The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
Florida’s southernmost tip offers an irresistible
package for families interested in history, culture, watersports, and
nature. Lying close to the Caribbean islands, the Keys also share some
of the former’s characteristics. The Everglades are the culmination of
the state’s wilds, and have a Native American heritage. In the Fort
Myers-Naples area, the barrier islands boast some of the state’s best
beaches, while Naples is famous for arts and golf.
Signboards at the entrance to Robbie’s Marina,
Islamorada
Highlights
Sanibel Island
Collect shells at this famous island and enjoy its
safe beaches, family resorts, and great museums (see Sanibel and Captiva Islands).
Edison and Ford Winter Estates
Stimulate inventive young minds at the homes, gardens,
and laboratories of two of America’s greatest geniuses (see Edison and Ford Winter Estates).
Everglades National Park
Hike, bike, kayak, and boat around this mysterious
land of mangrove forest, forgotten islands, wetlands, and a river of
grass that teems with rare wildlife (see Everglades National Park).
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Visit this undersea park to see brilliantly colored
coral reefs by snorkel or aboard a glass-bottom boat (see John
Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park).
Key West
Head to this legendary island town to experience its
eccentricity and unique spirit (see Key
West).
Fort Myers River District
Take in local history and culture in downtown Fort
Myers, which has historic buildings, museums, galleries, and
monthly street parties.
The Best of The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
Christ of the Deep, John Pennekamp Coral
Reef State Park
The great outdoors, history, and culture make this
region a well-rounded destination with plenty for everyone. Families
can get their fill of sunny beaches, warm seawaters, and watersports
such as fishing, boating, jet-skiing, kayaking, and paddleboarding
during their stay in this area. Massive national and state parks, as
well as wildlife preserves, provide opportunities to hike, bike, and
get close to nature.
In and on the water
Flanked by the Atlantic Ocean, Florida Bay, and the
Gulf of Mexico, this area demands getting wet – or at least wetting a
line. Key Largo is a good place to initiate kids into the wonderful
world of underwater sightseeing. Ease them into it with a glass-bottom
boat tour at John
Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. When they are ready to jump in,
try the snorkeling tours offered by the park, or sign up with one of the
numerous operators in town. Fishing in the Atlantic can get rough, so
begin gently with a backwater Everglades fishing excursion from Flamingo Visitor Center or in
Everglades City. Head to Sanibel Island for an educational sea
life cruise into J. N.
“Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge.
Wildlife-watching
Alligator sightings are practically guaranteed at Royal
Palm Visitor Center, to the east of Everglades National Park, and at Shark Valley Visitor
Center, in the west, while white-tailed deer and raccoons also
make occasional appearances. At Flamingo Visitor
Center, saltwater crocodiles often sun themselves on the boat
ramp. Bird-watchers should be able to tick off dozens of bird species
from their “life list” of sightings in the Everglades National Park and Big
Cypress National Preserve. Other birding hot spots include Tigertail Beach on Marco
Island and Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary, north of Naples.
Rambling around the Keys
With five to seven days to spend in the Florida Keys,
start with a trolley tour in Key
West. Spend the remainder of the day walking around the Old Town
and exploring the Key
West Aquarium and the Eco-Discovery Center before hitting the beach at Fort
Zachary Taylor Historic State Park. However, don’t miss sunset
at Mallory Square. Heading north, families can bike or kayak into National Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine
Key, then factor in some quality beach or snorkeling time at Bahia
Honda State Park. Marathon merits a day of exploration: go to Crane Point in the morning and either Pigeon Key or Sombrero Beach in the afternoon. Devote the remaining days to
kayaking and snorkeling in Islamorada and Key
Largo.
Aerial view of Duval Street, a famous shopping and
dining hub in the heart of Old Town in Key West
History hot spots
Local history runs deep throughout the region. One of
Florida’s oldest commercial ports, Key West
holds the most treasures in its Old Town. Pigeon
Key has the historic remains of the operation to build a
railroad to Key West. The Museum of the
Everglades tells the story of the building of Tamiami Trail
through the Everglades’ wetlands and swamps. The Marco Island
Historical Museum focuses on the island’s past as an ancient
Calusa Indian capital. The Edison and Ford Winter
Estates, in Fort
Myers, shed light on the lives of the two scientists who
vacationed there. The Southwest Florida Museum of History explores the area’s
fishing, cattle-ranching, and baseball heritages.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
Informative displays in the Bailey-Matthews Shell
Museum, Sanibel Island
Florida tapers off to its narrowest and flattest at
its southern tip. While barrier islands rim the shoreline along the Gulf
Coast, sandy beaches, mangrove estuaries, saltwater marshes, and the
shallow Florida Bay make up the unique Everglades. Farther south are the
Florida Keys, a string of islands that rest on a bed of coral and
limestone from ancient reefs. The Tamiami Trail (Highway 41), known as
“Alligator Alley” when it passes through the Everglades, connects the
areas in this region. Interstate 75 is a faster route, which links Fort
Lauderdale to Fort Myers and Naples.
