AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS
Van Gogh Museum
Anne Frank Huis
Sights
Tours
Shopping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Information
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Amsterdam, Netherlands
Amsterdam works its fairy-tale magic in many ways: via the gabled, Golden Age buildings; glinting, boat-filled canals; and especially the cosy, centuries-old bruin cafés (traditional pubs), where candles burn low and beers froth high. Add in mega art museums and cool street markets, and it’s easy to see why this atmospheric city is one of Europe’s most popular getaways.
Two Days in Amsterdam
Ogle the masterpieces at the Van Gogh Museum and Rijksmuseum in the Old South and spend the afternoon in the city centre at the Begijnhof or Royal Palace. At night venture into the eye-popping Red Light District, then sip in a bruin café such as In ‘t Aepjen.
Start the next day at the Albert Cuypmarkt then head to the Southern Canal Ring for a canal boat tour. At night party at hyperactive Leidseplein.
Four Days in Amsterdam
On day three head to the haunting Anne Frank Huis and spend the evening in the Jordaan for dinner and canal-side drinks.
Begin your fourth day at Museum het Rembrandthuis or cycling around Vondelpark, then mosey over to organic brewery Brouwerij ‘t IJ, at the foot of a windmill.
After Amsterdam, hop on a train to Paris, a mere 3¼ hours away, or fly just over an hour to Copenhagen.
Arriving in Amsterdam
Schiphol Airport Trains to Centraal Station depart every 10 minutes or so from 6am to 12.30am. The trip takes 17 minutes and costs €5.20; taxis cost around €40.
Centraal Station Located in central Amsterdam. Most tram lines connect it to the rest of the city. Taxis queue near the front entrance.
Duivendrecht station Eurolines buses arrive here, south of the centre. Easy links to Centraal Station.
Where to Stay
Amsterdam has loads of accommodation in wild and wonderful spaces: inspired architects have breathed new life into old buildings, from converted schools and industrial lofts to entire rows of canal houses joined at the hip. Many lodgings overlook gorgeous waterways or courtyards.
Hostels are plentiful, with most geared to youthful party animals. Hotels typically are small and ramble over several floors in charming old buildings.
Reserve as far ahead as possible, especially for summer bookings and weekends any time.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Van Gogh Museum
The world’s largest Van Gogh collection is a superb line-up of masterworks. Opened in 1973 to house the collection of Vincent’s younger brother, Theo, the museum comprises some 200 paintings and 500 drawings by Vincent and his contemporaries.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The Potato Eaters, The Yellow House, Wheatfield with Crows and Sunflowers.
8Need to Know
map Google map; 
%020-570 52 00; www.vangoghmuseum.nl; Museumplein 6; adult/child €19/free, audioguide €5/3; 
h9am-7pm Sun-Thu, to 9pm Fri & Sat late Jun-Aug, 9am-6pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri Sep-late Oct & May-late Jun, 9am-5pm Sat-Thu, to 9pm Fri Nov-Mar; 
j2/3/5/12 Van Baerlestraat
5Take a Break
Nibble on quiche and sip wine at the museum cafe; window tables overlook the Museumplein.
oTop Tip
To cut queues, visit after 3pm or Friday evening when the museum is open late.
Visit Planner
Allow at least a couple of hours to browse the galleries, spread across four floors. The multimedia audio guide (adult/child €5/3) is helpful, as is the family version aimed at those with children aged six to 12 years; reserve online when purchasing your ticket.
Potato Eaters
Van Gogh’s earliest works – shadowy and crude – are from his time in the Dutch countryside and in Antwerp between 1883 and 1885. He was particularly obsessed with peasants. The Potato Eaters (1885) is his most famous painting from this period.
Bible & Skeleton
Still Life with Bible (1885) is another early work, and it shows Van Gogh’s religious inclination. The burnt-out candle is said to represent the recent death of his father, who was a Protestant minister. Skeleton with Burning Cigarette (1886) was painted when Van Gogh was a student at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts.
Shoes
Who’d have thought a pair of tatty old Shoes (1886) could be a masterpiece? Van Gogh bought the boots at a flea market then traipsed through mud until they were ‘suitable’ to paint.
Self-portraits
In 1886 Van Gogh moved to Paris, where his brother, Theo, was working as an art dealer. Vincent wanted to master the art of portraiture, but was too poor to pay for models. Several self-portraits resulted. You can see his palette begin to brighten as he comes under the influence of the Parisian Impressionists.
