SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS, GREAT BRITAIN
Scottish Highlands, Great Britain
The hills, glens and wild coastline of Scotland’s Highlands are the ultimate escape – one of the last corners of Europe where you can discover genuine solitude. Here the landscape is at its grandest, with soaring hills of rock and heather bounded by wooded glens and rushing waterfalls.
Aviemore, Glen Coe and Fort William draw hill walkers and climbers in summer, and skiers, snowboarders and ice climbers in winter. Inverness, the Highland capital, provides urban rest and relaxation, while nearby Loch Ness and its elusive monster add a hint of mystery.
Two Days in the Scottish Highlands
On day one, explore the sights east of Inverness, including Culloden battlefield and Cawdor Castle. On day two it’s time to go Loch Ness Monster–hunting on a boat trip. Next up, tour iconic Urquhart Castle, before exploring the loch’s quieter eastern shore, including a meal at the lovely Dores Inn.
Four Days in the Scottish Highlands
Spend day three exploring Inverness or take a dolphin-watching tour. Finish up with a drive southwest to Glen Coe, stopping en route in Fort William to ride a steam train and tour a distillery.
Finished with the highlands? Take a 13-hour overnight train to London.
Arriving in the Scottish Highlands
Air Inverness Airport at Dalcross has scheduled domestic and some international flights.
Bus There are regular bus services along the Great Glen between Inverness and Fort William.
Train Inverness is connected by train to Glasgow, Edinburgh and London.
Where to Stay
Inverness, Aviemore and Fort William are the main centres for accommodation, but most reasonably sized towns will also have a couple of hotels and a dozen or more B&Bs – many set in superb Victorian villas, farmhouses and manses (former church ministers’ houses). Camping is a popular way to enjoy the great outdoors and there’s no shortage of official campsites. Wild camping is also widely practised.
TOP EXPERIENCE
On the Whisky Trail
Scotland’s national drink – in Gaelic uisge bagh, meaning ‘water of life’ – has been distilled here for more than 500 years. Over 100 distilleries are still in business, producing hundreds of varieties of single malt, with new operations opening every year.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Fèis Ìle (Islay Festival), which celebrates traditional Scottish music and whisky in May.
8Need to Know
Scotch whisky (always spelt without an ‘e’ – ‘whiskey’ is Irish or American) is Scotland’s biggest export. The standard measure in pubs is either 25ml or 35ml.
5Take a Break
Offering Highland comfort food, Pitlochry’s Moulin Hotel (
%01796-472196; www.moulinhotel.co.uk; Kirkmichael Rd; mains £9-16; 
hfood served noon-9.30pm; 
p
W
c) is within striking distance of both Edradour and Blair Athol Distilleries.
oTop Tip
Don’t ask for ‘Scotch’ – what else would you be served in Scotland?
Whisky has been distilled in Scotland at least since the 15th century and probably much longer. Learning to distinguish the smoky, peaty whiskies of Islay from, say, the flowery, sherried malts of Speyside has become a hugely popular pastime.
Whisky Central
The Speyside region, around Dufftown and Glenlivet, is the epicentre of the whisky industry. More than 50 distilleries open their doors during the twice yearly Spirit of Speyside Festival (www.spiritofspeyside.com; hMay & Sep), and many are open all year long.
Some pubs in the region have become known as whisky bars, because of their staggering range of single malt whiskies – the famous Quaich bar in the Craigellachie Hotel (%01340-881204; www.craigellachiehotel.co.uk; Craigellachie; r from £150; pW), established in 1894, offers more than 800 different varieties.
Visiting a Distillery
Many distilleries offer guided tours, rounded off with a tasting session. Trying local varieties is a great way to explore the whisky-making regions, but while visiting a distillery can be a memorable experience, only hardcore malt-hounds will want to go to more than one or two. The following are good options for a day trip from Inverness.
