Denali & the Interior

Why Go?

Alaska literally translates as ‘mainland,’ but a more poetic etymology would be ‘The Land.’ And with that in mind, the great Alaskan Interior is, truly, The Land: a vast expanse of boreal forest, alpine tundra and jagged mountains cut by braided rivers and slithering tongues of frost-white glaciers.

Interspersed throughout this region, which is larger than many American states (and small countries), are tiny villages, thriving towns and lonely roadhouses, where a population of trappers, hunters, guides, rangers, teachers, truckers and plain old folk live amid one of the world’s great wilderness playgrounds.

The big name in this region is Denali National Park, blessed with the continent’s mightiest mountain, abundant megafauna and easy access. But there’s so much more: routes that are destinations in and of themselves, clapboard settlements and a myriad of parks that will redefine your very notion of natural beauty.

When to Go

May The best month to visit Denali National Park for clear views of Denali.
Jun The tundra comes alive with millions of migratory birds.
Sep High probability of seeing the northern lights in Fairbanks.

Best Places to Eat

A Sheep Mountain Lodge

A LuLu’s Bread and Bagels

A Prospectors Pizzeria & Ale House

A 229 Parks

Best Places to Stay

A Wonder Lake Campground

A Ultima Thule

A Ma Johnson’s Hotel

A EarthSong Lodge

A Ah, Rose Marie B&B

Denali & the Interior Highlights

1 Denali National Park Spotting caribou near the country’s largest mountain.

2 Denali Highway Hiking or bird-watching on this lonely, scenic wonder.

3 Talkeetna Enjoying a beer and a perfect summer day in this artsy town.

4 Wrangell-St Elias National Park Stepping into the great expanse of the nation’s largest national park.

5 Richardson Highway Driving this awe-inspiring track over mountain passes and river valleys.

6 McCarthy Exploring glaciers and copper mines around this quirky ‘burg.

7 Fairbanks Beholding the northern lights from the Interior’s largest town.

8 Tok Discovering the strange theme park/junkyard that is Mukluk Land.

HIKING & PADDLING IN DENALI & THE INTERIOR

Hiking the Dixie Pass Route

Start Dixie Pass Trailhead

End Dixie Pass Trailhead

Duration/Distance 3-4 days/24 miles

Difficulty Medium to hard

Even by Alaskan standards, Wrangell-St Elias National Park is a large tract of wilderness. At 20,625 sq miles, it’s the largest US national park, contains the most peaks over 14,500ft in North America and has the greatest concentration of glaciers on the continent.

Within this huge, remote park, Dixie Pass provides the best wilderness adventure that doesn’t require a bush-plane charter. The trek from the trailhead up to Dixie Pass and back is 24 miles. Plan to camp there at least one or two additional days to take in the alpine beauty and investigate the nearby ridges. Such an itinerary requires three or four days and is moderately hard.

You reach the Dixie Pass trailhead by hiking 2.5 miles up Kotsina Rd from Strelna and then another 1.3 miles along Kotsina Rd after the Nugget Creek Trail splits off to the northeast. The trailhead is on the right-hand side of Kotsina Rd; look for a marker.

The route begins as a level path for 3 miles to Strelna Creek, and then continues along the west side of the creek for another 3 miles to the first major confluence. After fording the creek, it’s 5 to 6 miles to the pass; along the way you’ll cross two more confluences and hike through an interesting gorge. The ascent to Dixie Pass is fairly easy to spot, and once there you’ll find superb scenery and alpine ridges to explore.

For transportation into the park, there’s Kennicott Shuttle, which runs a daily bus from Glennallen to McCarthy. With a round-trip Glennallen-to-McCarthy ticket ($149), the company will also drop off and pick up hikers at the Dixie Pass trailhead. Stop at the park headquarters in Copper Center to complete a backcountry trip itinerary and pick up USGS quadrangle maps.

If you’re into grand, sweeping landscapes, vast tracts of boreal forest, and fields of alpine tundra, welcome to paradise. All of these hikes are for experienced trekkers only.

HIKING THE CHENA DOME TRAIL

Start Upper Chena Dome Trailhead

End Upper Chena Dome Trailhead

Duration/Distance 3-4 days/29.5 MILES

Difficulty Hard

Fifty miles east of Fairbanks in the Chena River State Recreation Area, the 29.5-mile Chena Dome S loop trail makes an ideal three- or four-day alpine romp. The trail circles the Angel Creek drainage area, with the vast majority of it along tundra ridgetops above the treeline. That includes climbing Chena Dome, a flat-topped peak near Mile 10, which, at 4421ft, is the highest point of the trail. The scramble to the top is a steep affair, so get ready for a serious huff.

An intriguing aspect of the trek is the remains of a military plane that crashed into the ridge in the 1950s. The trail winds past the site near Mile 8.5. Other highlights are views from Chena Dome and picking blueberries in August. In clear, calm weather you can even see Denali from spots along the trail.

From either end of the trail, you’ll have to ascend for about 3 miles through pine forests before emerging past the treeline into open swathes of alpine tundra. From there, the trail follows the ridgelines – keep an eye out for cairns that mark the way.

Pack a stove (open fires aren’t permitted), and carry at least 3 quarts (3L) of water per person (refill bottles from small pools in the tundra). There’s a free-use shelter at Mile 17, while a 1.5-mile and 1900ft descent from the main trail will bring you to Upper Angel Creek Cabin, which can be used as a place to stay on the third night; reserve online with Alaska Division of Parks (http://dnr.alaska.gov/parks).

It’s easier to hike the loop by beginning at the northern trailhead at Mile 50.5, Chena Hot Springs Rd. The trailhead is 0.7 miles past Angel Creek Bridge. The southern trailhead is at Mile 49.

KESUGI RIDGE TRAIL

Start Little Coal Creek Trailhead

End Byers Lake Campground

Duration/Distance 3-4 days/27 miles

Difficulty Medium to hard

With Denali National Park offering no marked long-distance trails, aspiring hikers in search of a three- or four-day back-country adventure head south to smaller Denali State Park and the Kesugi Ridge/Troublesome Creek trail.

Established in 1970, 325,240-acre Denali State Park is more heavily forested than the national park and harbors Alaska’s largest concentration of black bears. Essentially a wilderness, the park is bisected north–south by the George Parks Hwy, making access to its various trailheads easy. The Kesugi Ridge trail forms the backbone of the park and is part of the Talkeetna Mountain Range. Averaging 3000ft to 4000ft above sea level, the ridge is situated above the treeline amid tundra landscapes speckled with small lakes; it offers what many claim to be the best views of Denali in the state.

Most hikers start at Little Coal Creek trailhead on the George Parks Hwy and proceed north to south. The initial 2.5-mile climb to the ridge on the Little Coal Creek trail is steep, but views of Denali will inspire you to dig deep. Once up on the ridge beware of sudden changes in weather. Most of the path is marked by intermittent cairns. After passing Eight-Mile Divide and Stonehenge Hill, you’ll encounter the intersection with the Ermine Hill trail, a handy escape hatch if you’re tired or weather-beaten.

