ROME, ITALY
Colosseum
Pantheon
St Peter’s Basilica
Vatican Museums
Roman Forum
Centro Storico Piazzas
Sights
Shopping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Information
Getting There & Away
Getting Around
Rome, Italy
A heady mix of haunting ruins, breathtaking art, vibrant street life and incredible food, Italy’s hot-blooded capital is one of the world’s most romantic and inspiring cities. Ancient icons such as the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Pantheon recall the city’s golden age as caput mundi (capital of the world), while monumental basilicas testify to the role that great popes have played in its history. And Rome’s astonishing artistic heritage is almost unrivalled. A walk around the centre will have you encountering masterpieces by the giants of Western art: sculptures by Michelangelo, canvases by Caravaggio, frescoes by Raphael and fountains by Bernini.
Two Days in Rome
Start early at the Colosseum, then visit the Palatino and Roman Forum. Spend the afternoon in the centro storico (historic centre), exploring Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. On day two, hit the Vatican Museums and St Peter’s Basilica. Afterwards, check out the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain. Round the day off in the Campo de’ Fiori.
Four Days in Rome
Spend day three investigating Villa Borghese – make sure to book for the Museo e Galleria Borghese. End the day with dinner in Trastevere. Next day, admire classical art at the Capitoline Museums before checking out the basilicas on the Esquiline.
Next up? Catch the train to Florence and Tuscany or step back in time at Pompeii.
Arriving in Rome
Leonardo da Vinci (Fiumicino) Airport Half-hourly Leonardo Express trains run to Stazione Termini (€14, 30 minutes). A taxi to the centre is €48.
Ciampino Airport Buses to Stazione Termini 4am to 12.15am, €6; airport-to-hotel shuttles €25 per person; taxis €30.
Stazione Termini Rome’s principal train station.
Where to Stay
Rome has many boutique-style guesthouses offering chic accommodation at midrange to top-end prices. Alternatively, try a pensione (a small family-run hotel with simple rooms, most with private bathroom). Some religious institutions also offer good-value rooms, though many have strict curfews and the rooms are no-frills.
For information on what each Roman neighbourhood has to offer, see the table.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Colosseum
A monument to raw, merciless power, the Colosseum is the most thrilling of Rome’s ancient sights. It was here that gladiators met in mortal combat and condemned prisoners fought off wild beasts in front of baying, bloodthirsty crowds. Two thousand years on and it’s Italy’s top tourist attraction, drawing more than five million visitors a year.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Visit the mysterious underground area (hypogeum) and/or upper floors (Belvedere). These cost €9 (or €15 for both) plus the normal Colosseum ticket.
8Need to Know
Colosseo; 
%06 3996 7700; www.parcocolosseo.it; Piazza del Colosseo; adult/reduced incl Roman Forum & Palatino €12/7.50, SUPER ticket €18/13.50; 
h8.30am-1hr before sunset; 
mColosseo
5Take a Break
Head up to Via Cavour where Cavour 313 (map Google map; %06 678 54 96; www.cavour313.it; Via Cavour 313; h12.30-2.45pm daily & 6-11.30pm Mon-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat, 7-11pm Sun, closed Aug; mCavour) is a good bet for a glass of wine accompanied by platters of cheese and cured meats.
oTop Tip
Beat the queues by buying your ticket at the Palatino (Via di San Gregorio 30).
Built by Vespasian (r AD 69−79) in the grounds of Nero’s vast Domus Aurea complex, the arena was inaugurated in AD 80, eight years after it had been commissioned. To mark the occasion, Vespasian’s son and successor Titus (r AD 79−81) staged games that lasted 100 days and nights, during which 5000 animals were slaughtered. Trajan (r AD 98−117) later topped this, holding a marathon 117-day killing spree involving 9000 gladiators and 10,000 animals.
The 50,000-seat arena was originally known as the Flavian Amphitheatre, and although it was Rome’s most fearsome arena it wasn’t the biggest – the Circo Massimo could hold up to 250,000 people. The name Colosseum, when introduced in medieval times, was a reference not to its size but to the Colosso di Nerone, a giant statue of Nero that stood nearby.
With the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century, the Colosseum was abandoned and gradually became overgrown. In the Middle Ages it served as a fortress for two of the city’s warrior families, the Frangipani and the Annibaldi. Later, during the Renaissance and baroque periods, it was plundered of its precious travertine, and the marble stripped from it was used to make huge palaces such as Palazzo Venezia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Cancelleria.
More recently, pollution and vibrations caused by traffic and the metro have taken their toll, but a €25-million clean-up, the first in its 2000-year history, has once again revealed the creamy hues of the Colosseum walls.
Exterior
The outer walls have three levels of arches, framed by Ionic, Doric and Corinthian columns. These were originally covered in travertine, and marble statues filled the niches on the 2nd and 3rd storeys. The upper level, punctuated with windows and slender Corinthian pilasters, had supports for 240 masts that held up a huge canvas awning over the arena, shielding spectators from sun and rain. The 80 entrance arches, known as vomitoria, allowed the spectators to enter and be seated in a matter of minutes.
Arena
The arena originally had a wooden floor covered in sand to prevent the combatants from slipping and to soak up the blood. It could also be flooded for mock sea battles. Trapdoors led down to the hypogeum, a subterranean complex of corridors, cages and lifts beneath the arena floor.
The Seating
The cavea, for spectator seating, was divided into three tiers: magistrates and senior officials sat in the lowest tier, wealthy citizens in the middle, and the plebeians in the highest tier. Women (except for vestal virgins) were relegated to the cheapest sections at the top. As in modern stadiums, tickets were numbered and spectators assigned a seat in a specific sector. The podium, a broad terrace in front of the tiers of seats, was reserved for the emperor, senators and VIPs.
After a long period of closure, the top three rings, known collectively as the Belvedere, are now open and can be visited on guided tours.
Hypogeum
The hypogeum served as the stadium’s backstage area. Sets for the various battle scenes were prepared here and hoisted up to the arena by a complicated system of pulleys. Caged animals were kept here and gladiators would gather here before showtime, having come in through an underground corridor from the nearby Ludus Magnus (gladiator school).
TOP EXPERIENCE
Pantheon
A striking 2000-year-old temple that’s now a church, the Pantheon is Rome’s best-preserved ancient monument and one of the most influential buildings in the Western world. Its greying, pockmarked exterior may look its age, but inside it’s a different story. It’s a unique and exhilarating experience to pass through the vast bronze doors and gaze up at the largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The 7m-high bronze doors, which provide a suitably grand entrance to your visit.
8Need to Know
map Google map; www.pantheonroma.com; Piazza della Rotonda; h8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; 
gLargo di Torre Argentina 
F
5Take a Break
For an uplifting espresso, try the nearby La Casa del Caffè Tazza d’Oro (map Google map; %06 678 97 92; www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com; Via degli Orfani 84-86; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-7.30pm Sun; gVia del Corso), one of Rome’s finest coffee-houses.
oTop Tip
Mass is celebrated at the Pantheon at 5pm on Saturdays and 10.30am on Sundays.
In its current form the Pantheon dates to around AD 125. The original temple, built by Marcus Agrippa in 27 BC, burnt down in AD 80, and although it was rebuilt by Domitian, it was struck by lightning and destroyed for a second time in AD 110. The emperor Hadrian had it reconstructed between AD 118 and 125, and it’s this version that you see today.
Hadrian’s temple was dedicated to the classical gods – hence the name Pantheon, a derivation of the Greek words pan (all) and theos (god) – but in 608 it was consecrated as a Christian church. It’s now officially known as the Basilica di Santa Maria ad Martyres.
Thanks to this consecration, it was spared the worst of the medieval plundering that reduced many of Rome’s ancient buildings to near dereliction. But it didn’t escape entirely unscathed – its gilded-bronze roof tiles were removed and bronze from the portico was used by Bernini for the baldachino at St Peter’s Basilica.
