t The castle at Marvão, set impressively among granite mountains
F4 @ From Portalegre n Rua Guilherme Gomes Fernandes 22, Portalegre; 245 307 445
The diverse geology and capricious climate of this remote mountain range, which could be on the Mediterranean rather than the Atlantic Ocean, encourage a fascinating range of flora and fauna. In 1989, 320 sq km (120 sq miles) of the Serra were designated a Nature Park, as classified by the EUROPARC Federation. Red deer, wild boar and the cat-like genet live among the sweet chestnut trees and holm oaks, and streams attract otters and amphibians, such as the Iberian midwife toad. Look out, too, for griffon vultures and Bonelli’s eagles soaring overhead, as well as bats from one of Europe’s largest colonies.
The Serra’s apparent emptiness is deceptive: megaliths suggest that it was settled in prehistoric times, and rock paintings survive in the Serra de Cavaleiros and Serra de Louções. Below Marvão is the Roman town of Ammaia, and the Roman network of roads still winds among the trim white villages, offering grand views.
From Portalegre, the road climbs for 15 km (9 miles) to the Pico de São Mamede at 1,025 m (3,363 ft). A minor road leads south to Alegrete, a fortified village crowned by its ruined 14th-century castle.
F4 £ @ n Largo da Silveirinha; 245 909 131
t The castle at Marvão, set impressively among granite mountains
This serene medieval hamlet is dramatically set at 862 m (2,828 ft) on a spectacular escarpment facing Spain. Its 13th-century walls and 17th-century buttresses blend seamlessly into the granite of the mountains, making it an impregnable stronghold. The Romans, who called the outcrop Herminius Minor, were followed by the Moors (the name may have come from Marvan, a Moorish leader) whom the Christians evicted with difficulty only in 1166.
The walls completely enclose the little collection of whitewashed houses, a pousada and the 15th-century Igreja Matriz. Rua do Espírito Santo leads past the former governor’s house (now a bank) with its 17th-century iron balcony, and a Baroque fountain, up towards the castle.
Built by King Dinis in about 1299, the castle dominates the village. Its walls enclose two cisterns and a keep. The castle offers spectacular views south and west towards the Serra de São Mamede and east to the Spanish frontier.
The Museu Municipal, in the former church of Santa Maria, retains the main altar, and has an exhibition of traditional remedies and local archaeological finds from Palaeolithic to Roman times.
" ⌂ Largo de Santa Maria § 245 909 132 # Tue–Sun
Insider Tip
Head to the little village of Portagem, below Marvão, and cool off in the Praia Fluvial de Portagem, which is a shallow, but very refreshing river beach.
F4 £ @ n Praça Dom Pedro V; 245 908 227
t Fonte da Vila, a 16th-century stone fountain located in the Jewish Quarter of Castelo de Vide
Sprawled out on a lush green slope of the Serra de São Mamede, the pretty spa town of Castelo de Vide, enjoyed by the Romans, has worn well. It is fringed by modern development but the lower town, around Praça Dom Pedro V, retains its Baroque church of Santa Maria, the 18th-century town hall and pillory, and handsome mansions from the same era. In the Largo Frederico Laranjo is one of several sources of the town’s curative waters: the Fonte da Vila, a carved stone fountain with a pillared canopy. Just above is the maze-like Judiaria, where small white houses sprout vivid pots of geraniums. Its cobbled alleys are lined with fine Gothic doorways and conceal a 13th-century synagogue housing a small museum. The town’s oldest chapel, dating from the same time, Salvador do Mundo on the Estrada de Circunvalação, has a much admired depiction of the Holy Family’s flight into Egypt by an unknown 18th-century artist.
In the upper town, the tiny Nossa Senhora da Alegria offers a feast of 17th-century floral tiles. It stands within the walls of the castle that gave the town its name. This was rebuilt in 1310 by King Dinis, who negotiated here to marry Isabel of Aragon. Inside the castle are two museums, the Megalith Interpretation Centre and the Military Architecture and History Museum.
F4 £ @ n Mosteiro de Santa Maria de Flor da Rosa, inside the pousada; 245 997 341
Modest houses under outsize chimneys give no hint of Crato’s past eminence. Part of a gift from Sancho II to the powerful crusading Order of Hospitallers, Crato was the Order’s headquarters by 1350. Its prestige was such that Manuel I and João III were both married here.
