t Panorama of the sun rising over the village of Aljezur
D7 @ n 25 de Abril 62; 282 998 229
t Panorama of the sun rising over the village of Aljezur
The small village of Aljezur is overlooked by a 10th-century Moorish castle, which is reached via the old quarter. Although in ruins, a cistern and towers remain, and there are splendid views towards the Serra de Monchique.
Aljezur’s Igreja Matriz, much rebuilt after the earthquake of 1755, has a fine Neo-Classical altarpiece. Dating from about 1809, it was probably executed in the workshop of José da Costa of Faro.
From Aljezur, the wild and deserted beaches of the Algarve’s west coast are easily explored, although a car is essential. Open to the strong currents of the Atlantic, Praia de Arrifana 10 km (6 miles) southwest, and Praia de Monte Clérigo, 8 km (5 miles) northwest, are sandy, sweeping beaches backed by cliffs. On the Alentejo border, Praia de Odeceixe has a stunning beach, and the sheltered cove is popular with surfers.
Experience Algarve
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eat Ocean Overseen by German chef Hans Neuner, Ocean boasts two Michelin stars thanks to the chef’s creative cooking of local ingredients. The menu features pigeon, octopus and the catch of the day. E7 ⌂ Hotel Vila Vita Parc, Rua Anneliese Pohl, Alporchinhos, Porches ¢ Wed–Sun L, Mon & Tue ∑ restauranteocean.com ¡¡¡ Rei das Praias A sublime beachside restaurant built on stilts above a charming cove. The daily specials feature fresh fish and seafood. E7 ⌂ Praia da Caneiros, Ferragudo ∑ restaurantedaspraias.com |
E7 @ Monchique n Monchique; 282 911 189
Providing shelter from the north, this volcanic mountain range helps to ensure the mild southern climate of the Algarve. The highest point is Fóia at 902 m (2,959 ft). This, however, is less pleasantly wooded than Picota, which at 773 m (2,536 ft) is the second-highest peak. An impressive 4-km (2.5-mile) walk to this peak from Monchique passes among chestnut trees and fields of wild flowers. A spectacular panorama sweeps down to the Ponta de Sagres and there are stunning views of the rest of the range.
The 30-km (19-mile) drive along the N267 from Nave, just below Monchique, to Aljezur in the west, leads through a beautiful part of the Serra. The landscape is a mixture of woods and moorland. The cork oak trees that grow here are home to the tiny nuthatch and lesser-spotted woodpecker.
There is a wonderful variety of vegetation to enjoy in the Serra, including mimosa, rhododendron, chestnut, pine and cork oak. The fast-growing eucalyptus trees, however, have given cause for concern. This highly flammable species is one of the reasons for the serious fires that break out all too often in the Serra.
E7 @ n Largo de São Sebastião; 282 911 189
The small market town of Monchique is primarily famous for its altitude, 458 m (1,500 ft), and consequently spectacular views. It is also known for its wooden handicrafts, particularly the folding chairs, which date back to Roman times.
The 16th-century Igreja Matriz, on the cobbled Rua da Igreja behind the main square, has an impressive Manueline doorway whose knotted columns end in unusual pinnacles. Above the town is the ruined monastery of Nossa Senhora do Desterro. This Franciscan house, founded in 1632 by Dom Pero da Silva, is now only a shell but it is worth visiting for the stunning views across to the peak of Picota.
A delightful spa 6 km (4 miles) south of Monchique, Caldas de Monchique is set in the foothills of the Serra in wooded surroundings. The hot, curative waters have attracted the ailing since Roman times, and even though João II died soon after taking them in 1495, their reputation has remained undiminished. In the summer, people come to be treated for skin, digestive and rheumatic complaints. As well as the spring water, the bars here offer local firewater, medronho.
The shady main square has a large, attractive handicraft centre and there are some pretty walks in the woods.
The number of days of sunshine per year enjoyed in the Algarve.
D7 @ n Sagres; 282 624 873
t The pretty main square in the spa town of Monchique
The grand name of “The Bishop’s Town” today refers to a peaceful village, rather remote in feel. It acquired its name in the 17th century when it was donated to the bishop of Faro. The town’s parish church, Nossa Senhora da Conceição, has a delightful interior decorated with 18th- century azulejos from the floor up to the painted ceiling, and an altarpiece dating from 1715.
