t Stately Largo do Toural in Guimarães, dating from the 18th century
E1 £ Avenida Dom João IV @ Alameda Mariano Felgueiras n Praça de Santiago; www.guimaraesturismo.com
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town of Guimarães is celebrated as the birthplace of the nation. When Afonso Henriques proclaimed himself king of Portugal in 1139, he chose Guimarães as his capital, and the distinctive outline of its proud castle appears on the Portuguese coat of arms.
The narrow streets of the medieval quarter are ideal for exploration on foot. The cobbled Rua de Santa Maria, lined with old townhouses embellished with ornate statuary, leads up from the main square, the Largo da Oliveira, past the Paço dos Duques to the Castelo de Guimarães. The castle’s huge square keep, encircled by eight crenellated towers, dominates the skyline. First built to deter attacks by Moors and Normans in the 10th century, Henry of Burgundy extended it two centuries later and, according to legend, it was the birthplace of Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king. The font where he was said to have been baptized is kept in the tiny Romanesque chapel of São Miguel, situated at the western end of the castle.
Constructed in the 15th century by Dom Afonso (first duke of Bragança), the Burgundian style of the Paço dos Duques reflects Dom Afonso’s taste acquired on his travels through Europe. The palace fell into disuse when the Bragança family moved to Vila Viçosa. In 1933, under Salazar’s dictatorship, it was renovated as an official presidential residence.
The Museu de Alberto Sampaio, housed in the Romanesque cloister and adjoining rooms of Nossa Senhora da Oliveira, displays some outstanding religious art, azulejos and ceramics, all from local churches. The star exhibits, donated to the church by João I, are his tunic worn at the battle of Aljubarrota in 1385, and a 14th-century silver altarpiece, comprising a triptych of the Visitation, Annunciation and Nativity, reportedly taken from the defeated Spanish king. The former monastery (Nossa Senhora da Oliveira) lies on the square’s east side. Founded by Afonso Henriques, the church was restored by João I in gratitude to Our Lady of the Olive Tree for his victory at Aljubarrota.
Named after the famous archaeologist, the Museu Martins Sarmento is housed in the Gothic cloister of the 14th-century convent of São Domingos. Specializing in finds from excavated sites, some dating from the Stone Age, the museum contains a wealth of archaeological, ethnological and numismatic exhibits. These include a rare pair of Lusitanian granite warriors.
Built in 1400 in Gothic style, the elegant church of São Francisco was reconstructed in the 18th century. The interior of the church boasts a chancel covered in magnificent 18th- century azulejos with scenes from the life of St Antony.
The former monastery of Santa Marinha da Costa is one of Portugal’s top pousadas. It stands 5 km (3 miles) southeast of Guimarães, and was founded in 1154. The gardens and chapel are open to the public.
t Stately Largo do Toural in Guimarães, dating from the 18th century
" ⌂ Rua Conde Dom Henrique § 253 412 273 # 10am–6pm daily ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
" ⌂ Rua Conde Dom Henrique § 253 412 273 # Daily ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
" ⌂ Rua Alfredo Guimarães § 253 423 910 # 10am–6pm Tue –Sun ¢ 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec
⌂ Largo da Oliveira § 253 416 144 # Daily
" ⌂ Rua Paio Galvão § 253 415 969 # Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
⌂ Largo de São Francisco § 253 439 850 # Tue–Sun
Insider Tip
Get tickets to see a football match at the Estádio Dom Afonso Henriques. Vitória de Guimarães are the home team and regularly take on Portugal’s top football clubs, including Benfica and Porto.
E1 ⌂ 15 km (9 miles) N of Guimarães, off N101 § 253 415 969 @ From Guimarães & Braga # Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm daily (to 5pm Oct–Mar)
t Ruins of the settlement at the archaeological site of Citânia de Briteiros
This Iron Age settlement is one of Portugal’s most impressive archaeological sites. It was excavated by Martins Sarmento (1833– 99), who devoted his life to the study of Iron Age sites. Here, you’ll find the foundations of 150 stone dwellings, a number of which have since been reconstructed.
