Northern Panhandle
Southeast Alaska gets serious when you enter the northern half of the Panhandle. The mountains get higher, the glaciers are more numerous, fjords seem steeper and there’s more snow in the winter that lingers on the mountains longer into the summer. You have the current capital and a former one. You have Alaska’s most famous gold rush and two roads that actually go somewhere else. Most of all, the dramatic scenery you witness in the Northern Panhandle leads to great wilderness adventures, whether it’s canoeing across Admiralty Island, kayaking in Glacier Bay or hiking on Mendenhall Glacier.
Sitka
%907 / Pop 8800
It’s not always easy to uncover reminders of Alaska’s 135-year-long dalliance with the Russian Empire – until you dock in Sitka. This sparkling gem of a city, which kisses the Pacific Ocean on Baranof Island’s west shore, is one of the oldest non-native settlements in the state and the former capital of Russian Alaska (when it was known as New Archangel).
The bonus for visitors is that Sitka mixes wonderfully preserved history with outstanding natural beauty. Looming on the horizon, across Sitka Sound, is impressive Mt Edgecumbe, an extinct volcano with a graceful cone similar to Japan’s Mt Fuji. Closer in, myriad small, forested islands turn into beautiful ragged silhouettes at sunset, competing for attention with the snowcapped mountains and sharp granite peaks flanking Sitka to the east. And in town picturesque remnants of Sitka’s Russian heritage are tucked around every corner. It’s like Skagway but with less tourists.
1Sights
1Town Center
oSitka National Historical ParkHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.nps.gov; Lincoln St; 
h6am-10pm) 
F
This mystical juxtaposition of tall trees and totems is Alaska’s smallest national park and the site where the Tlingits were finally defeated by the Russians in 1804.
The mile-long Totem Trail winds it way past 18 totems first displayed at the 1904 Louisiana Exposition in St Louis and then moved to the park. These intriguing totems, standing in a thick rainforest setting by the sea and often enveloped in mist, have become synonymous with the national park and, by definition, the city itself.
Eventually you arrive at the site of the Tlingit fort near Indian River with its outline still clearly visible. You can either explore the trail as a self-guided tour or join a ranger-led ‘Battle Walk.’
Back in 1804, the Tlingits defended their wooden fort for a week. The Russians’ cannons did little damage to the walls of the fort and, when the Russian soldiers stormed the structure with the help of Aleuts, they were repulsed in a bloody battle. It was only when the Tlingits ran out of gunpowder and flint, and slipped away at night, that the Russians were able to enter the deserted fort.
The visitors center (8am to 5pm) displays Russian and indigenous artifacts, and a 12-minute video in the theater provides an overview of the Tlingit–Russian battle. There’s also a workshop where you can observe and talk to native wood-carvers.
oRussian Bishop’s HouseHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-0135; Lincoln St; h9am-5pm) F
East of downtown along Lincoln St, the Russian Bishop’s House is the oldest intact Russian building in Sitka. Built in 1843 by Finnish carpenters out of Sitka spruce, the two-story log house is one of only four surviving examples of Russian colonial architecture in North America. The National Park Service (NPS) has restored the building to its 1853 condition, when it served as a school and residence for the Russian bishop, Innocent (Ivan Veniaminov).
You can wander the ground-floor museum, with its rescued exhibits and short film, at will. Access to the top floor, home to re-created living quarters and the private chapel of Bishop Innocent, is by guide only. Free tours leave on the half-hour.
St Michael’s CathedralCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 240 Lincoln St; adult/child $5/free; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri or by appt)
Built between 1844 and 1848, this church stood for more than 100 years as Alaska’s finest Russian Orthodox cathedral. When a fire destroyed it in 1966, the church had been the oldest religious structure from the Russian era in Alaska. Luckily the priceless treasures and icons inside were saved by Sitka’s residents, who immediately built a replica of their beloved church.
The interior is rich in detail and iconography. Of particular note is the depiction of Our Lady of Sitka rendered by Vladimir Borovikovsky in the 1820s.
Russian CemeteryCEMETERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; h6am-10pm)
Old headstones and Russian Orthodox crosses lurk in the overgrown and quintessentially creepy Russian Cemetery (located at the north end of Observatory St), where the drippy verdure seems poised to swallow up the decaying graves. Rarely will you find a more atmospheric graveyard.
Sheldon Jackson MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 104 College Dr; adult/child $5/free; h9am-4:30pm)
East along Lincoln St on the former campus of Sheldon Jackson College is Sheldon Jackson Museum. The college may be gone, but this fine museum, housed in Alaska’s oldest concrete building (1895), survives. The unusual building is home to a small but excellent collection of artifacts from all of Alaska’s indigenous groups gathered by Dr Sheldon Jackson, a federal education agent, in Alaska in the 1890s.
Among the artifacts is a raven helmet worn by a Tlingit warrior named Katlian in the 1804 Battle of Sitka, along with rescued totem poles dating from between the 1820s and the 1880s.
Sitka Sound Science CenterAQUARIUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.sitkascience.org; 801 Lincoln St; $5; h9am-4pm; 
c)
Sitka’s best children’s attraction is this hatchery and science center. Outside, the facade is being restored to its original appearance. Inside the science center are five aquariums, including the impressive 800-gallon ‘Wall of Water’ and three touch tanks where kids can get their hands wet handling anemones, sea cucumbers and starfish.
Watch feedings on Tuesday and Friday at 2pm. Outside is a working hatchery where tanks are filled with 60,000 salmon fryling.
Castle HillHISTORIC SITE
Walk west on Lincoln St for the walkway to Castle Hill. Kiksadi clan houses once covered the hilltop site, but in 1836 the Russians built ‘Baranov’s Castle’ atop the hill to house the governor of Russian America. It was here, on October 18, 1867, that the official transfer of Alaska from Russia to the USA took place. The castle burned down in 1894. A US administrative building briefly took its place, but was demolished in 1955.
Today the lookout is guarded by old Russian cannons and embellished by informative historical boards.
Sitka Historical MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.sitkahistory.org; 330 Harbor Dr; h9am-5pm)
Within Sitka’s recently rebuilt Harigan Centennial Hall, the town history museum was undergoing a full renovation at last visit. It was due to reopen in late 2017 with plenty of relics from Russian Alaska.
Totem SquareSQUARE
An exposed grassy plaza close to the O’Connell Bridge and ANB Harbor, anchored by the famous Baranov totem topped by a carved image of Alexander Baranov (1790–1818), the founder of both old and modern Sitka. Lower down, a two-headed Russian eagle has also been carved on to the pole. The totem was commissioned in 1942 and fully restored in 2011.
Princess Maksoutoff’s GraveHISTORIC SITE
At the top of Princess Way lies Princess Maksoutoff’s Grave, marking the spot where the wife of Alaska’s last Russian governor is buried. A strategically placed chain-link fence and a bright and shiny sign proclaim this tiny three-grave site as the Lutheran Cemetery. Cynics might postulate that the princess probably lost her status as a bona fide Lutheran when she married the Russian Orthodox governor, but now that she’s a bona fide tourist attraction the Lutherans want her back.
1North of Sitka
Old Sitka State Historical ParkHISTORIC SITE
(Halibut Point Rd)
There are no physical remains of Old Sitka (known historically as the Redoubt), the original Russian settlement in the area, although archaeological digs have unearthed some small treasures. Redoubt, anchored by a wooden fort, stood on this site for three years between 1799 and 1802 before it was destroyed by angry Tlingit warriors. A small historical trail with a half-dozen panels tells its short but intriguing story.
The park is accessible on the Ride Sitka red bus. It’s a quarter-mile walk from the last stop (ferry terminal).
1South of Sitka
Alaska Raptor CenterWILDLIFE RESERVE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-8662; www.alaskaraptor.org; 101 Sawmill Creek Rd; adult/child $12/6; h8am-4pm; 
pc) 
S
This is no zoo, or bird show for gawping kids. Rather, think of it more as a raptor hospital and rehab center – and a good one at that. The 17-acre center treats 200 injured birds a year, with its most impressive facility being a 20,000-sq-ft flight-training center that helps injured eagles, owls, falcons and hawks regain their ability to fly.
In the center eagles literally fly past you, only 2ft or 3ft away, at eye level; they are so close you can feel the wind from their beating wings. You can even watch vets treating stricken birds through a two-way glass partition.
The center is the first turning on the left off Sawmill Creek Rd after crossing the Indian River.
Whale ParkPARK
(Sawmill Creek Rd)
If you can’t afford a wildlife cruise, try Whale Park, 4 miles south of downtown, which has a boardwalk and free spotting scopes overlooking the ocean. Best of all is listening to whale songs over the ‘hydrophone.’ Fall is the best time to sight cetaceans; as many as 80 whales – mostly humpbacks – can gather between mid-September and year’s end.
Fortress of the BearANIMAL SANCTUARY
(%907-747-3550; www.fortressofthebear.com; adult/child $10/5)
If you haven’t seen a bear in the wild – or don’t want to – this rescue facility offers an opportunity to observe brown bears that were abandoned as cubs. The walls of the ‘fortress’ are actually wastewater treatment pools left over after the lumber mill near the end of Sawmill Creek Rd closed in 1993.
The setting is a little strange and these are captive bears, but they are incredibly active – swimming, wrestling and just being bears. It’s 5.5 miles south of Sitka. Ride Sitka blue-line buses stop outside every hour.
2Activities
Hiking
Sitka offers superb hiking in the beautiful and tangled forest surrounding the city. A complete hiking guide is available from the USFS Sitka Ranger District office.
Scared of bears, or lacking a walking companion? Sitka Trail Works (www.sitkatrailworks.org), a nonprofit group that raises money for trail improvements, has additional trail information on its website and arranges guided hikes on weekends throughout the summer.
Harbor Mountain TrailHIKING
This trail ascends in a series of switchbacks to alpine meadows, knobs and ridges with spectacular views. It follows the tundra ridge to the free-use shelter between Harbor Mountain and Gavan Hill, where you can pick up Gavan Hill Trail. Plan on spending two to four hours if you are just scrambling through the alpine area above Harbor Mountain Rd.
The trail is reached from Harbor Mountain Rd, one of the few roads in the Southeast providing access to a subalpine area. Head 4 miles northwest from Sitka on Halibut Point Rd to the junction with Harbor Mountain Rd. A parking area and picnic shelter are 4.5 miles up the rough dirt road. Another half-mile further is the parking lot at road’s end, where an unmarked trail begins on the lot’s east side.
Gavan Hill TrailHIKING
Close to town, this popular mountain climb ascends 2500ft over 1.6 miles mainly by the use of wooden staircases. The trail, which breaks into alpine terrain higher up, offers excellent views of Sitka and the surrounding area. From the summit, the adventurous can continue to the peaks of the Three Sisters Mountains.
