr 6:30am-6:45pm, less frequently weekends |
| San José | 10.90 | 5hr | 7am, 7:30am, 9am, 11am & 4pm |
SHUTTLE
An ever-growing number of companies offer convenient van shuttles from Puerto Viejo to other tourist hot spots around Costa Rica and down the coast to Bocas del Toro (Panama). For an exhaustive list, see Gecko Trail’s very helpful website (www.geckotrail.com).
Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita & Punta Uva
A 13km road winds east from Puerto Viejo through rows of coconut palms, alongside coastal lodges and through lush lowland rainforest before coming to a dead end at the sleepy town of Manzanillo. Though well paved, the road is narrow, so if you’re driving, take your time and be alert for cyclists and one-lane bridges.
1Sights
oPunta UvaBEACH
Off a dirt road marked by Punta Uva Dive Center is an idyllic quiet cove that could double for a scene in the Leonardo DiCaprio film The Beach. There are usually a couple of locals renting out surfboards on the sand, and the reef to the right of the cove is excellent for snorkeling and surfing (but not at the same time!). When the waves are up, this spot creates a forgiving peeling right-hand wave that’s suitable for intermediates.
oPlaya CoclesBEACH
Playa Cocles has waves for surfers who aren’t keen to break skin and bones at nearby Salsa Brava (Costa Rica’s biggest break). Instead, it has steep lefts and rights, which break (and often dump) on the steep sandy beach. During the right tide and swell, the best wave breaks near the island offshore; this spot produces a mellow left-hand longboarder’s ride over a deep reef. Conditions are best from December to March, and early in the day before winds pick up.
The organized lifeguard system helps offset the dangers of the frequent riptides.
Jaguar Centro de RescateWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%2750-0710; www.jaguarrescue.foundation; Playa Chiquita; 1½hr tours adult/child under 10yr US$20/free; htours 9:30am & 11:30am Mon-Sat; c) S
Named in honor of its original resident, a jaguar, this well-run wildlife-rescue center in Playa Chiquita now focuses mostly on other animals, including sloths, alligators, anteaters, snakes and monkeys. Founded by zoologist Encar and her partner, Sandro, a herpetologist, the center rehabilitates orphaned, injured and rescued animals, for reintroduction into the wild whenever possible.
Volunteer opportunities (US$350 including accommodation) are available with a one-month minimum commitment.
2Activities
The region’s biggest draws are surf, sand, wildlife-watching and tanning.
Greg’s Surf SchoolSURFING
(%8877-4115, 6010-6099; willony@hotmail.com; 1hr/day board rental US$5/20, 1½hr lessons US$40)
You’ll usually find friendly Manzanillo local Greg set up on the shaded left-hand side of Punta Cocles beach, displaying his selection of surfboards. By prior arrangement he leads surf safaris to the spots with the best conditions in the area.
Indulgence SpaSPA
(%2750-0536; www.indulgencespa-salon.com; Playa Cocles; treatments from US$8, massages US$25-85; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat)
The southern Caribbean’s best day spa. It’s located at La Costa de Papito.
Punta Uva Dive CenterDIVING
(%2759-9191; www.puntauvadivecenter.com; Punta Uva; shore/boat dives from US$85/95)
Offers fun dives, night dives, PADI courses, snorkeling tours (US$55), SUP tours (US$75) and kayak hire (US$10 per hour). Clearly signposted off the main road in Punta Uva.
TTours
Chocolate Forest ExperienceTOURS
(%2750-0504, 8341-2034; www.caribeanscr.com; Playa Cocles; tours US$28; h8:30am-6pm Mon-Sat, tours 10am Mon, 10am & 2pm Tue & Thu, 2pm Fri & Sat) S
Playa Cocles–based chocolate producer Caribeans leads tours of its sustainable cacao forest and chocolate-creation lab, accompanied by gourmet chocolate tastings. There’s also a shop with a refrigerated chocolate room where visitors can try several varieties of chocolate flavor.