Sketchbooks & Letters
Intriguing displays enhance what’s on the walls. For instance, you might see Van Gogh’s actual sketchbook alongside an interactive kiosk that lets you page through a reproduction of it or listen to recordings of Van Gogh’s diverse letters to and from his closest brother Theo, who championed his work. The museum has categorised all of Van Gogh’s letters online at www.vangoghletters.org.
Other Artists
Thanks to Theo van Gogh’s prescient collecting and that of the museum’s curators, you’ll also see works by Vincent’s contemporaries, including Paul Gauguin, Claude Monet and Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Anne Frank Huis
It is one of the 20th century’s most compelling stories: a young Jewish girl forced into hiding with her family and their friends to escape deportation by the Nazis. Walking through the bookcase-door means stepping back into a time that seems both distant and tragically real.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Details including Anne’s red-plaid diary, WWII newsreels and a video of Anne’s schoolmate Hanneli Goslar.
8Need to Know
%020-556 71 05; www.annefrank.org; Prinsengracht 263-267; adult/child €10.50/5.50; h9am-10pm Apr-Oct, 9am-7pm Sun-Fri, to 10pm Sat Nov-Mar; j13/17 Westermarkt
5Take a Break
For pancakes and 18th-century atmosphere aplenty, stroll over to ʼt Smalle.
oTop Tip
Tickets are not sold at the door. Buy timed-entry tickets from two months in advance online.
Background
It took the German army just five days to occupy all of the Netherlands, along with Belgium and much of France. Once Hitler’s forces had swept across the country, many Jews – like Anne Frank and her family – went into hiding. Anne’s diary describes how restrictions were gradually imposed on Dutch Jews: from being forbidden to ride streetcars to being forced to turn in their bicycles and not being allowed to visit Christian friends.
The Franks moved into the upper floors of the specially prepared rear of the building, with another couple, the Van Pels (called the Van Daans in Anne’s diary), and their son Peter. Four months later Fritz Pfeffer (called Mr Dussel in the diary) joined the household. Here they survived until the Gestapo discovered them in August 1944.
Ground Floor
After several renovations, the house itself is now contained within a modern, square shell that attempts to retain the original feel of the building (it was used during WWII as offices and a warehouse). Renovations in 2018 shifted the museum entrance around the corner to Westermarkt 20.
Offices & Warehouse
The building originally held Otto Frank’s pectin (a substance used in jelly-making) business. On the lower floors you’ll see the former offices of Victor Kugler, Otto’s business partner; and the desks of Miep Gies, Bep Voskuijl and Jo Kleiman, all of whom worked in the office and provided food, clothing and other goods for the household.
Secret Annexe
The upper floors in the achterhuis (rear house) contain the Secret Annexe, where the living quarters are preserved in powerful austerity. As you enter Anne’s bedroom, you can sense the remnants of a young girl’s dreams: view photos of Hollywood stars and postcards of the Dutch royal family pasted on the wall.
The Diary
More haunting exhibits and videos await you in the front house – including Anne’s red-plaid diary in a glass case. View other notebooks in which Anne wrote down favourite quotes and penned short stories. Watch the video of Anne’s old schoolmate Hanneli Goslar, who describes encountering Anne at Bergen-Belsen. Read heartbreaking letters from Otto, the only Secret Annexe occupant to survive the concentration camps.
1Sights
RijksmuseumMuseum
(map Google map; National Museum; %020-674 70 00; www.rijksmuseum.nl; Museumstraat 1; adult/child €20/free; h9am-5pm; j2/5/12 Rijksmuseum)
The Rijksmuseum is among the world’s finest art museums, packing in works by local heroes Rembrandt, Vermeer and Van Gogh as well as other masterpieces in the 8000 works on display over 1.5km of galleries. To avoid the biggest crowds, come before 10am or after 3pm. Start on the 2nd floor in the Gallery of Honour with the astounding Golden Age works. Prebooking tickets online provides fast-track entry.
Museum het RembrandthuisMuseum
(map Google map; Rembrandt House Museum; %020-520 04 00; www.rembrandthuis.nl; Jodenbreestraat 4; adult/child €14/5; h10am-6pm; 
mWaterlooplein)
This evocative museum is housed in Rembrandt’s former home, where the master painter spent his most successful years, painting big commissions such as The Night Watch and running the Netherlands’ largest painting studio. It wasn’t to last, however: his work fell out of fashion, he had some expensive relationship problems and bankruptcy came a-knocking. The inventory drawn up when he had to leave the house is the reason that curators have been able to refurnish the house so faithfully.
