InterAmericana Norte
Despite Tico speed demons and lumbering big rigs, the Interamericana offers a wide-angle view of the region. The main artery connecting San José with Managua runs through kilometers of tropical dry forest and neat roadside villages to the open Guanacaste grasslands, where savanna vistas are broken only by windblown trees. Along the way, thin, mostly earthen roads branch off and wander up the slopes of hulking volcanoes shrouded in cloud forest, skirt hidden waterfalls and meander into vast estuaries that kiss pristine bays.
8Getting There & Away
The 50km stretch of road between Cañas and Liberia has undergone a huge, US$200 million improvement in recent years. There are additional lanes, overpasses and on-off ramps that have made driving easier (and much faster) along this stretch. The only downside is that some formerly easy turns into towns have been complicated by the overpasses. Your destination is probably not on the Interamericana itself, but somewhere off of it. Once you leave the highway, you may wish you had a 4WD.
If you’re traveling by bus, you are likely to have to break your journey (to change buses) in Cañas, Bagaces, Liberia or La Cruz.
Montes de Oro
Northeast of Puntarenas, Montes de Oro is a gold-mining district that’s tucked into the slopes and valleys of the Cordillera de Tilarán. A good number of day-trippers come up from Puntarenas and other coastal towns to fly through the trees on one of the country’s biggest canopy tours. Otherwise, this area is largely off the beaten track, with few facilities catering to independent travelers; you’ll need your own vehicle (a 4WD, of course) and a sense of adventure. In the district capital Miramar, you’ll discover a real Tico town that’s largely untouched by tourism. And if you make it all the way up to Zapotal, at 1500m above sea level, you’ll have unparalleled views all the way down to the Golfo de Nicoya and a cloud forest of your very own.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
LE ENSEñADA LODGE & WILDLIFE REFUGE
La Enseñada Lodge & Wildlife Refuge (
%2289-6655; www.laensenada.net; Km 155 Interamericana, Abangaritos; s/d/tr/q US$55/65/75/89, meals US$8-18; 
p
W
s) is a wonderfully remote 324-hectare working cattle ranch, salt farm and papaya orchard. It is an incredible setting for birding, horseback riding and good old-fashioned R&R. Rustic but comfortable wooden bungalows face the Golfo de Nicoya, and have private solar-heated bathrooms and patios with hammocks. There’s also a restaurant, tennis courts, a romantically rickety jetty and a terrific trail network.
Containing primary and secondary forest (a rarity in this part of the country), as well as mangrove swamps at the mouth of the Río Abangares, this property has been declared a national wildlife refuge. Boat tours to the mangroves (per person US$102) offer the chance to glimpse dozens of bird species, caimans and crocs, while horseback tours (US$30) take you through the tropical dry forest.
2Activities
Colinas Verdes ZapotalHIKING, MOUNTAIN BIKING
(%2639-8516, 8829-0619; www.colinasverdescr.com; Jabonal; admission to trails US$10)
You’ll find a little bit of magic amid the clouds at Colinas Verdes, set on 35 hectares of emerald-green hills and misty skies. Much of the property has been set aside for conservation and reforestation, but you’ll find 4km of biking/hiking trails winding their way through the forest, with five hanging bridges, four short zipline cables and countless stunning vistas.
Finca Daniel Adventure ParkADVENTURE SPORTS
(%2639-8303, 8382-3312; www.finca-daniel.com; Tajo Alto; rope obstacle course US$60, canopy tour US$99-114)
Just when you thought you had arrived in a place where no tourist had gone before… there’s a flag-waving, adrenaline-rushing, scream-inducing adventure park, catering to busloads of day-trippers from the coast. It offers purportedly one of the biggest canopy tours in the country, with 25 cables and 11 waterfalls (some dip-worthy). There’s also a rope obstacle course through the trees. The place is definitely fun, but the big groups may be a detractor. If you don’t have your own wheels, the adventure park can bus you in from Puntarenas, Jacó, the northern Península de Nicoya, or even San José. It’s located on the grounds of the Hotel Vista Golfo, about 7km north of Miramar, in Tajo Alto.
4Sleeping
There are a few lovely places to stay around Miramar and Zapotal, but they are all small and this region is remote, so make sure to reserve in advance so you’re not stranded.
Hotel Vista GolfoHOTEL$$
(%8382-3312, 2639-8303; www.finca-daniel.com; Tajo Alto; d/tr/q incl breakfast US$87/100/110, ste incl breakfast US$120-150; p
aWs)
On-site at the Finca Daniel Adventure Park, this hotel is a pleasant place with a tranquil mountain setting that’s perfect for getting a little fresh air. Comfortable rooms have traditional decor and private terraces, some with sweeping views of the Golfo de Nicoya. Located 7km due north of Miramar.
8Getting There & Away
The town of Miramar is the capital of this district and the main population center. It’s 6km north of the Interamericana on a good paved road. The small village of Zapotal is a further 16km northeast, and it’s a rough road into the clouds.
There are four buses a day connecting Miramar to San José (US$4, 2½ hours). Nonetheless, this is a difficult area to navigate without your own car. Be advised that the roads here are frequently washed out during the rainy season, so a 4WD is highly recommended.
Volcán Tenorio Area
Part of the Area de Conservación Arenal (ACA), Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio is a cool, misty and magical place highlighted by cloud forests and the icy-blue Río Celeste; the region is known locally by the river’s name. The park entrance is located just north of Bijagua (pronounced ‘bee-hag-gwa’); the town, which leads the way in rural community tourism, is the main base for visiting this natural wonder.
8Getting There & Away
About 7km north of Cañas, Hwy 6 branches off the Interamericana and heads north toward Upala, passing through the small town of Bijagua. From Bijagua, there is a graded dirt road on the right that leads 9km to the entrance of Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio. If you’re coming from the east, you can also reach the park from Hwy 4, coming up from La Fortuna. If you have your own wheels, it’s a doable day trip from Liberia, Cañas or La Fortuna.
If you don’t have your own wheels, you can catch a bus from Liberia (US$4), San José or Upala (US$2.50) to Bijagua, then book a tour locally or catch a taxi (US$50) to the park entrance.
Bijagua
POP 5200
The only sizable town in the Tenorio sphere is Bijagua, a small farming community that’s strung out along Hwy 6, halfway between the Interamericana and the bigger town of Upala. It’s a hidden gem.
Bijagua is a leader in rural community tourism. It started with the Heliconias Rainforest Lodge, managed by a cooperative of local families. That spirit continues in small-scale tours that mimic – on a more charming level – the night tours and chocolate tours of more established tourism centers. Now the ‘graduates’ of Heliconias have founded their own businesses, and a growing entrepreneurial spirit along with a genuine down-to-earth Tico vibe make this a wonderful place to base yourself while visiting the nearby hotspots of Tenorio, Palo Verde, and even La Fortuna (the big one).
1Sights
Finca Verde LodgeFARM
(%2466-8069, 8918-4805; www.fincaverdelodge.com/activities; day/night tour US$12/14; 
htours at 8am, 10am, noon, 2pm & 4pm; p)
Sloths, frogs, snakes, butterflies and prolific birdlife inhabit the gorgeous grounds of this finca, worth a visit to see the methods of a working organic farm. It’s located on a rather rough road a few kilometers southeast of the main highway.
2Activities
Jorge SotoBIRDWATCHING
(%8314-9784)
Jorge is an independent bird guide and one of the top guys in this part of the country. He can cater trips to your needs (and life lists!). He doesn’t have an office, but you can inquire for him at the Heliconias Rainforest Lodge or at Casitas Tenorio.
Bijagua Rainforest ToursOUTDOORS
(%8998-2954, 2466-8242; www.bijaguarainforesttours.com)
Marlon Brenes and his team have been working this patch of northern Costa Rica for more than a decade. Knowledgeable and efficient, they’re well connected to local sustainable tourism efforts and also offer wider-ranging trips to sights including Palo Verde and La Fortuna. Their guesthouse, Casa Natural View (US$85), is just down the hill from Casitas Tenorio.
Frog’s ParadiseWILDLIFE WATCHING
(h5:30pm-dark)
With a flashlight and a walking stick, you’ll accompany Miguel on a night walk around former cattle grazing land, now a wildlife wonderland. You’ll likely see some of the 20 regional frog species, and maybe owls, fruit-eating bats, sleeping birds, creeping insects and the things that eat them. Phosphorescent mushrooms too (you don’t have to take them to see them!). Located on the road to Cataratas Bijagua Lodge.
Heliconias Rainforest LodgeBIRDWATCHING, HIKING
(Hanging Bridges; %2466-8483; per person US$17; h8am-5pm)
Get a different perspective on the forest from this trail of hanging bridges. It’s a beautiful spot – rife with butterflies and birdlife – and you’re likely to have the trail to yourself. Located about 4km from the main road. At the time of research the bridges were closed due to inspection and safety reasons, with plans to reopen in 2018. One of the three bridges was wiped out by Hurricane Otto in 2016, so it’s lost a bit of its luster.
DON’T MISS
HOTTEST THERMAL POOLS
Costa Rica’s volcano-powered thermal pools and mud pots provide plenty of good, clean fun for beauty queens and would-be mud wrestlers.
Hot Springs Río Negro On the slopes of Volcán Rincón de la Vieja, with several pools in a jungle setting.
Río Perdido Thermal pools, hanging bridges and low-key luxury characterize this thermal canyon experience near Volcán Miravalles.
Borinquen Mountain Resort & Spa The pinnacle of indulgent dirt exists in the remote heights of Rincón de la Vieja. If mineral mud is not your thing, you can opt instead for a skin treatment of coconut, cappuccino or chocolate.
TTours
Chocolate Tree TourFOOD & DRINK
(%2470-8061, 8309-5826; www.treechocolate.com; 1½ hr tour US$15; h9am-5pm)
Gerardo Solorzano will guide you around his finca, which produces cacao and many other crops. But you want the chocolate, right? You’ll see the entire process – cutting, fermentation, drying, roasting, husking – and end on a happy note with a cup of hot or cold chocolate, courtesy of Gerardo’s partner Runia. Located 4km off Rte 6, after making the right turn just past Super Ale’s soda, 8km north of Bijagua.