Gavan Hill is linked to Harbor Mountain Trail. Halfway across the alpine ridge is a free-use emergency shelter available on a first-come, first-served basis; it’s 3 miles from the Gavan Hill trailhead, a hike of three to four hours.
The trailhead and a small parking area are just before the cemetery gate at the end of Baranof St. Camping is good in the trail’s alpine regions, but bring drinking water as it is unavailable above the tree line.
Mosquito Cove TrailHIKING
At the northwest end of Halibut Point Rd, 0.7 miles past the ferry terminal, Starrigavan Recreation Area offers a number of short but sweet trails. One of them, Mosquito Cove Trail, is an easy 1.5-mile loop over gravel and boardwalk, with a little beach-walking as well.
Beaver Lake–Herring Cove LoopHIKING
(c)
Dedicated in 2010, the Herring Cove Trail is a 1.3-mile route that extends north to Beaver Lake Trail, which loops around the lake from Sawmill Creek Campground. Together the two trails make for a 3.6-mile hike from the Herring Cove Trailhead, featuring three waterfalls, outstanding views of the surrounding mountains, and boardwalks that wind through an interesting muskeg.
It begins at the eastern end of Sawmill Creek Rd, and is a popular trail for families.
Mt Verstovia TrailHIKING
This 2.5-mile (one-way) trail is a challenging climb of 2550ft to the ‘shoulder,’ a compact summit that is the final destination for most hikers, although it is possible to continue climbing to the peak of Mt Verstovia, also called Mt Arrowhead (3349ft). The panorama from the shoulder on clear days is spectacular, undoubtedly the area’s best.
The trailhead is 2 miles east of Sitka along Sawmill Creek Rd and is posted across from Jamestown Bay. The Russian charcoal pits (signposted) are reached within a quarter-mile, and shortly after that the trail begins a series of switchbacks. It’s a four-hour round-trip to the shoulder, from where a ridgeline leads north to the peak (another hour each way).
Indian River TrailHIKING
This easy trail is a 4.5-mile walk along a clear salmon stream to Indian River Falls, an 80ft cascade at the base of the Three Sisters Mountains. The hike takes you through typical Southeast rainforest and offers the opportunity to view deer, bald eagles and brown bears (hopefully from a safe distance). Plan on four to five hours round-trip to the falls.
The trailhead is a short walk from the town center, off Sawmill Creek Rd, just east of Sitka National Cemetery. Turn onto Indian River Rd, and go a short way to the end, where you’ll find the parking lot and trailhead.
Paddling
The mini-archipelago of tiny islets that crowd Sitka’s harbor, coupled with the fact that big ferries and cruise ships dock several miles to the north, make the town’s waters ideal for safe kayaking. Just be sure to keep an eye out for motorized fishing and pleasure boats entering and exiting the harbor.
Sitka also serves as the departure point for more adventurous blue-water trips along the protected shorelines of Sitka Sound, Baranof and Chichagof Islands, some of which require water-taxi transfers.
oSitka Sound Ocean AdventuresKAYAKING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-752-0660; www.kayaksitka.com)
Rents kayaks (single/double $75/95 per day) and runs guided trips; its office is a blue bus outside the Harigan Centennial Hall. The great value 2½-hour ‘Harbor & Islands’ paddle (adult/child $79/54) takes you on a voyage through the mini-archipelago that decorates Sitka’s harbor.
Shelikof BayKAYAKING
You can combine a 10-mile paddle from Sitka to Kruzof Island with a 7-mile hike across the island from Mud Bay to Shelikof Bay along Iris Meadows Road Trail (an old logging road). Once on the Pacific Ocean side, you’ll find a beautiful sandy beach for beachcombing and the USFS Shelikof Cabin (%518-885-3639; www.recreation.gov; cabins $50).
On the northern side of Shelikof Bay, 2 miles due north of the Shelikof Cabin, is the North Beach Cabin (cabins $50).
West ChichagofKAYAKING
Chichagof Island’s western shoreline is one of Southeast Alaska’s best blue-water destinations for experienced kayakers. Slocum Arm marks the southern end of a series of straits, coves and protected waterways that shield paddlers from the ocean’s swells and extend over 30 miles north to Lisianski Strait. With all its hidden coves and inlets, the trip is a good two-week paddle.
Unfortunately, the trip often requires other transportation, because few paddlers have the experience necessary to paddle the open ocean around Khaz Peninsula (which forms a barrier between Kruzof Island’s north end and Slocum Arm, the south end of the West Chichagof-Yakobi Wilderness). For most paddlers that means a water-taxi service to take you there.
Travelers with more time and a sense of adventure could continue another 25 miles through Lisianski Strait to the fishing village of Pelican, where the ferry stops twice a month in summer. Such an expedition would require at least two to three weeks.
Whale-Watching
Many companies in Sitka offer boat tours to view whales and other marine wildlife, and most of them swing past St Lazaria Island National Wildlife Refuge, home to 1500 pairs of breeding tufted puffins.
You can often spot whales from shore at Whale Park. The town also has a whale festival in November.
Allen Marine ToursCRUISE
(%907-747-8100; www.allenmarinetours.com; 1512 Sawmill Creek Rd; adult/child $130/84)
Experienced operator with offices in Ketchikan, Juneau and Sitka offering wildlife-focused boat cruises. On the three-hour ‘Sea Otter & Wildlife Quest’ it promises a $100 refund if you don’t see a whale, sea otter or bear!
TTours
Sitka ToursBUS
(%907-747-5800; www.sitkatoursalaska.com)
If you’re only in Sitka for as long as the ferry stopover, don’t despair: Sitka Tours runs one-hour express bus tours and 3½-hour historic tours just for you. The tour bus picks passengers up from and returns them to the ferry terminal, making brief visits to Sitka National Historical Park and St Michael’s Cathedral.
Time is allotted for the obligatory T-shirt shopping.
zFestivals & Events
Sitka Summer Music FestivalMUSIC
(%907-747-6774; www.sitkamusicfestival.org; hJun)
This three-week event in June extends Sitka’s reputation as the Southeast’s cultural center, bringing together professional musicians for chamber-music concerts and workshops.
WhaleFest!CULTURAL
(%907-747-7964; www.sitkawhalefest.org; hearly Nov)
The city stages WhaleFest! during the first weekend of November to celebrate the large fall gathering of humpbacks with whale-watching cruises, lectures, craft shows and more.
4Sleeping
Sitka levies a 12% city and bed tax on all lodging. Two USFS campgrounds are in the area, but neither is close to town. There are three or four comfortable, if bland, chain hotels.
Starrigavan Recreation AreaCAMPGROUND$
(%518-885-3639, reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; Mile 7.8, Halibut Point Rd; tent & RV sites $12-16)
Sitka’s finest campground has 35 sites for three types of campers: RVers, car-and-tenters and backpackers/cyclists. You’re 7 miles north of town, but the coastal scenery is beautiful and nearby is Old Sitka State Historical Park. There are bird- and salmon-viewing decks, several hiking trails and (for mountain bikers) Nelson Logging Rd. Sites can be reserved in advance.
On-site is also an attractive spruce-wood USFS cabin ($70).
Sitka International HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-8661; www.sitkahostel.org; 109 Jeff Davis St; dm/d $24/65; 
W)
Sitka’s typically bohemian hostel is downtown in the historic Tillie Paul Manor, which once served as the town’s hospital. The charismatic building crammed with all sorts of information and mementos features a men’s room with its own kitchen and several women’s rooms, along with a family room, another small kitchen and a lovely sun porch with a mountain view.
Beds are comfortable and are made up with soft flannel sheets. The hostel is locked from 10am to 6pm, but hostel managers are good about greeting late-night arrivals who call ahead.
Sitka HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-3288; www.sitkahotel.com; 118 Lincoln St; d $195-220)
Recently reopened after being upgraded, this handsome wood-paneled structure in the center of town looks like a gold-rush-era building given a style make-over and a few extra coats of paint. Rooms are large if nonfancy (this is Alaska!) and a little beige, the owners are keen to please and there’s the town’s second-best bar and restaurant out front.
Enter via the back door.
Westmark Sitka HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-6241; www.westmarkhotels.com; 330 Seward St; r $224-245; p
iW)
The business traveler’s favorite has 106 rooms and suites, a central location, a fine restaurant and bar with views of the harbor and room service.
This is one of six Westmark hotels run by the Holland America cruise line in Alaska.
Cascade Creek InnINN$$
(%907-747-6804; www.cascadecreekinnandcharters.com; 2035 Halibut Point Rd; r $130-160; W)
Perched right above the shoreline, all 10 rooms in this handsome wooden inn face the ocean and have a private balcony overlooking it. There are four top-floor rooms with kitchenettes. Sure, you’re 2.5 miles north of town, but the inn’s oceanfront deck is worth the ride on the downtown bus.
The inn runs fishing charters and is heavily popular with the fishing set.
Ann’s Gavan Hill B&BB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-8023; www.annsgavanhill.com; 415 Arrowhead St; s/d $80/100; iW)
An easy walk (or two-minute bus ride) from downtown is this Alaskan home, with a wraparound deck that includes two hot tubs. There are six bedrooms with shared baths that are comfortable and equipped with TV and DVD. The proprietor is delightfully informative, and serves up a full breakfast.
Hannah’s B&BB&B$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-8309; www.hannahsbandb.com; 504 Monastery St; s/d $125/135)
The longtime B&B proprietor here believes that if you’re coming to Alaska you’re trying to escape, so there are no phones, no TVs and no computers. What she does have is two beautiful rooms with private baths, microwaves, mini-refrigerators and private entrances. There’s a small continental breakfast.
Aspen Suites HotelHOTEL$$$
(MAP; www.aspenhotelsak.com/sitka; 210 Lake St; ste $259-269; piW)
This new chain has infiltrated several Alaskan cities in the last couple of years, Juneau and Haines among them. The new Sitka offering opened in the summer of 2017 with Aspen’s characteristic selection of businesslike suites complete with kitchenettes, sofas and large bathrooms. There’s also an on-site gym and a surgical level of cleanliness (and newness) throughout.
Totem Square InnHOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-3693; www.totemsquarehotel.com; 201 Katlian St; r/ste $229/279; piW)
This is one of Sitka’s larger hotels, with 68 comfortable rooms featuring the traditional (Alaska Native art and prints on the walls) and the modern (flat-screen TVs, hair dryers and wi-fi). There’s a work-out facility, laundry, business center and free airport shuttle. The rooms overlook either the historic square or a harbor bustling with boats bringing in the day’s catch.
