The Brisket Chronicles

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons butter, olive oil, or Brisket Butter, or as needed

4 slices barbecued brisket (each slice ¼ inch thick; about ½ pound total; see here)

1 baked or boiled russet (baking) potato, cut into ¼-inch dice (use whatever cooked potato you might have on hand)

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 flour or white corn tortillas (each 6 inches in diameter)

4 large eggs (preferably farm-fresh and organic)

1 cup warm refried beans, canned or homemade

1 cup Gangsta Salsa (recipe follows), or your favorite salsa

¼ cup thinly sliced scallion greens

2. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a skillet over medium-high heat. Warm the brisket slices, about 30 seconds per side. Transfer to a rimmed sheet pan and keep warm in the oven.

3. Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in the skillet. Add the potatoes and pan-fry, stirring with a spatula, until hot, browned, and crisp, 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the potatoes to the sheet pan with the brisket and keep warm.

4. Warm the tortillas in the skillet, 30 seconds per side. (Alternatively, warm the tortillas on your grill.) Transfer to the sheet pan with the brisket and potatoes and keep warm.

5. You’ll need at least 2 tablespoons of fat in the skillet to fry the eggs. If enough butter remains in the skillet, heat it over a medium-high flame; if not, add butter, oil, or brisket butter to equal 2 tablespoons. When the fat starts sizzling, crack in the eggs. Fry until cooked to taste, 2 to 3 minutes on one side if you like them sunny-side up, or 2 minutes per side for over easy.

6. Assemble the tacos: Lay a tortilla on a plate. Spread it with a quarter of the refried beans. Top with a quarter of the fried potatoes and a slice of brisket. Slide an egg on top. Spoon salsa on top and sprinkle with a quarter of the scallion greens. Assemble the remaining tacos the same way. Serve the tacos open-face, with any remaining salsa on the side.

This pyrotechnic salsa shows how Miguel Vidal blends Tex-Mex with Hill Country barbecue. He cooks the veggies in the smoker—long enough to infuse them with mesquite smoke, but short enough to keep their vegetal crunch. You can certainly smoke the vegetables ahead of time at a previous smoke or grill session.

INGREDIENTS

2 large tomatoes, stemmed and cut in half widthwise

2 large tomatillos, husked, rinsed, and cut in half widthwise (or more tomatoes)

½ small onion, peeled and halved

3 serrano chiles, stemmed and cut in half lengthwise (for milder salsa, remove the seeds)

1 habanero chile, stemmed and cut in half lengthwise (for milder salsa, remove the seeds)

¼ cup freshly squeezed lime juice, or to taste

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

Coarse sea salt

1. If using a smoker for this recipe, set it up following the manufacturer’s instructions and heat to 275°F. Alternatively, set up your grill for indirect grilling (see here) and heat to medium-low.

2. Arrange the tomatoes, tomatillos, onion, and chiles, cut sides up, in foil pans. Place in the smoker or away from the heat on the grill. If using a grill, add 1 cup unsoaked wood chips or 2 wood chunks to the coals. Cover and smoke the veggies until they are just beginning to soften, 20 minutes. Keep some crispness—the vegetables should remain raw in the center. Let cool.

3. Cut the veggies into 1-inch cubes and place in a food processor. Puree as coarsely or smoothly as you desire. Work in the lime juice, cilantro, and salt to taste. The salsa should be highly seasoned.

4. Transfer the salsa to a serving dish or bowl. Serve at once, or cover and refrigerate—it will keep for several days.

YOU’LL ALSO NEED: A 10-inch cast-iron skillet or other heavy-bottomed skillet; another skillet (medium-size; if you’re frying the eggs)

WHAT ELSE: This recipe calls for barbecued brisket, but equally delectable hash can be made from homemade corned beef (the classic—see here) or pastrami ( Old School, or New School).

I don’t know about you, but I believe in the afterlife. The afterlife of brisket, that is—the resurrection of this rich smoky barbecued beef in salads, stuffings, and stir-fries. Above all, I believe in leftover brisket for breakfast—especially in hash. Named for the French verb hacher (“to chop”—the same etymological root that gives us our word hatchet), hash requires little more than a sharp knife and a cast-iron skillet. This one derives its firepower from poblano peppers and sriracha. Hash is infinitely customizable: Swap the poblanos for bell peppers, for example, or the potatoes for yams or yucca. If you’re used to the usual corned beef hash, the intense smoky flavor of this brisket hash will come as a revelation.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons butter, Brisket Butter, or extra virgin olive oil

2 or 3 shallots or 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped (to equal ¾ cup)

1 poblano, stemmed, seeded, and diced

2 jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and diced (for spicier hash, leave the seeds in)

2 cups coarsely or finely diced barbecued brisket (see here)

2 cups coarsely or finely diced cooked potatoes or other root vegetables

2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil, for frying eggs (optional)

2 to 4 large eggs (preferably farm-fresh and organic; optional)

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon sriracha or your favorite hot sauce

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives, parsley, cilantro, and/or other fresh herb, for garnish

1. Heat the butter in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, poblano, and jalapeños and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until browned, 3 minutes.

