Soap can be made with less precision than the following formulas suggest, but the beginning soapmaker should start out being exact. Experimentation and study will eventually allow for creative license.
Soaps made with a high percentage of beef tallow (half of the total amount of fats and oils in a formula) can be made with a wider range of temperatures than vegetable oil soaps. But, soaps made using only vegetable oils, or even those which are mostly vegetable oils incorporating a small percentage of tallow or lard, should be made at close to 80°F (27°C).
Personal preference may eventually lead you toward 90° to 95°F (32° to 35°C), but even a 15-degree increase creates a whole new set of challenges. All-vegetable oil mixtures can take much longer to saponify at temperatures between 95° and 105°F (35° and 41°C); they may curdle between 100 and 140 degrees (38° and 60°C), even with regular stirring; the lye can precipitate out of solution into solid little pearl-like pieces which wind up as solid lye in the final bars; vegetable soaps are more vulnerable to rancidity when they are produced at higher temperatures; and temperatures below 75°F (24°C) and above 95°F (35°C) produce a mixture which overreacts to scent.
A NOTE ON TEMPERATURE
The processing temperature affects the length of time it takes for soap to saponify. I recommend a processing temperature of 80°F (27°C). In my experience, as the temperature climbs from 80°F to 100°F (38°C), the processing time increases by ten to thirty minutes. Above 110°F (43°C), the processing time speeds up again, but the soap becomes less desirable.
For the first year in business, I made vegetable soaps (from olive oil, coconut oil, and vegetable shortening) very differently than I do today. I used much less sodium hydroxide than the recipes called for, leaving a much higher percentage of unsaponified oil in the final bars. The soaps were more vulnerable to early rancidity, but they could be made slowly over a sixteen to twenty-four hour period, allowing for a very leisurely process. I brought both the lye solution and the oils to 95° to 100°F (35° to 38°C), combined the two, and then stirred down the oils into the mixture every so often, as they separated like oil and vinegar. At bedtime, I could just cover the pan, go to bed, and stir down the oils in the morning.
This process allowed me some flexibility, but it does not work well with palm oil, tallow, or a pomace olive oil, which speed up the soapmaking process, and ultimately I decided to choose the hard bars produced by palm oil over the leisurely soapmaking process.
You, too, will probably change formulas over the years, as half the fun and the challenge involves some experimentation. Read all you can to understand soapmaking fundamentals, but then take off in your own direction.
The fourteen recipes in this chapter can be used to create dozens of other recipes using the various nutrients described in chapter 6. Read about the nutrients and their skin-care qualities, then design your own soap formulas which best suit your particular needs.
Step 1: Set up the soapmaking equipment, including scales, a soapmaking pan, a saucepan, thermometers, a glass bowl, and ingredients. Measure out the essential oils, preservative, and extra nutrients; set aside in separate containers.
Step 2: Line the soapmaking trays with heavy-duty waxed paper, keeping the paper 1 inch from the top of the trays on all sides. Mitre the corners, one at a time, by pushing your forefinger along the paper and pressing deeply into the corners, using your other hand to keep the rest of the paper flat and in place.
Gather the excess paper in the corners inward to form flat hospital corners. Flatten the folds perfectly flush against the frame and secure with masking tape, from the bottom corner out diagonally to the exposed area of the frame. Tape the edges of the paper to the box at intervals to keep the paper flat against the frames, without waves and wrinkles, and to prevent forming soaps with rounded edges and wavy bottoms. Do this now — you won’t have time later as things speed up.
Step 3: Put on safety goggles and gloves.
Step 4: Weigh out the sodium hydroxide and set aside, away from the work area.
Step 5: Set a 2-quart glass container on the scale; weigh out required amount of water.
Step 6: Carefully add the sodium hydroxide to the glass container of water, stirring briskly with a rubber spatula until it is completely dissolved.
Step 7: Place the 8 to 12-quart soapmaking pan on the scale. Add the required weights of the liquid soapmaking oils that are to be included at the start of the soapmaking process. Set aside.
Step 8: Place the 3-quart saucepan on the scale and weigh out the solid fats that are to be melted before being added to the liquid oils. Set aside.
Step 9: Wearing goggles and gloves, slowly drizzle the lye into the oils, stirring the mixture briskly.
Step 10: Continue to stir briskly, circling the pan and cutting through the middle of the pan with your spatula to keep as much of the solution as possible in constant motion.
Once a small amount of soap drizzled across the surface leaves a trace pattern before sinking back into the mass, the soap is ready.
Step 11: Incorporate desired nutrients and essential oils to scent the soap, stirring swiftly and thoroughly with the spatula, without beating the mixture.
Step 12: Once the oils are evenly distributed and the soap mixture is uniform in appearance, quickly pour the soap into the frame, moving from one end of the frame to the other to evenly distribute the soap within the frame for uniform bars. Don’t scrape any residue from the sides of the pan.
Step 13: Cover the filled soap frame with another empty frame (or a piece of plywood or heavy cardboard); cover with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for eighteen to twenty-four hours.
Step 14: Using rulers and a paring knife, lightly mark lines for cutting the mass into bars (do not cut all the way through). Once you are satisfied the lines are straight and uniform, cut through lengthwise and cross-wise to the bottom of the frame.
Step 15: Carefully peel the bars from the paper. Slice a thin sliver off the top of each to remove the powdery white soda ash, and trim any uneven edges.
Step 16: Lay the bars in a single layer on plain brown paper grocery bags, or wicker or rattan placemats.
Makes approximately 40 (4-ounce) bars
This is the bar my customers request most often. Olive oil is the primary oil used, leaving the soap with a moisturizing sheen once introduced to water. The coconut oil offers a gentle, non-foamy lather and the palm oil makes the bars hard. As you bathe, take the time to flip the bar through your hands a few times to feel the oils and the silky texture. It’s quite a contrast to the rough synthetic texture of so many industrially prepared soaps.
This soap combines the very best of soapmaking attributes offered by vegetable oils at an affordable cost. Add your favorite nutrients for even greater skin-care benefit, if desired (see chapter 6, “Nutrients”).
3 pounds cold distilled water (does not need to be refrigerated)
473 grams sodium hydroxide
4 pounds (1.81 kg) olive oil
2 pounds 8 ounces (1.13 kg) coconut oil
1 pound 8 ounces (680 g) palm oil
30 grams grapefruit seed extract (natural preservative), optional
45–50 grams (approximately 15–18 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
Extra nutrients (see chapter 6), optional
PREPARING YOUR WORK AREA
1. Before beginning, read chapter 8 and set up your work area and required equipment.
2. Line your mold — a wooden tray or heavy cardboard box (see page 78) — with heavy-duty waxed freezer paper. Be sure to mitre the corners and flatten the paper against the sides of the box. Use masking tape to secure the paper to the box without waves and wrinkles.
3. Measure out the essential oil, preservative, and extra nutrients, and set aside in tightly sealed containers.
MIXING THE KEY INGREDIENTS
4. Put on goggles and gloves. Weigh out the sodium hydroxide and set aside.
5. Set the glass container on the scale and add the distilled water; remove from scale. Carefully add the sodium hydroxide while stirring briskly with a rubber spatula. The fumes will overwhelm you after about ten seconds, so hold your breath while stirring, then leave the room for fresh air. Return after two to three minutes to finish dissolving the sodium hydroxide.
The reaction will heat the lye solution to over 200°F (94°C), so set the bowl aside in a safe place to cool down to 80°F (27°C). If you plan to cool the lye overnight, cover the container tightly to avoid a weakened solution.
6. While the lye is cooling, you can begin mixing the oils. Set the soapmaking pan on the scale and add the olive oil. Then set the 3-quart saucepan on the scale and add the coconut and palm oils. Place pan with the coconut and the palm oils over low heat until most of the solid pieces have melted. The few remaining chunks will melt from the heat in the pan. Pour the heated oils into the olive oil. Should you choose to use a natural preservative, add the grapefruit seed extract to the warm fats and oils, incorporating thoroughly. Let cool to 80°F (27°C).