4Sleeping
There’s a shortage of budget options, but little Bijagua has a pretty good range of places to stay. You’ll find them on the main road, Hwy 6, or nestled into the hills east or west of town.
Río Celeste BackpackersHOSTEL$
(%2466-8600; www.bijaguabackpackers.jimdo.com; Rte 6; campsite/dm/d US$8/15/35; pW)
The best budget option is this little house that has been turned into a hostel. There are two private rooms and one eight-bed dormitory; guests share two bathrooms, a kitchen and a small living area. There’s camping in the yard (on the porch when it rains) and a shuttle bus to Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio (US$12 per person).
oCasitas Tenorio B&BB&B$$
(%8439-9084, 8312-1248; www.casitastenorio.com; d incl breakfast US$80-130; pW) 
S
This sweet family-run farm has six spare but gracious casitas (cottages) surrounded by wildlife. Tico/Aussie couple Donald and Pip are committed to rural community tourism. The charm of this place is experiencing life on the farm – you can milk the cows on the morning dairy tour – and exploring the fruit tree-laden grounds. Your breakfast comes straight from the chickens!
It’s 2km southeast from Bijagua, on the road to Heliconias Rainforest Lodge.
Cataratas Bijagua LodgeLODGE$$
(%8937-4687; www.cataratasbijagua.com; d/tr/q incl breakfast US$70/85/100; pW) S
Owners Warner and Carla have turned their family’s dairy farm into a beautiful ecolodge, with six rustic cabins set on gorgeous jungle grounds with views of both Tenorio and Miravalles. The wildlife-filled grounds are ripe for exploring, with a river trail leading to a private waterfall. Located 2km west of Bijagua; look for the turnoff near the Casita del Maiz.
Warner and Carla don’t speak much English, so brush up on your Spanish.
Hotel CacaoHOTEL$$
(%2466-6142; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$60/75/95/115; paW)
Set in a yellow concrete building, this motel-style place has spacious rooms with new tiles and wooden beds plus a few decorative flourishes such as hanging masks and pottery. There’s plenty of deck seating with lovely views of Volcán Miravalles. On-site laundry, shared kitchen and nice hot showers. It’s located 300m northwest of the main highway. There’s a handy soda across the street.
oCeleste Mountain LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2278-6628; www.celestemountainlodge.com; s/d/tr/q incl all meals US$165/210/250/290; pW) S
Innovative and sustainable, this contemporary, open-air, hilltop lodge in the shadow of Tenorio is stunning. The 18 rooms are small but stylish, with wooden shutters that open onto immobilizing vistas. Winding through labyrinthine gardens, a trail is laid with geotextile (no more muddy shoes!), making for soundless hiking and prime birdwatching. The price includes meals at the excellent gourmet restaurant.
Hot water comes from solar power, and cooking gas is partially produced by kitchen waste. There’s even an ingenious ‘tropical hot bath’ heated by burning salvaged wood. The lodge is located about halfway down the new access road from Bijagua to Tenorio, and about 4km east of town.
Finca Mei TaiB&B$$$
(%8411-7801; www.finca-meitai.com; d/tr/q incl breakfast US$100/120/140; pWs)
Set on 40 hectares of forest and pastures 3km west of Bijagua, this family finca is crisscrossed by walking trails and dotted with farm animals. The two guest rooms have an abundance of natural light, local hardwoods and graceful details. Eric and Cecile built their place with the intention of living well and helping others to do the same. To get here, take the turnoff across from Pizzeria Barrigon. A third guest room was being added in 2017.
Sueño CelesteB&B$$$
(%2466-8221; www.sueno-celeste.com; Km 28, Hwy 6; d/tr/q US$114/144/174; pWs)
This cute B&B at the southern end of Bijagua has a collection of stylish bungalows with polished-concrete floors, frilly bed linens, beamed ceilings and molded-concrete rain showers, scattered around a garden plot with Volcán Tenorio views. The fastidious Belgian owners will make sure you’re oriented and informed during your stay.
Co-owner Dominique paints all the cool nature-themed murals.
Tenorio LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2466-8282; www.tenoriolodge.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$165/185/205; p
iW) S
On a lush hilltop 1km south of Bijagua, this lodge has 12 romantic and roomy bungalows featuring orthopedic beds, stone or wood floors and floor-to-ceiling windows with amazing views of Volcán Tenorio. On the 7-hectare property you’ll find a restaurant, two ponds, a heliconia garden and two hot tubs to luxuriate in after a long day of hiking.
The lodge’s sustainability efforts include using solar heating for hot water, using bio-degradable shampoos and soaps, watering the crops with waste water, and drying clothes naturally rather than with a dryer.
5Eating
Sprinkled along Hwy 6, Bijagua has the requisite sodas, a pizzeria and a few other places to eat in addition to hotel restaurants. It’s all pretty standard stuff, although you can experience the very beginnings of a farm-to-table movement at the Hummingbird Cafe.
Hummingbird CafeINTERNATIONAL$$
(%2466-8069, 8502-0326; www.fincaverdelodge.com/hummingbird-cafe; Finca Verde Lodge; mains US$8-12; h7am-9:30pm; 
v) S
This family restaurant is a surprising change of pace from the Tico fare in town. The emphasis is on fresh ingredients, many of which are grown right here on the family’s organic farm. Specialties include vegetarian red-chili enchiladas, fresh salads and tasty pizza pies. Come early (or stay late) and take a tour of the farm. There are four comfortable cabins (including breakfast US$70 to US$110) on the grounds.
8Getting There & Away
About 6km northwest of Cañas, a paved road branches off the Interamericana and heads north to Upala, passing between Volcán Miravalles to the west and Volcán Tenorio to the east. Smack dab in the middle of these mighty volcanoes sits Bijagua. It’s about 40km north of Cañas and 27km south of Upala. There is no gas here: fill your tank before you arrive.
Buses between San José and Upala stop in Bijagua (US$8, four daily). There are also local buses (US$2, 45 minutes) making the circuit from Cañas to Upala, stopping here. There are also frequent services to Bagaces (US$3, one hour), from where you can continue to the thermal baths of Volcán Miravalles.
A relatively new road bisecting the Tenorio National Park has made driving from La Fortuna a relatively straight shot (two to 2½ hours). A bus from there requires transferring in Cañas.
Yo Viajo (www.yoviajocr.com) is a handy app for determining bus schedules here and throughout the country.
Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio
They say that when God finished painting the sky blue, he washed his paintbrushes in the Río Celeste. The heavenly blue river and its waterfalls and lagoons – found in Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio (%2206-5369, 2466-7010; www.sinac.go.cr/ES/ac/acat/pnvt/Paginas/default.aspx; adult/child US$12/2; h8am-4pm, last entry 2pm) – are among the most spectacular natural phenomena in Costa Rica, which is probably why the park is known to locals simply as Río Celeste.
Established in 1976, this magical 184 sq km national park remains a blissfully pristine rainforest teeming with wildlife. Soaring 1916m above the cloud forest is the park’s namesake, Volcán Tenorio, which consists of three peaked craters: Montezuma, Tenorio I (the tallest) and Tenorio II.
Your first stop will be the Puesto El Pilón ranger station at the park entrance, which houses a small exhibit of photographs and dead animals. Pick up a free English or Spanish hiking map.
2Activities
A well-signed trail begins at the ranger station parking lot (park entrance) and winds 1.5km through the rainforest until you reach an intersection. Turn left and climb down a very steep but sturdy staircase to the Catarata de Río Celeste, a milky-blue waterfall that cascades 30m down the rocks into a fantastically aquamarine pool.
It’s 400m further to the Mirador, where you’ll have gorgeous views of Tenorio from the double-decker wooden platform. Further on is the technicolor Pozo Azul (Blue Lagoon). The trail loops around the lagoon for 400m until you arrive at the confluence of rivers known as Los Teñidores (The Stainers). Here two small rivers – one whitish blue and one brownish yellow – mix together to create the blueberry milk of Río Celeste.
Note that swimming is strictly prohibited everywhere along this trail. The nearby hot springs were closed after some tourists were burned in 2011. Hiking to the volcano crater is also strictly prohibited.
Allow three to four hours to complete the entire hike. It’s about a 7km round-trip, but parts of the trail are steep and rocky. The trail is wet and muddy year-round. Good hiking shoes or boots are a must; you can rent boots for US$6 at the park entrance. After your hike, you’ll find an area to wash your footwear near the trailhead.
4Sleeping & Eating
There are some sweet places to stay along the road to the national park, ranging from friendly budget cabinas to swanky mountain lodges. If you really want to get away from it all, there are a few lodges north of the park in the vicinity of the village of San Miguel.
La Carolina LodgeLODGE$$
(%2466-6393; www.lacarolinalodge.com; per person incl meals US$75-95; pW)
Flanked by a roaring river and tucked into the trees on the volcano slope, this isolated lodge is also a working cattle ranch. Cabins are rustic and romantic. The river is delicious for swimming, and a wood-fired hot tub is luxurious for soaking. Room rates include guided hikes and horseback rides in the surrounding countryside.
Amazing organic meals featuring poultry and meat from the farm are cooked over an outdoor wood-burning stove.
The lodge is about 1.3km west of the charming ranching hamlet of San Miguel; turn off the highway 5km north of Bijagua and follow the signs. It’s a rough road from here to the national park; don’t say we didn’t warn you!
Posada Cielo RotoCABIN$$
(%2466-6049; www.cielorotocostarica.com; per person incl 3 meals US$75)
Eight wood cabins perched on the northern slope of Volcán Tenorio offer traditional Tico living, where dinner is cooked over a wood stove and guests gather around the fireplace. Gregarious Mario goes out of his way to extend the warmest of welcomes. Rates include a guided hike to Río Celeste and a horseback riding outing on the property. Cash only.
To get here, take the turn to San Miguel that is signposted 5km north of Bijagua. The posada (guesthouse) is about 10km east on a sometimes brutal road.
