Ⓐ Embroidered skirt with gathered waist and lace hem
A simple gathered skirt is brought to life with a regular pattern of embroidery. Drawing in construction marks is easy, as only straight lines are needed. The leaf-like embroidery uses three colors of thread. Torchon lace along the hem makes the skirt even sweeter.
how to make→page 34-35
Ⓑ 12-panel Skirt with Embroidery and Tape Decoration
This neat A-line skirt is created from twelve trapezoid panels. Lines of tape in varying widths and fabrics add a sense of rhythm, while latticework embroidery along the hem lends a couture edge. For a stylish look, use the same color for the tape and the embroidery.
how to make→page 36-37
Ⓒ White Twill A-line Skirt
A wide hem falls from the straight, clean silhouette on this A-line skirt. It has a buttoned opening on the front right and pockets on the back, creating a pleasing appearance from behind as well as in front. Pair it with a striped top for a nautical look.
how to make→page 38-41
Ⓓ Slub Denim Wrap-style Panel Skirt
This wrap-style skirt is accented by the panel attached to the front right, which has a longer hem than the rest of the garment. I think it would look cool worn on the hips in a rough kind of style. It could also be made into a longer version by extending the sides in a straight line.
how to make→page 42-43
Russel Lace
This unashamedly feminine lace skirt is lined with sheeting to give it body. Its flattering line is neat around the hips, with gores beginning below the hips and flaring out to a full hemline. The pink trim in a separate fabric at the waist adds a pretty accent.
how to make→page 44-45
Irregular Hem
Ⓕ Skirt with Lace-trimmed Irregular Hem
There is a strong sense of design to this skirt, which is made from a square piece of material. Black lace attractively accents the movement of the hem when the skirt is worn, while darts in the yoke create a snug fit on the hips. It’s also possible to make by omitting the darts in the yoke and using elastic around the waist instead.
how to make→page 46-47
Box Pleats
Here the classic box pleat skirt is worked in striped linen, with the stripes running vertically on the inner part of the pleats for contrast. As a favorite for spring and summer, this piece is a sure thing, but try it in a different fabric for fall and winter. It would also look great with the inner part of the pleats made in a different fabric.
how to make→page 48-51
Frill
Frills are layered onto a gathered-waist skirt, creating a tiered look. Variations in the frills’ length and width add a sense of movement to the design. Stitch along the edges of the frills using a light colored thread to subtly emphasize the random lines of this design.
how to make→page 52-53
Escargot
Ⓘ Long Jacquard “Escargot” Skirt
The silhouette of this skirt widens towards the hem, which hangs straight. This is achieved by joining trapezoid shapes on the diagonal and attaching a straight hem panel. The end result looks a bit like a snail shell. This skirt would look cute with lace or some other decoration along the skirt panel seams too. The zip is inserted in line with the diagonal seams.
how to make→page 54-55
Irregular Gathering
Ⓙ Skirt with Irregular Gathering
This skirt has gathering at irregular intervals. At the center back, the gathering is lower than at the front for a change of focus. The waist cord can be tied at the side for a different look. Their versatility is one of the great things about skirts sewn using straight lines.
how to make→page 56-57
Wrap Skirt
Ⓚ Wrap Skirt with Frilled Edge
By adding darts around the waist, a skirt drafted and sewn with straight lines becomes more three-dimensional. A gathered frill has been added along the front edge and hem for a sweet touch.
how to make→page 58-59
Pleated Skirts
Ⓛ Trapezoid Skirt with Line Detail
This trapezoid pattern confirms how pleats can create a pleasing silhouette. Joining pleats to panels means that the hem doesn’t flare out too much.
A line of white tape attached near the hemline sharpens the look.
Enjoy a grown-up, nautical style in this skirt that’s much more than plain old navy and white.
how to make→page 60-62
Denim Skirt
Ⓜ Denim Skirt with Patch Pocket
When using denim, I think a simple design is desirable. This skirt has seams positioned at the front right and center back, and the small patch pocket at the front and larger version at the back add subtle details. Waist darts have been added to flatter the hip area.
how to make→page 64-67
Tuck & Lace
Ⓝ Tucked and Gathered Cotton Skirt
In pink and trimmed with lace, this skirt embodies loveliness. Brown grosgrain ribbon has been threaded through the eyelet lace trim, perhaps giving something of a streamlining effect. Use a heavy material to tone down the volume and transform the skirt into a more elegant design.