The beaches in the area are remote and unspoiled. Praia do Castelejo, 5 km (3 miles) to the west, is accessible by a dirt road that winds up from the village. The intrepid can turn off this track for the 6-km (4-mile) journey to Torre de Aspa, an obelisk at 156 m (512 ft) marking the spot for spectacular views over the ocean. The road is quite rough, so it’s best to walk the last 2 km (1 mile).
Hidden Gem
From Monchique, it is an easy drive to the top of Fóia, the highest point of the Algarve. From here, there are wonderful vistas over the coast and across the hills of the Serra de Monchique.
D7 @ n Rua Comandante Matoso; 282 624 873
The small town of Sagres has little to offer except a picturesque harbour, but it is a good base from which to explore the superb beaches and isolated peninsula west of the town. Henry the Navigator built a fortress on this windswept promontory and, according to tradition, a school of navigation and a shipyard. From here he realized his dream “to see what lay beyond the Canaries and Cape Bojador… and attempt the discovery of things hidden from men”. From 1419 to 1460, he poured his energy and the revenues of the Order of Christ, of which he was master, into building caravels and sending his fear-stricken sailors into unknown waters.
In 1434, Gil Eanes of Lagos was the first sailor to round the dreaded Cape Bojador, in the region of Western Sahara. With this feat, the west coast of Africa was opened up for exploration and Portugal’s empire expanded.
Little remains of Prince Henry’s original fortress: the walls that can be seen today are part of a 17th-century fort. Still visible is the giant pebble wind compass, the Rosa dos Ventos, 43 m (141 ft) in diameter, said to have been used by Henry. The simple chapel of Nossa Senhora da Graça was also built by him. The whole site, looking across to Cabo de São Vicente and out towards the open Atlantic, is exhilarating and atmospheric.
The town is within easy reach of superb beaches, such as family-friendly Martinhal and Telheiro, which is perfect for surfing and bodyboarding.
t Interior of Nossa Senhora da Graça in Sagres
D7 @ To Sagres then taxi n Sagres; 282 624 873
t Promontory of Cabo de São Vicente jutting into the Atlantic Ocean
In the Middle Ages, this windblown cape at the extreme southwest of Europe was believed to be the end of the world. Today, with its 60-m- (200-ft-) tall cliffs, it still presents an awe-inspiring aspect. The ocean waves have created long, sandy beaches and carved deep caves.
Since the 15th century, Cabo de São Vicente has been an important reference point for shipping, and its present lighthouse has a 95-km (60-mile) range, said to be the most powerful in Europe. For even longer it has had religious associations, and its name arises from the legend that the body of St Vincent was washed ashore here in the 4th century.
Since 1988, the coast from Sines in the north to Burgau in the east has been made a nature reserve, providing important nesting grounds for Bonelli’s eagle, kestrel, white stork, heron and numerous other bird species. There is also a colony of sea otters.
Experience Algarve
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stay Hotel Eva With rooms facing the marina, this hotel has a rooftop bar and pool. E7 ⌂ Avenida da República 1, Faro ∑ hotel-eva-faro.h-rez.com ¡¡ ¡ Martinhal Beach Resort Family-friendly resort, with sports facilities, facing a lovely beach. D7 ⌂ Quinta do Martinhal, Martinhal ∑ martinhal.com ¡¡¡ Pousada Convento da Graça Sumptuously converted 16th-century convent with pool and bar. F7 ⌂ Rua D Paio Peres Correia, Tavira ∑ pousadas.pt ¡¡¡ |
D7 £ @ n Praça Gil Eanes; 282 763 031
Set on a large bay, Lagos is an attractive, bustling town. In the 8th century it was conquered by the Arabs, who left behind fortifications. A well-preserved section and archway can be seen near Rua do Castelo dos Governadores, where there is a monument to the navigator Gil Eanes.
The discoveries of the 15th century, pioneered by Henry the Navigator, whose statue gazes scowlingly out to sea, turned Lagos into an important naval centre. At the same time a most deplorable period of history began, with the first slaves brought back from the Sahara in 1441 by Henry’s explorer Nuno Tristão. The site of the first slave market in Europe is marked by a plaque under the arcades on Rua da Senhora da Graça.