2. Sanibel and Captiva Islands
4. J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge
11. Big Cypress National Preserve
19. John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
1. Fort Myers
Sunny skies and island beaches
Art of the Olympians Museum
Born out of the Seminole Wars that drove Native
Americans into the Everglades, Fort Myers grew slowly along the
Caloosahatchee River. In 1885, Thomas Edison saw bamboo growing
here, and, hoping to use it as filament for his new invention, the
light bulb, he built a winter home, putting Fort Myers on the map.
Today, the Historic Downtown District draws visitors to its museums,
theaters, shops, and restaurants. A trolley service links Fort
Myers’ main sights.
Key Sights
1. Edison and Ford Winter Estates Edison built two homes and a lab on the river and his friend Henry Ford of Ford Motors later moved in next door. Tour a museum, botanical gardens, and the homes.
2. Southwest Florida Museum of History Learn about the calusa tribesmen and cow-hunters, visit a cracker shack, and see a private pullman railcar at this museum.
3. Imaginarium Science Center Children will delight in seeing the local marine life (including sharks), feeling the force of a hurricane, or even touching a cloud.
4. Cape Coral Enjoy a day of fun at the Sunsplash Family Waterpark and Greenwell’s Bat-a-Ball and Family Fun Park, located in this town across the river from Fort Myers.
5. Naples Botanical Garden Walk among several beautiful tropical and subtropical gardens and a nature preserve spread over 170 acres (69 ha). Kids will love the interactive Children’s Garden, complete with colorful butterflies, a tree- house, and a Hidden Garden.
6. Manatee Park In winter, watch snout-faced manatees in the warm waters of this park from the observation decks, or kayak among them for a whole new experience.
7. Calusa Nature Center and Planetarium Meet fascinating creatures from southwest Florida, then head to the planetarium to view the heavens.
Left Imaginarium Science Center
Middle Calusa Nature Center and
Planetarium Right Pirate manatee at Manatee
Park
Kids’ Corner
Do you know…
- Unlike cattle drivers in the West, those in Florida took offense at being called “cowboys.” Do you know what they were called instead?
- Fort Myers’ Summerlin Avenue is named for Jake Summerlin. Who was he?
- Is it true that manatees feed on fish?
Inventions Galore
Thomas Edison patented more than 1,000
inventions in his lifetime. The museum at the Edison and
Ford Winter Estates displays many of them. Edison also
helped to put an end to the practice of free-ranging, as he
got tired of cattle roaming through his gardens.
Garden riddles
Look for the answers to these tree riddles
in the Edison and Ford Winter Estates:
- I’d like this with shortcake.
- I’ll take this to the movies.
- I’ll order this with eggs for breakfast.
- We should crown this tree king or queen.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
2. Sanibel and Captiva Islands
Shell-bent and water-bound
Vacationers at one of Sanibel Island’s beautiful
beaches
These two barrier islands, attached by a short bridge,
boast a reputation for shelling, and also for wildlife and watersports.
The islands have given rise to the expressions Sanibel Stoop and Captiva
Crouch, which refer to the posture shell-seekers habitually assume while
hunting on the shell-blanketed beaches.
A causeway from the mainland brings visitors to Sanibel
Island, more than half of which is a protected wildlife refuge. The Sanibel Historical Museum and Village
exhibits historic island homes and buildings. At Sanibel’s Lighthouse Beach, there is lots to do – from
fishing off the pier to exploring the historic lighthouse and the nature
trails. Along the island’s “conservation corridor,” nature-lovers can
learn how the Clinic for the Rehabilitation of
Wildlife (CROW) administers to sick and orphaned animals. Visit
a butterfly house, climb an observation tower for fine views, and hike
trails at the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation
Foundation (SCCF).
Farther north, Captiva Island has an off-the-beaten-path
vibe. Rent a boat or kayak at one of the marinas to fish, or to explore
the upper islands. Charter and tour boats customize tours for
shelling, fishing, and dolphin-watching.
Kids’ Corner
What kind of shell am I?
See if you can solve these shell name
riddles when you visit the Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum and
comb the shelling beaches of Sanibel and Captiva Islands:
- You can write a message in the sand with me.
- Some people use me in their eggnog.
- I strike during thunderstorms.
- You might think I should be wearing boxing gloves.
- Some people tell the time using my name.
- I don’t grow in Holland as my name suggests.
- I know my ABCs.
- I look a little like a pet’s foot.
- I fly in the heavens.
- Noah sailed in one.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
3. Upper Islands
Adrift from the mainland
Boating off a beach at Cayo Costa State Park
North of Captiva Island are a set of islands with no
bridges to the mainland, and no means of access other than by boat.