In 1662, the town’s fortunes changed as invading Spanish forces sacked and burned the town, which never recovered. The Hospitallers’ castle remains, in ruins, and in Praça do Município the 15th-century Varanda do Grão-Prior marks the entrance to what was the Grand Prior’s residence.
Rua de Santa Maria leads, via an avenue of orange trees, to the Igreja Matriz, much altered since its 13th-century origins. In the chancel, 18th-century azulejos depict fishing, hunting and travelling scenes.
Experience Alentejo
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Stay Pousada de Santa Maria This cosy pousada makes good use of three former townhouses. Its restaurant offers jaw-dropping views. F4 ⌂ Rua 24 de Janeiro 7, Marvão ∑ pousadas.pt ¡¡ ¡ Pousada Convento Beja A chance to stay in a former 13th-century convent, with a restaurant, pool and tennis courts. E6 ⌂ Largo D Nuno Álvares Pereira, Beja ∑ pousadas.pt ¡¡ ¡ Pousada de Santa Rainha Isabel Set inside Estremoz’s historic castle, with valuted ceilings and a pool in its lovely gardens. F5 ⌂ Largo de Dom Dinis, Estremoz ∑ pousadas.pt ¡¡ ¡ |
Most Lusitano horses, Portugal’s national breed, are grey – but Alter Real are brown.
E4 @ n Palácio do Álamo; 245 610 004
The Romans founded Civitas Abelterium in 204 BC, but razed it under the Emperor Hadrian after the inhabitants were accused of disloyalty. The town was re-established in the 13th century.
Dominating the town centre is the five-towered Castelo de Alter do Chão with a Gothic portal built in 1359 by Pedro I. The flower-filled market square, the Largo Doze Melhores de Alter, is at its feet.
Alter is best known for the Coudelaria de Alter, which was founded in 1748 to breed the Alter Real. King José I (1750–77) yearned for a quality Portuguese-bred horse. He imported a stock of Andalusian mares, which were known for their prowess in war, to breed with local horses. From these Spanish pure-breds came the gracious and nimble Alter Real (“real” means royal). The stud prospered until the Napoleonic Wars (1807–15), when stealing and erratic breeding sent the Alter into decline. By 1930, the royal horse was nearly extinct, but years of dedication have ultimately revived this classic breed. The stud is set around attractive stables painted in the royal livery of white and ochre. Accommodation is available here.
Spanning the Seda river 12 km (7 miles) west along the N369 is the robust six-arched Ponte de Vila Formosa. This bridge carried the Roman road from Lisbon to Mérida in Spain.
" ⌂ Largo Barreto Caldeira # May–Sep: 10am–12:20pm, 3–7pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun
" ⌂ 3 km (2 miles) NW of town § 245 610 060 # Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, 24 & 25 Dec
F5 £ @ n Praça da República; 268 622 236
t Arches of the great aqueduct that once brought water to Elvas
Only 12 km (7 miles) from the Spanish border, Elvas feels like a frontier town. The old town’s fortifications are among the best preserved in Europe. Within the walls, a few architectural features and many of the street names are reminders that for 500 years the town was in Moorish hands.
Elvas was liberated from the Moors in 1230, but for another 600 years its fate was to swing between periodic attacks from Spain.
Romano-Moorish in origin, the Castelo de Elvas was rebuilt for Sancho II in 1226. It underwent further remodelling over the years, notably in the late 15th century under João II. The king’s coat of arms, incorporating a pelican, is seen above the entrance. Until the late 16th century the castle was the residence of Elvas’s mayors.
Until 1882, Nossa Senhora da Assunção was the cathedral of Elvas. Built in the early 16th century, its architect was Francisco de Arruda, who also designed the town’s impressive aqueduct. His Manueline south portal survives, but much of the church has been modified. The azulejos in the nave date from the early 17th century.
The engaging Museu Municipal de Fotografia João Carpinteiro is divided into the History of Photography Room, with numerous black-and-white images documenting life in the region, and the Collector’s Room, featuring rare and valuable vintage cameras and photographic equipment.