Soon after this the path descends briefly below the treeline before ascending again to open tundra. Many hikers come off the ridge at the Cascade trail intersection, descending 3.4 miles through forest to the Byers Lake campground on the George Parks Hwy (27.4 miles total hike). If you wish to continue, descend on the Troublesome Creek trail, aptly named due to its regular wash-outs and large bear population. The final 6 miles are in forest. Check ahead for current trail status, and bring bear spray and mosquito repellent.

The four trailheads that give access to the Kesugi Ridge trail are all conveniently located on the arterial George Parks Hwy that runs between Anchorage and Fairbanks. They are Little Coal Creek (Mile 163.9), Ermine Hill (Mile 156.5), Byers Lake (Mile 147) and Upper Troublesome Creek (Mile 137.6). All have parking facilities. Alaska/Yukon Trails runs a regular shuttle bus along the George Parks Hwy and may be able to help out with transport if you can coordinate times beforehand.

PADDLING BEAVER CREEK

Start Ophir Creek Campground

End Victoria Creek

Duration/Distance 6-9days/111 miles

Difficulty Medium, Class I water

Beaver Creek is the adventure for budget travelers with time and a yearning to paddle through a roadless wilderness. The moderately swift stream, with long clear pools and frequent rapids, is rated Class I and can be handled by canoeists with expedition experience. The creek flows past hills forested with white spruce and paper birch below the jagged peaks of the White Mountains.

The scenery is spectacular, the chances of seeing another party remote and you’ll catch so much grayling you’ll never want to eat another one. You can also spend a night in the Borealis-Le Fevre Cabin, a BLM cabin on the banks of Beaver Creek, but on many a night, you’ll be utterly surrounded by pure wilderness.

To get there, at Mile 57 of Steese Hwy go north on US Creek Rd for 6 miles, then northwest on Nome Creek Rd to the Ophir Creek Campground. You can put in at Nome Creek and paddle to its confluence with Beaver Creek. Most paddlers plan on six to nine days to reach Victoria Creek, a 111-mile trip, where gravel bars are used by bush planes to land and pick up paddlers.

Those who continue their expedition, however, will stay on Beaver Creek as it spills into Yukon Flats National Wildlife Refuge and meanders through a marshy area. There are portions of river width here that are so large, paddlers may not see their opposite shores (the land you do spot may well be literal islands in the stream). Eventually the water flows north into the Yukon River, where, after two or three days, you’ll pass under the Yukon River Bridge on the Dalton Hwy and can be picked up there. This is a 399-mile paddle and a three-week expedition – the stuff great Alaskan adventures are made of.

WICKERSHAM DOME TRAIL

Start Elliot Hwy, Mile 28

End Elliot Hwy, Mile 28

Duration/Distance 1 day/7 miles

Difficulty Medium

Hiking in Alaska’s interior generally demands time and can be immensely challenging to novices, but the Wickersham Dome Trail is an excellent intermediate-difficulty track that you can tackle as an easy day trip from Fairbanks. On good days, this 7-mile out-and-back cops you great views of the region once you reach the eponymous dome. On any day, you’ll get a good taste of the boreal hinterland of interior Alaska.

The hike is located within the White Mountains, north of Fairbanks. Drive out to Mile 28 on the Elliot Hwy, where it splits from the Steese Hwy outside Fox, and look for the trailhead (Mile 28, Elliott Highway), which is marked by a signed parking area. The trail is pretty straightforward, and is part of the larger Summit Trail; going to Wickersham Dome makes for a solid day-trip option.

Relative to other hikes in the Interior, this trek is rewarding for the more casual hiker, but it still helps to be in decent shape before heading out. Wickersham Dome has an elevation of 1007ft (306m), and to get there, you’ll first have to undergo gradual but steady elevation gain. Along the way you’ll be surrounded by alpine vegetation, including gorgeous wildflowers and berry bushes. On that note, berry pickers often come here during the summer.

Eventually the trail coils around the crest of Wickersham Dome. This is the steepest huff, but once you make the top, you’ll have an uninterrupted view of the Interior rolling all the way to the Brooks Range (assuming it’s a clear day). Kick back, relax and remember the walk back to the parking area is downhill. Or continue along the Summit Trail, which crests similar ridges and has its own slate of sweet views.

Wickersham Dome Trail | AKPHOTOC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

History

If archaeologists are correct, Interior Alaska was the corridor through which the rest of the continent was peopled, as waves of hunter-gatherers migrated across the Bering land bridge to points south. Ancestors of the region’s present Alaska Native group, the Athabascans, are thought to have been here at least 6000 years.

It wasn’t until the 1800s that the first white people began to trickle in. The newcomers were mainly traders: Russians, who established posts along the lower Yukon and Kuskokwim Rivers; and Britons, who began trading at Fort Yukon, on the upper Yukon River, in the 1840s. Later came prospectors, whose discoveries transformed this region, beginning with the first major gold rush in the Fortymile district in the 1880s. Similar rushes, for gold and also copper, subsequently gave rise to many Interior communities.

Transportation projects brought the next wave of growth. In 1914 Congress agreed to fund the building of the USA’s northernmost railroad, from Seward to Fairbanks. At the peak of construction, 4500 workers labored along the route, and their base camps became boom towns.

Three decades later, during WWII, the building of the Alcan had the same effect on the eastern Interior. Tok and Delta Junction got their starts as highway construction camps, while Fairbanks saw a second boom in its economy and population. Another three decades after that came the biggest undertaking the Interior has ever seen: the laying of the $8 billion Trans-Alaska Pipeline, which transects Alaska, running from Valdez to the Arctic Ocean at Prudhoe Bay.

Dangers & Annoyances

Getting lost in the backcountry is a real possibility, as national and state parks, national forest and Bureau of Land Management (BLM) areas have few marked trails. Come prepared with a compass, topographic map, GPS (optional), enough food and water to get you by for a few extra days and, most importantly, the skills to use your equipment properly. Long sleeves and light pants will help fend off mosquitoes, while our bear tips should prevent any unpleasant encounters with these creatures. Glacier travel and mountaineering are dangerous endeavors. If you don’t know how to self-arrest and perform a crevasse rescue (or don’t know what these things are), you should go with a qualified guide.

Denali National Park & Preserve

In our collective consciousness, Alaska represents the concept of the raw wilderness. But that untamed perception can be as much a deterrent as a draw. For many travelers, in-depth exploration of this American frontier is a daunting task.

Enter Denali National Park & Preserve (%907-683-9532; www.nps.gov/dena; George Parks Hwy; $10; pc) S: a parcel of land both primeval and easily accessible. Here, you can peer at a grizzly bear, moose, caribou, or even wolves, all from the comfort of a bus. On the other hand, if independent exploration is your thing, you can trek into 6 million acres of tundra, boreal forest and ice-capped mountains – a space larger than Massachusetts. This all lies in the shadow of Denali, once known as Mt McKinley and to native Athabascans as the Great One. Denali is North America’s highest peak, rightly celebrated as an icon of all that is awesome and wild in a state where those adjectives are ubiquitous.

History

The Athabascan people used what is now Denali National Park & Preserve as hunting grounds, but it wasn’t until gold was found near Kantishna in 1905 that the area really began to see development. With the gold stampede came the big-game hunters, and things weren’t looking very good for this amazing stretch of wilderness until a noted hunter and naturalist, Charles Sheldon, came to town.

