LISBON, PORTUGAL
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Lisbon’s Trams
Day Trip: Sintra
Sights
Shopping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Information
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Lisbon, Portugal
Spread across steep hillsides that overlook the Rio Tejo, Lisbon has captivated visitors for centuries. Windswept vistas reveal the city in all its beauty: Roman and Moorish ruins, white-domed cathedrals, grand plazas and a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone lanes to lose oneself in. As yellow trams clatter through tree-lined streets, lisboêtas stroll through lamp-lit old quarters. Gossip is exchanged over wine at tiny restaurants while fado performers sing their hearts out. In nearby hoods, Lisbon reveals her youthful alter ego at bohemian bars and late-night street parties.
Two Days in Lisbon
Explore Lisbon’s old town – the Alfama – on day one, perhaps taking a ride on old tram 28E part of the way. Round off with a fado performance in the evening. On day two explore Belém and the fantastical Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. In the evening sample some of Lisbon’s famous nightlife.
Four Days in Lisbon
On day three hit the museums – Lisbon has plenty dedicated to a range of subjects, but one highlight is the Museu Nacional do Azulejo packed with traditional tiles. On day four seek out a picnic lunch at the Mercado da Ribeira and laze away the day lusting over bird’s-eye city views from Miradouro da Graça and chilling in the park below.
Finished in Lisbon? Fly to Copenhagen or Prague.
Arriving in Lisbon
Aeroporto de Lisboa Convenient metro access to downtown from Aeroporto station; change at Alameda (green line) for Rossio and Baixa. Pay around €16 for the 15-minute taxi ride into town.
Sete Rios bus station Main long-distance bus terminal, adjacent to both Jardim Zoológico metro station and Sete Rios train station.
Gare do Oriente Lisbon’s largest train station and bus terminal (services north and on to Spain), with metro station linking both to the rest of the city.
Where to Stay
Lisbon has an array of boutique hotels, upmarket hostels and both modern and old-fashioned guesthouses. Be sure to book ahead for high season (July to September). A word to those with weak knees and/or heavy bags: many guesthouses lack lifts, meaning you’ll have to haul your luggage up three flights or more. If this disconcerts, be sure to book a place with a lift. Rates do not include a €2 per person per night tourist tax.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
One of Lisbon’s top attractions is this Unesco-listed monastery in riverside Belém. With its intricately carved church and honey-stone cloisters guarded for centuries by menacing gargoyles and other fantastical stone beasts, it is one of the finest examples of the elaborate Manueline style.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The rows of seats in the church are Portugal’s first Renaissance woodcarvings.
8Need to Know
www.mosteirojeronimos.pt; Praça do Império; adult/child €10/5, free Sun until 2pm for Portuguese citizens/residents only; 
h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-May
5Take a Break
Grab a pastel de Belém (custard tart) at Antiga Confeitaria de Belém to enjoy in the gardens opposite.
oTop Tip
Save a few euros by buying a combined ticket with the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia for €12, or enter free with the Lisboa Card.
The Monastery’s Story
Belém’s undisputed heart-stealer is the stuff of pure fantasy; a fusion of Diogo de Boitaca’s creative vision and the spice-and-pepper dosh of Manuel I, who commissioned it to trumpet Vasco da Gama’s discovery of a sea route to India in 1498. The building embodies the golden age of Portuguese discoveries and was funded using the profits from the spices Vasco da Gama brought back from the subcontinent. Building began in 1502 but was not completed for almost a century. Wrought for the glory of God, Jerónimos was once populated by monks of the Order of St Jerome, whose spiritual job for four centuries was to comfort sailors and pray for the king’s soul. The monastery withstood the 1755 earthquake but fell into disrepair when the order was dissolved in 1833. It was later used as a school and orphanage until about 1940. In 2007 the now much-discussed Treaty of Lisbon was signed here.