Crazy Monkey Canopy TourADVENTURE
(%2271-3000, in USA 800-253-6591; www.almondsandcorals.com/activities/crazy-monkey-canopy-ride; per person US$60; h10am-2pm)
The region’s only canopy tour has 13 cables and platforms among the trees, with treetop views of nature and a thatched indigenous village. The 1¼-hour tour finishes on the beach. Located between Punta Uva and Manzanillo, it’s operated by Almonds & Corals Lodge.
4Sleeping
This stretch of coastline features some of the most charming and romantic accommodations in the country.
4Playa Cocles
The broad, 2km, white-sand Playa Cocles lies within easy walking distance east of Puerto Viejo (only 1.5km away), offering proximity to the village and its many restaurants but plenty of peace and quiet, too.
PhysisB&B$$
(%8866-4405, 2750-0941; www.physiscaribbean.net; incl breakfast d US$85-105, tr US$100-115; aW)
Comforts abound at this four-bedroom B&B, tucked down a Playa Cocles side road and managed by expatriates Jeremy and Emily. There are free Netflix movies in the smaller downstairs units, satellite TV in the honeymoon suite, and sound systems, dehumidifiers, air-con, mini fridges and super-strong wi-fi throughout. The pretty garden has water features, and nature scenes adorn the bright external walls.
Finca ChicaBUNGALOW$$
(%2750-1919; www.fincachica.com; bungalows US$65-130; W)
Surrounded by lush tropical greenery, four stand-alone wooden houses range from a two-person bungalow to an amazing three-story structure known as ‘La Casita del Río’ that sleeps up to six. All have fully equipped kitchens, and three have spacious living and dining areas. It’s tucked down a dead-end dirt driveway a few hundred meters off the main road.
El Tucán Jungle LodgeCABINA$$
(%2750-0026; www.eltucanjunglelodge.com; s/d/tr/q US$48/58/68/78; pW)
Only 1km off the road, this jungle retreat feels miles from anywhere, making it ideal for birdwatchers. Four clean wooden cabinas on the banks of the Caño Negro share a broad patio with hammocks, from which you can observe sloths, monkeys, iguanas, toucans and more. Upon request the welcoming owners serve breakfast (per person US$8) and organize walks in the area.
Hotel Isla InnCABINA$$
(%2537-9338, 2750-0109; www.hotelislainn.net; d/f/master ste US$90/190/220; paWs)
Opposite the lifeguard tower at the main hub of Playa Cocles lies this efficient wooden lodge with expansive rooms, some sleeping up to five. All rooms are equipped with safe, cable TV, hot shower, coffee maker, fridge and handmade wooden furnishings crafted from the slightly curved outer boards that are discarded during lumber processing.
Azánia BungalowsBUNGALOW$$$
(%2750-0540; www.azania-costarica.com; d incl breakfast US$100, additional person US$25; pis)
Ten spacious but dark thatch-roofed bungalows are brightened up by colorful linens at this charming inn set on landscaped jungle grounds. Nice details include woven bedspreads, well-designed bathrooms and wide-plank hardwood floors. A free-form pool and a Jacuzzi nestle into the greenery, and there’s an Argentine restaurant and bar. Rooms sleep up to four people.
La Costa de PapitoBUNGALOW$$$
(%2750-0080; www.lacostadepapito.com; d incl breakfast US$128, additional adult/child US$19/9; pW)
Relax in rustic comfort in the sculpture-studded grounds of this popular Cocles outpost, which has timber-and-bamboo bungalows decked out with hand-carved furniture, stone bathrooms straight out of The Flintstones and roomy porches draped with hammocks. The restaurant serves Caribbean specialties, while the rustic, palm-thatched Indulgence Spa offers massage and spa treatments.
4Playa Chiquita
It isn’t exactly clear where Playa Cocles ends and Playa Chiquita begins, but conventional wisdom applies the latter name to a series of beaches 4km to 6km east of Puerto Viejo.
oTree House LodgeBUNGALOW$$$
(%2750-0706; www.costaricatreehouse.com; d US$250-590, extra person US$50; p) S
Adventurers who like their lodgings whimsical will love these five open-air casitas, including a literal ‘tree house’: a two-story cabin built around a living sangrillo tree, complete with a minigolf course around the trunk. All have kitchens, barbecues, spacious decks with easy chairs and hammocks, and private paths leading to a small white-sand beach.