Catarata Río Celeste HotelHOTEL$$
(%2201-0176, 8938-9927; www.cataratarioceleste.com; d/bungalow/ste US$66/84/121; pW)
Located about 1.5km from the park entrance, this family-run property is spread out over nice landscaped grounds. There are six simple tiled rooms that share a hammock-strung terrace, as well as five more luxurious bungalows with jacuzzis, outdoor showers and volcano views. Many different tours are on offer, as well as a pleasant open-air restaurant that attracts tour groups.
Cabinas PiuriHOTEL$$
(%8699-6858, 8706-0617; www.facebook.com/cabinaspiuri; s/d incl breakfast US$35/50, planet-arium r US$55, ste US$80; pW)
About 1km past the park entrance, this unusual property (Piuri is the indigenous name for the Río Celeste) is perched on a gorgeous slice beside the milky-blue Río Celeste. Accommodations vary from colorful cabinas with king-size beds to an egg-shaped ‘planetarium.’ Soak in an inviting stone dipping pool on the river banks or take this unique opportunity to swim in the magnificent river itself.
The spacious restaurant has expansive views.
Posada Río CelesteCABINA$$
(%8356-0285, for English 8978-2676; www.posadarioceleste.com; d incl breakfast US$70; p)
This homey property offers eight clean, rustic rooms (but with cable TV!) and hearty home-cooked meals, all on a family farm in a rural ranching community 1km northeast of the park entrance. Two talkative parrots inhabit the blooming gardens. Staff can organize hiking, horseback riding and swimming in and out of the park. Even if you’re not staying here, this is a perfect pit stop for lunch after hiking in the park. There’s no menu: Wuilbert and Vilma will serve up whatever they have cooking on their stove. Portions are huge and prices are reasonable.
Rio Celeste HideawayHOTEL$$$
(%2206-4000; www.riocelestehideaway.com; d & ste incl breakfast US$370-428; pW)
Five-star elegance, about 1.5km from the park gate. Huge, 90 sq m thatched casitas (cottages) with wooden floors, pastel paint jobs and antique furnishings are sprinkled among the lush landscaped grounds. Beds are covered with canopies and draped in 300-thread-count sheets. Even the bathrooms are luxurious here, with soaking tubs, outdoor showers and ‘his’ and ‘hers’ basin sinks.
Restaurant CastaCOSTA RICAN$
(%8445-7235; casados US$7-8; h7am-7pm)
You want a casado or hot chocolate to warm you up after a long walk in the park? Here’s the place, just 1km west (toward Bijagua) from the park entrance. The menu’s short, but who needs to think after a day’s worth of hiking?
8Getting There & Away
There’s no bus to the national park. The closest you can get is Bijagua, from where you can book a tour at almost any hotel, or take a taxi for US$50 round trip.
The main access road is a 30km road that connects Bijagua (Hwy 6) and Guatuso (Hwy 4), indicated by a small brown sign just north of the Agro Logos hardware store. This road has been graded in recent years (and may soon be paved). It passes the national park (and many lodgings) along the way. The entrance to the national park is about 9km from Bijagua and 21km from Guatuso – not a bad day trip from La Fortuna (about a two hour or so drive).
Five kilometers north of Bijagua is a gravel road to San Miguel. The only real reason to take this goat path is if you’re staying at La Carolina or Cielo Roto. Turning left at the San Miguel intersection will bring you to La Carolina Lodge (1.3km). It’s about 10km to Cielo Roto from the turnoff (2km past San Miguel village).
Cañas
If you’re cruising north on the Interamericana, Cañas is the first town of any size in Guanacaste, Costa Rica’s driest province. Sabanero (cowboy) culture is evident on the sweltering streets, where full-custom pickup trucks share the road with swaggering cowboys on horseback. It’s a dusty, typically Latin American town, where almost everyone struts slowly and businesses shut down for lunch. It’s all centered around the Parque Central, a large bull ring and the decidedly atypical Catholic church (cnr Calle Central & Av Central; hhours vary).
Although you’re better off basing yourself in livelier Liberia or the more scenic Bijagua, Cañas is a good place to organize rafting trips on the nearby Río Corobicí or for exploring Parque Nacional Palo Verde.
Most visitors can accomplish everything they want to do in Cañas in just a few hours, so there’s no real need to spend the night. But should you care to linger (or if you really can’t drive any longer), there are some decent accommodation options. The places in town are functional but not fabulous; by contrast, Hotel Hacienda La Pacífica (%2669-6050; www.pacificacr.com; d/apt incl breakfast US$90/125; paiWs), north of Cañas, is atmospheric indeed.
WORTH A TRIP
BIG CATS
Las Pumas (El Centro de Rescate Las Pumas; %2669-6044; www.centrorescatelaspumas.org; Corobicí; adult/child US$12/8; h8am-4pm) is a wild animal shelter started in the 1960s by the late Lilly Hagnauer, a Swiss environmentalist. It’s the largest shelter of its kind in Latin America, housing big cats including pumas, jaguars, ocelots, jaguarundis and margays, plus a few foxes, monkeys, peccaries, toucans and other birds that have been orphaned or injured. The ideal time to visit is between 1pm and 3pm, also known as feeding time. It’s located 4.5km north of Cañas on the Interamericana, near Corobicí.
The shelter is still operated by the Swiss family Hagnauer, who are local legends in Cañas. This is a labor of love. The shelter does not receive any government funding and relies on visitor admission and donations to survive. Volunteers are always welcomed, but you must make arrangements beforehand.
8Getting There & Away
All buses arrive and depart from Terminal Cañas (La Cañera; Calle Central btwn Avs 11 & 13) at the northern end of town. There are a few sodas (places serving counter lunches) and snack bars. You can store your bags at the desk.
BUSES FROM CAÑAS
| Destination | Company | Cost (US$) | Duration | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Liberia | Reina del Campo | 3 | 1hr | 8 daily, 6am-5:40pm |
| San José | Empresa La Cañera | 5 | 3½hr | 8 daily, 5:30am-5pm |
| Tilarán | Transporte Villana | 1 | 40min | 7 daily, 5am-3:30pm |
| Upala | Transportes Upala | 3 | 2hr | 3 daily (en route from San José) |
Volcán Miravalles Area
Volcán Miravalles (2028m) is the highest volcano in the Cordillera de Guanacaste, and although the main crater is dormant, the geothermal activity beneath the ground has led to its development as a hot springs destination. Miravalles isn’t a national park or refuge, but the volcano itself is afforded a modicum of protection by being within the Zona Protectora Miravalles.
North of Fortuna de Bagaces, government-run Proyecto Geotérmico Miravalles is an ambitious project that uses geothermal energy to produce electricity, primarily for export to Nicaragua and Panama. It also produces about 18% of Costa Rica’s electricity. A few bright steel tubes from the plant snake along the flanks of the volcano, adding an eerie, alien feel to the remote landscape.
2Activities
Volcán Miravalles and other volcanoes are critical sources of renewable energy for Costa Rica. But the geothermal energy visitors crave comes in liquid form: most of the area’s hot springs are north of the tiny village of La Fortuna de Bagaces (not to be confused with La Fortuna de Arenal).
Río PerdidoHOT SPRINGS, HIKING
(%2673-3600, toll free USA 1-888-326-5070; www.rioperdido.com; San Bernardo de Bagaces; day pass adult/child US$40/30, spa treatment US$55-95)
This fabulous facility, set amid an otherworldly volcanic landscape, is a wonderful place to soak in Miravalles’ soothing waters. The day pass allows access to miles of hiking trails, complete with waterfalls and panoramic views, plus the thermal river and hot springs, where temperatures range from 32°C (90°F) to 46°C (115°F).
Stay the night in eco-chic bungalows (single/double US$230/275). The bungalows are contemporary and cool, with polished-concrete floors, bold patterns, lots of windows and raised terraces facing the forest. There’s also swim-up bar, hanging bridges and glorious views all around.
Las HornillasHOT SPRINGS, HIKING
(%2100-1233, 8839-9769; www.hornillas.com; La Fortuna de Bagaces; tours incl lunch US$35-55; h9am-5pm)
On Miravalles’ southern slopes, Las Hornillas has a lunar landscape, with bubbling pools and fumaroles. Hike to see the volcanic action up close, then soak in four thermal pools and fly down a 250m slide. An additional tour involves a tractor ride followed by a walk across hanging bridges through the forest to reach a series of spectacular waterfalls. Spend the night in one of the rustic cabins (per person US$55) on the property, and you can soak in the pools by the light of the silvery moon.
El GuayacánHOT SPRINGS
(%2673-0349; www.termaleselguayacan.com; La Unión; adult/child US$10/8; h8am-10pm)
Just behind Thermo Manía (%2673-0233; www.thermomania.net; adult/child US$12/10; h8am-10pm) – the road sign is not terribly obvious) – this is a family finca that’s hissing and smoking with vents and mud pots. There are eight thermal pools and one cold pool with a waterslide. You can also take a guided tour of the fumaroles (stay on the trail!).
Yökö TermalesHOT SPRINGS
(%2673-0410; www.yokotermales.com; Miravalles; adult/child US$10/8; h7am-10pm)
Four hot springs and a larger pool with a small waterslide and waterfall, in an attractive meadow at the foot of Miravalles. The views are magnificent, but there’s little shade around the pools (though one has a true ‘wet’ bar, jacuzzi, and sauna). The 12 canary-tinted rooms (including breakfast US$40 to US$125) are a decent, but not magical, sleeping option.
Termales MiravallesHOT SPRINGS
(%2673-0606; www.facebook.com/termalesmiravalles; adult/child US$7/5; h7:30am-10pm)
Termales Miravalles has four pools and a super waterslide, all lying along a thermal stream. There’s more cement and less nature than some of the other hot springs in the area, but there is a pretty sweet volcano view. On Saturday nights, the place often hosts a dance party with a live band. Directly across the main road from Yökö.
TTours
Many tour companies offer organized trips to the various hot springs, sometimes with additional activities such as hiking, horseback riding and ziplining. Packages include transportation from Bahía Salinas, Liberia or the northern Península de Nicoya.