Vasco da Gama
Born in Alentejo in the 1460s, Vasco da Gama was the first European explorer to reach India by ship. This was a key moment in Portuguese history as it opened up trading links to Asia and established Portugal’s maritime empire, the wealth from which made the country into a world superpower. Da Gama died from malaria on his third voyage to India in 1524.
The Church
Entering the church through the western portal, you’ll notice tree-trunk-like columns that seem to grow into the ceiling, which is itself a spiderweb of stone. Windows cast a soft golden light over the church. Superstar Vasco da Gama is interred in the lower chancel, just left of the entrance, opposite venerated 16th-century poet Luís Vaz de Camões. From the upper choir, there’s a superb view of the church.
The Cloisters
There’s nothing like the moment you walk into the honey-stone Manueline cloisters, dripping with organic detail in their delicately scalloped arches, twisting auger-shell turrets and columns intertwined with leaves, vines and knots. It will simply wow. Keep an eye out for symbols of the age such as the armillary sphere and the cross of the Military Order, plus gargoyles and fantastical beasties on the upper balustrade.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Lisbon’s Trams
Quintessentially Lisbon, a ride on one of the city’s typical yellow trams should be on your to-do list. Tram 28E climbs through the Moorish time capsule of Alfama – the city’s most atmospheric neighbourhood stitched from labyrinthine lanes and rust-shaded rooftops – and rewards visitors with a fun and different perspective on urban life.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
In addition to tram 28E, two other useful other city-centre tram routes are 15E and 18E.
8Need to Know
Carris (
%213 500 115; www.carris.pt) operates all transport in Lisbon proper except the metro.
5Take a Break
Many cafes and restaurants line the route of tram 28E – take your pick.
oTop Tip
Ride tram 28E early in the morning or at night to avoid the tourist mobs.
Lisbon’s Old Trams
Lisbon’s old yellow streetcars are a nostalgic throwback to the early days of urban public transport and would have long since been pensioned off to a transport museum in most other European countries. They have survived largely because they were specially designed for a specific task – to trundle up and down central Lisbon’s steep gradients (just like their San Francisco cousins) and would be much too expensive to replace. These roller-coaster vintage trams have been shaking, rattling and rolling around the city since 1901 (they were horse-pulled before that) and are called remodelados (remodelled). The name comes from the fact the cars were slightly upgraded in the 1990s to include such luxuries as late-20th-century brakes. There were once 27 lines in the city, but the construction of the metro put the system into decline. Today there are only five lines left – remodelados run on all of them.
Tram Stops & Fares
Lisbon’s tram stops are marked by a small yellow paragem (stop) sign strung from a lamp post or overhead wires. You’ll pay more for a tram ride if you buy your ticket on board rather than purchasing a prepaid card. On-board one-way prices are €3, but a day pass costs just €6.40 and is valid on all of the city’s public transport for 24 hours.
Tram 28E
The famous tram 28E, Lisbon’s longest tram route, is extremely popular with tourists as it heads through Baixa, Graça, Alfama and Estrela, climbing the steep hill from Baixa to the castle and Alfama as well as three of the city’s seven other hills en route. There are 34 stops between Campo Ourique in the west of the city centre to Martim Monique; the most interesting section is between Estrela and Graça. Trams depart every 11 minutes, though the last leaves fairly early (before 10pm). The experience on the museum-piece tram can be uncomfortable for some, with varnished wooden benches, steps and crowds of tourists getting in each other’s way. But it’s worth it for the ride – there’s no cheaper way to see the city.
With groups of tourists crammed into a small space, sadly tram 28E is a happy hunting ground for pickpockets. Take the usual precautions to avoid being parted from your possessions.
Other Tram Routes
Two other useful routes are tram 15E, which runs from Praça da Figueira and Praça do Comércio via Alcântara to Belém, and tram 18E, running from Praça do Comércio via Alcântara to Ajuda. Tram 15E features space-age articulated trams with on-board machines for buying tickets and passes. Tram stops are marked by a small yellow paragem (stop) sign hanging from lamp posts or overhead wires.