Houses sleep up to five and have mosquito nets; one has a Jacuzzi.
La KukulaBUNGALOW$$$
(%2750-0653; www.lakukulalodge.com; d incl breakfast US$110-130; s) S
Three tastefully spaced ‘tropical contemporary’ bungalows bring guests close to nature with natural ventilation (super-high ceilings and screen walls) and open jungle views from the rain showers. The wood-decked pool is great for bird- and frog-watching. For larger groups a three-bedroom house, with private kitchen and pool, sleeps up to nine. The delicious breakfast features homemade bread and marmalade.
Shawandha LodgeBUNGALOW$$$
(%2750-0018; www.shawandha.com; d incl breakfast US$147, additional person US$30; paWs)
Immersed in greenery, with frogs, agoutis and other tropical critters close by, this upscale lodge has 14 private, spacious, nature-themed bungalows painted in earth tones and equipped with large mosaic-tiled bathrooms. A meticulously maintained thatched rancho serves as an open-air lounge, and there’s a French-Caribbean restaurant. A private path across the road leads to the beach.
Tierra de SueñosBUNGALOW$$$
(%2750-0378; www.tierradesuenoslodge.com; bungalows incl breakfast US$105-155; pW) S
True to its name (‘land of dreams’), this blissful garden retreat comprises seven adorable wood bungalows with mosquito nets and private decks. The quiet, tropical atmosphere is complemented by regular yoga (US$8/10 for guests/nonguests) on an open-air platform. Laundry (US$10 per load) and bicycle hire (US$8) are available, as is wi-fi (common areas only). Bungalows sleep two to five.
4Punta Uva
In calm seas, Punta Uva has one of the region’s most swimmable beaches. It’s a quiet spot, embraced by a palm-tree-lined cove. To find the turnoff to the point (about 7km east of Puerto Viejo), look for the Punta Uva Dive Center sign.
Walaba HostelHOSTEL$
(%2750-0147; www.walabahostel.hostel.com; tw US$30, dm/s/d without bathroom US$18/21/26; pW)
Funky, colorful and relatively cheap for Punta Uva, this ramshackle collection of open-air dorms, private rooms (including an ‘attic’ double reached by a ladder) and small cabins is surrounded by a flowery garden and managed by friendly staff. Guests share ample kitchen facilities, hot and cold showers, and a creaky-floored communal area with games, books and DVDs.
oCabinas Punta UvaCABINA$$
(%2759-9180; www.cabinaspuntauva.com; cabinas with/without private kitchen US$90/65; pW#)
Steps from idyllic Punta Uva, this cluster of cabinas with tiled bathrooms, polished-wood verandas, hammocks and a shared open-air kitchen is hidden down a dead-end street in a verdant garden setting. Fall asleep to the sound of crashing waves and chirping insects and wake up to the roar of the resident howler monkeys. Wi-fi’s available in common areas.
Villas del CaribeHOTEL$$
(%2233-2200, 2750-0202; www.villasdelcaribe.com; incl breakfast d US$90, villas US$125-185; paWs)
With a prime location near the beach, this resort offers lovely, brightly painted rooms, comfortable beds, sitting areas and roomy bathrooms with Spanish tiles. Junior villas also come with kitchenettes, while the two-story villas have ocean views, king-size beds, kitchens and barbecues. All have private decks with hammocks. Select villas have air-conditioning. Wi-fi is available in the bar area.
Casa VivaBUNGALOW$$$
(%2750-0089; www.puntauva.net; 1-bedroom houses US$100, 2-bedroom houses d/tr/q US$130/160/190; pW)
Beautifully handcrafted by a master carpenter, these enormous, fully furnished hardwood houses, each with tiled shower, kitchen and wraparound veranda, are set on a beachfront property – an ideal spot in which to chill out in a hammock and observe the local wildlife. Ask about weekly and monthly rates. Fans available in rooms.