Extensive damage was caused by the earthquake of 1755, so today the centre consists primarily of pretty 18th- and 19th-century buildings. The citizens of Lagos continue to make their living from fishing, which helps the town to retain a character independent of the tourist trade. The smart marina on the east side of town is the first safe place for anchorage on the south coast for boats coming in from the Atlantic.
On the seafront stands the 17th-century fortress which defended the entrance to the harbour. Its imposing ramparts afford far-reaching views over the town and the bay.
The 18th-century church of Santo António is an Algarvian jewel. The lower section of the walls is covered in blue-and-white azulejos, the rest in carved, gilded and painted woodwork, an inspirational and riotous example of Baroque carving. Cherubs, beasts, flowers and scenes of hunting and fishing surround eight panel paintings of miracles performed by St Antony. Near the altar is the grave of Hugh Beatty, an Irish colonel who commanded the Lagos regiment during the 17th-century wars with Spain. He died here in 1709 and his motto Non vi sed arte (“Not with force but with skill”) adorns the tomb. The church forms part of the neighbouring museum Museu Municipal Dr José Formosinho.
Although he didn't sail himself, Henry (1394–1460), the third son of João I, laid the foundations for Portugal’s maritime expansion that were later built upon by João II and solidified by Manuel I. As master of the rich Order of Christ and governor of the Algarve, Henry was able to finance expeditions to the African coast. By the time he died he had a monopoly on all trade south of Cape Bojador.
t Statue of Henry the Navigator in Lagos town square
⌂ Rua General Alberto Silveira § 282 762 301 # 10am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
"Lagos" means "lakes" in Portuguese and the city earns its water-based name.
E7 £ @ n Teatro Municipal de Portimão, Largo 1° de Dezembro; 282 402 487
t A life-size exhibit at the Museu de Portimão demonstrating the life of a local worker
The Algarve’s second-largest city, Portimão has plenty of character and a long history as a port. The Romans settled here, attracted by the natural harbour on the estuary of the Rio Arade.
Portimão’s northern outskirts consist of commercial and residential areas. Further into the municipality is the historic 18th-century town centre, which has plenty of excellent shopping options, as well as a large, bustling market. The picturesque riverfront is nearby.
The centre lies around the pedestrianized Rua Vasco da Gama, with shops specializing in leather goods. Along Rua Diogo Tomé, the church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição occupies a low hill. Rebuilt after being damaged in the earthquake of 1755, its 14th-century origins are still visible in the portico, with its carved capitals. Inside, there are 17th- and 18th-century azulejo panels. The waterfront is lively and many of the restaurants serve the fresh catch of the day. Portimão has a long fishing tradition that developed between the 19th and 20th centuries with the advent of the canning industry. The award-winning Museu de Portimão, housed in a former canning factory, is located on the southern end of the esplanade. The museum pays homage to the local people, and the town that for centuries has lived exclusively off the sea.
Just 3 km (2 miles) south lies Portimão’s touristic neighbour, Praia da Rocha, a series of sandy coves among protruding red and ochre rocks. At its east end is the 16th-century Fortaleza de Santa Catarina, with superb beach views, and below is Portimão Marina.
For a thrilling experience, head to the Autódromo Internacional do Algarve racing circuit located 8 km (6 miles) north of the city centre.
⌂ Rua Dom Carlos, Zona Ribeirinha # Aug: 3–11pm Wed–Sun (from 7:30pm Tue); Sep–Jul: 10am–6pm Wed–Sun (from 2:30pm Tue) ∑ museudeportimao.pt
E7 £ @ n Rua Dr Afonso Costa 51; 282 457 540
This pretty fishing town of white houses is popular with holiday-makers, so visit during the low season. It was a Roman port, and later the Moorish town of Al-Bur. By the 16th century it was again a prosperous town, but it was damaged in the earthquake of 1755. The town was rebuilt with stone from the Moorish castle, so little of that remains.