2. Stir in the brisket and potatoes and continue cooking until the potatoes are browned, 3 to 5 minutes more.

3. Meanwhile, if you want to serve the hash with eggs (and I think you should!), melt the butter or heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When the fat starts sizzling, crack in the eggs. Fry until cooked to taste, flipping once with a spatula, 2 minutes per side for yolks that are still a little runny (that’s how I like them).

4. Stir the Worcestershire sauce and sriracha into the hash and cook for 1 minute. Correct the seasoning, adding salt and pepper to taste. The hash should be highly seasoned. Serve the hash right from the skillet, sliding the fried eggs on top. Sprinkle with chopped chives and dig in.

Corned Beef or Pastrami Hash: Prepare as described above, substituting corned beef or pastrami for the brisket. Use onions instead of shallots and red or yellow bell peppers (or a mix) instead of poblanos. Replace the sriracha with Louisiana-style hot sauce such as Crystal or Tabasco.

WHAT ELSE: Inspired by the classic Western breakfast of steak and eggs, this breakfast sandwich was conceived with barbecued brisket in mind. But there’s no reason you couldn’t make an equally compelling breakfast sandwich with homemade pastrami, smoked meat, or corned beef. I’ve made the avocado optional—you don’t want to go to too much trouble for breakfast—but it definitely keeps the bottom of the bun from getting soggy and adds another texture and layer of flavor.

Brisket for breakfast? It may sound excessive in some circles, but here in Raichlendia, it’s just how we start our day. As always, it’s the attention to detail that differentiates an unforgettable breakfast sandwich from a merely good one. Brioche rolls (and, yes, you should butter and griddle them). Organic farm eggs. And sun-warmed garden tomatoes that have never seen the inside of a refrigerator. The arugula may sound elitist—it’s not. Its peppery bite beats the usual iceberg lettuce hollow.

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons butter, at room temperature, or extra virgin olive oil

2 brioche rolls or hamburger buns, sliced

3 tablespoons Chipotle Mayonnaise (recipe follows) or regular mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s or Best Foods)

1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced (optional)

4 slices barbecued brisket (each slice ¼ inch thick; about ½ pound total; see here)

3 ounces thinly sliced pepper Jack cheese

2 large eggs (preferably farm-fresh and organic)

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 luscious ripe red tomato, stemmed and thinly sliced

1½ cups arugula leaves, washed and dried

2. Spread half the butter on the cut sides of the brioche rolls. Toast the rolls, cut sides down, in the skillet until lightly toasted, 2 minutes.

3. Transfer the rolls to a cutting board. Slather the cut sides of the rolls with Chipotle Mayonnaise and arrange the avocado slices, if using, on the bottoms.

4. Heat the remaining butter in the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the brisket slices and fry, turning once, until crusty and hot, 2 minutes per side. Arrange the hot brisket on the rolls. Lay the cheese slices on top.

5. Crack the eggs into the skillet and fry in the remaining butter and brisket drippings until cooked to taste, 2 minutes per side for yolks the way I like them: still a little runny. Season the eggs with salt and pepper as they cook. Using a spatula, slide the eggs atop the cheese. (The hot brisket and eggs will melt the cheese.)

6. Top the eggs with the sliced tomato and arugula. Replace the tops of the rolls. Get ready to bite into a breakfast sandwich that makes all others pale in comparison.

Chipotles add a slow smoky burn to creamy mayonnaise. You’ll want to use canned chipotles so you can add some of the adobo, the aromatic can juices.

INGREDIENTS

2 to 3 canned chipotles in adobo, with 2 tablespoons of the sauce

1½ cups mayonnaise (preferably Hellmann’s or Best Foods)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1 tablespoon fresh lime juice

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Mince the chipotles with a chef’s knife and place in a mixing bowl. Whisk in the chipotle sauce, mayonnaise, cilantro, lime juice, and cumin. Chipotle Mayonnaise will keep, in a sealed container in the refrigerator, for at least 3 days.

