The Prairies


The Prairies

Comprising the wide-open provinces of Alberta, Saskatchewan and Manitoba, the magnitude of this land is only fully appreciated while standing on the edge of a vivid-yellow canola field counting three different storms on the horizon. Travel the Prairies' byways and expect surprises, whether it's a moose looming up on an otherwise empty road or the dinosaur-encrusted badlands around Drumheller. Calgary has become unexpectedly cool, with top museums and cocktail bars; Winnipeg will stun you with its arts scene; while Saskatoon will wow you with its music. There aren't so many people on the prairies – but those that are here will go out of their way to make your visit memorable.

15-prairies-loc-bo-can1jpg
15-prairies-cgt-bo-can1

Three Days in the Prairies

Spend the day in Calgary exploring the Glenbow Museum and the National Music Centre, then grab a meal from Market on trendy 17th Ave. The next day, get into dino mode by taking a day trip to Drumheller and visiting the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Palaeontology. Back in Calgary, head east to step back in time at the authentic Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village.

One Week in the Prairies

Head east to Saskatoon to enjoy the urban pleasures – especially the food and drink – of the Paris of the Prairies. Carry on across those endless golden fields to Winnipeg. Take in the Canadian Museum for Human Rights and the eclectic St-Boniface Museum. End your prairie sojourn with live music at Times Chang(d) High & Lonesome Club and a drink with the locals at the King's Head Pub.

Arriving in the Prairies

Calgary International Airport Take bus 300 ($3, 45 minutes) or a taxi ($35) to the centre.

John G Diefenbaker Airport A taxi into central Saskatoon costs around $20.

Winnipeg International Airport Take bus 15 ($2.65) or grab a cab ($25).

Greyhound Buses ply the Prairies, linking all major cities. VIA Rail scoots across the Prairies, stopping in Winnipeg and Saskatoon.

Where to Stay

Calgary has recently found its independent spirit and established a range of boutique hotels across different price ranges. Hotels downtown in both Calgary and Winnipeg can be expensive, although many run frequent specials; Saskatoon offers better deals. All three have chain motels on the outskirts. During events such as the Calgary Stampede or music festivals, rates rise and availability plummets; book ahead.

122123515jpg
SUSAN MCDOUGALL PHOTOGRAPHY / GETTY IMAGES ©

TOP EXPERIENCE

Exploring Drumheller

This community in the Red Deer River Valley was founded on coal but now thrives on another subterranean resource – dinosaur bones.

15-drumheller-te-bo-can1jpg

Great For…

vgb

dont-missyDon't Miss

Discovering your own dino treasures on a summertime dinosaur dig ($15) at the Royal Tyrrell Museum.

need-to-know8Need to Know

Tourist Information Center (icon-phonegif%403-823-1331; www.traveldrumheller.com; 60 1st Ave W, Drumheller; icon-hoursgifh9am-9pm) At the foot of the T rex. The entrance to the body of the beast is in the same building.

take-a-break5Take a Break

Stop by Ivy's Awesome Kitchen & Bistro (www.ivysawesomekitchen.com; 35 3rd Ave West, Drumheller; mains $8-12; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm; icon-veggifv) for home-style cooking.

top-tipoTop Tip

Go on a dinosaur hunt – there are over 30 colorful dino sculptures around town.

293667572jpg
Royal Tyrrell Museum of Palaeontology | JEFF WHYTE / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A small town set amid Alberta's enigmatic badlands, Drumheller is serious about its paleontology. Add in the museums in nearby East Coulee and the ghosts of Wayne, and you've got a full itinerary.

Palaeontology Museum

The fantastic Royal Tyrrell Museum of Palaeontology (icon-phonegif%403-823-7707; www.tyrrellmuseum.com; 1500 North Dinosaur Trail, Midlands Provincial Park, Drumheller; adult/child $18/10; icon-hoursgifh9am-9pm mid-May–Aug, 10am-5pm Sep, 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Oct–mid-May; icon-familygifc) is one of the preeminent dinosaur museums on the planet. Look for the skeleton of 'Hell-Boy,' a new dinosaur discovered in 2005, and 'Black Beauty,' a 67-million-year-old T-rex rearing its head into the sky. Unlike some other dinosaur exhibits, there's nothing dusty or musty about this super-modern place. Children will love the interactive displays.

World's Largest Dinosaur

In a town filled with dinosaurs, this T rex (60 1st Ave W, Drumheller; $3; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm; icon-familygifc) is the king of them all. Standing 26m high above a parking lot, it dominates the Drumheller skyline. You can climb the 106 steps to the top for great views.

Dinosaur Trail & Hoodoo Drive

The scenic 48km Dinosaur Trail loop runs northwest from Drumheller and includes Hwys 837 and 838.

The loop takes you past Midland Provincial Park, where you can take a self-guided hike, and past the vast Horsethief Canyon and its picturesque views. Glide peacefully across the Red Deer River on the free, cable-operated Bleriot Ferry, which has been running since 1913. On the west side of the valley, pause at Orkney Viewpoint, which overlooks the area's impressive canyons.

The 25km Hoodoo Drive starts about 18km southeast of Drumheller on Hwy 10. Along this drive you'll find the best examples of hoodoos – weird, eroded, mushroom-like columns of sandstone rock – between Rosedale and Lehigh; there's also an interpretive trail.

