Hawaii

THE KONA COAST

Kailua-Kona used to be a peaceful fishing and agricultural village. Mark Twain and Robert Louis Stevenson marveled at its rustic charm around the turn of the 20th century. There are still vestiges of the past, such as Hawai‘i’s oldest missionary church and a replica of Kamehameha the Great’s last home. Almost 200 years ago, the king dedicated his residence to Lono, the god of good harvests and prosperity, who would likely have misgivings about today’s forms of bounty. Since 1970, the population has quadrupled and concrete consumption has zoomed astronomically.

Residential housing, condos, and hotels now line Ali‘i Drive for about 10 miles. From Kamehameha’s home in the north to the Keauhou condo and shopping developments in the south, the coastal boulevard bulges with monuments to a new kind of prosperity. The northern sector of Ali‘i Drive is the center of the action, which in Kailua is largely confined to shops and eating at good-time restaurants.

Other than convenience, perhaps the best reason to stay in Kailua-Kona is ready access to deep-sea fishing. The construction of Kailua-Kona Pier in 1915 near Kamehameha’s home virtually eliminated the town beach. But today the pier is the center of the famous marlin fishing industry and the International Billfishing Tournament each August. Charters go out daily and return in the late afternoon to weigh giant catches on huge scales. Kailua-Kona is also home to the increasingly popular Ironman Triathlon in October.

You may have heard kona used to describe leeward-side weather; basically kona redefines the words sunny and dry.

At the 70-mile stretch south of Kailua-Kona, tourist development abruptly halts and the rural calm of Kailua’s past reemerges. Highway 11 parallels the rocky coast, about 1,000 feet above the Pacific, down to the southern tip of the United States (see “The South Point Area”). The farther south you go, the more macadamia nut trees you’ll see. The Big Island, by the way, produces 90 percent of the state’s nuts. The road is heavily traveled by visitors going to Kealakekua Bay, a popular marine sanctuary for snorkeling and kayaking, and where Captain Cook was killed; Pu‘uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, an ancient religious sanctuary; or all the way to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park (see that chapter).

Located on the fertile slopes rising up to Mauna Loa, the village of Holualoa was once agricultural but is now an artists’ community with galleries occupying the church and former post office. It’s still the heart of Kona coffee district; the old coffee mill is now an artist’s workshop and studio. Lots of cafés serve 100 percent Kona coffee.

GUIDANCE

Kona Historical Society (808-938-8825; konahistorical.org) offers excellent walking tours of downtown with colorful commentary. Tours are booked by reservation only; $15 adults; $7 ages 5–12.

GETTING AROUND

By car: For planning purposes, it takes about two hours nonstop to drive from Kailua-Kona south to the turnoff for South Point. If you’re trying to get to a boat tour on time, keep in mind that traffic around Kailua-Kona creeps during morning and afternoon rush hours. Holualoa is about a 15-minute drive from Kailua-Kona; take Hwy. 19 to Hualalai Road and head uphill along the winding tropical road. The free Keauhou Trolley (808-930-4900, ask for the concierge) stops at major resorts, Kahalu‘u Beach Park, and shopping areas. It only runs every 90 minutes or so, but if someone in your party has taken the car and you want to go into town, you can’t beat it.

To See & Do

In Kailua-Kona

The main part of Ali‘i Drive, shaded by regal banyan trees, is a mere half mile long. It’s most convenient to park at the King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel (75-5660 Palani Rd.), although it’s not free. Many tourist-oriented and specialty shops—bursting at the seams with lilikoi’i jam, Kona coffee, and macadamia nuts—are housed in somewhat atmospheric, open-air shopping malls here, like the boardwalk-style Kona Inn Shopping Village.

BUILDING BLOCKS TO SEVEN PERFECT DAYS IN PARADISE

These regional planners will get you started on how best to dip into the island. Use them as building blocks to create perfect days. But a word of caution: If you try to do everything mentioned, you might not feel like you’re on a vacation. Use them merely as a guide.

Building Blocks for the Perfect Day on Kona Coast

Stroll historic Kailua-Kona in early morning before it gets too hot and overrun with tourists (90 minutes)

Pop in and out of cafés and galleries in Holualoa (2 hours)

Kayak around and swim in Kealakekua Bay (3 hours)

Explore Pu‘uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (three hours)

Take a snorkeling and catamaran trip with Hula Kai or Fair Wind (4 to 5 hours)

King Kamehameha’s Kamakahonu (808-329-2911; konabeachhotel.com/history.cfm), 75-5660 Palani Rd., adjacent to the King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel. After conquering and unifying the islands by 1810, the king lived at this royal compound from 1813 to 1819 (when he died). At that point, his bones were secreted away somewhere in the North Kona area, safely tucked away in a cliffside cave so no one could steal his mana. When the king died, his son Liholiho assumed the throne and promptly upended the apple cart. He decreed that gods needn’t be revered above all else, and he broke tradition by dining with his mother, Ke‘opuolani, and the king’s principal wife, Ka‘ahumanu. The Ahu‘ena Heiau (an impressive replica, especially considering that you’re seeing only about one-third of its actual size) is fascinating. The king lived on these grounds during peacetime, and he dedicated the temple to Lono, the god of harvest and rain. Kahunas gathered at Ahu‘ena to give the king advice, but there is no confirmation that human sacrifices were actually made. The hotel has an informative pamphlet for free self-guided tours, or you can call and reserve a place on a guided tour (donations; 808-327-0123). Perhaps you’ll get lucky, like I did, with a docent whose father restored the heiau.

Kailua-Kona Pier (808-329-4997), downtown, Ali‘i Dr. Dating to 1918, this pier is a hub of activity. You’ll find sunset sailing boats docked here, fishing charters, outrigger canoeists, and the like. The Ironman Triathlon also begins here with a 2.4-mile swim, and locals fish with rods and nets from the seawall.

HULIHE‘E PALACE

Hulihe‘e Palace (808-329-1877; daughtersofhawaii.org), 75-5718 Ali‘i Dr. Open 9–4 daily. This two-story, New England–style church constructed of coral, lava, ‘ohi‘a, and koa wood in 1838 originally served as the vacation home for the island’s governor, who royally enjoyed entertaining royalty here. In the 1880s, King David Kalakaua also used it as a summer home; it’s only one of two royal palaces in the United States. (The other is in Honolulu.) After the palace fell into disrepair, the Daughters of Hawai‘i restored it in the mid-1920s and opened it to the public. (At press time it was under renovation again, scheduled for a late 2008 reopening.) Guided tours are quite informative; you’ll probably not forget the massive four-poster bed or the stunningly intricate inlaid table. Hula shows are held on the palace grounds at 4 PM on the third and fourth Sunday of each month, except June (when it’s on King Kamehameha Day) and December (when it’s on Christmas). $6 adults, $1 children.

Moku‘aikaua Church (808-329-0655), 75-5713 Ali‘i Dr. Across the street from the palace, this New England–style church is the island’s oldest Christian church. It began life as a thatched hut in 1820 but was replaced by this black stone and white coral edifice in 1836. The lava stones, by the way, were taken from a heiau that was supposedly no longer in use.