Longliner LodgeBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-7910; www.longlinersitka.com; 485 Katlian St; r/ste $230/300; pW)
In the middle of Katlian’s bustling harbors and canneries sits this newly renamed and rebranded lodge with 10 rooms featuring refrigerators, wet bars, microwaves, cable TV and coffeepots. There are also four suites with kitchenettes, a restaurant (serving guests a full breakfast), a small bar and a seaplane dock.
The place is particularly popular with fishers on chartered trips.
5Eating
oGrandma Tillie’s BakeryBAKERY$
(www.grandmatilliesbakery.com; Sawmill Creek Rd; baked goods $3-8; h6:30am-2pm Wed-Sat)
Pink drive-through bakery located 1 mile east of the town center that is – frankly – worth the walk, let alone the drive, courtesy of its sponge-y fresh savory rolls and rich chewy cookies. We’ll stick our neck out and announce that these are, possibly, the best baked goods in Southeast Alaska.
Highliner CoffeeCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.highlinercoffee.com; 327 Seward St, Seward Sq Mall; light fare under $5; h6am-5pm Mon-Sat, 7am-4pm Sun; W)
At the Highliner they like their coffee black and their salmon wild, which explains why the walls are covered with photos of local fishing boats and political stickers like ‘Invest in Wild Salmon’s Future: Eat One!’. The baked goods are highly edible too.
Sitka Hotel Bar & RestaurantINTERNATIONAL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-3288; 118 Lincoln St; mains $15-29; h11am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9pm Sun)
Wood decor covers the interior of this recently remodeled gathering spot, although, with its open kitchen and charismatic bar, the atmosphere’s far from wooden. Welcome to Sitka’s second-best restaurant – nowhere can yet challenge Ludvig’s – where a casual atmosphere meets the kind of creative food you once had to jump on a plane to Seattle to enjoy. No more!
Mean QueenPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-0616; www.meanqueensitka.com; 205 Harbor Dr; pizzas $18-22; h11am-2pm)
Newish pizza joint trying hard to be hip in a bright modish space on an upstairs floor close to Castle Hill. There’s a pleasant rectangular bar, several booths and plenty of young punters. The thin-crust pizzas come in large shareable sizes.
Beak RestaurantBISTRO$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 2 Lincoln St; small plates $8-12, mains $20-23; h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun)
In the back of the Raven Radio Building is this hip bistro, recently reincarnated and renamed Beak. It’s a great place for a post-kayaking or hiking snack such as salmon chowder and lemony hummus with pita, or alternatively, for those needing dinner, there’s reindeer sausage. Note: there’s a no-tipping policy.
Bayview PubPUB FOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.sitkabayviewpub.com; 407 Lincoln St; sandwiches $12-16; h11am-late)
Head upstairs in the MacDonald Bayview Trading Company Building for the best view from any restaurant in town. The large multifarious interior has numerous nooks set aside for sofa-crashing, playing pool, propping up the bar or eating from a rather mediocre menu of cholesterol-heavy pub-grub favorites. The drinks menu is more promising.
oLudvig’s BistroMEDITERRANEAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-966-3663; www.ludvigsbistro.com; 256 Katlian St; mains $28-40; h4:30-9:30pm Mon-Sat)
Sophistication in the wilderness! Sitka’s boldest restaurant has only seven tables, and a few stools at its brass-and-blue-tile bar. Described as ‘rustic Mediterranean fare,’ almost every dish is local, even the sea salt. If seafood paella is on the menu, order it. The traditional Spanish rice dish comes loaded with whatever fresh seafood the local boats have netted that day.
There’s an equally salubrious wine bar upstairs. Reservations necessary.
6Drinking & Nightlife
oBaranof Island Brewing CoBREWERY
(www.baranofislandbrewing.com; 1209 Sawmill Creek Rd; h2-8pm; c)
Encased in a handsome new taproom since July 2017, the Baranof is a local legend providing microbrews for every pub and bar in town. For the real deal, however, the taproom’s the place. Line up four to six tasters and make sure you include a Halibut Point Hefeweisen and a Redoubt Red Ale.
Families, fear not: it also makes microbrew root beer and serves pizza by the slice.
Back Door CaféCOFFEE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 104 Barracks St; snacks $1-5; h6:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
Enter this small coffeehouse through either Old Harbor Books on Lincoln St or via the…you guessed it…which is off Barracks St. The cafe is as local as it gets with strong, potent joe and fantastic home-baked snacks including pies.
Ludvig’s Wine Bar and GalleryWINE BAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.ludvigsbistro.com; 256 Katlian St; h5-9pm Mon-Sat)
Follow the stairs next to Ludvig’s Bistro up to a parquet-floored art gallery furnished with tall bar tables. You’ll find excellent tapas, homemade ice cream and a diverse wine list. Enjoy live music three times per week and occasional salsa dancing. It’s a great place to have dessert after dinner downstairs or appetizers while you’re waiting for a table.
Pioneer BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 212 Katlian St; h8am-2am)
The ‘P-Bar’ is Alaska’s classic maritime watering hole. The walls are covered with photos of fishing boats and their crews, big fish and a blackboard with messages like ‘Experienced deckhand looking for seine job.’ Don’t ring the ship’s bell over the bar unless you’re ready to buy every crew member a drink. There are booths, a long bar and billiard tables.
3Entertainment
Sheet’ka Kwaan Naa Kahidi DancersDANCE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-7137; 204 Katlian St; adult/child $10/5)
Tlingit dancers perform in the Tlingit Clan House (MAP GOOGLE MAP), next to the Pioneers Home, with half-hour performances oriented around the cruise-ship crowd. The place has excellent acoustics and a beautifully decorated house screen.
New Archangel Russian DancersDANCE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-747-5516; www.newarchangeldancers.com; adult/child $10/5)
Whenever a cruise ship is in port, this troupe of more than 30 dancers in Russian costume materializes onstage at the Harigan Centennial Hall for a half-hour show. A schedule is posted in the hall.
7Shopping
Old Harbor BooksBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 201 Lincoln St; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat)
One of the loveliest bookstores in the Southeast, with a large Alaska section, featured local authors, and the pie-selling Back Door Café adjoining. Browsing heaven.
Weed DudesDISPENSARY
(%907-623-0605; 1321 Sawmill Creek Rd; h10am-8pm)
Two thousand and seventeen proved to be a happy new year for Sitka’s ‘cannassuers’ when the town opened its first recreational pot shop. Located discreetly in an out-of-town strip mall, the dudes at this dispensary sell prerolls, edibles and various cannabis strains.
8Information
INTERNET ACCESS
Using a head tax on cruise-ship passengers, the city of Sitka has set up free wi-fi throughout the downtown area. It can be picked up in most cafes, stores, bars and hotels along Lincoln St and Harbor Dr.
Kettleson Memorial Library (320 Harbor Dr; h10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 1-9pm Sat; W) Next door to Harigan Centennial Hall, this waterfront building has one of the best library views in Alaska. There are 10 computers for internet access, free wi-fi and tables overlooking the harbor.
MEDICAL SERVICES
Sitka Community Hospital (%907-747-3241; 209 Moller Dr) By the intersection of Halibut Point Rd and Brady St.
MONEY
First National Bank of Anchorage (318 Lincoln St; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Downtown, with a 24-hour ATM.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Sitka Information Center (%907-747-5940; www.sitka.org; 104 Lake St; h9am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Ultra-helpful office opposite the Westmark hotel downtown. Also staffs a desk at the Harigan Centennial Hall (%907-747-3225; 330 Harbor Dr; h9am-5pm) when there’s a cruise ship in town.
USFS Sitka Ranger District Office (%907-747-6671, recorded information 907-747-6685; 2108 Halibut Point Rd; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Has information about local trails, camping and USFS cabins. It’s 2 miles north of town. More central is the visitor center at Sitka National Historical Park.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
TRACY ARM-FORDS TERROR WILDERNESS
Some call it Glacier Bay National Park without the extortionate price tag. Tracy Arm, Endicott Arm and Fords Terror are three long, deep fjords that form part of the Tracy Arm-Fords Terror Wilderness, a 653,000-acre preserve where you can spend weeks paddling to a backdrop of glaciers, icebergs and 2000ft granite walls. Tracy Arm is easily visited on a boat trip from Juneau, and outings are around half the price of similar Glacier Bay excursions without any significant drop in the awe-rating.
Sculpted by millennia of ice movement, the fjords are notable for their tidal glaciers. Tracy Arm is fed by the twin Sawyer glaciers. Endicott Arm is backed by the powerful iceberg-dispensing Dawes Glacier. Fords Terror, which branches off the Endicott, is glacier-free, though the steep narrow chasm displays the classic gouging effects of a glacial past.
Equally impressive are the fjords’ granite cliffs. So sheer are they in Tracy Arm that finding a patch of shoreline flat enough to pitch a tent on can be difficult. John Muir compared the cliffs to Yosemite. Some modern visitors suggest that, with their weeping waterfalls and coppery coloration, they are even more impressive.
Kayaking in Tracy Arm is sublime if you’re up for some rough camping and can put up with the regular influx of cruise ships. Experienced kayakers could consider Endicott Arm, a 30-mile fjord created by Dawes and North Dawes Glaciers. Fords Terror is named after a US sailor who found himself battling whirlpools and grinding icebergs when he tried to row out against the incoming tide in 1899. Unless you’re a serious white-water expert, it’s best to leave this aptly named fjord alone.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Sitka Airport (SIT; %907-966-2960) On Japonski Island, 1.5 miles, or a 20-minute walk, west of downtown. The Ride Sitka green line bus runs to the island but stops short of the airport.
Alaska Airlines Flights to/from Juneau (45 minutes) and Ketchikan (one hour).
Harris Aircraft Services (%907-966-3050; www.harrisair.com; Airport Rd) Floatplane air-taxi service to small communities and USFS cabins as well as larger Southeast towns such as Juneau.
CRUISE SHIP
Large cruise ships dock at Halibut Point Marine (Halibut Point Rd), 6 miles north of town. Special cruise-company buses run passengers into town.
Smaller ships dock offshore in Sitka Sound and take passengers into Crescent Harbor in water taxis.
FERRY
The Alaska Marine Highway Ferry Terminal (%907-747-8737; www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs) is 7 miles northwest of town; ferries depart in both directions twice a week to Juneau ($65, nine hours), and once a week to Petersburg ($70, 11 hours).
The once-a-week MV Fairweather ferry cuts travel time to Juneau to 4½ hours.
8Getting Around
BICYCLE
Yellow Jersey Cycle Shop (%907-747-6317; www.yellowjerseycycles.com; 329 Harbor Dr; per 2hr/day $20/25), across the street from the library, rents quality mountain bikes for economical prices.
There’s a paved bike path as far south as Fortress of the Bear on Sawmill Creek Rd. The road north to the ferry terminal has wide verges and is perfectly safe for cycling.