HEAT SOURCE: Stove or grill side burner for the eggs; grill or broiler for the tortilla chips

Machaca con huevos, shredded dried beef with scrambled eggs, is a beloved breakfast in northern Mexico. It’s a high-voltage twist on American steak and eggs made with a sort of Mexican beef jerky called machaca. It’s about to get a lot more interesting thanks to the addition of—you guessed it—barbecued brisket. I like to serve brisket and eggs with crisp, grilled scallion tortilla chips brushed with—you guessed it again—Brisket Butter. The latter isn’t traditional, but it sure is tasty.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons Brisket Butter or extra virgin olive oil

1 bunch scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced crosswise (set aside 3 tablespoons of the greens for the tortilla chips)

1 clove garlic, peeled and minced

2 jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped (for extra heat, leave the seeds in)

1 luscious ripe red tomato, stemmed, seeded, and diced

1 cup shredded or finely chopped barbecued brisket (see here)

8 large eggs (preferably farm-fresh and organic)

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For serving (any or all of the following)

½ cup sour cream or Mexican crema

1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and sliced

Crispy Grilled Scallion Tortilla Chips (optional; recipe follows)

1. Heat the Brisket Butter or oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the scallions, garlic, and jalapeños and cook over medium-high heat until lightly browned, 4 minutes. Stir in the tomato and cook until most of the juices are evaporated, 2 minutes. Stir in the brisket and cook for 1 minute.

2. Meanwhile, beat the eggs in a bowl with a fork or whisk until frothy. Beat in the cilantro and some salt and pepper. Stir the eggs into the brisket mixture and cook, stirring with a rubber spatula, over medium-high heat until gently scrambled, 1 to 2 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.

3. Serve the brisket and eggs with sour cream and avocado on top, and Crispy Grilled Scallion Tortilla Chips for dipping.

Sure, you could serve Brisket and Eggs with packaged tortilla chips. But that wouldn’t be The Brisket Chronicles way. I like to brush fresh tortillas with Brisket Butter, crust them with scallion greens, and sizzle them on the grill. The texture and flavor are off the charts.

INGREDIENTS

4 flour or white corn tortillas (each 6 inches in diameter)

2 tablespoons Brisket Butter or melted butter

3 tablespoons thinly sliced scallion greens

Vegetable oil, for oiling the grill grate

1. Set up your grill for direct grilling (see here) and heat it to medium-high. Alternatively, preheat your broiler to medium-high.

2. Brush the tortillas on both sides with Brisket Butter or melted butter. Sprinkle both sides with scallion greens, pressing them in with a fork.

3. Brush or scrape the grill grate clean and oil it well. Arrange the scallion-crusted tortillas on the grate and grill until sizzling and browned on both sides, about 1 minute per side. (Watch carefully, as they can burn easily.) Alternatively, broil the tortillas until sizzling and browned, 1 to 2 minutes per side.

4. Transfer the tortillas to a cutting board. Cut each into 6 wedges. The chips will crisp as they cool. The chips can be made up to several hours ahead.

YOU’LL ALSO NEED: A stand mixer with a paddle or a food processor; a rimmed sheet pan; parchment paper; a rolling pin

WHAT ELSE: These scones are easy to make if you have leftover brisket on hand, and incredibly tasty, but leave yourself enough time to chill the dough. Corned beef or pastrami scones? Just saying.

State Road is one of our favorite restaurants on Martha’s Vineyard—the sort of place that had a wood-burning grill before it was fashionable for restaurants to have wood-burning grills. (And a chef-owner—Jackson Kenworth—who knows how to use it.) Where the corned beef for the hash is house-cured and where the eggs Benedict ride on smoked brisket instead of the usual Canadian bacon. So I was only half surprised to find brisket scones on the brunch menu recently. “I came up with these scones while thinking about how much I missed the brisket in Texas,” says pastry chef Lindsey McCloskey. “The mix of local woods from the island gives our brisket a smoke flavor you can only find here on Martha’s Vineyard.” Amen.

1. Place the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and butter in a stand mixer fitted with a paddle. Mix on low speed until the butter pieces are pea-size. Alternatively, place these ingredients in a food processor fitted with a chopping blade. Run the processor in short bursts to cut in the butter until it’s in pea-size pieces. Mix in the brisket and onion. (If using a food processor, run it in short bursts to mix.)

2. Add the beaten eggs and buttermilk and mix or process until the dough just holds together. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for 1 hour.

3. Lightly dust a work surface with flour. Line a rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and lay it on the prepared work surface. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, tap and then roll the dough into an 8-by-12-inch rectangle that is 1 inch thick. Cut the rectangle in half lengthwise, then cut each half in fourths widthwise. Cut each of the resulting smaller rectangles in half on the diagonal (from corner to opposite corner) to obtain 16 triangles. Alternatively, roll the dough into a large circle 1 inch thick and cut into 16 wedges. Arrange the scones on the prepared sheet pan and chill for 30 minutes.

5. Make the glaze: Combine the egg yolk with the cream in a small bowl and beat with a fork.

6. Remove the scones from the refrigerator and brush the tops with the glaze. Bake until lightly browned and cooked through, 20 to 30 minutes, rotating the sheet pan halfway through so the scones bake evenly.