Exterior
The dark-grey pitted exterior faces onto busy, cafe-lined Piazza della Rotonda. And while its facade is somewhat the worse for wear, it’s still an imposing sight. The monumental entrance portico consists of 16 Corinthian columns, each 13m high and made of Egyptian granite, supporting a triangular pediment. Behind the columns, two 20-tonne bronze doors – 16th-century restorations of the original portal – give onto the central rotunda. Rivets and holes in the building’s brickwork indicate where marble-veneer panels were originally placed.
Inscription
For centuries the inscription under the pediment – M:AGRIPPA.L.F.COS.TERTIUM.FECIT or ‘Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, consul for the third time, built this’ – led scholars to think that the current building was Agrippa’s original temple. However, 19th-century excavations revealed traces of an earlier temple and historians realised that Hadrian had simply kept Agrippa’s original inscription.
Interior
Although impressive from outside, it’s only when you get inside that you can really appreciate the Pantheon’s full size. With light streaming in through the oculus (the 8.7m-diameter hole in the centre of the dome), the cylindrical marble-clad interior seems vast.
Opposite the entrance is the church’s main altar, over which hangs a 7th-century icon of the Madonna col Bambino (Madonna and Child). To the left are the tombs of the artist Raphael, King Umberto I and Margherita of Savoy. Over on the opposite side of the rotunda is the tomb of King Vittorio Emanuele II.
Dome
The Pantheon’s dome, considered to be the Romans’ most important architectural achievement, was the largest dome in the world until Brunelleschi beat it with his Florentine cupola. Its harmonious appearance is due to a precisely calibrated symmetry – its diameter is exactly equal to the building’s interior height of 43.3m. At its centre, the oculus, which symbolically connected the temple with the gods, plays a vital structural role by absorbing and redistributing the dome’s huge tensile forces.
What’s Nearby?
Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra MinervaBasilica
(map Google map; www.santamariasopraminerva.it; Piazza della Minerva 42; h6.55am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Sat, 8.10am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm Sun; gLargo di Torre Argentina)
Built on the site of three pagan temples, including one to the goddess Minerva, the Dominican Basilica di Santa Maria Sopra Minerva is Rome’s only Gothic church. However, little remains of the original 13th-century structure and these days the main drawcard is a minor Michelangelo sculpture and the colourful, art-rich interior.
TOP EXPERIENCE
St Peter’s Basilica
In this city of outstanding churches, none can hold a candle to St Peter’s, Italy’s largest, richest and most spectacular basilica.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
Climbing the (numerous, steep and tiring, but worth it) steps of the dome for views over Rome.
8Need to Know
Basilica di San Pietro; %06 6988 3731; www.vatican.va; St Peter’s Sq; h7am-7pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro F
5Take a Break
For a salad or tasty panino, try organic takeaway Fa-Bìo (%06 3974 6510; Via Germanico 71; meals €5-7; h10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro) 
S, or join the fashionable locals at Il Sorpasso (%06 8902 4554; www.sorpasso.info; Via Properzio 31-33; meals €20-35; h7.30am-1am Mon-Fri, 9am-1am Sat; 
W; gPiazza del Risorgimento).
oTop Tip
Strict dress codes are enforced, which means no shorts, miniskirts or bare shoulders.
The original church was commissioned by the emperor Constantine and built around 349 on the site where St Peter is said to have been buried between AD 64 and 67. But like many medieval churches, it eventually fell into disrepair. It wasn’t until the mid-15th century that efforts were made to restore it, first by Pope Nicholas V and then, rather more successfully, by Julius II.
In 1506 construction began on a design by Bramante, but ground to a halt when the architect died in 1514. In 1547 Michelangelo stepped in to take on the project. He simplified Bramante’s plans and drew up designs for what was to become his greatest architectural achievement: the dome. He didn’t live to see it built, though, and it was left to Giacomo della Porta, Domenico Fontana and Carlo Maderno to complete the basilica, which was finally consecrated in 1626.
Facade
Built between 1608 and 1612, Maderno’s immense facade is 48m high and 118.6m wide. Eight 27m-high columns support the upper attic on which 13 statues stand representing Christ the Redeemer, St John the Baptist and the 11 apostles. The central balcony, the Loggia della Benedizione, is where the pope stands to deliver his Urbi et Orbi blessing at Christmas and Easter.
Interior
At the beginning of the right aisle is Michelangelo’s hauntingly beautiful Pietà. Sculpted when the artist was 25 (in 1499), it’s the only work he ever signed; his signature is etched into the sash across the Madonna’s breast.
On a pillar just beyond the Pietà, Carlo Fontana’s gilt and bronze monument to Queen Christina of Sweden commemorates the far-from-holy Swedish monarch who converted to Catholicism in 1655.
Moving on, you’ll come to the Cappella di San Sebastiano, home of Pope John Paul II’s tomb, and the Cappella del Santissimo Sacramento, a sumptuously decorated baroque chapel.
Dominating the centre of the basilica is Bernini’s 29m-high baldachin. Supported by four spiral columns and made with bronze taken from the Pantheon, it stands over the high altar, which itself sits on the site of St Peter’s grave.
Above the baldachin, Michelangelo’s dome soars to a height of 119m. Based on Brunelleschi’s cupola in Florence, it’s supported by four massive stone piers named after the saints whose statues adorn the Bernini-designed niches – Longinus, Helena, Veronica and Andrew.
At the base of the Pier of St Longinus is Arnolfo di Cambio’s much-loved 13th-century bronze statue of St Peter, whose right foot has been worn down by centuries of caresses.
Dominating the tribune behind the altar is Bernini’s extraordinary Cattedra di San Pietro, centred on a wooden seat that was once thought to have been St Peter’s but in fact dates to the 9th century.
To the right of the throne, Bernini’s monument to Urban VIII depicts the pope flanked by the figures of Charity and Justice.
Near the head of the left aisle are the so-called Stuart monuments. On the right is the monument to Clementina Sobieska, wife of James Stuart, by Filippo Barigioni, and on the left is Canova’s vaguely erotic monument to the last three members of the Stuart clan, the pretenders to the English throne who died in exile in Rome.
Dome
From the dome (St Peter’s Sq; with/without lift €10/8; h8am-6pm Apr-Sep, to 5pm Oct-Mar; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro) entrance on the right of the basilica’s main portico, you can walk the 551 steps to the top or take a small lift halfway and then follow on foot for the last 320 steps. Either way, it’s a long, steep climb and not recommended for anyone who suffers from claustrophobia or vertigo. Make it to the top, though, and you’re rewarded with stunning views.
Museo Storico Artistico
Accessed from the left nave, the Museo Storico Artistico (Tesoro, Treasury; %06 6988 1840; St Peter’s Basilica, St Peter’s Sq; €5 incl audioguide; h9am-6.10pm Apr-Sep, to 5.10pm Oct-Mar, last entrance 30min before closing; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro) sparkles with sacred relics. Highlights include a tabernacle by Donatello and the 6th-century Crux Vaticana (Vatican Cross).
Vatican Grottoes
Extending beneath the basilica, the Vatican Grottoes (St Peter’s Basilica, St Peter’s Sq; h8am-5pm Apr-Sep, to 4pm Oct-Mar; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro) F contain the tombs and sarcophagi of numerous popes, as well as several columns from the original 4th-century basilica. The entrance is in the Pier of St Andrew.
oFree Tours
Free, two-hour English-language tours usually start at 2.15pm Monday, Wednesday and Friday, from the Ufficio Pellegrini e Turisti. No need to book, but check the website for dates.
St Peter’s Tomb
Excavations beneath the basilica have uncovered part of the original church and what archaeologists believe is the Tomb of St Peter (%06 6988 5318; www.scavi.va; St Peter’s Basilica, St Peter’s Sq; €13; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro).
The excavations can only be visited by guided tour. To book a spot (this must be done well in advance), check out the website of the Ufficio Scavi (Excavations Office; Fabbrica di San Pietro; %06 6988 5318; www.scavi.va; €13; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro).
What’s Nearby?
St Peter’s SquarePiazza
(Piazza San Pietro; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro)
Overlooked by St Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican’s central square was laid out between 1656 and 1667 to a design by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Seen from above, it resembles a giant keyhole with two semicircular colonnades, each consisting of four rows of Doric columns, encircling a giant ellipse that straightens out to funnel believers into the basilica. The effect was deliberate – Bernini described the colonnades as representing ‘the motherly arms of the church’.