BOAT
For water-taxi service to USFS cabins or kayaking destinations, contact Esther G Sea Taxi (%907-738-6481, 907-747-6481; www.puffinsandwhales.com; 215 Shotgun Alley) or Sitka Sound Ocean Adventures.
BUS
ASitka’s public bus system, Ride Sitka (%907-747-7103; www.ridesitka.com; adult/child $2/1; h6:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri), runs on three lines and serves practically everywhere of interest to visitors. The only downsides: it doesn’t stop at the airport (the last stop is about 0.75 miles short) and it doesn’t run on weekends.
AThe green line does a loop around town. The blue line heads south via Whale Park to the Fortress of the Bear. The red line heads north to the cruise dock and the ferry terminal. Crescent Harbor serves as the terminus for all three lines.
Juneau
%907 / Pop 33,850
Juneau is a capital of contrasts and conflicts. It borders a waterway that never freezes but lies beneath an ice field that never melts. It was the first community in the Southeast to slap a head tax on cruise-ship passengers but still draws more than a million a year. It’s the state capital but since the 1980s Alaskans have been trying to move it. It doesn’t have any roads that go anywhere, but half its residents and its mayor opposed a plan to build one that would.
Welcome to America’s strangest state capital. In the winter it’s a beehive of legislators, their loyal aides and lobbyists locked in political struggles. In summer it’s a launchpad for copious outdoor adventures. Superb hiking starts barely 10 minutes from downtown, a massive glacier calves into a lake 12 miles up the road, and boats and seaplanes take off from the waterfront bound for nearby bear-viewing, ziplining and whale-watching.
Juneau
1Sights
2Activities, Courses & Tours
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
7Shopping
1Sights
1City Center
Mt Roberts TramwayCABLE CAR
(www.mountrobertstramway.com; 490 S Franklin St; adult/child $33/16; h11am-9pm Mon, 8am-9pm Tue-Sun; c)
As far as cable cars go, this tramway is rather expensive for a five-minute ride. But from a marketing point of view its location couldn’t be better. It whisks you right from the cruise-ship dock up 1750ft to the timberline of Mt Roberts, where you’ll find a restaurant, gift shops, a small raptor center and a theater with a film on Tlingit culture.
Or skip all that and just use the tram to access the stunning Mt Roberts alpine area, marked with trails and wildflowers.
In a far better deal, you can hike up the Mt Roberts Trail, spend $10 in the restaurant and then take the tram down for free.
Alaska State MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-465-2901; www.museums.state.ak.us; 395 Whittier St; adult/child $12/free; h9am-5pm; c)
Demolished and rebuilt in a snazzy new $140-million complex in 2016, the result is impressive. Sometimes called SLAM (State Library, Archives and Museum), the museum shares digs with the state archives along with a gift store, the Raven Cafe, an auditorium, a research room and a historical library. The beautifully curated displays catalogue the full historical and geographic breadth of the state, from native canoes to the oil industry.
A smaller suite of rooms hosts revolving art exhibitions.
Last Chance Mining MuseumMUSEUM
(%907-586-5338; 1001 Basin Rd; adult/child $5/free; h9:30am-12:30pm & 3:30-6:30pm)
Amble out to the end of Basin Rd, a beautiful 1-mile walk from the north end of Gastineau Ave, to the former Alaska-Juneau Gold Mining Company complex. It’s now a museum where you can view remains of the compressor house and examine tools of what was once the world’s largest hard-rock gold mine.
There is also a re-created mining tunnel and a 3-D glass map of shafts that shows just how large it was. Nearby is the Perseverance Trail, and combining the museum with a hike to more mining ruins is a great way to spend an afternoon.
Sealaska HeritageCULTURAL CENTRE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-463-4844; www.sealaskaheritage.org; 105 S Seward St; $5; h9am-8pm)
The Sealaska Heritage Institute, founded in 1980 to promote Alaska Native culture, opened this hugely impressive facility in 2015 in the downtown Walter Soboleff building. The whole place is a work of art with much of the detail completed by Tsimshian artist David Boxley. As well as serving as an HQ for the institute, the center contains a full-scale replica of a clan house and a unique exhibit on native masks.
Juneau-Douglas City MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.juneau.org; 114 W 4th St; adult/child $6/free; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4:30pm Sat & Sun; c)
This museum focuses on gold, with interesting mining displays including 3-D photo viewers, timelines, interactive exhibits and the video Juneau: City Built On Gold. If you love to hike in the mountains, the museum’s 7ft-long relief map is the best overview of the area’s rugged terrain.
St Nicholas Russian Orthodox ChurchCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-1023; 326 5th St; admission by donation; hnoon-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)
Of 1893 vintage and etched against the backdrop of Mt Juneau, this diminutive onion-domed church is the oldest Russian Orthodox church in Alaska. Through a small gift shop filled with matryoshkas (nestling dolls) and other handcrafted items from Russia, you enter the church where, among the original vestments and religious relics, a row of painted saints stare down at you. Playing softly in the background are the chants from a service. It’s a small but spiritual place.
Wickersham State Historical SiteHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 213 7th St; h10am-5pm Sun-Thu) F
Overlooking downtown Juneau, this site preserves the 1898 home of pioneer judge and statesman James Wickersham. It’s a steep climb, but the house has some interesting ephemera and fine views.
Governor’s MansionNOTABLE BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 716 Calhoun Ave)
This pillared Governor’s Mansion is Juneau’s most attractive building. Built and furnished in 1912 at a cost of $44,000, the mansion is not open to the public.
Alaska State CapitolHISTORIC BUILDING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 120 4th St; h8:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-4pm Sat & Sun)
One of the US’ more prosaic state capitols, this boxy building went up between 1929 and 1931 and looks more like an overgrown high school than a historic bastion of democracy. Stuffed inside are legislative chambers, the governor’s office, and offices for the hundreds of staff members who arrive in Juneau for the winter legislative session. A self-guided tour pamphlet of the lobby is available.
1Douglas Island
Treadwell Mine Historical TrailHISTORIC SITE
(MAP)
It’s hard to envisage today, but the Treadwell mine on Douglas Island was once the largest gold mine in the world, set up like a minitown with its own baseball diamond, stores, dormitories and blacksmith. Reaching its zenith in the 1880s, the mine was subsequently abandoned after part of it slid into the sea in 1917. Today, spooky reminders of Juneau’s affluent mining past poke through the forest on this well-signposted historical trail with recently installed interpretive boards.
Of note is the concrete ‘New Office Building’, the 1917 slide site, a ‘glory hole’ and a restored pump house that stands like a beached tower a few meters offshore.
Treadwell is 3 miles south of the Douglas Bridge adjacent to Savikko Park (MAP; pc
#). Buses 1 or 11 from downtown will get you there.
Around Juneau
1Top Sights
1Sights
4Sleeping
6Drinking & Nightlife
3Entertainment
1North of Juneau
oMendenhall GlacierGLACIER
(MAP)
Going to Juneau and not seeing the Mendenhall is like visiting Rome and skipping the Colosseum. The most famous of Juneau’s ice floes, and the city’s most popular attraction, flows 13 miles from its source, the Juneau Icefield, and has a half-mile-wide face. It ends at Mendenhall Lake (MAP;, the reason for all the icebergs.
Naturalists estimate that within a few years it will retreat onto land, and within 25 years retreat out of view entirely from the observation area and visitor center.
On a sunny day it’s beautiful, with blue skies and snowcapped mountains in the background. On a cloudy and drizzly afternoon it can be even more impressive, as the ice turns shades of deep blue.
The river of ice is at the end of Glacier Spur Rd. From Egan Dr at Mile 9 turn right onto Mendenhall Loop Rd, staying on Glacier Spur Rd when the loop curves back toward Auke Bay.
Near the face of the glacier is the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center (MAP; 6000 Glacier Spur Rd; h8am-7:30pm) F, which houses various glaciology exhibits, including a fabricated ice face of the glacier along with a large relief map of the ice field; spotting scopes that let you look for mountain goats; and a theater that shows the 11-minute film Landscape of Change.
Outside you’ll find several hiking trails. The most popular are the 0.3-mile Photo-Overlook Trail and the Nugget Falls Trail (MAP); the latter leads a half-mile to a huge belting waterfall (MAP) that empties into the lake near the face of the glacier. For many the most interesting path is Steep Creek Trail, a 0.3-mile boardwalk that winds past viewing platforms along the stream. From July through September you’ll not only see sockeye and coho salmon spawning from the platforms but also brown and black bears feasting on them. This is Southeast Alaska’s most affordable bear-viewing site (though it can be partially closed due to heavy bear traffic in summer).
The cheapest way to see the glacier is to hop on a Capital Transit bus ($2). The bus, somewhat bizarrely, drops you 1.5 miles short of the visitor center. Follow the paved path north along the Glacier Spur Rd. More expensive, but easier, is the ‘blue bus’ operated by Mendenhall Glacier Transport/M & M Tours (%907-789-5460; www.mightygreattrips.com; per person $35), which picks up from the cruise-ship docks downtown for the glacier, making a run every 30 minutes. The last bus of the day depends on the cruise-ship schedule.
One of the most unusual outdoor activities in Juneau is glacier trekking: stepping into crampons, grabbing an ice axe and roping up to walk on ice 1000 years old or older. The scenery and the adventure is like nothing you’ve experienced before as a hiker. The most affordable outing is offered by Above & Beyond Alaska. Utilizing a trail to access Mendenhall Glacier, it avoids expensive helicopter fees on its guided seven-hour outing. The cost is $219 per person and includes all mountaineering equipment and transportation.
Shrine of St ThérèseSHRINE
(MAP; www.shrineofsainttherese.org; Mile 23.3, Glacier Hwy; h8:30am-10pm) F
Get ready for some spiritual enlightenment. The Shrine of St Thérèse is a natural stone chapel on a beautifully wooded island connected to the shore by a stone causeway. The Catholic church was commissioned by a Jesuit priest in the late 1930s, and the first Mass was held in 1941. It’s a wonderfully tranquil spot.
As well as being the site of numerous weddings, the island lies along the Breadline, a well-known salmon-fishing area in Juneau. It is perhaps the best place to shore fish for salmon.
Point Bridget State ParkSTATE PARK
(Mile 39, Glacier Hwy; p)
Juneau’s only state park overlooks Berners Bay and Lynn Canal; salmon fishing is excellent off the Berners Bay beaches and in Cowee Creek. Hiking trails wander through rainforest, along the 2850-acre park’s rugged shoreline and past three rental cabins.
The most popular hike is Point Bridget Trail, a 3.5-mile, one-way walk from the trailhead on Glacier Hwy to Blue Mussel Cabin at the point. Here, you can often spot sea lions and seals playing in the surf. Plan on six to seven hours for the round-trip with lunch at the cabin.