Beyond Downtown

Lekeleke Burial Grounds and Kuamo‘o Battlefield, at the southern end of Ali‘i Dr. This sacred spot, about a 10-minute drive from downtown, is the burial site of about 300 soldiers. When Liholiho became king and changed the laws, Chief Kekuaokalani challenged him here and much blood was shed.

Ellison S. Onizuka Space Center (808-329-3441; hawaiimuseums.org/mc/ishawaii_astronaut.htm), at the Kona airport, 1 Keahole St. Open 8:30–4:30 daily. About 7 miles north of Kailua-Kona, this center is dedicated to the Big Island–born astronaut who perished in 1986 in the space shuttle Challenger tragedy. Interactive exhibits include what it feels like to be weightless in space and in a shuttle launch; it’s great fun for kids. $3 adults, $1 ages 12 and under.

Natural Energy Laboratory of Hawai‘i Authority (NELHA) (808-329-7341; nelha.org) near MM 94, 73-4460 Queen Ka‘ahumanu Hwy. Open 8–4 weekdays. If you’re an NPR Science Friday type or a New York Times Science Tuesday type, NELHA will fascinate you. A combination of sun and science create conditions here for novel aquaculture techniques and ground-breaking oceanic conservation. Self-guided tours free; reservations ($8 for adults, $5 for students and seniors) required for public presentations Mon.–Thurs., third Saturday of the month, from 10 AM.

NELHA

Honokohau Harbor, off Hwy. 19 about 5 miles north of Kailua-Kona. Many boating and snorkeling trips depart from here. You’ll find whale-watching and fishing charters here, too.

Coffee and Holualoa, Hwy. 180. This funky little village is the heart of Kona coffee country, a region that stretches for about 20 miles, where trees thrive at an elevation of 1,000 to 1,400 feet. Before setting out for deep exploration in search of the ever-elusive perfect brew, pick up the Coffee Country Driving Tour brochure from the Big Island Visitor’s Bureau in Waikoloa (see Guidance under “The Kohala Coast”). The Big Island is the only place in the United States where coffee is commercially grown. It was first planted on O‘ahu in 1825 and migrated in 1828 to the Big Island, where it thrives in rich volcanic soil. When coffee began its gourmet ascent in the 1980s, Kona coffee beans rose with the market’s tide. The commodity is priced like barrels of crude oil these days: sky high. Thanks to the lobbying efforts of Governor Linda Lingle, the White House began serving exclusively Kona coffee in 2003. For more information, see Coffee…Did You Know? (p. 371).

Holualoa has cultivated more than coffee trees, though. It has a nice blend of galleries, cafés, little shops, many B&Bs, and even an old-fashioned gas station and an old general store. You should also come to Holualoa for the shade and moderate temperatures.

South of Kailua-Kona (from North to South)

Kainaliu, around MM 113, Hwy. 11. This blink-and-you’ll-miss-it village is worth a momentary diversion for its authentic Aloha Theater and some marvelous old Japanese-owned stores (like Kimura’s, dating to the 1920s).

Kona Historical Society Museum (808-323-3222; konahistorical.org), between MM 111 and 112, Hwy. 11, Kealakekua. Open 10–2 weekdays. Also known as the Greenwell Store, this mid-19th-century homestead consisted of a post office, cattle ranch, houses, and a general store; the latter is all that remains. It houses artifacts and photographs that help illuminate what daily life was like on a ranch back in the 1850s. You can also glean some information about the world of Kona coffee. $7 adults, $3 children.

By late 2008 a fancy new visitors center should be completed. Also, keep your ears open about their new Kona Heritage Ranch, which will depict a day in the life of a Big Island rancher circa 1890.

The organization offers excellent tours of the circa-1900 coffee farm that depicts life for a Japanese farm family, complete with costumed docents playing the parts. It’s quite illustrative. Open 10–2 Mon.–Fri.; $20 adults, $7.50 ages 5–12.

Hikiau Heiau, end of Napo‘opo‘o Rd., off Hwy. 11. When Captain Cook landed on the Big Island in 1778, he was honored as a god at this heiau, where only the stone platform remains.

Kealakekua Bay, end of Napo‘opo‘o Rd., Captain Cook. This protected marine park is home to sea caves, pods of dolphins, healthy coral reefs, abundant colorful fish that live within them, and snorkelers who want to be part of their ecosystems for a few hours. (See Outdoor Activities.) Before Captain Cook arrived here in November 1778, it was considered the center of Hawaiian life. It’s safe to say that by landing here, he changed the course of Hawai‘i’s history. When Cook returned the second time, he was killed here.

COFFEE…DID YOU KNOW?

Kona coffee is the only coffee grown in the United States for commercial use.
Kona coffee is grown only on the western slopes of the great volcanic mountains Mauna Loa and Hualalai, between 800-and 2,000-foot elevations.
The coffee tree takes two years to produce “first fruit,” but four years to reach full maturity and produce a commercial crop.
In one year, one coffee tree will produce only enough fruit to make 1 pound of roasted coffee.
The coffee tree is a member of the gardenia family.
More than a billion pounds of coffee are consumed every year in the U.S.

Terms Describing Green Coffee Beans (Prior to Roasting)

Color: From blue-green to yellow-green and brown dependent on geo graphic origin, species, age, method of processing, maturity, and conditions of storage and transport
Black jack: Coffee that has turned black after the full process during transportation or during processing
Clean: A well-graded coffee free of defects
Parchment: Dried coffee still in the outer skin prior to hulling
Quakers: Often referred to as stinkers or floaters, these are unripe or blighted beans—coffee picked when the coffee cherry is still green
Screen: The general term for size gradings based on the mesh or screen size through which the beans may be retained while grading
Sound: Good marketable coffee
Bold: A large to very large, well-formed, and even coffee bean

Terms Describing Brewed Coffee

Acid: Sharp and pleasing characteristic particularly strong with certain origins—as opposed to one with a caustic, overfermented, sour, or bitter flavor
Body: Strong, full, pleasant characteristic as opposed one tasting thin
Coarse: A raspy and harsh flavor; one lacking finesse
Erpsig: Potato flavor
Earthy: Groundlike, wet-earth flavor that comes after storage with dam aged coffees
Fiery: Bitter charcoal taste generally due to overroasting
Grassy: Greenish grassy or greenish flavor, particularly strong with early-crop Arabics that have been picked prematurely
Muddy: Dull, indistinct, and thickish flavor, perhaps due to grounds being agitated
Rank: Dirty, unpleasant flavor due to contamination or overfermentation
Fine: Coffee with distinct quality characteristics such as acid, body, etc.—Compliments of Hawai‘i Coffee Company (see To See & Do, “Greater Honolulu,” in the O‘ahu section)

Cook and his sailors were welcomed with open arms when they first sailed into the bay. It was harvest season, and he was considered by many to be the personification of the god Lono. Cook sailed out of the bay four months later, but he was forced to return because of bad weather. His second coming was not greeted as kindly. Upon learning that one of his longboats had been stolen, Cook and his men went to retrieve it, and he wound up getting shot on Valentine’s Day 1779.