At the top of the town the 16th-century church, Divino Salvador, has a Manueline portal carved with foliage, lions and dragons. The outermost arch is an octopus tentacle.
t Beautiful little church of Divino Salvador in the centre of Alvor
E7 £ @ n Parque das Merendas; 282 098 927
Silves’ commanding position made it the ideal fortified settlement. The Romans built a castle here, but it was under the Arabs that the city flourished, becoming the Moorish capital, Xelb. In the mid-12th century the Arab geographer Idrisi praised its beauty and its “delicious, magnificent” figs. Silves was renowned as a centre of culture in Moorish Al-Gharb until the Knights of Santiago took the city in 1242.
Today, the red walls of the castle stand out against the skyline. The nearby Casa da Cultura Islâmica e Mediterrânica hosts local exhibitions and events.
The red sandstone Castelo de Silves dates back mainly to Moorish times, though it has done duty as a Christian fortress and a jail. It was the site of the Palace of the Verandahs, abode of Al-Mu’tamid from 1053 when he was ruler of Seville and Wali of Al-Gharb.
There are superb views of the town and countryside from the massive, polygonal ramparts. Inside, there are gardens and the impressive vaulted Moorish Cisterna da Moura Encantada (Cistern of the Enchanted Moorish Girl).
Built on the site of a mosque, the Sé dates from the 13th century. In the chancel, light falls from lovely double windows with stained-glass borders on a jasper statue of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, believed to date from the 14th century.
Opposite the Sé, the 16th-century Misericórdia church has a Manueline side door and a beautiful Renaissance altarpiece.
Downhill from the cathedral, the Museu Arqueológico was opened in 1990. Its exhibits include Stone and Iron Age tools, sculpted Roman capitals, surgical instruments from the 5th–7th centuries and items of 18th-century ceramics. The museum is built around a large Arab well-cistern that was uncovered in 1980. The staircase built into the structure descends 15 m (49 ft) to the bottom of the well.
One kilometre (half a mile) east of Silves is the Cruz de Portugal, an ornate 16th-century granite cross, carved with the Crucifixion. This may have been given to the city by Manuel I, when João II’s body was transferred from Silves to Batalha.
t Statues in an ornamental pool in Praça al Mutamid, Silves
' ⌂ Largo da República § 282 440 800 # Tue–Fri, Sat pm for groups only
" ⌂ Rua do Castelo § 282 440 837 # Jul–Sep: 9am–7pm; Oct–Jun: 9am–5:30pm daily
" ⌂ Largo da Sé # 9am–5pm Mon–Fri ¢ Public hols
" ⌂ Rua das Portas de Loulé 14 § 282 440 838 # 10am–6pm daily
Experience Algarve
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eat Barquina What this local eatery lacks in glamour, it makes up for with its fantastic seafood dishes. F7 ⌂ Rua José Pires Padinha 142, Tavira § 281 322 843 ¢ Wed ¡ ¡¡ Bon Bon Although it occupies an unassuming location, chef Rui Silvestre delivers delicately crafted cuisine at this ambitious Michelin-starred restaurant. E7 ⌂ Urb Cabeco de Pias, Carvoeiro ¢ Tue & Wed; Mon, Thu & Fri L ∑ bonbon.pt ¡¡¡ Dois Irmãos Founded in the 1920s, this attractive restaurant serves wonderful fish dishes and has its own garden. E7 ⌂ Praça Ferreira de Almeida 15, Faro ∑ restaurantedoisirmaos.com ¡¡¡ |
Sancho I (1185–1211) styled himself as king of Silves from 1189 to 1191.
E7 £ @ n Rua 5 de Outubro; 289 585 279
t Rocky coastline at Praia de São Rafael, just outside Albufeira, at sunrise
Once a charming fishing town Albufeira is now the tourist capital of the Algarve.
Al-Buhar (The Castle on the Sea) was a prosperous town under the Moors, profiting from trade with North Africa. The Museu Arqueológico houses a captivating collection of Stone Age, Roman and Moorish artifacts, with the Islamic-era silo as its high-light. Rua 5 de Outubro leads through a tunnel to the beach, east of which is the Praia dos Barcos where the fishermen ply their trade. From Praia de São Rafael, 2 km (1 mile) west of Albufeira, to Praia da Oura due east, the area is punctuated by small sandy coves set between eroded ochre rocks.