MAKING THE SOAP
7. You are ready to make soap when the oils and the lye solution have both cooled to 80°F (27°C). If you have cooled the lye overnight and the temperature drops below this point, heat it up by setting the container in a sinkful of hot water. Oils can be heated over low heat on the stove for a short time, if necessary. Remove the pan from the stove once the oils reach 76°F (24°C); the heat in the pan will raise it to 80°F (27°C).
8. Wearing goggles and gloves, slowly drizzle the lye into the oils, stirring briskly as you pour. Continue to stir, circling the edges of the pan and cutting through the middle of the pan to keep as much of the solution as possible in constant motion. Do not beat or whip the mixture, but stir briskly throughout the entire soapmaking process. Do not scrape any residue off the sides of the pan. Once a small amount of soap drizzled across the solution’s surface leaves a faint pattern before sinking back into the mass, the soap is ready for the essential oils and nutrients, if desired. This may be from seven to forty minutes, depending upon the variety of olive oil used. (See page 22.) Do not wait until the soap is thick enough for a pattern to remain on the surface, or the soap will harden too quickly once the essential oils are added; yet, be sure that all oils on the surface have been incorporated, leaving a uniform mixture.
9. Incorporate any desired nutrients, and then immediately drizzle in the essential oils to scent the soap, stirring swiftly and thoroughly with a spatula without beating. Stir for twenty to thirty seconds, or as little time as needed to fully incorporate the essential oils. Too much stirring causes streaking and seizing (a quick setup which makes it hard if not impossible to pour the soap into the frames). Pure essential oils are usually more cooperative. Synthetic fragrance oils are more likely to streak and seize.
POURING INTO THE MOLD
10. Once the oils are evenly distributed, quickly pour the soap into the frame without scraping the residue off the sides of the pan. The mixture should be smooth, with no lumps and uniform texture and color. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution that will result in pockets of solid lye in the final bars. Try to pour evenly from one end of the frame to the other for uniform bars. If you see a change in texture, stop pouring.
If the last bit of soap mixture at the bottom of the pan is watery and uneven, the stirring process was not quite complete. Do not pollute the rest of your batch by adding this unsaponified portion.
If your first attempt at pouring into the mold is not quick enough and the mixture begins to set unevenly, use a spatula to spread it out to the corners. Keep in mind that the soaps can be trimmed smoothly once the bars are ready to be cut. When this recipe is followed carefully, it is unlikely you will encounter this problem.
CURING AND CUTTING THE BARS
11. Cover the filled frame with another frame, a piece of plywood, or a piece of heavy cardboard; cover with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for eighteen to twenty-four hours. This period is critical, as the insulation allows the soap to heat up and complete the soapmaking process.
12. Uncover the frame and set away from drafts and cold temperatures for one to seven days, or until the soaps are firm enough to cut. Do not wait until they are rock hard.
13. Using rulers and a paring knife, lightly mark the mass into bars, being careful not to cut through. Once the bar marks look straight and uniform, cut lengthwise and cross-wise through to the bottom of the frame. Holding the sides of the waxed paper, lift the entire layer of soaps out of the frame. Carefully peel the bars from the paper, then slice a thin sliver off of the top of each one to remove the powdery white soda ash.* Also trim away any uneven edges.
14. Lay the soaps, in a single layer, on plain brown paper grocery bags, or wicker or rattan placemats. Do not use bags imprinted with ink, as the bars are still alkaline and will pick up the dye. Set the soaps in a dry, well ventilated room, protected from temperature extremes.
15. Allow the soaps to cure for four to six weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other sides. This is an important period, as the soaps become harder and milder. Wrap as you’d like, preferably in a breathable material.
*When sodium hydroxide is exposed to the air, it absorbs water and carbon dioxide to form sodium carbonate, NaCO3. This grayish white powder settles on the top of the soaps as they cure and should be sliced off while trimming the bars. It is not as harsh as sodium hydroxide, but it is drying and irritating to the skin.
for normal to oily hair Makes approximately 40 (4-ounce) bars
Synthetics have intruded upon all areas of our lives — we need only to read the back of our shampoo bottle for an example. We’ve learned to carefully examine the list of ingredients on food packages, and yet we don’t apply the same scrutiny to personal care products, which are also absorbed into our bodies’ systems.
This shampoo bar is solid and can replace liquid shampoo and conditioners. The castor and coconut oils make a rich, thick lather, and the other oils and nutrients clean and condition the hair and scalp.
To use, rub the shampoo bar back and forth across the top of the head to work up a nice lather, then distribute the shampoo throughout the hair. Choose a special soap dish for your shampoo bar to distinguish it from body soaps, even though this bar could certainly be used to clean the body as well.
3 pounds (1.36 kg) cold, distilled water (does not need to be refrigerated)
510 grams sodium hydroxide
2 pounds 13 ounces (1.28 kg) olive oil
2 pounds 4 ounces (1.02 kg) castor oil
4 ounces (113 g) jojoba oil
2 pounds 4 ounces (1.02 kg) coconut oil
2 ounces (57 g) each of the following nutrients (optional*): shea butter, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil
30 grams grapefruit seed extract (natural preservative), optional
Extra nutrients (added toward the end of the soapmaking process — see chapter 6), optional
45–50 grams (approximately 15–18 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
*If you are not using these nutrients, increase the 4 ounces of jojoba oil to 8 ounces, and the amount of olive oil to 3 pounds 1 ounce.
Note: This formula calls for more sodium hydroxide than the SAP value charts suggest. See chapter 2, Castor Oil, for a detailed explanation.
PREPARING THE WORK AREA
1. Before beginning, read chapter 8 and set up your work area and required equipment.
2. Line your mold — a wooden tray or heavy cardboard box (see page 78) — with heavy-duty waxed freezer paper. Be sure to mitre the corners and flatten the paper against the sides of the box. Use masking tape to secure the paper to the box without waves and wrinkles.
3. Measure out the essential oil, preservative, and extra nutrients, and set aside in separate tightly sealed containers.
MIXING THE KEY INGREDIENTS
4. Put on goggles and gloves. Weigh out the sodium hydroxide and set aside.
5. Set the 2-quart glass container on the scale and add the distilled water; remove from scale. Carefully add the sodium hydroxide while stirring constantly and briskly with a rubber spatula. The fumes will overwhelm you after about ten seconds, so hold your breath while stirring, and then leave the room for fresh air. Return after two to three minutes to finish dissolving the sodium hydroxide. The reaction will heat the lye solution to over 200°F (93°C); set the bowl aside in a safe place to cool down to 80°F (27°C).
PREPARE YOUR OWN SHAMPOO RINSE
Any shampoo will eventually leave a residue build-up in the hair. Prepare a hair rinse using 1 part apple cider vinegar or lemon juice to 1 part water boiled and cooled. Add 15 to 25 drops of pure essential oil. Store in a spray bottle. Spray on hair after shampooing and rinsing well. Distribute well through the hair and scalp, then quickly rinse well with water.
6. While the sodium hydroxide solution is cooling, begin to mix the oils. Set the soapmaking pan on the scale and add the olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, and avocado oil. Set the 3-quart saucepan on the scale and add the coconut oil. Place saucepan over low heat until most of the solid pieces of coconut oil are melted. The few remaining chunks will melt from the heat in the pan. Take the saucepan off of the heat and add the shea butter to the melted coconut oil. As you stir, the heated oils will melt the shea butter. Pour the heated coconut oil mixture into the olive oil mixture. Should you choose to use a natural preservative, add grapefruit seed extract to the warm fats and oils, incorporating thoroughly.
MAKING THE SHAMPOO BARS
7. Once the lye is falling close to the 80°F (27°C) mark, check the temperature of the oils. If the lye temperature falls below 80°F (27°C), heat it by setting the container in a sinkful of hot water. To reheat oils dropping below 80°F (27°C), place on the stove over low heat for a short time. Remove pan when the temperature reaches 76°F (24°C); the heat in the pan will raise temperature to 80°F (27°C).