Canyon AdventureADVENTURE
(%2673-3600; www.rioperdido.com; San Bernardo de Bagaces; adult/child US$60/50)
You’ve done canopy tours, but have you tried a canyon tour? This new take on a tried-and-true adventure will have you zipping from platform to platform, most of which are mounted on rocks or canyon walls. The route is challenging and fun, with five ziplines plus a series of bridges, swings and steel cables. One of Rio Perdido many attractions. Canyon Adventure also gives full access to the thermal river, hot springs and hiking trails.
Miravalles Volcano Adventure CenterADVENTURE
(%8719-4276; www.facebook.com/Rainforestlink; Guayabo; canopy tour adult/child US$40/30, tours US$35-90, cabins US$30)
There’s something for everybody at this adventure center near the base of the volcano. The centerpiece of the complex is the canopy tour, which has 12 cables and hanging bridges through fields and forest. The place also has an on-site spa, horseback riding and other adventures, including an all-day expedition to the Miravalles crater.
8Getting There & Away
Volcán Miravalles is 27km northeast of Bagaces. Head north on a paved road through the communities of Salitral and Torno, where the road splits. Take the left-hand fork to reach Guayabo, with a few sodas and basic cabinas; to the right, you’ll find Fortuna de Bagaces, with easier access to the hot springs. The road reconnects north of the two towns and continues toward Upala.
There are hourly buses connecting Bagaces with Guayabo and Fortuna de Bagaces (US$1, 45 minutes). Make sure to take the bus that passes the termales (ask the driver); there are two routes and one bypasses them completely. There are also direct buses here from Liberia.
When returning, it’s easier to go to el cruce (the road crossing) 1km north from Thermo Manía, because all the buses back toward civilization stop there; only a few a day turn down the road that goes directly past the hot springs.
FARMSTAYS
Northwestern Costa Rica is farm country. From the cattle ranches of the lowlands to the coffee plantations on the mountain slopes, much of this land has been devoted to agriculture. As the economy changes, many farming families have discovered that they can supplement their income by inviting guests home. As such, the region offers many opportunities for farmstays, where travelers can experience authentic rural life and interact closely with hardworking farmers.
Parque Nacional Palo Verde
The 184 sq km Parque Nacional Palo Verde (%2206-5965, 2680-5965; adult/child US$12/2, guided tours US$48; h8am-4pm) is a wetland sanctuary in Costa Rica’s driest province. It lies on the northeastern bank of the mouth of the Río Tempisque and at the head of the Golfo de Nicoya. All the major rivers in the region drain into this ancient intersection of two basins, which creates a mosaic of habitats, including mangrove swamps, marshes, grassy savannas and evergreen forests. A number of low limestone hills provide lookouts over the park, and the park’s shallow, permanent lagoons are focal points for wildlife. The park derives its name from the abundant palo verdes (green trees), small shrubs that are green year-round. The park is contiguous in the north with the 73 sq km Refugio de Vida Silvestre Dr Rafael Lucas Rodríguez Caballero and the Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal.
The mosquitoes are legendary in this place. By all means, bring insect repellent!
2Activities
Hiking
You can explore the park’s well-maintained trails on your own or accompany an OTS (Organization for Tropical Studies) guide on his or her regular one-hour guided walk (adult/child US$30/20). Contact OTS ahead of time if you’d like the guided walk, which takes place between 8am and 1pm, depending on conditions. Pick up a map at the park entrance.
From the entrance, the first trailhead you’ll reach is for the Sendero Roco, which is a short steep climb up to a scenic viewpoint over the lagoon. On a clear day you can see the Río Tempisque to the Golfo de Nicoya. Next along, the Sendero Mapache traverses three distinct habitats in a short 700m. See if you can tell the difference between the deciduous lowland, limestone and evergreen forests.
Along the shore of the lagoon, the 900m Sendero El Pizote is prime for spotting waterbirds. And at the far end of the park, beyond the ranger station, you can hike 1400m along the Sendero La Cantera to reach a splendid lookout that takes in the whole area.
No matter which trail you choose, remember that it gets fiercely hot in the dry season – carry ample water, wear a sun hat and avoid hiking at midday.
Wildlife-Watching
Palo Verde has the greatest concentrations of waterfowl and shorebirds in Central America; over 300 bird species have been recorded here. Birdwatchers come to see the large flocks of herons (including rare black-crowned night herons), storks (including the endangered jabirú), spoonbills, egrets, ibises, grebes and ducks. Forest birds, including scarlet macaws, great curassows, keel-billed toucans and parrots, are also common. Frequently sighted mammals include deer, coatis, armadillos, monkeys and peccaries, as well as the largest population of jaguarundis in Costa Rica. There are also numerous reptiles in the wetlands including crocodiles that are reportedly up to 5m in length.
The dry season (December to March) is the best time to visit, as flocks of birds tend to congregate in the remaining lakes and marshes. Plus, the trees lose their leaves, allowing for clearer viewing. Mammals are occasionally seen around the watering holes. That said, the entire basin swelters during the dry season, so bring adequate sun protection. During the wet months, large portions of the area are flooded, and access may be limited. If you’d like some help spotting and identifying furred and feathered creatures, OTS offers guided bird walks and night tours.
TTours
To fully appreciate the size and topography of the park, it’s worth organizing a boat trip (per person US$57) down the Río Tempisque, a wide, brown, brackish river contained on either side by mangroves. Arrangements can be made through the OTS Hacienda Palo Verde Research Station.
Boat tours depart from the dock in Puerto Chamorro, on the main park road, 2km from the ranger station. If you arrive early enough, you may be able to show up and find a free spot on an outgoing boat. You can also hire a boatman from Puerto Humo, which is reachable by the ‘Rosaria’ bus from Nicoya. Tour operators on the Península de Nicoya and in La Fortuna bring tour groups to Palo Verde, but if you can get here, you’ll save plenty of money by arranging everything yourself.
El Viejo WetlandsWILDLIFE
(Hacienda el Viejo; %2296-0966; www.elviejowetlands.com; cultural tour US$25, boat tour US$71; h7am-3pm) S
Bordering Parque Nacional Palo Verde, this impressive facility is operated by a successful sugarcane family that has devoted 20 sq km to a wetlands refuge. In addition to hiking, biking and boat tours (some of which enter the national park), they also do a sugarcane demonstration; you’ll make ‘agua de sapo’ (toad water) from lime, ginger and sugarcane. Meals are served in the historic and atmospheric Casona (mansion). The main entrance is about 15km south of Filadelfia. Head southeast out of town on Calle 5 and follow the signs. El Viejo can also provide transportation from anywhere on the northern Península de Nicoya.
4Sleeping & Eating
OTS Hacienda Palo Verde Research StationLODGE$$
(%2524-0607; www.ots.ac.cr; r incl meals per adult/child US$90/38; pW)
Run by the Organization for Tropical Studies, this station conducts tropical research and teaches graduate-level classes. But it also has rustic cabins with bunk beds and fans, which are rented out to ‘natural history visitors.’ The research station is on a well-signed road 8km from the park entrance. Camping is not permitted at the research station but you may inquire at the park office to see if they will allow it.
8Getting There & Away
The main road to the entrance, usually passable by ordinary cars year-round, begins from a signed turnoff from the Interamericana, opposite Bagaces. The 28km gravel road has tiny brown signs that direct you when the road forks. Once inside the park, another 8km brings you to the limestone hill, Cerro Guayacán (and the OTS Hacienda Palo Verde Research Station), from where there are great views; 2km further are the Palo Verde park headquarters and ranger station. You can drive through a swampy maze of roads to the Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal without returning to the Interamericana, but be sure to ask rangers about road conditions.
Buses connecting Cañas and Liberia can drop you in Bagaces, opposite the turnoff to the park, but still a good distance away. If you’re staying at the Palo Verde Research Station, the staff may be able to pick you up, but be sure to make advance arrangements.
You can take the ‘Rosaria’ bus from Nicoya to Puerto Humo, and then bargain with local boatmen to take you to Puerto Chamorro, the dock where all the tours leave, just 2km from the ranger station.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
RESERVA BIOLÓGICA LOMAS DE BARBUDAL
Forming a cohesive unit with Palo Verde, the 26 sq km Reserva Biológica Lomas de Barbudal (%2659-9194, 2257-2239; adult/child US$12/2; h7am-4pm) is a tropical dry forest reserve that’s famous for its huge diversity of resident bees. If that doesn’t make you want to come here, maybe the troops of white-faced capuchin monkeys will be more appealing.
In any case, Lomas de Barbudal is an accessible option for off-the-beaten-track independent hiking. A small visitors center (Visitors Center; %2686-4967; h9am-4pm) has maps and other information. You can explore the reserve on four different hiking trails; Sendero La Catarata (waterfall trail) rewards with an amazing cascade that merits a dip.
The turnoff to Lomas de Barbudal from the Interamericana is 14km southeast of Liberia and 12km northwest of Bagaces. From here it’s 7km to the entrance of the reserve on a rough unpaved road. Some steep sections may require 4WD in the rainy season.
Liberia
POP 56,900
The sunny rural capital of Guanacaste has long served as a transportation hub to Nicaragua, as well as being the standard-bearer of Costa Rica’s sabanero (cowboy) culture. Today, tourism is fast becoming a significant contributor to the economy. With an expanding international airport, Liberia is a safer and more chilled-out Costa Rican gateway than San José.
Most of the historic buildings in the town center are in need of a paint job (some locals dream of it becoming a historic district like Nicaragua’s Granada), though the ‘White City’ is pleasant, with a good range of accommodations. Still, it’s largely a launch pad for exploring Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja and the beaches of the Península de Nicoya, rather than a destination in itself. The area may be transformed by Discovery Costa Rica, a billion-dollar, 890-hectare theme park due to be built between 2018 and 2020.
1Sights
The blocks around the intersection of Av Central and Calle Real contain several of Liberia’s oldest houses, many dating back about 150 years. Locals harbor a long-term dream to pedestrianize Calle Real (south of the park), the historic thoroughfare into and out of the city, to replicate places like nearby Grenada in Nicaragua.