Captain Cook Monument, alongside Kealakekua Bay. This obelisk marks the spot where Cook was killed. But because of his observations to the outside world, changes had already been put in motion. It wouldn’t be long before missionaries and whalers, drunken sailors and disease would irrevocably alter this paradise. Most visitors see the monument from a snorkeling tour or land with their rental kayak. But you can also hike here. The trailhead for this three-hour (2.5-mile) intermediate hike is near the three royal palm trees on Napo‘opo‘o Rd. near the intersection with Hwy. 11. Per usual, bring plenty of water.

St. Benedict’s Painted Church (808-328-2227), off Hwy. 160. Belgian priests worked hard at converting Hawaiians. This quirky and somewhat Gothic church is filled with hand-painted scenes from the Bible. Because Hawaiians were illiterate, the Belgian priest-painter figured the pictures would help explain the stories and teachings. This vantage point affords great views of Kealakekua Bay.

Pu‘uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park (808-328-2288; nps.gov/puho), on Hwy. 160, off Hwy. 11, Honaunau. Visitors center open 8–5 daily; park open 7 AM–8 PM daily. About 3.5 miles off Hwy. 11 and about 20 miles south of Kailua-Kona, this 16th-century sacred place of refuge was beautifully restored and converted into a national historical park in 1961. You’ll want to take a very good self-guided tour, looking for thatched hales, fishponds, burial sites, and other areas that illuminate the earliest ways of life in Hawai‘i. It’s called a “place of refuge” for very specific reasons. If you broke any of the strict laws of the times (pertaining to sex or land ownership, for instance), there was only one way to achieve absolution. If you could get here—through, around, or over the 10-foot-high, 17-foot-thick, and 1,000-foot-long wall surrounding the place—before the “authorities” got to you, you’d be safe. Don’t miss the royal heiau on the premises, Hale-o-Keawe. $5 per vehicle or $3 per person.

CAPTAIN COOK MONUMENT

Outdoor Activities

BICYCLING

Hawaiian Pedals (808-329-2294; Kona Inn Shopping Village, Ali‘i Dr.) and HP Bike Works (808-326-2453; hpbikeworks.com), both in Kailua-Kona. These shops carry a wide range of cycling clothes and accessories if you forgot to pack your gear, and they’ll recommend cycling routes based on your preferences and abilities. Mountain bikes and hybrids rent by the half day ($15), full day ($20), or week ($70); add another $5 daily for a rack. More advanced cyclists will want to stop by HP Bike Works at 74-5583 Luhia St., where a larger rental selection of bikes is available. Rent a rack and head to Volcano Village or ask about many nearby road excursions that are traversed for the Ironman Triathlon.

DIVING

Since I’ve never been diving, contact the experts: Jack’s Diving Locker (1-800-345-4807; jacksdivinglocker.com) or Bottom Time (808-331-1858; bottomtime hawaii.com), both in Kona, for the lowdown on the deep down. Highly consider night diving with the graceful manta rays with either outfitter. According to friends, it’s otherwordly, and it’s changed the lives of everyone I know who’s done it.

FISHING

Honokohau Marine Charters (808-329-5735 or 1-888-566-2487; charterdesk.com), Honokohau Harbor, north of Kailua-Kona. Trips daily. You don’t have to travel far to catch big game: blue marlin, mahimahi, swordfish, and yellowfin tuna are common just 3 miles offshore. If you want to keep your catch, discuss your options when making reservations. This company books over 50 vessels—choose your boat based upon availability, what type of fish you’re looking for, and your group size. Parties of up to six can charter the 35-foot Cabo Howbaddoy-ouwantit; when you tire of fishing, you can soak up the sun on its beautiful bridge. An eight-hour excursion costs $700 ($500 for four hours). Regular charters run $500–900 for a full day, $300–600 for a half day.

GOLF

Swing Zone (808-329-6909), 74-5562 Makala Blvd., Kailua-Kona. Open 10–9 daily. Though this par-3 practice course may be only six holes, it’s not child’s play. To brush up your skills, play an unlimited number of rounds for a one-time fee of $14; club rentals cost $11. There’s also a driving range (60 balls for 6 bucks) and a newly refurbished 18-hole putting course ($7) shaped like the Big Island. Batting cages keep kids occupied while you’re loosening your hips and perfecting your swing.

PU‘UHONA O HONAUNAU

HIKING

See Captain Cook Monument under To See & Do.

HORSEBACK RIDING (& SNORKELING)

King’s Trail Rides (808-323-2388; konacowboy.com), near MM 111, Hwy. 11, Kealakekua. Trips daily. This outfit leads small groups of six and fewer people down hills dense with vegetation that lead to sweeping views of Kealakekua Bay. Bring a bathing suit (they’ll supply a snorkel and mask), because riders can also swim and explore along the bay’s protected marine preserve. The four-hour trip includes a two-hour ride and picnic lunch at Captain Cook Monument; children over seven welcome. $135 weekdays, $150 weekends.

KAYAKING & CANOEING

Aloha Kayak (808-322-2868; alohakayak.com), MM 114, Hwy. 11, 8 miles south of Kailua-Kona. Trips Mon.–Sat. If you’re interested in mixing natural history and culture lessons with kayaking, take their four-hour cave and snorkeling expedition ($79 adults, $40 ages 12 and under) that explores hidden coastal recesses. It’s a personal favorite. Perhaps surprisingly, the most relaxing tour is a six-hour open-water paddle to Captain Cook Monument ($159 adults, ages 12 and under half price). Gear, snacks, and beverages are included on all trips. Aloha Kayak also rents boats for $35 single, $60 double; reserve at least 24 hours in advance.

SNORKELING & BOAT TRIPS

Snorkel Bob’s (808-329-0770; snorkelbob.com), 75-5831 Kahakai Rd. (at Huggo’s), Kailua-Kona. Open daily. For rental gear galore, nobody beats Bob’s. Don’t skimp on equipment—top-of-the-line gear costs $11 daily ($44 weekly) for a mask, snorkel, and fins. Bob’s will point you to the Big Island’s best snorkeling spots based on your abilities. Start out about 4 miles south of the store in Kahalu‘u; head 30 miles south to Kealakekua Bay for pristine waters accessible by boat or kayak near Captain Cook Monument; or continue farther to City of Refuge (Pu‘uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park).

HULA KAI

Hula Kai (808-322-2788 or 1-800-677-9461; fair-wind.com), office at 78-7130 Kaleiopapa St., Kailua-Kona; boats depart from Keauhou Bay; inquire about parking nearby. Since this high-tech hydrofoil is able to bring passengers farther than any other boat plying these waters, you’ll reach two snorkeling sites (including Pali Kaholo) the likes of which you’ve probably never seen. The crew is top-notch, the healthy food is delicious, and the snorkeling is brilliant. When the boat is stopped, patio-style umbrellas are brought out to shelter you from the sun while dining and dipping into the water. Expect a whopping three hours of snorkeling time. Bring sunscreen, towels, a swimsuit, and a light jacket. $149 per person; the five-hour trip departs at 9:30 AM.

SEA QUEST EXCURSIONS

Fair Wind Cruises (808-322-2788 or 1-800-677-9461; fair-wind.com), office at 78-7130 Kaleiopapa St., Kailua-Kona; boats depart from Keauhou Bay; inquire about parking nearby. Trips daily. Perfect for practically everyone, this 60-foot catamaran carries 100 passengers and heads to the Kealakekua Bay marine sanctuary at Captain Cook Monument, where calm waters draw spinner dolphins. Snorkelers can peer below the water’s surface while sun soakers can float above it. There’s even a water slide on board (and toilets); all gear is included. The four-and-a-half-hour morning trip has longer periods of bright sunshine; it includes continental breakfast and barbecue lunch. The slightly shorter afternoon cruise (departing at 2 PM) includes snacks. $109–119 adults, $69–75 ages 12 and under.