This area was once the site of a prosperous coal-mining community; the historic Atlas Coal Mine (icon-phonegif%403-822-2220; www.atlascoalmine.ab.ca; East Coulee; $10, tours $20-25; icon-hoursgifh9:45am-5pm Sep-Jun, to 7:30pm Jul-Aug) and East Coulee School Museum (icon-phonegif%403-822-3970; www.ecsmuseum.ca; 359 2nd Ave, East Coulee; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm) are both worth a stop. Take the side trip on Hwy 10X from Rosedale to the small community of Wayne (population 27) with its famous and supposedly haunted saloon.

TOP EXPERIENCE

National Music Centre

Looking like a whimsical copper castle, this fabulous new museum will take you on a ride through Canada's musical history.

15-nat-music-centre-te-bo-can1jpg

Great For…

Ddb

dont-missyDon't Miss

The guitar Guess Who used to record 'American Woman.'

need-to-know8Need to Know

National Music Centre ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-543-5115; http://studiobell.ca; 850 4 St SE; adult/child $18/11; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Wed-Sun)

take-a-break5Take a Break

You won't want to take a break – but if you do, there's an excellent cafe on-site.

top-tipoTop Tip

If you're looking for cool and very-Canadian souvenirs, be sure to stop in at the gift shop.

With studio space and numerous theaters, the National Music Centre is all about getting Canadian artists heard. Check the website for who's playing.

576570932jpg
JEWHYTE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Get Musical

Who wouldn't want to try out a drum kit, strum an electric guitar or step into a sound-recording room to sing your heart out? You can also create your own instruments here with rubber bands string, pegs and other unlikely objects. And be sure to find your groove in the Body Phonic Room, where your moves control the tunes.

The Collection

With over 2000 musical artifacts, you're certain to find something to wow you. You'll find everything from Elton John's 'songwriting' piano to Shania Twain's dresses and the Rolling Stone's mobile recording studio. Keep your eye's peeled for the Electronic Sackbut, a Canadian forerunner to 1970s synthesizers that is being restored and cloned for visitors to test out.

The Canadian Hall of Fame is especially impressive. From Leonard Cohen to Justin Bieber, Neil Young, Drake, Gordon Lightfoot, Diana Krall and Sarah McLachlan, Canadian's sure know how to hold a tune.

Sound Sculpture

As you wander into the Skywalk between the museum and the neighboring King Eddie building, you may wonder where the whistling and humming is coming from. Look up and you'll see 16 piano pieces hanging from the ceiling. These are instruments that were destroyed in Calgary's 2013 flood, repurposed and solar powered to fill the air with music once again.

The Tragically Hip

If you're not Canadian, you're forgiven for not knowing The Tragically Hip – almost. Formed in the 80s in Kingston, Ontario, they sell out stadiums across the country. Their lyrics tell stories linked to Canada's geography and history and their unique sound is often quoted as being 'distinctly Canadian.' With 14 studio albums, two live albums and 54 singles under their belt, along with 14 Juno Awards and nine number-one albums, it's not surprising that they figure prominently in the National Music Centre.

When Gord Downie, the Hip's singer and songwriter, was diagnosed with brain cancer in 2016, the country went into mourning. One final tour across the country included a Canada Day performance at the then-brand-new Centre.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village

With original buildings and authentic characters, experience first hand what life was like for Ukrainian immigrants on the prairies.

15-ukranian-cult-vill-te-bo-can1jpg

Great For…

vhr

dont-missyDon't Miss

Hopping on a free horse-drawn-wagon ride from Thursday to Monday during summer.

need-to-know8Need to Know

Ukrainian Cultural Heritage Village (icon-phonegif%780-662-3640; www.history.alberta.ca/ukrainianvillage; adult/child/family $15/10/40; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm May-Sep)

take-a-break5Take a Break

Before you leave, visit the kiosk for some of the best pierogi and cabbage rolls this side of Lviv.

top-tipoTop Tip

Wear good walking shoes – these are turn-of-the-century dirt roads.

84659637jpg
PETER CARROLL / GETTY IMAGES ©

The People

By visiting the Heritage Village, you are paying homage to the 250,000 Ukrainian immigrants who came to Canada between 1892 and 1930. Many settled in central Alberta, where the landscape reminded them of the snowy steppes of home.

The interpreters you encounter here aren't just staff in costume; they perform in roles of real-life immigrants from Ukraine and go about their day as if they really are the hotelier, the farmer, the schoolteacher or the blacksmith. Some speak only Ukrainian; others speak English with heavy accents. They know the history and family tree of the person they've assumed and won't – at any cost – break character. Expect to be asked if you'd like a hotel room or if your horse needs shoes. Be sure to visit the very new immigrants in their burdei (sod house) to see what they've brought with them and how they're beginning to farm the land. If you don't speak Ukrainian, be prepared for lots of charades!

177830886jpg
Dancers outside St Vladimir’s Orthodox Church | PETER CARROLL / GETTY IMAGES ©

The Buildings

The buildings are all original, moved here from various towns in Alberta, refurbished to their original state and filled with authentic furnishings. Around 35 are set out like a genuine village, with more added each year. Highlights include a sod house, three Byzantine churches, a hotel, a grain elevator and a schoolhouse.

When the 1920s school was first renovated, students who had once attended were invited to visit. Now in their 80s, these students sat in their original seats and felt the time-warp effect of the painstakingly accurate renovation.