Korrigan LodgeBUNGALOW$$$
(%2759-9103; www.korriganlodge.com; d incl breakfast US$115, extra person US$20; p)
Nestled into a patch of jungle near the main road, these four thatch-roofed wood-and-concrete bungalows come with minibar, safe, fan, modern bathroom, and private terrace with hammock. All guests have access to free bikes. Breakfast is served in an open-air rancho surrounded by gardens.
5Eating
Playa Cocles is close to the lively eating options of Puerto Viejo; after that, the pickings get slim until you approach Punta Uva, which has a cluster of fantastic restaurants.
Pita BonitaMIDDLE EASTERN$$
(%2756-8173; Playa Chiquita; US$7.50-13.50; h1-9pm Mon-Sat)
For Turkish coffee, hummus and the best pita bread in the Caribbean, this Israeli-owned spot is the place. There’s also creamy moutabal (a roasted-aubergine and tahini dip), spicy shakshuka (a Middle Eastern dish with poached eggs and tomato sauce) and fresh tabouli (tomatoes, parsley, mint, bulgur, lemon juice and onion). Find the open-air restaurant across from Tree House Lodge.
There’s a good selection of liquor, beer and wines, too.
oSelvin’s RestaurantCARIBBEAN$$
(%2750-0664; www.selvinpuntauva.com; Punta Uva; mains US$12-18; hnoon-8pm Thu-Sun)
Selvin has been serving Caribbean food since 1982 and his place is considered one of the region’s best, specializing in shrimp, sautéed lobster in butter, garlic and onion, T-bone steak, a terrific rondón (seafood gumbo) and a succulent chicken caribeño (chicken stewed in a spicy Caribbean sauce). Those with a sweet tooth will enjoy the organic chocolate bar and coconut candy.
Pura GulaINTERNATIONAL$$
(%8634-6404; Punta Uva; mains US$6-16; h2-4pm & 6-10pm)
The short but solid menu at this casually elegant eatery includes teriyaki scallops, pad Thai, pasta with macadamia pesto, and homemade egg flan. Everything’s served on a pleasant open-air deck, just off the main road between Playa Chiquita and Punta Uva.
El RefugioARGENTINE, INTERNATIONAL$$$
(%2759-9007; Punta Uva; mains US$12-25; h5-9pm Thu-Tue)
This Argentine-owned restaurant with only five tables is renowned for its rotating menu of three appetizers, five main dishes and three desserts. New offerings get chalked up on the board daily, anchored by perennial favorites such as red tuna in garlic, bife de entraña with chimichurri (beef in a marinade of parsley, garlic and spices) and dulce de leche crepes. Reserve ahead.
La Pecora NeraITALIAN$$$
(%2750-0490; Playa Cocles; mains US$15-30; h5:30-10pm Tue-Sun; v)
If you’re looking to splurge on a fancy meal during your trip, do it at this romantic eatery run by Ilario Giannoni. On a lovely, candlelit patio, deftly prepared Italian seafood and pasta dishes are served alongside unusual offerings such as the delicate carpaccio di carambola: transparent slices of starfruit topped with shrimp, tomatoes and balsamic vinaigrette. Menu options change frequently.
There is an extensive wine list, but you can’t go wrong with the well-chosen and relatively inexpensive house wines.
8Getting There & Away
Buses heading from Puerto Viejo to Manzanillo will stop at Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita or Punta Uva on request. Alternatively, it’s an easy and pleasant 30- to 40-minute slow cycle from Puerto Viejo to Punta Uva (bike hire is roughly US$10 per day). Don’t cycle without strong bike lights after dark, as these roads are not lit.
WORTH A TRIP
VISITING INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES
At least two indigenous groups occupied the territory on the Caribbean side of the country from pre-Columbian times. The Bribrí people tended to inhabit lowland areas, while the Cabécar people made their home high in the Cordillera de Talamanca. Over the last century, members of both ethnic groups have migrated to the Pacific side. But many have stayed on the coast, intermarrying with Jamaican immigrants and even working in the banana industry. Today the Bribrí tend to be more acculturated, while the Cabécar are more isolated.
The groups have distinct languages (which are preserved to some degree), though they share similar architecture, weapons and canoe style. They also share the spiritual belief that the planet – and the flora and fauna contained within it – are gifts from Sibö (God). Taking Care of Sibö’s Gifts, by Juanita Sánchez, Gloria Mayorga and Paula Palmer, is a remarkable record of Bribrí history and available online.