From about the 4th century BC to the 4th century AD, the site was inhabited by Celtiberians, but was most probably under Roman rule from c 20 BC. A network of paths leads past paved streets, subterranean cisterns, sewers and water supply ducts. The Museu Martins Sarmento in Guimarães displays excavated artifacts.
E1 @ n Praça da República; 253 669 100
The Terras de Basto, once a region of refuge from Moorish invasion, lies east of Guimarães among mountains and forests. Statues known as bastos, believed to represent Celtic warriors, are found in various parts of the Terras de Basto, where they served as territorial markers. In the main town, Cabeceiras de Basto, the prime attraction is the Baroque Mosteiro de Refojos, with its splendid dome surrounded by statues of the Apostles, and topped by the Archangel Michael.
The town also owns the best of the basto statues, albeit with a French head; it was changed by troops as a joke during the Napoleonic Wars.
Experience Minho
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stay Casa do Outeiro Just northwest of Ponte de Lima, this 16th-century manor house was used as the headquarters for invading French forces during the Napoleonic Wars. It is packed full of historic charm. E1 ⌂ Outeiro, Arcozelo ∑ solaresdeportugal.pt ¡ ¡ ¡ |
Experience Minho
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drink Coconuts This buzzy café-bar has outdoor tables laid out on one of Guimarães’s loveliest squares. E1 ⌂ Largo da Oliveira 1, Guimarães § 253 047 207 ¢ Mon Livraria Mavy Originally a 19th-century bookshop, this space has been reincarnated as a fashionable café-bar and gallery. E1 ⌂ Rua Dom Diogo de Sousa 133, Braga § 936 667 046 Tasca das Fodinhas This old-time bar is decked out with lots of interesting knick-knacks, and is an ideal place to partake of vinho verde in ceramic bowls. E1 ⌂ Rua do Rosário 28, Ponte de Lima ∑ tascadasfodinhas.com |
D1 £ @ n Largo Dr José Novais 27; 253 811 882
A pleasant riverside town, Barcelos is most famous as the origin of the legendary cock that has become Portugal’s national symbol. It is also famed as the country’s leading ceramics and crafts market.
From its origins as a settlement in Roman times, the town of Barcelos developed into a flourishing agricultural centre and achieved political importance during the 15th century as the seat of the first duke of Bragança. The town’s star attraction is the Feira de Barcelos, a huge weekly market held on Campo da República. Anything from clothes to livestock can be bought here.
North of the square stands Nossa Senhora do Terço, the 18th-century church of a former Benedictine nunnery. In contrast to its plain exterior, the interior is beautifully decorated with panels of azulejos illustrating St Benedict’s life.
In the southwest corner of the square, a graceful cupola crowns the Igreja do Senhor da Cruz, built around 1705 on the site where two centuries earlier João Pires, a cobbler, had a miraculous vision of a cross etched into the ground. The Festa das Cruzes (Festival of Crosses), the town’s most spectacular event, is held at the beginning of May to celebrate the vision. During the celebrations thousands of flowers are laid on the streets to welcome a procession to the church, and events include displays of local folk costumes, dancing and fireworks.
Other historic attractions in the town cluster beside the 15th-century granite bridge that crosses over the Cávado river. The privately owned Solar dos Pinheiros is an attractive mansion on Rua Duques de Bragança, built in 1448. The sculpted figure plucking his beard on the south tower is known as Barbadão, the “bearded one”. So incensed was this Jew when his daughter bore a child to a gentile (King João I) that he vowed never to shave again, hence his nickname.
A rich Gothic pillory stands in front of the ruined Count’s Palace or Paço dos Condes, destroyed by the earthquake of 1755. The ruins provide an open-air setting for the Museu Arqueológico, which displays stone crosses, sculpted blazons, sarcophagi, and its famous exhibit, the Cruzeiro do Senhor do Galo, a cross paying tribute to the Barcelos cock. Next to the palace, the Igreja Matriz is Romanesque with Gothic influences, and dates from the 13th century. There are 18th-century azulejos inside as well as an impressive rose window.
t Igreja do Senhor da Cruz, overlooking the central square in Barcelos
⌂ Paços dos Condes § 253 809 600 # Daily
The Romans thought their memories would disappear if they crossed the Lima river.