Funiculars
Funiculars generally have somewhat shorter hours of operation. The Ascensor da Bica runs up Rua da Bica de Duarte Belo to Calçada do Combro; Ascensor da Glória runs from Praça dos Restauradores to Rua São Pedro de Alcântara; and Ascensor da Lavra goes from Largo da Anunciada near Av da Liberdade to Rua Câmara Pestana in Lavra.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Day Trip: Sintra
A memorable side trip from Lisbon, Sintra is like a page torn from a fairy tale with its rippling mountains, dewy forests, exotic gardens and lush bevy of glittering palaces. Its Unesco World Heritage–listed centre, Sintra-Vila, is dotted with pastel-hued manors folded into luxuriant hills that roll down to the blue Atlantic.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The extraordinary palace kitchens and banquet halls at Palácio Nacional de Sintra.
8Need to Know
Train it here from Lisbon’s Rossio (€2.25, 40 minutes) or Oriente (€2.25, 50 minutes) stations.
5Take a Break
Lunch on great-value, modern Portuguese cuisine at edgy INcomun (www.incomumbyluissantos.pt).
oTop Tip
Arrive early or late to avoid the biggest crowds.
Palácio Nacional de Sintra
The star of Sintra-Vila is this palace (www.parquesdesintra.pt; Largo Rainha Dona Amélia; adult/child €10/8.50; h9.30am-7pm), with its iconic twin conical chimneys and lavish, whimsical interior, which is a mix of Moorish and Manueline styles. It has arabesque courtyards, barley-twist columns and 15th- and 16th-century geometric azulejos (hand-painted tiles) – among Portugal’s oldest.
Quinta da Regaleira
This magical villa and gardens (www.regaleira.pt; Rua Barbosa du Bocage; adult/child €6/4, tours €12/8; h9.30am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar) is a neo-Manueline extravaganza, dreamed up by Italian opera-set designer, Luigi Manini, under the orders of Brazilian coffee tycoon, António Carvalho Monteiro, aka ‘Monteiro dos Milhões’ (Moneybags Monteiro). The villa is surprisingly homely inside, despite its ferociously carved fireplaces, frescos and Venetian-glass mosaics. Keep an eye out for mythological and Knights Templar symbols.
Palácio Nacional da Pena
Rising from a thickly wooded peak and often enshrouded in swirling mist, Palácio Nacional da Pena (www.parquesdesintra.pt; combined ticket with Parque da Pena adult/child €14/12.50; h9.45am-7pm) is a wacky confection of onion domes, Moorish keyhole gates, writhing stone snakes and crenellated towers in pinks and lemons. It is considered the greatest expression of 19th-century romanticism in Portugal.
Castelo dos Mouros
Soaring 412m above sea level, this mist-enshrouded ruined castle (www.parquesdesintra.pt; adult/child €8/6.50; h9.30am-8pm) looms high above the surrounding forest. When the clouds peel away, the vistas over Sintra’s palace-dotted hill and dale, across to the glittering Atlantic are – like the climb – breathtaking. The 10th-century Moorish castle’s dizzying ramparts stretch across the mountain ridges and past moss-clad boulders the size of small buses.
Tickets and info are available at the entrance (open 10am to 6pm).
Parque da Pena
Nearly topped by King Ferdinand II’s whimsical Palácio Nacional da Pena (only Cruz Alta, at 529m, is higher), these romantic gardens (%219 237 300; www.parquesdesintra.pt; adult/child €7.50/6.50, combined ticket with Palácio Nacional da Pena €14/12.50; h9.30am-8pm) are filled with tropical plants, huge redwoods and fern trees, camellias, rhododendrons and lakes (note the castle-shaped duck houses for web-footed royalty!). Save by buying a combined ticket if you want to visit Palácio Nacional da Pena, too.