how to make→page 68-69
Tweed
Ⓞ Tweed Skirt with Panel Detail
This slightly avant-garde skirt has been created by joining squares and triangles of fabric. It hangs smoothly at the back, but is more expressive in the front. Have fun styling it with boots that peek out from under the hem. It would look cute made in denim too.
how to make→page 70-73
Balloon Skirt
The secret to creating a balloon skirt lies in the lining. By gathering the voluminous hem of the outer layer and stitching it to a closer-fitting lining, the material draws up to form a pleasant balloon hemline. Tucks at the waistline give it a neat fit.
how to make→page 74-79
Black Balloon
This mid-length balloon skirt suits both dressed-up and more casual outfits. Use a stiff fabric to create a more voluminous silhouette. A cord is used around the waist, making for flexible sizing.
how to make→page 74-79
Shirring
Ⓡ Skirt with Shirred Yoke and Lace Belt
This skirt has evenly-spaced shirring around the waist and hips. It’s based on a gathered skirt but the shirring means it fits well around the hips. The skirt has a slight bell shape, and the waist belt uses the same lace as the trim around the hem.
how to make→page 80-81
Linen
Ⓢ Linen Skirt with Cargo Pockets
I created this skirt in linen because even if it gets wrinkled, it’s still stylish. With cargo pockets and an A-line shape, this versatile piece works for casual looks but still looks cool. Here it’s worn as a hip-hanger but it would be cute drawn in and worn on the waist.
how to make→page 82-83
Stitch and Tuck
Ⓣ Embroidered Skirt with Horizontal Tuck Pattern
Even though it’s made from simple fabric, with a little effort—embroidery between the tucks—this skirt becomes something special. Making the tucks requires a bit of work, but think of how much satisfaction you’ll get from it.
how to make→page 84-85
Eight Buttons
Ⓤ Eight-button Skirt with Horizontal Stripe Sections
Fabric in three different colors has been used to create horizontal panels in this skirt. Why not try linen in natural shades for a summer version or warm hues in flannel for a winter skirt? Choose buttons in a different color from the fabric to make them stand out.
how to make→page 86-87
Three Colors
Ⓥ 18-panel Skirt in Three Colors
This skirt is made from trapezoid shapes in three colors. Using six pieces of each color, there are 18 panels in all. Some of the seams joining the panels are turned inside out in the manner of French seams. I think adding irregularity such as this gives a simple design some personality. The color combination is up to you!
how to make→page 88-89
Irregular Flare
Ⓦ Eight-panel Irregular Flare Skirt in Lace
At its core, this is a generously proportioned eight-panel skirt, but I’ve added an extra element by using different fabrics within each panel. The various textures of the different black fabrics make the skirt visually interesting, and the zipper sewn on the outside gives it plenty of character.
how to make→page 90-93
C White twill A-line skirt
The lining for the A-line skirt is made from the same pattern as the skirt itself. For skirts such as this, which has a facing, the lining is made without the facing section. There is no seam allowance for the hem, which is made by folding up ⅝-⅞ in (1.5-2cm) of material twice and stitching it into place. This creates a hem about ⅞-1¼ in (2-3cm) shorter than the skirt itself.
G Striped skirt with box pleats
The box pleat skirt also has an A-line silhouette. The lining is made using the same pattern as the skirt but without the pleated section. The skirt has some fullness due to the box pleats, so slits have been made up the sides of the lining to allow it to follow the fall of the skirt. For a 25½-in (65cm) long skirt, slits of about 7⅞-8 in (20cm) should be fine.
P, Q Balloon skirts
For gathered or balloon skirts where there is a lot of fabric, it’s best to use an A-line pattern for the lining. To allow some leeway, there are tucks at the waist. When making a balloon skirt, the hems of the skirt and the lining are sewn together, but for the lining in a regular gathered skirt, fold the hem up three times as per C above.
W Eight-panel irregular flare skirt in lace
For a flared skirt without too much fullness, it’s fine to make the lining from the same pattern as the skirt itself. Joining pattern pieces allows the lining to be made from four panels rather than eight. For a skirt with a full hem, slits on the side are not necessary although you can create them if you wish. Cut the lining pieces to the same length as the skirt pieces without a hem allowance and turn up 1¼ in (3cm) to create the hem.