The Museu de Arte Contemporãnea de Elvas, the only national museum displaying exclusively contemporary Portuguese art, occupies a former hospital. The collection includes works by artists such as Adriana Molder, André Gomes and Joana Vasconcelos.
The plain exterior belies the wealth within the walls of Nossa Senhora dos Afitos. This little 16th-century church has fine marble columns and spectacular azulejos added in the 17th century. These line the walls and reach up into the cupola. Just behind the church is the archway of the Arab Porta da Alcáçova, a vestige of Elvas’s Moorish fortifications.
" ⌂ Parada do Castelo § 268 626 403 # 9:30am–1pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 & 14 Jan, Easter Sun, 1 May, 25 Dec
" ⌂ Largo Luís de Camões § 268 636 470 # 10am–1pm, 3–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ Easter Sun, 1 May, 25 Dec
" ⌂ Rua da Cadeia § 268 637 150 # Apr–Sep: 2–6pm Tue, 11am–6pm Wed–Sun; Oct–Mar: 1–5pm Tue, 10am–5pm Wed–Sun
Experience Alentejo
Using the principles of the French military architect, the Marquis de Vauban, a series of pentagonal bastions and freestanding angled ravelins form a multifaceted star, protecting the walls from every angle. What survives dates mostly from the 17th century, when the defences held off Spanish troops in the War of Restoration. Two surviving satellite forts indicate the strategic importance of Elvas: to the southeast lies the military fort and museum of Forte de Santa Luzia (1641–87), and 2 km (1 mile) north is the carefully restored 18th-century Forte de Graça.
Experience Alentejo
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eat A Cadeia Quinhentista It’s not often you can dine in a former 16th-century prison. This stylish conversion serves Alentejan specialities. F5 ⌂ Rua Rainha Santa Isabel, Estremoz § 268 323 400 ¡¡ ¡ Flor da Rosa This restaurant inside a former monastery has a menu that favours regional cuisine. F4 ⌂ Rua do Mosteiro da Flor da Rosa 10, Crato ∑ pousadas.pt ¡¡¡ |
F5 @ n Largo do Barata; 268 680 319
t Festival decorations in the streets of Campo Maior
According to legend, this peaceful town got its name when three peasant families settled in the campo maior, the “bigger field”. King Dinis fortified the town in 1310 and the monumental Porta da Vila was added in 1646.
In 1732, a gunpowder magazine, ignited by lightning, destroyed the citadel and killed 1,500 people. It seems likely that after a period, the victims provided the material for the morbid Capela dos Ossos, entirely faced in human bones. Dated 1766, it bears an inscription on mortality spelt out in collar bones.
The Museu do Café charts the history of coffee with exhibits such as rare antique grinders. A barista shows visitors how to make different kinds of coffees.
⌂ Largo Dr Regala 6 § 268 686 168 # Daily (if closed, speak to priest)
⌂ Delta Coffee, Herdade das Argamassas § 268 009 630 # 9am–1pm, 2:30–6:30pm Mon–Fri; 10am–1pm, 3–6pm Sat ¢ Public hols
F5 @ n Rossio Marquês de Pombal; 268 339 227
A key stronghold in the War of Restoration and then in the War of the Two Brothers, Estremoz looks out from its hilltop over groves of gnarled olive trees.
The medieval upper town, set within stout ramparts, is dominated by a 13th-century marble keep, rising to 27 m (89 ft). This is the Torre das Três Coroas, the Tower of the Three Crowns, recalling the kings (Sancho II, Afonso III and Dinis) in whose reigns it was built. The adjoining castle and palace complex, built for Dona Isabel, is now a pousada. The saintly Isabel, wife of King Dinis, died here in 1336 and the Capela da Rainha Santa dedicated to her is lined with azulejos recording her life.
Today the bustling weekly market in the Rossio, the main square in the lower town, is a reflection of local farming life. Across the square are the remains of King Dinis’s once-fine palace and the town’s Museu Municipal. The museum is over two floors and displays such things as archaeological finds, restored living rooms and a parade of bonecos, the charming pottery figurines for which Estremoz is famous.