Ponderosa Adventure ParkWILDLIFE RESERVE
(%2105-7181; www.ponderosaadventurepark.com; tour adult/child US$50/35, 3-tour package adult/child US$115/105; h8am-5pm)
Elephants, zebras, giraffes and other African animals are right at home in the dry Guanacaste heat, as you can see at this private wildlife reserve. The safari tour allows you to get up close and personal with the (sort of) wild animals. Kayaking, ziplining, horseback riding and ATVs are also on offer. The park is in El Salto, about 11km south of town on the Interamericana, halfway to Bagaces.
La AgoníaCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; La Iglesia de la Ermita de Nuestro Señor de la Agonía; cnr Av Central & Calle 9; hvariable)
With whitewashed walls and twin pillars flanking the front door, La Agonía typifies the Spanish colonial architecture that earned Liberia its ‘White City’ nickname. This is the city’s oldest church, built in 1825. There is supposedly an art and culture exhibit inside, but it’s difficult to say for sure, as the doors are usually locked tight. Check at the house next door to the church for opening hours; if you can’t go in, at least check out the massive yellow iguana statue in the park.
LAS FIESTAS DE GUANACASTE
Guanacastecos love their horses almost as much as they love their fiestas. And what better way to get the best of both worlds than with a tope (horse parade)? In addition to the tope, these traditional holiday fiestas are a mix of Western rodeo and country fair, complete with cattle auctions, food stalls, music, dancing, drinking and, of course, bull riding. (In Costa Rica the bulls are never killed, so watching the berserk helmetless, bareback bucking-bronco action is usually gore-free.) Even better than watching the bull riding is the aftermath, when the local drunks and young machos jump into the ring to act as volunteer rodeo clowns.
Though the bull riding usually draws the biggest crowds, the main event is the tope itself, where you can see the high-stepping gait of the sabanero’s (cowboy’s) horse; this demands endurance and skill from both horse and rider.
Topes are also a great place to catch the region’s traditional dance, known as the punto guanacasteco. The women wear long flowing skirts meant to resemble traditional handcrafted, hand-painted oxcart wheels. The old-fashioned courtship dance is frequently interrupted by young men, who shout rhyming verses to try to win over a love interest. The dance and accompanying music are fast paced, full of passion and fun to watch.
Topes usually occur on Costa Rican civic holidays, though you can bet on finding big parties during Semana Santa (the week before Easter), the week between Christmas and New Year, and on July 25, the anniversary of Guanacaste’s annexation.
4Sleeping
Liberia is at its busiest during the dry season – reservations are strongly recommended on weekends and over Christmas, Easter and Día de Guanacaste. During the wet season, most of the midrange and top-end hotels give discounts. In town, most of the lodgings are budget and midrange options, but you’ll find some high-end international chain hotels near the airport.
Hotel LiberiaGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2666-0161; www.hotelliberiacr.com; Calle Real btwn Avs Central & 2; dm/s/d incl breakfast from US$13/32/45; pW)
It’s hard to resist the glorious shady courtyard at this century-old guesthouse, one of Liberia’s best budget options. Appealing ‘casona’ rooms are in the old building, where high ceilings, tile floors and wooden furniture contribute to an old-fashioned ambience. Less atmospheric (and cheaper) ‘torre’ rooms and dorms are in the newer concrete building at the back of the courtyard.
Hospedaje DoderoHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2665-4326, 8729-7524; www.hospedajedodero.yolasite.com; Av 11 btwn Calles 12 & 14; dm US$11, s US$17-20, d US$25-30; aW)
This place is super clean, has super service and is close to the bus station. All rooms have shared bathrooms; some have air-con. There’s a communal outdoor kitchen overlooking a small yard filled with flowers and hung with hammocks. It’s nothing fancy, but it’s very friendly. Shawn, the owner, has an incredibly comprehensive bus schedule in a three-ring binder.
La Posada del TopeGUESTHOUSE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2666-3876; www.facebook.com/hotellaposadadeltope; Calle Real btwn Avs 2 & 4; d US$25; piW)
Rooms are in the ‘casa real’ (royal house) across the street from the wooden lobby. Set around an awesome garden and furnished with eclectic art and antiques, this place has a lot of personality. Rooms are basic and clean enough, and bathrooms are shared (mostly), but the price is right. The bilingual Tico owner, Denis, is a wealth of information. This is the official office for NicaBus in town, which may save you some hassle at the Liberia terminal.
Hotel JavyHOTEL$$
(%2666-9253; www.hoteljavy.com; cnr Av 19 & Calle 19; d incl breakfast US$50; paW)
Isabel is your hostess with the mostest. This charming lady goes out of her way to make sure her guests are happy, not least by preparing an enormous, delicious breakfast to send you off feeling satisfied. The rooms are light-filled and comfortable, with firm beds, incongruously formal furnishings and spotless new bathrooms. The location, about 2km northeast of Parque Central, and 200m north of the IPEC, is not so convenient, particularly without a car.
5Eating
Liberia has a good selection of restaurants, both in town and on the road to the airport. If you’ve been on the road for months and are dying for it, ‘modernized’ Liberia has some chain fast-food joints near the highway. If you’re taking the bus, pick up some snacks for the road at the market (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Av 7 btwn Calles 10 & 12; h6am-7pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun) next to Terminal Liberia.
Donde PipeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2665-4343; www.dondepipe.com; cnr Calle 8 & Av 5; mains US$7-11; h8am-6pm; W
c)
This little cafe is a local favorite, thanks to free wi-fi, strong coffee and scrumptious sweets and breakfasts. In addition to cafe fare, the menu features local specialties such as chifrijos (rice and pinto beans with fried pork, fresh tomato salsa and corn chips) and tamales, plus fresh fruit juices. Has a children’s menu. Friendly staff, air-con and a block from the bus station: need we say more?
Los ComalesCOSTA RICAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2665-0105; Calle Real btwn Avs 7 & 5; dishes US$4-8; h6:30am-2pm)
¡Poder Tica! This convivial and popular local spot is run by a women’s collective. Come for traditional Guanacaste fare such as arroz de mais (rice with chicken and corn). Lunchtime is crowded which means slow service. There’s a dozen fresh juices and batidos (fruit shakes made with milk or water) to wet your whistle.
oRegion 5COSTA RICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %4700-9523; cnr Av 25 de Julio & Calle 2; mains $8-22; hnoon-9pm)
‘Costa Rican by birth, Guanacasteco, thank god!’ boasts this new steakhouse, named for the province and set in the historic home of beloved Liberian doctor Enrique Briceño. Lunches feature Nicoyan treats including chorreadas (sweet corn pancakes) and tanelas (sweet empanadas). Meaty evening fare includes baby back ribs and New York steaks; tuna steak in seafood sauce is a wonderful surprise.
oMariajuanaCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2665-7217; www.facebook.com/mariajuanarestaurante; cnr Calle 3 & Av 1; mains US$7-17; h11:30am-11:30pm Tue-Sat, from 3pm Sun; Wvc)
It’s moved across town, but its dreamcatchers, African masks and cat-themed art are still all the rage. Sip a regional Guanaca beer (made with local honey for a sweet finish) while swinging under the giant mango tree, and snack on appetizers (US$7 to US$8) or substantial steak or seafood platters. Finish off a hot Guanacaste afternoon with a ‘heart-attack sundae’. On the site of the former Meson Liberiano.
Café LiberiaFUSION$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2665-1660; Calle Real btwn Avs 2 & 4; mains US$9-14; h9am-9pm Tue-Sat; W)
This beautifully restored colonial-era building has heavy wooden furniture and frescoed ceilings, creating a romantic ambience for enjoying rich coffee and gourmet fare. French chef Sebastian and his Tica wife Lijia have taken staple foods to new levels: ceviche is served with irresistible, warm fresh-baked tortilla chips. The courtyard hosts occasional live music and has a multilingual bookshelf.
Green HouseFUSION$$
(Casa Verde; %2665-5037; www.facebook.com/TheGreenHouseCR; Hwy 21; mains US$6-12; h11am-9pm; Wv)
When they say ‘green house’ they mean it – this is a glass building filled with plants. There are green-paneled windows and many veggie options on the menu. Come into the light-filled dining room for a delightful fusion of flavors, such as grilled chicken with mango salsa and excellent fish tacos. Located on the airport road, about 8km west of town.
JaujaINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2665-2061; www.facebook.com/jaujarestaurante; cnr Av 25 de Julio & Calle 10; mains US$10-15; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat; W
#)
This stylish indoor-outdoor bar-cafe (the name’s pronounced ‘How-ha’) on the main drag is unusual for its upscale ambience and classy cuisine. Service is also excellent. Look for wood-fired pizza, tender grass-fed steaks, and burgers on home-baked buns. It’s popular with the local professional set, as well as tourists and expats.
It thumps to an ’80s soundtrack, for better or worse.
Pizza ProntoPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2666-2098; cnr Av 4 & Calle 1; mains US$10-18; hnoon-3pm & 6-10pm)
This very cute old-world pizzeria, where the wood is stacked next to the smoking courtyard oven, keeps it romantic and simple – just pizza, pasta and salads. The pizzas are delish, ranging from the recommended vegetarian option to the not-so-recommended taco pizza. You can choose from a list of more than 30 pizzas or create your own.
Toro Negro SteakhouseSTEAK$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2666-2456; cnr Av Central & Calle 1; mains US$12-18; h11am-9:30pm Tue-Sun; Wc)
Located in a beautiful colonial-era building, this family-friendly restaurant has an extensive Italian-Tico menu specializing in meat dishes such as New York strip steak, filet mignon and burgers. The rustic interior is inviting, but you can’t beat the outdoor balcony for people-watching and enjoying the evening breeze.
For more economic but similar fare, the same owner runs the Taqueria de la Calle (Calle Real btwn Avs Central & 2; $3-7; h12:30pm-10:30pm Wed-Sun, from 2pm Tue; aW), opposite Hotel Liberia, as well as La Pastelera, next to Cafe Liberia. Many of the same chefs are employed across the three locales.
