Central Peninsula
Nicoya
POP 16,100
A hub between the beaches and ranches, the big cities and pueblitos, Nicoya (23km south of Santa Cruz) offers a blast of Tico time. Truckers, road-trippers and locals converge around a grid, packed with commerce and crowned with a gorgeous iglesia (church) that makes the leafy Parque Central worth a loiter. That said, there’s no reason to linger longer than you need to. Nicoya is not fabulous. Just real.
One theory has it that Nicoya was named after an indigenous Chorotega chief, Nicoa, who welcomed Spanish conquistador Gil González de Ávila in 1523 (a gesture he regretted). A second theory is that it derives from the Nahuatl words necoc iāuh, meaning ‘on both sides is water(s),’ describing the town’s location between two rivers. Regardless, following Avila’s arrival, the Chorotega were wiped out by the colonists, though many Nicoyans still proudly claim their indigenous heritage.
THE NICOYA DIET
Minnesota-born author Dan Buettner has garnered attention in recent years with his study of the earth’s ‘blue zones’: areas where people tend to live longer and healthier lives than anywhere else. He’s written three books on the subject, including The Blue Zones Solution: Eating and Living Like the World’s Healthiest People (2015). Among these long-lived groups are the residents of Costa Rica’s Nicoya peninsula. Buettner has broken the Blue Zone lifestyle into nine key components, diet only comprising a part of it. Also crucial to longevity, he claims, are exercise, faith, community and friendship.
But the diet is significant, and in the traditional Nicoyan intake, which includes yams, squash, bananas and beans, carbohydrates may make up as much as 68% of a Nicoyan’s daily calories. Buettner points out that the ‘three sisters’ of traditional Central American agriculture – beans, corn and squash – are alive and well in Tico cooking today. Factor in that Nicoyans, before preparing their customary tortillas, soak their corn kernels in lime, extracting more calcium and amino acids from the corn – and that means the staple morning platter, the gallo pinto of rice, beans, cheese, guacamole and tortilla (sometimes with egg) is an amazingly well-rounded meal.
Among the top ‘longevity foods’ of Nicoya, according to Buettner, are the maize nixtamal (cornmeal soaked in lime), ayote (squash), papaya, yams, black beans, bananas and pejivalle (peach palms, pronounced ‘pay-hee-vall-yay’). You can find freshly roasted pejivalle along many roadside stands – Costa Ricans like to eat them salted or with a dollop of mayonnaise. As a genetic blueprint, Nicoyans also have a strong dose of indigenous Chorotega blood, mixed with that of freed African slaves and Spaniards, and get a high dose of Vitamin D on this torrid, sunny peninsula, the waters of which have the highest calcium content in the country.
Nicoya: live long and prosper.
4Sleeping & Eating
Mundiplaza HotelHOTEL$
(
%2685-3535; Calle 3; s/d US$30/40; 
a
W)
Located right in the center of Nicoya, this is a perfectly pleasant place to spend the night. With colorful paint jobs (a few could use some touching up) and tile bathrooms, it’s relatively clean and well maintained. The shared balcony has striking views to the Nicoya hills, though the road noise can be excessive.
Hotel Curime ResortHOTEL$
(%2685-5238; d from US$40; 
paW
s)
This unexpected nature resort is a surprise in gritty Nicoya, though there’s little reason to overnight here. The lodgings are in run-down but pleasant bungalows, scattered about 3.5 acres of unkempt grounds. The place has an Olympic-sized pool and other underwhelming sporting facilities. Located about 1km southeast of Nicoya proper, just off Ruta 150.
Cafe DanielaSODA$
(%2686-6148; www.facebook.com/cafedaniela; Calle 3; mains US$6-10; 
h7am-9pm Mon-Sat; 
v)
A popular soda (cheap lunch counter) serving appetizing comida típica (typical local food) such as gallo pinto (stir-fry of rice and beans) in the morning, and fish, beef, chicken and veggie casados (set meals) later on. All served in bright tiled environs.
8Information
Banco de Costa Rica (Calle Central; h8:30am-3pm Mon-Fri)
Banco Popular (Calle 3; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:15-11:30am Sat) Also has a 24-hour ATM at Hospital La Anexión.
Hospital La Anexión (%2685-8400; h24hr) The peninsula’s main hospital is on the north side of Nicoya.
8Getting There & Away
Most buses arrive at and depart from the bus terminal (Calle 5) southeast of Parque Central.
BUSES FROM NICOYA
| Destination | Company | Cost (US$) | Duration | Departures |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Liberia | Transportes La Pampa | 2.60 | 2hr | every 30-60min, 7am-8:30pm |
| Playa Nosara | Empresa Traroc | 3 | 2hr | 4:45am, 10am, 12:30pm, 3:30pm & 5:30pm Mon-Sat. No early bus Sun |
| Sámara & Playa Carrillo | Empresa Traroc | 3.60 | 1½hr | 10 daily, 6am-8pm |
| San José | Empresa Alfaro | 7.50 | 5hr | 5 daily |
Parque Nacional Barra Honda
Parque Nacional Barra Honda is situated about halfway between Nicoya and the mouth of the Río Tempisque. The main attraction of this inland park is a massive underground system of caverns composed of soft limestone, carved by rainfall and erosion over a period of about 70 million years. Speleologists have discovered more than 40 caverns, some reaching as far as 200m deep, though to date only 19 have been fully explored. There have also been discoveries of pre-Columbian remains dating to 300 BC.
In addition to the caverns, there’s a plethora of wildlife around. More than 80 bird species have been sighted, as well as large bat populations, anteaters and armadillos.
1Sights
Parque Nacional Barra Honda CavernsCAVE
(%2659-1551; adult/child US$12/2, guided tour incl park admission US$29; htrails 8am-4pm, caverns to 1pm)
This 23-sq-km national park protects a system of some 40 caverns. The only cave with regular public access is the 41m-deep La Terciopelo, which has incredible speleothems (calcite figures that rise and fall in the cave’s interior). It’s quite the underground art museum. Stalagmites, stalactites and a host of beautiful formations have evocative names such as fried eggs, organ, soda straws, flowers and shark’s teeth. Call the ranger station one day in advance to arrange the four-hour guided tour.
2Activities
While wildlife-watching underground in the park’s caverns, you’ll have the chance to see such fun-loving creatures as bats, albino salamanders, blind fish and a variety of squiggly invertebrates. On the surface, howler and white-faced monkeys, armadillos, pizotes (coatis), kinkajous and white-tailed deer are regularly spotted, as are striped hog-nosed skunks and anteaters.
The Barra Honda hills have a few well-marked hiking trails through deciduous, dry tropical forest. Before or after visiting the cave, you can hike 3.5km to the top of Cerro Barra Honda, which has a mirador (lookout point) with a view of Río Tempisque and Golfo de Nicoya. You won’t need a guide to hike the trails.
8Getting There & Away
To reach Barra Honda by public transportation, take a bus from Nicoya to Santa Ana (US$3.50, twice daily except Sunday), which will get you within striking distance (about 1km away). Alternatively, take a taxi from Nicoya for about US$20 round trip. You can arrange for your driver to pick you up at a specified time.
If you have your own vehicle, take the peninsular highway south out of Nicoya toward Mansión and make a left on the access road leading to Puente La Amistad. From here, continue another 1.5km and make a left on the signed road to Barra Honda. The dirt road will take you to the village of Barra Honda then wind to the left for another 6km, passing Santa Ana, before ending at the national-park gate. The road is clearly marked, and there are several signs along the way indicating the direction of the park. After the village of Barra Honda, the road is unpaved, but in good condition.
If you are coming to the park from Puente La Amistad, you will see the access road to Barra Honda signed about 16km after leaving the bridge.
Nosara Area
Nosara is a cocktail of international surf culture, stunning backroad topography, expat mayhem and yoga bliss. Here, three stunning beaches are stitched together by a network of swerving, rutted roads that meander over coastal hills and kiss the coast just west of the small village of Nosara. Inland are remnant pockets of luxuriant vegetation that attract birds and other wildlife. The area has seen little logging, partly because of the nearby wildlife refuge, but a newly paved access road (in process at the time of research) will likely lead to more development and visitors.