⌂ Praca da Republica 1 § 289 599 508 # 9:30am–12:30pm, 1:30–5:30pm Tue, Sat & Sun, 9:30am–5:30pm Wed–Fri (Jul & Aug: 2–10pm Thu & Fri)
E7 @ n Praça do Mar, Quarteira; 289 389 209
The coast between Faro and Lagos has effectively become a strip of villa complexes and high-rise hotels. Vilamoura is a prime example of this kind of development. Its 16 sq kms (6 sq miles) encompass four golf courses, tennis courts, a riding school, fishing and shooting facilities, and sports complexes. There is even a landing strip. Its many hotels and apartment blocks are still on the rise, and the already well-established complex is still under construction.
The focal point is the large marina, which bristles with powerboats and is fronted by restaurants, cafés and shops. It makes a diverting excursion, attracting many Portuguese visitors, including Lisbon’s jet set. Due east is the crowded Praia da Marina. The nearby Roman ruins of Cerro da Vila, dating from the 1st century AD, incude a bath complex and a house with mosaics depicting fish.
" ⌂ Avenida Cerro da Vila § 289 312 153 # May–Oct: 10am–1pm, 4–9pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Apr: 9:30am–12:30pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun
E7 £ @ n Rua de Vale; 289 400 860
t Azulejos on the interior of Igreja Matriz de São Lourenço
East of the undistinguished town of Almancil lies one of the Algarve’s gems, the 18th-century Igreja Matriz de São Lourenço. Commissioned by local inhabitants in gratitude to St Laurence, who answered their desperate prayers for water, the church’s interior is a masterpiece of decoration in azulejo panels.
The copious blue-and-white tiles were probably designed by master craftsmen in Lisbon and shipped down. They cover the cupola, the walls of the chancel, nave and nave vault, to stunning effect. The wall panels depict episodes from the life of St Laurence; on one side of the altar the saint is shown healing two blind men, and on the other, giving money to the poor. The nave arches show the saint conversing with Pope Sixtus II; arguing for his Christian belief with the Roman Emperor Valerian; and refusing to give up his faith. The story culminates in his martyrdom. In the last panel on the right, in which the saint is placed on a gridiron to be burned, an angel comforts him. The nave vault depicts the Coronation of St Laurence, and the cupola has decorative, trompe-l’oeil effects of exceptional quality. The last tiles were put in place in 1730. The altarpiece, dating from around 1735, was the work of Manuel Martins and was gilded by leading local painters.
t Almancil
E7 £ @ n Largo Sebastião Martins Mestre 8A; 289 713 936
Olhão has been involved in fishing since the Middle Ages, and today is one of the largest fishing ports and tuna- and sardine- canning centres in the Algarve. In 1808 the village was elevated to the status of town after 17 of its fishermen crossed the Atlantic Ocean to Rio de Janeiro, without charts, to bring the exiled King João VI the news that Napoleon’s troops had been forced out of the country.
Olhão’s square, whitewashed houses with their flat roof terraces and box-like chimneys are reminiscent of Moorish architecture. The best view is from the top of the bell tower of the parish church Nossa Senhora do Rosário, on Praça da Restauração, built between 1681 and 1698 with donations from the local fishermen. These men were extremely devout because of the dangers they faced at sea, particularly in summertime when North African pirates often sailed off the coast The custodian lets visitors through the locked door leading from the nave. At the rear of the church is the external chapel of Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos, where women pray for their men’s safety in stormy weather.
The narrow, pedestrianized streets of the old town wind down from here to the waterfront, the scene of one of the region’s most lively and picturesque markets. The noisy, covered fish market sells the morning’s catch, while on Saturdays, outside stalls line the quay, with local farmers selling an array of seasonal produce, including fruit, nuts, honey and live chickens.
At the eastern end of the quay, beyond the market, boats take you out to the islands of Armona (15 min), Culatra (30 min) and Farol (45 min). These flat, narrow bars of sand provide shelter to the town, and excellent sandy beaches for visitors, particularly on the ocean side. The islands are in the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa.