Edradour DistilleryDistillery
(%01796-472095; www.edradour.co.uk; Moulin Rd; tour adult/child £10/5; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, to 4.30pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar; pc)
This is proudly Scotland’s smallest and most picturesque distillery and one of the best to visit: you can see the whole process, easily explained, in one building. It’s 2.5 miles east of Pitlochry by car, along the Moulin road, or a pleasant 1-mile walk.
Blair Athol DistilleryDistillery
(%01796-482003; www.malts.com; Perth Rd; standard tour £8; h10am-5pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Nov-Mar)
Tours here focus on whisky making and the blending of this well-known dram. More detailed private tours give you greater insights and superior tastings.
GlenmorangieDistillery
(%01862-892477; www.glenmorangie.com; tours £7.50; htours 10am-4pm Jun-Aug, 10am-3pm Mon-Sat Apr-May & Sep-Oct, 10am & 2pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar)
Located on Tain’s northern outskirts, Glenmorangie (emphasis on the second syllable) produces a fine lightish malt, subjected to a number of different cask finishes for variation. The tour is less in-depth than some but finishes with a free dram. There’s a more comprehensive Signet tour (£35) and, for real whisky geeks, a full-day Heritage Tour (£130, April to October).
TOP EXPERIENCE
Loch Ness
Deep, dark and narrow, the bitterly cold waters of Loch Ness have long drawn waves of people hunting Nessie, the elusive Loch Ness Monster. Despite the crowds, it’s still possible to find tranquillity and gorgeous views. Add a highly photogenic castle and some superb hiking and you have a loch with bags of appeal.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Climbing to the battlements of the iconic tower of Urquhart Castle, for grandstand views from the rocky headland, up and down Loch Ness.
8Need to Know
A complete circuit of the loch is about 70 miles; travel anticlockwise for the best views.
5Take a Break
Drumnadrochit has cafes and restaurants aplenty, but they can get very busy. To avoid the crowds, head for the Dores Inn on the east side.
oTop Tip
Fancy a spot of Nessie hunting? Check out the latest at www.lochnesssightings.com.
Tales of the Loch Ness Monster truly took off in the 1930s, when reported sightings led to a press furore and a string of high-profile photographs. Reports have tailed off recently, but the bizarre mini-industry that’s grown up around Nessie is a spectacle in itself.
Drumnadrochit
Seized by monster madness, its gift shops bulging with Nessie cuddly toys, Drumnadrochit is a hotbed of beastie fever, with Nessie attractions battling it out for the tourist dollar.
The Loch Ness Centre & Exhibition (%01456-450573; www.lochness.com; adult/child £7.95/4.95; h9.30am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Easter-Jun, Sep & Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Easter; pc) adopts a scientific approach that allows you to weigh the evidence for yourself. Exhibits include those on hoaxes and optical illusions and some original equipment – sonar survey vessels, miniature submarines, cameras and sediment coring tools – used in various monster hunts, as well as original photographs and film footage of reported sightings.
If you want to head out yourself, Nessie Hunter (%01456-450395; www.lochness-cruises.com; adult/child £16/10; hEaster-Oct) offers one-hour monster-hunting cruises, complete with sonar and underwater cameras. Cruises depart from Drumnadrochit hourly (except 1pm) from 10am to 6pm daily.
Urquhart Castle
Commanding a superb location 1.5 miles east of Drumnadrochit, with outstanding views, Urquhart Castle (HES; %01456-450551; adult/child £9/5.40; h9.30am-8pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Apr, May & Sep, to 5pm Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Mar; p) is a popular Nessie-hunting hotspot. A huge visitor centre (most of which is beneath ground level) includes a video theatre and displays of medieval items discovered in the castle.
The castle has been repeatedly sacked and rebuilt over the centuries; in 1692 it was blown up to prevent the Jacobites from using it. The five-storey tower house at the northern point is the most impressive remaining fragment and offers fine views across the water.
Loch Ness’ East Side
While tour coaches pour down the west side of Loch Ness to the hotspots of Drumnadrochit and Urquhart Castle, the narrow B862 road along the eastern shore is relatively peaceful. It leads to the village of Foyers, where you can enjoy a pleasant hike to the Falls of Foyers.