E1 @ n Passeio 25 de Abril, Torre da Cadeia Velha; 258 240 208
This attractive riverside town takes its name from the ancient bridge over the Lima river. During the Middle Ages, the town played a pivotal role in the defence of the Minho against the Moors. The Roman bridge has only five of its original stone arches; the rest were rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries. The 15th-century church of Santo António houses the Museu dos Terceiros, a museum of sacred art. The Museu Rural has antique farming equipment, an authentic regional kitchen and gardens.
Ponte de Lima’s remaining medieval fortifications include the 15th-century Palácio dos Marqueses de Ponte de Lima.
The town’s market, dating from 1125, takes place every Monday and in mid-September crowds gather in the town to celebrate the Feiras Novas (New Fairs), a religious festival and folkloric market.
t Striking bronze statue dedicated to rural people in Ponte de Lima
⌂ Avenida 5 de Outubro § 258 240 220 # 10am–12:30pm, 2–6pm Tue–Sun
E1 @ n Rua Conselheiro Rocha Peixoto 9; 258 455 246
The town of Ponte da Barca derives its name from the graceful 15th-century bridge that replaced the boat once used to ferry pilgrims across the Lima river (ponte means bridge, and barca means boat). A stroll through the tranquil town centre leads past the pillory, graceful arcades and noble mansions from the 16th and 17th centuries. The Jardim dos Poetas (Poets’ Garden) and riverside parks are ideal for picnics, and there is a huge open-air market along the river.
Some of Portugal’s finest Romanesque carvings are on the 13th-century church at Bravães, 4 km (2 miles) west of Ponte da Barca. Sculpted monkeys, oxen and birds of prey decorate the columns of its main portal; the tympanum shows Christ in majesty flanked by two angels.
Ponte de Barca and Ponte de Lima are well known for their young sparkling white wine – vinho verde (green wine). You can buy it on tap, and it is still served in ceramic bowls in some bars. Perfect for hot summer days, vinho verde is fairly low in alcohol content (about 10 or 11 per cent). A weightier version is produced from the Alvarinho grape, which is cultivated around Monção. Vinho verde made from red grapes is also available.
D1 £ @ g n Praça Conselheiro Silva Torres; 258 921 952
t Rua Direita, one of Caminha’s attractive narrow streets
This ancient fortress town perches beside the Minho with fine views across the river to Spain. Occupied in Celtic and Roman times for its strategic position, Caminha developed into a major port until the diversion of its trade to Viana do Castelo in the 16th century. Today it is a small port, with a daily ferry connection to A Guarda in Spain.
On the main square is the 13th-century Torre do Relógio clock tower, once a gateway in the medieval defensive walls, and the 16th-century Paços do Concelho with its attractive loggia supported by pillars. Cross to the other side of the square, past the Renaissance fountain, to admire the seven Manueline windows on the upper storey of the Solar dos Pitas mansion (17th century).
The Rua Ricardo Joaquim de Sousa leads to the Gothic Igreja Matriz. Begun in the late 15th century, it has a superb inlaid ceiling of panels carved in Mudéjar (Moorish) style. Renaissance carvings above the side doors depict the Apostles, the Virgin, and several figures in daring poses, including one man with his posterior bared towards Spain.
Foz do Minho, the mouth of the Minho, lies 5 km (3 miles) southwest of Caminha. From here local fishermen will take groups (by prior arrange- ment) to the ruined island fortress of Forte da Ínsua.
The small walled town of Vila Nova de Cerveira, 12 km (7 miles) northeast of Caminha on the road to Valença, is ideal for a stroll. Either meander in narrow streets lined with 17th- and 18th-century mansions, or wander along the river.
E1 @ n Praça Deu la Deu, Casa do Curro; 251 649 013
A remote and charming town, Monção once formed part of the string of fortified border posts standing sentinel on the Minho river. Both the town’s main squares are lined with old houses, and decorated with chestnut trees, flowerbeds and mosaic paths.