Castel Sant’AngeloMuseum, Castle
(map Google map; %06 681 91 11; www.castelsantangelo.beniculturali.it; Lungotevere Castello 50; adult/reduced €14/7, free 1st Sunday of the month Oct-Mar; h9am-7.30pm, ticket office to 6.30pm; gPiazza Pia)
With its chunky round keep, this castle is an instantly recognisable landmark. Built as a mausoleum for the emperor Hadrian, it was converted into a papal fortress in the 6th century and named after an angelic vision that Pope Gregory the Great had in 590. Nowadays, it houses the Museo Nazionale di Castel Sant’Angelo and its eclectic collection of paintings, sculpture, military memorabilia and medieval firearms.
o Local Knowledge
Near the main entrance, a red floor disk marks the spot where Charlemagne and later Holy Roman Emperors were crowned by the pope.
TOP EXPERIENCE
Vatican Museums
Founded in the 16th century, the Vatican Museums boast one of the world’s greatest art collections. Highlights include spectacular classical statuary, rooms frescoed by Raphael, and the Michelangelo-decorated Sistine Chapel.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The unforgettable Sistine Chapel and the Stanze di Raffaello (Raphael Rooms).
8Need to Know
Musei Vaticani; %06 6988 4676; www.museivaticani.va; Viale Vaticano; adult/reduced €17/8; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm last Sun of month, last entry 2hr before close; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro
5Take a Break
Head to Bonci Pizzarium, one of Rome’s best pizza al taglio (sliced pizza) joints.
oTop Tip
Avoid queues by booking online: at http://biglietteriamusei.vatican.va/musei/tickets/do (€4 fee; print voucher and swap it for a ticket at the appointed time at the entrance) or Ufficio Pellegrini e Turisti.
Housing the museums are the lavishly decorated halls and galleries of the Palazzo Apostolico Vaticano. This vast 5.5-hectare complex consists of two palaces – the Vatican palace (nearer to St Peter’s) and the Belvedere Palace – joined by two long galleries. Inside are three courtyards: the Cortile della Pigna, the Cortile della Biblioteca and, to the south, the Cortile del Belvedere. You’ll never cover it all in one day, so it pays to be selective.
Pinacoteca
Often overlooked by visitors, the papal picture gallery contains Raphael’s last work, La Trasfigurazione (Transfiguration; 1517–20), and paintings by Giotto, Fra Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Perugino, Titian, Guido Reni, Guercino, Pietro da Cortona, Caravaggio and Leonardo da Vinci, whose haunting San Gerolamo (St Jerome; c 1480) was never finished.
Museo Chiaramonti & Braccio Nuovo
The Museo Chiaramonti is effectively the long corridor that runs down the eastern side of the Belvedere Palace. Its walls are lined with thousands of statues and busts representing everything from immortal gods to playful cherubs and unattractive Roman patricians. Near the end of the hall, off to the right, is the Braccio Nuovo (New Wing), which contains a famous statue of the Nile as a reclining god covered by 16 babies.
Museo Pio-Clementino
This stunning museum contains some of the Vatican Museums’ finest classical statuary, including the peerless Apollo Belvedere and the 1st-century Laocoön, both in the Cortile Ottagono (Octagonal Courtyard). Before you go into the courtyard, take a moment to admire the 1st-century Apoxyomenos, one of the earliest known sculptures to depict a figure with a raised arm.
Museo Gregoriano Egizio
Founded by Gregory XVI in 1839, this museum contains pieces taken from Egypt in Roman times. The collection is small, but there are fascinating exhibits including the Trono di Ramses II (part of a statue of the seated king), vividly painted sarcophagi dating from around 1000 BC, and some macabre mummies.
Museo Gregoriano Etrusco
At the top of the 18th-century Simonetti staircase, the Museo Gregoriano Etrusco contains artefacts unearthed in the Etruscan tombs of northern Lazio, as well as a superb collection of vases and Roman antiquities. Of particular interest is the Marte di Todi (Mars of Todi), a black bronze of a warrior dating to the late 5th century BC.
Galleria delle Carte Geografiche & Sala Sobieski
The last of three galleries – the other two are the Galleria dei Candelabri (Gallery of the Candelabra) and the Galleria degli Arazzi (Tapestry Gallery) – this 120m-long corridor is hung with 40 huge topographical maps. These were created between 1580 and 1583 for Pope Gregory XIII based on drafts by Ignazio Danti, one of the leading cartographers of his day.
Beyond the gallery, the Sala Sobieski is named after an enormous 19th-century painting depicting the victory of the Polish king John III Sobieski over the Turks in 1683.
Stanze di Raffaello
These four frescoed chambers, currently undergoing partial restoration, were part of Pope Julius II’s private apartments. Raphael himself painted the Stanza della Segnatura (1508–11) and the Stanza d’Eliodoro (1512–14), while the Stanza dell’Incendio (1514–17) and Sala di Costantino (1517–24) were decorated by students following his designs.
Sistine Chapel
The jewel in the Vatican’s crown, the Sistine Chapel (Cappella Sistina) is home to two of the world’s most famous works of art: Michelangelo’s ceiling frescoes and his Giudizio Universale (Last Judgement).
The chapel was originally built for Pope Sixtus IV, after whom it’s named, and was consecrated on 15 August 1483. However, apart from the wall frescoes and floor, little remains of the original decor, which was sacrificed to make way for Michelangelo’s two masterpieces. The first, the ceiling, was commissioned by Pope Julius II and painted between 1508 and 1512; the second, the spectacular Giudizio Universale, was painted between 1535 and 1541.
Michelangelo’s ceiling design, which is best viewed from the chapel’s main entrance in the far east wall, covers the entire 800-sq-m surface. With painted architectural features and a cast of colourful biblical characters, it’s centred on nine panels depicting scenes from the Creation, the story of Adam and Eve, the Fall, and the plight of Noah.
As you look up from the east wall, the first panel is the Drunkenness of Noah, followed by The Flood and the Sacrifice of Noah. Next, Original Sin and Banishment from the Garden of Eden famously depicts Adam and Eve being sent packing after accepting the forbidden fruit from Satan, represented by a snake with the body of a woman coiled around a tree. The Creation of Eve is then followed by the Creation of Adam. This, one of the most famous images in Western art, shows a bearded God pointing his finger at Adam, thus bringing him to life. Completing the sequence are the Separation of Land from Sea; the Creation of the Sun, Moon and Plants; and the Separation of Light from Darkness, featuring a fearsome God reaching out to touch the sun. Set around the central panels are 20 athletic male nudes, known as ignudi.
Opposite, on the west wall is Michelangelo’s mesmeric Giudizio Universale, showing Christ – in the centre near the top – passing sentence over the souls of the dead as they are torn from their graves to face him. The saved get to stay in heaven (in the upper right); the damned are sent down to face the demons in hell (in the bottom right).
The chapel’s walls also boast superb frescoes. Painted between 1481 and 1482 by a crack team of Renaissance artists, including Botticelli, Ghirlandaio, Pinturicchio, Perugino and Luca Signorelli, they represent events in the lives of Moses (to the left looking at the Giudizio Universale) and Christ (to the right). Highlights include Botticelli’s Temptations of Christ and Perugino’s Handing over of the Keys.
As well as providing a showcase for priceless art, the Sistine Chapel serves an important religious function as the place where the conclave meets to elect a new pope.
oLocal Knowledge
Tuesdays and Thursdays are the quietest days to visit, Wednesday mornings are also good, and afternoons are better than mornings. Avoid Mondays, when many other museums are shut.
oTop Tip
Exhibits are simply labelled – consider an audioguide (€8) or Guide to the Vatican Museums and City (€13).
TOP EXPERIENCE
Roman Forum
The Roman Forum was ancient Rome’s showpiece centre, a grandiose district of temples, basilicas and vibrant public spaces. Nowadays, it’s a collection of impressive, if badly labelled, ruins that can leave you drained and confused. But if you can get your imagination going, there’s something wonderfully compelling about walking in the footsteps of Julius Caesar and other legendary figures of Roman history.