What's Nearby

Virtually across the road, Elk Island National Park (www.pc.gc.ca/elkisland; adult/6-16yr/senior $7.80/3.90/6.80, campsites & RV sites $25.50, campfire permits $8.80; icon-hoursgifhdawn-dusk) contains the highest density of wild hoofed animals in the world after the Serengeti; many come here to see the resident wild bison. The wood bison live entirely in the quieter southern portion of the park (which is cut in two by Hwy 16), while the plains bison inhabit the north. Most of the infrastructure lies in the north, too, around Astotin Lake. Here you’ll find a campground, a nine-hole golf course (its clubhouse has a restaurant), a beach and a boat launch. Four of the park’s 11 hiking trails lead away from the lakeshore through trademark northern Albertan aspen parkland – a kind of natural intermingling of the prairies and boreal forests.

Calgary

Calgary will surprise you with its beauty, cool eateries, nightlife beyond honky-tonk, and long, worthwhile to-do list. Calgarians aren’t known for their modesty; it’s their self-love and can-do attitude that got them through disastrous flooding in 2013 and, in 2016, saw them helping residents of wildfire-stricken Fort McMurray with unquestioning generosity. We mustn’t forget – Calgary also hosted the highly successful 1988 Winter Olympics, elected North America’s first Muslim mayor, and throws one of Canada’s biggest parties, the Calgary Stampede.

1Sights

Glenbow MuseumMuseum

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-777-5506; www.glenbow.org; 130 9th Ave SE; adult/child/family $16/10/40; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun, closed Mon Oct-Jun)

With an extensive permanent collection and an ever-changing array of traveling exhibitions, the impressive Glenbow has plenty for the history buff, art lover and pop-culture fiend to ponder. Temporary exhibits are often daring, covering contemporary art and culture. Permanent exhibits bring the past to life with strong historic personalities and lots of voice recordings. Hang out in a tipi, visit a trading post and walk through the railcar of a train.

Calgary TowerNotable Building

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-266-7171; www.calgarytower.com; 101 9th Ave SW; adult/youth $18/9; icon-hoursgifhobservation gallery 9am-9pm Sep-Jun, to 10pm Jul-Aug)

This 1968 landmark tower is an iconic feature of the Calgary skyline, though it has now been usurped by numerous taller buildings and is in danger of being lost in a forest of skyscrapers. There is little doubt that the aesthetics of this once-proud concrete structure have passed into the realm of kitsch, but, love it or hate it, the slightly phallic 191m structure is a fixture of the downtown area.

The views from the top are fantastic, and, copying Seattle's Space Needle, there's a revolving restaurant.

Prince's Island ParkPark

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )

For a little slice of Central Park in the heart of Cowtown, take the bridge over to this island, with grassy fields made for tossing Frisbees, bike paths and ample space to stretch out. During the summer months, you can catch a Shakespeare production in the park's natural grass amphitheater or check out the Folk Music Festival in July. You'll also find the upscale River Island restaurant here.

Watch yourself around the river. The water is cold and the current is strong and not suitable for swimming. The bridge to the island from downtown is at the north end of 3rd St SW, near the Eau Claire Market shopping area.

2Activities

Rapid RentCycling

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.outlawsports.ca; Barclay Pde SW; bikes/rollerblades/helmet per day from $30/15/5; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, to 5pm Sun)

Rents bikes, junior bikes, child trailers and rollerblades.

Olympic OvalIce Skating

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-220-7954; www.ucalgary.ca/oval; University of Calgary; adult/child/family $7/5/18.50; icon-hoursgifhJul–mid Mar)

Get the Olympic spirit at the University of Calgary, where you can go for a skate on Olympic Oval. Used for the speed-skating events at the Olympics, it offers public skating on the long track and has skates available to rent, as well as mandatory helmets. See the website for current schedules.

TTours

Calgary Walking ToursCultural

(icon-phonegif%855-620-6520; www.calgarywalks.com; adult/youth/under 7yr $18/15/free)

Join the two-hour Core City tour to learn about the architecture, history and culture of various buildings, sculptures, gardens and hidden nooks.

Hammerhead ToursCultural

(icon-phonegif%403-590-6930; www.hammerheadtours.com; half-day city tours $58)

Join a half-day tour of the city or a very full day tour to destinations like Drumheller, Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump or Lake Louise. Multiday and 'create-your-own' tours are also available.

Get Your Cowboy On

Smithbilt Hats ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-244-9131; www.smithbilthats.com; 1103 12th St SE; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8am-4:30pm Fri)

Alberta Boot Co ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-263-4605; www.albertaboot.com; 50 50th Ave SE; icon-hoursgifh9am-6pm Mon-Sat)

5Eating

Al Forno Cafe & BakeryCafe$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-454-0308; www.alforno.ca; 222 7th St SW; mains $8-15; icon-hoursgifh7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun)

This ultra-modern, super-comfortable cafe is the kind of place you'll want to hang out all day. Beer on tap, carafes of wine and excellent coffee won't discourage you from lingering, nor will magazines, comfy sofas or window seats. With pastas, flatbreads, salads, soups and panini, all homemade, it's difficult to leave room for the amazing cakes, tarts and biscuits.

(Think espresso shortbread with caramelized sugar and chocolate cream puffs.) Breakfasts tempt you with eggs Bennie, French toast and even a bacon sandwich.