VondelparkPark
(map Google map; www.hetvondelpark.net; j12 Van Baerlstraat, 5 Museumplein)
A private park for the wealthy until 1953, Vondelpark now occupies a special place in Amsterdam’s heart. It’s a magical escape, but also supplies a busy social scene, encompassing cycle ways, pristine lawns, ponds with swans, quaint cafes, footbridges and winding footpaths. On a sunny day, an open-air party atmosphere ensues when tourists, lovers, cyclists, in-line skaters, pram-pushing parents, cartwheeling children, football-kicking teenagers, spliff-sharing friends and champagne-swilling picnickers all come out to play.
Stedelijk MuseumMuseum
(map Google map; %020-573 29 11; www.stedelijk.nl; Museumplein 10; adult/child €18.50/free; h10am-6pm, to 10pm Fri; j2/3/5/12 Van Baerlestraat)
This fabulous museum houses the collection amassed by postwar curator Willem Sandberg. The ground-floor Stedelijk Base exhibition displays a rotating selection of the amazing collection’s highlights, featuring works by Picasso, Matisse, Mondrian, Van Gogh, Rothko, Jeff Koons, Yves Klein, Lichtenstein, Yayoi Kusama and more, plus an exuberant Karel Appel mural. The museum also hosts excellent temporary exhibitions. The free in-depth audioguide is fantastic and there are themed guided tours; book online. Unlike other museums in the area, you seldom have to queue.
Royal PalacePalace
(map Google map; Koninklijk Paleis; %020-522 61 61; www.paleisamsterdam.nl; Dam; adult/child €10/free; h10am-5pm; j4/14/24 Dam)
Opened as a town hall in 1655, this resplendent building became a palace in the 19th century. The interiors gleam, especially the marble work – at its best in a floor inlaid with maps of the world in the great burgerzaal (citizens’ hall) at the heart of the building. Pick up a free audioguide at the desk when you enter; it explains everything you’ll see in vivid detail. King Willem-Alexander uses the palace only for ceremonies; check for periodic closures.
A’DAM TowerNotable Building
(map Google map; www.adamlookout.com; Overhoeksplein 1; lookout adult/child/family €13.50/7.50/32, swing €5 extra; hlookout 10am-10pm, last admission 9pm; 
fBuiksloterweg)
The 22-storey A’DAM Tower used to be the Royal Dutch Shell oil company offices, but has had a makeover to become one of Amsterdam’s biggest attractions. Take the trippy lift to the rooftop for awe-inspiring views in all directions, with a giant six-person swing that kicks out over the edge for those who have a head for heights (you’re well secured and strapped in).
Hermitage AmsterdamMuseum
(map Google map; %020-530 87 55; www.hermitage.nl; Amstel 51; single exhibitions adult/child €18/free, all exhibitions adult/child €25/free; h10am-5pm; mWaterlooplein, jWaterlooplein)
There have long been links between Russia and the Netherlands – Tsar Peter the Great learned shipbuilding here in 1697 – hence this branch of St Petersburg’s State Hermitage Museum. Blockbuster temporary exhibitions show works from the Hermitage’s vast treasure trove, while the permanent Portrait Gallery of the Golden Age has formal group portraits of the 17th-century Dutch A-list; the Outsider Gallery also has temporary shows. I Amsterdam and Museum cards allow free entrance or a discount, depending on the exhibition.
Museum Willet-HolthuysenMuseum
(map Google map; %020-523 18 70; www.willetholthuysen.nl; Herengracht 605; adult/child €12.50/free; h10am-5pm; j4/14 Rembrandtplein)
This exquisite canal house was built in 1687 for Amsterdam mayor Jacob Hop, then remodelled in 1739. It’s named after Louisa Willet-Holthuysen, who inherited the house from her coal-and-glass-merchant father and lived a lavish, bohemian life here with her husband. She bequeathed the property to the city in 1895. With displays including part of the family’s 275-piece Meissen table service, and an immaculate French-style garden, the museum is a fascinating window into the world of the 19th-century super-rich.