The area is spread out, so your own wheels are a plus. Eight kilometers inland, Nosara is where you’ll find gas, as well as the airport. Most accommodations and restaurants are in Playa Pelada and Playa Guiones. Many unidentified little roads make it hard to navigate: for a handy map visit the website of Nosara Travel.
1Sights
Playa GarzaBEACH
From the south, the first beach you’ll hit is Playa Garza, still a sleepy Tico fishing village with an arc of pale brown sand, and headlands on either side of the rippling bay. Fishing boats bob offshore and there’s a point break to the north side. There are a few cabinas and sodas here, lots of sand space, and precious few tourists.
Playa GuionesBEACH
Playa Guiones is quite simply a sip of raw nectar: a wide, generous arc of marbled sand, with a few pebbles and shells mixed in, excellent beach breaks and plenty of space. It’s an easygoing place for surfers, surf dogs and surf babies – you might just see unattended strollers lodged in the wet sand at low tide. This is Nosara’s most developed beach.
Playa PeladaBEACH
North of Guiones, Playa Pelada is rough and rugged, and less endowed with surfers and luxury (perhaps a luxury in itself). Things feel both spookier and more profound in Pelada. This beach lacks surf, so it’s wonderful for children. It also has sheared-away boulders tumbling into a foaming sea, two alluring beachside restaurants and a fishing-village intimacy that Guiones lacks.
Refuge for WildlifeANIMAL SANCTUARY
(%2682-5049, 8708-2601; www.refugeforwildlife.com; Nosara; per person US$50; hby appointment)
Make an appointment to visit this animal rescue center. Brenda Bombard is an incurable animal lover who has devoted two decades to caring for injured and abandoned howler monkeys. Two-hour tours are highly educational, sharing information about the habits of howler monkeys and the center’s efforts to rescue and release them (with an impressive 85% success rate). Volunteer opportunities available. As the refuge isn’t open to the public without an appointment, they will contact you with directions once your appointment is made.
Sibu SanctuaryZOO
(%8413-8889; www.sibusanctuary.org; US$65; htours 10:30am)
Reservations are absolutely required to visit this wildlife sanctuary, set on 50 glorious acres of jungle and garden. The sanctuary is dedicated to rescuing, rehabilitating and eventually releasing howler monkeys who have been injured or abandoned. The educational visits include some time with the primates, as well as a guided tour of the grounds. The fee supports the good work of this private center.
Sibu Sanctuary is located in the village of Santa María, due west of Nosara village.
Reserva Biológica NosaraNATURE RESERVE
(%2682-0035; www.lagartalodge.com; US$10, private tour US$25; h8am-4pm, guided tours 6:30am & 3pm)
The private 35-hectare reserve behind Lagarta Lodge has trails leading through a mangrove wetland down to the river and beach. Stop in the Lagarta lobby to pick up a map of a two-hour self-guided tour. This is a great spot for birding, reptile-spotting and other wildlife-watching. Boat tours of the mangroves are also available. Access is free to Lagarta guests.
2Activities
Playa PoniesHORSEBACK RIDING
(%2682-5096; www.playaponies.org; Playa Pelada; 1hr/2hr/half-day tours US$40/55/100; 
c)
Carrie and Neno want to take you riding on jungly trails and windswept beaches, with special routes designed for families with children. From the ‘five corners’ of Pelada, head north 500m on Hwy 160, than turn left. Alternatively, they can meet you at the Mobil station.
Tica MassageSPA
(%2682-0096; www.ticamassage.com; Playa Guiones; massages US$40-100; h9am-5pm)
After a hard day of surfing, treat yourself to a spa treatment at Tica Massage, in the Heart of Guiones Wellness Center. Services cater especially to surfers; or opt for a foot massage, a face massage or an invigorating ‘Sea Glow’ massage.
Miss SkyTOURS
(%2682-0969; www.missskycanopytour.com; Nosara; adult/child 5-12yr US$75/50; htours 8am & 1:30pm)
Miss Sky’s ziplines run from mountainside to mountainside above a pristine private reserve. If you can keep your eyes open, you’ll be rewarded with glorious views of forest, sea and sky.
Surfing
Safari SurfSURFING
(%2682-0113, from US or Canada 866-433-3355; www.safarisurfschool.com; Olas Verdes Hotel, Playa Guiones; 1-week packages from US$1580; h7am-6pm)
This all-inclusive surf school offers one-week packages, complete with lodging, meals, surf lessons and gear, as well as some extra activities (depending on the package). Different packages cater to budget travelers and women, in addition to the ‘signature’ Tortuga package. The quality of surf instruction is universally praised.
Coconut Harry’sSURFING
(%2682-0574; www.coconutharrys.com; Playa Guiones; board rental per day US$15-20, lessons adult/child US$55/45; h8am-5pm)
At the main intersection in Guiones, this popular surf shop offers top-notch private lessons, as well as board rental and stand-up paddleboard rental. Conveniently, there’s a second location near the main break at Playa Guiones.
Juan Surfo’s Surf ShopSURFING
(%2682-1081; www.surfocostarica.com; Playa Guiones; board rental per day US$15-20, lessons per hour US$45; h8am-6pm)
Juan Surfo is a highly recommended Tico surf teacher who gives lessons at Playa Guiones. His shop offers the regular rentals, transportation and surf tours, as well as some rooms for rental at the nearby Surf Lodge. Located on the northern loop road, 200m from the beach.
Yoga
Pilates NosaraYOGA
(%8663-7354; www.pilatesnosara.com; Playa Guiones; per person from US$15; h8am-2pm)
Now located in a beautiful studio at Bodhi Tree, this school offers Pilates mat and reformer classes (six daily during the high season), as well as teacher training and retreats. Turn off from the first Guiones access road.
Nosara WellnessYOGA
(%2682-0360; www.nosarawellness.com; Playa Pelada; classes US$14, private sessions from US$60)
This wellness center in Pelada offers everything from massage and acupuncture to pilates and yoga. If that’s all too mainstream for you, sign up for a session of aerial yoga, which promises to ‘realign you from the compression of gravity.’ Located just off the main road (Ruta 160) connecting Nosara to Play Pelada and northern points.
4Sleeping
The main access roads to Playa Guiones are lined with hostels, hotels, guesthouses and more. Some of the Playa Pelada options are up in the hills, away from the beach. Prices outside of high season can be 20% lower or better, as in much of the country.
o4 You HostalHOSTEL$
(%2682-1316; www.4youhostal.com; Playa Guiones; dm/s/d/bungalow US$20/34/44/60; paW)
A fantastic hostel close to the Guiones action. The high-end minimalist design makes this evolutionary flophouse (read: dorm) feel luxurious. Within the dorm are three pods that have walls that don’t quite reach the soaring ceiling, allowing for extra privacy. Decked out with Balinese furniture and plenty of hammocks, not to mention a spotless community kitchen and rooftop terrace. Located on the north beach-access road, just before it intersects with Ruta 160, the main Nosara-Pelada road.
Nosara Beach HostelHOSTEL$
(%2682-0238; www.facebook.com/nosara-beach-hostel; Playa Guiones; dm/d/d with air-con US$20/65/80; aW) 
S
Lounge in a hammock on the breezy porch, overlooking the iguana-filled gardens, just steps from the surf. You have a stone shower to wash away the sand and a comfy wooden bunk to crash on. There’s a big communal kitchen, a spacious TV room and – bonus – foosball. The vibe is super chill.
oVilla Mango B&BB&B$$
(%2682-1168; www.villamangocr.com; Playa Pelada; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast US$84/96/113/130, air-con US$10; paWs)
At this B&B in the trees set high on a hillside with views of both bays, you can’t help but relax. The seven spacious rooms have a Mediterranean flair, with gorgeous views and rustic stone and wood details. Lounge on the luxurious terrace, swim in the saltwater pool or take a short stroll down to the isolated stretch of beach.
The owner, Agnes, is delightful. Reserve in advance during high season.