2Activities
Cycling
There are better cities for cycling than Juneau. For road-cyclists, there’s an on-off bike path between Auke Bay, Mendenhall Glacier and downtown.
Because most of Juneau’s trails are steep, mountain biking is limited, but the Windfall Lake (MAP), Perseverance and Peterson Lake trails are popular with off-road cyclists.
Pick up a local bike map at the Cycle Alaska store.
Cycle AlaskaCYCLING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-780-2253; www.cycleak.com; 1107 W 8th St; per 4hr/day $37/70; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun; c)
Rents quality road and mountain bikes along with children’s bikes and tandems. The company highlight is the Bike & Brew (adult/child $99/75), a four-hour bicycle tour that includes Auke Bay and Mendenhall Glacier, and finishes off at an old seaplane hangar for some beer tasting.
Fishing
Chum FunFISHING
(MAP; %907-398-2486; www.chumfun.com; 3100 Channel Dr; $125; c)
A salmon-fishing charter catering to families with an emphasis on fun, Chum Fun offers three-hour shore-fishing tours from the docks at Macauley Salmon Hatchery (MAP; %907-463-4810; www.dipac.net; 2697 Channel Dr; adult/child $5/3; h10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun; c) – free tour included. Transportation and all gear are provided, and though they’ll take care of your fishing license for you, the $25 fee is not included.
Hiking
Few cities in Alaska have such a diversity of hiking trails as Juneau. A handful of these trails start near the city center, the rest are ‘out the road’ (north of Auke Bay). All USFS cabins – there are 11 in the Juneau area – should be booked in advance.
Juneau Parks & Recreation (MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-0428; www.juneau.org/parksrec; 155 South Seward St) offers volunteer-led hikes every Wednesday (adults) and Saturday (kids OK) in ‘rain, shine or snow.’ Call or check the website for a schedule and the trails. Gastineau Guiding does guided hikes for small groups that include snacks, ponchos if needed and transportation.
oPerseverance TrailHIKING
The Perseverance Trail, off Basin Rd, is Juneau’s most popular. The trail is a path into Juneau’s mining history and also provides access to two other popular treks: Mt Juneau Trail and Granite Creek Trail. Together the routes can be combined into a rugged 10-hour walk for hardy hikers, or an overnight excursion into the mountains surrounding Alaska’s capital city.
To reach Perseverance Trail, head north out of town on Basin Rd, a dirt road that curves away from the city into the mountains as it follows Gold Creek. The trailhead is at the road’s end, at the parking lot for Last Chance Mining Museum. The trail leads into Silverbow Basin, an old mining area that still has many hidden and unmarked adits and mine shafts; be safe and stay on the trail.
From the Perseverance Trail, you can pick up Granite Creek Trail and follow it to the creek’s headwaters basin, a beautiful spot to spend the night. From there, you can reach Mt Juneau by climbing the ridge and staying left of Mt Olds, the huge rocky mountain. Once atop Mt Juneau, you can complete the loop by descending along the Mt Juneau Trail, which joins Perseverance Trail a mile from its beginning. The hike to the 3576ft peak of Mt Juneau along the ridge from Granite Creek is an easier but longer trek than the ascent from the Mt Juneau Trail. The alpine sections of the ridge are serene, and on a clear summer day you’ll have outstanding views. From the trailhead for the Perseverance Trail to the upper basin of Granite Creek is 3.3 miles one way. Then it’s another 3 miles along the ridge to reach Mt Juneau.
West Glacier TrailHIKING
(MAP)
This 3.4-mile trail begins off Montana Creek Rd past Mendenhall Lake Campground and hugs the mountainside along the glacier, providing exceptional views of glacial features before ending at a rocky outcropping. As it’s away from the visitor center, the trail is less trafficked, though you’ll hear persistent helicopter noise overhead in the summer.
The last part of the trail, unmaintained and marked by cairns, heads for the face of the glacier. It involves more scrambling over rocks but is as popular as the main trail.
Mt Roberts TrailHIKING
The 5-mile climb up Mt Roberts starts a short way up Basin Rd on the edge of town and offers various options for hikers. Some just ascend fairly steeply through the trees for 2 miles to the top of the tramway with its restaurant and nature center, but it’s worth pressing on to experience the flower-bedizened alpine meadows immediately above.
The next landmark, a half-mile beyond the tramway, is a wooden cross with good views of Juneau and Douglas. Above the cross you enter high alpine terrain and sometimes encounter snow as the path narrows, traversing a ridge that connects to Mt Gastineau (3666ft). Beyond Gastineau, the path drops into a saddle before ascending again to Mt Roberts (3818ft). Beware, the ridge can be a bit of a scramble in the snow and mist.
You can ‘cheat’ on the way down by riding the last segment on the Mt Roberts Tramway to S Franklin St for only $10. And, if you purchase $10 worth of food or drink (such as that well-deserved beer) at the visitor center on top, the ride down is free.
East Glacier LoopHIKING
(MAP)
One of many trails near Mendenhall Glacier, this one is a 2.8-mile round-trip providing good views of the glacier from a lookout at the halfway point, where you can also look down on Nugget Falls. Pick up the loop along the Trail of Time, a half-mile nature walk that starts at the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center.
Amalga TrailHIKING
(Eagle Glacier Trail; MAP)
A level route that winds 7.5 miles to the lake formed by Eagle Glacier. Less than a mile from the glacier’s face, Eagle Glacier Cabin offers views that make it well worth reserving in advance. The trailhead is at Eagle Beach State Recreation Area, beyond the Glacier Hwy bridge, 0.4 miles past the trailhead for the Herbert Glacier Trail.
Plan on a round-trip of seven to eight hours (15 miles) to reach the impressive Eagle Glacier and return to the trailhead. Note that the trail is sometimes called the Eagle Glacier Trail.
Nugget Creek TrailHIKING
(MAP)
Just beyond the East Glacier Loop’s halfway point lookout, the 2.5-mile Nugget Creek Trail climbs 500ft to Vista Creek Shelter, a free-use shelter that doesn’t require reservations. The round-trip to the shelter from the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is an 8-mile trek.
Hikers who plan to spend the night can continue toward Nugget Glacier, though the route can be hard to follow.
Peterson Lake TrailHIKING
(MAP)
This 4.3-mile route along Peterson Creek to its namesake lake is a favorite among hike-in anglers for the good Dolly Varden fishing. The trailhead is 20ft before the Mile 24 marker on Glacier Hwy, north of the Shrine of St Térèse. Wear rubber boots; it can be muddy. The Peterson Lake Cabin turns this trail into a delightful overnight adventure.
Herbert Glacier TrailHIKING
(MAP)
The Herbert Glacier Trail extends 4.9 miles along the Herbert River to Herbert Glacier, a round-trip of four to five hours. The first 3.5 miles of the trail are wide and easy with little climbing (good for mountain biking), though wet in places. It begins just past the bridge over Herbert River at Mile 28 of Glacier Hwy, north of Juneau.
Point Bishop TrailHIKING
At the end of Thane Rd, 7½ miles southeast of Juneau, this 8-mile trail leads to Point Bishop, an attractive spot overlooking the junction of Stephens Passage and Taku Inlet. The trail is flat and can be wet, making waterproof boots the preferred footwear. The hike makes for an ideal overnight trip; there is good camping at Point Bishop.
Dan Moller TrailHIKING
Dan Moller is a 3-mile trail leading to an alpine bowl at the crest of Douglas Island that traverses muskeg and flower fields. At the turnaround is the Dan Moller Cabin (1800ft), popular in winter with cross-country skiers.
Just across the channel in West Juneau, the public bus conveniently stops at Cordova St and from there, you turn left onto Pioneer Ave and follow it to the end of the pavement to the trailhead. Plan on six hours for the round-trip.
Paddling
Day trips and extended paddles are possible out of the Juneau area in sea kayaks. Alternatively, you can freshwater kayak on Mendenhall Lake.
Alaska Boat & Kayak CenterKAYAKING
(MAP; %907-364-2333; www.juneaukayak.com; 11521 Glacier Hwy; single/double kayaks $55/75; h9am-5pm)
Based in Auke Bay Harbor, this places offers kayak rental, transportation services and multiday discounts. The company has self-guided ($125) and guided paddles ($169) on Mendenhall Lake. The former includes kayaks, transportation and a waterproof map that leads you on a route among the icebergs. It also shows you where to land for a short hike for close-up glacier views.
Berners BayKAYAKING
At the top end of Glacier Hwy, 40 miles north of Juneau, is Echo Cove, where kayakers can paddle into Berners Bay’s protected waters. The bay, which extends 12 miles north to the outlets of the Antler, Lace and Berners Rivers, is ideal for an overnight trip or longer excursions up Berners River.
The delightful USFS Berners Bay Cabin (www.recreation.gov; cabins $45) is an 8-mile paddle from Echo Cove. Contact Alaska Boat & Kayak Center for transporting kayaks to Echo Cove.
Auke BayKAYAKING
(MAP)
The easiest sea paddle around Juneau is out to and around the islands of Auke Bay. You can even camp on the islands to turn the adventure into an overnight trip. Alaska Boat & Kayak Center rents kayaks from Auke Bay Harbor.
Taku InletKAYAKING
This waterway is an excellent four- to five-day trip, with close views of Taku Glacier. Total paddling distance is 30 to 40 miles, depending on how far you travel up the inlet. It does not require any major crossing, though rounding Point Bishop can be rough at times.
You can camp at Point Bishop and along the grassy area southwest of the glacier, where brown bears are occasionally seen.
Whale-Watching
A Juneau tour de force! The whale-watching in nearby Stephens Passage is so good that some tour operators will refund your money if you don’t see at least one whale. The boats depart from Auke Bay, and most tours last three to four hours. Some operators offer courtesy transportation from downtown.
Harv & Marv’sWHALE WATCHING
(%907-209-7288; www.harvandmarvs.com; per person $160)
Small, personalized tours with no more than six passengers in the boat. They pick up from the cruise dock and transfer to the boat in Auke Bay.
Gastineau GuidingWHALE WATCHING
(MAP; %907-586-8231; www.stepintoalaska.com; 1330 Eastaugh Way; adult/child $230/185)
Gastineau caters to small groups and specializes in whale-watching, often including a little hiking on the side. Its five-hour ‘whale-watching and glacier rainforest trail’ tour includes a guided hike near the Mendenhall Glacier.