Making it Happen
There are several reserves on the Caribbean slopes of the Cordillera de Talamanca, including the Talamanca Cabécar territory (which is more difficult to visit) and the Bribrí territory, where locals are more equipped to handle visitors.
The most interesting destination is Yorkín, in the Reserva Indígena Yorkín. Only reachable by boat, the village is situated on the Río Yorkín, bordering Panama. Immersive day, one-night and two-night tours (from $210 per person including meals, transfers and experiences) entail travel via dugout canoe followed by local demonstrations of roof thatching, the uses of medicinal plants, and basket-weaving. You can tuck into a Bribrí-style lunch and learn the chocolate-making process (eating some samples for dessert). An optional hike in the highlands is also possible. It’s a rewarding experience, well worth the time and effort to get there.
Alternatively, you can do day trips (US$59) to the territory of the Kèköldi (a tiny group ethnically related to the Bribrí), where you’ll go on a 2½-hour nature-spotting hike to the village and enjoy a traditional lunch cooked over a log fire by members of the community.
Visiting these territories independently is not recommended. Not only are many spots difficult to reach but in most cases villages do not have the infrastructure to accommodate streams of tourists. During your visit, bear in mind that these are people’s private homes and work spaces, not tourist attractions.
Terraventuras in Puerto Viejo runs day tours to Bribrí (US$80 per person) that include a meeting with an Awa (a Bribrí doctor), who will demonstrate medicinal customs and do a purification ceremony. Willie’s Tours in Cahuita does day, one-night and two-night trips to Yorkín and a day trip to the Kèköldi territory.
Manzanillo
POP 3250
The chilled-out village of Manzanillo has long been off the beaten track, even after the paved road arrived in 2003. This little town is still a vibrant outpost of Afro-Caribbean culture and has also remained pristine, thanks to the 1985 establishment of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo, which includes the village and imposes strict regulations on regional development.
Activities are of a simple nature, in nature: hiking, snorkeling and kayaking reign supreme. As elsewhere, ask about riptides before heading out.
2Activities
Bad BartsSNORKELING
(%8650-2860, 2759-9012; www.badbartsmanzanillo.com; per hour bike/snorkel/kayak rental US$2/4/6; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun)
Near the bus stop in Manzanillo, this outfit rents snorkel and scuba gear, kayaks, boogie boards and bicycles. Hours can vary; call ahead.
4Sleeping
Cabinas ManzanilloCABINA$
(%2759-9033, 8327-3291; s/d US$35/40; pW)
Run by the ever-helpful Sandra Castillo and Pablo Bustamante, these eight cabinas at Manzanillo’s western edge are so clean you could eat off the tile floors. The cheery rooms have big beds, industrial-strength ceiling fans, TVs, safes and spacious bathrooms with hot water. There’s also a shared kitchen. From Maxi’s Restaurant, travel 300m west toward Punta Uva, then make a left onto the signposted dirt road.
Sumaqtikaq CabinsGUESTHOUSE$$
(%2759-9146, 2261-8186, 8860-9331; www.cabinas-sumaqtikaq.com; incl breakfast cabins for 2-3 people US$60, 5 people US$80, houses for 11 people US$300; pW)
The best option for groups, this guesthouse with indigenous art and a pretty garden has two double rooms, a room sleeping five and a two-story house sleeping 11. Facilities include shared kitchen, barbecue and laundry service. Some rooms have refrigerators, mosquito nets and hammocks. Tours to the nearby Gandoca-Manzanillo wildlife refuge can be arranged here. There’s a four-night minimum stay.
Almonds & Corals LodgeBUNGALOW$$$
(%2759-9031, 2271-3000, in USA 1-888-373-9042; www.almondsandcorals.com; ste incl breakfast US$145-245, additional person from US$20; piWs) S
Buried in the jungle, this beachfront spot is popular with honeymooners. Its 24 green palm-roofed bungalows, with netted walls, in-room safes, mini fridges and rain showers, are connected by wooden boardwalks. Accommodation features four-poster beds, Jacuzzis, and patios with hammocks from which to enjoy nature’s serenade. A breakfast buffet is included; other meals can be purchased at the restaurant.