Bodhi TreeHOTEL$$
(%2682-0256; www.bodhitreeyogaresort.com; Playa Guiones; dm from US$97; paWs)
Set on a lush hillside, this yoga resort is traversed by a gurgling river, complete with waterfall. The setting is gorgeous and serene – perfect for reconnecting with your breath, your body and the nature around you. The most affordable accommodations are simple, offering comfortable beds and ample storage space, as well as shared bathrooms with stone sinks and open-air showers. Yoga classes are held in a magnificent open-air studio with 360 degrees of canopy views. All rates include one daily class. Free electric shuttles and bikes to town, and the popular juice bar and restaurant are open to nonguests.
Green SanctuaryGUESTHOUSE$$
(%8320-9822; www.hotelgreensanctuary.com; Playa Guiones; d/tr incl breakfast US$95/111; aWs)
It’s a 700m hike to the beach, but that’s the only complaint about this spot in the woods. A stone path winds through the trees, connecting units made from old cargo containers; each has a private terrace, complete with hammock, and is surprisingly private. Take the southernmost access road from the beach and head all the way up the hill.
oCosta Rica Yoga SpaLODGE$$$
(%in USA 888-533-6461, 2682-0192; www.costaricayogaspa.com; Nosara; dm from US$165, additional person US$149, ste from US$279; pW) S
This gorgeous mountaintop retreat takes care of all of the details, providing delightful accommodations, gourmet vegetarian meals (included), yoga classes and transportation to the beach. The most affordable lodging is in shared rooms – with two bunkbeds, they offer less privacy, but still feature teak furniture, polished concrete floors and balconies with rewarding views. About 5km north of Nosara village. Take a tuk-tuk to get here if you don’t have your own wheels.
Lagarta LodgeLODGE$$$
(%2682-0035; www.lagartalodge.com; Playa Pelada; ste US$390-499; paWs) S
Completely transformed by a recent renovation, ‘the Lizard’ now offers 26 stunning suites overlooking the ocean and rivers, at the northern end of Pelada. The balcony restaurant is worth a visit just for the spectacular sea and sunset views. One night here might cost what your plane ticket did, but you’ll never forget it, either. The owners make an effort to contribute to local community education, and the onsite art gallery is dedicated to the indigenous Maleku people. The adjacent Reserva Biologica Nosara is free for guests to wander, and the onsite spa and restaurant ensconce you further in the lap of luxury.
Living Hotel & SpaBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%2682-5201; www.livinghotelnosara.com; Playa Guiones; d incl breakfast with/without bathroom US$165/95; pa
iWs)
Relax amid the simplicity and serenity of this tropical paradise. Pristine white rooms have tile floors, shiny wood ceilings and pretty stenciled walls. Tropical gardens surround the sparkling swimming pool, with plenty of communal space in the thatch-roof rancho. Located on the north beach access road.
Refresh your palate with a fresh-squeezed juice or some other healthy treat from Jasmine’s Cafe; refresh your mind and muscles with something from the full menu of spa treatments.
L’Acqua Viva Hotel & SpaHOTEL$$$
(%2682-1087, in Canada 1-877-216-0181, toll-free in USA 1-888-273-1977; www.lacquaviva.com; r US$180, ste US$270-300; paWs)
One of the most luxurious resorts in the central peninsula. Inside and out, the property is stunning, with water, wood and bamboo features throughout. The 36 contemporary rooms are decorated in minimalist style with all the five-star amenities you’d expect. Yet we do have one complaint: in a no-man’s land between Guiones and Pelada, it’s too far from the beach.
It’s 100m south of the turnoff to Pelada.
Nosara SuitesHOTEL$$$
(%2682-0087, 2682-1036; www.nosarasuites.com; Playa Guiones; d US$130-150; paWs)
Clearly the designer was given free rein in these six swish suites, which feature glass-floored lofts, floating staircases and plenty of original artwork. Also enjoy the king-size beds and rain showers. It’s set upstairs from Cafe de Paris, a local landmark. Unfortunately, the location on the main road is sometimes noisy.
5Eating
Robin’s Cafe & Ice CreamCAFE$
(%2682-0617; www.robinsicecream.com; Playa Guiones; mains US$6-8, ice cream US$2-4; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun; Wv)
Perfectly suited to Nosara’s health-conscious yogis and surfers. You’ll see Robin working the kitchen, preparing a welcome menu of sweet and savory crepes, tempting wraps, and sandwiches on homemade, whole-wheat focaccias. If you must indulge your sweet tooth (trust us, you must), the ice cream is sublime. On the road to the beach in ‘downtown’ Nosara.
SeekretspotGELATO$
(%2682-1325; Playa Pelada; ice cream US$3-6; hhours vary; W)
The secret is out: come to this sweet shack for an authentic gelato or sorbetto, made with love by Stefano and Frederica. For local flavor, go for coffee or coconut. If you need a pick-me-up, there are also fresh-brewed espresso drinks. Perfectly situated on your way back to Nosara from Playa Pelada, with a second location in Guiones, in case you miss the first.
Rosi’s Soda TicaSODA$
(%2682-0728; Playa Guiones; mains US$3-6; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat)
Now with two prominent locations, this is the favorite soda in Guiones and it’s a damn good one. It’s a perfect spot for breakfast, whether it’s banana pancakes or huevos rancheros. At lunchtime, Rosi keeps it real with casados (set menus) and the like. It takes time, but you can’t rush perfection. The ‘downtown’ location is on the main drag.
Jasmine’s CafeVEGETARIAN$
(Living Hotel; mains US$7-12; h7am-4pm; v)
Plant-based nutritional yumminess in a cool little shack next to Living Hotel, and you might even get a banjo serenade from the juicer. Noodle salads, veggie patacones (fried green plantains) and a couple of different veggie burgers round out the food menu while drinks like the Free Green (kale, cacao nibs, almond milk) will power you through your Nosara day.
Burgers & BeersBURGERS$$
(Peje; %2682-5558; www.facebook.com/burgersandbeerscr; Playa Guiones; mains US$14-16; hnoon-10pm; Wv)
Take your pick from six burgers and you’ll get a plump, juicy patty of goodness, served on a fresh bun with big french-fry wedges. There’s also a veggie burger and fish of the day, as well as a dozen craft beers on tap. Located on the north beach-access road.
El ChivoMEXICAN$$
(%2682-0887; www.elchivo.co; Playa Pelada; mains US$12-20; h11am-10pm)
A groovy roadside joint in the middle of the Pelada wilderness. Tacos are a favorite – try the house specialty, the buttery chipotle-lime shrimp version. Like any upstanding Mexican place, bargain Taco Tuesday is mandatory. But there’s also chimichurri-style steak and gut-busting ‘wet’ burritos (with cheese/sour cream) and a long list of tequilas and local beers, set among skull-and-wrestling-mask decor.
Al ChileMEXICAN$$
(Main St, Playa Guiones; mains US$12-14; h11am-10pm)
Fresh ingredients, friendly staff and amazing Tico-Mex served under the inviting shade of a palapa. A taco combo platter allows you to sample three different varieties, and spice lovers must try the homemade five-chili salsa. Zingy hibiscus-and-ginger frescas are on tap (add a dash of vodka if you like), and you can finish with a churro or caramelized banana. It’s part of the Sunset Shack hotel.
Beach Dog CaféCAFE$$
(%2682-1293; www.facebook.com/beachdogcafe; Playa Guiones; lunch mains US$6-10, dinner mains US$12-15; h8am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun; pWv)
Just steps from the beach, this groovy cafe, cojoined with a hostel of the same name, serves decadent and delicious food. Try banana-bread French toast for breakfast, or uber-popular fish tacos for lunch. Dinner is served every night but Sunday, and it occasionally hosts live music and shows movies on the beach.
Next to Coconut Harry’s beach location.
La LunaINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%2682-0122; Playa Pelada; dishes US$16-25; h7am-10pm)
Located on the beach, this trendy restaurant-bar has cushy couches right on the sand, perfect for sunset drinks. The interior is equally appealing, with soaring ceilings, a gorgeous hardwood bar and walls adorned with work by local artists. Asian and Mediterranean flourishes round out the eclectic menu, and the views (and cocktails) are intoxicating. Call ahead for reservations.
This will be your first sign of civilization if you’ve walked the beach from Playa Guiones and meandered up the footpath to Pelada.