Sheldon, stunned by the destruction, mounted a campaign to protect the region. From this, Mt McKinley National Park was born. Later, as a result of the 1980 Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, the park was enlarged by 4 million acres, and renamed Denali National Park & Preserve.

In 1923, when the railroad arrived, 36 visitors enjoyed the splendor of the new park. Nowadays some 400,000 visitors are received annually. A number of unique visitor-management strategies has been created to deal with the masses, and generally they’ve been successful. The park today is still the great wilderness it was decades ago.

1Sights

`1`Park Road

Park Road begins at George Parks Hwy and winds 92 miles through the heart of the park, ending at Kantishna, an old mining settlement and the site of several wilderness lodges. Early on, park officials envisaged the onset of bumper-to-bumper traffic along this road and wisely closed almost all of it to private vehicles. During the summer, motorists can only drive to a parking area along the Savage River at Mile 15, one mile beyond the Savage River Campground. To venture further along the road you must walk, cycle, be part of a tour or, most popularly, take a park shuttle or tour bus.

It’s worth noting that you can still have an awesome Denali experience just by driving to the checkpoint that marks the end of car traffic. While wildlife isn’t as prevalent in this outer membrane of the park road, it’s not entirely absent either. The end of the line for car traffic is itself a suitably jaw-dropping river valley, so it’s not like you can’t find some great trekking areas in Denali’s drivable park area.

Still, the majority of visitors opt to enter the park via a shuttle or tour bus, and with good reason: as lovely as the park’s car zone is, the landscape beyond is simply one of the great wilderness spaces of North America. If you’re planning on spending the day riding the buses (it’s an eight-hour round-trip to the Eielson Visitor Center, the most popular day trip in the park), pack plenty of food and drink. It can be a long, dusty ride, and in the park there are only limited services at the Toklat River Contact Station and Eielson Visitor Center. Carry a park map so you know where you are and can scope out ridges or riverbeds that appeal for hiking.

DenaliMOUNTAIN

What makes 20,310ft Denali (formerly Mt McKinley) one of the world’s great scenic mountains is the sheer independent rise of its bulk. Denali begins at a base of just 2000ft, which means that on a clear day you will be transfixed by over 18,000 feet of ascending rock, ice and snow. By contrast, Mt Everest, no slouch itself when it comes to memorable vistas, only rises 12,000 feet from its base on the Tibetan Plateau.

Despite its lofty heights, the mountain is not visible from the park entrance or the nearby campgrounds and hotel. Your first glimpse of it comes between Mile 9 and Mile 11 on Park Rd – if you’re blessed with a clear day. The rule of thumb stressed by the National Park Service (NPS) rangers is that Denali is hidden two out of every three days, but that’s a random example – it could be clear for a week and then hidden for the next month. While the ‘Great One’ might not be visible for most of the first 15 miles of Park Rd, this is the best stretch to spot moose because of the proliferation of spruce and especially willow, the animal’s favorite food. The open flats before Savage River are good for spotting caribou and sometimes brown bears.

DENALI PLANNING GUIDE

Consider making reservations at least six months in advance for a park campsite during the height of summer, and at least three months ahead for accommodations outside the park. The park entrance fee is $10 per person, good for seven days.

There’s only one road through the park: the 92-mile unpaved Park Rd, which is closed to private vehicles after Mile 15 in summer. Shuttle buses run from the middle of May until September past Mile 15. Sometimes, if the snow melts early in April, visitors will be allowed to proceed as far as Mile 30 until the shuttle buses begin operation. The park entrance area, where most visitors congregate, extends a scant 4 miles up Park Rd. It’s here you’ll find the park headquarters, visitor center and main campground, as well as the Wilderness Access Center, where you pay your park entrance fee and arrange campsites and shuttle-bus bookings to take you further into the park. Across the lot from the WAC sits the Backcountry Information Center, where backpackers get backcountry permits and bear-proof food containers.

There are few places to stay within the park, excluding campgrounds, and only one restaurant. The majority of visitors base themselves in the nearby communities of Canyon, McKinley Village, Carlo Creek and Healy.

`1`Savage River to Eielson Visitor Center

From Savage River, the road dips into the Sanctuary and Teklanika Valleys, and Denali disappears behind the foothills. Igloo Creek Campground is the unofficial beginning of ‘bear country’.

After passing through the canyon formed by the Igloo and Cathedral Mountains, the road ascends to 3880ft Sable Pass (Mile 39.05). The canyon and surrounding mountains are excellent places to view Dall sheep, while the pass is known as a prime habitat for Toklat brown bears.

Given the prevalence of big brown bears and other wildlife, the area around Sable Pass is permanently closed to hikers and backpackers. From here, the road drops to the bridge over the East Fork Toklat River (Mile 44). Hikers can trek from the bridge along the riverbanks both north and south.

Polychrome Pass Overlook (Mile 46, Park Rd) is a rest stop for the shuttle buses, and is named for its exposed bands of multihued rock strata. This scenic area, at 3500ft, has the sort of dramatic views of the Toklat River that will inevitably win over all of your social media followers, plus trails and social paths that lead to the ridgelines. If you’re nervous about making a steep ascent to high altitude, this is a good jump-off point, as the pass is pretty elevated.

In contrast, the next major stop for shuttle buses, the Toklat River Contact Station (Mile 53, Park Rd; h9am-7pm late May–mid-Sep) SF, is a deep valley depression. Here you’ll find toilets and a large tented store selling books and souvenirs (ready to hike into the park? Don’t forget a plush grizzly bear puppet!), as well as scopes to check out Dall sheep on the neighboring hills. Again, this is a good jumping-off point for hikers – while you’re not on top of the ridges, you’ll still have incredible views of them from the Toklat riverbed, which also attracts local wildlife.

Eielson Visitor Center (%907-683-9532; www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/the-eielson-visitor-center.htm; Mile 66, Park Rd; h9am-7pm Jun–mid-Sep) F, on the far side of Thorofare Pass (3900ft), is the most common turning-around point for day-trippers taking the shuttle or tour buses into the park. While it’s undoubtedly a remote spot – and a dramatic one, wedged into the side of the mountain like a north-country Frank Lloyd Wright installation – it’s also a well-appointed visitor facility, with helpful rangers onsite and plenty of interpretive displays (and toilets: sweet, sweet, toilets). A walkway extends around the center, affording mind-boggling views of the Toklat River, nearby mountains and, if the weather gods are smiling upon you, Denali itself. There’s also a mountain viewing area within the visitor center with a helpful diagram of the ranges.

From Eielson, you’ll find trails leading down to the bed of the river and up to the ridgelines that buttress the mountains. There’s also a very easy loop trail (around half a mile, with nary an elevation gain) that leads out to a tongue of land, once again offering the sort of views you’ve only seen on the covers of paperback fantasy novels.

`1`Eielson to Kantishna

Past Eielson, Park Rd drops to the valley, passing a sign for Muldrow Glacier (Mile 74.4). At this point, the glacier lies about a mile to the south, and the terminus of the 32-mile floe of ice is clearly visible, though you might not recognize it because the ice is covered with a mat of plant life. If the weather is cloudy and the mountain and the surrounding peaks are hidden, the final 20 miles of the bus trip are still an enjoyable ride through rolling tundra, passing small glacier-made lakes known as kettle ponds. Study the pools of water carefully to spot beavers or waterfowl.