Captain Zodiac (808-329-3199; captainzodiac.com), 5 miles south of the Kona airport at Honokohau Harbor. Trips daily. How is this snorkeling trip to Kealakekua different from the others? It uses those rigid-hull, inflatable boats used by Navy SEALs and carries only 18 passengers (including crew). Since the ride can be bumpy and the boat fast moving, pregnant women, small children, and delicate adults should seek a more tranquil tour like Fair Wind. This four-hour expedition includes snorkeling and cruising alongside the canopy of sea caves and lava tubes in Kealakekua Bay—home to spinner dolphins and their offspring. $90 adults, $75 ages 4–12; snacks and beverages included.

Sea Quest (808-329-7238; seaquesthawaii.com), Keauhou Bay Pier; inquire about parking. Trips daily. Because groups are limited to six or 12 people, this is an intimate trip in small inflatable boats that hug the coastline. These boats allow passengers to check out sea caves and lava tubes tucked into protective coves where most other boats can’t go. Snorkelers explore pristine coral reefs at the Place of Refuge (Honaunau), where green sea turtles congregate, and then continue on to Kealakekua and the Captain Cook Monument for more snorkeling. Unlike the big boats that must anchor, these small, hard-bottomed rafts slowly drift along the bay. The four-hour morning trip costs $89 adults ($72 ages 5–12); the three-hour afternoon trip (which doesn’t include a stop at Honaunau) is $15–20 less; gear, drinks, and snacks included.

SUBMARINE

Atlantis Submarine (1-800-548-6262; atlantisadventures.com), 5656 Kuakini Hwy. (below Cassandra’s Restaurant), Kailua-Kona. Daily departures 10–1. Explore the waters off Kailua-Kona Pier in a state-of-the-art, 48-passenger sub. From a dry bench seat, you can observe an extensive coral reef teeming with tropical fish, white tip reef sharks, moray eels, and manta rays. Although the vessel is 100 feet below sea level, cabin pressure is the same as it is on the surface. Check in 30 minutes before departure at the pier, where you’ll take a short boat ride to the vessel and descend by ladder to the cabin below. The hour-long trip includes 35 minutes underwater and 25 minutes back and forth from the pier. Claustrophobic visitors need not apply. $80 adults, $42 ages 12 and under.

SURFING

Ocean Eco Tours (808-324-7873; oceanecotours.com), Kailua-Kona. Daily trips. Big Island surfing is best left to the already initiated. Swells are big on the north and leeward shores in the wintertime; the opposite shores get summertime waves. If you have your heart set on learning, call these guys and they’ll teach you in two and a half hours ($95 per person, including gear).

If you’re heading out on your own, go to Pacific Vibrations (808-329-4140; across from the Kailua-Kona Pier) for board rentals, which cost $15 for short boards, $20 for long boards.

WHALE-WATCHING

Captain Dan McSweeney (808-322-0028; ilovewhales.com), 5 miles south of the Kona airport at Honokohau Harbor. Twice-daily trips mid-Dec.–April; thrice weekly July–mid-Dec. A humpback whale expert since the late 1970s, marine mammal researcher Dan McSweeney captains Lady Ann and heads into humpback breeding ground where you’ll likely hear them singing and observe newborn calves and mating behavior. The popular morning cruise tends to be calmer and cooler and affords better lighting for photos. Book as early as possible; reservations are required. During the summer months, Captain Dan also knows where to find the pilot, sperm, and other whales that summer here. If Captain Dan doesn’t find the whales (highly unlikely), he’ll take you out again. Three-hour cruises; boarding begins at 7 AM and 11 AM. $80 adults, $70 ages 11 and under.

TOP 10 PLACES TO STAY ON THE KONA COAST

Best Intimate & Affordable Lodgings

Kona Tiki Hotel

Horizon Guest House

Best Resorts & Condos for Families

Outrigger Kanaloa at Kona

Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa

Best B&Bs

Holualoa Inn

Best Values

Kona Magic Sands

Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort

Best Unusual Places

Silver Oaks Guest Ranch

Dragonfly Ranch

Manago Hotel

Beaches

In order of preference.

Kahalu‘u Beach Park, Ali‘i Dr., between Kailua-Kona and Keauhou. Really, really popular with locals and visitors, especially on the weekends, Kahalu‘u is great for swimming and snorkeling because of a good offshore reef. Families like the shallow waters and spotting endangered sea turtles, but watch out for a strong riptide during winter high tides. Facilities: restrooms, showers, limited parking (even though it receives upward of 1,000 people a day), lifeguard, water activity rentals.

White Sands Beach (aka Magic Sands Beach and Disappearing Sands Beach), Ali‘i Dr., about 4.5 miles south of Kailua-Kona between Kailua-Kona and Keauhou. So nicknamed because winter and high tides wash the grains away, this is a small patch of white sand. Its calm waters are perfect for learning how to boogie board and snorkel. Facilities: restrooms, showers, limited parking, lifeguard, volleyball.

Lodging

About half the island’s beds are located in condos and hotels along a 5-mile, lava-strewn, oceanfront strip in and around Kailua-Kona. Most are relatively modestly priced (but showing some age) and convenient to activities. When planning a trip, remember that high season generally runs mid-Dec.–mid-April. Also, Kailua-Kona is packed for the Ironman Triathlon in mid-Oct. The little village of Holualoa, upslope, is markedly different.

RESORTS & HOTELS

Kailua-Kona

Kona Tiki Hotel (808-329-1425; konatiki.com), 75-5968 Ali‘i Dr. About a mile south of town and thus well removed from the bustle, this friendly three-story is a great value. Perhaps one of the best in the state. Along with oceanside lanais and a complimentary breakfast served poolside (which is also oceanside), the traditional hotel has guest rooms with pleasant décor. Book early or tempt disappointment; don’t bother getting your hopes up for the winter season.

Rates: $; three-night minimum (seven-night minimum Oct. and Dec.). Facilities and amenities: 15 rooms and suites, pool, no TVs or phones in room, no credit cards.

King Kamehameha Kona Beach Hotel (808-329-2911 or 1-800-367-6060; konabeachhotel.com), 75-5660 Palani Rd. Known locally as the King Kam, this hotel is situated on the same grounds where the former king lived. (In the lobby you’ll find a display of artifacts from his life including an ahu’ula, a feather cape, and a mahi’ole, a feather helmet.) Because of that, and because it’s next to the pier, the place sees a lot of foot traffic. One person’s “central location” is another person’s “Penn Station.” Although the guest rooms won’t win any awards for aesthetics, they’re clean and simple and great for families. Try to get a room on the top two floors, and ask about packages. Rates: $$–$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 460 rooms and suites, pool, small beach, water sport rentals, activity desk, parking (fee).