Marlin Bill’sSEAFOOD$$$
(%2682-0458; Playa Guiones; meals US$15-25, burgers US$7-15; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun)
Across the main road from ‘downtown’ Guiones, this old-timers’ restaurant has views all the way to the ocean. The casual, open-air patio is a perfect place to feast on grilled tuna, ceviche and other fresh seafood. Bill is famous for his burgers, and Sunday brunch includes an awesome eggs Benedict.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Hear live music and get your groove on at the bar at Kaya Sol (Playa Guiones). The Beach Dog Café also has live music some evenings. Head to Bar Olga (Playa Pelada) after dark for drinking and dancing.
8Information
Banco Popular (%2682-0267, 2682-0011; Playa Guiones; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, 8:15-11:30am Sat)
Nosara Travel (%2682-0300; www.nosaratravel.com; Nosara; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri) Download a decent Nosara map from its website.
NosaraNet & Frog Pad (%2682-4039; www.thefrogpad.com; Villa Tortuga, Playa Guiones; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun; W) An all-purpose stop for information, supplies and communication. Dave can answer any question. You can also buy some reading material, rent a movie (or bike or surfboard) and surf the net.
Police (%2682-0317; Nosara) Next to the Red Cross and post office on the southeast corner of the soccer field in Nosara village center.
Tourist Police (%2632-0311; Plaza Guiones, Playa Guiones) On the main Guiones road at Plaza Guiones.
8Getting There & Away
You can get here by airplane or bus, and there are many accommodations options close to the beach; so you don’t really need your own vehicle in Nosara. That said, it’s a sprawling area so you’ll appreciate a car if you intend to explore the environs.
AIR
NatureAir has two daily flights to and from San José for about US$149 one way. It offers discounts based on the weight of your luggage.
BUS
Local buses depart from the pulpería (corner grocery store) by the soccer field. Traroc buses depart for Nicoya (US$3.60, two hours) at 5am, 7am, noon and 3pm. To get to Sámara, take any bus out of Nosara and ask the driver to drop you off at ‘la bomba de Sámara’ (Sámara gas station). From there, flag down one of the buses traveling from Nicoya to Sámara.
CAR
From Nicoya, a paved road leads toward Playa Sámara. About 5km before Sámara, turn onto a windy, bumpy (and, in the dry season, dusty) dirt road to Nosara village (4WD recommended). This road was being paved at the time of research, so cross your fingers, folks. It’s also possible (in the dry season) to drive north to Ostional, Junquillal and Paraíso, though you’ll have to ford a few rivers. Ask around before trying this in the rainy season, when Río Nosara becomes impassable.
There are two gas stations in Nosara village, and a couple of rental car agencies in the area:
Economy Rent a Car (%2299-2000; www.economyrentacar.com; Playa Guiones; h8am-6pm)
National (%2242-7878; www.natcar.com; Playa Guiones; h8am-5pm)
Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional
This 248-hectare coastal refuge (%2683-0400; www.areasyparques.com/areasprotegidas/ostional; adult/child US$12/2, turtle tours incl admission US$20) extends from Punta India in the north to Playa Guiones in the south, and includes the beaches of Playa Nosara and Playa Ostional. It was created in 1992 to protect the arribadas (mass nestings of the olive ridley sea turtles), which occur from from July to December (peaking in September and October). Ostional is one of two main nesting grounds for this turtle in Costa Rica, along with Playa Nancite in Parque Nacional Santa Rosa.
Outside of arribada, Ostional is usually deserted. But there is 5km of unbroken beach here, sprinkled with driftwood and swaying coconut palms. It’s an ideal spot for surfing and sunbathing, birding and beachcombing.
2Activities
Surfing
Surfers catch some good lefts and rights here just after low tide. Otherwise, this stretch of sea is notorious for strong currents and isn’t suitable for swimming (unless you’re green and have flippers).
Wildlife-Watching
Ostional is rife with sea creatures, even in addition to the turtles. Rocky Punta India at the northwestern end of the refuge has tide pools that abound with marine life, such as sea anemones, urchins and starfish. Along the beach, thousands of almost transparent ghost crabs go about their business, as do the bright-red Sally Lightfoot crabs.
The sparse vegetation behind the beach consists mainly of deciduous trees and is home to iguanas, crabs, howler monkeys, pizotes (coatis) and birds. Near the southeastern edge of the refuge is a small mangrove swamp where there is good birdwatching.
THE PARK’S TURTLES
The olive ridley is one of the smallest species of sea turtle, typically weighing around 45kg. Although they are endangered, there are a few beaches in the world where ridleys nest in large groups that can number in the thousands. Scientists believe that this behavior is an attempt to overwhelm predators.
Prior to the creation of the park, coastal residents used to harvest and sell eggs indiscriminately (raw turtle eggs increase sexual vigor, or so they say). In recent years, however, an imaginative conservation plan has been put into place. Residents of Ostional are allowed to harvest eggs from the first laying, as these eggs are often trampled by subsequent waves of nesting turtles anyway (you can gulp down an eye-opening turtle-egg-and-hot-sauce shot at the local mercado: you’ll see a sign advertising this on the main north–south road through town). By allowing this limited harvesting, the community maintains its economic livelihood, and the villagers in turn act as park rangers to prevent poachers from infringing on their enterprise.
TTours
Mass arrivals of nesting turtles occur every three or four weeks during the rainy season (usually on dark nights preceding a new moon) and last about four nights. It’s possible to see turtles in lesser numbers almost any night during nesting season. In the dry season a fitting consolation prize is the small number of leatherback and green turtles that also nest here. Many tour operators in the region offer tours to Ostional during nesting season, or you can arrange with local guides to visit independently.
MinaeWILDLIFE
(%2682-0400; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat)
The government agency that controls wildlife, Minae can help larger groups organize turtle-watching, because each guide is only allowed to bring 10 people on the beach at one time. They’re located in a light-green building behind the cemetery, right on the beach. Authorized guides can be identified by the government-issued carnet, and a T-shirt with the proper logo.
4Sleeping & Eating
Most turtle tourists come on tours or drive themselves from Nosara or Sámara; but there are a few simple guesthouses in town for those who care to spend the night (and avoid driving on the treacherous road in the dark). North of the village, there are a few fancier accommodations options.
Ostional Turtle LodgeLODGE$
(%2682-0131; www.ostionalturtlelodge.com; s/d/tr/q from US$26/40/56/70, air-con US$6; paW)
A great guesthouse with only five simple rooms equipped with the basics, as well as a more spacious and stylish chalet. Guests spend most of their time in the exquisite community rancho on the communal patio’s sofas and easy chairs, backed by mangroves, overlooking pastureland and within earshot of the sea. Just off of Route 160, this is the first lodging you’ll encounter coming from the south and Nosara.
Luna AzulHOTEL$$$
(%2682-1400; www.hotellunaazul.com; d incl breakfast US$192; paWs)
This elegant hotel is a surprise, with its spacious bungalows and inviting infinity pool. From the outdoor showers to the private terraces, this is a place for relaxing – and perhaps eyeing a monkey or a bird or two. There is a fine onsite restaurant with the same chef for the past decade. About 4km north of Ostional village. The owner, Rolf, a retired Swiss biologist, is helpful in arranging turtle tours and other excursions.
Las Tortugas PizzeriaCOSTA RICAN$
(%2682-0627; mains US$5-7; h8am-9pm)
About the only place to eat in town besides the soda, this roadhouse restaurant has a nice lunch and drinks menu and serves massive, delicious breakfasts and cocktails throughout the day. Don’t come for the pizzas, despite the name – the other food’s much better. The perfect place to while away the hours, waiting for a bus or a turtle tour.
Treetops InnINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%2682-1335; www.costaricatreetopsinn.com; San Juanillo; lunch/dinner per person US$32/62; hlunch 11am-2pm, dinner by reservation)
Jack and Karen Hunter are renowned for their decadent five-course candlelit dinners (reserve one day in advance), potent piña coladas, fresh-picked mango margaritas, and their engaging storytelling. The prix-fixe meals feature the best of local ingredients, especially seafood and tropical fruit. It all takes place on a shaded deck with marvelous views of the forest canopy and the ocean beyond. The couple also rents out two rooms – one that is actually in the treetops, and another bungalow on the beach. Located about 8km north of Ostional in the village of San Juanillo. Cash only.