Great For…
yDon’t Miss
The Basilica di Massenzio, to get some idea of the scale of ancient Rome’s mammoth buildings.
8Need to Know
Foro Romano; map Google map; %06 3996 7700; www.parcocolosseo.it; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Piazza di Santa Maria Nova; adult/reduced incl Colosseum & Palatino €12/7.50, SUPER ticket €18/13.50; h8.30am-1hr before sunset; SUPER ticket sites Tue, Thu, Sat & afternoon Sun only; gVia dei Fori Imperiali
5Take a Break
For a restorative coffee break, head up to the Campidoglio and the Terrazza Caffarelli (Caffetteria dei Musei Capitolini; map Google map; %06 6919 0564; Piazzale Caffarelli 4; h9.30am-7pm; gPiazza Venezia), the Capitoline Museums’ panoramic rooftop cafe.
oTop Tip
Get grandstand views of the Roman Forum from the Palatino and Campidoglio.
Originally an Etruscan burial ground, the Forum was first developed in the 7th century BC, growing over time to become the social, political and commercial hub of the Roman Empire. In the Middle Ages it was reduced to pasture land and extensively plundered for its marble. The area was systematically excavated in the 18th and 19th centuries and work continues to this day.
Via Sacra Towards Campidoglio
Entering the Forum from Largo della Salara Vecchia, you’ll see the Tempio di Antonino e Faustina (map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali) ahead to your left. Erected in AD 141, this was transformed into a church in the 8th century, the Chiesa di San Lorenzo in Miranda (map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali). To your right is the 179 BC Basilica Fulvia Aemilia (map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali).
At the end of the path, you’ll come to Via Sacra (map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali), the Forum’s main thoroughfare, and the Tempio di Giulio Cesare, which stands on the spot where Julius Caesar was cremated.
Heading right brings you to the Curia (map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali), the original seat of the Roman Senate, though what you see today is a reconstruction of how it looked in the reign of Diocletian (r 284–305).
At the end of Via Sacra, the Arco di Settimio Severo (Arch of Septimius Severus; map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali) is dedicated to the eponymous emperor and his sons, Caracalla and Geta. Close by the Colonna di Foca (Column of Phocus; map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali) rises above what was once the Forum’s main square, Piazza del Foro.
The eight granite columns that rise behind the Colonna are all that survive of the Tempio di Saturno (Temple of Saturn; map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali), an important temple that doubled as the state treasury.
Tempio di Castore e Polluce & Casa delle Vestali
From the path that runs parallel to Via Sacra, you’ll pass the stubby ruins of the Basilica Giulia (map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali), which was begun by Caesar and finished by Augustus. At the end of the basilica, three columns remain from the 5th-century-BC Tempio di Castore e Polluce (Temple of Castor and Pollux; map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali) . Nearby, the 6th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua (map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; SUPER ticket adult/reduced €18/13.50; h9am-6.30pm Tue, Thu & Sat, from 2pm Sun summer, 9am-3.30pm Tue, Thu & Sat, from 2pm Sun winter; gVia dei Fori Imperiali) is the oldest Christian church in the Forum.
Back towards Via Sacra is the Casa delle Vestali (House of the Vestal Virgins; map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali), currently off limits, home of the virgins who tended the flame in the adjoining Tempio di Vesta (map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali).
Via Sacra Towards the Colosseum
Heading up Via Sacra past the Tempio di Romolo (Temple of Romulus; map Google map; Largo della Salara Vecchia, Roman Forum; SUPER ticket adult/reduced €18/13.50; h9am-6.30pm Tue, Thu & Sat, from 2pm Sun summer, 9am-3.30pm Tue, Thu & Sat, from 2pm Sun winter; gVia dei Fori Imperiali), you’ll come to the Basilica di Massenzio (Basilica di Costantino; map Google map; Piazza di Santa Maria Nova, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali), the largest building on the forum.
Beyond the basilica, the Arco di Tito (Arch of Titus; map Google map; Piazza di Santa Maria Nova, Roman Forum; gVia dei Fori Imperiali) was built in AD 81 to celebrate Vespasian and Titus’ victories against rebels in Jerusalem.
1Sights
1Ancient Rome
PalatinoArchaeological Site
(Palatine Hill; map Google map; %06 3996 7700; www.parcocolosseo.it; Via di San Gregorio 30, Piazza di Santa Maria Nova; adult/reduced incl Colosseum & Roman Forum €12/7.50, SUPER ticket €18/13.50; h8.30am-1hr before sunset; some SUPER ticket sites Mon, Wed, Fri & morning Sun only; mColosseo)
Sandwiched between the Roman Forum and the Circo Massimo, the Palatino (Palatine Hill) is one of Rome’s most spectacular sights, a beautiful, atmospheric area of towering pine trees, majestic ruins and unforgettable views. This is where Romulus supposedly founded the city in 753 BC and Rome’s emperors lived in palatial luxury. Look out for the stadio (stadium; map Google map; Via di San Gregorio 30, Palatino; mColosseo), the ruins of the Domus Flavia (imperial palace; map Google map; Via di San Gregorio 30, Palatino; mColosseo), and grandstand views over the Roman Forum from the Orti Farnesiani (map Google map; Via di San Gregorio 30, Palatino; mColosseo).
Capitoline MuseumsMuseum
(Musei Capitolini; map Google map; %06 06 08; www.museicapitolini.org; Piazza del Campidoglio 1; adult/reduced €11.50/9.50; h9.30am-7.30pm, last admission 6.30pm; gPiazza Venezia)
Dating from 1471, the Capitoline Museums are the world’s oldest public museums. Their collection of classical sculpture is one of Italy’s finest, boasting works such as the iconic Lupa Capitolina (Capitoline Wolf), a life-size bronze of a she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus, and the Galata morente (Dying Gaul), a moving depiction of a dying warrior. There’s also a formidable gallery with masterpieces by the likes of Titian, Tintoretto, Rubens and Caravaggio.
Ticket prices increase when there’s a temporary exhibition on.
VittorianoMonument
(Victor Emanuel Monument; map Google map; Piazza Venezia; h9.30am-5.30pm summer, to 4.30pm winter; gPiazza Venezia) F
Love it or loathe it, as many Romans do, you can’t ignore the Vittoriano (aka the Altare della Patria, Altar of the Fatherland), the colossal mountain of white marble that towers over Piazza Venezia. Built at the turn of the 20th century to honour Italy’s first king, Vittorio Emanuele II – who’s immortalised in its vast equestrian statue – it provides the dramatic setting for the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and, inside, the small Museo Centrale del Risorgimento (map Google map; %06 679 35 98; www.risorgimento.it; Vittoriano, Piazza Venezia; adult/reduced €5/2.50; h9.30am-6.30pm; gPiazza Venezia), documenting Italian unification.
Also inside is the Complesso del Vittoriano (map Google map; %06 871 51 11; www.ilvittoriano.com; Via di San Pietro in Carcere; admission variable; h9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 8.30pm Sun; gVia dei Fori Imperiali), a gallery that regularly hosts major art exhibitions. But as impressive as any of the art on show are the glorious 360-degree views from the top of the monument. See for yourself by taking the panoramic Roma dal Cielo (map Google map; Vittoriano, Piazza Venezia; adult/reduced €10/5; h9.30am-7.30pm, last admission 6.45pm; gPiazza Venezia) lift up to the Terrazza delle Quadrighe.
Bocca della VeritàMonument
(Mouth of Truth; map Google map; Piazza Bocca della Verità 18; voluntary donation; h9.30am-5.50pm summer, to 4.50pm winter; gPiazza Bocca della Verità)
A bearded face carved into a giant marble disc, the Bocca della Verità is one of Rome’s most popular curiosities. Legend has it that if you put your hand in the mouth and tell a lie, the Bocca will slam shut and bite it off.
The mouth, which was originally part of a fountain, or possibly an ancient manhole cover, now lives in the portico of the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin, a handsome medieval church.