Albert CuypmarktMarket
(map Google map; www.albertcuyp-markt.amsterdam; Albert Cuypstraat, btwn Ferdinand Bolstraat & Van Woustraat; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; mDe Pijp, j24 Marie Heinekenplein)
Some 260 stalls fill the Albert Cuypmarkt, Amsterdam’s largest and busiest market. Vendors loudly tout their array of gadgets, homewares, and flowers, fruit, vegetables, herbs and spices. Many sell clothes and other goods, too, and they’re often cheaper than anywhere else. Snack vendors tempt passers-by with raw-herring sandwiches, frites (fries), poffertjes (tiny Dutch pancakes dusted with icing sugar) and caramel syrup–filled stroopwafels. If you have room after all that, the surrounding area teems with cosy cafés (pubs) and restaurants.
EYE Film InstituteMuseum, Cinema
(map Google map; %020-589 14 00; www.eyefilm.nl; IJpromenade 1; adult/child exhibitions €11/free, films €11/7.50; h10am-7pm exhibitions; fBuiksloterweg)
At this modernist architectural triumph that seems to balance on its edge on the banks of the IJ (also pronounced ‘eye’) River, the institute screens movies from the 40,000-title archive in four theatres, sometimes with live music. Exhibitions of costumes, digital art and other cinephile amusements run in conjunction with what’s playing. A view-tastic bar-restaurant with a fabulously sunny terrace (when the sun makes an appearance) is a popular hang-out on this side of the river.
On the Edge: NDSM-werf
Fifteen minutes upriver from the city centre NDSM-werf (www.ndsm.nl; NDSM-plein; fNDSM-werf) is a derelict shipyard turned edgy arts community. It wafts a post-apocalyptic vibe: an old submarine slumps in the harbour, abandoned trams rust by the water’s edge, and street art is splashed around on most surfaces. Young creatives hang out at the smattering of cool cafes. Hip businesses like MTV and Red Bull have their European headquarters here. The area is also a centre for underground culture and events, such as the Over het IJ Festival. A new street-art museum, billed as the world’s largest, is due to open here in late 2019; check www.streetart.today for updates.
TTours
Amsterdam has more canals than Venice and getting on the water is one of the best ways to feel the pulse of the city.
Rederji LampedusaBoating
(map Google map; http://rederjilampedusa.nl; Dijksgracht 6; 2hr canal tour €19; hcanal tours 11am & 1.30pm Sat May-Sep; j26 Muziekgebouw)
Take a two-hour canal-boat tour around Amsterdam harbour in former refugee boats, brought from Lampedusa by Dutch founder Tuen. The tours are full of heart and offer a fascinating insight, not only into stories of contemporary migration, but also about how immigration shaped Amsterdam’s history – especially the canal tour. Departs from next to Mediamatic.
Wetlands SafariBoating
(map Google map; %06 5355 2669; www.wetlandssafari.nl; incl transport & picnic adult/child €64/35; h9.30am Mon-Fri, 10am Sat & Sun early Apr-Sep; j2/4/11/12/13/14/17/24/26 Centraal Station)
For a change from Amsterdam’s canals, book a five-hour wetlands boat trip. Participants take a bus to just north of the centre, then canoe through boggy, froggy wetlands and on past windmills and 17th-century villages. Departure is from behind Centraal Station at the ‘G’ bus stop. Four-hour sunset tours (adult/child €54/33) depart at 5pm from early May to late August.
7Shopping
The busiest shopping streets are Kalverstraat by the Dam and Leidsestraat, which leads into Leidseplein. Near Vondelpark, stylish fashion boutiques line Cornelis Schuytstraat and Willemsparkweg.
Moooi GalleryDesign
(map Google map; %020-528 77 60; www.moooi.com; Westerstraat 187; h10am-6pm Tue-Sat; j3/5 Marnixplein)
Founded by Marcel Wanders, this gallery-shop features Dutch design at its most over-the-top, from the life-size black horse lamp to the ‘blow-away vase’ (a whimsical twist on the classic Delft vase) and the ‘killing of the piggy bank’ ceramic pig (with a gold hammer).
HutspotDesign
(map Google map; www.hutspot.com; Van Woustraat 4; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun; 
W; j4 Stadhouderskade)
Named after the Dutch dish of boiled and mashed veggies, ‘Hotchpotch’ was founded with a mission to give young entrepreneurs the chance to sell their work. As a result, this concept store is an inspired mishmash of Dutch-designed furniture, furnishings, art, homewares and clothing as well as an in-house cafe, a barber, a photo booth and various pop-ups.