Uncle Billy’s Kona Bay Hotel (808-961-5818 or 1-800-367-5102; unclebilly.com), 75-5739 Ali‘i Dr. Across the street from the ocean, with a prime downtown location, these two-and four-story buildings are something of an institution with visitors from neighbor islands. Public space has serious Polynesian overtones. As for the guest rooms, they were renovated in 2006, but the décor remains simple and the modest amenities keep the prices down. All of the rooms have a mini fridge. If you’re a light sleeper, sleep elsewhere. Rates: $–$$; children free in parent’s room; Internet specials available. Facilities and amenities: 144 rooms and suites, shallow pool.

South Kailua-Kona

Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa (808-930-4900 or 1-866-837-4256; sheratonkeauhou.com), 78-128 Ehukai St., Keauhou. New to the scene in 2004 (when it reopened after a $70 million renovation and after re-branding as a Sheraton), this resort is about 15 minutes south of Kailua-Kona proper. Because it’s perched on a rocky lava shoreline, it pays special attention to its water features—a two-tiered pool system linked by little rivers, a lava tube water slide, and a separate children’s pool with a sandy bottom. There’s no beach, but there are unobstructed views of Keauhou Bay, which don’t get much better in this neck of the woods. As for the guest rooms, they’re large and comfortably elegant with a natural color palette and plush bedding. Staff is friendly. Don’t miss having a drink in the lounge at sunset. Rates: $$$–$$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 521 rooms and suites, pools, beach, two restaurants (including Kai, see Dining Out), three tennis courts (free), Ho‘ola Spa, concierge, children’s programs, parking (fee).

Outrigger Keauhou Beach Resort (808-322-3441 or 1-800-688-7444; outrigger.com), 78-6740 Ali‘i Dr., Keauhou. There’s a fair amount to recommend in this value-oriented hotel. Sea turtles lounge on the shoreline of the 10-acre, seven-story property, much of which hangs out over a lagoon; it’s adjacent to the great Kahalu‘u Beach (for snorkeling); golf is within a mile; the grounds are lush and include a reconstructed 19th-century summer cottage of King Kalakaua (the resort sits on royal land); and the resort underwent a soft renovation in 2007. As for the rooms, they’re on the small side; space aside, spring for the ocean-view quarters. Rates: $$–$$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 309 rooms and suites, pool, nice oceanside bar, forgettable restaurant, six tennis courts, fitness room, concierge, spa, children’s programs, water sport rentals, Internet in room, parking (fee).

Manago Hotel (808-323-2642; managohotel.com), Hwy. 11, Captain Cook. They don’t make ’em like this anymore. This family-owned and family-operated institution hasn’t changed much since it was built in 1917. Walk through the front door, and you’ll feel like you’re in a time warp. (Even if you don’t stay here, stop in and have a gander.) Although all rooms are Spartan (to say the least), splurge for one with a private bath and hope for one on the top floor because of (distant) ocean views. Rooms surround a quaint Japanese courtyard garden with a koi pond. The very friendly Manago family will be pleased to make your acquaintance. The hotel is about 12 miles south of downtown Kailua-Kona.

Rates: $ with private bath. Facilities and amenities: 64 rooms (42 with private bath), restaurant, bar, no phones or TVs (or anything much hanging on the walls).

CONDOS & APARTMENTS

Kailua-Kona

Kona By The Sea (808-327-2300 or 1-877-997-6667; resortquesthawaii.com), 75-6106 Ali‘i Dr. This ResortQuest property, last renovated in 2004, is a good find for families and friends, as long as you don’t mind driving to the beach. The one-and two-bedroom condos are spacious; all have ocean views. Reserve one close to the ocean, and you’ll hear waves crashing throughout the night. There’s no better place to be at sunset than on your lanai. Rates: $$$–$$$$; Internet specials available (especially during low season); two-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: 71 units, oceanfront pool, concierge, spa, tennis courts, Internet (fee), free parking.

Kona Magic Sands (808-329-3333 or 1-800-244-4752; konahawaii.com), 77-6452 Ali‘i Dr. If you want to swim from this condo complex, you’d better stay in the summer; the beach disappears because of tides in winter. A great value (especially given that it is oceanfront, wedged between two beaches), the studios here are all individually owned but generally are oceanfront, large, and airy. They all have great westward-facing lanais, too. Rates: $–$$. Facilities and amenities: 15 units in the rental pool, restaurant, pool, Internet in some units (fee), free parking.

Royal Sea Cliff Resort (808-329-8021 or 1-800-688-7444; outrigger.com), 75-6040 Ali‘i Dr. The Royal Sea Cliff looks like a sleek Dallas apartment complex lost in the Pacific—the design fits handsomely on a lava-rock shoreline that fronts the property. Fountains, waterfalls, and fishponds tumble toward the sea, through a tiered courtyard between the two wings of the condominium. The building is large and sprawling, but the architecture conceals its size, and lanais offer a sense of privacy. The priority for lodging here should be an oceanview unit close to the Pacific, preferably one of the corner units with a big concrete sundeck in addition to the tiled lanai. Condos are furnished in a minimalist style; kitchens are fully equipped; there’s daily maid service. Rates: $$–$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 62 apartments, two pools, tennis court (free), activity desk.

South of Kailua-Kona

Outrigger Kanaloa at Kona (808-322-9625 or 1-800-688-7444; outrigger.com), 78-261 Manukai St., Keauhou. These handsome, brown, low-rise wooden buildings—the most exclusive accommodations in the Kailua-Kona area—are nestled between the rocky shores of Keauhou Bay and the green fairways of the Kona Country Club. Although there is shoreline access for snorkeling, there is no beach. Two of three free-form swimming pools, though, take center stage on the property. Another pool is seaside. Kanaloa condos have one or two bedrooms, although some two-bedroom units are actually lofts that can sleep eight people. Most are furnished in similarly smart fashion. All units have koa kitchen cabinets; some oceanfront units have whirlpool tubs. If you don’t need a gleaming white beach outside your door, your dollar goes a long way here. Rates: one-bedrooms $$$$, two-bedrooms $$$–$$$$; children free in parent’s room. Facilities and amenities: 166 units, three pools, oceanside bar, decent Bar & Grill restaurant, two tennis courts (free), concierge, golf, dial up Internet (fee), free parking.

BED & BREAKFASTS AND COTTAGES

Kailua-Kona

Silver Oaks Guest Ranch (808-325-2000 or 1-877-325-2300; silveroaksranch.com), 73-4570 Mamalahoa, Kailua-Kona. This family-friendly place is one of the most welcoming places to stay on the island. Your resoundingly knowledgeable hosts, Amy and Rick Decker, offer a 10-acre working ranch complete with goats, horses, and chickens. Although it’s 5 miles north of downtown and sits at a pleasant elevation of 1,300 feet, it’s a world away. Guest rooms are lovely, starter breakfast items are supplied for your first night, and all the little amenities you can think of are provided. Rates: $–$$; five-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: three cottages and two rooms (one with a kitchen), pool, hot tub, beach gear, TV, phone, no A/C, no smoking, full kitchens, WiFi (free), washer-dryer.