1886 Buffalo CafeBreakfast$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 187 Barclay Pde SW; icon-hoursgifh6am-3pm Mon-Fri, from 7am Sat & Sun)

This is a true salt-of-the-earth diner in the high-rise-dominated city center. Built in 1911 and the only surviving building from the lumber yard once here, the interior feels fairly authentic with family photos and antique clocks. This is a ketchup on the table, unlimited coffee refills kind of place famous for its brunches and especially its huevos rancheros.

MarketCanadian$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-474-4414; www.marketcalgary.ca; 718 17th Ave SW; mains lunch $12-17, dinner $8-20; icon-hoursgifh11:30am-late)

With an earthy yet futuristic feel, award-winning Market has gone a step further in the fresh-local trend. Not only does it bake its own bread, it butchers and cures meat, makes cheese and grows 16 varieties of heirloom seeds year-round. As if that weren't enough, it's then all whipped into meals that are scrumptious and entirely satisfying.

Look for dishes like truffle buttermilk chicken wings, hand-rolled pasta or duck tacos.

CatchSeafood$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-206-0000; www.catchrestaurant.ca; 100 8th Ave SW; mains $17-27; icon-hoursgifh11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri, 5-10pm Mon-Sat)

The problem for any saltwater fish restaurant in landlocked Calgary is that if you're calling it fresh, it can't be local. Overcoming the conundrum, the lively, ever-popular Catch, situated in an old bank building on Stephen Ave Walk, flies its 'fresh catch' in daily from both coasts (British Columbia and the Maritimes).

You can work out the carbon offsets for your lobster, crab and oysters in the ground-floor oyster bar or the posh dining room upstairs.

Ox and AngelaTapas$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-457-1432; www.oxandangela.com; 528 17th Ave SW; tapas $4-14; icon-hoursgifh11:30am-late)

Re-creating Spain in modern Calgary isn't an obvious go-to but Ox and Angela has somehow managed it with colorful tiles and delicious tapas. Order piecemeal from a menu of Manchego cheese, tortilla (Spanish omelette) and cured jamón serrano.

Model MilkCanadian$$$

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-265-7343; www.modelmilk.ca; 108 17th Ave SW; mains $19-32; icon-hoursgifh5pm-1am)

Model Milk's revolving menu changes before the ink's even dry, but your choices are always great at the former dairy turned hip restaurant. Look for favorites like grits and sausage or chicken with buttermilk waffles and peanut coleslaw. More certain is the excellent service and the cool ambience that comes with an open kitchen and communal seating.

6Drinking & Nightlife

ProofCocktail Bar

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-246-2414; www.proofyyc.com; 1302 1st St SW; icon-hoursgifh4pm-1am)

This place might be small but the bar is big enough to require a library ladder. Big leather chairs and lots of metal and wood highlight craftsmanship – as do the expertly created cocktails. The menu itself is a beautiful thing to behold and the drinks look so stunning, you almost don't want to drink them. Almost.

Analog CoffeeCoffee

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.fratellocoffee.com; 740 17th Ave SW; coffees $2-5; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm)

The third-wave coffee scene is stirring in Calgary, led by companies like Fratello, which runs this narrow, overflowing hipster-ish 17th Ave cafe, which displays the beans of the day on a clipboard and has rows of retro vinyl spread along the back wall.

Barley MillPub

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-290-1500; www.barleymillcalgary.com; 201 Barclay Pde SW; icon-hoursgifh11am-late)

Built in a 1900s style, with the original distillery's lumber used for the top floor and an actual waterwheel churning outside, the Barley Mill draws crowds for its pub grub, long lineup of draught beers and a well-stocked bar. Two patios for when it's warm and a big stone fireplace for when it's not keeps it busy in every season.

3Entertainment

Broken CityLive Music

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%403-262-9976; www.brokencity.ca; 613 11th Ave SW; icon-hoursgifh11am-2am)

There's something on stage here most nights – everything from jazz jams to hip-hop, along with comedy and quiz nights. The rooftop patio is ace in the summer, and the small but well-curated menu keeps you happy whether you're after a steak sandwich or vegan cauliflower wings.

Epcor Centre for the Performing ArtsTheater

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.epcorcentre.org; 205 8th Ave SE)

This is the hub for live theater in Calgary. With four theaters and one of the best concert halls in North America, here you can see everything from ballet to Bollywood.

Calgary FlamesSpectator Sport

(icon-phonegif%403-777-0000; http://flames.nhl.com)

Archrival of the Edmonton Oilers, the Calgary Flames play ice hockey from October to April at the Saddledome ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Stampede Park). Make sure you wear red to the game and head down to 17th Ave afterwards, or the 'Red Mile,' as they call it during play-offs.

8Information

Tourism Calgary ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.tourismcalgary.com; 101 9th Ave SW; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm) Operates a visitor center in the base of the Calgary Tower. The staff will help you find accommodations. Information booths are also available at both the arrivals and departures levels of the airport.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Calgary International Airport (YYC; www.ycc.com) is about 15km northeast of the center off Barlow Trail, a 25-minute drive away.

Bus

Greyhound Canada ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%bus station 403-263-1234, ticket purchase 800-661-8747; www.greyhound.ca; 850 16th St SW) has services to Banff ($29, 1¾ hours) and Drumheller ($38, 1¾ hours). Canmore and Banff ($65, 2¼ hours, eight daily) are served by Brewster (www.brewster.ca).