1Sights
Castelo de São JorgeCastle
(map Google map; www.castelodesaojorge.pt; adult/student/child €8.50/4/free; h9am-9pm Mar-Oct, to 6pm Nov-Feb)
Towering dramatically above Lisbon, the mid-11th-century hilltop fortifications of Castelo de São Jorge sneak into almost every snapshot. Roam its snaking ramparts and pine-shaded courtyards for superlative views over the city’s red rooftops to the river. Three guided tours daily (in Portuguese, English and Spanish) at 10.30am, 1pm and 4pm are included in the admission price (additional tours available).
Convento do Carmo & Museu ArqueológicoRuins
(map Google map; www.museuarqueologicodocarmo.pt; Largo do Carmo; adult/child €4/free; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat Jun-Sep, to 6pm Oct-May)
Soaring above Lisbon, the skeletal Convento do Carmo was all but devoured by the 1755 earthquake and that’s precisely what makes it so captivating. Its shattered pillars and wishbone-like arches are completely exposed to the elements. The Museu Arqueológico shelters archaeological treasures, such as 4th-century sarcophagi, griffin-covered column fragments, 16th-century azulejo (hand-painted tile) panels and two gruesome 16th-century Peruvian mummies.
Museu Nacional do AzulejoMuseum
(%218 100 340; www.museudoazulejo.pt; Rua Madre de Deus 4; adult/child €5/free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Housed in a sublime 16th-century convent, Lisbon’s Museu Nacional do Azulejo covers the entire azulejo (hand-painted tile) spectrum. Star exhibits feature a 36m-long panel depicting pre-earthquake Lisbon, a Manueline cloister with web-like vaulting and exquisite blue-and-white azulejos, and a gold-smothered baroque chapel.
Sé de LisboaCathedral
(map Google map; Largo de Sé; h9am-7pm Tue-Sat, to 5pm Sun & Mon) 
F
The fortress-like Sé de Lisboa is one of Lisbon’s icons. It was built in 1150 on the site of a mosque soon after Christians recaptured the city from the Moors. It was sensitively restored in the 1930s. Despite the masses outside, the rib-vaulted interior, lit by a rose window, is calm. Stroll around the cathedral to spy leering gargoyles above the orange trees.
Museu do FadoMuseum
(map Google map; www.museudofado.pt; Largo do Chafariz de Dentro; adult/child €5/3; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Fado (traditional Portuguese melancholic song) was born in Alfama. Immerse yourself in its bittersweet symphonies at Museu do Fado. This engaging museum traces fado’s history from its working-class roots to international stardom.
Igreja & Museu São RoqueChurch, Museum
(map Google map; www.museu-saoroque.com; Largo Trindade Coelho; church free, museum adult/child €2.50/free, 10am-2pm Sun free; h2-7pm Mon, 10am-7pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, 10am-8pm Thu, shorter hours in winter)
The plain facade of 16th-century Jesuit Igreja de São Roque belies its dazzling interior of gold, marble and Florentine azulejos – bankrolled by Brazilian riches. Its star attraction is Capela de São João Baptista, a lavish confection of amethyst, alabaster, lapis lazuli and Carrara marble. The museum adjoining the church is packed with elaborate sacred art and holy relics.
Praça do ComércioPlaza
(map Google map; Terreiro do Paço; Praça do Comércio)
With its grand 18th-century arcades, lemon-meringue facades and mosaic cobbles, the riverfront Praça do Comércio is a square to out-pomp them all. Everyone arriving by boat used to disembark here, and it still feels like the gateway to Lisbon, thronging with activity and rattling trams.