6Drinking & Nightlife
There is no shortage of watering holes from the main square on down to the Interamericana. It’s up to you to decide if you want to drink at the sports bar, the cocktails bar, the cowboy bar or the art cafe. What kind of mood are you in?
Palermo LoungeCOCKTAIL BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2240-3325; cnr Av Central & Calle 3; h4pm-midnight Mon-Thu, from 10am Fri-Sun)
This tropical garden, lush with greenery and waterfalls, is one of the city’s most pleasant places for a drink. There’s also sports and music videos on the big screen, but the volume is usually turned down so patrons can enjoy the tranquil atmosphere. The menu offers very tasty pub grub and Tico fare (shared appetizers US$10).
Guana’sSPORTS BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2665-3022; Calle 2 btwn Avs 25 de Julio & 1; h11am-2am)
Facing Parque Central, this open-air bar has cold beer, decent pizza and football on the big screen. The place picks up on weekends, when the party spills out into the courtyard and onto the sidewalk. Chuck back a cold Imperial and people watch to your heart’s content.
Morales HouseBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %2665-2490; cnr Av 1 & Calle 14; h6pm-2am)
A real Guanacaste sabanero hangout, this barnlike bar has bull heads on the walls, blaring ranchera music and American sports on TV. Bonus: thick, juicy steaks for hungry buckaroos.
8Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospital Dr Enrique Baltodano Briceño (%2666-0011, emergencies 2666-0318; Rte 918) Behind the stadium on the northeastern outskirts of town.
MONEY
Liberia probably has more banks per square meter than any other town in Costa Rica.
BAC San José (%2295-9797; Centro Comercial Santa Rosa, Rte 21; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Banco de Costa Rica (%2666-2582; cnr Calle Real & Av 1; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri)
Banco Nacional (%2666-0191; Av 25 de Julio btwn Calles 6 & 8; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat)
Citibank (cnr Interamericana & Av 25 de Julio; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 12:30pm Sat)
POST
Post Office (Correos de Costa Rica; www.correos.go.cr; cnr Av 3 & Calle 8; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, until noon Sat)
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Located 12km west of Liberia, Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós (LIR; www.liberiacostaricaairport.net) serves as the country’s second international airport, providing easy access to all those beautiful beaches without the hassle of San José. In January 2012 it unveiled its sleek and modern US$35 million terminal.
The majority of international flights go to the USA and Canada, though there are some regional flights on Copa Air (to Panama) and Taca (to Guatemala). Domestic flights mainly go to San José.
There’s a number of car-rental desks at the airport near the exit if you haven’t made a reservation in advance. Taxis from Liberia to the airport are about US$25, or you can catch a bus (US$1, 30 minutes, hourly) in front of the Mercado Municipal; it runs from 5:30am to 6:30pm, Monday through Friday only.
NatureAir (%Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós 2668-1106, reservations 2299-6000; www.natureair.com; h6am-5pm) Direct flights from Liberia to San José, Tamarindo and Nosara, and connections to other destinations through San José.
Sansa (%Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós 2668-1017, reservations 2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) Flies to San José, Tambor, Tamarindo and Costas Esmeraldas (Nicaragua) from Liberia.
BUS
Buses arrive and depart from Terminal Liberia (Av 7 btwn Calles 12 & 14) and Terminal Pulmitan (Av 5 btwn Calles 10 & 12). At the time of research, Pulmitan was in process of buying up some of the smaller rural lines.
Note that if you’re heading to Puntarenas it’s quicker to take the San José–bound bus and jump off when it reaches your destination.
BUSES FROM LIBERIA
| Destination (Company) | Cost (US$) | Duration | Terminal | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cañas (Reina del Campo) | 2 | 1½hr | Liberia | half-hourly, 5:30am-5:30pm |
| Curubandé | 2 | 40min | Liberia | 6:40am, noon, 5pm |
| La Cruz/Peñas Blancas (Arrieta) | 2.50 | 1½-2hr | Liberia | 5:30am, 8:30am, 9am, 11am |
| Nicoya, via Filadelfia and Santa Cruz (La Pampa) | 2.50 | 1½hr | Liberia | half-hourly, 4:30am-8:20pm |
| Playa Flamingo and Brasilito (La Pampa) | 2 | 1½hr | Liberia | 6am, 8am, 10am, 11am, 12:30pm, 5pm, 6pm |
| Playas del Coco (Pulmitan) | 1.50 | 1hr | Pulmitan | half-hourly, 5am-11am, plus 12:30pm, 2:30pm, 6:30pm |
| Playa Hermosa (La Pampa) | 2 | 1½hr | Liberia | 5 daily, 7:30am-5:30pm |
| Playa Tamarindo (La Pampa) | 2 | 2hr | Liberia | 7 daily, 3:50am-12:30pm; hourly, 2pm-6pm |
| Puntarenas (Reina del Campo) | 3 | 3hr | Liberia | 9 daily, 5am-3:30pm |
| San José (Pulmitan) | 8 | 4hr | Pulmitan | 14 daily, 3am-10pm |
CAR
Liberia lies on the Interamericana, 234km north of San José and 77km south of Peñas Blancas on the border with Nicaragua. Hwy 21, the main artery of the Península de Nicoya, begins in Liberia and heads southwest. A dirt road leads 25km from Barrio La Victoria to the Santa María entrance of Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja; the partially paved road to the Las Pailas entrance begins from the Interamericana, 5km north of Liberia.
It’s generally hard to find street signs here, and locals still give directions using nearby locales and distances (‘100 meters, then turn left at the pulperia’), rather than actual street names.
There are more than a dozen car-rental agencies in Liberia, most of which have desks at the airport. Most companies will drop off your car at your hotel upon request.
Adobe (%2667-0608, in USA 866-767-8651; www.adobecar.com; h8am-5pm) is one of the cheapest companies in Costa Rica. Drop-off point is next to Hotel Liberia.
Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja
Given its proximity to Liberia – really just a hop, a skip and a few bumps away – this 141 sq km national park (%2661-8139; h8am-3pm Tue-Sun) feels refreshingly uncrowded and remote. The name (which translates as ‘old lady’s nook’) comes from its steamy main attraction, the active Volcán Rincón de la Vieja (1895m). The park also covers several other peaks in the same volcanic range, including the highest, Volcán Santa María (1916m). Exhaling geothermal energy, the park bubbles with multihued fumaroles, tepid springs and steaming, flatulent mud pots, as well as a young and feisty volcancito (small volcano). All of these can be visited on foot via well-maintained (but often steep) trails. Note the Las Pailas sector is closed on Monday.
2Activities
Hiking
From the Santa María ranger station, there’s 12km of hiking trails which take in the hot springs. Since the 2012 eruptions, the trek to the summit of Rincón de la Vieja is no longer open to the public.
Catarata La CangrejaHIKING
A four-hour, 5.1km (each direction) hike leads to Catarata La Cangreja, where falls drop 50m from a cliff into a small swimmable lagoon. The trail winds through forest past massive strangler figs, then to open savanna spiked with yucca on the volcano’s flanks, where views stretch to the Palo Verde wetlands and the Pacific beyond.
Sendero Las PailasHIKING
A circular trail known as Sendero Las Pailas – about 3km in total – takes you east of Las Pailas ranger station, past boiling mud pools (las pailas), sulfurous fumaroles and a volcancito (small volcano). This is the most popular (and most crowded) section of the park, as it’s an easy but worthwhile trail with a lot to see. A plan to pave this trail has yet to come to fruition, but it is the easiest and flattest of all the park’s pathways.
Thermal Springs
There’s no better way to recover from a grueling hike than by soaking in thermal springs. Many of the springs are reported to have therapeutic properties, always a good thing if you’ve been hitting the guaro cacique (sugarcane liquor) a little too hard.
In the Sector Santa María, a trail leads 2.8km west through the ‘enchanted forest,’ past the lovely Catarata Bosque Encantado (Enchanted Forest Falls), to sulfurous hot springs. Don’t soak in them for more than about half an hour (some people suggest much less) without taking a dip in the nearby cold springs, 2km away, to cool off. If you want real-deal, volcano-created thermal pools, here they are – it doesn’t get more ‘natural’ than this.
On the fringes of the park, there are several private facilities that have thermal pools with varying temperatures: no hiking required. Many companies and hotels offer tours to these sites from Liberia.
Hot Springs Río NegroHOT SPRINGS
(%2690-2900; www.guachipelin.com; per person US$20; h9am-5pm)
Set in the dry forest along the Río Negro, this magical place is managed by the Hacienda Guachipelín. Ten natural, stone-crafted hot pools are accessed by a lovely wooded trail, with hanging bridges leading to pools on either side of the raging river. Pools range in temperature from 28°C (82°F) to 53°C (127°F).
About 1km from the Las Pailas ranger station, turn toward Rincon de la Vieja Lodge and the Santa María sector. The hot springs will be on your right.
Simbiosis SpaSPA
(%2666-8075; www.guachipelin.com; pools US$15, 50-min treatment US$60-75; h9am-5pm)
A short jaunt from the park entrance, this spa takes advantage of the volcanic activity happening right on the property. Guests can see the boiling mud pools that are the source of their mud bath; an on-site geyser occasionally puts on a show. Four pools (two warm, two cool) and a range of massage options.
FLORA & FAUNA OF RINCÓN DE LA VIEJA
The park was created in 1973 to protect a vital watershed that feeds 32 rivers and streams. Its relatively remote location means that wildlife, rare elsewhere, is out in force here, with the major volcanic crater making for a rather dramatic backdrop to the scene. Volcanic activity has occurred many times since the late 1960s; the most recent eruption of steam and ash was in 2012. At the moment, the volcano is gently active and does not present any danger – ask locally for the latest news, as volcanoes do act up. Note that the crater itself is off-limits, as the 2012 eruptions have made it unsafe.
Elevations in the park range from less than 600m to 1916m, meaning visitors pass through a variety of habitats as they ascend the volcanoes, though the majority of the trees in the park are typical of those found in dry tropical forests throughout Guanacaste. The park is home to the country’s highest density of Costa Rica’s national flower, the increasingly rare purple orchid (Cattleya skinneri), locally known as guaria morada.