Car & Motorcycle

All the major car-rental firms are represented at the airport and downtown.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Sundog Tours (icon-phonegif%403-291-9617; www.sundogtours.com; adult/child one-way $15/8) runs every half-hour from around 8:30am to 9:45pm between all the major downtown hotels and the airport. You can also take bus 300 from the city center all the way to the airport ($3, 45 minutes). A taxi to the airport costs about $35.

Car & Motorcycle

Parking in downtown Calgary is an expensive nightmare. Luckily, downtown hotels generally have garages. Outside the downtown core, parking is free and easy to find.

Calgary has Canada's largest fleet of car2go (www.car2go.com) smart cars, making it a super convenient way to get around town and even to the airport.

Calgary Transit

Calgary Transit (www.calgarytransit.com) is efficient and clean. You can choose from the Light Rapid Transit (LRT) rail system, aka the C-Train, and ordinary buses. One fare ($3) entitles you to transfer to other buses or C-Trains. The C-Train is free in the downtown area along 7th Ave between 10th St SW and 3rd St SE. If you're going further or need a transfer, buy your ticket from a machine on the C-Train platform. Most buses run at 15- to 30-minute intervals daily. There is no late-night service.

Taxi

For a cab, call Checker Cabs (icon-phonegif%403-299-9999; www.thecheckergroup.com) or Calgary Cabs (icon-phonegif%403-777-1111). Fares are $3 for the first 150m, then 20¢ for each additional 150m.

Saskatoon

Saskatoon is full of hidden treasures. Don't be misled by first appearances – head into the downtown core and inner neighborhoods to get a sense of this vibrant city. The majestic South Saskatchewan River winds through downtown, offering beautiful, natural diversions.

Saskatoon knows how to heat up cold winter days and short summer nights with a proud heritage of local rock and country music and a vibrant live-music scene.

1Sights

Western Development MuseumMuseum

(WDM; icon-phonegif%306-931-1910; www.wdm.ca; 2610 Lorne Ave S; adult/child $10/4; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm; icon-parkgifp)

The flagship Saskatoon branch of the province's Western Development Museum is a faithful re-creation of Saskatoon the boom town, c 1910. Inside Canada's longest indoor street, you can roam through the town's many buildings, from a dentist's office straight out of a horror film to the pharmacy, the walls of which are lined with hundreds of vintage concoctions. There are trains, tractors, buggies, sleighs and a jail. It's about 4km south of downtown.

Remai ModernGallery

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-975-7610; www.remaimodern.org; Spadina Cres)

A huge new attraction that anchors River Landing, Remai Modern will house the collection from the now-closed Mandel Art Gallery. The stunning building will also have regular rotating special exhibitions after it opens in 2017.

70178212jpg
Remai Arts Centre | SCOTT PROKOP / SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Meewasin ValleyNature Reserve

(www.meewasin.com)

The Meewasin Valley, formed by the South Saskatchewan's wide swath through the center of town, is named for the Cree word for 'beautiful'. Mature trees populate the riverbanks, while sections of the 60km Meewasin Trail, extend from downtown paths, winding through forests and along the riverbank. Popular with walkers, cyclists and wandering travelers, picnic areas line the trails. Further north, Mendel Island is home to abundant wildlife.

The informative Meewasin Valley Interpretive Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-665-6887; www.meewasin.com; 402 3rd Ave S) was closed in 2016 due to funding problems. Most hope it will reopen. The website has downloadable maps and info.

520756037jpg
Meewasin Valley, Saskatoon | SPROKOP / GETTY IMAGES ©

TTours

Shearwater Boat CruisesBoating

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%888-747-7572; www.shearwatertours.com; Spadina Cres E; adult/child from $24/15; icon-hoursgifhTue-Sun May-Sep)

Open-top boats cruise the river all summer long. Ponder the bridges while enjoying a cool drink from the bar; Friday sunset cruises are popular. The dock is near the University Bridge.

5Eating

Grazing GoatFusion$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-952-1136; www.thegrazinggoatgoodeats.com; 210 20th St W; mains lunch $11-15, dinner $18-28; icon-hoursgifh11:30am-2pm & 5pm-midnight Tue-Sat)

A funky and creative bare-brick restaurant and lounge on the revitalized 20th St strip in Riversdale. The eclectic menu personifies a farm-to-table ethos. There are numerous small-plate and sharing choices that go well with the long (and superb) cocktail and beer list.

Truffles BistroCanadian$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-373-7779; www.trufflesbistro.ca; 230 21st St E; mains $24-32; icon-hoursgifh5-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2:30pm & 5-10pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)

Smooth jazz sets up the classic ambience of this modern bistro. Fine wines accompany beautifully presented, delightfully simple preparations of steak frites (steak and fries), pork tenderloin and local Lake Diefenbaker trout. The menu changes with the seasons. Excellent desserts.

Ayden Kitchen and BarCanadian$$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-954-2590; www.aydenkitchenandbar.com; 265 3rd Ave S; mains $20-40; icon-hoursgifh11:30am-2pm & 5:30-10pm Mon-Fri, 5:30-10pm Sat)

Saskatoon's restaurant-of-the-moment works magic with local produce and other seasonal specialties. Chef Dale MacKay and his co-chef and butcher Natan Guggenheimer are stars on the Canadian food scene. You never know what surprises they have in store at this unpretentious downtown bistro. Book ahead.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Congress Beer HousePub

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-974-6717; www.congressbeerhouse.com; 215 2nd Ave S; icon-hoursgifh11am-1am)

This huge pub has a bit of a ski-lodge vibe. Seating is at tables and in comfy leather booths. As you'd surmise, the beer list is the best in the province, with numerous choices of hard-to-get brews. The food options are excellent, with creative takes on burgers and other pub faves (mains $10 to $20).