Wi-fi is available in the lobby only.
Congo BongoBUNGALOW$$$
(%2759-9016; www.congo-bongo.com; bungalows US$132-195, extra person US$15; pW)
About 1km outside Manzanillo towards Punta Uva, these seven charming cottages surrounded by dense forest (formerly a cacao plantation) offer fully equipped kitchens and plenty of living space, including open-air terraces and strategically placed hammocks that are perfect for wildlife-watching. A network of trails leads through the 6 hectares of grounds to the beautiful beach. There’s a two-night minimum stay.
5Eating
Maxi’s RestaurantCARIBBEAN$$
(%2759-9086; mains US$7-14, lobster US$45-70; hnoon-10pm; Wv)
Manzanillo’s most famous restaurant draws a tourist crowd with large platters of grilled seafood, pargo rojo (whole red snapper), ceviche, pork and rice, steak, and pricey Caribbean-style lobster. Service can be slow, but the open-air upstairs dining area is a wonderful seaside setting for a meal and a beer with views of the beach and the street below.
It’s at the end of the road into town (where buses arrive).
Cool & Calm CafeCARIBBEAN$$$
(mains US$12-26; h11am-9pm Wed-Mon)
Directly across from Manzanillo’s western beachfront, this front-porch eatery plies visitors with fine Caribbean cooking – from snapper to shrimp to chicken to lobster – with a few extras like guacamole, tacos and veggie curry thrown in for good measure. Owner Andy offers Caribbean cooking classes and a ‘reef-to-plate’ tour where, in certain seasons, you can dive for your own lobster or fish.
Andy catches the lobster and prepares his outrageous lobster caribeño daily.
8Getting There & Away
Buses to Puerto Limón via Puerto Viejo depart from Manzanillo at 5:30am, 6am, 10:30am, 3pm and 6pm (to Puerto Limón roughly US$5, 2½ hours; to Puerto Viejo US$1.50, 30 minutes). Buses from Puerto Limón to Manzanillo (via Puerto Viejo) depart at 5am, 7am, 8:30am, 10:30am, 12:45pm and 5:15pm.
Autotransportes Mepe also runs one direct bus daily between Manzanillo and San José (about US$13, five hours), leaving Manzanillo at 7am.
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo
This little-explored refuge (Regama; %2759-9100; US$6; h8am-4pm) protects nearly 70% of the southern Caribbean coast, extending from Manzanillo all the way to the Panamanian border. It encompasses 50 sq km of land plus 44 sq km of marine environment. The peaceful, pristine stretch of sandy white beach – one of the area’s main attractions and the center of village life in Manzanillo – stretches from Punta Uva in the west to Punta Mona in the east. Offshore, a 5-sq-km coral reef is a teeming habitat for lobsters, sea fans and long-spined urchins.
2Activities
Hiking
A coastal trail heads 5.5km east out of Manzanillo to Punta Mona. The first part of this path, which leads from Manzanillo to Tom Bay (about a 40-minute walk), is well trammeled and clearly marked and doesn’t require a guide. Once you pass Tom Bay, however, the path gets murky and it’s easy to get lost, so ask about conditions before you set out, or hire a local guide. It’s a rewarding walk with amazing scenery, as well as excellent (and safe) swimming and snorkeling at the end.
Another, more difficult, 9km trail leaves from just west of Manzanillo and skirts the southern edges of the Pantano Punta Mona, continuing to the small community of Gandoca. This trail is not commonly walked, as most people access Punta Mona and Gandoca by boat or from the park entrance at the northern edge of the refuge, which is located on the road to Sixaola. If you want to try to hike this, be sure to hire a guide.
A third trail in the reserve takes visitors through thick forest. Parts of this trail were previously dangerous or difficult to access, but now some sections are covered with a boardwalk made of wood and plastic. Again, however, it’s best to use a local guide.