8. With both solutions at 80°F (27°C), wearing goggles and gloves, slowly drizzle the lye into the oils, stirring briskly as you pour. Continue to stir, circling the pan and cutting through the middle of the pan to keep as much of the solution as possible in constant motion. Do not beat or whip the mixture, but stir briskly throughout the entire soapmaking process. Do not scrape off any residue from the sides of the pan into the solution.
Depending upon the type of olive oil used (see page 22) the shampoo bars should “trace” within ten to forty minutes. Tracing is when a small amount of the mixture drizzled across the surface leaves a trace of its pattern before sinking back into the mass. Don’t wait for the shampoo mixture to be thick enough for the pattern to remain, or the mixture may set up too quickly when the scent is added; yet, be sure that all oils on the surface have been incorporated, leaving a uniform mixture.
9. Incorporate any desired nutrients, and then immediately drizzle in the essential oils, stirring swiftly and thoroughly with the spatula, without beating the mixture. The shampoo bar mixture will incorporate synthetic fragrances better than other soap, but pure essential oils are always a superior choice.
POURING INTO THE MOLD
10. Once the oils are distributed evenly and the mixture is uniform in appearance, quickly pour it into the frame; avoid scraping the residue off the sides of the pan. The mixture should be smooth, with no lumps and uniform texture and color. Try to pour from one end of the frame to the other to distribute the shampoo mixture evenly for uniform bars. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution and will result in pockets of solid lye in the final bars. If you see a change in texture, stop pouring.
If the last bit of mixture at the bottom of the pan is watery and not uniform, do not pollute the rest of your batch by adding this unsaponified portion.
If your first attempt at pouring into the mold is not quick enough, and the mixture begins to set unevenly, use a spatula to spread it out to the corners. Keep in mind that the shampoo bars can be trimmed smoothly once they are ready for cutting. If you follow this recipe carefully, you’re unlikely to encounter these troubles.
CURING AND CUTTING THE BARS
11. Cover the filled frame with another empty frame, a piece of plywood, or a piece of heavy cardboard; cover with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for eighteen to twenty-four hours. This insulation period is critical, allowing the bars to heat up and complete the process.
12. Uncover the frame and test the mass for firmness. These shampoo bars may be ready to cut soon after opening, for they harden very quickly, unless large quantities of citrus oils have been incorporated. If the bars are still soft, wait until they are firm to cut them into bars. First use a ruler and a paring knife to outline the lines for the bars, then, once satisfied with the look, slice all the way through to the bottom, lengthwise and across.
13. Holding the sides of the waxed paper, lift the mass of shampoo bars out of the frame. Carefully peel each bar from the paper, then slice a thin sliver off of the top to remove the powdery white soda ash. (Shampoo bars will not have as much soda ash as the other soaps.) Trim any uneven edges. Lay the bars in a single layer on plain brown paper grocery bags or wicker or rattan placemats. Do not use bags with ink, as the still-alkaline bars will pick up the dye.
14. Set in a dry, well ventilated room; do not expose to temperature extremes. Allow the shampoo bars to cure for four to six weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other side. They will harden and become mild during this period. Wrap as you’d like, preferably in a breathable material.
for normal to dry hair Makes approximately 40 (4-ounce) bars
This is my favorite shampoo bar. Less castor oil makes the soapmaking mixture less temperamental, and the bar itself is mild and moisturizing. Though more costly to make than the regular shampoo bar, this formula incorporates sweet almond oil and kukui nut oil, which are wonderful nutrients for the hair and scalp.
3 pounds cold, distilled water (does not need to be refrigerated)
500 grams sodium hydroxide
2 pounds (907 g) olive oil
1 pound 8 ounces (680 g) castor oil
8 ounces (227 g) sweet almond oil
4 ounces (113 g) jojoba oil
4 ounces (113 g) kukui nut oil
2 pounds (907 g) coconut oil
1 pound 8 ounces (680 g) palm oil
30 grams grapefruit seed extract (natural preservative), optional
Extra nutrients (see chapter 6), optional
45–50 grams (approximately 15–18 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
Note: This formula calls for more sodium hydroxide than the SAP value charts suggest. See chapter 2, Castor Oil, for a detailed explanation.
PREPARING THE WORK AREA
1. Before beginning read chapter 8 and set up your work area and equipment.
2. Line your mold — a wooden tray or heavy cardboard box (see page 78 for dimensions) — with heavy-duty waxed freezer paper. Be sure to mitre the corners and flatten the paper against the sides of the box. Use masking tape to secure the paper to the box without waves and wrinkles.
3. Measure out the essential oil, preservative, and extra nutrients; set aside in separate tightly sealed containers.
MIXING THE KEY INGREDIENTS
4. Put on goggles and gloves. Weigh out the sodium hydroxide and set aside.
5. Set the 2-quart glass container on the scale and add the distilled water; remove from scale. Carefully add the sodium hydroxide while stirring briskly with a rubber spatula. The fumes will overwhelm you after about ten seconds, so hold your breath while stirring, and then leave the room for fresh air. Return after two to three minutes to finish dissolving the sodium hydroxide. The reaction will heat the lye solution to over 200°F (93°C), so set the bowl aside in a safe place to cool down to 80°F (27°C).
6. While the sodium hydroxide mixture is cooling, begin mixing the oils. Set the soap pan on the scale and add the castor oil, sweet almond oil, jojoba oil, kukui nut oil, and olive oil. Then set the 3-quart saucepan on the scale and add the coconut and palm oils. Place saucepan over low heat until most of the pieces of coconut and palm oils have melted. The few remaining chunks will melt from the heat in the pan. Pour the heated oils into the soapmaking pan with the olive oil mixture. Should you choose to use a natural preservative, add grapefruit seed extract to the warm fats and oils, incorporating thoroughly. Set aside and allow the oils to cool to 80°F (27°C).
MAKING THE SHAMPOO BARS
7. Once both solutions have reached 80°F (27°C) the soap-making process can proceed. If you cool the lye overnight and the temperature drops below this, it can be reheated over low heat on a stove for a short period. Remove the pan from the stove when it reaches 76°F (24°C); the heat in the pan will raise the temperature to 80°F (27°C). Wearing goggles and gloves, slowly drizzle the lye into the oils, stirring briskly as you pour. Continue to stir, circling the pan and cutting through the middle to keep as much of the solution as possible in constant motion. Do not beat or whip the mixture, but stir briskly throughout the process. Don’t scrape off any residue from the sides of the pan into the solution.
Depending upon the type of olive oil used (see page 22) these shampoo bars should “trace” after ten to forty minutes. Tracing occurs when a small amount of the mixture drizzled across the surface leaves a trace of its pattern before sinking back into the mass. If oily puddles still cover the surface, continue stirring until they have been incorporated, leaving a uniform mixture.
8. Mix in any desired nutrients, and then immediately drizzle in the essential oils, stirring swiftly and thoroughly with the spatula, without beating the mixture. The shampoo bars will incorporate synthetic fragrances better than the soaps, but pure essential oils are always a superior choice.
POURING INTO THE MOLD
9. Once the oils are distributed evenly and the mixture appears uniform, quickly pour it into the frame without scraping the residue off the sides of the pan. The mixture should be smooth, with no lumps and uniform texture and color. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution and will result in pockets of solid lye within the final bars. Try to pour from one end of the frame to the other to evenly distribute the shampoo mixture within the frame for uniform bars. If you see a change in texture, stop pouring.
If the last bit of mixture at the bottom of the pan is watery and not uniform, do not pollute the rest of your batch by adding this unsaponified portion.