1Centro Storico
Piazza NavonaPiazza
(map Google map; gCorso del Rinascimento)
With its showy fountains, baroque palazzi and colourful cast of street artists, hawkers and tourists, Piazza Navona is central Rome’s elegant showcase square. Built over the 1st-century Stadio di Domiziano (Domitian’s Stadium; map Google map; %06 6880 5311; www.stadiodomiziano.com; Via di Tor Sanguigna 3; adult/reduced €8/6; h10am-6.30pm Sun-Fri, to 7.30pm Sat), it was paved over in the 15th century and for almost 300 years hosted the city’s main market. Its grand centrepiece is Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers; map Google map), a flamboyant fountain featuring an Egyptian obelisk and muscular personifications of the rivers Nile, Ganges, Danube and Plate.
Galleria Doria PamphiljGallery
(map Google map; %06 679 73 23; www.doriapamphilj.it; Via del Corso 305; adult/reduced €12/8; h9am-7pm, last entry 6pm; gVia del Corso)
Hidden behind the grimy grey exterior of Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, this wonderful gallery boasts one of Rome’s richest private art collections, with works by Raphael, Tintoretto, Titian, Caravaggio, Bernini and Velázquez, as well as several Flemish masters. Masterpieces abound, but the undisputed star is Velázquez’ portrait of an implacable Pope Innocent X, who grumbled that the depiction was ‘too real’. For a comparison, check out Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s sculptural interpretation of the same subject.
Chiesa del GesùChurch
(map Google map; %06 69 70 01; www.chiesadelgesu.org; Piazza del Gesù; h6.45am-12.45pm & 4-7.30pm, St Ignatius rooms 4-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-noon Sun; gLargo di Torre Argentina)
An imposing example of Counter-Reformation architecture, Rome’s most important Jesuit church is a fabulous treasure trove of baroque art. Headline works include a swirling vault fresco by Giovanni Battista Gaulli (aka Il Baciccia) and Andrea del Pozzo’s opulent tomb for Ignatius Loyola, the Spanish soldier and saint who founded the Jesuits in 1540. St Ignatius lived in the church from 1544 until his death in 1556 and you can visit his private rooms to the right of the main church.
Palazzo FarneseHistoric Building
(map Google map; www.inventerrome.com; Piazza Farnese; tours €9; hguided tours 3pm, 4pm & 5pm Mon, Wed & Fri; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II)
Home to the French embassy, this towering Renaissance palazzo, one of Rome’s finest, was started in 1514 by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, continued by Michelangelo and finished by Giacomo della Porta. Inside, it boasts frescoes by Annibale and Agostino Carracci that are said by some to rival Michelangelo’s in the Sistine Chapel. The highlight, painted between 1597 and 1608, is the monumental ceiling fresco Amori degli Dei (The Loves of the Gods) in the Galleria dei Carracci.
Campo de’ FioriPiazza
(map Google map; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II)
Colourful and always busy, Il Campo is a major focus of Roman life: by day it hosts one of the city’s best-known markets; by night it heaves with tourists and young drinkers who spill out of its many bars and restaurants. For centuries the square was the site of public executions. It was here that philosopher Giordano Bruno was burned for heresy in 1600, now marked by a sinister statue of the hooded monk, created by Ettore Ferrari in 1889.
Rome for Free
Some of Rome’s most famous sights are free, including all state museums and monuments on the first Sunday of the month, and all of Rome’s churches.
Vatican Museums are free on the last Sunday of the month.
Trevi Fountain (pictured)
1Monti & Esquilino
Museo Nazionale Romano: Palazzo Massimo alle TermeMuseum
(map Google map; %06 3996 7700; www.coopculture.it; Largo di Villa Peretti 1; adult/reduced €10/5; h9am-7.45pm Tue-Sun; mTermini)
One of Rome’s preeminent museums, this treasure trove of classical art is a must-see when you’re in the city. The ground and 1st floors are devoted to sculpture, with some breathtaking pieces – don’t miss The Boxer, a 2nd-century-BC Greek bronze excavated on the Quirinale Hill in 1885, and the Dying Niobid, a 4th-century-BC Greek marble statue. But it’s the magnificent and vibrantly coloured Villa Livia and Villa Farnesia frescoes on the 2nd floor that are the undisputed highlight.
Basilica di Santa Maria MaggioreBasilica
(map Google map; %06 6988 6800; Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore; basilica free, adult/reduced museum €3/2, loggia €5; h7am-6.45pm, loggia guided tours 9.30am-5.45pm; mTermini or Cavour)
One of Rome’s four patriarchal basilicas, this 5th-century church stands on Esquiline Hill’s summit, on the spot where snow is said to have miraculously fallen in the summer of AD 358. Every year on 5 August the event is recreated during a light show in Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore. Much altered over the centuries, the basilica is an architectural hybrid with 14th-century Romanesque campanile, Renaissance coffered ceiling, 18th-century baroque facade, largely baroque interior and a series of glorious 5th-century mosaics.
1Tridente & Trevi
Trevi FountainFountain
(Fontana di Trevi; map Google map; Piazza di Trevi; mBarberini)
The Fontana di Trevi, scene of movie star Anita Ekberg’s late-night dip in La Dolce Vita, is a flamboyant baroque ensemble of mythical figures and wild horses taking up the entire side of the 17th-century Palazzo Poli. After a Fendi-sponsored restoration finished in 2015, the fountain gleams brighter than it has for years. The tradition is to toss a coin into the water, thus ensuring that you’ll return to Rome – on average about €3000 is thrown in every day.
Gallerie Nazionali: Palazzo BarberiniGallery
(Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica; map Google map; %06 481 45 91; www.barberinicorsini.org; Via delle Quattro Fontane 13; adult/reduced €12/6; h8.30am-6pm Tue-Sun; mBarberini)
Commissioned to celebrate the Barberini family’s rise to papal power, this sumptuous baroque palace impresses even before you view its breathtaking art collection. Many high-profile architects worked on it, including rivals Bernini and Borromini; the former contributed a square staircase, the latter a helicoidal one. Amid the masterpieces on display, don’t miss Filippo Lippi’s Annunciazione (Annunciation; 1440–45) and Pietro da Cortona’s ceiling fresco Il Trionfo della Divina Provvidenza (The Triumph of Divine Providence; 1632–39).
Piazza di Spagna & the Spanish StepsPiazza
(map Google map; mSpagna)
A magnet for visitors since the 18th century, the Spanish Steps (Scalinata della Trinità dei Monti) provide a perfect people-watching perch. The 135 gleaming steps rise from Piazza di Spagna to the landmark Chiesa della Trinità dei Monti (map Google map; %06 679 41 79; http://trinitadeimonti.net/it/chiesa/; Piazza Trinità dei Monti 3; h10.15am-8pm Tue-Thu, noon-9pm Fri, 9.15am-8pm Sat, 9am-8pm Sun).
Piazza di Spagna was named after the Spanish Embassy to the Holy See, although the staircase, designed by the Italian Francesco de Sanctis, was built in 1725 with money bequeathed by a French diplomat.
Villa MediciPalace
(%06 676 13 11; www.villamedici.it; Viale Trinità dei Monti 1; guided tour adult/reduced €12/6; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun; mSpagna)
Built for Cardinal Ricci da Montepulciano in 1540, this sumptuous Renaissance palace was purchased by Ferdinando de’ Medici in 1576 and remained in Medici hands until 1801, when Napoleon acquired it for the French Academy. Guided tours (1½ hours) in multiple languages take in the sculpture-filled gardens and orchard, a garden studio exquisitely frescoed by Jacopo Zucchi in 1577 and the cardinal’s private apartments. Note the pieces of ancient Roman sculpture from the Ara Pacis embedded in the villa’s walls.
1Trastevere
Trastevere is one of central Rome’s most vivacious neighbourhoods, a tightly packed warren of ochre palazzi, ivy-clad facades and photogenic lanes. Originally working class, it’s now a trendy hang-out full of bars and restaurants.
Basilica di Santa Maria in TrastevereBasilica
(map Google map; %06 581 48 02; Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere; h7.30am-9pm Sep-Jul, 8am-noon & 4-9pm Aug; gViale di Trastevere, 
jBelli)
Nestled in a quiet corner of Trastevere’s focal square, this is said to be the oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary in Rome. In its original form, it dates to the early 3rd century, but a major 12th-century makeover saw the addition of a Romanesque bell tower and a glittering facade. The portico came later, added by Carlo Fontana in 1702. Inside, the 12th-century mosaics are the headline feature.