Snorkeling & Diving
The undersea portion of the park cradles one of the two accessible living coral reefs in the country. Comprising five types of coral, the reefs begin in about 1m of water and extend 5km offshore to a barrier reef that local fishers have long relied on and researchers have only recently discovered. This colorful undersea world is home to some 400 species of fish and crustaceans. Punta Mona is a popular destination for snorkeling, though it’s a trek, so you may wish to hire a boat. Otherwise, you can snorkel offshore at Manzanillo at the eastern end of the beach; the riptide can be dangerous here, so inquire about conditions before setting out. Also check out the Coral Reef Information Center at Bad Barts in Manzanillo.
Conditions vary widely, and visibility can be adversely affected by weather changes.
Kayaking
You can explore some of the area’s waterways by kayak; rental is available at Bad Barts. Paddle out to the reef, and on clear days you’ll be able to gaze right into the water and see marine life. If you have kids in tow, head along the coastline west or east of Manzanillo village for shorter paddles.
Dolphin-Watching
In 1997 a group of local guides in Manzanillo identified tucuxi dolphins, a little-known species previously not found in Costa Rica, and began to observe their interactions with bottlenose dolphins. A third species – the Atlantic spotted dolphin – is also common in this area. This unprecedented activity has attracted the attention of marine biologists and conservationists, who are following these animals with great interest.
For dolphin-watching trips in the reserve (from US$50 for three hours), contact Bad Barts. Note that in Costa Rica it is illegal to swim with dolphins; be sure to keep a distance from the animals and refrain from touching or bothering them.
Turtle-Watching
Marine turtles – especially leatherback but also green, hawksbill and loggerhead – nest on the beaches between Punta Mona and the Río Sixaola. Leatherbacks nest from March to July, with a peak in April and May. Local conservation efforts are under way to protect these nesting grounds, as the growth of the area’s human population has led to increased theft of turtle eggs.
During turtle season, no flashlights, fires or camping are allowed on the beach. All tourists must be accompanied by a local guide to minimize disturbance of the nesting turtles.
TTours
You could explore the refuge on your own, but without a guide you’ll likely miss out on the incredible diversity of medicinal plants, exotic birds and earthbound animals. Most guides charge from US$35 per person per trek, depending on the size of the group. Ask at Maxi’s in Manzanillo.
Recommended local guides include Florentino Grenald (%8841-2732; 4hr tours per person from US$40), who used to serve as the reserve’s administrator, Omar (%8932-0030; h4-5hr hikes per person US$40) and Abel Bustamante (%2759-9043).
4Sleeping & Eating
Pack some snacks for a day hike, or call ahead to Punta Mona to make reservations for lunch there. The exotic garden contains plants from all over the world, making for some truly delicious organic salads. After a hike, grab a fruit smoothie and some tasty Caribbean food at Cool & Calm Café in Manzanillo, just a short walk north of the refuge entrance.
oPunta MonaCABINA$$
(www.puntamona.org; cabinas per person incl 3 organic meals US$90; i) S
Accessible via a two-hour trek or a 15-minute boat ride, this 35-hectare organic farm and retreat 5km southeast of Manzanillo is a thriving experiment in permaculture design and sustainable living. More than 200 varieties of fruit and nut trees and hundreds of edible greens, roots, veggies and medicinal plants grow here. Vegetarian meals are included in the rate.
At the time of research Punta Mona was one of the largest sources of useful plants in the world, and Stephen Brooks, who set the place up, was also establishing the world’s first eco-versity here. He continues to host yoga retreats and a jungle camp. To arrange accommodation and transportation, email contact@puntamona.org ahead of your visit. Day trips with lunch are also possible in this paradise setting; boat taxis cost roughly US$50.
Nature ObservatorioCAMPGROUND$$$
(%8628-2663; www.natureobservatorio.com; adult/child US$160/100) S
Located 80ft up in a tree within the Gandoca-Manzanillo wildlife refuge, this observation deck and tree house allows guests to experience life in the canopy of an old-growth forest. The open-air, two-story accommodation features hammocks and comfy beds from which monkeys, kinkajous and toucans are regularly spotted. To reach the platform, guests must climb the tree (harnesses provided).