It’s also worth making the trip just for the Dores Inn (%01463-751203; www.thedoresinn.co.uk; Dores; mains £10-27; hpub 10am-11pm, food served noon-2pm & 6-9pm; pW), a beautifully restored country pub adorned with recycled furniture, local landscape paintings and fresh flowers. The menu specialises in quality Scottish produce, from haggis, neeps (turnips) and tatties (potatoes), and haddock and chips, to steaks, scallops and seafood platters. The pub garden has stunning Loch Ness views and a dedicated monster-spotting vantage point.
Hiking at Loch Ness
The South Loch Ness Trail (www.visitinvernesslochness.com) links a series of footpaths and minor roads along the less-frequented southern side of the loch. The 28 miles from Loch Tarff near Fort Augustus to Torbreck on the fringes of Inverness can be done on foot, by bike or on horseback.
The climb to the summit of Meallfuarvonie (699m), on the northwestern shore of Loch Ness, makes an excellent short hill walk: the views along the Great Glen from the top are superb. It’s a 6-mile round trip, so allow about three hours. Start from the car park at the end of the minor road leading south from Drumnadrochit to Bunloit.
Inverness
Inverness has a great location astride the River Ness at the northern end of the Great Glen. In summer it overflows with visitors intent on monster hunting at nearby Loch Ness, but it’s worth a visit in its own right for a stroll along the picturesque River Ness, a cruise on Loch Ness, and a meal in one of the city’s excellent restaurants. The broad and shallow River Ness, famed for its salmon fishing, runs through the heart of the city.
1Sights
Ness IslandsPark
The main attraction in Inverness is a leisurely stroll along the river to the Ness Islands. Planted with mature Scots pine, fir, beech and sycamore, and linked to the river banks and each other by elegant Victorian footbridges, the islands make an appealing picnic spot. They’re a 20-minute walk south of the castle – head upstream on either side of the river (the start of the Great Glen Way) and return on the opposite bank.
Fort GeorgeFortress
(HES; %01667-462777; www.historicenvironment.scot; adult/child £9/5.40; h9.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar; p)
One of the finest artillery fortifications in Europe, Fort George was established in 1748 in the aftermath of the Battle of Culloden, as a base for George II’s army of occupation in the Highlands. By the time of its completion in 1769 it had cost the equivalent of around £1 billion in today’s money. It still functions as a military barracks; public areas have exhibitions on 18th-century soldiery and the mile-plus walk around the ramparts offers fine views.
Given its size, you’ll need at least two hours to do the place justice. The fort is off the A96 about 11 miles northeast of Inverness; there is no public transport.
Brodie CastleCastle
(NTS; %01309-641371; www.nts.org.uk; Brodie; adult/child £11/6.50; h10am-5pm Mar-Oct, 11am-3pm Nov & Dec; p)
Set in 70 hectares of parkland, Brodie Castle has a library with more than 6000 peeling, dusty volumes, wonderful clocks, a huge Victorian kitchen and a 17th-century dining room with wildly extravagant moulded plaster ceilings depicting mythological scenes. The Brodies have been living here since 1160, but the present structure dates mostly from 1567, with many additions over the years. The castle is 4 miles west of Forres.
Cawdor CastleCastle
(%01667-404615; www.cawdorcastle.com; Cawdor; adult/child £11.50/7.20; h10am-5.30pm May-Sep; p)
This castle, 5 miles southwest of Nairn, was once the seat of the Thane of Cawdor, one of the titles bestowed on Shakespeare’s Macbeth. The real Macbeth – an ancient Scottish king – couldn’t have lived here though, since he died in 1057, 300 years before the castle was begun. Nevertheless the tour gives a fascinating insight into the lives of the Scottish aristocracy.