Ziplining
Juneau has a two zipline courses where you can harness up and fly through 100ft trees like an eagle – or a low-flying floatplane.
oAlaska Zipline AdventuresADVENTURE SPORTS
(MAP; %907-321-0947; www.alaskazip.com; adult/child $149/99)
Possibly Alaska’s most adrenaline-laced zip, these nine lines and two sky bridges are located at beautiful Eaglecrest Ski Area on Douglas Island, from where they zigzag across Fish Creek Valley. Transportation (usually a boat) from the cruise-ship dock is included.
WORTH A TRIP
TAKU GLACIER LODGE
The most popular tours in Juneau are flightseeing, glacier-viewing and salmon-bakes, and a trip to the historic off-the-grid Taku Glacier Lodge (%907-586-6275; www.wingsairways.com; adult/child $315/270) combines all three. Wings Airways (%907-586-6275; www.wingsairways.com; 2 Marine Way, Suite 175), a local floatplane company, has a monopoly on access. Its trips include flying across a half-dozen glaciers to the lodge where an incredible meal of wild salmon awaits.
The trip is a popular cruise-ship excursion, so don’t expect to have this particular slice of wilderness to yourself. Sign up at the Wings Airways office behind Merchant’s Wharf on Juneau’s waterfront.
TTours
The easiest way to book a tour in Juneau is to head to the cruise-ship terminal, near the Mt Roberts Tramway, where most of the operators will be hawking their wares from a line of outdoor booths, like sideshow barkers at a carnival.
More adventurous tours include helicopter rides over the Juneau Icefield and excursions to Tracy Arm, a steep-sided fjord 45 miles southeast of Juneau, that has a pair of tidewater glaciers and a gallery of icebergs floating down its length.
Pack Creek Bear ToursTOURS
(MAP; %907-789-3331; www.packcreekbeartours.com; 1873 Shell Simmons Dr; h9am-7pm)
Holds permits and offers a guided 6½-hour, fly-in tour ($789) with naturalist guide for groups of no more than five people. Book online early. Despite the price, it’s megapopular.
Era HelicoptersSCENIC FLIGHTS
(MAP; %800-843-1947; www.eraflightseeing.com; 6910 N Douglas Hwy)
The Mendenhall Glacier is only a tiny part of the humongous Juneau Icefield and you can see a great deal more of this sprawling white carpet on an expensive but spectacular helicopter tour ($750), which includes a couple of stops on terra firma.
The company also runs shorter but cheaper flights ($350) over the advancing Taku Glacier south of town.
NorthStar TrekkingHIKING
(MAP; %907-790-4530; www.northstartrekking.com; 1910 Renshaw Way)
NorthStar offers several full-on glacier treks of varying levels that helicopter you directly out to the Juneau Icefield. The two-hour glacier trek ($399) crosses 2 miles of frozen landscape riddled with crevasses for a hike that is as stunning as it is pricey. The three-hour trek ($499) utilizes technical climbing skills and ice-wall descents. Trips include all equipment and training.
Juneau Food ToursFOOD & DRINK
(%800-656-0713; www.juneaufoodtours.com; tours $95-129)
It would have been inconceivable a decade ago, but Juneau is a culinary city on the rise with a microbrewery, a microdistillery and a food culture steeped in crab, salmon and halibut. This locally run outfit dangles three different tours that take you through the taste notes. Book online.
Adventure Bound AlaskaBOATING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-463-2509; www.adventureboundalaska.com; 76 Egan Dr; adult/child $160/95)
This longtime tour operator uses a pair of boats that leave daily from the Juneau waterfront to explore Tracy Arm, a 30-mile-long fjord 45 miles south of Juneau that protects the tidewater Sawyer Glacier.
Reserve a seat in advance if you can – the full-day tour is popular with cruise ships – and pack a lunch (you can bring beer or wine!) along with your binoculars.
Juneau ToursTOURS
(%907-523-6095; www.juneautours.com)
Pro company that specializes in quick, economical tours for cruise passengers with limited time. The quickest and cheapest is the 45-minute trolley tour that departs from the Mt Roberts Tram Station and loops around the city’s main sights ($30). Other trips include three hours of whale-watching ($115) and a shuttle to the Mendenhall Glacier (round-trip $30).
The company picks up from the cruise-ship dock.
Above & Beyond AlaskaHIKING
(MAP; %907-364-2333; www.beyondak.com; 2767 Sherwood Lane; per person $219; h8am-4pm)
Utilizing the West Glacier Trail to access Mendenhall Glacier, Above & Beyond Alaska avoids expensive helicopter fees on its guided eight-hour outing, with one hour on the glacier itself.
zFestivals & Events
oCelebrationCULTURAL
(hJun)
In June of even-numbered years, Southeast Alaska’s three main tribal groups, the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian, gather for the aptly named ‘Celebration,’ the largest native cultural event in Alaska. The festival’s sentiment is as simple as its name: to celebrate and revitalize ancient traditions in native dance, music and art which, by the early 20th century, were in danger of extinction.
Alaska Folk FestivalMUSIC
(www.alaskafolkfestival.org; hmid-Apr)
Attracts musicians from around the state for a week of performances, workshops and dances at Centennial Hall.
4Sleeping
Typically for a state capital, Juneau’s hotels are more businesslike than boutique. There’s a modest hostel and several out-of-town campgrounds.
The city tacks on 12% in bed and sales taxes to the price of lodging.
oMendenhall Lake CampgroundCAMPGROUND$
(MAP; %518-885-3639, reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; Montana Creek Rd; tent/RV sites $10/28)
One of Alaska’s most beautiful USFS campgrounds. The 69-site area (17 sites with hookups) is on Montana Creek Rd, off Mendenhall Loop Rd, and has a separate seven-site walk-in area. The campsites are alongside Mendenhall Lake, and many have spectacular views of the icebergs or even the glacier that discharges them.
All the sites are well spread out in the woods, and 20 can be reserved in advance.
Juneau International HostelHOSTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-9559; www.juneauhostel.net; 614 Harris St; dm adult/child $12/5; iW)
Welcome to a real old-fashioned hostel, the type where the rates are low as long as you perform a daily chore (dish washing anyone?). The chore policy obviously works – the place is kept spotlessly clean with the communal areas avoiding the overflowing clutter of some hostels. In total there are eight bunk rooms, and amenities include laundry, storage and free internet access.
In the lounge area, the overstuffed sofas are strategically placed around a large bay window with a view of snowy peaks and Douglas Island. The one downside is the strict 9am to 5pm lock-out policy, but for this price, who cares?
Alaskan HotelHOTEL$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-1000; www.thealaskanhotel.com; 167 S Franklin St; r with/without bath $90/80; W)
Welcome to a quintessential gold-boom hotel, with heavily patterned wallpaper clashing with the heavily patterned carpet, lots of wood paneling and walls that would probably relate some lewd erstwhile antics could they talk (it’s the oldest operating hotel in Alaska, dating from 1913).
Bedrooms are smallish, some have shared bathrooms and there’s a rowdy bar downstairs, but, if you like to immerse yourself in the ghosts of gold rushes past, this place could stimulate some lucid historical hallucinations. It’s cheap, too.
Auke Village CampgroundCAMPGROUND$
(MAP; www.recreation.gov; Glacier Hwy; tent & RV sites $10)
Fancy camping on the site of an old Tlingit village? Then head 2 miles west of the ferry terminal on Glacier Hwy to this first-come, first-served USFS campground with 11 sites in a beautiful wooded location overlooking Auke Bay.
Spruce Meadow RV ParkCAMPGROUND$
(MAP; %907-789-1990; www.juneaurv.com; 10200 Mendenhall Loop Rd; tent sites $22-29, RV sites $34-38; W)
Practically next door to Mendenhall Lake Campground, but not nearly as nice, is this full-service campground with laundromat, cable TV and tent sites as well as full hookups. It’s right on the city bus route.
Juneau HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-5666; www.juneauhotels.net; 1200 W 9th St; ste $184; W)
Located within easy walking distance of downtown attractions, this handsome all-suites hotel is Juneau’s best deal in midrange accommodations. The 73 suites have full kitchens, sitting areas, two TVs each and even washers and dryers. It’s right next to the Douglas Bridge.
Prospector HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-1204; www.prospectorhotel.com; 375 Whittier St; r from $149; piW)
The Prospector is a typical middle-of-the-road Juneau option: unexciting, but perfectly comfortable and in a good location. There’s an on-site bar/restaurant, self-service laundry and an efficient reception desk. Rooms are large with plenty of storage, should you arrive with bags full of fishing gear. It’s next door to the revamped Alaska State Museum.
Driftwood HotelMOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-2280; www.driftwoodalaska.com; 435 Willoughby Ave; r/ste $125/175; pW)
The woody, slightly scruffy exterior doesn’t really do the 63-room Driftwood justice. Sure, it looks like a journeyman motel, but inside the rooms are clean and updated regularly. Two extra bonuses: it’s next door to the excellent Sandpiper brunch spot and it’s the only place in town offering 24-hour courtesy transportation to the airport and ferry.
Auke Lake B&BB&B$$
(MAP; %907-790-3253; www.aukelakebb.com; 11595 Mendenhall Loop Rd; r $140-190; W)
Located 10 minutes from Mendenhall Glacier, this valley B&B has five luxurious rooms with phone, TV, refrigerator and coffeemaker. In the living room is a stuffed giant brown bear, while outside is a beautiful deck and hot tub overlooking Auke Lake. A kayak, a canoe, and a BBQ in a gazebo are available. The only pickle is location if you’re carless.
oAlaska’s Capital InnB&B$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-6507; www.alaskacapitalinn.com; 113 W 5th St; r incl breakfast $265-355; piW)
Taking Alaskan B&Bs to a new level is the Capital Inn (suitably situated across the street from the state capitol), where period details mingle with modern comfort. Housed in the gorgeously restored 1906 home of a wealthy gold-rush-era miner, the inn has seven rooms with hardwood floors covered by colorful Persian rugs.
One of many highlights is the family-style breakfast served in the formal dining room – a true feast. For ravenous appetites there’s a bottomless cookie jar available all day. The backyard has multiple decks, gardens and a secluded hot tub that even the governor can’t spy on.
oSilverbow InnBOUTIQUE HOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-4146; www.silverbowinn.com; 120 2nd St; r $199-244; iW)
A swanky (for Alaska) boutique inn with 11 rooms. The 100-year-old building emanates a retro-versus-modern feel with antiques and rooms with private baths, king and queen beds and flat-screen TVs. A 2nd-floor deck features a hot tub with a view of Douglas Island’s mountains. Breakfast is served in the morning and there’s a cocoa and cookies ‘happy hour’ in the afternoon.
Beachside Villa Luxury InnB&B$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-463-5531; www.beachsidevilla.com; 3120 Douglas Hwy; r $229-329; W)
Luxury is an accurate assessment of this B&B with five rooms and amenities that range from balconies and private entrances to fireplaces and in-room Jacuzzis. Best of all is its Douglas Island location and views. Perched on the Gastineau Channel, its porches and neatly landscaped backyard overlook downtown Juneau, Mt Roberts and the parade of floatplanes and vessels entering the harbor.