If your first attempt at pouring into the molds is not quick enough, and the mixture begins to set unevenly, use a spatula to spread it out to the corners. Keep in mind that the shampoo bars can be trimmed smoothly once they are ready to be cut. If you follow this recipe carefully, it’s unlikely you’ll encounter these troubles.
10. Cover the filled frame with another empty frame, a piece of plywood, or a piece of heavy cardboard; cover with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for eighteen to twenty-four hours. This insulation period is critical, allowing the bars to heat up and complete the process.
11. Uncover the frame and test the mass for firmness. These shampoo bars may require up to five to seven days to be sufficiently firm for cutting.
12. Once firm, cut into bars. First use a ruler and a paring knife to outline the bars, then once satisfied with the look, slice all the way through to the bottom, lengthwise and across. Holding the sides of the waxed paper, lift the mass of shampoo bars out of the frame. Carefully, peel the bars from the paper, then slice a thin sliver off of the top of each bar to remove the powdery white soda ash. (Shampoo bars will not have as much soda ash as the other soaps.) Also trim any uneven edges. Lay the bars, single-layer, on plain brown paper grocery bags or wicker or rattan placemats. Do not use bags with ink, as the still alkaline bars will pick up the dye. Set the bags in a dry, well-ventilated room, and do not expose the bars to temperature extremes.
13. Allow the shampoo bars to cure for four to six weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other sides. They become hard and mild during this period. Wrap as you’d like, preferably in a breathable material.
Makes approximately 40 (4-ounce) bars
I call this One-Stop Soap because all the ingredients can be bought in just one trip to a large supermarket. For a beginner who just wants to get started, without committing to many pounds of product, and without putting effort into tracking down ingredients, this recipe is just right. I made just this kind of bar for months in my early soapmaking days. Do keep in mind though, that you pay much higher prices per pound for ingredients bought in supermarket quantities.
One-Stop Soap, like the Soap Essentials Bar, is moisturizing, with that same silky feel. With lots of coconut oil and olive oil, it lathers beautifully and leaves the skin feeling smooth.
Be aware that these bars do not stay as hard as the Soap Essentials Bars do when introduced to water. Vegetable shortening makes a softer bar. This does not mean that the final bars will be soft. It simply means that the bars will take a few weeks longer to harden as they cure, and that once nice and hard, they should not be exposed to an excess of water. They will remain firm if the user keeps the bar away from the constant stream of the shower and places it in a protected soap dish after use. The soap will only get mushy if it goes undiscovered at the bottom of the bathtub for many minutes. Even if this happens, let it spend some time recuperating and hardening back up in the soapdish.
3 pounds (1.36 kg) cold, distilled water (does not need to be refrigerated)
469 
grams sodium hydroxide
3 pounds 8 ounces (1.59 kg) olive oil
2 pounds 8 ounces (1.13 kg) coconut oil
2 pounds (907 g) vegetable shortening
30 grams grapefruit seed extract (natural preservative), optional
Extra nutrients (see chapter 6), optional
45–50 grams (approximately 15–18 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
PREPARING THE WORK AREA
1. Before beginning, read chapter 8 and set up your work area and equipment.
2. Line your mold — a wooden tray or heavy cardboard box (see page 78 for dimensions) — with heavy-duty waxed freezer paper. Be sure to mitre the corners and flatten the paper against the sides of the box. Use masking tape to secure the paper to the box without waves and wrinkles.
3. Measure out the essential oil, preservative, and extra nutrients, and set aside in separate sealed containers.
4. Put on goggles and gloves. Weigh out the sodium hydroxide and set aside.
5. Set the 2-quart glass container on the scale and add the distilled water; remove from scale. Carefully add the sodium hydroxide while stirring briskly with a rubber spatula. The fumes will overwhelm you after about ten seconds, so hold your breath while stirring, and then leave the room for fresh air. Return after two to three minutes to finish dissolving the sodium hydroxide. The reaction will heat the lye solution to over 200°F (93°C), so set the bowl aside in a safe place to cool down to 80°F (27°C). If you plan to cool the lye overnight, cover the container tightly to avoid a weakened solution.
6. While the sodium hydroxide is cooling, begin mixing the oils. Set the soapmaking pan on the scale and add the olive oil. Then set the 3-quart saucepan on the scale and add the coconut oil and the vegetable shortening. Place saucepan over low heat until most of the solid pieces have melted. The few remaining chunks will melt from the heat in the pan. Pour the heated oils into the olive oil. Should you choose to use a natural preservative, add grapefruit seed extract to the warm fats and oils, mixing thoroughly. Let the oils cool to 80°F (27°C).
MAKING THE SOAP
7. You are ready to make soap when the oils and the lye solution both reach 80°F (27°C). If you have cooled the lye overnight and it drops below the desired temperature, heat up the lye by setting the container in a sinkful of hot water. Oils can be reheated over low heat on the stove for a short time. Remove from the stove once the temperature reaches 76°F (24°C); the heat in the pan will raise it to 80°F (27°C).
8. Wearing goggles and gloves, slowly drizzle the lye into the oils, stirring briskly as you pour. Continue to stir, circling the pan and cutting through the middle of the pan to keep as much of the solution as possible in constant motion. Do not beat or whip the mixture, but stir briskly throughout the process. Do not scrape any residue off the sides of the pan. This soap should be ready for essential oils within seven to forty minutes, depending on the variety of olive oil used. (Read about olive oil on page 22.)
Once a small amount of soap can be drizzled across the surface, leaving a trace of that pattern before sinking back into the mass, the soap is ready. Do not wait until the soap is thick enough for a trace to remain on the surface, or the soap will harden too quickly once the essential oils are added; yet, be sure that all oils on the surface have been incorporated, leaving a uniform mixture.
9. Incorporate any desired nutrients, and then immediately drizzle in the essential oils to scent the soaps, stirring swiftly and thoroughly with the spatula, without beating the mixture. Stir for 20 to 30 seconds, or for as little time as needed to fully incorporate the essential oils. Too much stirring causes streaking and seizing (a quick setup which makes it hard if not impossible to pour the soap into the frames). Use pure essential oils for a uniform incorporation of product; synthetic fragrance oils are more likely to streak and seize.
POURING INTO THE MOLD
10. Once the oils are distributed evenly and the soap mixture is uniform in appearance, quickly pour the soap into the frame without scraping the residue off the sides of the pan. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution and will result in pockets of solid lye within the final bars. The mixture should be smooth, with no lumps and uniform texture and color. Try to pour from one end of the frame to the other to evenly distribute the soap within the frame for uniform bars. Stop pouring, should you see a change in texture.
If the last bit of soap mixture at the bottom of the pan is watery and not uniform, the stirring process was not quite complete. Do not pollute the rest of your batch by adding this unsaponified portion. Better to leave it out.
If your first attempt at pouring into the molds is not quick enough, and the mixture begins to set unevenly, use a spatula to spread it out to the corners. Keep in mind that the soaps can be trimmed smoothly once the bars are ready to be cut. When this recipe is carefully followed, it is unlikely that you will encounter these troubles. Cover the frame with another frame, a piece of plywood, or a piece of heavy cardboard, then finally with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for eighteen to twenty-four hours. This period is critical, as the insulation allows the soap to heat up and complete the soapmaking process.
CURING AND CUTTING THE BARS
11. Uncover the frame and set away from drafts and cold temperatures for one to seven days, or until the soaps are firm enough to cut. Do not wait until they are rock hard.
12. Using rulers and a paring knife, lightly (do not cut all the way through) mark the mass into bars. Once the bars seem straight and uniform, cut lengthwise and crosswise through to the bottom of the frame. Holding the sides of the waxed paper, lift the soaps out of the frame. Carefully peel the soaps from the paper, then slice a thin sliver off of the top of each bar to remove the powdery white soda ash (see asterisk following the Soap Essentials Bar recipe). Also trim any uneven edges.
13. Lay the soaps, in a single layer, on plain brown paper grocery bags, or wicker or rattan placemats. Do not use bags imprinted with ink, as the bars are still alkaline and will pick up the dye. Set the bags in a dry, well ventilated room, and do not expose the soaps to temperature extremes.