Centro de Educaçâo Ambiental de Marim, about 3 km (2 miles) east of Olhão, is an environmental education centre. Its 60 ha (148 acres) of dune and pinewoods are home to a restored farmhouse, a tidal mill and a centre for injured birds, as well as exhibitions and aquariums.
t The 17th-century parish church in Olhão, with its bell tower
"'- ⌂ Quelfes § 289 700 210 # 9am–noon, 2–5pm Mon–Fri ¢ 1 Jan, 25 Dec
E7 £ @ n Avenida 25 de Abril; 289 463 900
t The pink domed building that houses Loulé’s indoor market
Loulé is an attractive market town and thriving craft centre. Its Moorish origins are still visible in the bell tower of the church of São Clemente. The castle, on the north side of town, is also Moorish in origin, rebuilt in the 13th century. Remnants of the walls behind the castle afford fine views over Loulé.
The heart of the town lies immediately south of Praça da República and encompasses the busy market. On Saturdays, the area is particularly lively when gypsies run a simultaneous outdoor market. From Rua 9 de Abril to the Igreja Matriz you can watch handicraft workers carving wood, weaving hats, making lace, decorating horse tackle and painting pottery and tiles.
The 13th-century church of São Clemente, on Largo da Silva, was badly damaged in three earthquakes but its triple nave, defined by Gothic arches, has been conserved. There are two beautiful side chapels dating from the early 16th century. The Capela de Nossa Senhora da Consolação is decorated from floor to vault with superb blue-and-white azulejo panels, while the Capela de São Brás has a Manueline arch and a blue-and-gold Baroque altarpiece.
Another religious building of note is the chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição, close to Praça da República. Here, the Baroque altarpiece (1745) is complemented by scenes in the ubiquitous blue-and-white azulejos.
Picture Perfect
Departing from Faro or Olhão, boat trips on the Ria Formosa offer plenty of opportunities to snap photos of local wildlife. The vessels follow the marshy waterways beside the picturesque islands.
E7 n Centro de Educaçâo Ambiental de Marim, Quelfes @ East of Olhâo on N125 g From Faro, Olhão, Tavira # 8am–8pm daily
Stretching from Praia de Faro to Cacela Velha, this nature reserve follows 60 km (37 miles) of coastline. It was created in 1987 to protect the ecosystem of the area, which was under threat from building, sand extraction and pollution, all by-products of the massive rise in tourism. The lagoon area of marshes, saltpans, islets and channels is sheltered from the open sea by a chain of barrier islands – actually sand dunes. Inlets between the islands allow the tide to ebb and flow into the lagoon.
These waters are rich in shellfish, such as oysters, cockles and clams: bred here, they make up 80 per cent of the nation’s mollusc exports. The fish life and warm climate attract many wildfowl and waders; snakes and chameleons also live here. Apart from fish and shellfish farming and salt-panning, all other human activities that might encroach on the park’s ecosystem are strictly controlled or forbidden.
t A wooden boardwalk in the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa
Experience Algarve
Purple Gallinule
A rarity, the gallinule is the symbol of the park.
Cattle Egret
These birds feed on insects and flies off the backs of cattle.
Red-Crested Pochard
A brightly coloured duck originally from Central Europe.
Purple Heron
This slender bird has a darker plumage than the more common grey heron.
Kentish Plover
You’ll find this tiny white and brown bird on the shoreline.
F7 £ @ n Praça da República 5; 281 322 511
t Pavement cafés
The pretty town of Tavira, full of historic churches and fine mansions with filigree balconies, lies along both sides of the Gilão river, linked by a bridge of Roman origin. This was part of the coastal Roman road between Castro Marim and Faro.
Tavira’s early ascendancy began with the Moors, who saw it as one of their most important settlements in the Algarve, along with Silves and Faro. It was conquered in 1242 by Dom Paio Peres Correia, who was outraged at the murder of seven of his knights by the Moors during a truce.
Tavira flourished until the 16th century, after which a slow decline set in, aggravated by a severe plague (1645–6) and the silting up of the harbour. The town now welcomes tourists, without compromising either its looks or its atmosphere.
The best view of the town is from the walls of the Moorish castle in the old Arab quarter on top of the hill. From here the distinctive four-sided roofs of the houses that line Rua da Liberdade are clearly visible. These pyramid-like roofs possibly evolved to allow the sudden torrential rain of the Algarve to run off easily. From the castle walls, the nearby clock tower of the church of Santa Maria do Castelo also acts as a landmark. The church itself occupies the site of what was once the biggest mosque in the Algarve. Its façade retains a Gothic doorway and windows, and its interior, restored in the 19th century, houses the tombs of Dom Paio Peres Correia and his seven knights. Santa Maria do Castelo and Igreja da Misericórdia are the only two of Tavira’s 21 churches to be open outside service hours. Below the castle is the 1569 convent of Nossa Senhora da Graça.