Nancy’s Hideaway (808-325-3132 or 1-866-325-3132; nancyshideaway.com), 75-1530 U‘anani Pl., Kailua-Kona. A few miles above Kailua-Kona in Upcountry, Nahele Cottage is a one-bedroom guest house with ocean-views and a kitchenette. Nohea Studio is separate from the main house, with a private entrance and the same expansive views. Both are light and airy with functional furnishings and not a lot of fuss. Rates: $; three-night minimum; not suitable for children under 13. Facilities and amenities: two units, TV, phone, no A/C, smoking on lanai only, continental breakfast, WiFi (free).

South of Kailua-Kona

Holualoa Inn (808-324-1121 or 1-800-392-1812; holualoainn.com), 76-5932 Mamalahoa Hwy., Holualoa. In the cool hills above bustling Kailua-Kona, this contemporary open-air retreat sits nestled among grazing cattle and Kona coffee fields. It’s a different world up here, an enchanting balance of the artistic and agrarian. Westerly ocean views from the rooftop gazebo and swimming pool are expansive. Cool, gentle breezes drifting through the house are magical, the sensibilities relaxed. Converted to a B&B in 1988 after a stint as the vacation home of a Hawaiian art collector and newspaperman, the inn is now owned by Sandy Hazen, an area coffee farmer. She offers a stylish alternative to resort and condo living. Rough cedar walls and eucalyptus floors are a treat. More than 7,000 square feet of casually comfortable space rambles under high, open-beam ceilings. A ground-floor common area holds guest refrigerators, a microwave, loaner coolers, and beach mats, as well as the inn’s only TV. Rates: $$$; children over 13 welcome; two-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: six suites, large pool, Jacuzzi, full breakfast by a bona fide chef, no A/C, no phones.

Hale Hualalai (808-326-2909; hale-hualalai.com), 74-4968 Mamalahoa Hwy., Holualoa. One of the best aspects of staying here is host Lonn Armour’s breakfasts. A professional chef for 25 years, Lonn serves up fancy breakfasts alongside his own 100 percent Kona coffee. As for the contemporary rooms, each suite has an expansive ocean view, a private (westward facing) lanai, and a private entrance for utmost privacy. The 675-square-foot spaces are outfitted with beamed ceilings and lots of wood. Rates: $$; two-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: two rooms, TV, phone, no A/C, no smoking, full breakfast, WiFi (free), Jacuzzi.

Dragonfly Ranch (808-328-2159 or 1-800-487-2159; dragonflyranch.com), 84-5146 Keala O Keawe Rd., Honaunau. Easily characterized as an ecotreehouse straight out of a Swiss Family Robinson movie, this is one of the most unique indoor and outdoor retreats in the state. Only communal, almost-rustic types need apply; it’s an easygoing, bohemian atmosphere. The host, Barbara Moore, offers lomi lomi massages as a gift to guests, and you may join her and other guests in the preparation of communal dinners. Every configuration of accommodation is here: studio, room, cottage, and suite. Check out the Web site for colorful photos that do it justice. Dragonfly is about 20 miles south of Kailua-Kona. Rates: $–$$; five-night minimum requested. Facilities and amenities: six units (three-night minimum), phone, no A/C, no smoking, full and organic (excellent) breakfasts, kitchenette in cottage, WiFi (free), communal suppers available upon request.

Horizon Guest House (808-328-2540 or 1-888-328-8301; horizonguesthouse.com), Honaunau. Want to really get away from it all? This gated place sits on 50 acres at 1,100-foot elevation, is within a 10-minute drive of a small beach, boasts panoramic ocean views from every room, and has a beautiful (clothing optional) infinity pool and hot tub. Originally built as a B&B, it has four guest rooms staggered for privacy and outfitted with Hawaiian antiques, king beds, and hand-stitched quilts. For quiet nights, when you don’t want to trek into town for dinner, there’s a well-stocked barbecue area and a media room for movies, music, or reading (preferably not all at once). And to fully take advantage of its airy and cool surroundings, the house completely opens to the outdoors. Rates: $$$; two-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: nice buffet breakfast, media room, Internet access, pool, beach gear, no smoking, no A/C, no phones in rooms (but house phone available).

Aloha Guest House (808-328-8955 or 1-800-897-3188; alohaguesthouse.com), Honaunau. Located 45 minutes south of the Kona airport at 1,500-foot elevation, this tropical property is best accessed with a four-wheel-drive vehicle. (The road can be intimidating.) All of the five units have private bath and ocean views, but some have 180-degree ocean views, and one has a Jacuzzi. Outdoor communal space includes many lanais and a hot tub; indoor shared space includes a kitchen and a living area with TV, DVD, Internet access, and a video library. The charming German host offers the option of breakfast delivered to your room or served in the main dining area. The cottage (with phone and TV) is perfect for those wanting more privacy and your own kitchen; it requires a five-night minimum stay. Rates: $–$$$. Facilities and amenities: five rooms, full breakfast, beach gear, Internet, phone, TV, no smoking.

Tara Cottage (1-800-262-9912; best bnb.com), Honaunau. Even if you lived in the Kealakekua Bay area, you’d probably want to vacation at this first-class cottage. (At the very least, you’d put your relatives up here.) It’s a romantic, honeymoon kind of place where details matter. A large lanai overlooks exquisitely landscaped grounds and the bay below, a tropical outdoor shower feels very private, and a complete kitchen is tucked into an alcove. Unless you need something from the owner, you’ll be on your own here—which is precisely why you chose Tara Cottage, right? Enjoy morning coffee from beans grown on the farm. Rates: $$; three-night minimum. Facilities and amenities: phone, no A/C, no smoking.

CAMPING

For information about camping near Pu‘uhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park Historical Park or at Ho‘okena Beach County Park, contact the Department of Parks and Recreation (808-961-8311; hawaii-county.com). The two parks are approximately 10–15 miles apart.

Where to Eat

Plenty of restaurants line Ali‘i Drive and have full-on ocean views, but there aren’t a lot that’ll knock your culinary senses silly. That said, there are a few gems, and none will disappoint. There’s no shortage of places to get a caffeine buzz on.

TOP 10 (PLUS ONE) PLACES TO EAT IN KONA & KOHALA

Pricey

Hualalai Grille (The Kohala Coast)

Roy’s Waikoloa Bar & Grille (The Kohala Coast)

Canoe House (The Kohala Coast)

Brown’s Beach House (The Kohala Coast)

Norio’s Sushi Bar & Restaurant (The Kohala Coast)

Kenichi Pacific (The Kona Coast)

Moderate

Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill (The Kona Coast)

O’s Bistro (The Kona Coast)

Cheap Eats

Island Lava Java (The Kona Coast)

The Coffee Shack (The Kona Coast)

Java on the Rocks (The Kona Coast)

HUGGO’S

DINING OUT

Kailua-Kona

O’s Bistro (808-327-1153), Crossroads Shopping Center, 75-1027 Henry St. Open 10–9 daily. Noodles rule at O’s Bistro—oodles and oodles of them, in fact! O’s global menu ranges from saimin with Peking duck and pad Thai to udon, orzo, and vermicelli. It’s a whole lotta fun here, and the setting is quite pleasant. Noodles $$–$$$, main dishes $$$–$$$$.

