SAJ BOREK
TURKEY
Saj boreks are one of my favorite Turkish street foods. They are very thin flatbreads folded around a filling of spiced potatoes or spinach and cheese, baked over a saj (a large, flat metal sheet heated over woodfire or gas), then brushed with butter and served on paper to eat piping hot. The boreks are made by women who sit on low stools in the corner of a café or in small huts in parks with a large round low table in front of them, the saj to one side and the dough and fillings to the other. They spend their whole time rolling out large paper-thin sheets of dough, which they half cover with the client’s filling of choice. They then flap the plain half of the dough over the filling and deftly transfer the borek to the saj where they cook it on both sides. Once done, they brush the borek with a little butter and use a short knife with a wide curved blade to cut the borek before they serve it. It is very simple to make and absolutely exquisite.
MAKES 4 INDIVIDUAL BOREKS
Dough for Saj Bread
All-purpose flour, for shaping the dough
Spinach and Cheese Filling or Potato Filling
4 tablespoons (60 g) unsalted butter, melted
1. Make the dough, kneading and letting it rest as directed. Divide the dough into 4 equal portions. Roll each into a ball and let rest covered with a damp cloth while you prepare the filling of choice.
2. Flour your work surface. Dip one ball of dough in the flour on both sides, shake off the excess flour, then roll it out as thinly as you can, sprinkling it with flour every now and then to stop it from sticking. You should end up with a round 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter.
3. If using cheese and spinach filling, sprinkle one-quarter of the feta-parsley mixture over half the dough leaving a border free. Then sprinkle one-quarter of the spinach over the feta. If using the potato filling, spread one-quarter of it over half the dough. Fold the dough over the filling to make a half-moon. Press on the edges to seal them. Repeat to make a total of 4 saj boreks.
4. Heat a nonstick griddle or skillet over medium heat. Lift one filled saj borek onto the hot pan. Cook for a minute or so on one side, then flip and cook on the other until lightly crisp and golden on both sides. Transfer to a plate, brush with melted butter and serve immediately. Repeat with the remaining saj boreks and serve immediately. You can also make them ahead and reheat them in a very hot oven to crisp them up, but they are best eaten straightaway.
FILLINGS
SPINACH AND CHEESE
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 4 INDIVIDUAL BOREKS
4½ ounces (125 g) crumbled feta cheese
A few sprigs flat-leaf parsley, most of the stems discarded, finely chopped
3½ ounces (100 g) spinach, finely shredded
Sea salt and finely ground black pepper
Mix the feta with the parsley in a bowl. Put the spinach in a separate bowl and sprinkle it with a little salt. Rub the salt into the spinach with your fingers to soften it, then squeeze it dry. Loosen the shredded spinach to separate the strips as much as you can. Season with pepper to taste. Keep the spinach and cheese in separate bowls.
POTATO
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 4 INDIVIDUAL BOREKS
1 pound 2 ounces (500 g) potatoes
1 bunch (2 ounces/60 g) scallions, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon Aleppo pepper
⅓ cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Boil the potatoes and mash them. Add the sliced scallions, Aleppo pepper, and olive oil. Season with salt to taste and mix well.