Closest to Captiva, North Captiva Island broke off from its parent
island during a hurricane in the 1920s. Private and vacation rental
homes, a grassy airstrip, and a club occupy the quiet, 5-mile- (8-km-)
long island, along with superb beaches and restaurants. Walk or rent a
golf cart to get around the island.
Farther north, Cayo Costa Island is mostly occupied by
the Cayo Costa State Park, where visitors can
swim, collect shells, hike, and camp or rent cabins. Look out for the
pioneer cemetery along one of several nature trails.
Between Cayo Costa and the mainland, Cabbage Key has no
beaches, but its rustic 1920s Cabbage Key Inn is a great attraction for
the island-hopping lunch crowd. Have a bite to eat, and then walk it off
along a short nature trail. Visitors can also spend the night at the
inn, or in one of its cottages.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
4. J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge
Into the wild
Horseshoe crab in J.N. “Ding” Darling National
Wildlife Refuge, Sanibel Island
Named for Jay Norwood, a Pulitzer-Prize-winning
American cartoonist, and covering more than half of Sanibel Island,
“Ding” gives the island its reputation among wildlife-lovers, especially
birders. It counts about 230 species of birds among its resident and
migrating populations, including the bald eagle, the roseate spoonbill,
and the mangrove cuckoo.
At its main campus along Sanibel-Captiva Road, the
refuge has an Education Center, a 4-mile (6-km) Wildlife Drive through
wetlands, an observation tower, and several trails. Nearby, Bailey Tract
protects a different freshwater habitat, which alligators and nocturnal
bobcats frequent.
Kids’ Corner
Bird’s eye view
At J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife
Refuge, climb the observation tower on Wildlife Drive. Peek
through the telescope and see how many different types of
birds you can spot. Look closely for markings, and beak,
leg, and feet colourings.
Did you know…
- Pileated woodpeckers drum on trees with their beaks to establish their territory and to attract mates.
- Eastern screech owls come in red, brown, or gray colors.
- The two main reasons why bald eagles are brought to CROW are electrocution and fights with other eagles.
- The magnificent frigate bird is also known as a man o’ war.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
5. Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary
A big bird’s nest and age-old trees
Black-crowned night heron in the Corkscrew Swamp
Sanctuary
Some 20 miles (32 km) inland lies a whole different
brand of water wonderland – the swamp. The Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary is
the regional headquarters of the Great Florida Birding Trail, and here
nature-lovers can wander a 2-mile (4-km) boardwalk to explore a rich
habitat where alligators, bobcats, black bears, and white-tailed deer
cavort. Perhaps the sanctuary’s most important creature, however, is the
wood stork. These big white-and-black birds come to nest in the
500-year-old bald cypress trees. The towering trees, with their
protruding “knees,” constitute the species’ largest old-growth stand in
the country. The wood stork is only one of the 200 or so species that
visit the sanctuary – others include wading birds, songbirds, raptors,
the tricolored heron, and the fabulous painted bunting.
Kids’ Corner
Do you know…
- What is the name of the margin where seagrasses, shells, and other flotsam are washed up at high tide?
- Florida’s signature food fish is sweet and mild and goes by a “gang” name. Can you guess its name?
- Fresh and salt water mix to support a blend of sea life in a specific type of habitat. Do you know what this habitat is called?
Crazy creatures
South Florida has some funny-looking
animals – pink birds that eat with spoons, potato-shaped
manatees, and toothy gators, crocodiles, and sharks. See
what really bizarre creatures you can come up with by mixing
different parts of the animals in your drawings – a manatee
with a roseate spoonbill’s legs and beak, for instance. What
names would you give your invented critters?
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
6. Naples
A little Italy, Florida-style
Vanderbilt Beach, a popular white-sand beach in
Naples
The hardy pioneers who settled south of Florida’s west
coast compared the area’s beaches and waterways to those of Italy, and
so they named their settlement Naples-on-the-Gulf. Today, the city’s
architecture and cuisine have an Italian flavor.
Once a rough-and-tumble Indian trading post, Naples has
evolved into a haven for vacationers seeking golf, shopping, and fine
dining. The heart of downtown, known as Old Naples, has two fashionable
streets – Fifth Avenue South and Third Street South. Most of the town’s
superb restaurants are located here. Near Third Street South, the Naples
Pier stretches into the Gulf of Mexico from the beach’s soft white
sands.
Northeast of the downtown area, the Children’s Museum of Naples is located in
North Collier Regional Park, also home to the Sun-n-Fun Lagoon water park. In the museum, kids can drive a
facsimile of the Naples Trolley, climb up to a tree house, walk into a
seashell, and chill out in an igloo.
With the Everglades at its back door, Naples sees plenty
of wildlife. However, the easiest way to spot animals – local and from
as far away as Madagascar – is to head to Naples
Zoo. Special animal shows, giraffe hand-feeding, and a boat
excursion to Primate Island add adventure to a visit.