1San Giovanni & Testaccio
Basilica di San Giovanni in LateranoBasilica
(%06 6988 6493; Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano 4; basilica free, cloister €5 incl Museo del Tesoro; h7am-6.30pm, cloister 9am-6pm; mSan Giovanni)
For a thousand years this monumental cathedral was the most important church in Christendom. Commissioned by the emperor Constantine and consecrated in AD 324, it was the first Christian basilica built in Rome and, until the late 14th century, was the pope’s main place of worship. It’s still Rome’s official cathedral and the seat of the pope as the bishop of Rome.
Basilica di San ClementeBasilica
(%06 774 00 21; www.basilicasanclemente.com; Piazza di San Clemente; basilica free, excavations adult/reduced €10/5; h9am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 12.15-6pm Sun; gVia Labicana)
Nowhere better illustrates the various stages of Rome’s turbulent past than this fascinating multilayered church. The ground-level 12th-century basilica sits atop a 4th-century church, which, in turn, stands over a 2nd-century pagan temple and a 1st-century Roman house. Beneath everything are foundations dating from the Roman Republic.
1Villa Borghese
Accessible from Piazzale Flaminio, Pincio Hill and the top of Via Vittorio Veneto, Villa Borghese (entrances at Piazzale San Paolo del Brasile, Piazzale Flaminio, Via Pinciana, Via Raimondo, Largo Pablo Picasso; hsunrise-sunset; gVia Pinciana) is Rome’s best-known park.
Museo e Galleria BorgheseMuseum
(%06 3 28 10; http://galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it; Piazzale del Museo Borghese 5; adult/child €15/8.50; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun; gVia Pinciana)
If you only have time for one art gallery in Rome, make it this one. Housing what’s often referred to as the ‘queen of all private art collections’, it boasts paintings by Caravaggio, Raphael and Titian, plus sensational sculptures by Bernini. Highlights abound, but look for Bernini’s Ratto di Proserpina (Rape of Proserpina) and Canova’s Venere vincitrice (Venus Victrix).
To limit numbers, visitors are admitted at two-hourly intervals – you’ll need to book tickets well in advance and get an entry time.
Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa GiuliaMuseum
(%06 322 65 71; www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it; Piazzale di Villa Giulia; adult/reduced €8/4; h9am-8pm Tue-Sun; jVia delle Belle Arti)
Pope Julius III’s 16th-century villa provides the often-overlooked but charming setting for Italy’s finest collection of Etruscan and pre-Roman treasures. Exhibits, many of which came from tombs in the surrounding Lazio region, range from bronze figurines and black bucchero tableware to temple decorations, terracotta vases and a dazzling display of sophisticated jewellery.
Must-sees include a polychrome terracotta statue of Apollo from a temple in Veio, and the 6th-century-BC Sarcofago degli Sposi (Sarcophagus of the Betrothed), found in 1881 in Cerveteri.
7Shopping
What makes shopping in Rome fun is its legion of small, independent shops: family-run delis, small-label fashion boutiques, artisans’ studios and neighbourhood markets.
Confetteria Moriondo & GariglioChocolate
(map Google map; %06 699 08 56; Via del Piè di Marmo 21-22; h9am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; gVia del Corso)
Roman poet Trilussa was so smitten with this chocolate shop – established by the Torinese confectioners to the royal house of Savoy – that he was moved to mention it in verse. And we agree: it’s a gem. Decorated like an elegant tearoom, it specialises in handmade chocolates and confections such as marrons glacés, many prepared according to original 19th-century recipes.
Antica Caciara TrasteverinaFood & Drinks
(%06 581 28 15; www.facebook.com/anticacaciaratrasteverina; Via di San Francesco a Ripa 140; h7.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; gViale di Trastevere, jTrastevere/Mastai)
The fresh ricotta is a prized possession at this century-old deli, and it’s usually gone by lunchtime. If you’re too late, take solace in the luscious ricotta infornata (oven-baked ricotta), wheels of famous, black-waxed pecorino romano, and garlands of guanciale (pig’s jowl) ready for the perfect carbonara. The lovely, caring staff answer questions and plastic-wrap cheese and hams for transport home.
Salumeria RoscioliFood & Drinks
(map Google map; %06 687 52 87; www.salumeriaroscioli.com; Via dei Giubbonari 21; h8.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat; jVia Arenula)
Rome’s most celebrated deli showcases a spectacular smorgasbord of prize products ranging from cured hams and cheeses to conserves, dried pastas, olive oils, aged balsamic vinegars and wines. Alongside celebrated Italian fare you’ll also find top international foodstuffs such as French cheese, Iberian ham and Scottish salmon.
As well as buying, you can also dine here at the deli’s excellent restaurant.
Ibiz – Artigianato in CuoioFashion & Accessories
(map Google map; %06 6830 7297; www.ibizroma.it; Via dei Chiavari 39; h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; gCorso Vittorio Emanuele II)
In her diminutive family workshop, Elisa Nepi and her team craft beautiful butter-soft leather wallets, bags, belts, keyrings and sandals, in elegant designs and myriad colours. You can pick up a belt for about €35, while for a shoulder bag you should bank on around €145.
Mercado de Porta PorteseMarket
(Piazza Porta Portese; h6am-2pm Sun; gViale di Trastevere, jTrastevere/Min P Istruzione)
Head to this mammoth flea market to see Rome bargain-hunting. Thousands of stalls sell everything from rare books and fell-off-a-lorry bikes to Peruvian shawls and off-brand phones. It’s crazily busy and a lot of fun. Keep your valuables safe and wear your haggling hat for the inevitable discovery of a treasure amid the dreck.
5Eating
The most atmospheric neighbourhoods to dine in are the centro storico and Trastevere. There are also excellent choices in Monti and Testaccio. Watch out for overpriced tourist traps around Termini and the Vatican.
5Centro Storico
Forno RoscioliBakery€
(map Google map; %06 686 40 45; www.anticofornoroscioli.it; Via dei Chiavari 34; pizza slices from €2, snacks €2.50; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-7pm Sun; jVia Arenula)
This is one of Rome’s top bakeries, much loved by lunching locals who crowd here for luscious sliced pizza, prize pastries and hunger-sating supplì (risotto balls). The pizza margherita is superb, if messy to eat, and there’s also a counter serving hot pastas and vegetable side dishes.
La CiambellaItalian€€
(map Google map; %06 683 29 30; www.la-ciambella.it; Via dell’Arco della Ciambella 20; meals €35-45; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sun; gLargo di Torre Argentina)
Near the Pantheon but as yet largely undiscovered by the tourist hordes, this friendly restaurant beats much of the neighbourhood competition. Its handsome, light-filled interior is set over the ruins of the Terme di Agrippa, visible through transparent floor panels, setting an attractive stage for interesting, imaginative food.
PianostradaRistorante€€
(map Google map; %06 8957 2296; www.facebook.com/pianostrada; Via delle Zoccolette 22; meals €40-45; h1-4pm & 7pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun; jVia Arenula)
This uberhip bistro-restaurant, in a white space with vintage furnishings and a glorious summer courtyard, is a must. Reserve ahead, or settle for a stool at the bar and enjoy views of the kitchen at work. The cuisine is creative, seasonal and veg-packed, including gourmet open sandwiches and sensational focaccia, as well as full-blown mains.
Salumeria RoscioliRistorante€€€
(map Google map; %06 687 52 87; www.salumeriaroscioli.com; Via dei Giubbonari 21; meals €55; h12.30-4pm & 7pm-midnight Mon-Sat; jVia Arenula)
The name Roscioli has long been a byword for foodie excellence in Rome, and this deli-restaurant is the place to experience it. Tables are set alongside the counter, laden with mouth-watering Italian and foreign delicacies, and in a small bottle-lined space behind. The food, including traditional Roman pastas, is top notch and there are some truly outstanding wines. Reservations essential.