The 13th-century Igreja Matriz in Rua João de Pinho boasts an outstanding Romanesque doorway of sculpted acanthus flowers. Inside, to the right of the transept is the cenotaph of the valiant Deu-la-Deu Martins, the town’s heroine. This female baker used the last of the town’s flour to bake rolls that she then flung at the Spanish during the seige of 1368. The troops soon retreated.
A colourful element in the June Corpus Christi festival is the Festa da Coca, when St George engages the dragon (coca) in comic ritual combat before giving the final blow.
The countryside around Monção produces excellent vinho verde; one of the best-known estates is the Palácio de Brejoeira, 5 km (3 miles) south of town.
About 5 km (3 miles) southeast of Monção, the monastery of São João de Longos Vales was built in Romanesque style in the 12th century. The exterior capitals and interior apse have fantastical sculpted figures, including serpents and monkeys. Visits are arranged by the tourist office in Monção.
Moncão’s coat of arms show a heroic baker who threw rolls at besieging Spanish troops in 1368.
D1 £ @ n Paiol do Campo de Marte; 251 823 329
Set in a commanding position on a hilltop overlooking the Minho, Valença is an attractive border town. Valença do Minho’s old quarter is set in the narrow confines of two double-walled forts, shaped like crowns and linked by a causeway. During the reign of Sancho I (1185– 1211), the town was named Contrasta, due to its position facing the Spanish town of Tui.
The forts date from the 17th and 18th centuries and were designed according to the principles of the French architect Vauban. There are fine views from the ramparts across the river into Galicia. Although the town was briefly captured by Napoleonic troops in 1807, its formidable bastions resisted subsequent shelling and attacks from across the river in 1809.
Lining the cobbled alleys of the old quarter are shops full of linen, wickerwork, pottery and handicrafts to tempt the thousands of Spanish visitors who stroll across the bridge to shop. South of the ramparts is the newer part of town.
In Praça de São Teotónio, Casa do Eirado (1448) boasts a crenellated roof and late-Gothic window, adorned with the builder’s signature. The 18th-century Casa do Poço presents symmetrical windows and wrought-iron balconies.
The Convento de Ganfei, 5 km (3 miles) east of Valença on the N101, was reconstructed in the 11th century by a Norman priest. The convent retains exceptional Romanesque features, including ornamental animal and plant motifs and vestiges of medieval frescoes. To visit the chapel, ask for the key at the house opposite.
D2 £ @ n Rua 25 de Abril 103; 252 248 473
This small town enjoyed its boom years as a shipbuilding centre in the Age of Discovery; today it is a quiet fishing port. In the historic centre, the main attraction is the Mosteiro de Santa Clara, founded in 1318. The Gothic church contains the tombs of the nunnery’s founders, Dom Afonso Sanches (son of King Dinis) and his wife Dona Teresa Martins. The entire building is closed for redevelopment. By the Mosteiro de Santa Clara are parts of the imposing 5-km (3-mile) aqueduct, built in 1705–14, with 999 arches.
The Praça Vasco da Gama has an pillory in the shape of an arm with thrusting sword – a vivid warning to wrongdoers. Bordering the square is the 16th-century Igreja Matriz, with its Manueline portico, attributed to João de Castilho.
The town is a centre for lacemaking. Visitors can buy samples and see the skills at the Escola de Rendas (lacemaking school). The same building houses the Museu de Rendas (Lace Museum).
t Old Portuguese galleon docked in the harbour at Vila do Conde
⌂ Rua de Sāo Bento 70 § 252 248 470 # Tue–Sun ¢ Public hols
Experience Minho
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EAT Aloha Surf Bar Choose to sit on the terrace facing the fine beach at Vila do Conde, or in the contemporary interior. There is a good-value lunchtime buffet, as well as à la carte dishes, such as mixed meat grills D2 ⌂ Via Pedonal Manuel de Barros, Vila do Conde § 252 618 886 ¢ Mon & dinner ¡ ¡¡ Design & Wine This chic, modern restaurant serves a good range of petiscos (Portuguese tapas) and a mixture of Portuguese and international dishes, which are all served with excellent local wines D1 ⌂ Praça do Conselheiro Silva Torres 8, Caminha ∑ designwinehotel.com ¡¡ ¡ |