14. Allow the soaps to continue to cure for four to six weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other sides. This is an important period, as the soaps become harder and more mild. Wrap as you’d like, preferably in a breathable material.
Makes approximately 40 (4-ounce) bars
These are the “sterling” of soap bars, packed with some of the most effective nutrients and oils known to soapmaking. The ingredients are expensive, so I consider Gourmet Bars more of an indulgence than part of a routine. But for those friends or strangers you’d like to spoil once in a while, here is a suggestion. Do save a few bars for yourself.
These must be experienced to appreciate.
3 pounds cold, distilled water (does not need to be refrigerated)
475 grams sodium hydroxide
2 pounds (907 g) olive oil
½ pound (227 g) sweet almond oil
½ pound (227 g) apricot kernel oil
½ pound (227 g) kukui nut oil
½ pound (227 g) jojoba oil
2 pounds 8 ounces (1.13 kg) coconut oil
1 pound 8 ounces (680 g) palm oil
4 ounces (113 g) shea butter (also known as African karite butter)
30 grams grapefruit seed extract (natural preservative), optional
Extra nutrients (see chapter 6), optional
45–50 grams (approximately 15–18 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
PREPARING THE WORK AREA
1. Before beginning, read chapter 8 and set up your work area and equipment.
2. Line your mold — a wooden tray or heavy cardboard box (see page 78 for dimensions) — with heavy-duty waxed freezer paper. Be sure to mitre the corners and flatten the paper against the sides of the box. Use masking tape to secure the paper to the box without waves and wrinkles.
3. Measure out the essential oil, preservative, and extra nutrients, and set aside in separate tightly sealed containers.
MIXING THE KEY INGREDIENTS
4. Put on goggles and gloves. Weigh out the sodium hydroxide and set aside.
5. Set the 2-quart glass container on the scale and add the distilled water; remove from scale. Carefully add the sodium hydroxide while stirring briskly with a rubber spatula. The fumes will overwhelm you after about ten seconds, so hold your breath while stirring, and then leave the room for fresh air. Return after two to three minutes to finish dissolving the sodium hydroxide. The reaction will heat the lye solution to over 200°F (93°C), so set the bowl aside in a safe place to cool down to 80°F (27°C). If you plan to cool the lye overnight, cover the container tightly to avoid a weakened solution.
6. While the sodium hydroxide mixture is cooling, begin mixing the oils. Set the soapmaking pan on the scale and add the olive oil, sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, kukui nut oil, and jojoba oil. Then set the 3-quart saucepan on the scale and add the coconut oil, palm oil, and shea butter. Place saucepan over low heat until most of the solid pieces have melted. The few remaining chunks will melt from the heat within the pan. Pour the heated oils into the olive oil mixture. Should you choose to use a natural preservative, add grapefruit seed extract to the warm fats and oils, mixing thoroughly. Let the oils cool to 80°F (27°C).
MAKING THE SOAP
7. You are ready to make soap when the oils and the lye solution both reach 80°F (27°C). If you have cooled the lye overnight and the temperature drops below the desired degrees, heat up the lye by setting the container in a sinkful of hot water. Oils can be reheated over low heat on the stove for a short time. Remove pan from heat when temperature reaches 76°F (24°C); heat in pan will raise it to 80°F (27°C).
8. Wearing goggles and gloves, slowly drizzle the lye into the oils, stirring briskly as you pour. Continue to stir, circling the pan and cutting through the middle of the pan to keep as much of the solution as possible in constant motion. Do not beat or whip the mixture, but stir briskly throughout the process. Don’t scrape any residue off the sides of the pan. This soap should be ready for essential oils within seven to forty minutes.
Once a small amount of soap can be drizzled across the surface, leaving a trace of that pattern before sinking back into the mass, the soap is ready. Do not wait until the soap is thick enough for a trace to remain on the surface, or the soap will harden too quickly once the essential oils are added; yet, be sure that all oils on the surface have been incorporated, leaving a uniform mixture.
9. Incorporate any desired nutrients, and then immediately drizzle in the essential oils to scent the soaps, stirring swiftly and thoroughly with the spatula, without beating the mixture. Stir for twenty to thirty seconds, or for as little time as needed to fully incorporate the essential oils. Too much stirring causes streaking and seizing (a quick setup which makes it hard if not impossible to pour the soap into the frames). Use pure essential oils to scent these gourmet bars. The ingredients are far too costly and pure to pollute the batch with a final splash of synthetic fragrance.
POURING INTO THE MOLD
10. Once the oils are evenly distributed and the soap mixture is uniform in appearance, quickly pour the soap into the frame without scraping the residue off the sides of the pan. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution and will result in pockets of solid lye within the final bars. The mixture should be smooth, with no lumps and uniform texture and color. Try to pour from one end of the frame to the other to evenly distribute the soap within the frame for uniform bars. Stop pouring, should you see a change in texture.
If the last bit of soap mixture at the bottom of the pan is watery and not uniform, the stirring process was not quite complete. Do not pollute the rest of your batch by adding this unsaponified portion. Better to leave it out.
If your first attempt is not quick enough, and the mixture begins to set unevenly, use a spatula to spread it out to the corners. Keep in mind that the soaps can be trimmed smoothly once the bars are ready to be cut. Cover the frame with another frame, a piece of plywood, or a piece of heavy cardboard, then finally with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for eighteen to twenty-four hours. This period is critical, as the insulation allows the soap to heat up and complete the soapmaking process.
CURING AND CUTTING THE BARS
11. Uncover the frame and set away from drafts and cold temperatures for one to seven days, or until the soaps are firm enough to cut. Do not wait until they are rock hard.
12. Using rulers and a paring knife, lightly (do not cut all the way through) mark the mass into bars. Once the bars seem straight and uniform, cut lengthwise and crosswise through to the bottom of the frame. Holding the sides of the waxed paper, lift the soaps out of the frame. Carefully peel the soaps from the paper, then slice a thin sliver off of the top of each bar to remove the powdery white soda ash (see asterisk following the Soap Essentials Bar recipe on page 94). Also trim any uneven edges.
13. Lay the soaps, in a single layer, on plain brown paper grocery bags, or wicker or rattan placemats. Do not use bags imprinted with ink, as the bars are still alkaline and will pick up the dye. Set the bags in a dry, well ventilated room, and do not expose the soaps to temperature extremes.
14. Allow the soaps to continue to cure for four to six weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other sides. This is an important period, as the soaps become harder and more mild. Wrap as you’d like, preferably in a breathable material.
Makes approximately 40 (4-ounce) bars
This bar offers all of the qualities of the Soap Essentials Bar, plus the extra moisturizing quality of goat milk. I add only enough goat milk to affect the blend, for too much makes the soap more vulnerable to premature rancidity.
Though the inclusion of goat milk involves a bit more precision and fussing, it is fun to experiment with other recipes. I love to scent these bars with one of the sassafras blends. This soap is homey and fresh.
2½ pounds (1.13 kg) cold, distilled water (does not need to be refrigerated)
473 grams sodium hydroxide
4 pounds (1.81 kg) olive oil
2 pounds 8 ounces (1.13 kg) coconut oil
1 pound 8 ounces (680 g) palm oil
30 grams grapefruit seed extract (natural preservative), optional
2 
grams tocopherol (natural preservative), optional ½ pound (227 g) cold goat milk
Extra nutrients (see chapter 6), optional
45–50 grams (approximately 15–18 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
PREPARING THE WORK AREA
1. Before beginning, read chapter 8 and set up your work area and equipment.
2. Line your mold — a wooden tray or heavy cardboard box (see page 78 for dimensions) — with heavy-duty waxed freezer paper. Be sure to mitre the corners and flatten the paper against the sides of the box. Use masking tape to secure the paper to the box without waves and wrinkles.