2Activities
Dolphin SpiritWildlife Watching
(%07544 800620; www.dolphinspirit.co.uk; Inverness Marina, Stadium Rd; adult/child £18.50/12; hEaster-Oct)
Four times a day in season, this outfit runs cruises from Inverness into the Moray Firth to spot the UK’s largest pod of bottlenose dolphins – around 130 animals. The dolphins feed on salmon heading for the rivers at the head of the firth, and can often be seen leaping and bow-surfing.
Loch Ness by JacobiteBoating
(%01463-233999; www.jacobite.co.uk; Glenurquhart Rd; adult/child £23/15; hJun-Sep; 
#)
Boats depart from Tomnahurich Bridge twice daily for a three-hour cruise along the Caledonian Canal to Loch Ness and back, with a live commentary on local history and wildlife. Buy tickets at the tourist office and catch a free minibus to the boat. Other cruises and combined cruise and coach tours, from one to 6½ hours, are also available, some year-round.
5Eating
Café 1Bistro££
(map Google map; %01463-226200; www.cafe1.net; 75 Castle St; mains £12-28; hnoon-2.30pm & 5-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 12.30-3pm & 6-9.30pm Sat; 
vc) 
S
Café 1 is a friendly, appealing bistro with candlelit tables amid elegant blond-wood and wrought-iron decor. There is an international menu based on quality Scottish produce, from Aberdeen Angus steaks to crisp pan-fried sea bass and meltingly tender pork belly. There’s a separate vegan menu.
Kitchen BrasserieModern Scottish££
(map Google map; %01463-259119; www.kitchenrestaurant.co.uk; 15 Huntly St; mains £11-22; hnoon-3pm & 5-10pm; Wc)
This spectacular glass-fronted restaurant offers a great menu of top Scottish produce with a Mediterranean or Asian touch, and a view over the River Ness – try to get a table upstairs. Offers a great-value two-course lunch (£10; noon to 3pm) and early-bird menu (£14; 5pm to 7pm).
Mustard SeedBistro££
(map Google map; %01463-220220; www.mustardseedrestaurant.co.uk; 16 Fraser St; mains £13-23; hnoon-3pm & 5.30-10pm) S
The menu at this bright and bustling bistro changes weekly, but focuses on Scottish and French cuisine with a modern twist. Grab a table on the upstairs balcony if you can – it’s the best outdoor lunch spot in Inverness, with a great view across the river. And a two-course lunch for £10 – yes, that’s right – is hard to beat.
The Battle of Culloden
The Battle of Culloden in 1746 – the last pitched battle ever fought on British soil – saw the defeat of Bonnie Prince Charlie and the end of the Jacobite dream when 1200 Highlanders were slaughtered by government forces in a 68-minute rout. The Duke of Cumberland, son of the reigning King George II and leader of the Hanoverian army, earned the nickname ‘Butcher’ for his brutal treatment of the defeated Jacobite forces. The battle sounded the death knell for the old clan system, and the horrors of the Clearances, when tenants were evicted from their lands, soon followed. The sombre moor where the conflict took place has scarcely changed in the ensuing 260 years.
The impressive Culloden Visitor Centre (NTS; www.nts.org.uk/culloden; adult/child £11/9.50; h9am-7pm Jun-Aug, to 6pm Mar-May, Sep & Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Feb; p) has everything you need to know about the Battle of Culloden in 1746, including the lead-up and the aftermath, with perspectives from both sides. An innovative film puts you on the battlefield in the middle of the mayhem, and a wealth of other audio presentations must have kept Inverness’ entire acting community in business for weeks. The admission fee includes an audio guide for a self-guided tour of the battlefield itself.
Culloden is 6 miles east of Inverness. Bus 5 runs from Eastgate shopping centre in Inverness to Culloden battlefield (£3.15, 30 minutes, hourly except Sunday).
6Drinking & Nightlife
PhoenixPub
(map Google map; %01463-233685; www.phoenixalehouse.co.uk; 108 Academy St; h11am-1am Mon-Sat, noon-midnight Sun)
Beautifully refurbished, this is the most traditional of the pubs in the city centre, with a mahogany horseshoe bar and several real ales on tap, including beers from the Cairngorm, Cromarty and Isle of Skye breweries.