Kids’ Corner
Turtle tutorial
Sea turtles make nests on Florida’s
beaches from April to October. At night the females dig
holes in which to lay their eggs, which look like Ping-Pong
balls. Each turtle lays about 100 eggs, and the heat of the
sand determines whether each egg hatches as a boy or a girl.
An adult leatherback turtle can weigh up to 907 kg (2,000
lb). Sea turtles can live to be 150 years old!
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
7. Marco Island
Indians, fishermen, and one cool cat
The jumping-off point for Ten Thousand Islands, a maze
of protected islands to the south, Marco Island prides itself on its
fishing and boating. Rent or charter a boat from one of the island’s
marinas and get out on the water. At its east end, the fishing town of
Goodland retains the salty character of old-time fishing communities.
The Calusa Indians fished these waters for 1,500 years,
until they were wiped out by European invaders. They built one center of
their kingdom on Marco Island, as revealed by archaeological excavations
in 1895. One important find, a carved wood effigy known as the Key Marco
Cat, now resides in the Smithsonian Institution in Washington D.C.
Families can drive over the top of one 58-ft (18-m) ancient shell mound
and follow trails along another at the Otter
Mound Preserve.
Two public beach accesses welcome visitors to Marco’s
wide beaches. Tigertail Beach has playgrounds
and a sheltered lagoon that draws lots of birds, especially in winter.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
8. Everglades National Park
Florida’s land down under
View from the observation tower
Displaced Native Americans and outlaws were among
the first to settle in this forbidding land riddled with swamps at
the very bottom of Florida. Later came slick developers who wanted
to drain the precious wetland in favor of building. Luckily, Marjory
Douglas Stoneman stepped up in the 1940s to make sure that this
special territory would forever be protected as the Everglades
National Park. Today, the park safeguards 2,200 sq miles (3,540 sq
km), and more than 1,000 species of fish, birds, reptiles,
amphibians, and mammals.
Key Sights
1. Flamingo Visitor Center See the exhibits and pick up maps for exploring trails and waterways. Besides a marina and store, the center also has a campground on Florida Bay.
2. Trails along the drive to Flamingo The 38-mile (60-km) Main Park Road passes four major trailheads for short hikes: Pinelands Trail, Pa-hay-okee Overlook, Mahogany Hammock Trail, and West Lake.
3. Long Pine Key Arguably the prettiest spot in the Everglades, this area’s forest of pine trees is perfect for picnicking, or an overnight stay in the well-kept campground.
4. Royal Palm Visitor Center The first stop along the Main Park Road to Flamingo, this is one of the best places to spot wildlife. The popular Anhinga and Gumbo Limbo trails begin here.
5. Ernest Coe Visitor Center/Main Entrance This center lies outside the park gates and its interactive exhibits make a good introduction to the park.
6. Shark Valley Entrance/Visitor Center Hike, bike, or take the tram tour from here around the 15-mile (24-km) loop trail. Climb the observation tower for fine views.
7. Gulf Coast Entrance/Visitor Center Hiking, boating, kayaking, and biking tours depart from this west coast gateway in the historic fishing town of Everglades City.
Left Ernest Coe Visitor Center
Middle Flamingo Visitor Center
Right Royal Palm Visitor Center
Kids’ Corner
Croc or gator?
How can you tell a crocodile from an
alligator? Luckily, you don’t have to get too close to
distinguish one from the other!
- The American alligator has dark skin and a wide snout for cracking turtle shells.
- A croc is lighter in color than a gator, with a narrower, pointier snout and a flatter profile in the water.
- When a gator closes its mouth, the teeth in its top jaw are the only ones visible. When a croc closes its mouth, you can see its distinctive overbite: the teeth of both jaws are visible.
How Do You Spell “Everglades”?
Write out Everglades National Park,
leaving spaces between the letters. For each letter in the
park’s name, think of something you saw or learned about
that starts with that letter. Write them down, until you’ve
used up all 22 letters with no repeated words.
Collecting birds
Serious birders keep what they call a life
list – a record of every species of bird they have seen in
the wilds during their lifetime. The Everglades, with 366
species, is the best place to start your Florida life list.
With the help of a ranger, see how many
birds you can spot. Print the Florida bird list at fl.audubon.org/PDFs/birds_checklist.pdf,
and check off all the birds you saw.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
9. Biscayne National Park
Water, water, everywhere
This vast, mostly underwater refuge encompasses the
third-longest stretch of coral reef in the world. Geographically, the
park kicks off the Florida Keys, and, for outdoor enthusiasts, it has it
all – boating, kayaking, snorkeling, scuba diving, hiking, camping, and
also a slice of history dating back to the Tequesta Indians. However, it
takes some effort to enjoy what’s best about the park, namely what’s
under and out on the water. Biscayne’s two main islands – Boca Chita and
Elliott Key – are accessible only by boat, but worth the trip to learn
about some quirky elements of local history, hike trails, go fishing,
and camp overnight.