Hose and HydrantPub

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-477-3473; www.hoseandhydrant.com; 612 11th St E; icon-hoursgifh11:30am-11pm)

A fun pub in a converted fire station. Enjoy tables on a patio and deck with mellow side-street outlooks.

Drift Sidewalk Cafe & Vista LoungeLounge

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-653-2256; www.driftcafe.ca; 339 Ave A S; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat)

Split personalities mark this hip Riversdale spot. The cafe serves crepes, sandwiches and a long list of varied snacks through the day; enjoy a coffee at a table outside. The lounge is sleeker and has a fun cocktail list, many with house-made libations. It also serves mid-priced international dishes.

3Entertainment

Persephone TheatreTheater

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-384-7727; www.persephonetheatre.org; 100 Spadina Cres E; ticket prices vary)

This perennial theatrical standout has excellent new quarters in the Remai Arts Centre at River Landing. Comedy, drama and musicals are all regulars.

Gordon Tootoosis Nīkānīwin TheatreTheater

(GTNT; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-933-2262; www.gtnt.ca; 914 20th St W; icon-hoursgifhFeb-Jun)

Contemporary stage productions by Canadian First Nations, Métis and Inuit artists highlight cultural issues through comedy and drama.

Buds on BroadwayLive Music

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-244-4155; http://buds.dudaone.com; 817 Broadway Ave; icon-hoursgifh11:30am-late)

Classic blues and old-time rock and roll are the standards here in this beer-swilling joint.

Broadway TheatreCinema

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-652-6556; www.broadwaytheatre.ca; 715 Broadway Ave; adult/child $10/5)

This historic Nutana cinema shows cult classics, art-house films and occasional local live performances. Regularly screens South Park: Bigger, Longer and Uncut; sing along with 'Blame Canada'!

8Information

Planet S (www.planetsmag.com) Irreverent and free biweekly newspaper with good entertainment listings.

Tourism Saskatoon ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-242-1206, 800-567-2444; www.tourismsaskatoon.com; 202 4th Ave N; icon-hoursgifh8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has local and regional info.

8Getting There & Away

Air

John G Diefenbaker International Airport (YXE; icon-phonegif%306-975-8900; www.yxe.ca; 2625 Airport Dr) is 5km northeast of the city, off Idylwyld Dr and Hwy 16. WestJet and Air Canada have services to major Canadian cities.

Bus

STC (www.stcbus.com) covers the province extensively from the bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-933-8000; 50 23rd St E); buses head to Winnipeg ($134, 12½ hours, one daily).

Train

Saskatoon's train station (Chappell Dr) is 8km southwest from downtown; the thrice-weekly VIA Rail Canadian stops here on its Vancouver–Toronto run.

8Getting Around

A taxi to the airport or train station costs about $20. Blueline Taxi (icon-phonegif%306-653-3333; www.unitedgroup.ca) is easily reached.

Bike Doctor ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-664-8555; www.bikedoctor.ca; 623 Main St; rentals per day from $60) Rents bikes.

Saskatoon Transit ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%360-975-7500; www.transit.saskatoon.ca; adult/child $3/2.25) Runs city buses, which converge on the transit hub of 23rd St E (between 2nd and 3rd Aves N).

Winnipeg

Winnipeg surprises. Rising above the prairie, it's a metropolis where you least expect it. Cultured, confident and captivating, it's more than just a pit stop on the Trans-Canada haul, but a destination in its own right, with a couple of world-class museums and a wonderfully diverse dining scene.

1Sights

Canadian Museum for Human RightsMuseum

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-289-2000; www.humanrightsmuseum.ca; Waterfront Dr & Provencher Blvd; adult/7-17yr/student $18/9/14; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Thu-Tue, to 9pm Wed)

Housed in a stunning contemporary building designed by American architect Antoine Predock, this terrific museum explores human rights issues as they relate to Canada, its culture and the rest of the world through the medium of striking interactive displays, videos, art and more. Exhibits don't shy away from sensitive subjects, such as the internment of Canadian-Japanese during WWII and Aboriginal children forced into residential schools as recently as the 1990s, and the Holocaust and Holodomor are given sensitive treatment.

On a high-profile site near Provencher Bridge, this is the first national museum outside of Ottawa. Symbolism abounds, with an enormous glass cloud wrapping around the northern facade, modeled in the image of five dove wings wrapping one over the other. Shimmy up the Israel Asper Tower of Hope in the elevator for an excellent view of Winnipeg.

555165437jpg
Canadian Museum for Human Rights | KEN GILLESPIE / GETTY IMAGES ©

Forks National Historic SiteHistoric Site

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-957-7618; www.theforks.com; icon-familygifc)

In a beautiful riverside setting, modern amenities for performances and interpretive exhibits in this park outline the area's history as the meeting place of Aboriginal people for centuries.