The owner, an ardent conservationist, collects his customers in Manzanillo at 1pm each day and leads them on a 45-minute hike to the tree, which he helps them to scale on a rope ladder. Dinner and breakfast are delivered up the tree in a basket. The entire deck is only 60 sq meters and includes just two units sleeping two people each.
8Information
An excellent photo book on the area, with commentary in Spanish and English, is Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo by Juan José Puccí, available locally and online.
Minae (%2755-0302, 2759-9100; h8am-4pm Fri & Sat) is located in the green wooden house as you enter Manzanillo; when it’s open it generally has trail maps of the refuge.
8Getting There & Away
Buses to Manzanillo drop off in front of Maxi’s Restaurant. From there it’s about 1km to the refuge entrance. A bridge allows guests to enter the park without having to wade through the water at high tide. Another good option for accessing different areas of the park is to hire a boat. José (%5006-3361) operates a good local water taxi.
Sixaola
POP 3400
This is the end of the road – literally. Bumpy tarmac leads to an old railroad bridge over the Río Sixaola that serves as the border crossing into Panama. Like most border towns, Sixaola is hardly scenic: it’s an extravaganza of dingy houses and roadside stalls selling rubber boots.
There’s no good reason to stay in Sixaola, but if you get stuck, head for safe, clean Cabinas Sanchez (%2754-2126; d/tr US$20/30; aW).
8Getting There & Away
The bus station is just north of the border crossing, one block east of the main drag.
Buses to San José (about US$14, six hours) run hourly from 6am to 1pm, and at 3pm, 4pm and 7pm, with a change in Puerto Limón (about US$7, three hours from Sixaola). All buses pass Bribrí and Cahuita.
There are also regular buses to Puerto Viejo (about US$3, one hour), running hourly between 6am and 7pm Monday to Saturday, every two hours on Sunday.
GETTING TO PANAMA
Welcome to Costa Rica’s most entertaining border crossing! An old railroad bridge spans the churning waters of the Río Sixaola, connecting Costa Rica with Panama amid a sea of agricultural plantations. Oversize buses and trucks used to ply this route – making for a surreal scene whenever one of them came clattering along the wood planks, forcing pedestrians to scatter to the edges. Today there’s a parallel bridge for motor-vehicle traffic, but pedestrians still get the fun of walking across the old bridge.
From here, most travelers make for Bocas del Toro, a picturesque archipelago of jungle islands that’s home to lovely beaches and endangered red frogs. It’s easily accessible by regular water taxi from the docks at Almirante.
The border is open 7am to 5pm (8am to 6pm in Guabito, Panama, which is an hour ahead of Costa Rica), though one or both sides may close for lunch at around 1pm. At the entrance to the bridge, on the right-hand side, pay the US$8 Costa Rican departure tax and get your exit stamp at the Costa Rican immigration office. It’s best to bring cash in case the electronic machine is not working. Once you’re over the bridge, stop at Panamanian immigration to get your passport stamped and pay the US$4 entry tax. Note that in Panama you will be required to show proof of onward travel out of Panama, or another central American country, to your home country, such as a copy of your plane ticket home. To cross, you’ll need a passport valid for more than six months; sometimes proof of at least US$500 in your bank account is also required, although it’s not often requested at the Sixaola border. Be prepared with a copy of a recent bank statement or ATM receipt. A copy of your passport is always a good idea, too. Personal cars (not rentals) can cross here. Be aware that sometimes lines here can be long; plan your onward travel accordingly.
Guabito has no hotels or banks, but in a pinch you can exchange colones at the market across the street. From the border, half-hourly buses (about US$2, one hour) run to Terminal Piquera in Changuinola, where you can transfer to one of the frequent buses to Almirante (roughly US$2, 45 minutes) for the water taxi. Alternatively, from Guabito you can take a collective taxi (per person around US$10, one hour) straight to Almirante. From this point, hourly water taxis (per person US$6, 25 minutes) make the trip to Bocas del Toro between 6:30am and 6pm.
For a more streamlined, if slightly more expensive, trip to Bocas del Toro, take one of the daily shuttles from Cahuita or Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (it’s US$33 with Caribe Shuttle).