⌂ Largo Dom Dinis (access via adjacent Design Gallery) # Ask at the Igreja de Santa Maria, on Largo Dom Dinis
" ⌂ Largo Dom Dinis § 268 339 219 # 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
Experience Alentejo
Portugal is the second-largest exporter of marble, and even Italy, the biggest producer, buys its quality stone. Around 90 per cent – over 500,000 tonnes a year – is quarried around Estremoz. The marble from Estremoz and nearby Borba and Vila Viçosa is white or pink, while the quarries at Viana do Alentejo yield green stone. Marble has been used for construction since Roman times and in towns such as Évora and Vila Viçosa, palaces and humble doorsteps alike gleam with the stone known as “white gold”.
F5 @ n Praça da República; 268 440 045
Surrounded by groves of cork oaks, the low-lying town of Alandroal, wrapped tidily around its castle ruins, was built by the Knights of Avis, who settled here from 1220. Little remains inside the castle, but a surviving inscription shows it was completed in 1298. The Igreja Matriz with- in its walls dates from the 16th century. The Misericórdia church near the castle walls contains beautiful azulejos reputed to be the work of Policarpo de Oliveira Bernardes (1695–1778).
Terena, 10 km (6 miles) south of Alandroal, is well known for its pottery. The 14th-century sanctuary of Nossa Senhora de Boa Nova has frescoes covering its walls and ceiling; dating from 1706, these depict saints and Portuguese kings. For access ask at the house opposite the church.
F5 @ n Praça da República; 266 909 100
As with much of the Alentejo, Redondo is known for its wines; however, this medieval town is also famous for its pottery. Roman-style water jugs, casserole dishes and bowls painted with humorous folk-art motifs are sold from the tiny white houses leading up to the ruins of the castle founded by King Dinis.
The Convento de São Paulo in the Serra de Ossa, 10 km (6 miles) north of Redondo, was built in 1376; Catherine of Bragança stayed here on her return home in 1692 after the death of her husband, King Charles II of England. It has now been converted into a luxury hotel, but retains its wonderful 16th- to 18th-century azulejos.
Manuel I welcomed Vasco da Gama at Estremoz castle, shortly before his voyage to India.
E5 @ n Rua Santa Maria; 268 959 227
The village is entered through a grand portal in the walls. Above the doorway of No 41, along Évoramonte’s single street, is a historic plaque. It records that here, on 26 May 1834, Dom Miguel ceded the throne, ending the conflict with his older brother.
The eye-catching Castelo de Évoramonte, its walls bound by bold stone “ropes”, largely replaced an earlier castle that fell in an earthquake in 1531. The 16th-century walls have been restored and an exhibition explains the castle’s history.
t Looking down on the medieval walled village of Évoramonte
" # 10am–1pm, 2–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ Last weekend of month
E5 @ n Largo Calouste Gulbenkian; 266 898 103
Montemor was fortified by the Romans and then by the Moors – the Arab warrior Al-Mansur is remembered in the name of the Almançor river. The town, regained from the Moors in the reign of Sancho I, was awarded its first charter in 1203. The castle, rebuilt in the late 13th century, is now a ruin crowning the hill.
Montemor’s 17th-century Igreja Matriz stands in Largo São João de Deus, named after the saint who was born nearby in 1495. The Order of Brothers Hospitallers that St John of God founded evolved from his care for the sick. He notably looked after foundlings and prisoners.
A former convent in the upper town now houses the Museu de Arqueologia, displaying local archaeological finds and antique farming tools.
t Montemor-o-Novo’s ruined castle, watching over the town below
" ⌂ Convento de São Domingos, Largo Professor Dr Banha de Andrade § 266 890 235 # 10am–1pm, 3–5pm Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
F5 @ n Rua Direita; 927 997 316
The tiny medieval walled town of Monsaraz perches above the Guadiana river on the frontier with Spain. Now a pretty backwater, it has known more turbulent times. Regained from the Moors in 1167 by the intrepid adventurer Geraldo Sem-Pavor (the Fearless), the town was handed over to the militant Knights Templar. It continued to suffer from Spanish attack, but in 1381 assault came from an unexpected quarter. Troops of the Earl of Cambridge, Portugal’s ally, were enraged by lack of pay and the annulment of the earl’s betrothal to Fernando I’s daughter, and unleashed their wrath on Monsaraz.