The rivers routinely overflow during spring runoff and flooded pathways are not uncommon, an event as exciting as it is dangerous. Follow the waterways with a canoe from Splash Dash ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-783-6633; www.splashdash.ca; adult/child $11/9; icon-hoursgifh10am-sunset May-Oct). Kids can go nuts in the heritage-themed playground, the Variety Heritage Adventure Park.

Winnipeg Art GalleryGallery

(WAG; GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-786-6641; www.wag.ca; 300 Memorial Blvd; adult/child $12/6; icon-hoursgifh11am-5pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, to 9pm Thu)

This ship-shaped gallery plots a course for contemporary Manitoban and Canadian artists, including the world's largest collection of Inuit work, alongside a permanent collection of European Renaissance art. Temporary exhibits include artworks by Chagall and Karel Funk, and serpentinite carvings by internationally successful Inuit carver Oviloo Tunnillie.

St-Boniface MuseumMuseum

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-237-4500; http://msbm.mb.ca; 494 Ave Taché; adult/6-17yr/student $6/4.50/5.50; icon-hoursgifh10am-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun)

A mid-19th-century convent is Winnipeg's oldest building and the largest oak-log construction on the continent. The museum inside focuses on the establishment of St-Boniface, the birth of the Métis nation, and the 3000km journey of the first of the Grey Nuns, who arrived here by canoe from Montréal. Artifacts include pioneer furniture and tools, First Nations' beadwork and weaponry, and the coffin used to transport the body of Louis Riel after his execution.

Manitoba MuseumMuseum

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-956-2830; www.manitobamuseum.ca; 190 Rupert Ave; adult/child from $11/9; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm late May-Sep, reduced hours rest of year; icon-familygifc)

Nature trips through the subarctic, history trips into 1920s Winnipeg, cultural journeys covering the past 12,000 years – if it happened in Manitoba, it's here. Amid the superb displays are a planetarium and an engaging science gallery. One exhibit shows what Churchill was like as a tropical jungle, a mere 450 million years ago, while a replica of the Nonsuch, the 17th-century ship that opened up the Canadian west to trade, is another highlight.

Louis Riel

Born in 1844 on the Red River near today's Winnipeg, Louis Riel became a leader of the Métis – like him, people of mixed Aboriginal and European backgrounds. He battled for their rights, and helped lead the Red River Rebellion, which gave the Métis political power but led to his exile in the US. Riel eventually returned to Canada; in 1885 he was tried for treason and hanged.

The third Monday of February is a provincial holiday in Riel's honor. You can find numerous Riel legacies in Manitoba and Saskatchewan. Riel House ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-257-1783; www.parkscanada.ca/riel; 330 River Rd; adult/child $4/2; icon-hoursgifh10am-5pm Jul & Aug) is his birthplace and the family house where he was taken after his execution, and his grave is at St-Boniface Basilica ( GOOGLE MAP ; 151 Ave de la Cathédrale).

Try to catch a performance of the seasonal play, Trial of Louis Riel ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%306-728-5728; www.rielcoproductions.com; 2445 Albert St, Royal Saskatchewan Museum; adult/child $20/10; icon-hoursgifhJul & Aug), which dramatizes his trial for treason.

TTours

Historic Exchange District Walking ToursWalking

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-942-6716; www.exchangedistrict.org; Old Market Sq; adult/child $10/free; icon-hoursgifh9am-4:30pm Mon-Sat early May-Aug)

Entertaining themed and history tours departing from Old Market Sq. Book in advance.

SquarePeg ToursWalking

(icon-phonegif%204-898-4678; www.squarepegtours.ca; adult/child from $12/8)

Numerous entertaining and historically themed walking tours – including the popular 'Murder, Mystery & Mayhem' and 'Pestilence, Shamans & Doctors' – depart on regular schedules all summer. 'Symbols, Secrets & Sacrifices Under the Golden Boy' is a much-acclaimed look at the hidden meanings in the capital, while the 'Naughty Bawdy Tour' of the Exchange District is for over-18s only.

Routes on the RedTours

(www.routesonthered.ca)

Offers thorough, downloadable tours of Winnipeg for walkers, cyclists, drivers and skiers.

5Eating

Forks MarketMarket$

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.theforks.com; 1 Forks Market Rd; mains $5-12; icon-hoursgifh9:30am-6pm Mon-Thu & Sat, to 9pm Fri; icon-veggifvicon-familygifc)

Gourmet food specialists, vendors selling prepared foods and an array of ethnic food stalls, running the gamut from Japanese tapas, Caribbean and Chilean to hearty Polish and Sri Lankan, are the unbeatable draw here. Enjoy the bounty at tables scattered about inside or picnic by the river outside.

Marion Street EateryCanadian$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-233-2843; www.marionstreeteatery.com; 393 Marion St; mains $12-15; icon-hoursgifh11am-8pm Mon & Tue, 7am-8pm Wed-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun; icon-parkgifpicon-wifigifWicon-veggifv)

With its industrial-chic decor and plenty of room around the horseshoe bar for solo diners, this bustling spot is all about eating well. It specialises in comfort food, from apple whiskey pancake stack for breakfast to the chunky extreme BLT and quite possibly the best mac ‘n’ cheese in Manitoba.

King + BannatyneSandwiches$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-691-9757; www.kingandbannatyne.com; 100 King St; mains from $9; icon-hoursgifh11am-9pm Mon-Sat)

The hand-cut meat sandwiches at this brisk, casual spot verge on sublime. There are only five to choose from (brisket, smoked chicken, slow-roast pork…) with one sole delicious concession to the noncarnivorous: the roast portobello with melted provolone. Get yours with a house pickle, soup of the day or salt-roasted caramel corn. Perfect.