Negen StraatjesArea
(map Google map; Nine Streets; www.de9straatjes.nl; j2/11/12 Spui)
In a city packed with countless shopping opportunities, each seemingly more alluring than the last, the Negen Straatjes represent the very densest concentration of consumer pleasures. These ‘nine little streets’ are indeed small, each just a block long. The shops are tiny too, and many are highly specialised. Eyeglasses? Cheese? Single-edition art books? Each has its own dedicated boutique.
Lindengracht MarketMarket
(map Google map; www.jordaanmarkten.nl; Lindengracht; h9am-4pm Sat; j3 Nieuwe Willemsstraat)
Dating from 1895, Saturday’s Lindengracht Market is a wonderfully local affair, with 232 stalls selling fresh produce, including fish and a magnificent array of cheese, as well as Dutch delicacies like stroopwafels, flowers, clothing and homewares. Arrive as early as possible to beat the crowds.
VliegerStationery
(map Google map; %020-623 58 34; www.vliegerpapier.nl; Amstel 34; hnoon-6pm Mon, from 9am Tue-Fri, 11am-5.30pm Sat; j4/14 Rembrandtplein)
Love stationery and paper? Make a beeline for Vlieger. Since 1869, this two-storey shop has been supplying it all: Egyptian papyrus, beautiful handmade papers from Asia and Central America, papers inlaid with flower petals or bamboo, and paper textured like snakeskin.
5Eating
VleminckxFast Food€
(map Google map; www.vleminckxdesausmeester.nl; Voetboogstraat 33; fries €3-5, sauces €0.70; hnoon-7pm Mon, 11am-7pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, 11am-8pm Thu; j2/11/12 Koningsplein)
Frying up frites (fries) since 1887, Amsterdam’s best friterie has been based at this hole-in-the-wall takeaway shack near the Spui since 1957. The standard order of perfectly cooked crispy, fluffy frites is smothered in mayonnaise, though its 28 sauces also include apple, green pepper, ketchup, peanut, sambal and mustard. Queues almost always stretch down the block, but they move fast.
FoodhallenFood Hall€
(map Google map; www.foodhallen.nl; De Hallen, Hannie Dankbaar Passage 3; dishes €3-20; h11am-11.30pm Sun-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat; 
c; j7/17 Ten Katestraat)
This glorious international food hall in soaring ex-tram sheds has food stands surrounding an airy open-plan eating area. Some are offshoots of popular Amsterdam eateries and breweries. Look out for Viet View Vietnamese street food and Jabugo Iberico Bar ham, and the Beer Bar, serving real ale tipples from local heroes 2 Chefs and Oedipus.
GartineCafe€
(map Google map; %020-320 41 32; www.gartine.nl; Taksteeg 7; dishes €6.50-15, high tea €18-25.50; h10am-6pm Wed-Sat; 
v; mRokin, j4/14/24 Rokin) 
S
Gartine is magical, from its covert location in an alley off busy Kalverstraat to its mismatched antique tableware and its sublime breakfast pastries (including a dark-chocolate, honey and raspberry soufflé), sandwiches and salads (made from produce grown in its garden plot and eggs from its chickens). The sweet-and-savoury high tea, from 2pm to 5pm, is a treat.
De Laatste KruimelCafe, Bakery€
(map Google map; %020-423 04 99; www.delaatstekruimel.nl; Langebrugsteeg 4; dishes €3-10.50; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, from 9am Sun; mRokin, j4/14/24 Rokin)
Decorated with vintage finds from the Noordermarkt and wooden pallets upcycled as furniture, and opening to a tiny canal-side terrace, the ‘Last Crumb’ has glass display cases filled with pies, quiches, breads, cakes and lemon-and-poppy-seed scones. Grandmothers, children, couples on dates and just about everyone else crowd in for sweet treats and fantastic organic sandwiches.
Bakers & RoastersCafe€
(map Google map; www.bakersandroasters.com; 1e Jacob van Campenstraat 54; dishes €9-16.50; h8.30am-4pm; W; j24 Marie Heinekenplein)
Sumptuous brunch dishes served up at Brazilian-Kiwi-owned Bakers & Roasters include banana-nutbread French toast with homemade banana marmalade and crispy bacon; Navajo eggs with pulled pork, avocado, mango salsa and chipotle cream; and a smoked-salmon stack with poached eggs, potato cakes and hollandaise. Wash your choice down with a fiery Bloody Mary. Fantastic pies, cakes and slices, too.