3. Measure out the essential oil, preservatives, and extra nutrients, and set aside in separate tightly sealed containers.
MIXING THE KEY INGREDIENTS
4. Put on goggles and gloves. Weigh out the sodium hydroxide and set aside.
5. Set the 2-quart glass container on the scale and add the distilled water; remove from scale. Carefully add the sodium hydroxide while stirring briskly with a rubber spatula. The fumes will overwhelm you after about ten seconds, so hold your breath while stirring, and then leave the room for fresh air. Return after two to three minutes to finish dissolving the sodium hydroxide. The reaction will heat the lye solution to over 200°F (93°C), so set the bowl aside in a safe place to cool down to 80°F (27°C).
6. While the sodium hydroxide solution cools, begin mixing the oils. Set the soapmaking pan on the scale and add the olive oil. Then set the 3-quart saucepan on the scale and add the coconut and the palm oils. Place saucepan over low heat until most of the solid pieces of the oils have melted. The few remaining chunks will melt from the heat within the pan. Pour the heated oils into the olive oil. Should you choose to use natural preservatives (see chapter 7), add the grapefruit seed extract and the tocopherol to the warm fats and oils, mixing thoroughly. Let the oils cool to 80°F (27°C).
7. As the lye solution approaches 80°F (27°C), gently heat the goat milk to 80°F (27°C), stirring gently and constantly. At this time, be sure that the oils are at 80°F (27°C), so the oils will be ready and waiting. If they are too cool, heat the pan over very low heat, removing the pan from the stove when the oils reach 76°F (24°C). (The heat of the oils will bring the solution to the 80°F (27°C) mark.)
8. Now add the lye solution to the goat milk, drizzling the lye in slowly and stirring the mixture briskly to avoid curdling. Combining the lye with the milk may cause the mixture to heat up by a few degrees, though probably no higher than 84° to 85°F (29°C).
9. Wearing goggles and gloves, slowly drizzle the lye/goat milk solution into the oils, stirring briskly as you pour. Continue to stir, circling the pan and cutting through the middle of the pan to keep as much of the solution as possible in constant motion. Do not beat or whip the mixture, but stir briskly throughout the entire process. Don’t scrape any residue off the sides of the pan. This soap may be slightly grainy, and will take anywhere from ten to forty minutes to saponify, depending on the variety of olive oil used and upon how closely the temperatures have been followed. (Read about olive oil on page 22.)
Once a small amount of soap can be drizzled across the surface, leaving a trace of that pattern before sinking back into the mass, the soap is ready for essential oils. And yet, be sure that all oils on the surface have been incorporated, leaving a uniform mixture.
10. Incorporate any desired nutrients, and then immediately drizzle in the essential oils to scent the soaps, stirring swiftly and thoroughly with the spatula, without beating the mixture. Stir for twenty to thirty seconds, or as little time as needed to fully incorporate the essential oils. Too much stirring causes streaking and seizing (a quick setup which makes it hard if not impossible to pour the soap into the frames). Use pure essential oils for a uniform incorporation of product; synthetic fragrance oils are more likely to streak and seize.
11. Quickly pour the soap into the frame without scraping the residue off the sides of the pan. The mixture should be nice and uniform. Try to pour from one end of the frame to the other to evenly distribute the soap within the frame for uniform bars. If your first attempt is not quick enough, and the mixture begins to set unevenly, use a spatula to spread it out to the corners. Keep in mind that the soaps can be trimmed smoothly once the bars are ready to be cut.
If the last bit of soap mixture at the bottom of the pan is watery and not uniform, the stirring process was not quite complete. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution and will result in pockets of solid lye within the final bars. Do not pollute the rest of your batch by adding this unsaponified portion. Better to leave it out.
CURING AND CUTTING THE BARS
12. Cover the frame with another frame, a piece of plywood, or a piece of heavy cardboard, then finally with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for eighteen to twenty-four hours. This period is critical, as the insulation allows the soap to heat up and complete the soapmaking process.
13. Uncover the frame and set away from drafts and cold temperatures for one to seven days, or until the soaps are firm enough to cut. Do not wait until they are rock hard.
14. Using rulers and a paring knife, lightly (do not cut all the way through) mark the mass into bars. Once the bars seem straight and uniform, cut lengthwise and crosswise through to the bottom of the frame. Holding the sides of the waxed paper, lift the soaps out of the frame. Carefully peel the soaps from the paper, then slice a thin sliver off of the top of each bar to remove the powdery white soda ash (see asterisk following the Soap Essentials Bar recipe on page 94). Also trim any uneven edges.
15. Lay the soaps, in a single layer, on plain brown paper grocery bags, or wicker or rattan placemats. Do not use bags imprinted with ink, as the bars are still alkaline and will pick up the dye. Set the bags in a dry, well ventilated room, and do not expose the soaps to temperature extremes.
16. Allow the soaps to continue to cure for four to six weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other sides. This is an important period, as the soaps become harder and more mild. Wrap as you’d like, preferably in a breathable material.
Makes approximately 40 (4-ounce) bars
Resist the temptation to color this soap an artificial shade of green. Avocado oil is a remarkable vegetable oil, one of the most gentle of all. People with sensitive skin usually respond well to this formula. It is superfatted, with some unsaponified avocado oil added just before pouring. Any superfatted soap is more prone to rancidity, but this bar is worth the shorter shelf life. Add the grapefruit seed oil for greater protection.
3 pounds (1.36 kg) cold, distilled water (does not need to be refrigerated)
470 grams sodium hydroxide
3 pounds (1.36 kg) avocado oil
1 pound (454 g) olive oil
2 pounds 8 ounces (1.13 kg) coconut oil
1 pound 8 ounces (680 g) palm oil
30 grams grapefruit seed extract (natural preservative), optional
2 tablespoons (30 ml) of additional avocado oil (add just before pouring soap into the frame)
Extra nutrients (see chapter 6), optional
45–50 grams (approximately 15–18 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
PREPARING THE WORK AREA
1. Before beginning, read chapter 8 and set up your work area and equipment.
2. Line your mold — a wooden tray or heavy cardboard box (see page 78 for dimensions) — with heavy-duty waxed freezer paper. Be sure to mitre the corners and flatten the paper against the sides of the box. Use masking tape to secure the paper to the box without waves and wrinkles.
3. Measure out the essential oil, preservative, and the extra nutrients (including the 2 additional tablespoons of avocado oil), and set aside in tightly sealed containers.
MIXING THE KEY INGREDIENTS
4. Put on goggles and gloves. Weigh out the sodium hydroxide and set aside.
5. Set the 2-quart glass container on the scale and add the distilled water; remove from scale. Carefully add the sodium hydroxide while stirring briskly with a rubber spatula. The fumes will overwhelm you after about ten seconds, so hold your breath while stirring, and then leave the room for fresh air. Return after two to three minutes to finish dissolving the sodium hydroxide. The reaction will heat the lye solution to over 200°F (93°C), so set the bowl aside in a safe place to cool down to 80°F (27°C). If you plan to cool the lye overnight, cover the container tightly to avoid a weakened solution.
6. While the sodium hydroxide mixture is cooling, begin mixing the oils. Set the soapmaking pan on the scale and add the avocado oil and the olive oil. Then set the 3-quart saucepan on the scale and add the coconut and palm oils. Place saucepan over low heat until most of the solid pieces have melted. The few remaining chunks will melt from the heat within the pan. Pour the heated oils into the olive oil. Should you choose to use a natural preservative, add grapefruit seed extract to the warm fats and oils, incorporating thoroughly. Let the oils cool to 80°F (27°C).
MAKING THE SOAP
7. You are ready to make soap when the oils and the lye solution both reach 80°F (27°C). If you have cooled the lye overnight and the temperature drops below the desired temperature, heat up the lye by setting the container in a sinkful of hot water. Oils can be reheated over low heat on the stove for a short time. Remove from stove once the oil reaches 76°F (24°C); the heat within the pan will raise the temperature to 80°F (27°C).