Four Points by SheratonHOTEL$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-6900; www.fourpointsjuneau.com; 51 Egan Dr; r $175-275; piW)
The former Goldbelt hotel – one of Juneau’s tallest buildings – has recently come under the ownership of Sheraton, which has given the place a full refurbishment. Rooms are large with deluxe beds and fittings along with some sharp color accents. The ones facing the water on the higher floors are, not surprisingly, the best. Rear rooms can be a little dark.
Downstairs off the lobby there is a new fitness room, coffee on-tap, and access to McGivney’s Sports Bar & Grill. Prices fluctuate; check online for the best deals.
5Eating
Once a culinary desert in a rainforest setting, Juneau is finally beginning to serve up a restaurant scene worthy of a state capital. Several new bistros and bars are catering to an increasingly savvy crowd who want more than fried fish for dinner.
oPel’MeniDUMPLINGS$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Merchant’s Wharf, Marine Way; dumplings $7; h11:30am-1:30am Sun-Thu, to 3:30am Fri & Sat)
Juneau was never part of Russia’s Alaskan empire, but that hasn’t stopped the city succumbing to a silent invasion of pelmeni (homemade Russian dumplings), filled with either potato or beef, spiced with hot sauce, curry and cilantro, and tempered with a little optional sour cream and rye bread on the side.
They’re served in what is a cross between a disheveled greasy spoon and a crumby student canteen, where tipsy undergrads mix with grizzled bearded guys over a backing track of scratchy vinyl (shelves of dog-eared LPs fill one wall). There’s no menu, no price differential and no credit-card machine; just good vibes, funny late-night antics and even better dumplings. Legend!
Rainbow FoodsHEALTH FOOD$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-6476; www.rainbow-foods.org; 224 4th St; snacks $8; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun)
Ironically juxtaposed right next door to the dig-and-drill politicians in the state capitol is this natural-food store, a hangout for liberals and environmentalists. Along with a large selection of fresh produce and bulk goods, the store has a hot-and-cold food bar for lunch, espresso and fresh baked goods, and a bulletin board with the latest cultural happenings.
Hot BiteBURGERS$
(MAP; %907-790-2483; 11465 Auke Bay Harbor Dr; hamburgers $10-14; h11am-7pm)
The best milkshakes and burgers in Juneau are in Auke Bay Harbor. Hot Bite is housed in the one-time ticket office of Pan American Airways and has seating outside in nice weather.
It offers up almost 40 flavors of milkshake and, as if three scoops of ice cream weren’t enough, its cheesecake shake also has cream cheese and graham-cracker crumbs mixed in.
GonZo AKBREAKFAST$
(MAP; 11806 Glacier Hwy; waffles $9-11; h7am-4pm Mon & Wed-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun; W)
The former South East Waffle Co still does waffles at its Auke Bay cafe despite the name change. Try ’em with blueberries, eggs, cinnamon or even salmon.
oRookeryCAFE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-463-3013; www.therookerycafe.com; 111 Seward St; lunch $9-14, dinner mains $15-24; h7am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat)
A brilliant combo of laid-back coffee shop by day and hip bistro by night, the Rookery serves Portland, OR’s Stumptown coffee and original breakfasts, lunches and dinners. Buttermilk corn cakes, sandwiches on homemade focaccia, and breakfast rice bowls are just some of the daytime offerings. At 4pm, the wi-fi is extinguished and a daily changing menu that includes charcuterie and salads emerges.
The walls are adorned with beautiful Alaska photo art that can be reproduced should you spot one you like.
oSaffronINDIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-1036; www.saffronalaska.com; 112 N Franklin St; mains $8-19; h11:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 5-9pm Sat & Sun; 
v)
Juneau flirts with nuevo Indian food at Saffron and the results are commendable. There are plenty of delicate breads to go with the aromatic curries with a strong bias toward vegetarian dishes (including a good spinach paneer). For lunch it offers thalis (small taster-sized plates). Everything is made from scratch and the exotic cooking smells lure you in from the street.
Tracy’s King Crab ShackSEAFOOD$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.kingcrabshack.com; 406 S Franklin St; crab $13-45; h10am-8pm)
The best of the food shacks along the cruise-ship berths is Tracy’s. On a boardwalk surrounded by a beer shack and a gift shop, she serves up outstanding crab bisque, mini crab cakes and 3lb buckets of king-crab pieces ($110). Grab a friend or six and share.
In Bocca Al LupoITALIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-1409; 120 2nd St; pizza & pasta $14-17; h5-9pm Mon-Sat)
Another step on Juneau’s stairway to culinary heaven is this hip new Italian place whose dark (surely temporary) facade hides a beautiful streamlined woody interior where you can sit at the bar and watch the chefs tuck pizzas into a glowing wood-fire oven. It attracts cultured locals and the odd cruiser for its interesting antipasto plates, eclectic wine list and thin-crust pizzas.
Island PubPIZZA$$
(MAP; www.theislandpub.com; 1102 2nd St; large pizzas $13-20; h11:30am-10pm)
This local fave about which they rave is across the channel from Juneau proper. It’s a relaxing, unhurried place with a wooden Wild West facade that serves firebrick-oven focaccia and the best pizza in town, with a side of channel and mountain views. Before the pie arrives you can enjoy a drink from an impressive list of cocktails. Don’t worry about a Red Dog Saloon mob scene – you’re on Douglas Island.
El SombreroMEXICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.elsombrerojuneau.com; 157 S Franklin St; mains $13-21; h11am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat)
Sombrero is practically the only city-center joint that’s not packed out when there are five cruise ships in town. But shhh, this is a dearly beloved local stronghold knocking out piquant enchiladas, burritos and fish tacos in a state not renowned for its Latino restaurants.
Snack on the complimentary nachos and salsa, listen to the chatter, and have a day off from halibut and chips.
RockwellAMERICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.rockwelljuneau.com; 109 S Franklin St; sandwiches $9-14, dinner mains $13-18; h11am-11pm)
Rather dingy looking from the outside, but surprisingly hip within, Rockwell pulls in all sorts for (late) breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu appears meat-heavy at first with hand-cut steaks and excellent burgers, but the kitchen also makes fine European-style standard salads. Better still is the long bar that serves all the local microbrews and microspirits.
SandpiperBREAKFAST$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 429 Willoughby Ave; mains breakfast $10-17, lunch $11-14; h6am-2pm)
If you conducted a local opinion poll, the Sandpiper could well register as Juneau’s best breakfast. Skip the eggs and try one of the Belgian waffles, blueberry buttermilk pancakes or specialty French toasts such as mandarin and mascarpone cheese.
Douglas CaféCAFE$$
(MAP; 916 3rd St, Douglas; breakfast mains $11-13, dinner mains $19-24; h11am-8:30pm Tue-Fri, 8:30am-8:30pm Sat, 9am-12:30pm Sun)
This casual eatery (one of two restaurants on Douglas Island) serves up 15 different types of burgers, including a Boring Burger. But if it’s dinner, skip the bun and go for one of its tempting mains, which range from tarragon-lime chicken to Cajun prawn fettuccine. Serves brunch on weekends.
Timberline Bar & GrillINTERNATIONAL$$$
(%907-463-1338; mains $17-45; h11am-8pm)
The top station of the Mt Roberts Tramway supports this large restaurant which, not surprisingly, sports the best views in town. Highlights include the shareable crab nachos and pelmeni, both of which taste much better if you’ve hiked up.
SaltAMERICAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-780-2221; www.saltalaska.com; 200 Seward St; mains $20-36; h4-11pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun)
Newish Salt is run by Tracy of Tracy’s King Crab Shack and the dedication is evident as soon as you walk in. High-quality, creative Alaskan cuisine is the highlight, accompanied by a long wine list and fresh desserts, as well as attention to locals with unconventional renderings of Alaskan seafood. It’s swanky (but still Juneau), with candlelit tables and muted colors. Reservations recommended.
As well as expensive mains, it offers smaller shared plates from 4pm – great with an aperitif.
Hangar on the WharfSEAFOOD$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.hangaronthewharf.com; 2 Marine Way; mains $13-35; h11am-midnight)
Housed in Merchant’s Wharf (also called Fisherman’s Wharf), a renovated floatplane hangar that sits on pilings above Juneau’s waterfront, the Hangar is usually a bit of a bun fight when there’s more than one cruise ship in town. Seafood rules and, while it’s not cheap, the beer’s good, as is the unobstructed channel view, a landing strip for buzzing seaplanes.
JUNEAU’S WILDERNESS CABINS
Numerous United States Forest Service cabins are accessible from Juneau, but all are heavily used, requiring advance reservations. If you’re just passing through, check with the USFS Juneau Ranger District Office for a list of what’s available. The following cabins are within 30 minutes’ flying time of Juneau; air charters will cost around $500 to $600 round-trip from Juneau, split among a planeload of up to five passengers. Alaska Seaplane Service can provide flights on short notice.
Turner Lake West Cabin (www.recreation.gov; cabins $45) is one of the most scenic, and by far the most popular, cabins in the Juneau area. It’s 18 miles east of Juneau on the west end of Turner Lake, where the fishing is good for trout, Dolly Varden and salmon. A skiff is provided.
Admiralty Island’s north end has three popular cabins, all $35 a night. Admiralty Cove Cabin is on a scenic bay and has access to Young Lake along a rough 4.5-mile trail. Brown bears frequent the area. The two Young Lake Cabins have skiffs to access a lake with good fishing for cutthroat trout and landlocked salmon. A lakeshore trail connects the two cabins.
There are also three rental cabins in Point Bridget State Park that rent for $45 a night. Cowee Meadow Cabin is a 2.5-mile hike into the park, Blue Mussel Cabin is a 3.4-mile walk and Camping Cove Cabin a 4-mile trek. Both Blue Mussel and Camping Cove overlook the shoreline and make great destinations for kayakers.
There are three cabins available at Eagle Beach State Recreation Area campground (MAP; %907-586-2506; Mile 28, Glacier Hwy; tent & RV sites $15). Check availability through the Alaska Division of Parks.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Nightlife centers on S Franklin and Front Sts, a historic, quaint (but not quiet) main drag, attracting locals and tourists alike.
There’s an out-of-town microbrewery and a new in-town microdistillery.
Alaskan Brewing CompanyBREWERY
(MAP; www.alaskanbeer.com; 5429 Shaune Dr; h11am-6pm)
Established in 1986 (ancient history in craft-brewing years), Alaska’s largest brewery has always been a pioneer. Its amber ale (along with many other concoctions) is ubiquitous across the state and rightly so. Note: this is not a brewpub but a tasting room with tours. It isn’t located downtown either, but 5 miles to the northwest in Lemon Creek.