TTours
Lodges in the area can arrange tours such as horseback riding, mountain biking, guided waterfall and hot-spring hikes, rappeling, rafting and tubing on the lesser-known Río Colorado and, everyone’s favorite cash burner, canopy tours. Tours are offered by Borinquen Mountain Resort, Buena Vista Lodge, Canyon de la Vieja Adventure Lodge and Hacienda Guachipelín. Transportation from Liberia may also be provided, if needed.
Canyon de la Vieja Adventure LodgeSPA, ADVENTURE TOUR
(%2665-5912; www.canondelavieja.com; spa US$15, tours US$40-50; h8am-4pm)
On the bank of the crystal-blue Río Colorado, this sprawling lodge operates a full-service spa, with cool and warm pools, mud baths, massage and other treatments. The river current is strong, but the swimming hole is glorious for cooling off on a hot day (unfortunately, there’s not much shade). The lodge also offers horseback riding, tubing, rafting and canopy tours.
The lodge is 8km north of Liberia. Accommodation (single/double including breakfast US$80/100) is also available.
4Sleeping & Eating
There is a rustic cafe near the park entrance to Las Pailas that will serve you a sandwich or sell you a bottle of water. It’s not much, so you’re better off coming prepared with a picnic and plenty of water. Otherwise, your eating options are mostly restricted to the hotels. There are a few sodas in Curubandé, if you want to change it up.
El Sol VerdeCAMPGROUND$
(%2665-5357; www.elsolverde.com; campsite US$10, tent houses US$29, d/q US$52/71; pW) S
The feisty German couple here offer three Spanish-tiled, wood-walled rooms. Alternatively, bed down in the camping area, where there are a few furnished tent houses, a shared outdoor kitchen, solar-heated showers and plenty of space to pitch your own tent. The mural-painted terrace is a lovely place to relax. Located in Curubandé village. You’ll find hiking, swimming and wildlife in the immediate vicinity.
Casa Rural Aroma de CampoHOTEL$$
(%2665-0008, reservations 7010-5776; www.aromadecampo.com; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$58/81/110/128, bungalow incl breakfast US$116; pWs)
Near the village of Curubandé, this serene, epiphyte-hung, hammock-strung oasis has six rooms with polished hardwood floors, open bathrooms, colorful wall art, mosquito nets and a classy rural sensibility. Scattered around the property, an additional six prefab bungalows have bold colors and glass walls for better immersion in the forested setting. Delicious meals are served family-style in the courtyard. Warning: the pet parrot is an early riser.
Buena Vista LodgeLODGE$$
(%2690-1414; www.buenavistalodgecr.com; d incl breakfast US$70-100; pWs) S
Part cattle ranch, part adventure lodge, this expansive place is set on 809 hectares in the park’s western sector. On the grounds are three waterfalls, thermal pools, a canopy tour, hanging bridges and a thrilling 400m mountain waterslide. Choose between rustic stained-wood rooms and more private log cabins with glorious views. This lodge caters to package tourists big time.
Accessible via the village of Cañas Dulces. The resort’s sustainable practices include composting, environmental education classes and using methane gas for cooking and to run the laundry’s dryers.
Rinconcito LodgeLODGE$$
(%2666-2764, 2200-0074; www.rinconcitolodge.com; San Jorge; lodge s/d US$34/47, standard s/d US$52/74, superior d US$78; pW)
Just 3km from the Santa María sector of the park, this affordable option has attractive, rustic cabins that are surrounded by some of the prettiest pastoral scenery imaginable. The cheaper rooms are tiny, but they are clean and fresh. The lodge also offers horseback riding and ziplining tours. Located in San Jorge on Rte 918, near El Tanque.
Rincón de la Vieja LodgeLODGE$$
(%2200-0238; s/d incl breakfast from US$60/70; pis) S
Closest to the Las Pailas entrance, this hacienda is on 400 hectares of protected land in breezy horse country. In addition to the 49 rustic rooms, there is a small pond, a family-style restaurant and a canopy tour. Staff members are utterly charming.
Rancho Curubandé LodgeLODGE$$
(%2665-0375; www.rancho-curubande.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast US$62/74/85; paW)
Set on a working finca (farm), this is a pleasant, family-run place. Leopauldina keeps 16 spotless and simple rooms with beamed ceilings and a wide common front porch lit by tasteful wrought-iron chandeliers. Located on the road to Las Pailas, about 600m from the Interamericana.
Borinquen Mountain Resort & SpaRESORT$$$
(%2690-1900; www.borinquenresort.com; d incl breakfast US$220-365; paWs)
The area’s most luxurious resort is located on the western flank of the park. It features nicely appointed bungalows with private decks and jaw-dropping mountain views. Hot springs, mud baths and natural saunas are surrounded by greenery. A treatment at the elegant Anáhuac Spa (9am to 6pm) – suspended over the steaming jungle – is the icing on this decadent mud pie.
The resort is accessible via the village of Cañas Dulces. It’s 15km past the village on the main road to the entrance, and then another 3km from the entrance to the resort.
All the expected adventure tours are on offer here.
Hacienda GuachipelínHOTEL$$$
(%2666-8075; www.guachipelin.com; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$84/102/132/152; paWs)
This appealing 19th-century working cattle ranch is set on 12 sq km of primary and secondary forest. The 54 rooms are spacious and comfortable with traditional wood furniture and wide, welcoming verandas. All rooms enjoy lovely views of the volcano and surrounding grounds. You’ll appreciate the welcome drink at check-in. It’s 10km from the park entrance. Be warned that the on-site ‘adventure center’ makes this place feel a little like a vacation factory, catering largely to package tourists who descend for organized horse tours, in-house canopy tours and guided hikes in the national park.
8Information
The two main entrances to the park each have their own ranger station, where you sign in, pay admission and get free maps. Most visitors enter through Las Pailas ranger station (%2666-5051; www.acguanacaste.ac.cr; adult/6-12yr/under 5yr US$15/5/free; h8am-4pm Tue-Sun, no entry after 3pm) on the western flank, where most of the trails begin. The Santa María ranger station (%2666-5051; www.acguanacaste.ac.cr; adult/6-12yr/under 5yr US$15/5/free; h7am-4pm, no entry after 3pm), to the east, is in the Hacienda Santa María, a 19th-century rancho that was reputedly once owned by US President Lyndon Johnson. This is your access point to the sulfurous springs.
8Getting There & Away
The Las Pailas sector is accessible via a good 20km road that begins at a signed turnoff from the Interamericana, 5km north of Liberia. It’s paved for the first part of the drive past Curubandé. If you’re not staying at the Hacienda Guachipelín, you’ll have to pay (US$1.50 per person) to drive on its private road, which takes you to the park entrance.
The Santa María ranger station, in the east, is accessible via a rougher gravel road beginning at Barrio La Victoria in Liberia. Head east on Av 11, go around the stadium and continue north on Rte 918 for about 20km to the park entrance.
While both roads are passable by regular cars throughout the dry season, a 4WD is required during the rainy season and is highly recommended at all other times. To travel between the two sectors you needn’t double back to Liberia: one kilometer from the Las Pailas park entrance is the turn toward Rincõn de la Vieja Lodge, Río Negro hot springs and the Sector Santa María.
There’s no public transportation to the park entrances, but a Transbasa Rte 523 bus travels from Liberia to Curubandé three times daily in each direction (US$2, 35 minutes, 6:40am, noon, 5pm). Any hotel in Liberia can arrange transport to the park for around US$20 per person. Otherwise, you can hire a 4WD taxi from Liberia for about US$40 to Las Pailas, or US$65 to Santa María, each way.
The road to Cañas Dulces and beyond, toward Buena Vista Lodge and Borinquen Mountain Resort & Spa, is well signed about 11.5km north of Liberia, where it intersects with the Interamericana. Note that there is no access to the park from this side, so you’ll have to go all the way back to the Interamericana and enter through Las Pailas.
CURUBANDA & THE VOLCANO
According to Costa Rican indigenous folk legend, a princess named Curubanda fell in love with the chief of a rival tribe, Mixcoac. When her father, Curubande (pay close attention to the names!) learned of the Romeo-and-Juliet-in-Costa-Rica relationship, he threw his proposed son-in-law into the volcano. Soon thereafter, Curubanda had a son. To allow him to be close to his father, she threw him into the volcano. The Greeks, apparently, don’t hold a monopoly on family tragedy.
For the rest of her life, sorrowful Curubanda lived in the shadow of the volcano, becoming a powerful curandero (witch). Learning the secrets of forest medicine, many locals sought her out for her curative powers, saying ‘I’m going to look for la vieja (the old lady).’ And so the volcano is known today.
Sector Santa Rosa
Established in 1971 as a national park, the Sector Santa Rosa (%2666-5051; www.acguanacaste.ac.cr; adult/child US$15/5, surfing or snorkeling surcharge US$12; h8am-4pm) is now a part of the much larger Area de Conservación Guanacaste (ACG). This sprawling area was established to protect the largest remaining stand of tropical dry forest in Central America. With its primordial acacia thorn trees and tall jaragua grass, this rare landscape resembles the African savanna, though closer inspection reveals more American species of plants, including cacti and bromeliads.
Aside from the startlingly dry landscape, Santa Rosa has some legendary surf breaks, important nesting beaches for several species of sea turtle, and deep historical gravitas. Difficult access means that most of the Santa Rosa sector is fairly empty, though it can get reasonably busy on weekends in the dry season, when Ticos flock to the park in search of their often hard-to-find history.
1Sights
Santa Rosa was the site of game-changing battles from three different eras, ranking it among the country’s most significant historical sites. This history is commemorated with a museum and a monument. Santa Rosa also contains an important nesting site for olive ridley turtles and famous surf breaks.
Monument de los HeroesVIEWPOINT, MONUMENT
(incl in park admission)
Climb up the steep staircase behind La Casona to reach a lookout point with a stunning view of three volcanoes. The monument itself was built to honor the heroes of the two important battles that took place in this vicinity – the defeat of William Walker’s filibusteros in 1856 and the repelling of a separate Nicaraguan invasion in 1919.