Principal access to the town is through the massive Porta da Vila. Rua Direita, the main street, leads up to the castle. Built by Afonso III and Dinis in the 13th century as part of the border defences, it was reinforced in the 17th century. The keep commands glorious views and at its foot is the garrison courtyard, which today serves on occasion as a bullring.
The 16th-century Igreja Matriz in Rua Direita is worth visiting for its tall gilded altars and painted pillars. The 17th- and 18th-century houses along here display coats of arms. In the Gothic Paços da Audiência, now the Museu de Arte Sacra, is a collection of vestments, religious books and sculpture. Its earlier role as a law court is reflected in an unusual secular fresco: O Bom e o Mau Juiz (The Good and Bad Judge).
Surrounded by vineyards, Reguengos de Monsaraz, 16 km (10 miles) west, lies at the heart of one of the region’s demarcated wine areas. São Pedro do Corval, 5 km (3 miles) east of Reguengos de Monsaraz, is one of Portugal’s greatest centres for pottery.
Near Monsaraz are a number of striking megaliths. The spectacular Menhir of Outeiro, standing 5.6 m (18 ft) tall, and the strangely inscribed Menhir of Belhôa are both signposted in Telheiro, just to the north of Monsaraz.
" ⌂ Largo Dom Nuno Álvares Pereira § 266 508 040 # Tue–Sun
Experience Alentejo
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drink Rota dos Vinhos do Alentejo The Alentejo has a reputation for producing some of the best wines in Portugal. In Évora, you can pick up details of the region’s wineries, or sample some of the wines in this tasting room. E5 ⌂ Praça Joaquim António de Aguiar 20–21, Évora ∑ vinhosdoalentejo.pt Esporão This vineyard dates back to the 13th century. The 700 hectares of vineyards are home to over 40 grape varieties. F5 ⌂ Apartado 31, Reguengos de Monsaraz ∑ esporao.com L’And Vineyards A wine resort that offers wine courses and has its own Michelin-starred restaurant E5 ⌂ Herdade das Valadas, Estrada Nacional 4, Montemor- o-Novo ∑ l-and.com |
great View
Climb to the top of the keep of Monsaraz’s castle for glorious views of olive groves in one direction and the stunning, sparkling waters of the Barragem de Alqueva in the other.
E5 @ n Praça do Município; 266 490 254
t Embroidered wool rugs hung up in the streets of Arraiolos
The foundation of Arraiolos is attributed either to Celts or perhaps to local tribes in about 300 BC. Its 14th-century castle seems overwhelmed by the town walls and looming 16th-century Igreja do Salvador. Typically, houses in Arraiolos are low and white, and are painted with a blue trim to ward off the devil.
The principal sight, however, is of women stitching their bright wool rugs in shadowy rooms behind the main street. Carpets have been woven in Arraiolos since the 13th century and decorate countless manor houses and palaces throughout Portugal. The craft may have begun with the Moors, but floral designs of the 18th century are thought to be the finest. As well as browsing the town’s carpet shops, you can visit the Centro Interpretativo do Tapete to discover more about this craft.
⌂ Praça do Município 19 # 10am–1pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun ∑ tapetedearraiolos.pt
The design of Arraiolos rugs was inspired by Persian carpets.
F6 @ n Rua dos Cavalos 19; 284 544 727
Serpa is a quiet agricultural town known for its cheese. Pleasing squares and streets of whitewashed houses are overlooked by a Moorish castle, rebuilt in the late 13th century. Serpa’s stout walls are topped by an arched aqueduct. Beside the monumental Porta de Beja is a nora, or Arab water wheel. Won from the Moors in 1232, Serpa successfully resisted foreign control until a brief Spanish occupation in 1707.
The Watch Museum, occupying 10 rooms of the 16th-century Convento do Mosteirinho, boasts a collection of more than 2,300 watches and clocks, all of them mechanical and some dating from the 17th century. The museum also has a small garden and a bar.
Serpa is just 35 km (22 miles) from the Spanish border. The Moors, and later Spain, fought for control of the region, which was finally ceded to Portugal in 1295. Continued disputes have left the legacy of a chain of watchtowers and a peppering of fortresses across these hills. One of the most remote, the deserted fort at Noudar, was built in 1346, but even in this isolated corner, evidence of pre-Roman habitation has been uncovered.