Clachnaharry InnPub
(%01463-239806; www.clachnaharryinn.co.uk; 17-19 High St, Clachnaharry; h11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-1am Fri & Sat, noon-11pm Sun; #)
Just over a mile northwest of the city centre, on the bank of the Caledonian Canal just off the A862, is this delightful old coaching inn (with beer garden out the back) serving an excellent range of real ales and good pub grub.
3Entertainment
HootanannyLive Music
(map Google map; %01463-233651; www.hootanannyinverness.co.uk; 67 Church St; hnoon-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, 4pm-midnight Sun)
Hootananny is the city’s best live-music venue, with traditional folk- and/or rock-music sessions nightly, including big-name bands from all over Scotland (and, indeed, the world). The bar is well stocked with a range of beers from the local Black Isle Brewery.
8INFORMATION
Inverness Tourist Office (%01463-252401; www.visithighlands.com; 36 High St; h9am-5pm Mon & Wed-Sat, from 10am Tue, 10am-3pm Sun, longer hours Mar-Oct; W) Accommodation booking service; also sells tickets for tours and cruises.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
AIR
Inverness Airport (INV; %01667-464000; www.invernessairport.co.uk) is at Dalcross, 10 miles east of the city, off the A96 towards Aberdeen. There are scheduled flights to Amsterdam, London, Manchester, Dublin, Orkney, Shetland and the Outer Hebrides, as well as other places in the UK.
Stagecoach (%01463-233371; www.stagecoachbus.com) bus 11/11A runs from the airport to Inverness bus station (£4.40, 25 minutes, every 30 minutes).
BUS
Services depart from Inverness bus station (Margaret St). Most intercity routes are served by Scottish Citylink (%0871 266 3333; www.citylink.co.uk) and Stagecoach. National Express (%08717 818181; www.nationalexpress.com) has services to London (from £30, 13½ hours, one daily – more frequent services require changing at Glasgow).
Edinburgh £32.20, 3½ to 4½ hours, seven daily
Fort William £12.20, two hours, six daily
Glasgow £32.20, 3½ to 4½ hours, hourly
If you book far enough in advance, Megabus (%0141-352 4444; www.megabus.com) offers fares from as little as £1 for buses from Inverness to Glasgow and Edinburgh, and £10 to London.
TRAIN
Edinburgh £40, 3½ hours, eight daily
Glasgow £40, 3½ hours, eight daily
Kyle of Lochalsh £20, 2½ hours, four daily Monday to Saturday, two Sunday; one of Britain’s great scenic train journeys
London £180, eight to nine hours, one daily direct; others require a change at Edinburgh
8GETTING AROUND
BICYCLE
Ticket to Ride (%01463-419160; www.tickettoridehighlands.co.uk; Bellfield Park; per day from £30; h9am-6pm Apr-Aug, Wed-Mon Sep & Oct) Hires out mountain bikes, hybrids and tandems; bikes can be dropped off in Fort William. Will deliver bikes free to local hotels and B&Bs.
BUS
City services and buses to places around Inverness, including Nairn, Forres, the Culloden battlefield, Beauly, Dingwall and Lairg, are operated by Stagecoach. An Inverness Zone 2 Dayrider ticket costs £6.80 and gives unlimited travel for a day on buses as far afield as Culloden, Fortrose and Drumnadrochit.
CAR
Focus Vehicle Rental (%01463-709517; www.focusvehiclerental.co.uk; 6 Harbour Rd) The big boys charge from around £55 to £75 per day, but Focus has cheaper rates starting at £45 per day.