Van DobbenDutch€
(map Google map; %020-624 42 00; www.eetsalonvandobben.nl; Korte Reguliersdwarsstraat 5-9; dishes €3-8; h10am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat, 10.30am-8pm Sun; j4/14 Rembrandtplein)
Open since the 1940s, Van Dobben has a cool diner feel, with white tiles and a siren-red ceiling. Traditional meaty Dutch fare is its forte: low-priced, finely sliced roast-beef sandwiches with mustard are an old-fashioned joy, or try the pekelvlees (akin to corned beef) or halfom (if you’re keen on pekelvlees mixed with liver).
Balthazar’s KeukenMediterranean€€
(map Google map; %020-420 21 14; www.balthazarskeuken.nl; Elandsgracht 108; 3-course menu €34.50; h6-10.30pm Tue-Sun; j5/7/19 Elandsgracht)
In a former blacksmith’s forge, with a modern-rustic look and an open kitchen, this is consistently one of Amsterdam’s top-rated restaurants. Don’t expect a wide-ranging menu: the philosophy is basically ‘whatever we have on hand’, which might mean sea bass and crab gnocchi or rabbit with sauerkraut jelly and pear sauce, but it’s invariably delectable. Reservations recommended.
D’Vijff VlieghenDutch€€
(map Google map; %020-530 40 60; www.vijffvlieghen.nl; Spuistraat 294-302; mains €19.50-26.50; h6-10pm; j2/11/12 Spui)
Spread across five 17th-century canal houses, the ‘Five Flies’ is a jewel. Old-wood dining rooms overflow with character, featuring Delft-blue tiles and original works by Rembrandt; chairs have copper plates inscribed with the names of famous guests (Walt Disney, Mick Jagger…). Exquisite dishes range from smoked goose breast with apple to roast veal and turnips with Dutch crab mayonnaise.
De BelhamelEuropean€€
(map Google map; %020-622 10 95; www.belhamel.nl; Brouwersgracht 60; mains €24-26, 3-/4-course menus €38/48; hnoon-4pm & 5.30-10pm; 
g18/21/22 Buiten Brouwersstraat)
In warm weather the canal-side tables here at the head of the Herengracht are enchanting, and the richly wallpapered art-nouveau interior set over two levels provides the perfect backdrop for exquisitely presented dishes such as poached sole with wild-spinach bisque, veal sweetbreads with polenta and spring onion jus, or a half lobster with velvety truffle mayonnaise.
MariusEuropean€€€
(%020-422 78 80; www.restaurantmarius.nl; Barentszstraat 173; 4-course menu €49; h6.30-10pm Mon-Sat; j3 Zoutkeetsgracht)
Foodies swoon over pocket-sized Marius, tucked amid artists’ studios in the Western Islands. Chef Kees Elfring shops at local markets, then creates his daily four-course, no-choice menu from what he finds. The result might be grilled prawns with fava-bean purée or beef rib with polenta and ratatouille. Marius also runs the fabulous wine and tapas bar Worst Wijncafe (%020-625 61 67; www.deworst.nl; Barentszstraat 171; tapas €9-17, brunch mains €9-13; hnoon-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-10pm Sun; j3 Zoutkeetsgracht) next door.
GreetjeDutch€€€
(map Google map; %020-779 74 50; www.restaurantgreetje.nl; Peperstraat 23-25; mains €24-29; h6-10pm; g22/48 Prins Hendrikkade) S
Greetje is Amsterdam’s most creative Dutch restaurant, using the best seasonal produce to resurrect and re-create traditional Dutch recipes, like slow-cooked veal with Dutch brandy–marinated apricots, and suckling pork in apple syrup with Dutch mustard sauce. The tasting menu (€55) starts off with the Big Beginning, a selection of six starters served high-tea style.