Museu Nacional dos CochesMuseum
(www.museudoscoches.pt; Av da Índia 136; €8, combined ticket with Antigo Picadeiro Real €10, free Sun to 2pm for Portuguese citizens/residents only; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun)
Cinderella wannabes delight in Portugal’s most visited museum, which dazzles with its world-class collection of 70 17th- to 19th-century coaches in an ultramodern (and some might say inappropriately contrasting) space that debuted in 2015. Don’t miss Pope Clement XI’s stunning ride, the scarlet-and-gold Coach of the Oceans, or the old royal riding school, Antigo Picadeiro Real (Old Royal Riding School; www.museudoscoches.pt; Praça Afonso de Albuquerque; €4, combined ticket with Museu Nacional dos Coches €10, free Sun to 2pm for Portuguese citizens/residents only; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun), across the street.
Museu Coleção BerardoMuseum
(www.museuberardo.pt; Praça do Império; adult/student/child under 6yr €5/2.50/free, free Sat; h10am-7pm)
Culture fiends can get their contemporary-art fix at Museu Coleção Berardo, the star of the Centro Cultural de Belém. The ultrawhite, minimalist gallery displays billionaire José Berardo’s eye-popping collection of abstract, surrealist and pop art, including Hockney, Lichtenstein, Warhol and Pollock originals.
Bird’s-Eye City Views
Hitch a ride on vintage Ascensor da Glória from Praça dos Restauradores or puff your way up steep Calçada da Glória to Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara (map Google map; Rua São Pedro de Alcântara; hviewpoint 24hr, kiosk 10am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat), a terrific hilltop viewpoint, clad with fountains, Greek busts and open-air kiosk selling wine, beer and snacks.
Miradouro da Graça (map Google map; Largo da Graça) is a much-loved summertime hang-out with incredible castle and hillside views, and one of the best sunset shows in town.
Torre de Belém (www.torrebelem.pt; Av de Brasília; adult/child €6/3, free Sun until 2pm for Portuguese citizens/residents only; h10am-6.30pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Apr) is the spot to get up high in Belém: scale the tower at this Unesco World Heritage–listed fortress for sublime views.
7Shopping
A Vida PortuguesaGifts & Souvenirs
(map Google map; www.avidaportuguesa.com; Rua Anchieta 11; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun)
A flashback to the late 19th century with its high ceilings and polished cabinets, this former warehouse and perfume factory lures nostalgics with its all-Portuguese products, from retro-wrapped Tricona sardines to Claus Porto soaps, and heart-embellished Viana do Castelo embroideries to Bordalo Pinheiro porcelain swallows. There’s also a location in Intendente (www.avidaportuguesa.com; Largo do Intendente 23; h10.30am-7.30pm).
Loja das ConservasFood
(map Google map; www.facebook.com/lojadasconservas; Rua do Arsenal 130; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun)
What appears to be a gallery is on closer inspection a fascinating temple to tinned fish (or conservas as the Portuguese say) – the result of an industry on its deathbed revived by a savvy marketing about-face and new generations of hipsters. The retro-wrapped tins, displayed along with the history of each canning factory, are artworks.
Loja do BurelClothing
(map Google map; www.burelfactory.com; Rua Serpa Pinto 15B; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7pm Sun)
Once a clothing staple of Serra da Estrela mountain-dwelling shepherds, Burel, a Portuguese black wool, was all but left to disappear until this company single-handedly resurrected the industry, giving it a stylish makeover fit for 21st-century fashion. The colourful blankets, handbags, jackets, hats and other home decor items aren’t like anything anyone has back home.
EmbaixadaShopping Centre
(map Google map; www.embaixadalx.pt; Praça do Príncipe Real 26; hnoon-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm Sat & Sun, restaurants to 2am)
Take an exquisite 19th-century neo-Moorish palace and fill it with fashion, design and concept stores on the cutting-edge of cool and you have one of Lisbon’s most exciting new shopping experiences: Embaixada. Centred on a grand sweeping staircase and courtyard are boutiques selling everything from vintage records to organic cosmetics, eco-homewares, contemporary Portuguese ceramics and catwalk styles.