Huggo’s (808-329-1493; huggos.com), 75-5828 Kahakai Rd. Open for lunch and dinner daily. In business since 1969, Huggo’s is many things to many people. At sunset the thatched-roof Huggo’s on the Rocks is the place for torch-lit tropical drinks, appetizers, and light meals of burgers, sashimi, or salads. In the morning,

Java on the Rocks (open 6–11 AM daily) takes over and is the great spot for coffee and breakfast. There’s truth in advertising here: This water’s-edge location is truly “on the rocks,” complete with crashing waves. The “regular” Huggo’s still has great water views, but dishes are more serious: seafood (including local lobster, Kona poke, and blackened ahi sashimi) is its raison d’être. Portions are quite hefty. It’s also the kind of place where the most popular dessert is Hualalai Pie, an ice cream sundae by any other name. Reservations recommended; children’s menu. Breakfast $, lunch $$, dinner entrées $$–$$$$.

Kona Inn Restaurant (808-329-4455), Kona Inn Shopping Village, 75-5744 Ali‘i Dr. Open for lunch and dinner daily. Sunsets are pure perfection from this breezy (but touristy) waterfront location, outfitted with luxurious koa woods, Oriental carpets, and comfy chairs. Come for drinks and appetizers and you might just stay for dependable local fish dishes; mahimahi, ahi, and daily specials are the way to go—even though the menu is more far-reaching. You’ll also find steaks, sandwiches, and Caesar salads. Their Café Grill has lighter and less expensive specials worth checking out—with the same views. Children’s menu. Lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$$.

Keauhou

Kenichi Pacific (808-322-6400), Keauhou Shopping Center, 78-6381 Ali‘i Dr. Open for dinner daily. Tucked away in a shopping center, Kenichi Pacific is worth seeking out. Very worth seeking out. When you feel like rubbing shoulders with locals who are living it up with great sushi and signature rolls in upscale surroundings, come here. If for some strange reason you don’t want sushi, their macadamia crusted lamb is highly recommended. Then again, you could nosh on a wide range of appetizers and call it a day, too. Save room for the decidedly decadent warm molten chocolate cake. If you’re heading north, they also have a location at the Shops at Mauna Lani (see “The Kohala Coast”). Dinner entrées $$$–$$$$.

Kai (808-930-4900, sheratonkeauhou.com), Sheraton Keauhou Bay Resort & Spa, 78-128 Ehukai St. Open for breakfast and dinner daily. The best thing about this restaurant is its big picture windows that are open to the ocean’s edge. You can often watch manta rays feeding here at night. On my last visit, the Pacific Rim and Hawaiian fusion cuisine was okay, and it matched the service. For sure, try the seared ahi appetizer. The family-friendly breakfast buffets are a good bet, as is the all-you-can-eat seafood buffet (Sat.) and crab night (Wed.). Breakfast $–$$, dinner entrées and buffets $$$–$$$$.

South of Kailua-Kona

Ke‘ei Café (808-322-9992), near MM 113, Hwy. 11, Kealakekua. Open for lunch weekdays, dinner Tues.–Sat. This lovely bistro is attractive with hardwood floors, local artwork, and coastal views. And it doesn’t ignore its mission of providing creative food at moderate prices. The eclectic menu of Asian-, Latin-, and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine utilizes fresh ingredients for its chowder, curries, tofu fajitas, and salads. You can almost taste the earth. Traditional bread pudding made by the Pilgrims doesn’t hold a candle to this, suffused with bananas and pineapple. The café is about 15 minutes south of Kailua-Kona. Be prepared to wait—both to be seated and once you’re seated. Lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$–$$$.

Kailua-Kona

EATING OUT

Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill (808-327-0209; jackiereys.com), 75-5995 Kuakini Hwy. Open 11–5 weekdays and dinner nightly. Slightly out of the way and up the hill from downtown Kailua-Kona, this neighborhood grill (and sports bar and family-friendly eatery) is particularly known for its lunches. Think fancy sandwiches, burgers, poke, and excellent fries. At happy hour, think drinks and pupus. Dinners are more extensive; think wasabi-crusted ahi (with organic greens), short ribs, and seafood. On Friday and Saturday evenings they have live music. They offer a lot of bang for the buck. Children’s menu. Lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $$.

Island Lava Java (808-327-2161), 75-5799 Ali‘i Dr. Open 6 AM–10 PM daily. Not only does this fashionable little place have unobstructed ocean views across the street, but it now serves lunch and dinner. Yahoo! From the day it changed hands in 2000, it was famous for its cinnamon rolls and “pull-aparts” (muffins, scones, breads, and croissants, all baked on-site). Now they serve sandwiches and burgers for lunch and get more ambitious at dinnertime with butternut squash lasagna, blackened fish salad, and fish tacos (all three of which are recommended). There are a few tables inside and outside, and counter service only inside. Breakfast and lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $–$$$.

Big Island Grill (808-326-1153), 75-5702 Ku‘akini Hwy. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon.–

Sat. Not known outside local circles (but certainly well known within them!), this grill’s slogan is “Well worth the wait.” (It’s true—on both accounts—you will wait, and it is worth it.) Folks are dazzled by and appreciative of large portions of good mainland dishes that have been influenced by island ingredients and concepts. (Try the roast pork plate or the coconut shrimp salad.) You won’t break the bank eating here, either. Breakfast and lunch $–$$, dinner entrées $–$$$.

Fujimamas (808-327-2125, fujimamas.com), 75-5719 Ali‘i Dr. Open for lunch and dinner daily (except no lunch on Sun.). New in 2006, this place dishes up meals “’ ohana-style” (family-style) in a variety of dining areas, each with its own Asian motif. Choose from sushi rolls at the bar or something more formal in a private tatami room. Everything seems to taste better, including stir-fry dishes, when it’s served on the bamboo-encircled patio. Dishes $–$$; children’s bento meals available.

Pancho & Lefty’s (808-326-2171), 75-5719 Ali‘i Dr. Open 8 AM–9 PM daily. Sometimes you’re just in the mood for a good (strong) margarita and nachos, even if you’re in the middle of the Pacific on a once-in-a-lifetime trip. Look for it across the street from the Kona Marketplace, where you’ll also find its competitor, Tacos El Unico (808-326-4033), whose margaritas aren’t as strong but whose food is just as good and cheaper. Dishes $–$$.

Mixx Bistro (808-329-7334), 75-5626 Kuakini Hwy., King Kamehameha Mall. Open noon ’til late weekdays, 4:30–late weekends. Perfect for a light lunch, afternoon drinks, or a late night bite, Mixx mixes it up with an extensive selection of wines by the glass and beer. Along with appropriate cheese platters to complement the wines, they also have a healthy selection of appetizers (pupus) and live nightly entertainment. Light dishes $–$$.

Kona Natural Foods (808-329-2296), Crossroads Center, 75-1027 Henry St. Open daily. When your body craves an infusion of organic greens and a healthy sandwich instead of a typical plate lunch, this shop will set you on a corrective path. They also have vitamins and such.

Keauhou

Peaberry & Galette (808-322-6020), 78-6831 Ali‘i Dr., Keauhou Shopping Center. Open daily. Next to the cinema, this little crêperie sports a charming retro-modern look and serves savory and sweet crêpes, sandwiches, salads, and rich homemade desserts. And espresso, of course. Dishes $–$$.