Wonder Lake Campground, only 26 miles from Denali, sees the beauty of the mountain doubled on a clear day as the peak reflects in the lake’s surface. Sadly, the heavy demand for the 28 campsites and the numerous overcast days caused by Denali itself prevent the majority of visitors from ever seeing this remarkable panorama. If you do experience the reddish sunset on the summit reflecting in the lake’s still waters, cherish the moment.

The campground is on a low rise above the lake’s southern end. The famous McKinley-reflected-in-the-lake photos are taken along the northeast shore, 2 miles beyond the campground.

Kantishna (Mile 90) is mainly a destination for people staying in the area’s private lodges. The buses turn around here after a 40-minute rest, and begin the long trip back to the Wilderness Access Centre.

Denali National Park Entrance Area

2Activities, Courses & Tours

1 Denali ATV AdventuresA1

2Denali Jeep ExcursionA2

3Denali Outdoor CenterA1

4Denali Park ZiplineA1

Denali Raft Adventures(see 3)

5Era HelicoptersD2

6Mt Healy Overlook TrailC3

7Murie Science & Learning CenterC3

8Sled-Dog DemonstrationsA4

4Sleeping

9Crow’s NestA2

10Denali Bluffs HotelD2

11Denali Park Salmon Bake Restaurant & CabinsA2

12Denali Princess Wilderness LodgeA2

13Grande Denali LodgeD2

14Riley Creek CampgroundD3

5Eating

15Black Bear Coffee HouseA1

Denali Park Salmon Bake(see 11)

Moose-AKa’s(see 3)

16Morino GrillC3

17Overlook Bar & GrillA2

18Prospectors Pizzeria & Ale HouseA1

19Riley Creek MercantileD3

7Shopping

Alaska Geographic Bookstore(see 16)

Cannabis Cache(see 3)

Denali Mountain Works(see 3)

2Activities

Denali Outdoor CenterOUTDOORS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %888-303-1925; www.denalioutdoorcenter.com; Mile 238.9, George Parks Hwy)

You can rent bicycles (half/full day $25/40) at this Canyon fixture, go on a kayak or raft tour (from $94), take white-water kayaking classes (from $65), and generally sup on the buffet of outdoor activities that is the Denali region. A professional outfit with years of experience and good customer service.

Wildlife Watching

Because hunting has never been allowed in the park, professional photographers refer to animals in Denali as ‘approachable wildlife.’ That means bear, moose, Dall sheep and caribou aren’t as skittish here as in other regions of the state. For this reason, and because Park Rd was built to maximize the chances of seeing wildlife by traversing high open ground, the park is an excellent place to view a variety of animals.

On board the park shuttle buses, your fellow passengers will be armed with binoculars and cameras to help scour the terrain for animals, most of which are so accustomed to the rambling buses that they rarely run and hide. When someone spots something and yells ‘Stop!’, the driver will pull over for viewing and picture taking. The best wildlife watching is on the first morning bus.

ABears In the area of the park that most people visit (north of the Alaska Range), there are an estimated 300 to 350 grizzly bears and around 200 black bears. Grizzlies tend to inhabit tundra areas, while black bears stick to the forests. With most of Denali’s streams fed by glaciers, the fishing is poor and bears must rely on vegetation for 85% of their diet. As a result, most male grizzlies here range from only 300lb to 600lb, while their cousins on the salmon-rich coasts can easily top 1000lb. There’s no guarantee of seeing a grizzly, but most park bus drivers say they spot around five to eight per day along the road.

AMoose Around 1800 moose roam the park, and they are almost always found in stands of spruce and willow shrubs (their favorite food). Backpackers should be wary when plowing blindly through areas of thick ground cover, especially in early September, when the bulls clash over breeding rights to the cows. Make no mistake: a moose can be just as dangerous as a bear.

ACaribou All the park’s caribou belong to the Denali herd – one of 32 herds in Alaska – which presently numbers around 1760 animals. The best time to spot caribou in large groups is late summer, when the animals begin to band in anticipation of the fall migration. They’re often spotted earlier in summer in small bands on the hillsides. Look for unusual patches of white that just don’t seem to belong there.

AWolves Consider yourself lucky if you spot a wolf in the park. Denali is home to a fluctuating population, with approximately 50 to 70 wolves living in the 10 packs currently being monitored. In summer, wolf packs are less likely to travel in a large group because they center their activity around a den or rendezvous site, with one or more adults often remaining there with the pups.

AOther Species In addition to moose, caribou, wolves and bears, Denali is home to 33 other species of mammal – including wolverines, mice and Dall sheep – as well as 159 varieties of bird (such as the golden eagle, tundra swan, rock ptarmigan, jaeger and great horned owl), 10 types of fish and a lone amphibian, the wood frog.

Ranger-Led Activities

If you’re hesitant about venturing into the wilds on your own, or merely looking to kill some time until your desired back-country unit opens, Denali offers a daily slate of worthwhile free ranger-led hikes and presentations. See www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/ranger-programs.htm for more information.

Discovery HikesHIKING

(%907-683-9532; www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/discovery-hikes.htm; hJun 8-Sep)

National Park Service (NPS) rangers lead moderate to strenuous three- to five-hour hikes deep into the heart of the park on a daily basis during summer. The location varies from day to day; you can find the schedule at the Denali Visitor Center or online. Sign up at the center one or two days in advance and then reserve a shuttle ticket at the WAC.

Shuttles leave at 8am. Note that hiking is off trail, so be sure to have sturdy footwear and to pack rain gear, food and water. Rangers will turn away unprepared hikers. This is an all-day affair; the bus ride to the hiking departure point can take up to four hours, to hike for three to five hours, and then a similar-length bus ride back to the park entrance.

Sled-Dog DemonstrationsDOG SLEDDING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/sled-dog-demonstrations.htm; Park Headquarters; h10am, 2pm & 4pm May–mid-Sep) F

Denali is the only US national park where rangers conduct winter patrols with dog teams. In summer the huskies serve a different purpose: amusing and educating the legions of tourists who sign up for the park’s free daily tours of the sled-dog kennels, and dog demonstrations. During warm months, the dogs briefly pull rangers in an ATV for the crowds.

SCALING THE MOUNTAIN

So, has gazing at lordly Mt McKinley – sorry, Denali – from the seat of an aircraft infected you with summit fever?

If so, you’re suffering from a century-old sickness. James Wickersham, the US district judge in Alaska, made the first documented attempt to scale Denali, reaching the 7500ft mark of the 20,310ft peak in 1903. His effort inspired a rash of ensuing bids, including Dr Frederick Cook’s 1906 effort (which he falsely claimed was a success) and the 1910 Sourdough Expedition, where four Fairbanks miners, carrying only hot chocolate, doughnuts and a 14ft spruce pole, topped out on the North Peak only to realize it was 850ft lower than the true, more southerly summit.

Success finally came in 1913 when Hudson Stuck, Henry Karstens, Robert Tatum and Walter Harper reached the top on June 7. From there they saw the spruce pole on the North Peak to verify the claims of the Sourdough Expedition.