8. Wearing goggles and gloves, slowly drizzle the lye into the oils, stirring briskly as you pour. Continue to stir, circling the pan and cutting through the middle to keep as much of the solution as possible in constant motion. Do not beat or whip the mixture, but stir briskly throughout the process. Don’t scrape any residue off the sides of the pan. This soap should be ready for essential oils within seven to forty minutes, depending on the variety of olive oil used. (Read about olive oil on page 22.)
Once a small amount of soap can be drizzled across the surface, leaving a trace of that pattern before sinking back into the mass, the soap is ready. Do not wait until the soap is thick enough for a trace to remain on the surface, or the soap will harden too quickly once the essential oils are added; yet, be sure that all oils on the surface have been incorporated, leaving a uniform mixture.
9. Gently but thoroughly incorporate the two tablespoons of avocado oil. This extra oil will superfat the mixture further.
10. Immediately drizzle in the essential oils to scent the soap, stirring swiftly and thoroughly with the spatula, without beating the mixture. Stir for twenty to thirty seconds, or for as little time as needed to fully incorporate the essential oils. Too much stirring causes streaking and seizing (a quick setup which makes it hard if not impossible to pour the soap into the frames). Use pure essential oils for a uniform incorporation of product; synthetic fragrance oils are more likely to streak and seize.
POURING INTO THE MOLD
11. Once the oils are evenly distributed and the soap mixture is uniform in appearance, quickly pour the soap into the frame without scraping the residue off the sides of the pan. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution and will result in pockets of solid lye within the final bars. The mixture should be smooth, with no lumps and uniform texture and color. Try to pour from one end of the frame to the other to evenly distribute the soap within the frame for uniform bars. Stop pouring, should you see a change in texture.
If the last bit of soap mixture at the bottom of the pan is watery and not uniform, the stirring process was not quite complete. Do not pollute the rest of your batch by adding this unsaponified portion. Better to leave it out.
If your first attempt at pouring into the molds is not quick enough, and the mixture begins to set unevenly, use a spatula to spread it out to the corners. Keep in mind that the soaps can be trimmed smoothly once the bars are ready to be cut. When this recipe is carefully followed, it is unlikely that you will encounter these troubles. Cover the frame with another frame, a piece of plywood, or a piece of heavy cardboard, then finally with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for eighteen to twenty-four hours. This period is critical, as the insulation allows the soap to heat up and complete the soapmaking process.
CURING AND CUTTING THE BARS
12. Uncover the frame and set away from drafts and cold temperatures for one to seven days, or until the soaps are firm enough to cut. Do not wait until they are rock hard.
13. Using rulers and a paring knife, lightly (do not cut all the way through) mark the mass into bars. Once the bars seem straight and uniform, cut lengthwise and crosswise through to the bottom of the frame. Holding the sides of the waxed paper, lift the soaps out of the frame. Carefully peel the soaps from the paper, then slice a thin sliver off of the top of each bar to remove the powdery white soda ash (see asterisk following the Soap Essentials Bar recipe). Also trim any uneven edges.
14. Lay the soaps, in a single layer, on plain brown paper grocery bags, or wicker or rattan placemats. Do not use bags imprinted with ink, as the bars are still alkaline and will pick up the dye. Set the bags in a dry, well ventilated room, and do not expose the soaps to temperature extremes.
15. Allow the soaps to continue to cure for four to six weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other sides. This is an important period, as the soaps become harder and more mild. Wrap as you’d like, preferably in a breathable material.
Makes approximately 40 (4-ounce) bars
For those people who would like to compare vegetable soap to tallow soap, I’ve included a tallow formula. Of course, most soapmakers would not call this a tallow soap, since it only includes 18.75 percent tallow. But, considering tallow’s limitations with respect to skin care, it should only be used with beneficial oils.
I’ve included lots of olive oil for its moisturizing quality, and the coconut oil offers a nice lather. Avocado and sweet almond oils are gentle and effective nutrients. If necessary, an extra pound of olive oil can be substituted for the other more costly oils.
3 pounds (1.36 kg) cold, distilled water (does not need to be refrigerated)
472 grams sodium hydroxide
3 pounds (1.36 kg) olive oil
½ pound (227 g) avocado oil
2 pounds 8 ounces (1.13 kg) coconut oil
1 pound 8 ounces (680 g) rendered tallow
½ pound (227 g) sweet almond oil
30 grams grapefruit seed extract (natural preservative), optional
2 grams tocopherol (natural preservative), optional
Extra nutrients (see chapter 6), optional
45–50 grams (approximately 15–18 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
PREPARING THE WORK AREA
1. Before beginning, read chapter 8 and set up your work area and equipment.
2. Line your mold — a wooden tray or heavy cardboard box (see page 78 for dimensions) — with heavy-duty waxed freezer paper. Be sure to mitre the corners and flatten the paper against the sides of the box. Use masking tape to secure the paper to the box without waves and wrinkles.
3. Measure out the essential oil, preservatives, and extra nutrients and set aside in separate tightly sealed containers.
4. Put on goggles and gloves. Weigh out the sodium hydroxide and set aside.
5. Set the 2-quart glass container on the scale and add the distilled water; remove from scale. Carefully add the sodium hydroxide while stirring briskly with a rubber spatula. The fumes will overwhelm you after about ten seconds, so hold your breath while stirring, and then leave the room for fresh air. Return after two to three minutes to finish dissolving the sodium hydroxide. The reaction will heat the lye solution to over 200°F (93°C), so set the bowl aside in a safe place to cool down to 80°F (27°C). If you plan to cool the lye overnight, cover the container tightly to avoid a weakened solution.
6. While the sodium hydroxide mixture is cooling, begin mixing the oils. Set the soapmaking pan on the scale and add the olive, avocado, and sweet almond oils. Then set the 3-quart saucepan on the scale and add the coconut oil and the tallow. Place saucepan over low heat until most of the solid pieces have melted. The few remaining chunks will melt from the heat within the pan. Pour the heated oils into the olive oil mixture. Should you choose to use natural preservatives, add grapefruit seed extract and tocopherol to the warm fats and oils, mixing thoroughly. Let the oils cool to 80°F (27°C).
MAKING THE SOAP
7. You are ready to make soap when the oils and the lye solution both reach 80°F (27°C). If you have cooled the lye overnight and the temperature drops below the desired temperature, heat up the lye by setting the container in a sinkful of hot water. Oils can be reheated over low heat on the stove for a short time, if necessary. Remove from heat when it reaches 76°F (24°C); the heat in the pan will raise temperature to 80°F (27°C).
8. Wearing goggles and gloves, slowly drizzle the lye into the oils, stirring briskly as you pour. Continue to stir, circling the pan and cutting through the middle to keep as much of the solution as possible in constant motion. Do not beat or whip the mixture, but stir briskly throughout the process. Don’t scrape any residue off the sides of the pan. This soap should be ready for essential oils within seven to twenty minutes.
Once a small amount of soap can be drizzled across the surface, leaving a trace of that pattern before sinking back into the mass, the soap is ready. Do not wait until the soap is thick enough for a trace to remain on the surface, or the soap will harden too quickly once the essential oils are added; yet, be sure that all oils on the surface have been incorporated, leaving a uniform mixture.
9. Incorporate any desired nutrients, and then immediately drizzle in the essential oils to scent the soaps, stirring swiftly and thoroughly with the spatula, without beating the mixture. Stir for twenty to thirty seconds, or for as little time as needed to fully incorporate the essential oils. Too much stirring causes streaking and seizing (a quick setup which makes it hard if not impossible to pour the soap into the frames). Use pure essential oils for a uniform incorporation of product; synthetic fragrance oils are more likely to streak and seize.