On the border at Barrancos, 76 km (47 miles) northeast of Serpa, an incomprehensible mix of Spanish and Portuguese is spoken. A speciality produced here is the dry-cured barrancos ham, which is made from the local black pigs.
t The great historic walls and arched aqueduct at Serpa
⌂ Convento do Mosteirinho # 2–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–12:30pm, 2–6pm Sat & Sun ∑ museudorelogio.com
E6 @ n Edificio das Piscinas Municipias; 284 437 410
Fine wines make Vidigueira a leading centre of wine production in the Alentejo region. Less well known is the fact that the explorer Vasco da Gama was the count of Vidigueira. His remains, now in the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, laid from 1539 to 1898 in the Convento do Carmo, now private property. A modern statue of the town’s most famous son stands in the flowery square named after him. The main features of this little town are a Misericórdia church dated 1620, and a clock tower from Vasco da Gama’s time.
One of Portugal’s most notable Roman sites, São Cucufate, named after a later monastery, lies 4 km (2.5 miles) west of Vidigueira. The vaulting belonged to a 4th-century villa, but excavations have revealed the baths of a 2nd-century house, whose wine presses, reservoir and temple indicate a sumptuous Roman residence.
Nestled against the slopes of the Serro do Mendro, the Cortes de Cima winery is close by and can be visited for tours and wine tasting (www.vinhodosalentejo.pt).
Most of Portugal’s strategic castles were ordered to be built by King Dinis (1279–1325).
E6 @ n Praça da República; 266 930 012
t traditional Moita–Viana do Alentejo Horse Pilgrimage
Viana do Alentejo’s castle, begun in 1313, was built to the design of King Dinis, the height of the outer wall exactly calculated to protect soldiers from attacking lancers. The unusual cylindrical towers show a Moorish influence and much of the later remodelling dates from João II, who held a cortes here in 1481–2.
Mirroring the castle walls are the crenellations and pinnacles of the adjacent 16th-century Igreja Matriz. The highly carved Manueline entrance to this fortified church leads into a majestic triple-naved interior.
Ten minutes’ walk east of the town stands the pilgrimage church of Nossa Senhora de Aires, rebuilt in the 1700s. The chancel’s golden canopy contrasts with pilgrims’ humble ex votos. Every April, hundreds of people participate in the Moita–Viana do Alentejo Horse Pilgrimage. Originally of a religious nature, the event today has become more of a festival.
The Moorish-style castle at Alvito, 10 km (6 miles) south of Viana, was built in 1482; it is now a pousada.
F6 @ n Inside the castle; 285 251 375
Legend mingles with history in this quiet town nestled among oak and olive trees. Salúquia, daughter of a Moorish governor, is said to have thrown herself from the castle tower on learning that her lover had been killed. From this tragedy, the town acquired its name – Moura, the Moorish girl. The town’s old Moorish quarter is a tangle of narrow streets.
Even after the Reconquest in the 12th century, Moura’s frontier position left it open to attack. A siege in 1657, during the War of Restoration, levelled much of it. The 13th- century castle survived, only to be blown up by the Spanish in 1707 – just a skeletal keep and wall remain.
The Lagar de Varas do Fojo, a former 19th-century olive press, is now home to a small museum. On display is a number of traditional wooden and stone-wheel presses, some dating from the 14th century.
⌂ Rua de São João de Deus § 285 253 978 # Tue–Sun
Experience Alentejo
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STAY Casa do Adro This charming family home in the centre of the old town has neatly decorated guest rooms, some with terraces or balconies. The owner plies her guests with homemade cakes and juices. D6 ⌂ Rua Diário de Notícias 10, Vila Nova de Milfontes ∑ casadoadro.com.pt ¡¡ ¡ Casa da Muralha Right by the town walls of historic Serpa, this wonderfully traditional guesthouse has its own pretty courtyard garden. F6 ⌂ Rua das Portas de Beja 43, Serpa ∑ www.casamuralha.net ¡¡¡ |
D6 @ n Parque da Quinta do Chafariz; 269 826 696
Santiago do Cacém’s Moorish castle was rebuilt in 1157 by the Templars. Its walls, which enclose the cemetery of the adjacent 13th-century Igreja Matriz, afford great views of the Serra de Grândola. The church is the starting point of the 350-km (217-mile) Rota Vicentina footpath to Cabo de São Vicente (www.rotavicentina.com). The main square is enhanced by elegant 18th-century mansions.