The most important date for many climbers, however, is 1951. That year, Bradford Washburn arrived and pioneered the West Buttress route, by far the preferred avenue to the top. Not long after, Talkeetna’s two most famous characters – Ray ‘the Pirate’ Genet and Don Sheldon – began to have an impact on the climbing world. Genet was an Alaskan mountaineer who made a record 25 climbs up Denali, while Sheldon was a legendary glacier pilot. The two worked closely in guiding climbers to the top and, more importantly, rescuing those who failed. Sadly, the town lost both in quick succession, with Sheldon dying of cancer in 1975 and Genet freezing to death on Mt Everest four years later.

Nowadays, Denali’s storied mountaineering history adds considerably to the mythic business of scaling the peak. Between 1200 and 1300 climbers attempt it each year, spending an average of three weeks on the slopes. About 80% use the West Buttress route, which involves flying in a ski plane from Talkeetna to the 7200ft Kahiltna Glacier and from there climbing for the South Peak, passing a medical/rescue camp maintained by mountaineering clubs and the National Park Service (NPS) at 14,220ft.

In a good season (April through July), when storms are not constantly sweeping across the range, more than 50% of expeditions will be successful. In a bad year, that rate falls below 40%, and several climbers may die. Particularly grim was the annus horribilis of 1991, when 11 lives were lost.

The most solemn way to appreciate the effect of the mountain is to visit the cemetery in Talkeetna, a restful spot set among tall trees on 2nd St, just off Talkeetna Spur Rd near the airport. Don Sheldon’s grave is the most prominent, with the epitaph ‘He wagered with the wind and won.’ The Mt McKinley Climber’s Memorial includes a stone for Ray Genet, despite the fact that his body was never removed from the slopes of Mt Everest. The most touching sight, however, is a memorial with the names and ages of all the climbers who’ve died on Denali and neighboring peaks.

If you’re a seasoned alpinist you can mount an expedition yourself, or be among the 25% of Denali climbers who are part of guided ascents. If you’re looking for a local guiding company, try Alaska Mountaineering School, which charges $8300 to lead you up the mountain. Another acclaimed company with a high success rate is Seattle-based Alpine Ascents (%206-378-1927; www.alpineascents.com). Its trips start at $8400 excluding meals, lodging and flights to Alaska. Book at least a year in advance.

Day-Hiking

Even for those who have neither the desire nor the equipment for an overnight trek, hiking is the best way to enjoy the park and to see the land and its wildlife. You can hike virtually anywhere that hasn’t been closed to prevent an impact on wildlife.

For a day-hike (which doesn’t require a permit), ride the shuttle bus and get off at any valley, riverbed or ridge that grabs your fancy. Check in at the Backcountry Information Center or Wilderness Access Center for suggestions.

Here’s an important reminder for shuttle bus riders: while you can hop on any shuttle bus heading back to the park gates, those buses are often packed. It’s generally easier to get yourself on a bus if you try to board at a recognized bus stop (Toklat River, Polychrome Pass, the Eielson Visitor Center, etc), where your name will be placed on a list and park staff will do what they can to get you on board. While many people flag a bus down from the road on a daily basis, you may well find yourself waiting for hours in cold rain for a bus with an empty seat. Obviously, the larger your group, the greater the risk of finding a bus with no room.

Park Entrance AreaHIKING

(www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/dayhiking.htm)

A few short, well-maintained trails web the park entrance area.

The Horseshoe Lake Trail, accessed by the railroad crossing at Mile 1.2 of Park Rd, is a leisurely 1.5-mile walk through the woods to the lake overlook, followed by a steep trail to the water’s edge and beaver dam at the end. The Taiga Loop Trail, also commencing from the railroad tracks, turns west from the Horseshoe Lake Trail and leads to both the Mt Healy Overlook Trail and the Rock Creek Trail.

The moderate, 2.3-mile Rock Creek Trail leads west to the Park Headquarters and dog kennels. You can hike this trail downhill from the headquarters end, where the trail begins just before Park Rd. From here it crosses Rock Creek but doesn’t stay with the stream. Instead, it climbs a gentle slope of mixed aspen and spruce forest, breaks out along a ridge with scenic views of Mt Healy and George Parks Hwy and then begins a rapid descent to its end at the Taiga Loop Trail.

The Roadside Trail parallels Park Rd and takes you 1.5 miles from the Denali Visitor Center to the dog kennels next to the park headquarters. The 1.6-mile McKinley Station Trail takes you from the visitor center to the Wilderness Access Centre and also connects with the Jonesville Trail to Canyon.

Mt Healy Overlook TrailHIKING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/overlook.htm)

This is the longest maintained trail in the park’s entrance area, and is proof that even at the entrance, there’s some great wilderness hiking to be found. One of the steepest official hikes in the park, it yields some fantastic views from the top of Mt Healy. Plan on the route taking three to five hours.

The trail veers off the Taiga Loop Trail and makes a steep climb up Mt Healy, ascending 1700ft in 2.5 miles.

Although you begin in a forest of spruce, alder and aspen, higher up you enter alpine tundra – a world of moss, lichen, wildflowers and incredible views. Keep an eye out for the large hoary marmots (a northern cousin of the groundhog) and pikas (a small relative of the rabbit).

From the overlook (3425ft), hardy hikers can climb another mile to the high point of Healy Ridge (4217ft), or another 2 miles to the summit of Mt Healy (5714ft).

Triple Lakes TrailHIKING

(www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/triple.htm)

When it opened in 2011, this 9.5-mile trail (four to five hours one- way) quickly gained a reputation as the entrance area’s best day hike, as well as the longest official trail in the park. The terrain and vegetation are more varied than on other trails, and there’s a palpable feeling that you’ve truly entered the wilds.

From the McKinley Station Trail the path begins after a bridge crossing of Hines Creek. The trail is flat at first and the forest cover unusually lush. In about a mile you begin to climb switchbacks, eventually reaching a ridgetop affording yodel-inspiring views of the Alaska Range and the valleys formed by Hines Creek and the Nenana River.

After a long run along the ridgeline, the path begins to descend, first to the Triple Lakes and then to George Parks Hwy. After crossing the highway bridge, it’s a short walk to McKinley Village Lodge, where you can catch a shuttle ($5) back to the Denali Visitor Center.

Savage Alpine TrailHIKING

(%907-683-9532; www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/dayhiking.htm)

This 4-mile trail begins at Savage River (Mile 15), ascends 1200ft to a windy alpine ridge with fabulous views and descends to the new Mountain Vista day-use area (Mile 13), where you can catch a park shuttle.

Savage River Loop TrailHIKING

(www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/savagecanyon.htm)

You can get to this trailhead by car (Mile 14), but you’re better off taking the free Savage River Shuttle Bus as the small parking lot often fills up. The 2-mile loop is wheelchair accessible for the first half mile and runs north from Park Rd on either side of the river.

A MOUNTAIN BY ANY OTHER NAME

The Athabascans called it Denali or the ‘Great One’. Their brethren to the south in the Susitna Valley called it Doleika, the ‘Big Mountain’. The Aleuts meanwhile referred to it as Traleika. The first European to spot the peak, George Vancouver, didn’t bother to call it anything, while Ferdinand von Wrangell, a prominent Russian administrator in the 19th century, wrote ‘Tenada’ on his maps. So why was North America’s highest peak called McKinley for over a century?