5Eating
Antiga Confeitaria de BelémPastries€
(Pastéis de Belém; www.pasteisdebelem.pt; Rua de Belém 84-92; pastries from €1.10; h8am-11pm Oct-Jun, to midnight Jul-Sep)
Since 1837 this patisserie has been transporting locals to sugar-coated nirvana with heavenly pastéis de Belém. The crisp pastry nests are filled with custard cream, baked at 200°C for that perfect golden crust, then lightly dusted with cinnamon. Admire azulejos in the vaulted rooms or devour a still-warm tart at the counter and try to guess the secret ingredient.
Casa Bota FeijãoPortuguese€
(%218 532 489; www.restaurantebotafeijao.pt; Rua Conselheiro Lopo Vaz 5; half/whole portions €8.50/12; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri)
Don’t be fooled by the nondescript decor and railroad-track views – when a tucked-away place is this crowded with locals at lunchtime midweek, it must be doing something right. Everyone’s here for one thing and one thing only: Bairrada-style leitão – suckling pig spit-roasted on an open fire until juicy and meltingly tender, doused in a beautiful peppery garlic sauce.
Ti-NatérciaPortuguese€
(map Google map; %218 862 133; Rua Escola Gerais 54; mains €5.50-12; h7pm-midnight Tue-Fri, noon-3pm & 7pm-midnight Sat)
‘Aunt’ Natércia and her downright delicious Portuguese home cooking is a tough ticket: there are but a mere six tables and they fill up fast. She’ll talk your ear off (and doesn’t mince words – some have been rubbed the wrong way; vegetarians in particular should avoid) while you devour her excellent take on the classics. Reservations are essential (cash only).
PinóquioPortuguese€€
(map Google map; %213 465 106; www.restaurantepinoquio.pt; Praça dos Restauradores 79; mains €17-26; hnoon-midnight; 
W)
Bustling Pinóquio is easy to miss as it’s tucked into a praça corner partially obstructed by a souvenir kiosk. Dressed in white tablecloths against pea-green walls, it’s distinctly old school, with indomitable waiters slinging a stunning slew of classic dishes: arroz de pato (duck rice), seafood feijoada, arroz de bacalhau (codfish rice), and pork chops with almonds and coriander.
O Zé da MourariaPortuguese€€
(map Google map; %218 865 436; Rua João do Outeiro 24; mains for 2 €16.50-33.50; hnoon-4pm Mon-Sat; W)
Don’t be fooled by the saloon-like doors, there’s a typical Portuguese tasca (tavern) inside: homey local cuisine, blue-and-white-tiled walls, chequered tablecloths – and it’s one of Lisbon’s best. The house-baked cod loaded with chickpeas, onions, garlic and olive oil is rightfully popular, and daily specials (duck rice on Wednesday!) make return trips tempting. Service is a lost cause, however.
Último PortoSeafood€€
(%308 808 939; Estação Marítima da Rocha do Conde de Óbidos; mains €8.50-17; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Sat)
An absolute local’s secret for a reason, this top seafooder takes an act of God to find. Hidden among the shipping-container cranes of the Port of Lisbon, fantastically simple grilled fish paired with top Alentejan and Douro wines draw locals in droves. With shipping containers and departmental port buildings framing the ambience, María do Céu oversees a parking-lot-style grill.
Bairro de AvillezPortuguese€€
(map Google map; %215 830 290; www.bairrodoavillez.pt; Rua Nova da Trindade 18; small plates €2-16.50, mains €7-18.50; hnoon-midnight; W)
Step into the latest culinary dream by Portugal’s most famous chef – Michelin-starred maestro José Avillez – who has set up his gastronomic dream destination as a ‘neighbourhood’ featuring several dining environments, including everything from a traditional tavern to an avant-garde gourmet cabaret.