The Museu Municipal still retains some cells from its days as a Salazarist prison. Exhibits include Roman finds from nearby Miróbriga.
On a hill just to the east of Santiago do Cacém lies the site of the Roman city of Miróbriga. Excavations have uncovered a forum, two temples, thermal baths and a circus that had seating for 25,000 spectators.
⌂ Largo do Município § 269 827 375 # 10am–noon, 2–4:30pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm Sat ¢ Public hols
" ⌂ Signposted off N121 § 269 818 460 # 9am–12:30pm, 2–5:30pm Tue–Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
t Stone cross in front of the Igreja Matriz at Santiago do Cacém
E6 £ @ n Castle; 284 311 913
t Chapter room of the Convento de Nossa Senhora da Conceição at Beja
Capital of the Baixo (lower) Alentejo, Beja is a city of historic and social importance. It is also a major centre for the production of wines and the harvesting of olives and cork, which are grown on the Bejan plains.
The town became a regional capital under Julius Caesar, who called it Pax Julia after the peace made here with the Lusitanians. The Praça da República marks the site of the Roman forum. The Moors arrived in AD 711, giving the town its present name and a lively, poetic culture until they were forced out in 1162.
Beja has been the scene of struggles against oppressive regimes. In 1808, occupying French troops massacred inhabitants and sacked the city, and in 1962, during the Salazar regime, General Delgado led an unsuccessful uprising at Beja.
Beja’s old town, an area of narrow, often cobbled, streets, stretches from the castle keep southeast to the 13th-century convent of São Francisco, now a superb pousada. The former Convento de Nossa Senhora da Conceição (now a regional museum) is a remarkable blend of architectural styles, with a Gothic church portal, Manueline windows and a dazzling Baroque chapel.
Hidden Gem
The warm shallow waters of the Lagoa de Santo André, 15 km (9 miles) northwest of Santiago do Cacém, offer a safe place for swimming compared to the beaches on the Atlantic Ocean.
D6 @ g n Inside the castle; 269 632 237
t Medieval walls of Sines, the town where Vasco da Gama was born
The birthplace of Vasco da Gama is now a major industrial port and tanker terminal ringed with refinery pipelines. Once past this heavy industrial zone, visitors reach the old town with its popular sandy beach, but it is not always possible to escape the haze of pollution.
A landmark above the beach is the modest medieval castle, restored in the 16th century by King Manuel. It was here that Vasco da Gama, son of the alcaide-mor, or mayor, is reputed to have been born in 1469. A multimedia museum dedicated to the great navigator, the Casa Vasco da Gama, is housed in the castle keep. A statue of Vasco da Gama looks out over the bay.
Particulary appealing are two sea-blue lagoons, the Lagoa de Santo André and Lagoa de Melides nature reserves, set in a long stretch of sandy coast about 20 km (12 miles) north of Sines. Camping within the reserves is prohibited and the area is patrolled by park rangers.
t Vasco da Gama
⌂ Castelo de Sines § 269 632 237 # 10am–1pm, 2–5pm Tue–Sun (to 6pm in summer) ¢ Public hols
Lettres Portugaises, published in French in 1669, are celebrated for their lyric beauty. They are the poignant letters of a nun whose French lover left her: she was Mariana Alcoforado, born in Beja in 1640; he was the Comte de Saint-Léger, later Marquis de Chamilly, fighting in the Restoration Wars with Spain. The true authorship of the five letters may be in doubt, but the story of the lovelorn nun endures – Matisse even painted her imaginary portrait. Sentimental visitors to the Convento de Nossa Senhora da Conceição in Beja still sigh over “Mariana’s window”.