Renaissance architecture was pioneered in the town by André Pilarte and can be seen on the way up to the castle, in the Igreja da Misericórdia (1541–51), with its lovely doorway topped by saints Peter and Paul, and in the nearby Palácio da Galeria. The fascinating Núcleo Islâmico on Praça da República showcases Moorish artifacts, including an 11th-century figurative vase.
Seeking some beach time? The sandy, offshore Ilha de Tavira, provides excellent swimming. A popular resort in summer, you can reach it by ferry from Quatro Águas.
t The riverside town of Tavira
Experience Algarve
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drink Columbus Lounge Bar This fashionable bar, tucked into the arcades of a former hospital, has seats outside facing the pretty gardens. E7 ⌂ Praça Dom Francisco Gomes 13, Faro § 917 776 222 Rei das Praias Sit back and relax while sipping a cocktail at this beach restaurant on stilts, with views of a lovely cove. E7 ⌂ Praia da Caneiros, Ferragudo § 282 461 006 Tavira Lounge An arty lounge bar with a terrace offering fine views of Tavira’s picturesque river. F7 ⌂ Rua Gonçalo Velho 16–18, Tavira § 281 381 034 |
E7 £ @ n Rua Condes de Alte; 289 478 060
Perched on a hill, Alte is one of the prettiest villages of the Algarve. The approach from the east is the most picturesque, with sweeping views of rolling hills. The focus of this steep, white village is the 16th-century Nossa Senhora da Assunção, which has a Manueline doorway and baptismal fonts, and a fine gilded altarpiece celebrating the Assumption. The little chapel of São Sebastião boasts beautiful, rare 16th-century Sevillian azulejos.
A short walk from the church, and clearly marked, is the Alte, river overhung with trees, and a water source known as the Fonte Grande. This leafy setting is ideal for picnicking. On the steep slopes, about 700 m (half a mile) from the village, is a mill (now a restaurant) and a 5-m- (16-ft-) high waterfall, Queda do Vigário.
E7 @ n Faro; 289 803 604
t Grand Rococo-style stairs at the Pousada Palácio de Estoi
The quiet village of Estoi has two notable sights, separated by a short distance and about 1,800 years. Just off the main square is the Pousada Palácio de Estoi, an unashamedly pretty Rococo pastiche. The palace was the brainchild of a local nobleman, who died soon after work was begun in the mid-1840s. Another wealthy local later acquired the palace, and completed it in 1909. For the vast amount of money and energy he expended on his new home, he was made viscount of Estoi. The work was supervised by the architect Domingos da Silva Meira, whose interest in sculpture is evident everywhere. The palace underwent restoration of its interior, a feast of pastel and stucco, and is now a pousada, but the gardens can be visited daily by non-guests. Dotted with orange trees and palms, they continue the joyful Rococo spirit of the palace. The lower terrace features a blue-and-white tiled pavilion, inside which is a copy of Canova’s Three Graces. The walled terrace above, the Patamar da Casa do Presépio, has a large pavilion with stained-glass windows, fountains adorned with nymphs and tiled niches.
A walk downhill from the other end of the main square leads to the second major sight in Estoi: the Roman ruins of Milreu, a complex that dates from the 1st or 2nd century AD. The buildings probably began as a large farmhouse, which was converted in the 3rd century into a luxurious villa, built around a courtyard.
Well-preserved mosaics of fish and other marine creatures still adorn the walls and floor of the baths, located alongside the living quarters; however, most portable archaeological finds from this complex are now housed in the Museu Municipal in Faro. The importance of the villa is indicated by the remains of a temple overlooking the site.
⌂ N2-6 § 289 896 070 # May–Sep: 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 9:30am–1pm, 2–5pm Tue– Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 1 May, 7 Sep, 25 Dec
F7 £ @ n Avenida Marginal, Monte Gordo; 281 544 495
t Cyclist on a cobbled street in Vila Real de Santo António
Built to a plan by the Marquês de Pombal in 1774, Vila Real de Santo António is a little like a miniature version of Lisbon’s Baixa, rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake also under the auspices of Pombal. The symmetrical grid of fairly wide streets, and the equal-sized blocks with similar façades, all speak of Pombal’s practical and political ideals.