Kids’ Corner
Plant a tree
When paddling among the saltwater
mangroves, look out for long, green, bean-like seeds bobbing
in the water. Known as props (short for propagules), they
drop off of mangrove trees. If you find one, stick the
sprouting end into mud to give life to another tree.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
10. Miccosukee Indian Village
Going native
Palmetto dolls and beadwork for sale in the
Miccosukee Indian Village
The Miccosukee Indian tribe has lived at the edge of
the Everglades on a narrow strip of land since the Seminole Wars chased
them from their homeland, Tallahassee, in the 1800s. Today, visitors can
experience their way of life and learn about their beliefs at this
village. Guided and self-guided tours of the superb museum and its
grounds explore the history of the Miccosukee and their thatched huts,
or chickee, with elevated floors. Members of the tribe give
daring alligator presentations and demonstrate native crafts all day.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
11. Big Cypress National Preserve
Bald cypresses, furry critters, and feathered friends
The US government legislated the creation of Big
Cypress to put an end to logging operations that were depleting the
forest of its tall, beautiful, bald cypress trees. The preserve provides
a number of options for adventure enthusiasts. Begin at the Oasis Visitor Center or Big Cypress Swamp Welcome Center. The Oasis’
boardwalk is a great place to see gators swimming down below. Walk the
boardwalk at the Big Cypress and listen to the manatees blow as they
surface for a breath of air. Pick up a map at either center and rent a
kayak in Everglades City to paddle trails, or hike on part of the
statewide Florida Trail. In the dry season, following one of the scenic
drives is a good idea.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
12. Everglades City
Gateway to the Gulf Coast
Bald cypress trees in Fakahatchee Strand State
Preserve
Located at the western entrance to the Everglades
National Park, this sleepy little town offers opportunities for fishing,
kayaking, and airboat rides. Nearby, there are attractions that
introduce families to the Everglades’ unique plant and animal life. The
Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve, 5
miles (8 km) north of town, is known for its wild orchids. Located 15
miles (24 km) to the northwest, the Collier-Seminole State Park is the place for biking, hiking,
and camping. From here, head for Wooten’s Airboat
Tours (www.wootenseverglades.com), 6 miles (9 km) to the northeast,
where a gator pond and animal exhibits, as well as shows, supplement
tours.
Kids’ Corner
’Glades vocab
- ’Glades: Long before Everglades National Park existed, the name Everglades was applied to the region and its ecology. “Ever” comes from the word “forever” and “glades” means a forest clearing. Locals call it ’Glades for short.
- Seminoles: The US government gave this name, which means “runaway,” to the almost 20 different tribes that migrated to Florida in its early days before statehood.
- Airboat: Specially made for Everglades travel by frog hunters, this noisy, jet-propelled craft practically flies across the local shallows.
- Swamp buggy: Engineered specifically for traveling across Everglades wetlands, its big tires and elevated bed make for high-and-dry touring.
Sharp spotter
On the drive across the Tamiami Trail, you
will see lots of alligators alongside the parallel-running
waterway. A little tricky to spot, they may be on the bank
sunning themselves, or in the water. Take a close look at
what appears to be a log. If you can see a snout and what
looks like tire tread, you’ve got yourself a gator!
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
13. Key West
Pirates, shipwrecks, and treasure
Historic Seaport at Key West Bight
Ever seen a six-toed cat or a man riding a bike
with an iguana on his shoulder? Both sights are likely in Key West,
the most popular destination in the Florida Keys. The Old Town, the
city’s downtown core, is known for its party vibe. Nonetheless, a
wealth of attractions and a history dating back to 19th-century
pirates makes it a huge draw for families. It lies at the end of a
necklace of keys (small islands) where wildlife encounters, beaches,
parks, and watersports fill mellow days.
Key Sights
1. Historic Seaport at Key West Bight This restored neighborhood and its Harborwalk form the earthy heart of Old Town, filled with activity, shopping, dining, and watersports charters.
2. Mallory Square Celebrate sunset every night at this cruise ship dock, with musicians and magicians, and conch fritter and margarita vendors.
3. Key West Aquarium Built in 1934, this was the world’s first open-air aquarium, though it is now mostly enclosed. Take a tour to watch the guides feed sharks, stingrays, and sea turtles.
4. Eco-Discovery Center This attraction shows off the Keys’ natural treasures – their valuable coral reef and ecosystems. Kids will like the walk-through model of an underwater ocean lab.
5. Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State Park This Civil War-era fort sits on prime beachfront. Follow a fort tour with a dip and a nature hike.
6. Key West Lighthouse Museum Climb the 88 steps to the top of the 92-ft (28-m) tower built here in 1844, for fine views. Go to the adjacent lighthouse-keeper’s home, where historic exhibits tell the story of the keepers.
7. Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum Find about 50 six-toed cats snoozing around this house, where famous novelist Ernest Hemingway lived and wrote from 1931 to 1942.
8. Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory Walk into a glass bubble that encases more than 40 species of butterflies, plus birds, waterfalls, and lush vegetation. The gift shop is also a must-visit.
Left Key West Lighthouse Museum
Middle Fort Zachary Taylor Historic State
Park Right Entrance to Mallory Square
Kids’ Corner
Turtle tale
Five different types of endangered sea
turtle inhabit the waters of the Florida Keys. What are they
called?
Critter menu
While learning about the Keys’ wildlife –
its fish, dolphins, sharks, turtles, manatees, birds,
butterflies, and deer – pay close attention to the kinds of
food each animal likes to eat. Using paper and crayons,
write and illustrate a dinner menu for all the animals you
have encountered.
Write on!
Besides Hemingway, Key West has inspired
Robert Frost, Tennessee Williams, and other great writers.
See if you can become the next great Key West author by
writing a short story using the prompt, “The first day I
visited Key West, I could not believe…”
Tricky … and sneaky
Did you know that wreckers once made Key
West the richest city in the world? The wreckers would
deliberately cause shipwrecks by hanging lanterns near
dangerous coral reefs. As ships crashed onto the reefs, the
wreckers would row out to rescue passengers and crew, but
they also grabbed any valuable cargo the ships were
carrying.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
14. Big Pine Key
Home of the Key deer
An alligator in the Blue Hole, a flooded limestone
quarry in Big Pine Key
Just over the bridge from downtown Key West, there is
a distinct change of pace as the Overseas Highway takes visitors to a
slower, more relaxed part of Florida.
Look out for Mile Markers, the small green rectangular
signs that mark the miles and give directions in the Keys. Around about
MM 32, signs caution drivers to slow down to protect the endangered Key
deer population of Big Pine Key. The best place to spot these undersized
deer, fewer than 800 of which remain, is the National Key Deer Refuge at No Name Key. While in the refuge,
visit the Blue Hole, an old quarry filled with water that is home to one
resident alligator, as well as other wildlife, and then hike the easy
trails.
Big Pine Key is also known for fishing and kayaking.
Paddling trails lead into refuge waters that look like a maze of
mangrove islands. Follow a tour to avoid getting lost.
Kids’ Corner
Did you know…
- The Key deer is a subspecies of the Virginia white-tailed deer.
- The male Key deer is less than 32 inches (81 cm) high at the shoulder and weighs around 36 kg (80 lb).
- By 1927, hunters had decimated Key deer numbers to fewer than 30.
- Key deer are mostly found in Big Pine Key, but they range around the Lower Keys and even swim to some islands not connected by roads.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
15. Bahia Honda State Park
Great beaches and a really long bridge
Old Bahia Honda Bridge, seen at sunset from Bahia
Honda State Park
Often seen on America’s best beaches lists, Bahia
Honda’s white sands, turquoise waters, multihued coral reefs, and
well-stocked marina make it great for families. Swimming and snorkeling
are the most popular activities, but the marina also rents kayaks. It is
possible to explore the offshore reef on a snorkeling cruise that the
marina offers twice a day. Rangers lead hikes and host talks year-round;
consider hiking the beautiful Silver Palm Nature Trail.
At the end of Bahia Honda Key, at MM 40, the Overseas
Highway reaches one of the world’s longest segmental bridges – the famed
Seven-Mile Bridge. This railroad bridge is now disused but was
considered an engineering marvel when it was completed in 1912 and is
listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It is possible to
walk or bike along the old bridge, and fish from the northernmost 2-mile
(3-km) section, which is accessible from Marathon.
Kids’ Corner
Snorkel scavenge
To preserve reefs, you should avoid
touching the coral and collecting shells or other sea life.
But after you’ve surfaced, see who can tally up the most
points for having spotted these reef and seagrass meadow
inhabitants:
- Tubed Sponge (1 point)
- Sergeant Major Fish (1 point)
- Conch Shell (1 point)
- Angelfish (1 point)
- Sea Fan (1 point)
- Fire Coral (2 points)
- Sea Urchin (2 points)
- Sea Cucumber (3 points)
- Spiny Lobster (4 points)
- Sea Turtle (5 points)
- Octopus (5 points)
- Sea horse (5 points)
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
16. Marathon
Dolphins and pirates
The Dolphin Research Center, Grassy Key, home to
both dolphins and sea lions
Outside of Key West, the town of Marathon holds most
of the Keys’ historic and natural attractions. The neighboring Grassy
and Duck keys boast two dolphin encounter operations – the Dolphin Research Center and Dolphin Connection – where visitors can pet
a dolphin and also paint with one.