During the gold-rush days, the mountain was known locally as Densmore’s Mountain, in honor of a local prospector. But soon afterwards, it was dubbed Mt McKinley for William McKinley, an Ohioan who was running for – and later became – president of the United States. This was no high-minded attempt to commemorate McKinley’s political legacy; the man who came up with the name, William Dickey, was a gold miner who wanted to flip the bird at rival silver miners. McKinley ran for office against William Jennings Bryan, a politician who wanted to use silver instead of gold as the backing standard for American currency. McKinley was a strong defender of the gold standard – as was, unsurprisingly, Dickey the gold prospector, who was known for getting into arguments with silver miners. Rarely has such a grand natural feature been named with such petty motivation.

In 1975, the state of Alaska, via its Board of Geographic Names, changed the name of the mountain to Denali, and sent an official request to Washington DC asking for the nation to do the same. That authority is vested in the United States Board on Geographic Names, but the agency had its hands tied by Ohio congress members and senators (remember, William McKinley was from Ohio), who apparently thought the federal government was slacking when it came to insulting Native Americans.

This impasse continued until 2015, when then president Barack Obama ordered his Secretary of the Interior, Sally Jewell, to rename the mountain ‘Denali’. The Secretary of the Interior has the power to name geographic features if the Board of Geographic Names is dragging its heels, and apparently 40 years qualifies. Some Ohio Republicans opposed the rename, while Alaskans (and most of the rest of the universe) felt like the mountain finally had a name worthy of its grandeur.

Backpacking

The park is divided into 87 backcountry units, and for 41 of these only a regulated number of backpackers (usually four to six) are allowed in at a time. You may spend a maximum of seven nights in any one unit, and a maximum of 30 consecutive nights in the backcountry. For more information download A Denali Backpacking Guide from the national park’s website (www.nps.gov/dena).

Permits are needed if you want to camp overnight and you can obtain these at the Backcountry Information Center (BIC; MAP; %907-683-9532/90; Mile 0.5, Park Rd; h9am-6pm late May–mid-Sep), where you’ll also find wall maps with the unit outlines and a quota board indicating the number of vacancies in each. Permits are issued only a day in advance, and the most popular units fill up fast. It pays to be flexible: decide which areas you’re aiming for, and be prepared to take any zone that’s open. If you’re picky, you might have to wait several days.

After you’ve decided where to go, the next step is to watch the required backcountry orientation video, followed by a brief safety talk that covers, among other things, proper use of the bear-resistant food containers (BRFCs) you’ll receive free of charge with your permit. The containers are bulky, but they work – they’ve reduced bear encounters dramatically since 1986. It’s also worth noting that you’re required to carry out dirty toilet paper (you bury your waste), so be sure to take at least a dozen ziplock bags. Finally, after receiving your permit, buy the topographic maps ($8) for your unit and head over to the WAC to purchase a ticket for a camper bus ($34) to get you out to the starting point of your hike.

For an overview of the different units in the park, check out the park’s website for the brilliant Backcountry Camping and Hiking Guide. Its unit-by-unit descriptions include access points, possible hiking corridors, dangers and, maybe best of all, pictures from the area.

Cycling

No special permit is needed to cycle on Park Rd, but cycling off-road is prohibited. Camper buses and some shuttle buses will carry bicycles, but only two at a time and only if you have a reservation. Many cyclists ride the bus in and cycle back out, carrying their gear and staying at campsites they’ve reserved along the way. It’s also possible to take an early morning bus in, ride for several hours and catch a bus back the same day. The highest point on the road is Highway Pass (3980ft). The entrance area is at 1585ft. Note that the park road is narrow, but buses are used to cyclists, and drivers generally do a grand job of giving riders a decent berth.

Ziplining

Denali Park ZiplineOUTDOORS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-2947; www.denalizipline.com; 238 George Parks Hwy; adult/child $139/99)

This well-regarded course will take you across six sky bridges and seven zip lines that whoosh over the boreal forest and swathes of tundra. The entire adventure takes around three hours.

CCourses

Murie Science & Learning CenterOUTDOORS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.nps.gov/rlc/murie; Mile 1.5, Park Rd; h9am-4:30pm May–mid-Sep; c) S

Representing eight of Alaska’s arctic and subarctic parks, this center is the place to come for information on research taking place within the park and around the state. During the summer there are presentations and half-day ‘Denali-ology’ courses, as well as multiday field seminars (coordinated with Alaska Geographic), teacher training and youth camps.

Denali Education CenterADVENTURE SPORTS

(%907-683-2597; www.denali.org; Mile 231, George Parks Hwy; c) S

This enthusiastic nonprofit outfit offers day and extended educational backpacking programs, including a number specifically designed for seniors and youths.

THE STAMPEDE TRAIL AND THE MAGIC BUS

The Stampede Trail was an overgrown, semi-abandoned mining road in April 1992 when an idealistic 24-year-old wanderer called Chris McCandless made camp in an abandoned bus west of Healy, equipped with little more than a rifle, 10lb of rice and a copy of Louis L’Amour’s Education of a Wandering Man in his bag. His quest: to attempt to survive on his own in the unforgiving Alaskan wilderness.

McCandless’ death a few months later, in August 1992, was famously chronicled in the book Into the Wild by Jon Krakauer in 1996. But it was Sean Penn’s cinematic rendering of the book in 2007 that brought the story to international attention and turned the Stampede Trail and the so-called ‘Magic Bus’ into a pilgrimage site for a stream of romantic young backpackers.

The deluge of hikers has led to problems. Thanks to two dangerous river crossings along the Stampede Trail’s muddy if relatively flat route, some of the amateur hikers have found they’ve bitten off more than they can chew. As a result, search-and-rescue teams are called out five or six times a year to aid stranded or disorientated travelers and, in 2010, a Swiss woman tragically drowned while trying to cross the Teklanika River.

Today the Magic Bus – a 1946 International Harvester (number 142) abandoned by road builders in 1961 – continues to sit incongruously amid the taiga-tundra in an increasingly deteriorating state. A plaque in memory of McCandless adorns the faded interior, which is filled with graffiti scribbled by travelers from around the world inspired by his story. Many of them stay the night inside.

If you’re hiking to the bus, it’s approximately 28 miles from the start of the Stampede Trail, which begins 2 miles north of Healy (the first 8 miles are accessible in a vehicle). Go prepared, preferably in a group, and take extreme precautions when crossing the Savage and Teklanika Rivers (and if they’re flowing high, don’t cross them at all). Bears are common in the area and the mosquitoes are savage. Alternatively, you can take an ATV tour along the trail in summer, or head out in winter on a dogsledding trip from EarthSong Lodge.

A replica of bus 142 sits outside the 49th State Brewing Company in Healy.

TTours

Some travelers confuse Denali’s shuttle buses and tour buses. The former are purely for getting around the park. The latter ply the same routes, but with drivers who give narrated tours. If you’re lucky and get a congenial driver on a park shuttle, you can get the lowdown on what’s what without paying the extra cost of a tour.

Narrated tours include a packed lunch. See www.nps.gov/dena for more information and www.reservedenali.com for reservations.

AramarkNATURAL HISTORY, WILDLIFE

(%800-622-7275; www.reservedenali.com)

Offers a variety of natural-history and wildlife tours throughout the park.