Playa NanciteBEACH
Playa Nancite is a critical nesting site for olive ridley turtles. This species is known for its arribada (mass arrival), when hundreds (or thousands) of nesting turtles arrive at once to deposit their eggs on the beach. This phenomenon occurs about once a month (usually during a new moon) between August and December. Nancite is a restricted area; no tourist visits were allowed at the time of research.
La CasonaMUSEUM, HISTORIC BUILDING
(%2666-5051; www.acguanacaste.ac.cr/1997/ecodesarrollo/ecoturismo/museosantarosaing.html; incl in park admission; h8-11:30am & 1-4pm)
La Casona is the main edifice of the old Hacienda Santa Rosa. The battle of 1856 was fought around this building. There are wonderful displays detailing (in English and Spanish) the old gold-rush route, William Walker’s evil imperial plans and the 14-minute battle breakdown. There are also exhibits on the region’s natural history. La Casona is located near the park headquarters (both are about 7km from the park entrance).
The original building was burned down in 2001 by poachers who were involved in another war, this one with park rangers. The rebuilt building has smoke alarms. Two hiking trails leave from behind the museum.
WORTH A TRIP
SECTOR MURCIÉLAGO
Encompassing the wild northern coastline of the Península Santa Elena, Sector Murciélago (Bat Sector) is where you’ll find the isolated white-sand beach of Playa Blanca and the trailhead for the Poza el General watering hole, which attracts birds and animals year-round.
Sector Murciélago is not accessible from the Santa Rosa sector: to get to the northern Sector Murciélago, you’ll need to turn off the Interamericana near the police checkpoint that is 10km north of Santa Rosa. After 8km, bear left at the village of Cuajiniquíl. Continue on the gravel road for another 9km, passing such historic sights as the former hacienda of the late Nicaraguan dictator Anastasio Somoza (it’s currently a training ground for the Costa Rican police) and the airstrip that was used by Lieutenant Colonel Oliver North to ‘secretly’ smuggle goods to the Nicaraguan Contras in the 1980s. Continue straight until you cross a river, then hang a right and keep going straight over two more rivers until you reach the village of Murciélago and the park entrance.
Continue on a dirt road to the remote bays and beaches of El Hachal (5km), Bahía Santa Elena (8km) and Bahía Playa Blanca (17km). A 4WD is a must, and even then the road may be impassable in the wet season. Also, signage is nonexistent. Have fun!
The sector’s Ollie’s Point, named in jest after Oliver North, is one of the country’s best surf breaks, and can reached by boat from Tamarindo.
2Activities
Hiking
Several hiking trails originate near the park headquarters (7km from the park entrance), including a gentle hike to the Mirador Valle Naranjo, with spectacular views of Playa Naranjo. From the southern end of Playa Naranjo there are two hiking trails: Sendero Carbonal is a 5km trail that swings inland along the mangroves and past Laguna El Limbo, where the crocs hang out; Sendero Aceituno parallels Playa Naranjo for 13km and terminates near the estuary across from Witch’s Rock.
The main road is lined with short trails to small waterfalls and other photogenic natural wonders.
Surfing
The majority of travelers are here for one reason only: the chance to surf the near-perfect, world-class beach break at Playa Naranjo, Witch’s Rock (Roca Bruja). This break is famous for its fast, hollow 3m rights. There are also fun lefts when it isn’t pumping. Near Playa Portrero Grande, you’ll find the best right in all of Costa Rica, the famous surf break Ollie’s Point. It offers a nice, long ride, especially with a southern swell. The breaks can get busy in the dry season, but in the wet months from July through December you’ll often have the beach to yourself.
oOllie’s PointSURFING
Surfers make pilgrimages to this isolated beach, near Playa Portrero Grande, to find the best right in all of Costa Rica. This famous surf break offers a nice, long ride, especially with a southern swell. The bottom here is a mix of sand and rocks, and the year-round offshore is perfect for tight turns and slow closes. Ollie’s Point is only accessible by boat from Playas del Coco or Tamarindo. Or you can do as Patrick and Wingnut did in Endless Summer II and crash-land your chartered plane on the beach (ahem, not actually recommended). Shortboarding is preferred.
Playa NaranjoSURFING
(surfing surcharge US$12)
A spectacular beach in the southernmost part of the Santa Rosa sector, Playa Naranjo attracts wave riders who come to surf the legendary beach break at Witch’s Rock (Roca Bruja), famous for its 3m curls (not recommended for beginners). Be careful of rocks near the river mouth and crocodiles near the estuary, a rich feeding ground during tide changes.
The beach is stunning, with a sweet, rounded boulder-strewn point to the north and shark-fin headlands to the south. Even further south, Nicoya and Papagayo peninsular silhouettes reach out in a dramatic attempt to outdo each other.
Playa Naranjo is 18km from the park entrance and 11km from the Santa Rosa research station. The road from the station to the beach is notoriously bad; it’s impassable except in the driest months, and even then requires a 4WD. Call ahead regarding road conditions. There’s a campground with pit toilets but no potable water, so be sure to bring your own.
Wildlife-Watching
The wildlife in Santa Rosa is both varied and prolific, especially during the dry season, when trees lose their leaves and animals congregate around the remaining water sources. More than 250 bird species have been recorded here, including the raucous white-throated magpie jay, unmistakable with its long crest of manically curled feathers. The forests contain parrots and parakeets, trogons and tanagers; as you head down to the coast you’ll be rewarded by sightings of various coastal birds.
Dozens of bat species have been identified in Santa Rosa. Other mammals you’ll have a reasonable chance of seeing include deer, coatis, peccaries, armadillos, coyotes, raccoons, three kinds of monkeys and a variety of other species – about 115 in all. There are also many thousands of insect species, including about 4000 moths and butterflies (bring insect repellent).
Reptiles include lizards, iguanas, snakes, crocodiles and four species of sea turtle. The olive ridley sea turtle is the most numerous, and during the July to December nesting season tens of thousands of turtles make their nests on Santa Rosa’s beaches, especially Playa Nancite. From August to December, arribada (mass arrival) takes place about once a month and lasts for four days. During September and October especially, it’s sometimes possible to see as many as 8000 of these 40kg turtles on the beach at the same time. Playa Nancite is strictly protected and entry is restricted.
SANTA ROSA IN HISTORY
This stretch of coast is famous among Ticos as a national stronghold. Costa Rica has been invaded three times, and the enemy has always surrendered in Santa Rosa.
The best known of these incidents is the Battle of Santa Rosa, which took place on March 20, 1856, when Costa Rica was invaded by the soon-to-be-self-declared president of Nicaragua, an uppity American named William Walker. Walker was the head of a group of foreign pirates and adventurers known as the ‘Filibusters’ that had already seized Baja and southwest Nicaragua and were attempting to gain control over all of Central America. In a brilliant display of military prowess, Costa Rican president Juan Rafael Mora Porras managed to assemble a ragtag group of fighters and surround Walker’s army in the main building of the old Hacienda Santa Rosa, known as La Casona. The battle was over in just 14 minutes, and Walker was forever driven from Costa Rican soil.
Santa Rosa was also the site of battles between Costa Rican troops and invading forces from Nicaragua in the 20th century. The first – in 1919 – was a somewhat honorable attempt to overthrow the Costa Rican dictator General Federico Tinoco. Then, in 1955, Nicaraguan dictator Anastasio Somoza led a failed coup d’état. Today you can still see Somoza’s abandoned tank, which lies in a ditch beside the road just beyond the entrance to the park.
The area’s military history didn’t end with Somoza. In the 1980s, US Marine lieutenant-colonel Oliver North illegally sold weapons to Iran and used the profits to fund the Nicaraguan Contras during the Sandinistas-Contra war. The troops’ staging area was just north of Santa Rosa at Playa Potrero Grande (near the famous surf break now known as Ollie’s Point).
4Sleeping
The Santa Rosa research station (Centro de Investigación del Bosque Tropical Seco; %2666-5051; www.acguanacaste.ac.cr/biodesarrollo/centro-de-investigacion-y-estaciones-biologicas/centro-de-investigacion-del-bosque-tropical-seco; dm US$15) is usually occupied by visiting researchers. There’s a shady developed campground (per person US$19) nearby, with picnic benches, grills, flushing toilets and cold-water showers. Playa Naranjo also has pit toilets and showers but no potable water – bring your own, and don’t expect complete solitude: everyone shares one sandy flat basin, only moderately sheltered from gusty winds by thin trees. Bring extra water, just in case.
Santa Elena LodgeLODGE$$
(%2679-1038; www.santaelenalodge.com; Cuajiniquíl; s/d US$55/85; paW)
Retired fisherman Manuel offers a fine deal in the quaint village of Cuajiniquíl (Kwah-hee-nee-kil). The eight-room house is convenient to Santa Rosa and Murciélago parks and nearby beaches. The lovely cedar woods used to remodel the old home give it a solid feel, while details such as the book exchange make you feel right at home.
8Getting There & Away
Access to the Sector Santa Rosa park entrance is on the western side of the Interamericana, 35km north of Liberia and 45km south of the Nicaragua border. The well-signed main park entrance can be reached by public transportation: take any bus between Liberia and the Nicaraguan border and ask the driver to let you off at the park entrance. Rangers can help you catch a return bus. You can also arrange private transportation from the hotels in Liberia for about US$20 to US$30 per person round trip.
From the entrance it’s another 7km to park headquarters, where you’ll also find the museum and the campgrounds. This office administers the Area de Conservación Guanacaste (ACG).
From this complex, a very rough track leads down to Playa Naranjo, 11km away. Even during the dry season this road is only passable with a high-clearance 4WD, and you must sign an eerie waiver at the park entrance stating that you willingly assume all liability for driving here. The park also requires that you be completely self-sufficient should you choose to undertake the trip, which means bringing all your own water and knowing how to do your own car repairs. During the rainy months (May to November) the road is open to hikers and horses but closed to all vehicles. If you want to surf here, it’s infinitely easier to gain access to the beach by hiring a boat from Playas del Coco or Tamarindo further south.
F