MASHBUSS RUBYAN
SAUDI ARABIA
Mashbuss, makbuss, or kabsah are different names for more or less the same rice and meat (or fish or seafood or poultry) dish, a classic of the Arabian Gulf, also known in Dubai as foga (meaning “over” because the rice is cooked over the meat or fish element of the dish). Mashbuss originated in Yemen but it has become so much a part of the Arabian Gulf’s culinary repertoire—with slight variations depending on where you are—that no one ever mentions its origins. The recipe below is for the Saudi version of shrimp mashbuss (for a Qatari version that is quite different, see here). A Saudi woman chef, Rajaa Merani, who I was helping modernize a Saudi menu for a restaurant, gave me this recipe as well as the Saudi Lamb Kabsa.
SERVES 6
Pinch of saffron threads
¼ cup (60 ml) rose water
FOR THE SHRIMP
2¼ pounds (1 kg) shell-on shrimp
1 small onion (3½ ounces/100 g), quartered
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cinnamon stick
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
2 whole cloves
2 green cardamom pods, smashed
Sea salt
FOR THE SAUCE
¼ cup (60 ml) vegetable oil
3 large onions (1 pound 5 ounces/600 g total), finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced to a fine paste
½ inch (1 cm) fresh ginger, peeled and minced to a fine paste
1 fresh red or green chili, finely chopped
1½ teaspoons b’zar (Arabian Spice Mixture)
1 teaspoon ground dried limes
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ bunch cilantro (about 3½ ounces/100 g), most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
Sea salt
FOR THE RICE
Sea salt
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
2 whole cloves
2 green cardamom pods, smashed
2½ cups (500 g) basmati rice, soaked for 2 hours in 2 quarts (2 liters) water with 2 tablespoons salt
FOR ASSEMBLY AND SERVING
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more for the onion
1 large onion (7 ounces/200 g), halved lengthwise and cut into thin wedges
1. Put the saffron to steep in the rose water.
2. To cook the shrimp: Put 6 cups (1.5 liters) water in a saucepan. Add the onion, turmeric, cinnamon stick, peppercorns, cloves, and cardamom and bring to a boil over medium heat. Season with salt, then add the shrimp and poach for 1 minute. Drain the shrimp and let them cool for a few minutes before peeling them.
3. To make the sauce: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until very soft and golden. Add the garlic, ginger, chili, and ground spices and mix well. Stir in the shrimp and cilantro. Add salt to taste and mix well. Add 1 tablespoon of the saffron rose water and take off the heat.
4. To parboil the rice: Put 2 quarts (2 liters) water and 1 tablespoon salt in a large pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the peppercorns, cloves, and cardamom. Drain the rice and add to the pan. Boil for 3 minutes. Drain the rice.
5. To assemble the mashbuss: Put 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and 1 tablespoon saffron-rose water in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Let the oil and saffron-rose water sizzle a little before spooning half the rice into the pan. Spread the shrimp and sauce over the rice and cover with the rest of the rice. Sprinkle with the remaining saffron-rose water. Wrap the lid with a clean kitchen towel and place over the pan. Reduce the heat to low and let the rice steam for 30 to 40 minutes, until completely fluffy.
6. Meanwhile, heat a little oil in a skillet. Add the onion and fry, stirring regularly, until crisp and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon into a sieve and shake to get rid of any excess oil.
7. Transfer the rice and shrimp to a serving dish. Garnish with the crisp onions and serve hot with the Saudi “salsa.”