Tundra Wilderness TourWILDLIFE

(%800-622-7275; www.reservedenali.com; adult/child $112.75/51.50) S

This narrated bus tour is a seven- to eight-hour trip that heads to the Toklat River (at Mile 53) and focuses on wildlife viewing. That endeavor is aided by the presence of dropdown video screens on the bus – your driver will take footage of the local wildlife and project said content onto the screens.

Natural History TourECOTOUR

(%800-622-7275; www.reservedenali.com; adult/child $80.75/35.50)

This four- to five-hour trip rolls out to the Teklanika River (Mile 30) and includes multiple stops focusing on the park’s history and ecosystems. At Primrose Ridge, you’ll get to see an Alaskan Native presentation on indigenous land stewardship.

ATVs

Denali ATV AdventuresADVENTURE

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-4288; www.denaliatv.com; Mile 238.6, George Parks Hwy; 2hr one-/two-person ATV tours from $115/175)

This friendly outfit offers four different butt-busting rides on all-terrain vehicles in the surrounding wilderness (two tours are offered year-round, and two are seasonal). Note that you’re not allowed to make this kind of cacophony in the national park. Instead, the trips skirt the park’s fringes.

There’s a ton of add-on cross-experience tours available; you can combine an ATV trip with a zipline experience, a visit to a husky kennel, etc. Visit the website for more details.

Flightseeing

Most flightseeing tours around Denali leave from Talkeetna, but some companies also operate out of the park area.

Era HelicoptersSCENIC FLIGHTS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-2574; www.eraflightseeing.com; Mile 238, George Parks Hwy)

Will take you up on a 35-minute Denali tour ($411) or a 50-minute flight that includes a glacier landing ($525). Heli-hiking trips are also available. The helipad is on the northern side of the Nenana River Bridge, at the southern end of Canyon.

Kantishna Air TaxiSCENIC FLIGHTS

(%907-644-8222; www.katair.com)

Based at Skyline Lodge, this operation flies out of Kantishna, the park entrance and Anchorage. Hour-long flightseeing excursions around Denali are $270 per person from Kantishna.

River Rafting

Thanks to Denali tourists, the Nenana River is the most popular white-water-rafting area in Alaska. The river’s main white-water stretch begins near the park entrance and ends 10 miles north, near Healy. It’s rated class III and IV, and involves standing waves, rapids and holes with names such as ‘Coffee Grinder’ in sheer-sided canyons. South of the park entrance, the river is much milder, but to many it’s just as interesting as it veers away from both the highway and the railroad, increasing your chances of sighting wildlife.

Rafting companies offer similar guided trips on both stretches, in which either the guide does all the work or you help paddle. Advance reservations (no deposit) are accepted, and all trips include dry suits and shuttle pick-ups. The canyon and the easier ‘wilderness’ paddles go for about $95, and last around three hours.

Denali Raft AdventuresRAFTING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-2234; www.denaliraft.com; Mile 238.6 George Parks Hwy; trips from $94)

Saunter down the Nenana River between Canyon and Healy on class II to IV rapids with this well-regarded, experienced outfitter. It offers five trips aimed at all levels of experience.

4Sleeping

You should definitely reserve something in midsummer – even if it’s just a campsite – before showing up. Note the Denali Borough charges a 7% accommodations tax on top of listed prices (except for campsites). High-end accommodation in and around the park generally feels overpriced, as you’re often at the mercy of select concessionaires.

`4`Within the Park

Kantishna excepted, lodgings are not available inside park boundaries, so if you want overnight shelter within the park you’ll need a tent or RV (recreational vehicle).

oWonder Lake CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(www.nps.gov/dena; Mile 85, Park Rd; tent sites $16) S

This is the jewel of Denali campgrounds, thanks to its eye-popping views of the mountain. The facility has 28 sites for tents only, but does offer flush toilets and piped-in water. If you’re lucky enough to reserve a site, book it for three nights and then pray that Denali appears during one of the days you’re there.

Teklanika River CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(www.nps.gov/dena; Mile 29, Park Rd; campsites $25; p) S

There are 53 sites, flush toilets, piped-in water and evening programs at this campground, popular with tenters, RVers and the occasional wolf or two.

You can drive to the campground, which is located past Mile 15, but you must stay a minimum of three days if you do, and you can’t use your vehicle until you’re ready to return to the park entrance. For $35, you can buy a Tek Pass that allows you to access the park bus system.

Sanctuary River CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(www.nps.gov/dena; Mile 22, Park Rd; tent sites $15) S

This official park campground is nicely set on the banks of a large glacial river in an area that is great for day-hiking. The seven sites can only be reserved in person at the WAC two days in advance, and there’s no piped-in water.

Riley Creek CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.nps.gov/dena; Mile 0.25, Park Rd; tent sites $24, RV sites $24-30) S

At the park’s main entrance, and within earshot of George Parks Hwy, this is Denali’s largest and most developed campground. It’s open year-round and has 147 sites for tents and RVs, piped-in water, flush toilets and evening interpretive programs. Walk-ins have their own section in C lot.

The location is convenient for access to Riley Creek Mercantile, the WAC, visitor center and many hikes.

Savage River CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(www.nps.gov/dena; Mile 14, Park Rd; campsites $24-30) S

Despite its name, this park campground is a mile short of the eponymous river and close to the new Mountain Vista rest area. It’s one of only two campgrounds with a view of the mountain. The 32 sites can accommodate both RVs and tents, with such amenities as flush toilets, piped-in water and evening presentations.

Igloo Creek CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(www.nps.gov/dena; Mile 34, Park Rd; tent sites $15) S

This small, waterless, seven-site camping area marks the beginning of true bear country. The day-hiking around here is excellent, especially the numerous ridges around Igloo and Cathedral Mountains that provide routes into alpine areas.

Sites can only be reserved in person at the WAC two days in advance.

`4`Kantishna

Park Rd ends at this privately owned island of land, an old gold-mining enclave that was outside the park’s original boundary but was enveloped by additions in 1980. Kantishna provides the ultimate lodging location. Many options include meals and round-trip transportation from the park entrance.

Skyline LodgeLODGE$$$

(%907-644-8222; www.katair.com/skyline-lodge; s/d $364.25/434.25)

This five-room, solar-powered lodge serves as Kantishna Air Taxi’s base of operations. Guests have use of a common area, dining room, bath and shower block, and decks overlooking the Kantishna Valley. Add $70 per person for three meals a day.

Camp DenaliLODGE$$$

(%907-683-2290; www.campdenali.com; cabins per person without bath per minimum 3-night stay $1800) S

Verging on legendary, Camp Denali has been the gold standard among Kantishna lodges for the last half century. Widely spread across a ridgeline, the camp’s simple, comfortable cabins elegantly complement the backcountry experience while minimizing impact on the natural world.

Think of it as luxury camping, with gourmet meals, guided hikes, free bicycle and canoe rentals, killer views of the mountain, and staff so devoted to Denali that you’ll come away feeling like the beneficiary of a precious gift. If you can’t handle the outhouses or the seven-minute walk to the bathroom, book the nearby, affiliated North Face Lodge (s/d $725/1250) with en-suite rooms for the same price.