Deer + AlmondFusion$$

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-504-8562; www.deerandalmond.com; 85 Princess St; mains $12-25; icon-hoursgifh11am-3pm & 5-11pm Mon-Sat)

At the most innovative restaurant in the Exchange District, with an ever-changing menu, chef Mandel's daring pairing of ingredients marks him as some kind of mad genius. And yet it all comes together: the wild sockeye and cherries, the Cornish hen and maple chutney…The cocktails and beers don't disappoint either, and you shouldn't leave without trying one of the unusual desserts.

6Drinking & Nightlife

King's Head PubPub

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-957-7710; www.kingshead.ca; 120 King St; icon-hoursgifh11am-2am; icon-wifigifW)

Vaguely British, the gregarious sidewalk tables are the place to be in the Exchange District on a balmy evening. Inside, it's all rough and tumble wood and it can get seriously loud (hint: this is not the venue for a romantic date). Of the pub dishes, the Indian-Canadian crossover (Butter Chicken Poutine) stands out.

Tavern UnitedBar

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-944-0022; 345 Graham Ave; icon-hoursgifhnoon-late)

The rooftop patio is massive, with views across to the MTS Centre. It bustles with a sports-bar vibe and rocks for Jets home games. Glacially slow service on game nights.

3Entertainment

Times Chang(d) High & Lonesome ClubLive Music

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-957-0982; www.highandlonesomeclub.ca; 234 Main St; icon-hoursgifh7pm-late)

Honky-tonk/country/rock/blues weekend bands jam while beer and whiskey flow at this small, rough, raunchy and real throwback. Don't miss the Sunday-night jam.

Royal Winnipeg BalletBallet

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-956-2792; www.rwb.org; Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St)

An excellent international reputation means performances at Centennial Concert Hall are popular.

Manitoba OperaOpera

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-942-7479; www.manitobaopera.mb.ca; Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St; tickets $35-115; icon-hoursgifhNov-Apr)

From classics, such as The Marriage of Figaro, to premieres, such as Massenet Werther.

Winnipeg Symphony OrchestraClassical Music

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-949-3999; www.wso.ca; Centennial Concert Hall, 555 Main St; tickets $20-60; icon-hoursgifhSep-May)

Classical-music performances, as well as appearances by the likes of Jann Arden and Sheena Easton.

Winnipeg JetsIce Hockey

(icon-phonegif%204-987-7825; www.nhl.com/jets; MTS Centre, 260 Hargrave St; icon-hoursgifhSep-Apr)

There's Manitoba mania for the Jets who play at the MTS Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-987-7825; www.mtscentre.ca; 260 Hargrave St). The ice-hockey games are raucous and often sold out; ask around for tickets.

630215402jpg
Ice hockey match between the Winnipeg Jets and the Colorado Avalanche | JONATHAN KOZUB / GETTY IMAGES ©

8Information

Explore Manitoba Centre ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-945-3777; 25 Forks Market Rd; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm) Provincial information center at the Forks; has plenty of info on Winnipeg and the rest of Manitoba.

Millennium Library ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-986-6450; http://wpl.winnipeg.ca/library; 251 Donald St; icon-hoursgifh10am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri & Sat; icon-wifigifW) Free wi-fi and internet computers.

Tourisme Riel ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-233-8343; www.tourismeriel.com; 219 Blvd Provencher; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm) St-Boniface visitor information center that specializes in Francophone attractions.

8Getting There & Away

Air

Winnipeg International Airport (YWG; GOOGLE MAP ; www.waa.ca; 2000 Wellington Ave) has a flash terminal a convenient 10km west of downtown. It has services to cities across Canada, and to major hubs in the US. Regional carriers handle remote destinations, including Churchill.

Bus

Greyhound buses stop at a terminal ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-949-7777; www.greyhound.ca; 2015 Wellington Ave) at Winnipeg International Airport.

Train

VIA Rail's transcontinental Canadian departs Union Station ( GOOGLE MAP ; 123 Main St) three times weekly in each direction. The painfully slow Hudson Bay service to Churchill runs twice a week via Thompson.

8Getting Around

To/From the Airport

A downtown taxi costs around $25; some hotels have free shuttles. Winnipeg Transit bus 15 runs between the airport and downtown every 20 minutes between 5:50am and 12:50am and takes 30 minutes.

Bus

Winnipeg Transit (icon-phonegif%204-986-5700; www.winnipegtransit.com; adult/child $2.65/2) runs extensive bus routes around the area, most converging on Fort St. Get a transfer and use exact change. Its free Downtown Spirit runs three daily routes, connecting the Forks with Portage Ave, the Exchange District and Chinatown.

Car & Motorcycle

Downtown street parking (free after 6pm) and parking lots are plentiful. Break-ins are common at Union Station, so enclosed lots downtown are a better option if you're taking the train.

Water Taxi

See the city from a new perspective on the water bus run by River Spirit ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%204-783-6633; www.splashdash.ca; one way/day pass $3.50/20; icon-hoursgifhnoon-9pm Mon-Wed, to 11pm Thu-Sun Jul & Aug) between the Forks, the Legislature Building, Osborne Village, St-Boniface and the Exchange District.