8Getting There & Away
Ostional village is about 8km northwest of Nosara village. During the dry months there is one daily bus from Santa Cruz (two hours), departing Ostional at 5am and returning from Santa Cruz at 12:30pm. From Nosara, there are buses to Ostional at 5am, 7:15am and 3:30pm (30 minutes, US$1) and return buses at 2:30pm and 6pm. Note that at any time of the year the road can get washed out by rain.
If you’re driving, you’ll need a 4WD, as the journey requires at least one river crossing. Ask locally about conditions before setting out. From the main road joining Nosara beach and village, head north and cross the bridge over the Río Nosara. After 2km, you’ll reach a T-junction. Take the left fork (which is signed) and continue about 6km north to Ostional.
Beyond Ostional, the dirt road continues on to San Juanillo and Marbella before arriving in Paraíso, northeast of Junquillal. Again, inquire locally before attempting this drive, and don’t be afraid to use your 4WD.
Playa Sámara
POP 4150
Is Sámara the black hole of happiness? That’s what more than one expat has said after stopping here on vacation and never leaving. On the surface it’s just a laid-back beach town with barefoot, three-star appeal. The crescent-shaped strip of pale-gray sand spans two rocky headlands, where the sea is calm and beautiful. It’s not spectacular, just safe, mellow, reasonably developed, easily navigable on foot and accessible by public transportation. Not surprisingly, it’s popular with vacationing Ticos, foreign families and backpackers, a somewhat rare, happy mix of visitors and locals. But be careful, the longer you stay the less you’ll want to leave.
If you’ve got some extra time and a 4WD, explore the hidden beaches north of Sámara, such as Playas Barrigona and Buenavista.
2Activities
No matter what you like to do at the beach, you can probably do it at Playa Sámara. Expert surfers might get bored by Sámara’s inconsistent waves, but beginners will have a blast. Otherwise, there’s hiking, horseback riding and sea kayaking, as well as snorkeling out around Isla la Chora. Take a break from the beach to explore the forested hillsides on foot or by zipline. Samara is not far from the turtle tours up the coast in Ostional, or just to the south on the coast at Playa Camaronal.
Pato Surf SchoolSURFING
(%8761-4638; www.patossurfingsamara.com; board rental per day US$15, lessons US$35-45; h8am-5pm)
Pato offers inexpensive and quality board rental, as well as beginner surf instruction, on the beach at the southwest end of town. The instructors are top-notch. Pay for a lesson and get free board rental for five days. Also on offer: stand-up paddle rental and lessons; kayak rental and tours; snorkel gear; and beach massages. What else do you want?
C&C Surf SchoolSURFING
(%8817-2203, 8599-1874; www.facebook.com/CC-Surf-School-241875342489270; board rentals per day US$15, lessons group/private US$45/60; h8am-8pm)
A great choice at the south end of the bach, offering lessons for individuals, pairs and small groups. Especially recommended for beginners. Owner Adolfo Gómez is a champion longboarder who has represented Costa Rica in the Central American Surfing Games. It’s down at the south end of the beach behind Casa Valeria.
Guana BikeMOUNTAIN BIKING
(Samara on Wheels; %8730-7981; www.guanabike.isamara.co; per day US$10; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat)
It’s easier to navigate Sámara’s narrow streets on a bike than a car, for sure. And at this price, why not? This family-run local business will get you the wheels you need to cruise the mean streets of Guanacaste for a day, a week, or a month. Next to Coco’s restaurant/bar.
Sámara TrailsHIKING
(Samara Adventure Company; %2656-0920; www.samaratrails.com; adult/child US$40/30; h6:30am & 2:30pm, with reservation)
This hike departs from the office across from Wingnuts, then follows a 6km route through a mango plantation and into the Werner Sauter Biological Reserve, located in the hills above Sámara. In 2½ hours, your naturalist guide covers the history of the area and the ecology of the dry tropical forest. The office in town is on the main road.
WingnutsCANOPY TOUR
(%2656-0153; www.wingnutscanopy.com; adult/child US$60/45; htours 8am, 9am, noon & 1pm)
One entrepreneurial family found a way to preserve their beautiful, wild patch of dry tropical forest: by setting up a small-scale canopy tour. Family-owned and professionally run, this 10-platform operation is unique for its personal approach, as groups max out at 10 people. The price includes transportation from your hotel in Sámara.
Flying CrocodileSCENIC FLIGHTS
(%2656-8048; www.flying-crocodile.com; per person 20min/30min/60min US$110/150/230)
About 6km north of Sámara in Playa Buenavista, the Flying Crocodile offers ultra-light flights over the nearby beaches and mangroves. Onsite there is also a pretty cool hotel, set on jungly grounds and populated by wildlife.
Leo ToursADVENTURE
(%8995-6820; www.leotourssamara.com; kayak-snorkel per person US$40)
Leo has kayaks, fishing rods, snorkel gear and even a boat. That means he’ll take you out for any kind of water fun you crave, from sea kayaking to sportfishing. A favorite tour is kayaking out to Isla la Chora, where you can snorkel around the island. Find him on the beach 50m northeast of Gusto.
CCourses
Centro de Idiomas InterculturaLANGUAGE
(%2656-3000; www.interculturacostarica.com; courses per week with/without homestay US$470/315)
Centro de Idiomas Intercultura is right on the beach, which makes for a pleasant – if not always productive – place to study. Language courses can be arranged with or without a family homestay. Courses for kids are also available.
4Sleeping
In town, it’s nearly impossible to be more than two blocks from the beach. Many hotels, hostels and charming guesthouses are clustered in the small rectangular grid that borders the sand. If you prefer to be further away from the action, there are some real gems west of town. Generally, budget options greet you with a brisk cold morning shower, while midrange and top-end facilities have hot water.
oCamp SupertrampHOSTEL$
(%2656-0373; www.campsupertramp.com; Camino Buena Vista; campsites per person US$8, dm US$15)
Something truly unique’s going down here, 2km east of town. The list of things to love is long: Thomas (the owner), Subwoofer (the dog), the jungle shower, the fire pit, the 1971 VW bus, the table-tennis table and the volleyball court. Both the multilevel Monkey Room and Deluxe Dorm have new beds. The vibe here is fun-filled and super chill.
El Cactus HostelHOSTEL$
(%2656-3224; www.samarabackpacker.com; dm US$16, d US$35-62; Ws)
Brightly painted in citrus colors, El Cactus is a great option for Sámara’s backpacker set, especially those who prefer serenity over revelry. Fresh rooms have wooden furniture, clean linens and hot-water showers. Hammocks hang around a small pool, and a fully fitted kitchen is also available. Located on a side street in the center of town, 100m from the beach.
Casa ParaisoGUESTHOUSE$
(%2656-0741; scodinzolo@libero.it; dm/d US$15/60; W)
A lovely little guesthouse tucked in behind Ahora Sí. Four simple rooms and a shared dorm are brushed in deep blues and inviting pastels, with thematic murals, high ceilings and comfy beds. Ceiling fans will keep you cool while hot-water showers will warm you up. Hostess Sylvia will overwhelm you with her charm, and there’s Italian cooking at the restaurant.
Sámara Palm LodgeGUESTHOUSE$$
(%2656-1169; www.samarapalmlodge.com; d US$70-80; paWs)
An inviting little Swiss-owned lodge on the edge of town. Eight spotless rooms feature tropical decor, with stained wood furniture, tile floors and bold colorful artwork. They face a lush garden and enticing swimming pool. Just over the bridge, a little west of town but just a five-minute walk to the beach.
La Mansion B&BB&B$$
(Bed and Best Breakfast; %2265-0165; www.samarainfocenter.com/accommodations/b-bs/la-mansion-b-b; s US$40, d US$50-80, ste US$150; paW)
This whitewashed concrete hacienda, twirling with fans and bursting with colorful knickknacks, is on a quiet street. There’s loads of charm: rooms are spacious and bright, and ex-Arizonian hostess Marlene McCauley is proud of her huge and delicious breakfast repasts. Her artwork adorns the walls and you can even buy one of her cute bird-themed postcards. Air-con is extra.
