t A Chegança by Luiz Ventura (1994) in Restauradores station
Decorative tiles were first brought to Portugal by the Moors in the 8th century, but became an art form as the uniquely Portuguese azulejos under Manuel I in the 16th century. Today, ceramic designs adorn the walls of everything from historic palaces to modern-day metro stations.
t A Chegança by Luiz Ventura (1994) in Restauradores station
Many churches are decorated with azulejos depicting biblical scenes. In Lisbon’s São Vicente da Fora, 38 tiles illustrate the fables of La Fontaine. Meanwhile, Igreja Matriz de São Laurenço in Almancil is covered in tiles. Porto’s Igreja do Carmo, however, is the chuch you’re most likely to recognize – it’s featured on many Instagram feeds.
As a sign of wealth, is it any wonder that azulejos adorn former royal homes? The Palácio Nacional de Sintra’s Sala dos Árabes is decorated with green geometric tiles, while the flamboyant Sala dos Brasões houses 18th-century blue Delft examples. In Lisbon, the Palácio Fronteira is home to both 17th-century Delft and Portuguese tiles.
People generally just pass through train stations, but some of Portugal’s transport hubs are destinations in themselves. Porto’s São Bento station is home to some 20,000 azulejos, rural Pinhão’s station depicts the port industry and some of Lisbon’s most fantastic contemporary tiles adorn its metro stops.
For dining with a difference, head to one of Lisbon’s tiled restaurants. Cervejaria Trindade occupies several rooms lined with beautiful tiles, while Casa de Alentejo (Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58; www.casadoalentejo.com.pt) houses Moorish-style tiles and 20th-century panels.
Housed in the beautiful former Madre de Deus convent, Lisbon’s Museu Nacional do Azulejo provides an overview of the history behind this unique artform, from the Moors to the 20th century. The musem also gives visitors the chance to see some of the country’s most stunning examples of azulejos.
Portugal’s Azulejos
Metro do Oriente
Maritime-themed azulejos are found here.
Jardim Zoológico
Contemporary tiles on an animal theme adorn the walls.
Alvalade
Don’t miss Maria Keil’s colourful panels of women and monkeys.
Campo Grande
Home to some unusual 18th-century figures by Eduardo Nery.
Cais do Sodre
A huge illustration of Alice in Wonderland’s white rabbit hangs here.