Another type of Keys sea life can be seen on the mend at
the Turtle Hospital. In summer, the
possibility of seeing sea turtle hatchlings adds more excitement to
visiting and feeding the mammoth adults.
Crane Point combines nature
and history in extensive waterfront woods. There is a natural history
museum, a pirate dress-up ship for kids, the Wild Bird Center, a
historic home, and nature trails.
Marathon was named for the breakneck speed at which the
railroad was built. Below the Seven-Mile Bridge, Pigeon Key was home to the construction workers. Board a ferry
(305 743 5999) at Marathon’s southern end to tour the old
village and its railroad museum.
Kids’ Corner
Turn over a new leaf
Crane Point’s Hammock Loop Trail
identifies the types of trees you will see throughout the
site. Carry a notepad and pencil to make a sketch of each
tree and its leaves, to help you spot them along the way.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
17. Islamorada
Fighting fish, hungry tarpon, and the tree of life
Kayak Shack at Robbie’s Marina selling a variety of
merchandise, Islamorada
Known as the sport-fishing capital of the world,
Islamorada is a 20-mile (32-km) strip of seven separate islands. A good
place to start exploring Islamorada’s rich sea world is Robbie’s Marina, located at the southern end
of the chain of keys. Buy a bucket of bait to feed the powerful tarpon
at the dock, shop the crafts booths, and sign up for a boat ride to Indian Key State Park and Lignumvitae Key Botanical State Park.
Alternatively, rent a kayak from Robbie’s Marina and paddle out to
Indian Key State Park. Be sure to bring along snorkeling equipment.
Visit the History of Diving
Museum to discover more about underwater exploration. The museum
has exhibits on sunken treasure, the filming of 20,000 Leagues Under
the Sea, and early diving gear. Children will enjoy the Theater of the Sea, where they can interact
with dolphins, sea lions, and stingrays, or ride a glass-bottom boat to
see what lies under water.
Kids’ Corner
Do you know…
Why the early settlers named
Islamorada “the purple island”?
Fishy riddles
From the clues below, guess the names of
these fish that swim in Keys waters:
- I’ve got something to pick with this fish.
- It’s not a Smurf, but maybe it’s related.
- When I see this fish, I think I’ve died and gone to heaven.
- I wonder if this fish would like a cracker.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
18. Key Largo
Underwater capital of the world
Colorful corals in Key Largo, with the Christ of
the Deep in the background
One of the most popular destinations for snorkeling in
the world, Key Largo is famous for its namesake movie Key Largo
(1948) starring Humphrey Bogart , although no actual filming took place
here. Today you can see the original steamboat that starred in The
African Queen (1952) at the marina, next to the Holiday Inn at
MM 100 – it does cruise tours. There is also a glass-bottom boat here,
the Key Largo Princess (www.keylargoprincess.com), which offers tours of the
region’s legendary coral reefs.
Created in 1990, the Florida Keys
National Marine Sanctuary protects 2,900 sq nautical miles
(9,947 sq km) of waters surrounding the Florida Keys and more than 6,000
marine species. Just step into the water to reach the sanctuary, or
explore the colorful world of coral and fish by snorkeling or scuba
diving. Charters also take visitors under water to see the submerged
9-ft (3-m) statue, Christ of the Deep. Alternatively, the dolphin
encounter operations in Key Largo, Dolphins
Plus, offers educational and interactive programs, as well as
sea lion swims.
Kids’ Corner
Do you know…
1. That Lignumvitae Key shares its
name with a rare tree that grows here. What does
Lignumvitae mean in Latin?
2. If it is true that the original
casting of the Christ of the Deep is submerged in
the Mediterranean Sea?
The Long Island
Key Largo is one of several keys in the
chain that were named by Spanish explorers. In Spanish, it
means “long key,” and true to its name, it is 15 miles (24
km) in length.
< The Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
19. John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
Nature meets history
Far Beach, a scenic strip of sand in John Pennekamp
Coral Reef State Park
The first undersea park in the US, the John Pennekamp
Coral Reef State Park is located close to the Florida Keys National
Marine Sanctuary. The visitor center has a massive reef aquarium, and
the park’s concessions provide diving, snorkeling, and glass-bottom boat
excursions, and rent out equipment. Snorkelers off Cannon Beach can see
the ruins of a Spanish ship just 100 ft (30 m) from shore. Families can
rent kayaks, canoes, and powerboats, or hike the short trails and then
picnic at one of the two beaches in the park. Pretty, palm-fringed Far
Beach is ideal for a relaxing day spent sunbathing or splashing around
in the water.
Kids’ Corner
Colorful coral
Corals have transparent bodies. They get
their brilliant colors from algae, called zooxanthellae,
that live in their tissues.
Where to Stay in the Lower Gulf Coast, Everglades, and Keys
From waterfront campgrounds and chain hotels to
vacation homes and grand resorts, this region has it all. While Key
West is renowned for its B&Bs, camping is part of the Everglades
experience. For exploring the Everglades and the Keys, staying at a
chain hotel in Homestead and Florida City is the best option.