Tico Adventure LodgeLODGE$$
(%2656-0628; www.ticoadventurelodge.com; tw/d/q/apt US$59/74/90/160; paWs)
The US owners are proud of the fact that they built this lodge without cutting down a single tree, and they have every reason to be – it’s pretty sharp. Nine double rooms and several larger apartments are surrounded by lush vegetation and old-growth trees. There’s an outdoor kitchen and cookout area for communal use, a Jacuzzi, and a yoga/spa area.
Casa del MarHOTEL$$
(%2656-0264; www.casadelmarsamara.net; s/d/tr US$90/90/110, without bathroom US$40/55/70; paWs) S
Surrounding a big mango tree and a tiny swimming pool are 17 rooms with whitewashed stucco walls and tile floors. The rooms that share a bathroom are a steal. The beach, where the hotel provides chairs and towels for its guests, is right across the street. The French- and English-speaking staff are friendly and attentive. At the main Sámara intersection.
oLazDivazB&B$$$
(%2656-0295; www.lazdivaz.com; d US$113-124; pW)
They call it a B&C. No breakfast, just coffee. These three darling casitas are perched in the sand, about 400m east of the village center. The lodgings are simply decorated, but immaculately clean and exceedingly comfortable. Your main entertainment here will be swinging in a hammock and watching the sea and sky. Pura vida.
Las RanasLODGE$$$
(%2656-0609; www.lodgelasranas.com; d/tr US$125/142; paWs)
A sharp stucco lodge with a king’s location. We’re talking nearly 180 degrees of ocean vistas from the restaurant, pool and upper rooms. And those rooms are gorgeous, with canopy beds, granite-tile floors, balconies, and soaring beamed ceilings – one even has a kitchenette. It’s a few kilometers west of town, so you’ll need wheels.
This place is worth the trip as the leafy grounds are alive with birdlife and other animals. Spotted here: a stunning pair of western tanagers.
Sámara Tree House InnBUNGALOW$$$
(%2656-0733; www.samaratreehouse.com; d incl breakfast US$110-170; paWs)
These six stilted tree houses for grown-ups are so appealing that you might not want to leave. Fully equipped kitchens have pots and pans hanging from driftwood racks, huge windows welcome light and breezes, and hammocks hang underneath. The pricier units face the beach. You can’t get much closer than this to the ocean without getting on a surfboard.
El Pequeño Gecko VerdeBUNGALOW$$$
(%2656-1176; www.gecko-verde.com; d US$120-165, q US$240; paWs)
A hidden slice of heaven. Contemporary and classy, these bungalows have beds dressed in plush linens, artisanal carvings on the walls, private terraces with hammocks and outdoor dining areas, and outdoor stone showers. Onsite amenities include a saltwater swimming pool with waterfall, lush gardens and a fabulous open-air restaurant and bar. Located several kilometers west of town.
5Eating
oLo Que HayMEXICAN$
(%2656-0811; www.loquehaybeachbar.com; tacos US$2, mains US$8-12; h7am-11pm)
This rocking beachside taquería and pub offers six delectable taco fillings: fish, chorizo, chicken, beef, pork or veggie. The grilled avocados stuffed with pico de gallo are great. Even without tacos, a good time will be had as the bar crowd drinks into the wee small hours.
Luv BurgerVEGETARIAN, BURGERS$
(%2656-3348; www.luvburger.com; mains US$5-8; h8am-5pm; v)
Moved to the beachfront from its former mini-mall locale, it’s all veggie, all the time, from vegan pancakes for breakfast to guilt-free ice cream for dessert – even burgers and sandwiches are meat-free. Coffee drinks are made only with soy or almond milk.
Roots BakeryBAKERY$
(%8924-2770; www.facebook.com/rootsbakerycafeEnSamara; items US$3-5; h7am-4pm Mon-Sat, to noon Sun; W)
The carrot cake is really good, and the spinach quiche is better. But the cinnamon buns are otherworldly – so rich, gooey, sweet and chewy that you might have to do penance after you eat one. Required eating. Roots is on the main drag, opposite the turnoff to Carrillo. Like many places to eat in Sámara, it’s cash only.
Fiesta Crêp’FRENCH$
(mains US$4-6; h8am-8pm Thu-Tue)
Salty or sweet? The savory crepes are good, the sweet ones even better, and during the day hummingbirds zoom in and out of the garden patio. If the banana-chocolate or passionfruit-cream offerings aren’t quite enough, there’s a list of cocktails and French wines, and the expat owners are eager to pour them. On the town’s main north–south drag.
Ahora SíVEGETARIAN$
(%2656-0741; www.ahorasi.isamara.co; mains US$5-11; h8am-10pm; pWv)
Sylvia of Bergamo runs this vegetarian restaurant and all-natural cocktail bar, and the fish joint next door. Expect smoothies with coconut milk, gnocchi with chive or smoked cheese, soy burgers, and imported Italian pasta. All served on a lovingly decorated tiled patio where the chairbacks are shaped into musical notes and the menus contain inspirational quotes. Good vibes, good food. It’s about one block from the beach in the southeast corner of town.
Sámara Organics – Mercado OrganicoMARKET$$
(%2656-3046; www.samaraorganics.com; smoothies & juices US$4-5; h7am-8pm)
It’s not cheap, but self-caterers (and anybody with a diet-ary restriction) will appreciate this cafe and market, well-stocked with organic produce and delicious prepared foods. Come get your healthy food fix, and enjoy the small seating area for a chat or read. On the main beach road, parallel to the water.
Casa EsmeraldaSODA$$
(%2656-0489; www.facebook.com/casaesmeralda.samara; mains US$9-20; h7am-10pm)
A favorite with locals, this is a dressed-up soda with tablecloths, faux-adobe walls and excellent food. The menu ranges from the expected (arroz con pollo – chicken with rice) to the exotic (Italian octopus appetizer), all of which is fantastic. Be prepared to wait when it gets busy. About a block from the beach at the southeast end of town. It has rooms to rent upstairs.
El LagartoBARBECUE$$
(%2656-0750; mains US$11-25; h3-11pm; W)
Grilled meats are the big draw at this alfresco restaurant, studded with old trees and walking distance to the waves. Watching the chefs work their magic on the giant wood-fired oven is part of the fun. The Surf & Turf is highly recommended, as are the cocktails.
LocandaPIZZA$$
(Locanda Hotel & Pizzeria; %2656-0036; www.locandasamarabeach.com; mains US$12-16; h7am-11pm)
Ask anyone in Sámara where the best pizza in town is and they’ll point you here, at the southern corner of the beach. The thin-crust slices disappear as quickly as the sun over the horizon. Enjoy the two-for-one drink specials – maybe a Pink Lady or a Down Under Fizz – while the waves wash over your mind.
La Dolce VitaITALIAN$$
(%2656-3371; www.facebook.com/ladolcevita.samara; US$8-15; h5-10pm)
Life is sweet when you’re sitting under a giant palapa on the sand, drinking a smoothie and watching the surfers. This is a popular spot for pizza and sundowners, thanks to affable Italian owners and a prime beachfront locale.
Life is even sweeter when your bed is just a few meters away. The interior-facing guest rooms have bamboo furniture and jewel-painted walls.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Flying TacoBAR
(El Taco Volador; %8409-5376; h11am-2am; W)
A laid-back, Tex-Mex beach bar near the soccer field. It’s open for lunch – and the grub is recommended – but it’s more fun to come at night, when you can also sing karaoke, play poker and drink margaritas. The Wednesday open-mic ‘Taco Jam’ fills the bar with musical talent of varying levels, having a blast. But don’t forget the tacos. It’s just down the street from the main north–south drag.
MicrobarMICROBREWERY
(h5pm-midnight)
Not an inch of space is wasted in this smart little bar on the main road, which serves up 21 Costa Rican microbrews plus infused ‘beertails’ like the Terremoto (dark rum and dark beer) and the Apocatopia (vanilla, bourbon, light ale). You get a serving of popcorn with every drink. The head-bobbing electronica throbs, and your head might tomorrow, too.