5Vatican City, Borgo & Prati
Bonci PizzariumPizza€
(%06 3974 5416; www.bonci.it; Via della Meloria 43; pizza slices €5; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun; mCipro)
Pizzarium, the takeaway of Gabriele Bonci, Rome’s acclaimed pizza emperor, serves Rome’s best sliced pizza, bar none. Scissor-cut squares of soft, springy base are topped with original combinations of seasonal ingredients and served for immediate consumption. Often jammed, there are only a couple of benches and stools for the tourist hordes; head across to the plaza at the metro station for a seat.
5Monti & Esquilino
La BarriqueItalian€€
(map Google map; %06 4782 5953; www.facebook.com/la.barrique.94/; Via del Boschetto 41b; meals €40; h1-2.30pm & 7.30-11pm Mon-Fri, 7.30-11.30pm Sat; mCavour)
This traditional enoteca is a classy yet casual place to linger over a meal. There’s a large wine list, mostly sourced from small producers, with lots of natural wines to choose from. A small menu of creative pastas and mains provide a great accompaniment – this is one of the best places to eat in Monti. Bookings recommended.
5Trastevere
Trattoria Da TeoTrattoria€€
(map Google map; %06 581 83 55; www.facebook.com/Trattoria.da.teo; Piazza dei Ponziani 7; meals €35-45; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat; gViale di Trastevere, jBelli)
One of Rome’s classic trattorias, Da Teo buzzes with locals digging into steaming platefuls of Roman standards, such as carbonara, pasta cacio e pepe (cheese-and-black-pepper pasta) and the most fabulous seasonal artichokes – both Jewish (deep-fried) and Roman-style (stuffed with parsley and garlic, and boiled). In keeping with hard-core trattoria tradition, Teo’s homemade gnocchi is only served on Thursday. Reservations essential.
Da EnzoTrattoria€€
(map Google map; %06 581 22 60; www.daenzoal29.com; Via dei Vascellari 29; meals €30-35; h12.30-3pm & 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat; gLungotevere Ripa, jBelli)
Vintage ochre walls, yellow-checked tablecloths and a traditional menu featuring all the Roman classics: what makes this tiny and staunchly traditional trattoria exceptional is its careful sourcing of local, quality products, many from nearby farms in Lazio. The seasonal, deep-fried Jewish artichokes and the pasta cacio e pepe (cheese-and-black-pepper pasta) are among the best in Rome.
5San Giovanni & Testaccio
Flavio al VelavevodettoRoman€€
(%06 574 41 94; www.ristorantevelavevodetto.it; Via di Monte Testaccio 97-99; meals €30-35; h12.30-3pm & 7.45-11pm; gVia Galvani)
The pick of Testaccio’s trattorias, this casual spot is celebrated locally for its earthy, no-nonsense cucina romana (Roman cuisine). For a taste, start with carciofo alla giudia (deep-fried artichoke) before moving onto rigatoni alla carbonara (pasta tubes wrapped in a silky egg sauce spiked with morsels of cured pig’s cheek) and finishing up with tiramisu.
Rome’s Best Gelato
Fior di Luna (map Google map; %06 6456 1314; http://fiordiluna.com; Via della Lungaretta 96; gelato from €2.50; h1-8pm Sun & Mon, 1-11pm Tue-Sat; gBelli, jViale di Trastevere) Produced in small batches using natural, seasonal ingredients.
Gelateria dei Gracchi (%06 321 66 68; www.gelateriadeigracchi.it; Via dei Gracchi 272; gelato from €2.50; hnoon-12.30am; gPiazza Cola Di Rienzo) The flavours vary by day and season, but you’re always assured of a top treat.
Neve di Latte (%06 320 84 85; www.facebook.com/NevedilatteRomaFlaminio; Via Poletti 6; gelato €2.50-5; hnoon-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat summer, noon-10pm winter; jViale Tiziano) The classics, all prepared with high-quality seasonal ingredients.
Giolitti (map Google map; %06 699 12 43; www.giolitti.it; Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40; gelato €2.80-5; h7am-1am; gVia del Corso) Rome’s most famous gelateria.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Much of the drinking action is in the centro storico: Campo de’ Fiori’s scene is young and lively, while the area around Piazza Navona hosts a more upmarket scene. Over the river, Trastevere is another favoured spot with dozens of bars and pubs.
Rome’s clubbing scene is centred on Testaccio and the Ostiense area.
Caffè Sant’EustachioCoffee
(map Google map; %06 6880 2048; www.santeustachioilcaffe.it; Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82; h7.30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 1.30am Fri, to 2am Sat; gCorso del Rinascimento)
Always busy, this workaday cafe near the Pantheon is reckoned by many to serve the best coffee in town. To make it, the bartenders sneakily beat the first drops of an espresso with several teaspoons of sugar to create a frothy paste to which they add the rest of the coffee. The result is superbly smooth.
Rimessa RoscioliWine Bar
(map Google map; %06 6880 3914; www.winetastingrome.com; Via del Conservatorio 58; h6.30-11.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-3pm & 6.30-11.30pm Sat & Sun; W; gLungotevere dei Tebaldi)
An offshoot of the popular Roscioli empire, Rimessa is for wine lovers: labels from all over Italy and further afield crowd the shelves, while exquisite wine-tasting dinners (€33 to €65) unfold in both English and Italian. Also available is a Tasting Bar option, where a sommelier crafts a tasting tailored to your budget and preferences.
Open BaladinCraft Beer
(map Google map; %06 683 89 89; www.openbaladinroma.it; Via degli Specchi 6; hnoon-2am; W; jVia Arenula)
This modern pub near Campo de’ Fiori has long been a leading light in Rome’s craft-beer scene, and with more than 40 beers on tap and up to 100 bottled brews (many from Italian artisanal microbreweries) it’s a top place for a pint. As well as great beer, expect a laid-back vibe and a young, international crowd.
There’s also a decent food menu with panini, burgers and daily specials.
Terra SatisCafe, Wine Bar
(map Google map; %06 9893 6909; Piazza dei Ponziani 1a; h7am-1am Mon-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; W; gViale di Trastevere, jBelli)
This hip neighbourhood cafe and wine bar in Trastevere has it all: newspapers, great coffee and charming bar staff, not to mention vintage furniture, comfy banquette seating and really good snacks. On warm days the laid-back action spills out onto its bijou, vine-covered terrace on cobbled Piazza di Ponziani. Good wine and beer selection.
Bar San CalistoCafe
(map Google map; Piazza San Calisto 3-5; h6am-2am Mon-Sat; gViale di Trastevere, jViale di Trastevere)
Head to ‘Sanca’ for its basic, stuck-in-time atmosphere, cheap prices and large terrace. It attracts everyone from intellectuals to people-watching idlers and foreign students. It’s famous for its chocolate – come for hot chocolate with cream in winter and chocolate gelato in summer. Try the sambuca con la mosca (‘with flies’ – raw coffee beans). Expect occasional late-night jam sessions.
Pimm’s GoodBar
(map Google map; %06 9727 7979; www.pimmsgood.it; Via di Santa Dorotea 8; h10am-2am; W; gPiazza Trilussa)
‘Anyone for Pimm’s?’ is the catchphrase of both the namesake fruity English liqueur and this eternally popular bar. It has a part-red-brick ceiling and does indeed serve Pimm’s – the classic way or in a variety of cocktails. The lively bartenders are serious mixologists and well-crafted cocktails are their thing. Look for the buzzing street-corner pavement terrace.
3Entertainment
Rome has a thriving cultural scene. Check what’s on at www.060608.it, www.romeing.it and www.inromenow.com.
Auditorium Parco della MusicaConcert Venue
(%06 8024 1281; www.auditorium.com; Viale Pietro de Coubertin; jViale Tiziano)
The hub of Rome’s thriving cultural scene, the Auditorium is the capital’s premier concert venue. Its three concert halls offer superb acoustics and, together with a 3000-seat open-air arena, stage everything from classical music concerts to jazz gigs, public lectures and film screenings.
The Auditorium is also home to Rome’s world-class Orchestra dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia (www.santacecilia.it).