The brewery runs hourly guided tasting tours ($20) around its small facility, which include samples of up to six lagers and ales. You can arrive by public bus or taxi, but the best way to get here is on a special shuttle (free if you take the tour) that runs from its downtown retail store, Alaskan Brewing Co Depot.
CoppaCOFFEE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-3500; 917 Glacier Ave; h6:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, to 9pm Fri, 8am-6pm Sat)
A little more than just a coffee shop (though it does serve locally roasted Sentinel Coffee), Coppa serves fresh-baked pastries, loose-leaf teas and housemade gelato – if you can’t handle the caramelized-onion flavor, try local favorite rhubarb. Located near the Douglas Bridge.
McGivney’s Sports Bar & GrillPUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 51 Egan Dr; h11am-10pm)
This is Juneau’s upmarket sports bar with two branches (the other one is out at Auke Bay). There are more than a dozen beers on tap (including local microbrews from Juneau and Sitka), fancy-time cocktails and 15 TVs perennially tuned to NFL, NBA or the like.
Happy hour for appetizers is 3pm to 5pm and the food is verging on gourmet.
Amalga DistilleryDISTILLERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-209-2015; www.amalgadistillery.com; 134 N Franklin St; h1-8pm) S
First Haines, now Juneau: microdistilling has definitely arrived in Southeast Alaska. At the time of writing, these guys were so new that their whiskey was still maturing, but you can taste their potent Juneauper gin, best appreciated with homemade tonic, ice and a slice. The clean-cut family-friendly tasting room, complete with Kentucky-made ‘still’, inhabits an old Alaska Electric Light & Power building downtown.
Red Dog SaloonBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.reddogsaloon.com; 278 S Franklin St; h11am-10pm)
A sign at the door says it all – ‘Booze, Antiques, Sawdust Floor, Community Singing’ – and the cruise-ship passengers love it! Most don’t realize, much less care, that this Red Dog is but a replica of the original, a gold-mining-era Alaskan drinking hole that was across the street until 1987. Now that was a bar.
The duplicate is, well…a duplicate, and once you’re in, there’s only one way out – through the gift shop.
Heritage Coffee Co & CaféCOFFEE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-1087; www.heritagecoffee.com; 130 Front St; h6am-7:30pm; W) S
Owners of seven perennially busy Juneau cafes, Heritage was an early starter in the coffee boom. It’s been roasting beans for over 35 years in an old Starbucks roaster. Of the magnificent seven cafes, this downtown favorite with huge muffins is where you’ll most likely end up.
Viking LoungeLOUNGE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 218 Front St; h10am-3am; W)
Packed with all the calling cards of a classic Alaskan dive bar, including car license plates, taxidermy, TVs on sports-channel loops and a tin ceiling thrown in for good measure. Inside you’ll discover three bars. At street level is a sports pub; half-hidden in the back, a lounge featuring a small dance floor and DJs; and upstairs a billiards hall with seven tables.
It’s like the Red Dog without the canned atmosphere.
3Entertainment
Gold Town NickelodeonCINEMA
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-586-2875; www.goldtownnick.com; 171 Shattuck St; adult/child $9/5)
In among the thick cluster of jewelry shops that plays to the cruise crowd is this delightful art-house theater, which presents small-budget foreign films and documentaries. Seating arrangements include velour couches.
Perseverance TheaterTHEATER
(MAP; %907-364-2421; www.perseverancetheatre.org; 914 3rd St, Douglas)
Founded in 1979, this is Alaska’s only genuine full-time professional theater company. Sadly the theater season begins in September and ends in May, though it does host events throughout the summer – check the website for info. The small theater is over the water from downtown in Douglas
7Shopping
Juneau Arts and A Culture CenterARTS & CRAFTS
(JACC; MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.jahc.org; 350 Whittier St; h9am-6pm)
The impressive JACC gallery features the work of a local artist every month, while the adjacent Lobby Shop is a place for Southeast Alaskans to sell their artworks, including jewelry, paintings and books.
The website is an excellent resource for Juneau happenings.
Juneau Artists GalleryARTS & CRAFTS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.juneauartistsgallery.com; 175 S Franklin St, Senate Bldg; h9am-9pm)
A co-op of 27 local artists have filled this downtown store with paintings, etchings, glasswork, jewelry and pottery. The person behind the counter ready to help you is that day’s ‘Artist On Duty.’
Hearthside BooksBOOKS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.hearthsidebooks.com; 254 Front St; h10am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat, noon-5pm Sun; c)
Juneau has fabulous bookstores for a town of its size. This well-loved nook has good travel and kids sections and helpful staff.
Fireweed FactoryDISPENSARY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-957-2670; 237 Front St; hnoon-6pm Mon-Wed, Fri & Sat)
Following the legalization of marijuana in Alaska in November 2014, in March 2017 this became the second recreational pot shop to open in Juneau. It’s a tiny abode (about the width of an average arm-span), but popular – with cruisers as much as locals. It sells a half-dozen different strains. Photo ID is required for entry.
Alaskan Brewing Co DepotGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 219 S Franklin St; h9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun)
The Alaska Brewing Co’s gift store downtown also runs a van out to the brewery for tasting sessions every hour for $20 per person, round-trip.
Foggy Mountain ShopSPORTS & OUTDOORS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.foggymountainshop.com; 134 N Franklin St; h9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat)
For packs, outdoor-wear, United States Geological Survey (USGS) topo maps and anything else you need for backcountry trips, stop at Foggy Mountain Shop. This is the only outdoor shop in town with top-of-the-line equipment, and the prices reflect that.
8Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Bartlett Regional Hospital (%907-796-631; 3260 Hospital Dr) Southeast Alaska’s largest hospital is off Glacier Hwy between downtown and Lemon Creek.
Juneau Urgent Care (%907-790-4111; 8505 Old Dairy Rd; h8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) A walk-in medical clinic near Nugget Mall in the Valley.
MONEY
There’s no shortage of banks in Juneau. Most have ATMs and branches both downtown and in the Valley.
First Bank (605 W Willoughby Ave; h8am-5:30pm Mon-Fri)
Wells Fargo (123 Seward St; h9:30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Alaska Division of Parks (MAP; %907-465-4563; www.dnr.state.ak.us/parks; 400 Willoughby Ave; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) Head to the 5th floor of the Natural Resources Building for state-park information, including cabin rentals.
Juneau Visitor Center (%907-586-2201; www.traveljuneau.com; 470 S Franklin St; h8am-5pm) The visitor center is on the cruise-ship terminal right next to the Mt Roberts Tramway and has all the information you need to explore Juneau, find a trail or book a room. The center also maintains smaller booths at the airport, at the marine ferry terminal and downtown (MAP; Marine Way; hhours vary) near the library.
USFS Juneau Ranger District Office (MAP; %907-586-8800; 8510 Mendenhall Loop Rd; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri) This impressive office is in Mendenhall Valley and is the place for questions about cabins, trails, kayaking and Pack Creek bear-watching permits. It also serves as the USFS office for Admiralty Island National Monument.
8Getting There & Away
AIR
Juneau International Airport (MAP) is located 9 miles northwest of downtown. There is a bus link.
Alaska Airlines offers scheduled jet service to Seattle (two hours), all major Southeast cities, Glacier Bay (30 minutes), Anchorage (two hours) and Cordova (2½ hours) daily in summer.
Alaska Seaplanes (%907-789-3331; www.flyalaskaseaplanes.com) flies daily floatplanes from Juneau to Angoon ($144), Gustavus ($115), Pelican ($180) and Tenakee Springs ($144).
CRUISE SHIP
Cruise ships get a far better deal than the state ferry, pulling into a line of docks that starts just south of the downtown core, next to the Mt Roberts Tramway base station. As many as six ships can dock at once, meaning if you’re last in the queue, you’ll have further to walk. Free shuttles provide wheels for those who would rather not.
FERRY
Ferries dock at the Alaska Marine Highway Auke Bay Ferry Terminal (MAP; %800-642-0066; www.ferryalaska.com), 14 miles northwest of downtown. In summer, the main-line ferries traversing the Inside Passage depart southbound weekly for Sitka ($65, nine hours), and three times a week for Petersburg ($78, eight hours) and Ketchikan ($126, 19 hours).
You can shorten the sailing times on the high-speed MV Fairweather, which connects Juneau to Petersburg and Sitka once a week. Several shorter routes also operate in summer. The smaller MV LeConte regularly connects Juneau to the secondary ports of Hoonah ($42, seven hours), Tenakee Springs ($46, eight hours) and Angoon ($51, seven hours). Two times a month, the MV Kennicott departs Juneau for a trip to Yakutat ($110, 17 hours) then across the Gulf of Alaska to Whittier ($252, 39 hours); reservations are strongly suggested.
8Getting Around
TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
A taxi (%907-796-2300) to/from the airport costs around $25.
The city bus express route runs to the airport, but only from 7:30am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday. On weekends and in the evening, if you want a bus you’ll need to walk 10 minutes to the nearest ‘regular route’ stop behind Nugget Mall. The regular route headed downtown stops here regularly from 7:15am until 10:45pm Monday to Saturday, and from 9:15am until 5:45pm Sunday. The fare on either route is $2/1 per adult/child.
BUS
Juneau’s sadistic and seemingly illogical public bus system, Capital Transit (MAP; %907-789-6901; www.juneau.org/capitaltransit), stops way short of the ferry terminal and 1.5-miles short of the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center.
Even getting to/from the airport can be problematic: only the ‘express’ route goes right to the terminal, and it only runs during business hours on weekdays. At other times, you’ll have to carry your bag(s) between the airport and the ‘regular’ route’s stop at Nugget Mall, a 10-minute walk. The ‘regular’ route buses start around 7am and stop before midnight, running every half-hour after 8am and before 6:30pm.
The most useful routes are buses 3 and 4, which head from downtown to the Mendenhall Valley via Auke Bay Boat Harbor, and buses 1 and 11, which shuttle between downtown and Douglas Island.
Fares are $2/1 each way per adult/child, and exact change is required. All buses stop at the Downtown Transit Center (MAP; Egan Dr, cnr Main St).
CAR
Juneau has many car-rental places, and renting a car is a great way for two or three people to see the sights out of the city or to reach a trailhead.
Decent offers come from Juneau Car Rental (%907-789-0951, 907-957-7530; www.juneaucarrentals.com), which is a mile from the airport but provides pickups and has a designated airport parking spot for when you drop the car off.
You can also rent a car at the airport, but will have to stomach a 26% tax as opposed to a 15% tax elsewhere.