AlmaModern Portuguese€€€
(map Google map; %213 470 650; www.almalisboa.pt; Rua Anchieta 15; mains €32-36, tasting menus €110-120; hnoon-3pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sun; W)
Two-Michelin-starred Henrique Sá Pessoa’s flagship Alma is one of Portugal’s destination restaurants and, in our humble opinion, Lisbon’s best gourmet dining experience. The casual space exudes understated style amid the original stone flooring and gorgeous hardwood tables, but it’s Pessoa’s outrageously good nouveau Portuguese cuisine that draws the foodie flock from far and wide.
FeitoriaModern Portuguese€€€
(%210 400 208; www.restaurantefeitoria.com; Altis Belém Hotel, Doca do Bom Sucesso; mains €39-40, tasting menus €85-135, with wine €130-195; h7.30-10pm Mon-Sat; W)
A defining dining experience awaits at chef João Rodrigues’ slick, contemporary, Michelin-starred restaurant overlooking the riverfront. Rich textures and clean, bright flavours dominate throughout three tasting menus, which showcase Portugal’s rich and vibrant bounty. Pigeon with wild mushrooms, foie gras and truffles, Algarve scarlet shrimp and Iberian pork neck progressively exhilarate with every bite.
A Market Lunch
Doing trade in fresh fruit and veg, fish and flowers since 1892, domed market hall Mercado da Ribeira (map Google map; www.timeoutmarket.com; Av 24 de Julho; h10am-midnight Sun-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat, traditional market 6am-2pm Mon-Sat; W) is a gourmet food court and chaotic culinary microcosm: Garrafeira Nacional wines, Café de São Bento steaks, Manteigaria Silva cold cuts and Michelin-star chef creations from Henrique Sá Pessoa. Browse in the morning followed by lunch at a kiosk here. In Baixa, tented market-cum-glorious food court Mercado da Baixa (map Google map; www.adbaixapombalina.pt/mercado-da-baixa; Praça da Figueira; h10am-10pm Fri-Sun last weekend of month), c 1855, is the foodie hot spot to drool over cheese, wine, smoked sausages and other gourmet goodies, and to eat, drink and lunch.
6Drinking & Nightlife
ParkBar
(map Google map; www.facebook.com/parklisboaofficial; Calçada do Combro 58; h1pm-2am Tue-Sat, to 8pm Sun; W)
If only all multistorey car parks were like this… Take the lift to the 5th floor, and head up and around to the top, which has been transformed into one of Lisbon’s hippest rooftop bars, with sweeping views reaching right down to the Rio Tejo and over the bell towers of Igreja de Santa Catarina.
BA Wine Bar do Bairro AltoWine Bar
(map Google map; %213 461 182; bawinebar@gmail.com; Rua da Rosa 107; h6-11pm Tue-Sun; W)
Reserve ahead unless you want to get shut out of Bairro Alto’s best wine bar, where the genuinely welcoming staff will offer you three fantastic tasting choices based on your wine proclivities (wines from €5; tasting boards for one/four €13/47). The cheeses (from small artisanal producers) and charcuterie (melt-in-your-mouth black-pork presuntos) are not to be missed, either. Reservations are essential.
Cinco LoungeLounge
(map Google map; www.cincolounge.com; Rua Ruben António Leitão 17; h9pm-2am)
Take an award-winning London-born mixologist, Dave Palethorpe, add a candlelit, turquoise-kissed setting and give it a funky twist – et voilà – you have Cinco Lounge. Come here to converse, sip legendary cocktails (€7.50 to €15) or join a cocktail-mixing workshop. Cash only.
FoxtrotBar
(www.barfoxtrot.com; Tv Santa Teresa 28; h6pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat, 8pm-2am Sun; W)
A cuckoo-clock doorbell announces new arrivals to this dark, decadent slither of art-nouveau glamour, in the bar business since 1978. Foxtrot keeps the mood mellow with jazzy beats and excruciatingly attentive mixology detailed on a tracing-paper menu (cocktails €7 to €15). It’s a wonderfully moody spot for a drink.