Media LunaCOCKTAIL BAR
(Tapas y Vino; %8416-1852; www.facebook.com/Media-Luna; h6pm-2am)
Art deco artistic touches with a Latin backbeat on the main drag. A full complement of tapas and specialty drinks like the Guaro Sour keep you smiling while you’re immersed at the dartboard, pool table, or in the super-popular Latin Dance Night (Thursday) when the room gets packed and the DJ keeps it lively till the wee hours.
7Shopping
Sámara has a more creative vibe than most beach towns on the peninsula. You’ll find a handful of galleries selling hand-crafted jewelry and exquisite items, as well as vendors hawking their wares at stands along the main road, and at your beachside restaurant tables.
CocotalesJEWELRY
(%8807-7056; h8am-8pm)
Carlos Caicedo travels around South America to procure gorgeous semiprecious stones, which he crafts into fine jewelry right here in the back of his shop, on the main north–south road. There are also plenty of clever creations from recycled materials. But his most unique and eye-catching pieces are crafted from cocoa beans (grown locally, of course).
8Information
Banco Costa Rica (h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, ATM 24hr) Just off the main road, across from the soccer field.
Banco Nacional (%2656-0086; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Located next to the church.
La Vida Verde (Green Life; %2656-1051; greenlife@samarabeach.com; per kg US$3; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat) Drop your dirty duds off at this laundry, 75m west of Banco Nacional. Or call ahead for pickup and delivery.
Post office (h8am-noon & 1:15-5:30pm Mon-Fri) Located in the same building as the police station, on the main road where it meets the beach.
Samara Beach (www.samarabeach.com) Surf this excellent website to get the skinny on Sámara, including a decent tourist map of the village and beach.
Samara Info Center (%2656-2424; www.samarainfocenter.com; h8am-6pm) Located in front of Lo Que Hay, the Info Center is run by the amiable Brenda and Christopher. It’s basically a tour consolidator, but they can help with accommodations, restaurant recommendations, transportation and simply answering questions about Sámara and Carrillo. And it books tours.
8Getting There & Away
Playa Sámara lies about 35km southwest of Nicoya on a paved road. The nearby Carrillo airstrip is now closed; the nearest charter flight one could book would be for Nosara.
Traroc buses go to Nicoya (US$3.60, one hour) 10 times a day from 5:30am to 7pm. Heading in the opposite direction, the same buses go to Playa Carrillo. Coming into town from other parts of the peninsula you’ll need to disembark at the gas station (la bomba) and hitch your way into town. Hitching is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk.
Playa Carrillo
POP 1800
About 4km southeast of Sámara, Carrillo is a wide, crescent-shaped beach with clean white sand, cracked granite headlands and a jungle backdrop. On weekends and holidays, the palm-fringed boulevard is lined with cars and the beach crowded with Tico families. At other times, it’s practically deserted. The little town is on a hillside above the beach and attracts a trickle of sunbathers and surfers working their way down the coast. Interesting and pretty tidal pools form at high tide at the southern end of the beach near town.
2Activities
Kingfisher SportfishingFISHING
(%8358-9561, 2656-0091; www.costaricabillfishing.com; half-day excursions from US$900)
A well-known local outfit offering deep-sea fishing on board the Kingfisher. Captain Rick and his crew provide top-notch service. Packages include accommodations at the luxurious Villa Oasis. The boat picks you up at the southern end of Playa Carrillo, where the boats are moored.
Carrillo ToursTOURS
(%2656-0543; www.carrillotours.com; h8am-7pm)
On the road up the hill, next to a mini mercado, Carrillo Tours organizes turtle tours, snorkeling, kayaking, horseback riding and trips to Palo Verde. There’s an office in Sámara as well, which is more extensive and reliably open – it’s on the main road.
4Sleeping & Eating
La PosadaB&B$$
(%2656-3131; www.laposada.co.cr; d incl breakfast US$60-75; paW)
High on the hill with sweeping panoramas of the trees and the sea, this B&B makes a sweet retreat. Simple rooms have wood and wicker furniture and tropical flourishes. It’s worth the extra US$10 for an ocean-view room, but the communal terrace will give you a similarly awesome visual experience. Twice-weekly yoga classes are held on the terrace. Larger room available for families.
La TropicaleBUNGALOW$$
(%2656-0159, 8884-9471; www.latropicaleguesthouse.com; d/q incl breakfast US$60/140; paWs)
Across from La Selva wildlife reserve is this fun, funky, fabulous inn that has ramshackle charm and plenty of hip touches. A stony path winds around the sparkling swimming pool and through mango, papaya and coconut trees. Stand-alone bungalows are draped with bold linens, lit with funky light fixtures and hung with original art. Owner Arnaud has stepped it up a notch with the onsite Chez Nous restaurant, featuring French and seafood specialties.
Hideaway HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%2656-1145; www.thehideawayplayasamara.com; d/tr/q incl breakfast US$110/145/180, penthouse US$349-499; paWs)
Midway between Carrillo and Sámara, this attractive whitewashed place is noteworthy for its super service and intimate atmosphere. A dozen spacious tiled suites all overlook the pleasant pool and blooming gardens. The airy restaurant is excellent. There is a small beach at the end of the road; alternatively, Playa Carrillo is a 15-minute walk. A separate ‘penthouse’ houses six to eight guests.
8Getting There & Away
The airstrip in Carillo is now closed, even to charter services. Buses operated by Traroc (%2685-5352; www.traroc.com) originate in Estrada, just east of here. From Carrillo, the buses go to Sámara, then continue on to Nicoya (US$3.60, 90 minutes, 10 daily). The fare to Sámara is 60¢ for a 20-minute ride.
Islita Area
The coast southeast of Playa Carrillo remains one of the peninsula’s most isolated and wonderful stretches of coastline, mainly because much of it is inaccessible and lacking in accommodations. But if you’re willing to tackle rugged roads or venture down the coastline in a sea kayak (or possibly on foot), you’ll be rewarded with abandoned beaches backed by pristine wilderness and rugged hills.
Islita is a pretty little town centered on a church and a soccer field, spruced up by artwork. The place looks unexpectedly prosperous, thanks to the efforts of the Hotel Punta Islita, which channels funding into the local community.
There are a few small breaks in front of the hotel, where you’ll find a gorgeous cove punctuated with that evocative wave-thrashed boulder that is Punta Islita. At high tide the beach narrows, but at low tide it is wide, and as romantic as those vistas from above.
1Sights
Ara ProjectZOO
(%8351-7849; www.thearaproject.org; admission by donation US$20; h4-5pm)
A local NGO that is dedicated to the conservation of Costa Rica’s two species of macaw: the great green macaw and the scarlet macaw. The group rehabilitates injured or rescued birds and eventually reintroduces them into the wild. From the lookout point, you can watch scarlet macaws return to their roost. It’s quite a sight. There is an informative visitor center with lots of information about the organization. The easiest way to get here is to arrange transport with Ara in advance. It is possible to walk here, taking the dirt trail near the Hotel Punta Islita, in 20 to 30 minutes.
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre CamaronalWILDLIFE RESERVE
(Playa Camaronal; %2659-8375; www.fundecodes.org/refugio-nacional-de-vida-silvestre-camaronal; US$6; h8am-6pm)
A good beach and point break, this charcoal gray stretch north of Punta Islita is strewn with driftwood and sheltered by two headlands. This beach also happens to be a protected nesting site for leatherback, olive ridley, hawksbill and black turtles, hence its protected status. Hotel Punta Islita offers turtle tours to Camaronal, as do tour operators in Sámara and Carrillo.
Playa CorzalitoBEACH
About 4km south of Punta Islita, Playa Corzalito is backed by mangrove swamps, offering plenty of opportunities to spot birds and other wildlife.
Playa BejucoBEACH
South of Punta Islita, Playa Bejuco is backed by mangrove swamps, offering excellent wildlife-watching opportunities.
Museo IslitaMUSEUM
(%2656-2039; www.museoislita.org; h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) 
F
Facing the soccer field, this little museum, sponsored by the Hotel Punta Islita, is an imaginative contemporary art house. It’s basically a studio and gallery, featuring artwork and handicrafts by local artists. Pick up a map for the Arte Contemporáneo al Aire Libre, which includes mosaics, carvings and paintings that adorn everything from houses to tree trunks around the village.
4Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Punta IslitaRESORT$$$
(%2231-6122; www.hotelpuntaislita.com; d incl breakfast from US$280; paiWs) S
This hilltop hotel has 54 fully equipped rooms with staggering ocean views. (If you spring for a suite, you’ll enjoy this view from a private outdoor Jacuzzi.) The infinity pool and surrounding grounds are stunning. The amenities onsite do not stop, including a full-service spa, a beach club with a sunken pool bar and lounges on a rolling lawn.
This luxury resort serves as an example of how to ethically operate a hotel. In addition to implementing sustainability measures and organizing community arts projects, it has sponsored the construction of various public buildings, including the local art gallery, elementary school and village church (which hosts many destination weddings, so that was a win-win).
PacificoCOSTA RICAN$$$
(%2661-4044; Hotel Punta Islita; mains US$14-28; h7am-10pm; pW)
The restaurant at the Hotel Punta Islita showcases Tico flavors with the freshest seafood, local meats and poultry, and organic produce. A superlative ocean view complements the beautiful food presentations.
8Getting There & Away
There’s no public transportation to Punta Islita. In any case, you’ll probably want your own vehicle to explore the coastline, preferably a 4WD.
There’s a permanent bridge over the Río Ora, so the 10km journey between Puerto Carrillo and Punta Islita ist a lot easier than it once was. South of the bridge, the road condition is less reliable; proceed with caution during the rainy season.
Commercial flights have stopped here, but you can charter a flight from San Jose for about US$150.
Playas San Miguel & Coyote
Two of the most gorgeous – yet least visited – beaches in Costa Rica are on this stretch of the peninsula, just south of Bejuca. Playa San Miguel is a stunning, desolate beach buffeted by a hulking granite headland and backed by elegant coconut palms. There are a couple of restaurants spread out on the beach, but not much more. Playa Coyote, to the south, is likewise a wilderness beach, but at high tide much of the fine, silver-gray sand gets swallowed up. Both beaches serve as nesting grounds for olive ridley turtles.
A number of in-the-know foreigners have settled in the area and opened accommodations and restaurants near the shoreline. If you’re looking for a proper village, La Javilla is located 2km inland from Playa San Miguel; further south, San Francisco de Coyote is 4km inland from Playa Coyote. Get here before this slice of ‘old’ Costa Rica becomes the ‘new’ Costa Rica.
2Activities
You can surf crowd-free beach breaks off San Miguel, particularly when the tide is rising. At Coyote there is an offshore reef that can be surfed at high tide. When swimming, you are advised to take precautions as the surf can pick up, and there are not many people in the area to help you in an emergency. If you have your own sea kayak, these beaches (as well as nearby Islita) are perfect for coastal exploration.
Mike’s Jungle Butterfly FarmGARDENS
(%8719-1703; www.facebook.com/junglebutterflyfarm; Nandayure, Pueblo Nuevo; tours adult/child US$25/12; h9am-3pm Mon-Sat)
Mike’s beautiful 47-acre mountainside property, 10 minutes north of San Miguel, includes walking trails and a butterfly rancho. In addition to the butterflies, you might spot howler monkeys, agoutis and iguanas. He also has colonies of wild bees; you can buy their honey in the gift shop. Book ahead for a tour. Turn west at the Catholic Church/sports field in Nadayure.
Turtle TraxVOLUNTEERING
(www.turtle-trax.com; San Francisco)
Turtle Trax collaborates with environmental watchdog CREMA (Rescue Center for Endangered Marine Species; cremacr.org) to offer opportunities to visiting volunteers who want to help monitor the turtle beaches in the area. Tasks include patrolling the beach, recording data, collecting eggs, maintaining the hatcheries and releasing the newly hatched tortuguitas (baby turtles). The organization also offers one-day and longer environmental tours. Located 100m south of the school in San Francisco de Coyote
Turtle Trax can organize affordable (rustic) housing and transportation for volunteers. Other opportunities include working in the local schools and collecting trash on the beach.
4Sleeping
There’s a smattering of unique and lovely lodgings spread out along this coast, though they are few and far between. Alternatively, both villages have cabinas that are acceptable options in which to pass a night. You can camp on either beach if you’re self-sufficient, but there are no services.
Laguna MarBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$
(%2655-8181, in USA 704-851-8181; www.lagunamarhotel.com; Javilla; s US$46, d incl breakfast US$74-93; paWs)
In the center of unassuming La Javilla (2km from the beach), this semi-swanky hotel is incongruous with the setting, but still lovely. Rooms are simple but sophisticated, with high-thread-count linens and flat-screen TVs, set around a sublime three-in-one swimming pool. A bargain ‘surfer’ room on offer for that lucky solo traveler. Extra props for the excellent European restaurant. It’s just off the main road.
Cristal AzulB&B$$$
(%2655-8135; www.cristalazulhotel.com; d from US$255; pWs)
Spectacular panoramas surround you at this hilltop retreat, where the four cabinas feature floor-to-ceiling windows, open-air showers and super-comfortable beds. It’s worth the treacherous journey to spend a few days swinging in a hammock or lounging around the infinity pool (which really does seem to go on forever). Eager to share their little piece of paradise, your hosts are delightful. A 4WD, and a half-day’s patience, is required to drive here. Two-night minimum stay.
Casa CaletasBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(%2655-1271; www.casacaletas.com; Punta Coyote; s/d/tri/ste US$96/120/145/155; paWs)
Sitting pretty on a bank of the Río Coyote, this gorgeous property is at once blessedly intimate and blissfully isolated. Rooms are gorgeously decorated with heavy wood furniture and folksy art. A walking trail leads to the beach.
Take the road from San Francisco de Coyote toward Mal País and follow the signs for the hotel. If driving from Playa Naranjo (the Puntarenas Ferry) take the road toward Jicaral; at the main plaza in San Francisco de Coyote, turn left.
All the rooms have private terraces with views to the ocean. Taking advantage of the same panorama, the infinity pool lives up to its name.
5Eating
oLocosCocosSEAFOOD$$
(www.locoscocos.com; Playa San Miguel; mains US$5-12; h11am-sunset Tue-Sun; c)
Best. Beach. Bar. And that’s saying something in Costa Rica. On an amazing, nearly deserted stretch of beach, Henner serves up his secret-family-recipe ceviche out of an old shipping container. Ice cold beers cap off this near-perfect experience. Also, if you time it right, you might get to see an amazing show in the sky (aka sunset).
It’s 1km downhill from the Cristal Azul boutique hotel (it has the same owners).
Pizza TreePIZZA$$
(%2655-8063; pizzas US$9-12; hnoon-10pm; pv)
If there is anything more fun than eating pizza in a tree house, we’re not sure what it is. Take a seat at the top of this ramshackle, Seuss-like structure and feast on thin-crust pizzas and focaccia from the wood-fired brick oven. The owner is Italian but the concept is purely Tico. Situated 2km northeast of San Miguel beach.
El BarcoINTERNATIONAL$$
(%2655-1003; www.el-barco-costarica.com; mains US$12-16; h11:30am-9pm Wed-Mon; Wv)
It looks like a boat, but it’s actually a building, facing a sweet slice of sand on Playa Coyote (close to the ‘T’ intersection at the beach). Hokey, perhaps, but there’s nothing gimmicky about the delicious and nutritious creations coming out of the kitchen. Fresh salads, hearty sandwiches and more substantial pasta and rice dishes will keep you sated.
8Getting There & Away
You can reach these beach towns by bus, but they are rather remote with minimal facilities, so you may feel stranded if you don’t have your own vehicle. If your plans are limited to lounging on a deserted beach, you should be OK.
Transportes Arsa (%2650-0179; www.transportesarsa.com) has two daily buses from San José that take about four hours to reach the beach (optimistically). The buses depart San José at 6am and 3:30pm. Return buses leave Bejuco at 2am, 3:45am and 1pm, passing through San Miguel and Coyote a half-hour or an hour later. This service is sketchy in the rainy season and the trip may take longer if road conditions are bad.