SERVES 4
I have always loved celery root rémoulade but during spring I substitute radishes for the celery root and this version is fantastic with fried oysters. To serve, we set a fried oyster in a leaf of Bibb lettuce, and top it with a bit of the rémoulade, fresh herbs, and a healthy squeeze of fresh lemon juice. The little packages are meant to be picked up and eaten out of hand, which our guests love! As it sits, the rémoulade will turn a very pale pink from the radishes—so pretty for spring.
FOR THE RADISH RÉMOULADE
1 bunch red radishes (10–12 ounces), trimmed (a mixture of any type of radishes, including watermelon, lime, black, and daikon is fine)
½ cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons capers
1 tablespoon sliced cornichons
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard
FOR THE OYSTERS
24 medium-to-large oysters, shucked
¾ cup all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 extra large eggs
¼ cup buttermilk
2 cups panko breadcrumbs
Vegetable oil for frying (about 1½ cups)
1 head Bibb lettuce (also known as Boston or butter lettuce), leaves separated
1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
1 tablespoon fresh tarragon or chervil leaves
1 lemon, cut in 4 wedges
TO MAKE THE RÉMOULADE: Julienne the radishes as thinly as possible and gently mix with the mayonnaise, capers, cornichons, lemon juice, and mustard. Place in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid and refrigerate until needed.
TO PREPARE THE OYSTERS: Place the flour in a shallow bowl and add a pinch each of salt and pepper; beat the eggs in a second bowl and stir in the buttermilk; and place the panko in a third bowl. Working with two or three at a time, dredge the oysters in the flour mixture, then dip in the buttermilk and, finally into the panko, pressing lightly to make sure a good coating of panko sticks to the oysters. Set the breaded oysters on a parchment-lined baking sheet and refrigerate until you are ready to fry them. (The oysters may be breaded up to 4 hours in advance.)
Add enough oil to a wide, deep-sided cast-iron Dutch oven or skillet to reach a depth of about 1 inch and heat over medium to medium-high heat until it shimmers. Place the breaded oysters in the hot oil and fry until they begin browning around the edges; turn them and continue frying until golden brown on both sides. Remove with a slotted spoon, set on a baking sheet lined with brown paper or paper towels, and sprinkle with a little salt.
TO ASSEMBLE: Arrange the lettuce leaves on a platter. Top each leaf with a fried oyster and a dollop of rémoulade. Sprinkle with the chives and tarragon and serve immediately with lemon wedges.
BEER PAIRINGS FOR A WATERFRONT LUNCH
The refreshing and full-flavored effervescence of beer is a great choice for a late-spring or early-summer lunch, particularly enjoyed out of doors. Here are three of our top picks:
TRUTH AMERICAN IPA, RHINEGEIST BREWERY, OHIO, USA. ABV 7.20%
This beer is a modern IPA brewed with a nod to the Pacific, tasted in its hop backbone and hint of tropical fruits. Its mango and grapefruit notes provide a soft bitterness that pairs well with oysters. Amarillo, Simcoe, Citra, and Centennial hops are some of the most tropical and citrusy while maintaining a dry finish, complementing the brisk salt air of Nantucket and the brininess of our local oysters.
CRU’S FIFTH BEND OYSTER STOUT, CISCO BREWERS, NANTUCKET, MA, USA. ABV 5.10%
This stout is made exclusively for CRU and uses local Fifth Bend oysters and their shells. Mark Valeriani, lead brewer at Cisco Brewers, in collaboration with the winemaker at Nantucket Vineyards and the distiller at Triple Eight Distillery, directs and oversees production of Fifth Bend Oyster Stout. The brewing coincides with the arrival of spring and Nantucket’s Daffodil Festival. Every year Cisco and CRU coordinate with Simon Edwards at Fifth Bend Oysters for the annual delivery of oysters to begin the brewing process.
In a blind tasting, you won’t necessarily identify this brew as a stout. Lighter and easy to drink for a dark beer in the warm weather, it almost comes across as a dark brown ale with smoked malt tones, coffee notes, and hints of brine. Its soft bitterness, low on hops and bright on minerals, make this oyster stout a good pairing with CRU’s fried oysters and pork belly or Chef Erin’s mussels with chorizo.
JULIUS ECHTER HEFE-WEISSBIER HELL, WURZBURG HOFBRAU, GERMANY. ABV 5.30%
This Hefeweizen comes from one of Germany’s oldest breweries. It’s a cloudy, auburn-colored beer with a full creamy head. Brewed with a mix of 70 percent wheat and 30 percent barley, it also contains a small sediment of yeast that produces a secondary fermentation. Fans enjoy its smooth, creamy texture with barely noticeable hops. We like its medium- to full-bodied characteristics and its flavors of banana nut bread, clove, and nutmeg. A slightly earthy lemon meringue finish makes it a perfect seafood pairing.