Cerveteca LisboaCraft Beer
(www.cervetecalisboa.com; Praça das Flores 62; h3.30pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W)
Lisbon’s best craft-beer bar is a boozy godsend: 14 oft-changing taps (including two hand pumps) focusing on local and Northern European artisanal brews, including numerous local microbreweries. Not only will hopheads rejoice at IPAs from Lisbon including standouts such as Dois Corvos and 8ª Colina, but having choice alone inspires cartwheels. Adeus, tasteless lagers!
A GinjinhaBar
(map Google map; Largo de Saõ Domingos 8; h9am-10pm)
Hipsters, old men in flat caps, office workers and tourists all meet at this microscopic ginjinha (cherry liqueur) bar for that moment of cherry-licking, pip-spitting pleasure (€1.40 a shot).
Lux-FrágilClub
(www.luxfragil.com; Av Infante D Henrique, Armazém A, Cais de Pedra; h11pm-6am Thu-Sat)
Lisbon’s ice-cool, must-see club, glammy Lux hosts big-name DJs spinning electro and house. It was started by late Lisbon nightlife impresario Marcel Reis and is part-owned by John Malkovich. Grab a spot on the terrace to see the sun rise over the Rio Tejo, or chill like a king or queen on the throne-like giant interior chairs.
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Top Five Places to Eat
3Entertainment
Hot Clube de PortugalJazz
(map Google map; %213 460 305; www.hcp.pt; Praça da Alegria 48; h10pm-2am Tue-Sat)
As hot as its name suggests, this small, poster-plastered cellar (and newly added garden) has staged top-drawer jazz acts since the 1940s. It’s considered one of Europe’s best.
Mesa de FradesLive Music
(map Google map; %917 029 436; www.facebook.com/mesadefradeslisboa; Rua dos Remédios 139A; prix-fixe shows €50; h8pm-2.30am Mon-Sat)
A magical place to hear fado, tiny Mesa de Frades used to be a chapel. It’s tiled with exquisite azulejos and has just a handful of tables, including a dark and sexy mezzanine level. Shows begin at around 10.30pm.
8INFORMATION
Ask Me Lisboa (%213 463 314; www.askmelisboa.com; Praça dos Restauradores, Palácio Foz; h9am-8pm) Lisbon’s largest and most helpful tourist office faces Praça dos Restauradores inside the Palácio Foz. Has maps and information, and books accommodation and rental cars.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
AIR
Situated around 6km north of the centre, the ultramodern Aeroporto de Lisboa (Lisbon Airport; %218 413 500; www.ana.pt/pt/lis/home; Alameda das Comunidades Portuguesas) operates direct flights to major international hubs including London, New York, Paris and Frankfurt. Low-cost carriers (Norwegian, easyJet, Ryanair, Transavia, Blue Air and Wizz Air) leave from the less efficient Terminal 2 – you’ll need to factor in extra time for the shuttle ride if arriving at the airport on the metro.
BUS
Lisbon’s main long-distance bus terminal is Terminal Rodoviário de Sete Rios (Praça General Humberto Delgado, Rua das Laranjeiras), adjacent to both Jardim Zoológico metro station and Sete Rios train station.
TRAIN
Lisbon is linked by train to other major cities. Check the website of Comboios de Portugal (%707 210 220; www.cp.pt) for schedules – cheaper promo fares are often available online.
8GETTING AROUND
Lisboa Move-me (www.move-me.mobi; iOS/Android) and Lisboa Viagem by Transporlis (Android) are city-transportation apps for real-time routes and arrival/departure times.
Metro Lisbon’s subway is the quickest way around; useful for Gare do Oriente and Parque das Nações. Runs from 6.30am to 1am.
Tram The best way to get up into hilltop neighbourhoods (Alfama, Castelo, Graça) and western neighbourhoods (Estrela, Campo de Ourique). Runs from 5am/6am to about 10pm/11pm.
Bus Particularly good for reaching Príncipe Real.