South of Kailua-Kona

The Coffee Shack (808-328-9555; coffeeshack.com), near MM 108, Hwy. 11, Captain Cook. Open 7:30–3 daily. Pull over here right now; you needn’t wait for a coffee attack. Between a breezy lanai overlooking tropical gardens and stunning bay views, this casual haunt makes a great pit stop for eggs Benedict, gargantuan sandwiches made with homemade breads (and salmon or roast beef), and pizzas. Dishes $, pizza $–$$.

Manago Hotel (808-323-2642), near MM 110, Hwy. 11, Captain Cook. Open for all three meals Tues.–Sun. About 20 minutes south of Kailua-Kona, this renowned but rundown hotel is incredibly popular with locals. And if you want to feel like an insider, you’ll stop by. In return you’ll get long-lasting memories: hearty servings of pork chops (purported to be among the island’s best), T-bone steaks, and fried ono (or other island fish like opelu or akule) served with a friendly attitude at long Formica tables. Where else? Breakfast $, lunch and dinner $–$$.

Teshimas (808-322-9140), 79-7251 Mamalahoa Hwy., Honalo. Open for all three meals daily. About 9 miles south of Kaiula-Kona, this authentic Japanese restaurant is very local and very friendly. Folks make a beeline for sashimi, Teshima’s miso soup, sukiyaki, bento boxes, and shrimp tempura at very reasonable prices. Don’t pass it up. Dishes $–$$; no credit cards.

COFFEE

Starbucks has infiltrated Kailua-Kona, but you have lots of other local options that celebrate the famed Kona bean, especially up in Holualoa. Most cafés serve light meals, so they are interspersed above. For a primer on Kona coffee, see Coffee…Did You Know? (p. 371).

Holualoa Kona Coffee Company (808-322-9937; konalea.com), 77-6261 Mamalahoa Hwy., MM 2, Holualoa. Open 8–3 weekdays. Before or after you indulge in a savory brew, take a free tour (8–3 weekdays) of this organic coffee bean farm.

Holuakoa Café & Restaurant (808-322-2233), 76-5900 Mamalahoa Hwy., Holualoa. Café open 6:30–3 weekdays, 8–3 weekends; restaurant open for lunch and dinner Tues.–Sat. and brunch on weekends. Using rarefied Kona Blue Sky beans from the 400-acre Twigg-Smith coffee estate, this café brews one strong espresso. Although I didn’t get a chance to eat there, the new restaurant specializes in local and organic food. Lunch and brunch $–$$, dinner entrees $$$.

Kona Blue Sky Coffee Company (808-322-1700; konablueskycoffee.com), 76-973A Hualalai Rd., Holualoa. Open 9–4 Mon.–Sat. You can tour the farm where these beans are grown, harvested, dried, roasted, and ground—all by hand or with natural methods. It goes a long way in explaining the price.

Island Lava Java (808-327-2161), Ali‘i Sunset Market Plaza, Ali‘i Dr., Kailua-Kona. Open 6 AM–10 PM. When it’s time for a local jolt.

Entertainment

The Big Island isn’t exactly big-time quiet, but it almost is. The scene mostly consists of low-key live music and homegrown hula in hotel bars and lobbies that face a setting sun. The Kona Inn is particularly popular. Not so shabby, but maybe not what you had in mind? Only two towns might fit another bill, and Kailua-Kona is one. Consult with West Hawai‘i Today for up-to-the-minute information.

Kona Brewing Company & Brewpub (808-334-2739; konabrewingco.com), 75-5629 Ku‘akini Hwy., Kailua-Kona. Open 11–10 Sun.–Thurs., 11–11 Fri.–Sat. This enjoyable place, atmospheric with a koa bar and driftwood benches, features locally flavored brews like lilikoi’i wheat ale. Pair a pint with an organic pizza for a nice match. When in Rome…. You can also take a quick tour of the facilities before embibing and nibbling on pizzas and salads.

Huggo’s (808-329-1493), 75-5828 Kahakai St., Kailua-Kona. Open 11:30 AM–2 AM. For shoreline sunset cocktails.

MOVIES

The Makalapua Stadium Cinema (808-327-0444, 74-5469 Kamakaeha) and Keauhou 7 Cinemas (808-324-0172, 78-6831 Ali‘i Dr., in the Keauhou Shopping Center) make for a perfect escape from an already escapist holiday. Both are in Kailua-Kona.

Selective Shopping

In general, Ali‘i Drive in Kailua-Kona is chock-full of souvenirs and bursting with T-shirts galore. Head up to the village of Holualoa for great art galleries and independent coffee shops.

ART GALLERIES

Holualoa Gallery (808-322-8484; lovein.com), 76-5921 Mamalahoa Hwy., Holualoa. Open 10–5 Tues.–Sat. With inspired ceramics, jewelry, calabashes, glass, and sculpture, as well as block prints and other island-style works, this gallery is diverse and dazzling. Look for the lovely raku (Japanese pottery).

Studio 7 (808-324-1335), 76-5920 Mamalahoa Hwy., Holualoa. Open 11–5 Tues.–Sat. Ready your senses to be serenaded. This tranquil space occupies the heart of the gallery scene in town. Although both owners are artists, they also offer ceramics, wood objects, and sculptures by other creative types.

Kailua Village Artists Gallery (808-329-6653; kailuavillageartists.com), Kona Beach Hotel, 75-5660 Palani Rd., Kailua-Kona. Open 9:30–5:30 daily. This co-op features artists working in a variety of media; have a look around.

BOOKSTORES

Borders. See Crossroads Shopping Center under Shopping Areas.

CLOTHES

Kimura Lauhala Shop (808-324-0053), 77-996 Mamalahoa Hwy. at Hualalai Rd., Holualoa. Open Mon.–Sat. This teensy place offers every conceivable item that could be woven with pandanus fronds.

FARMER’S MARKETS

Kona Farmer’s Market, off Queen Ka‘ahumanu Hwy., Kailua-Kona. Open 8–2:30 Sat.–Sun. Follow the locals’ lead for produce and flowers to this unlikely industrial location.

Ali‘i Gardens Marketplace, 75-6129 Ali‘i Dr., Kailua-Kona. Open 9–5 Wed.–Sun. Upwards of 50 vendors sell fresh juices, local coffee, and crafts on this 5-acre plot.

Shopping Areas

Crossroads Shopping Center, 75-1000 Henry St. (Kuakini Hwy.), Kailua-Kona. Head here when you need a Borders bookstore and Safeway supermarket.

Coconut Grove Market Place (808-329-5300), Ali‘i Dr., Kailua-Kona. Open daily 9 AM–10 PM. Surrounding sandy volleyball courts, this warren of buildings has restaurants, a gallery, and a coffee shop or two.

Makalapua Center, Makalapua Ave., Kailua-Kona. Just north of town off Hwy. 19, this center is anchored by Macy’s and KMart.

Special Shops

The Grass Shack (808-323-2877), at the corner of Konawaena and Mamalahoa Hwy., Kealakekua. Open Mon–Sat. Since the 1970s, this little grass shack has been offering pricey Ni‘ihau shell leis, objects made with rare and unusual woods, or ‘ukuleles.

Kimura Store (808-322-3771), Mamalahoa Hwy., Kainaliu. Open Mon.–Sat. 9–5:30. Family owned for generations, this is the kind of general store you find only in Hawai‘i.