Ciel BleuGastronomy€€€
(map Google map; %020-678 74 50; www.cielbleu.nl; Hotel Okura Amsterdam, Ferdinand Bolstraat 333; tasting menus from €195; h6.30-10pm Mon-Sat; j4/12 Cornelius Troostplein)
Mind-blowing, two-Michelin-star creations at this pinnacle of gastronomy change with the seasons; spring, for instance, might see scallops and oysters with vanilla sea salt and gin-and-tonic foam, king crab with salted lemon, beurre blanc ice cream and caviar, or salt-crusted pigeon with pomegranate jelly and pistachio dust. Also incomparable is the 23rd-floor setting with aerial views north across the city.
If your budget doesn’t stretch to dining here, try the bar snacks at the adjacent Twenty Third Bar (map Google map; www.okura.nl; Hotel Okura Amsterdam, Ferdinand Bolstraat 333; h6pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; j12 Cornelius Troostplein).
Green City
Amsterdam’s forest, Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest; www.amsterdamsebos.nl; Bosbaanweg 5; h24hr; mVan Boshuizenstraat, g347, 357), is a vast swathe (roughly 1000 hectares) of almost countryside, 20 minutes by bike south of Vondelpark. It was planted in 1934 in order to provide employment during the Great Depression. Its lakes, woods and meadows are crisscrossed by paths and dotted with cafes. You can rent bicycles, feed baby goats in spring, take a horse-riding lesson, boat the rural-feeling waterways, see a play at the open-air theatre and ascend to the treetops in the climbing park.
It’s a glorious place to go with kids, though best if you explore by bike due to its size. There’s a bike rental kiosk across from the forest entrance and a visitor centre with information. In the densest thickets you forget you’re near a city at all (though you’re right by Schiphol airport). A lot of locals use the park, but it rarely feels crowded.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Bars, clubs and live-music venues fan out around nightlife hubs Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein, ensnared within the Southern Canal Ring.
In ʼt AepjenBrown Cafe
(map Google map; Zeedijk 1; hnoon-1am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; j2/4/11/12/13/14/17/24/26 Centraal Station)
Candles burn even during the day in this 15th-century building – one of two remaining wooden buildings in the city – which has been a tavern since 1519: in the 16th and 17th centuries it served as an inn for sailors from the Far East, who often brought aapjes (monkeys) to trade for lodging. Vintage jazz on the stereo enhances the time-warp feel.
’t SmalleBrown Cafe
(map Google map; www.t-smalle.nl; Egelantiersgracht 12; h10am-1am Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; j13/17 Westermarkt)
Dating back to 1786 as a jenever (Dutch gin) distillery and tasting house, and restored during the 1970s with antique porcelain beer pumps and lead-framed windows, locals’ favourite ‘t Smalle is one of Amsterdam’s most charming bruin cafés. Dock your boat right by the pretty stone terrace, which is wonderfully convivial by day and impossibly romantic at night.
SkyLoungeCocktail Bar
(map Google map; %020-530 08 75; www.skyloungeamsterdam.com; Oosterdoksstraat 4; h11am-1am Sun-Tue, to 2am Wed & Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; W; j4/12/14/24/26 Centraal Station)
With wow-factor views whatever the weather, this bar offers a 360-degree panorama of Amsterdam from the 11th floor of the DoubleTree Amsterdam Centraal Station hotel – and it just gets better when you head out to its vast SkyTerrace, with an outdoor bar. Toast the view with a huge range of cocktails, craft beers and spirits. DJs regularly hit the decks from 9pm.
Brouwerij ‘t IJBrewery
(www.brouwerijhetij.nl; Funenkade 7; hbrewery 2-8pm, English tour 3.30pm Fri-Sun; j7 Hoogte Kadijk) S
Can you get more Dutch than drinking a craft beer beneath the creaking sails of the 1725-built De Gooyer Windmill? This is Amsterdam’s leading microbrewery, with delicious standard, seasonal and limited-edition brews; try the smooth, fruity ‘tripel’ Zatte, their first creation back in 1985. Enjoy yours in the tiled tasting room, lined by an amazing bottle collection, or the plane-tree-shaded terrace.
Wynand FockinkDistillery
(map Google map; %020-639 26 95; www.wynand-fockink.nl; Pijlsteeg 31; tours €17.50; htasting tavern 2-9pm daily, tours 3pm, 4.30pm, 6pm & 7.30pm Sat & Sun; j4/14/24 Dam)
Dating from 1679, this small tasting house in an arcade behind NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky serves scores of jenevers (Dutch gins) and liqueurs. Although there’s no seating, it’s an intimate place to knock back a shot glass or two. At weekends, guides give 45-minute distillery tours (in English) that are followed by six tastings; reserve online.