Today, the town is one of the most important fishing ports on the Algarve coast, as well as a border town, with its markets geared towards visiting Spaniards. The Igreja Matriz is famous for its stained-glass windows. The town’s centre now seems too grand for its size, all of which makes it an interesting place to drop in on.
F7 n Monte Gordo, Avenida Marginal; 281 544 495
This small coastal hamlet lies in the Parque Natural da Ria Formosa and grew primarily during the 17th century, when it formed part of the coastal defensive system. Perching on a cliff overlooking the sea, it is reached via a landscape of fields and olive trees.
Cacela Velha has remained untouched by mass tourism and retains a peaceful atmosphere. Charming blue-and-white fishermen’s houses cluster around the remains of an 18th-century fort (closed to the public) and a whitewashed 18th-century church.
The beach is sheltered by a long spit of sand, and fishing boats are dotted about. The Phoenicians and Moors used this protected site until it was taken over by the Knights of Santiago in 1240.
D7 @ n Rua de São Sebastião; 281 531 232
The Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans all made use of Castro Marim’s commanding location above the Rio Guadiana. It was the gateway to the Moorish Al-Gharb and for centuries it was a sanctuary for fugitives from the Inquisition. The castle above the town is of Moorish origin, the outlying walls a 13th-century addition, and sits beside the 17th-century Misericódia church.
The town was also a centre for salt production, and the surrounding salinas are now home to the Reserva Natural do Sapal. Extending for 21 sq km (8 sq miles) south and east of town, this is an area of saltpans and marshes with a large variety of bird species including flamingos, avocets and black-winged stilts, symbol of the reserve. Individuals don’t need to book, but group tours should book on 281 510 680.
The tipple of choice in the Algarve is a fruit brandy called Aguardente de Medronhos.
Insider Tip
Take the 20-minute ferry trip from Vila Real de Santo António, which crosses the Rio Guadiana, to Ayamonte in Spain for lunch. Remember to change your watch – Spain is one hour ahead of Portugal.
F7 @ n Rua 1° de Maio; 281 546 179
The tiny, gem-like, unspoilt village of Alcoutim lies 15 km (9 miles) from the border with the Alentejo, and on the natural border with Spain, the Rio Guadiana. The drive there along the N122-2, a rough, winding road which sometimes runs alongside the Guadiana, provides stunning views of the countryside and across the river to Sanlúcar in Spain.
The size of Alcoutim belies its history. As a strategic location and river port, it was seized on by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and, of course, the Moors, who stayed until the reconquest in 1240. Here, in 1371, on flower-decked boats midway between Alcoutim and its Spanish counterpart, Sanlúcar de Guadiana, King Fernando I of Portugal signed the peace of Alcoutim with Enrique II of Castile. By the late 17th century, when its political importance had waned, the town had acquired a new reputation – for smuggling tobacco and snuff from Spain.
Alcoutim today is a town of cobbled streets, small squares and a paved promenade along the riverfront. A few cafés and restaurants overlook the river, making them ideal spots from which to watch boats floating past. The nearby church originates from the 16th century, but has been rebuilt. Over the porch are the arms of the marquises of Vila Real and counts of Alcoutim. The walls of the 14th-century castle give an excellent view over the small village and its idyllic setting. The castle houses a small archaeological museum exhibiting a collection of artifacts from the Iron Age.
Alcoutim’s most unique visitor attraction is an exhilarating cross-border zip line, set over the river that divides Spain and Portugal.
t Inside the castle housing the Archaeological Museum of Alcoutim
Experience Algarve
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shop Forum Algarve True to its name, Forum is set around a central square with fountains. One of the region’s largest shopping centres, it has around 100 stores, including major brands, as well as a large hypermarket. Open late every day. E7 ⌂ EN125, Faro ∑ forumalgarve.net Mercado Municipal Olhão’s municipal market is the best in the region. It is set in two buildings – one for fresh fish, the other for fruit and vegetables. The market closes at 2pm on weekdays and 3pm on Saturdays. E7 ⌂ Avenida 5 de Outubro, Olhão ¢ Sun |