ÂSH-E ANÂR
IRAN
I’ve had this soup, a winter specialty from Tabriz in Iran, as street food in a bustling café in Tajrish market in Tehran, and I’ve had it for tea in the hushed tearoom of the grand Shah Abbasi hotel in Afghanistan. Of course the hotel version was more refined than the street version, but both were totally delicious. It is not the quickest soup to make but it is well worth trying for its richness and its intriguing sweet-savory flavor. Serve with barbari (Iranian Flatbread) or any other good bread.
SERVES 6
FOR THE SOUP
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), halved lengthwise and cut into thin wedges
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
⅔ cup (125 g) short-grain white rice, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
⅔ cup (125 g) yellow split peas, soaked for 30 minutes in cold water
Sea salt and finely ground black pepper
FOR THE MEATBALLS
8 ounces (250 g) lean ground lamb
1 medium onion (5 ounces/150 g), grated on the fine side of a grater
Sea salt and finely ground black pepper
TO FINISH
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley (7 ounces/200 g), most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
¾ bunch cilantro (5 ounces/150 g), most of the bottom stems discarded, finely chopped
¼ bunch mint (2 ounces/50 g), leaves stripped off the stems, finely chopped
1 bunch scallions (2 ounces/60 g), thinly sliced
⅓ cup (80 ml) pomegranate molasses
2 tablespoons raw cane sugar
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon dried mint
1. To start the soup: Heat the 2 tablespoons of oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onion and fry, stirring occasionally, until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add the turmeric and cinnamon and mix well. Drain the rice and split peas and add to the pot along with 8½ cups (2 liters) water. Season with salt and pepper to taste and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cover the pot. Let bubble while you prepare the meatballs.
2. Meanwhile, to make the meatballs: Put the ground lamb and grated onion in a medium mixing bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Mix well.
3. Lightly moisten your hands with a little water and pinch off a little meat to shape into a meatball the size of a regular marble. Drop the meatball into the simmering soup and continue making the meatballs and dropping them into the soup until you have used up all the meat. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to low, and let simmer for 30 minutes.
4. Add the herbs and scallions to the soup and simmer for another 30 minutes, until all the ingredients are cooked and the soup has become concentrated. Stir in the pomegranate molasses and sugar. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
5. Just before serving, heat the olive oil in a small skillet, add the dried mint, and let sizzle for a couple of minutes, or until fragrant.
6. Transfer the soup to a tureen. Drizzle the mint-flavored oil over the top and serve hot.
Ali Farboud