Price Guide
The following price ranges are based on one
night’s accommodation in high season for a family of four, inclusive
of service charges and additional taxes.
$: Under $150; $$: $150–300; $$$: over $300
Agencies
Island Visitors Center
This agency lists a variety of vacation
rentals for visitors, such as condos, cottages, and luxury
homes.
Rent Key West
This website offers weekly and monthly
rentals, from historic downtown bungalows to waterside homes
with their own pool.
Everglades National Park
Self-catering
Port of the Islands Everglades Adventure Resort
25000 Tamiami
Trail E, Naples, 34114; 239 394 3005;
poiresort.com
Located near the Gulf Coast entrance to
the Everglades National Park this pleasant place packages
adventure excursions with lodgings. It is the resort nearest
to the national park.
$$ • Wi-Fi • Family rooms • Parking • Swimming pool
$$ • Wi-Fi • Family rooms • Parking • Swimming pool
A bedroom at Port of the Islands
Everglades Adventure Resort
Camping
Big Cypress National Preserve Campgrounds
Tamiami
Trail; 239 695 1201; www.nps.gov/bicy
These four free, quite basic campgrounds,
and two fee-paying parks with RV lodging, are located off
the Tamiami Trail. The campgrounds have no showers or
restrooms, and sites are available on a first-come,
first-served basis. Some sites are inaccessible in summer
due to flooding.
$ • Credit cards not accepted • Parking
$ • Credit cards not accepted • Parking
Flamingo Campground
Flamingo;
3052427700 (park) and 877 444 6777
(reservations); www.nps.gov/ever
This campground sits on the shores of
Florida Bay, and more than 60 of the sites offer great bay
views. Most of the sites are drive-in, but some are walk-in.
Close to the marina, the campground affords easy access to
paddlecraft rentals and boating tours.
$ • Cafe • Beach
$ • Cafe • Beach
Key Largo
Resort
Hilton Key Largo Resort
97000 Overseas
Hwy (MM 97), 33037; 305 852 5553 or
888 871 3437; www.keylargoresort.com
With its lovely private beach, 12.5 acres
of tropical hardwoods, and two pools, this full-service
resort is good for families. It feels safer than some of the
other resorts because it is set back from the main road.
$$$ • Wi-Fi • Garden • Restaurant • Parking • Swimming pool
$$$ • Wi-Fi • Garden • Restaurant • Parking • Swimming pool
Camping
John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park
102601
Overseas Hwy (MM 102.5), 33037; 305 451
1202 (park); www.floridastateparks.org/pennekamp
RV and tent sites are tucked into this
park’s shady grounds, out of the way of day visitors. A
variety of activities sure to keep the kids happily occupied
are available here, with beaches and glass-bottom boat
tours, plus woods to explore. Call well in advance for
reservations.
$ • Garden • Beach • Parking • Playground
$ • Garden • Beach • Parking • Playground
An RV parked at John Pennekamp Coral
Reef State Park
Marathon/Big Pine Key
Resorts
Gulf View Waterfront Resort
58743 Overseas
Hwy (MM 58.5), Marathon, 33050; 305 289
1414 or 877 289 0111; www.gulfviewwaterfrontresort.com
Not far from the Dolphin Research Center,
this resort offers discount vouchers to the
sealife-encounter attraction, and also has its own small
menagerie of critters. Rooms are simple, but families will
spend most time on the beach, in the pool, or paddling in
the Gulf.
$$ • Garden • Wi-Fi • Parking • Swimming pool
$$ • Garden • Wi-Fi • Parking • Swimming pool
Hawks Cay Resort
Hawks Cay Blvd
(MM 61), Duck Key, 33050; 305 743 7000
or 888 395 5539; www.hawkscay.com
Something of its own little village, this
resort caters to families with its on-site Dolphin
Connection interaction operation, a kids’ club with a fun
pirate ship-themed pool and games, supervised programs, and
watersports concessions at the marina.
$$ • Wi-Fi • Restaurant • Parking • Swimming pool
$$ • Wi-Fi • Restaurant • Parking • Swimming pool
The artificial lagoon at Hawks Cay
Resort, fringed with coral reefs
Camping
Bahia Honda State Park
36850 Overseas
Hwy, Big Pine Key, 33043; 305 872 2353
(park) or 800 326 3521 (reservations); www.floridastateparks.org/bahiahonda
Choose from waterfront cabins or RV and
tent campsites close to the most beautiful beaches in the
Keys. Guests have access to the park’s additional
facilities: snorkeling, beaches, nature trails, and
educational programs. Reserve well in advance.
– • Garden • Kitchen facilities • Parking • Beach
– • Garden • Kitchen facilities • Parking • Beach