PllekBar
(www.pllek.nl; TT Neveritaweg 59; h9.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; fNDSM-werf)
Uber-cool Pllek is a Noord magnet, with hip things of all ages streaming over to hang out in its interior made of old shipping containers and lie out on its artificial sandy beach when the weather allows. It’s a terrific spot for a waterfront beer or glass of wine.
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Top Five Museums
3Entertainment
Amsterdam supports a flourishing arts scene, with loads of big concert halls, theatres, cinemas, comedy clubs and other performance venues filled on a regular basis. Music fans are superbly catered for here, and there is a fervent subculture for just about every genre, especially jazz, classical, rock and avant-garde beats.
ConcertgebouwClassical Music
(map Google map; Concert Hall; %020-671 83 45; www.concertgebouw.nl; Concertgebouwplein 10; hbox office 1-7pm Mon-Fri, from 10am Sat & Sun; j3/5/12 Museumplein)
The Concert Hall was built in 1888 by AL van Gendt, who managed to engineer its near-perfect acoustics. Bernard Haitink, former conductor of the Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, remarked that the world-famous hall was the orchestra’s best instrument. Free half-hour concerts take place Wednesdays at 12.30pm from September to June; arrive early. Try the Last Minute Ticket Shop (www.lastminuteticketshop.nl; honline ticket sales from 10am on day of performance) for half-price seats to selected performances.
BitterzoetLive Music
(map Google map; %020-421 23 18; www.bitterzoet.com; Spuistraat 2; h8pm-late; j2/11/12/5/13/17 Nieuwezijds Kolk)
Always full, always changing, this venue with a capacity of just 350 people is one of the friendliest places in town, with a diverse crowd. Music (sometimes live, sometimes courtesy of a DJ) can be funk, roots, drum ‘n’ bass, Latin, Afro-beat, old-school jazz or hip-hop groove.
8INFORMATION
I Amsterdam Visitor Centre (%020-702 60 00; www.iamsterdam.com; Stationsplein 10; h9am-6pm; j2/4/11/12/13/14/17/24/26 Centraal Station) Located outside Centraal Station.
I Amsterdam Visitor Centre Schiphol (www.iamsterdam.com; h7am-10pm) Inside Schiphol International Airport in the Arrivals 2 hall.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
Schiphol International Airport (AMS; www.schiphol.nl) is among Europe’s busiest airports and has copious air links worldwide, including many on low-cost European airlines.
National and international trains arrive at Centraal Station (Stationsplein; j2/4/11/12/13/14/17/24/26 Centraal Station). There are good links with several European cities. For information on international trains (including ICE), see NS International (www.nsinternational.nl).
Buses operated by Eurolines (www.eurolines.com) and FlixBus (www.flixbus.com) connect Amsterdam with all major European capitals and numerous smaller destinations.
8GETTING AROUND
GVB passes in chip-card form are the most convenient option for public transport. Buy them at GVB ticket offices or visitor centres. Tickets aren’t sold on board. Always wave your card at the pink machine when entering and departing.
Walking Central Amsterdam is compact and very easy to cover by foot.
Bicycle This is the locals’ main mode of getting around. Rental companies are all over town; bikes cost about €12 per day.
Tram Fast, frequent and ubiquitous, operating between 6am and 12.30am.
Bus and metro Primarily serve the outer districts; not much use in the city centre.
Ferry Free ferries depart for northern Amsterdam from docks behind Centraal Station.
Taxi Expensive and not very speedy given Amsterdam’s maze of streets.
Jordaan Dining Up High
Though gentrified today, the Jordaan neighbourhood was once a rough, densely populated volksbuurt (district for the common people) until the mid-20th century. That history still shows amid the cosy pubs, galleries and markets now squashed into its grid of tiny lanes. For a bird’s-eye view of the industrial docklands head to REM Eiland (%020-688 55 01; www.remeiland.com; Haparandadam 45; mains lunch €8.50-13, dinner €18.50-29.50; hkitchen noon-4pm & 5.30-10pm, bar to 11pm; g48 Koivistokade), a fire-engine-red sea rig towering 22m above the IJ. Built in the 1960s as a pirate radio and TV broadcaster, it’s a top-notch restaurant today, with dining rooms opening onto wrap-around platforms and an outdoor bar filling the rooftop ex-helipad.