D6 @ n Rua António Mantas; 283 996 599
One of the loveliest places on Portugal’s west coast is found where the Mira river meets the sea. The popular resort of Vila Nova de Milfontes, which is located on the sleepy estuary, is delightfully low key and unassuming, but offers many places to stay. Its small castle overlooking the bay once had an important role defending the coast from pirates. In contrast to the quiet river are the pretty beaches with their crashing waves, a major summer attraction, especially with surfers.
Experience Alentejo
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EAT Adega 25 de Abril Bare brickwork and giant terracotta urns create a rustic backdrop for typical Alentejan fare, including giant pork steaks and amazing homemade desserts. E6 ⌂ Rua da Moeda 23, Beja § 284 325 960 ¢ Sun D & Mon ¡ ¡¡ Marquês This classy marisqueira is the place to sample the local fishermen’s catch. It’s a lovely tiled restaurant, with outdoor seats facing an attractive square. D6 ⌂ Largo Marquês de Pombal 10, Porto Covo ¢ Mon–Thu ∑ marquescervejaria.com ¡¡ ¡ |
F6 @ n Rua da Igreja 31; 286 610 109 # Jul–Sep: 9:30am–12:30pm, 2–6pm daily; Sep–Jun: 9am–12:30, 2–5:30pm daily
Pretty whitewashed Mértola is of historical interest as this small town is a vila museu, a museum site. It has various discoveries from different eras exhibited in núcleos, or areas where a lots of treasures from a particular period can be found. The tourist office has details of each núcleo.
Mértola dates back to the Phoenicians, who created a thriving inland port here, later enjoyed by the Romans and the Moors. Roman artifacts can be seen at the Museu de Mértola. The post-Roman period is on display in the Núcleo Visigótico and in an early Christian basilica whose ruins adjoin the Roman road to Beja. The influence bestowed by several centuries of Moorish domination is seen in the museum’s Núcleo Islâmico, which houses one of the country’s best collections of Portuguese Islamic art. The Igreja Matriz below the Moorish walls was formerly a mosque, with a five-nave layout, four horseshoe arches and a mihrab or prayer niche.
Overlooking the town is a ruined hilltop castle, with its keep of 1292. The Alcácova do Castelo, the excavated ruins of a Moorish village and earlier Roman cistern are within the grounds.
The copper mines at Minas de São Domingos, 16 km (10 miles) to the east, were the main employer in the area from 1858 to 1965, when the mine was exhausted. An English company ran the site under the harshest conditions, with miners’ families living in one windowless room. The village’s population is about 700, and the ghost-town atmosphere is relieved only by a reservoir and surrounding lush greenery.
t Mértola’s castle high above the town and Guadiana river
The area around Mértola is part of a nature reserve – the Parque Natural do Vale do Guadiana.
D7 @ n Rua da Escola; 283 961 144 ∑ sudoeste.meo.pt
A narrow strip of sheltered land divides the Alentejo plains from the Atlantic. Here lies the solitary village of Zambujeira do Mar, the whiteness of its gorgeous beach enhanced by the dark backdrop of high basalt cliffs. The annual Festival Meo Sudoeste, usually held in the second week in August at Herdade da Casa Branca, just outside the village, draws music lovers from all over Europe.
D6 ⌂ 10 km (6 miles) south of Sines
t Stunning sandy beach at Ilha do Pessegueiro, near Porto Covo
Small but bustling, Porto Covo is one of the most attractive resorts on the Alentejo coast. Its tiny main square is ringed by traditional whitewashed houses that are trimmed with blue. The coast to the north and west of the village is made up of a series of beaches, linked by a scenic road and clifftop paths. The coves soften the impact of the Atlantic waves, creating safe swimming areas.
South from Porto Covo it’s a short drive along a coastal track to the lovely beach at Ilha do Pessegueiro. The beach is protected by a little island of the same name, which has its own ruined sea fort. Fishing boats often offer trips around the island from Porto Covo.
Experience Alentejo
Groves of evergreen cork oak (Quercus suber) provide the Alentejo with a thriving industry. Portugal, the world’s largest cork producer, has almost 7,000 sq km (2,700 sq miles) under cultivation and turns out some 30 million corks a day. In rural areas, this versatile bark is fashioned into waterproof, heatproof food containers and these decorated boxes are a traditional craft of the Alentejo.