Fort William
1Sights
Jacobite Steam TrainHeritage Railway
(%0844 850 4685; www.westcoastrailways.co.uk; day return adult/child from £35/20; hdaily mid-Jun–Aug, Mon-Fri mid-May–mid-Jun, Sep & Oct)
The Jacobite Steam Train, hauled by a former LNER K1 or LMS Class 5MT locomotive, travels the scenic two-hour run between Fort William and Mallaig. Classed as one of the great railway journeys of the world, the route crosses the historic Glenfinnan Viaduct, made famous in the Harry Potter films – the Jacobite’s owners supplied the steam locomotive and rolling stock used in the film.
Trains depart from Fort William train station in the morning and return from Mallaig in the afternoon. There’s a brief stop at Glenfinnan station, and you get 1½ hours in Mallaig.
West Highland MuseumMuseum
(%01397-702169; www.westhighlandmuseum.org.uk; Cameron Sq; h10am-5pm Mon-Sat May-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Apr, 11am-3pm Sun Jul & Aug) 
F
This small but fascinating museum is packed with all manner of Highland memorabilia. Look out for the secret portrait of Bonnie Prince Charlie – after the Jacobite rebellions, all things Highland were banned, including pictures of the exiled leader; this tiny painting looks like nothing more than a smear of paint until viewed in a cylindrical mirror, which reflects a credible likeness of the prince.
2Activities
Nevis Range Downhill & Witch’s TrailsMountain Biking
(%01397-705825; www.nevisrange.co.uk/bike; single/multitrip ticket £18.50/34.50; hdownhill course 10.15am-3.45pm Apr-Oct, forest trails 24hr year-round)
Nevis Range ski area (%01397-705825; www.nevisrange.co.uk; day ticket per adult/child £21/12; h10am-6pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, 9.30am-dusk Nov-Mar) has a world championship downhill mountain-bike trail – for experienced riders only; bikes are carried up on the gondola cabin. There’s also a 4-mile XC red trail that begins at the ski area’s Snowgoose restaurant, and the Witch’s Trails – 25 miles of waymarked forest road and singletrack in the nearby forest, including a 5-mile world championship loop.
Crannog CruisesWildlife
(%01397-700714; www.crannog.net/cruises; adult/child £15/7.50; h11am, 1pm & 3pm Easter-Oct)
Operates 1½-hour wildlife cruises on Loch Linnhe, visiting a seal colony and a salmon farm.
7Shopping
Highland BookshopBooks
(www.highlandbookshop.com; 60 High St; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-4pm Sun)
As well as a good selection of fiction and children’s books, this shop stocks a superb range of outdoor-related books and maps covering climbing, walking, cycling, canoeing and other subjects. The upstairs lounge offers coffee and tea, and hosts regular literary events.
Famous Glen Coe
Scotland’s most famous glen is also one of its grandest and – in bad weather – its grimmest. The approach to the glen from the east is guarded by the rocky pyramid of Buachaille Etive Mor – the Great Shepherd of Etive – and the lonely Kings House Hotel (closed for renovation until 2019). After the Battle of Culloden in 1745 it was used as a Hanoverian garrison – hence the name.
The A82 road leads over the Pass of Glencoe and into the narrow upper glen. The southern side is dominated by three massive, brooding spurs, known as the Three Sisters, while the northern side is enclosed by the continuous steep wall of the knife-edged Aonach Eagach ridge, a classic mountaineering challenge. The road threads its way past deep gorges and crashing waterfalls to the more pastoral lower reaches of the glen around Loch Achtriochtan and the only settlement here, Glencoe village.
5Eating, Drinking & Nightlife
Crannog Seafood RestaurantSeafood££
(%01397-705589; www.crannog.net; Town Pier; mains £15-24; hnoon-2.30pm & 6-9pm) S
The Crannog wins the prize for the best location in town – perched on the Town Pier, giving window-table diners an uninterrupted view down Loch Linnhe. Informal and unfussy, it specialises in fresh local fish – there are three or four daily fish specials plus the main menu – though there are lamb, venison and vegetarian dishes, too. Two-/three-course lunch costs £16/19.