POURING INTO THE MOLD
10. Once the oils are evenly distributed and the soap mixture is uniform in appearance, quickly pour the soap into the frame without scraping the residue off the sides of the pan. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution and will result in pockets of solid lye within the final bars. The mixture should be smooth, with no lumps and uniform texture and color. Try to pour from one end of the frame to the other to evenly distribute the soap within the frame for uniform bars. Stop pouring, should you see a change in texture.
If the last bit of soap mixture at the bottom of the pan is watery and not uniform, the stirring process was not quite complete. Do not pollute the rest of your batch by adding this unsaponified portion. Better to leave it out.
If your first attempt at pouring into the molds is not quick enough, and the mixture begins to set unevenly, use a spatula to spread it out to the corners. Keep in mind that the soaps can be trimmed smoothly once the bars are ready to be cut. When this recipe is carefully followed, it is unlikely that you will encounter these troubles.
11. Cover the frame with another frame, a piece of plywood, or a piece of heavy cardboard, then finally with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for eighteen to twenty-four hours. This period is critical, as the insulation allows the soap to heat up and complete the soapmaking process.
12. Uncover the frame and set away from drafts and cold temperatures for one to seven days, or until the soaps are firm enough to cut. Do not wait until they are rock hard.
13. Using rulers and a paring knife, lightly (do not cut all the way through) mark the mass into bars. Once the bars seem straight and uniform, cut lengthwise and crosswise through to the bottom of the frame. Holding the sides of the waxed paper, lift the soaps out of the frame. Carefully peel the soaps from the paper, then slice a thin sliver off of the top of each bar to remove the powdery white soda ash (see asterisk following the Soap Essentials Bar recipe on page 94). Also trim any uneven edges.
14. Lay the soaps, in a single layer, on plain brown paper grocery bags, or wicker or rattan placemats. Do not use bags imprinted with ink, as the bars are still alkaline and will pick up the dye. Set the bags in a dry, well ventilated room, and do not expose the soaps to temperature extremes.
15. Allow the soaps to cure for four to six weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other sides. This is an important period, as the soaps become harder and more mild. Wrap as you’d like, preferably in a breathable material.
Using any of the eight basic soap recipes on pages 91–118 as a foundation, you can design variations by incorporating one or more of the many soapmaking nutrients (see pages 58–67 for more on nutrients). Some nutrients are added at the end of the soapmaking process, but some, like the vitamin oils, are included from the start. For those that are added just before the pure essential oils, be sure that the soap has saponified before proceeding with these final touches.
Note that adding these rich nutrients at the end of the soap-making process makes a superfatted soap. Superfatted soap is mild and moisturizing (my preference!), but is likely to have a shorter shelf life. While testing new formulas, always follow the basic soapmaking instructions carefully.
The following suggestions may help trigger ideas for many other possibilities. Develop oil and nutrient combinations with specific skin-care needs in mind, or with no rhyme or reason. Just be sure to have fun playing with the combinations.
Additions:
½–1 cup (118–237 ml) finely ground oatmeal
4 tablespoons (59 ml) honey, slightly warmed
45 grams (approximately 15 teaspoons) essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
Before beginning, read about incorporating oatmeal and honey in chapter 6 (page 66).
Use your favorite basic soap recipe. Blend the finely ground oatmeal into the saponified soap mixture, stirring well to avoid clumps. Incorporate the slightly warmed honey into the mixture, and finally add pure essential oil if desired.
Additions:
½ cup (118 ml) finely ground calendula flowers
4 tablespoons (59 ml) calendula oil
45 grams (approximately 15 teaspoons) essential oil (see chapter 4), as desired
Begin preparing your favorite basic soap recipe. Once the soap has saponified, thoroughly incorporate the finely ground calendula flowers; gently blend in the calendula oil. Finally, add essential oil if desired. Replace up to 1 pound of your soap-making oils with calendula oil for greater benefit.
Additions:
5 teaspoons (25 ml) bitter almond oil
10 teaspoons (50 ml) lemon oil
½ cup (118 ml) finely ground almonds
2 tablespoons (30 ml) sweet almond oil
2 tablespoons (30 ml) kukui nut oil
In a small container, combine the bitter almond oil and lemon oil; cover these essential oils and set aside.
Prepare your favorite basic soap recipe. Once the soap has saponified, thoroughly incorporate the finely ground almonds. Gently blend in the sweet almond oil and kukui nut oil. Finally, add the essential oil mixture.
Additions:
5 teaspoons (25 ml) juniper berry oil
4 teaspoons (20 ml) red thyme oil
4 teaspoons (20 ml) lavender oil
2 teaspoons (10 ml) rosemary oil
½ cup (118 ml) cornmeal
4 tablespoons (59 ml) jojoba oil
In a small container, combine the juniper berry oil, red thyme oil, lavender oil, and rosemary oil. Cover these essential oils and set aside.
Prepare your favorite basic soap recipe. Just before pouring the saponified soap into frames, thoroughly blend the cornmeal into the soap mixture. Then add four tablespoons of jojoba oil, and blend well. Add the pure essential oil mixture immediately.
A SOAPMAKER’S STORY
Catherine Failor/Copra Soaps
Catherine Failor says, “The idea for the line of soaps I have now came as an epiphany. I know this might sound hokey, but I was walking through a room of my house, not even thinking about soap — hadn’t made any for a couple of years — when in a brilliant flash of color, I had a vision of my patterned soaps. With this vision came the understanding that these soaps would be my business. It was not a conscious thought or decision. It just was. Therefore, I never had to agonize or worry over the success or failure of my eventual business because it always had seemed like something that was meant to be.”
After a year of “sometimes excruciating trial and error,” Catherine perfected the method of casting patterned, all-vegetable soaps. She designed much of the cutting equipment herself, using pneumatic presses to push slabs of soap through differently shaped cutters.
Copra Soaps are striking — each bar looks like a piece of modern art. Some are striped, others are patterned with stars, circles, triangles, and trapezoids. The colors (created with synthetic dyes) are bright and contrasting: red and white on black; jade on purple; yellow on turqoise; alternating stripes of the rainbow.
For two and a half years, Catherine worked out of her basement, but Copra Soaps grew quickly, and she now has a 3,500 square foot shop with four to six people working with her, depending upon the season. The soap is mixed in 100-gallon, stainless steel containers, 700 to 800 pounds at a time. Catherine studied turn-of-the-century soapmaking books and found a design for soap molds which hold around 350 pounds of soap.
Copra Soaps’ location is a soapmaker’s dream — just a mile from the port of Portland, Oregon, where tankers from Malaysia bring in tropical oils. “It’s a great setup,” says Catherine. “I bring my empty drums in for refilling and just truck them back to my shop.”
Catherine Failor is a reminder to us all to do more than just imitate what we’ve already seen — to let our soaps reflect a piece of ourselves.
Additions:
2 tablespoons (30 ml) borage oil
2 tablespoons (30 ml) kukui nut oil
45 grams (approximately 15 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
Prepare your favorite basic soap recipe. Just before pouring the saponified soap into frames, thoroughly incorporate the borage oil and kukui nut oil (you may substitute evening primrose oil for the borage oil). Add pure essential oil if desired. Replace up to 1 pound of your soapmaking oils with borage oil for greater benefit.
Additions:
2 tablespoons (30 ml) wheat germ oil
2 tablespoons (30 ml) carrot seed oil
2 tablespoons (30 ml) carrot root oil
2 tablespoons (30 ml) vitamin E oil
4 tablespoons (59 ml) avocado oil
45–50 grams (approximately 15–18 teaspoons) pure essential oil (see chapter 4), optional
Prepare your favorite basic soap recipe. Replace ½ cup of the olive oil with 2 tablespoons each of wheatgerm oil, carrot seed oil, carrot root oil, and vitamin E oil. (You may increase the quantity of one of these oils to substitute for another you don’t have on hand.) These vitamin oils are added along with the other soapmaking oils at the beginning of the soapmaking process.
Once the soap has saponified, add the avocado oil and pure essential oil, if desired, blending thoroughly before pouring the soap into frames.