Teatro dell’Opera di RomaOpera
(map Google map; %06 48 16 01; www.operaroma.it; Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1; hbox office 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun; mRepubblica)
Rome’s premier opera house boasts a dramatic red-and-gold interior, a Fascist 1920s exterior and an impressive history: it premiered both Puccini’s Tosca and Mascagni’s Cavalleria rusticana. Opera and ballet performances are staged between November and June.
8INFORMATION
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Rome is not a dangerous city, but petty theft can be a problem. Watch out for pickpockets around the big tourist sites, at Stazione Termini and on crowded public transport – the 64 Vatican bus is notorious.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Policlinico Umberto I (%06 4 99 71; www.policlinicoumberto1.it; Viale del Policlinico 155; mPoliclinico, Castro Pretorio) Rome’s largest hospital is located near Stazione Termini.
TOURIST INFORMATION
There are tourist information points at Fiumicino (Fiumicino Airport; International Arrivals, Terminal 3; h8am-8.45pm) and Ciampino (Arrivals Hall; h8.30am-6pm) airports, as well as locations across the city. Each can provide city maps and sell the Roma Pass.
Information points:
Pazza delle Cinque Lune (map; Piazza delle Cinque Lune; h9.30am-7pm; gCorso del Rinascimento) Near Piazza Navona.
Stazione Termini (%06 06 08; www.turismoroma.it; Via Giovanni Giolitti 34; h8am-6.45pm; mTermini) In the hall adjacent to platform 24.
Imperial Forums (map; Via dei Fori Imperiali; h9.30am-7pm, to 8pm Jul & Aug; gVia dei Fori Imperiali)
Via Marco Minghetti (map; %06 06 08; www.turismoroma.it; Via Marco Minghetti; h9.30am-7pm; gVia del Corso) Between Via del Corso and the Trevi Fountain.
Castel Sant’Angelo (map; www.turismoroma.it; Piazza Pia; h9.30am-7pm summer, 8.30am-6pm winter; gPiazza Pia)
Trastevere (map; www.turismoroma.it; Piazza Sonnino; h10.30am-8pm; gViale di Trastevere, jBelli)
For information about the Vatican, contact the Ufficio Pellegrini e Turisti (%06 6988 1662; www.vatican.va; St Peter’s Sq; h8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; gPiazza del Risorgimento, mOttaviano-San Pietro).
Rome’s official tourist website, Turismo Roma (www.turismoroma.it), has comprehensive information about sights, accommodation and city transport, as well as itineraries and up-to-date listings.
The Comune di Roma (%06 06 08; www.060608.it; h9am-7pm) runs a free multilingual tourist information phone line providing info on culture, shows, hotels, transport etc. Its website is also an excellent resource.
Sightseeing with Roma Pass
A cumulative sightseeing and transport card, available online or from tourist information points and participating museums, the Roma Pass (www.romapass.it) comes in two forms:
72 hours (€38.50) Provides free admission to two museums or sites, as well as reduced entry to extra sites, unlimited city transport, and discounted entry to other exhibitions and events.
48 hours (€28) Gives free admission to one museum or site, and then as per the 72-hour pass.
8GETTING THERE & AWAY
AIR
Rome’s main international airport, Leonardo da Vinci (Leonardo da Vinci International Airport; %06 6 59 51; www.adr.it/fiumicino), aka Fiumicino, is 30km west of the city.
The much smaller Ciampino Airport (%06 6 59 51; www.adr.it/ciampino), 15km southeast of the city centre, is the hub for European low-cost carrier Ryanair.
BOAT
The nearest port to Rome is at Civitavecchia, about 80km north of town. Ferries sail here from Barcelona and Tunis, as well as Sicily and Sardinia. Check www.traghettiweb.it for route details, prices and bookings.
Half-hourly trains connect Civitavecchia and Termini (€5 to €16, 45 minutes to 1½ hours).
BUS
Long-distance national and international buses use Autostazione Tibus (Autostazione Tiburtina; %06 44 25 95; www.tibusroma.it; Largo Guido Mazzoni; mTiburtina). Get tickets at the bus station or at travel agencies.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Rome is circled by the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA), to which all autostrade (motorways) connect, including the main A1 north–south artery, and the A12, which runs to Civitavecchia and Fiumicino airport.
Car hire is available at the airport and Stazione Termini.
TRAIN
Rome’s main station and principal transport hub is Stazione Termini (www.romatermini.com; Piazza dei Cinquecento; mTermini). It has regular connections to other European countries, all major Italian cities and many smaller towns. Left Luggage (Stazione Termini; 1st 5hr €6, 6-12hr per hour €1, 13hr & over per hour €0.50; h6am-11pm; mTermini) is available by platform 24 on the Via Giolitti side of the station.
8GETTING AROUND
TO/FROM THE AIRPORTS
FIUMICINO
Leonardo Express trains to Stazione Termini 6.08am to 11.23pm, €14; slower FL1 trains to Trastevere, Ostiense and Tiburtina stations 5.57am to 10.42pm, €8; buses to Stazione Termini 6.05am to 12.40am, €6-6.90; airport-to-hotel shuttles from €22 per person; taxis €48 (fixed fare to within the Aurelian walls).
CIAMPINO
Buses to Stazione Termini 4am to 12.15am, €6; airport-to-hotel shuttles €25 per person; taxis €30 (fixed fare to within the Aurelian walls).
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Rome’s public transport system includes buses, trams, a metro and a suburban train network.
Tickets are valid on all forms of public transport, except for routes to Fiumicino airport. Buy tickets at tabaccherie, newsstands or from vending machines. They come in various forms:
BIT (€1.50) Valid for 100 minutes and one metro ride.
Roma 24h (€7) Valid for 24 hours.
Roma 48h (€12.50) Valid for 48 hours.
Roma 72h (€18) Valid for 72 hours.
BUS
oRome’s public bus service is run by ATAC (%06 5 70 03; www.atac.roma.it).
oThe main bus station is in front of Stazione Termini on Piazza dei Cinquecento, where there’s an information booth (map; Piazza dei Cinquecento; h8am-8pm; mTermini).
oOther important hubs are at Largo di Torre Argentina and Piazza Venezia.
oBuses generally run from about 5.30am until midnight, with limited services throughout the night.
METRO
oRome has two main metro lines, A (orange) and B (blue), which cross at Termini.
oTrains run from 5.30am to 11.30pm (to 1.30am on Fridays and Saturdays).
TAXI
oOfficial licensed taxis are white with a taxi sign on the roof and Roma Capitale written on the front door along with the taxi’s licence number.
oAlways go with the metered fare, never an arranged price (the set fares to/from the airports are exceptions).
oMyTaxi is a good app. It allows you to order a taxi without having to deal with potentially tricky language problems.
iWhere to Stay
Accommodation in Rome is expensive, and with the city busy year round, you’ll want to book as far ahead as you can to secure the best deal and to enjoy top properties. In balmy months look for places with rooftop decks.
| Neighbourhood | Atmosphere |
|---|---|
| Ancient Rome | Close to major sights such as the Colosseum and Roman Forum; quiet at night; not cheap; restaurants are touristy. |
| Centro Storico | Atmospheric area with everything on your doorstep – Pantheon, Piazza Navona, restaurants, bars, shops; most expensive part of town; can be noisy. |
| Tridente, Trevi & the Quirinale | Good for Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and designer shopping; excellent midrange to top-end options; good transport links. |
| Vatican City, Borgo & Prati | Near St Peter’s Basilica; decent range of accommodation; some excellent shops and restaurants; on the metro; not much nightlife; sells out quickly for religious holidays. |
| Monti, Esquilino & San Lorenzo | Lots of budget accommodation around Stazione Termini; top eating in Monti and good nightlife in San Lorenzo; good transport links; some dodgy streets near Termini. |
| Trastevere & Gianicolo | Gorgeous, atmospheric area; party vibe with hundreds of bars, cafes and restaurants; expensive; noisy, particularly in summer. |
| San Giovanni & Testaccio | Authentic atmosphere with good eating and drinking options; Testaccio is a top food and nightlife district; not many big sights. |
| Villa Borghese & Northern Rome | Largely residential area good for the Auditorium and Stadio Olimpico; some top museums; generally quiet after dark. |