Lime TreeScottish££
(%01397-701806; www.limetreefortwilliam.co.uk; Achintore Rd; mains £16-20; h6.30-9.30pm; pW) S
Fort William is not over-endowed with great places to eat, but the restaurant at this small hotel and art gallery has put the UK’s Outdoor Capital on the gastronomic map. The chef turns out delicious dishes built around fresh Scottish produce, ranging from Loch Fyne oysters to Loch Awe trout and Ardnamurchan venison.
Grog & GruelPub
(%01397-705078; www.grogandgruel.co.uk; 66 High St; hnoon-midnight; W)
The Grog & Gruel is a traditional-style, wood-panelled pub with an excellent range of cask ales from regional Scottish and English microbreweries.
Climbing Ben Nevis
As the highest peak in the British Isles, Ben Nevis (1345m) attracts many would-be ascensionists who would not normally think of climbing a Scottish mountain. Although anyone who is reasonably fit should have no problem climbing Ben Nevis on a fine summer’s day, an ascent should not be undertaken lightly; every year people have to be rescued from the mountain. You will need proper walking boots (the path is rough and stony, and there may be snow on the summit), warm clothing, waterproofs, a map and compass, and plenty of food and water. And don’t forget to check the weather forecast (www.bennevisweather.co.uk).
There are three possible starting points for the tourist track ascent: Achintee Farm; the footbridge at Glen Nevis SYHA hostel; and, if you have a car, the car park at Glen Nevis Visitor Centre (%01397-705922; www.bennevisweather.co.uk; h8.30am-6pm Jul & Aug, 9am-5pm Apr-Jun, Sep & Oct, 9am-3pm Nov-Mar). The path climbs gradually to the shoulder at Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe (known as the Halfway Lochan), then zigzags steeply up beside the Red Burn to the summit plateau. The highest point is marked by a trig point on top of a huge cairn beside the ruins of the old observatory. The total distance to the summit and back is 8 miles; allow at least four or five hours to reach the top, and another 2½ to three hours for the descent.
8INFORMATION
Fort William Tourist Office (%01397-701801; www.visithighlands.com; 15 High St; internet per 20min £1; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun, longer hours Jun-Aug; W)
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
BUS
Scottish Citylink (%0871 266 3333; www.citylink.co.uk) buses link Fort William with other major towns and cities.
Edinburgh £37, 5¼ hours, four daily with a change at Glasgow; via Glencoe and Crianlarich
Glasgow £25, three hours, four daily
Inverness £12.20, two hours, six daily
Oban £9.40, 1½ hours, two daily
CAR
Fort William is 146 miles from Edinburgh, 104 miles from Glasgow and 66 miles from Inverness. The tourist office has listings of car-hire companies.
Easydrive Car Hire (%01397-701616; www.easydrivescotland.co.uk; North Rd; h8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat, to 4pm Sun) Hires out small cars from £40/175 a day/week, including tax and unlimited mileage, but not Collision Damage Waiver (CDW).
TRAIN
The spectacular West Highland line runs from Glasgow to Mallaig via Fort William. The overnight Caledonian Sleeper (www.sleeper.scot) service connects Fort William and London Euston (from £135 sharing a twin-berth cabin, 13 hours).
Edinburgh £40, five hours; change at Glasgow’s Queen St station, three daily, two on Sunday
Glasgow £30, 3¾ hours, three daily, two on Sunday
Mallaig £13, 1½ hours, four daily, three on Sunday
8GETTING AROUND
BICYCLE
Nevis Cycles (%01397-705555; www.neviscycles.com; cnr Montrose Ave & Locheil Rd, Inverlochy; per day from £25; h9am-5.30pm) Located a half-mile northeast of the town centre, this place rents everything from hybrid bikes and mountain bikes to full-suspension downhill racers. Bikes can be hired here and dropped off in Inverness.
BUS
A Zone 2 Dayrider ticket (£9.10) gives unlimited travel for one day on Stagecoach bus services in the Fort William area, as far as Glencoe and Fort Augustus. Buy from the bus driver.