Kantishna RoadhouseLODGE$$$

(%907-374-3041; www.kantishnaroadhouse.com; d incl meals per person $427) S

Owned by park concessionaire Doyon, Kantishna Roadhouse has clean modern cabins, a beautiful dining room, bar and guided activities. Room rates include round-trip transport from the park entrance and various guided activities. Note there is a two-day minimum stay and draconian cancellation policies.

Denali Backcountry LodgeLODGE$$$

(%888-602-3323; www.alaskacollection.com/lodging/denali-backcountry-lodge; cabins incl meals per person from $545)

The last lodge on Park Rd, this is a great-looking place on the banks of Moose Creek with comfortable modern cabins and common areas. Transport, meals and guided activities are included. The setting is as beautiful as the cabins are pricey.

`4`Canyon

Canyon is as close as the Denali area comes to a ‘village’. In essence, it’s a convenient service center consisting of a thin strip of wooden shops, accommodations, gas stations and stores clustered either side of the George Parks Hwy, roughly a mile north of the park entrance area (a walking path links the two). The western side of the road is dominated by two cruise-line-owned hotels, including the Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge. The eastern side harbors a skinny line of shops, restaurants and outdoor-adventure specialists.

Denali Park Salmon Bake Restaurant & CabinsCABIN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-2733; www.denalinationalparklodging.net; Mile 238.5, George Parks Hwy; cabins without/with bath from $74/149; pW)

These standard cabins come with TV, heater and bath, and are on the dingy side of clean. The economy rooms have shared bathroom and a shingle exterior with a white tarpaulin roof cover, giving the place a bit of a work-camp atmosphere. Notwithstanding, Salmon Bake is a big player in Canyon, running a popular bar, restaurant and shuttle bus.

For a step up in quality (and price), these folks also operate the Crow’s Nest cabins.

Denali Princess Wilderness LodgeHOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %800-426-0500; www.princesslodges.com; Mile 238.5 George Parks Hwy; r from $249; pW)

The high-roofed, perennially busy reception hall at this giant ‘lodge’ carries the slightly antiseptic essence of a cruise ship, which is fitting as 80% of its guests are cruisers bussed up from the coast. The splayed grounds constitute a medium-sized resort overlooking the choppy Nenana River and exhibit multiple restaurants, shops, hot tubs and accommodations blocks.

It’s all very comprehensive, but oddly lacking in soul. Then again, there are places around the park that charge around this much for four walls and a pit toilet, so if comfort’s your thing, go for it.

Crow’s NestCABIN$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-2723; www.denalicrowsnestcabins.com; Mile 238.5, George Parks Hwy; cabins $249-299; W)

Rustic but proud might describe the feel of the Nest’s rooms, arranged in terraced rows that afford better and better views the higher you go. Beds are fluffy and comfortable and cabins have pleasant terraces and en-suite bathrooms. The lodge runs a free shuttle bus into the park (5am to 10pm).

Grande Denali LodgeHOTEL$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %855-683-8600; www.denalialaska.com; r $399-479; pW)

The pro here is the location, perched like an eagle’s nest over the George Parks Hwy and high above the cacophony of Canyon. The con is the price, which doesn’t really match the plain, unimaginative rooms. Solution: linger in the lodge’s comfy communal areas and admire the stupendous view.

The affiliated Denali Bluffs Hotel (MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.denalialaska.com/denali-bluffs-hotel; Mile 238, George Parks Hwy; r $300-380; W) is further down the hillside.

`4`McKinley Village

Six miles south of the park entrance, McKinley Village (Mile 229–231, George Parks Hwy) sits at a cozy bend of the Nenana River. Though small, the area is far less commercialized than Canyon and is served by a courtesy bus ($5, 6am to 10pm) running between the Denali Park Village lodge (in McKinley Village), Canyon and the park’s visitor center and WAC. If you need to withdraw money, Denali Park Village has an ATM in the lobby.

Denali Grizzly Bear ResortCABIN$$

(%866-583-2696; www.denaligrizzlybear.com; Mile 231.1, George Parks Hwy; campsites $27, tent cabins $38-44, dry cabins $78-105, cabins $122-329, hotel r $249; W)

The ‘Grizzly’ spans pretty much every price range and configuration, including wooded campsites by the Nenana River, platform tent-cabins, and well-spaced cabins in various styles. Some cabins are modern and come with private bath, river views and kitchen, while others have tons of Alaskan character (including one log cabin that was dismantled and brought in from Fairbanks).

There’s also the on-site Cedar Hotel, with river-facing rooms and cabin-like interiors. Note that dry cabins do not have running water or toilets. Communal amenities include hot showers and laundry facilities.

Denali Park VillageLODGE$$$

(%800-276-7234; www.denaliparkvillage.com; Mile 231, George Parks Hwy; r from $379; pW)

This log-cabin-style complex is still a fine place to enjoy a deckside drink overlooking the Nenana River. Rooms sport a liberal use of wood, but overall it’s a generic-looking place with online deals making it much more attractive at times.

The lodge runs a courtesy shuttle to the Denali Visitor Center, WAC and Canyon. It’s free for guests and $5 for everyone else.

`4`Carlo Creek

Located 12 miles south of the park entrance (Mile 224, George Parks Hwy), this is one of the best places to stay near Denali, especially for independent travelers looking for a chilled-out experience that includes a gorgeous mountain backdrop. Most of the businesses here are family run, with some now seeing the second or third generation taking over.

There’s good hiking nearby – stop in at the Denali Mountain Morning Hostel to get the lowdown on area tramps. The hostel, Perch Restaurant & Cabins and Panorama Pizza Pub all offer shuttle services to the park. It’s definitely nice to have wheels, though, if you decide to stay here.

Denali Mountain Morning HostelHOSTEL$

(%907-683-7503; www.hostelalaska.com; Mile 224.1, George Parks Hwy; dm & tents $34, cabins $85-170; pW)

Perched beside the gurgling Carlo Creek, this is the area’s only true hostel. That’s cool – it makes up in quality for a lack of hostel quantity. The setting is a dream – mountains to one side, a stream running through it all. The hostel features a hotchpotch of tent-cabins, log cabins and platform tents. Only open during summer.

There’s a fire pit, and visitors can cook meals and swap tales in the ‘octagon’ – the hostel’s common area. Laundry facilities are available and the hostel offers free shuttle services to/from the park’s Wilderness Access Center throughout the day.

Carlo Creek LodgeCABIN$$

(%907-683-2576; www.denaliparklodging.com; cabins without bath $84-90, with bath $120-149; piW)

The 32-acre grounds here, nestled amidst the mountains, are nothing short of spectacular, and the hand-hewn log cabins are filled with genuine old-Alaskan charm. Maintained by the descendants of the original homesteaders who settled this scenic little plot by the creek, the lodge has a fresh feel but still a healthy respect for tradition.

Communal amenities include a laundry room, spiffy shower block, barbecue and cooking areas.

McKinley Creekside CabinsCABIN$$

(%907-683-2277; www.mckinleycabins.com; cabins $169-229; pW)

This is a friendly, well-run place with the most modern cabins in Carlo Creek. Given that the grounds aren’t well treed, it’s best to get a creek-side cabin so you can enjoy the warble of the water and the wide-open views from your porch. The popular cafe at the front of the premises serves some tasty home-cooked fare, including breakfasts. Larger cabins are available for $369.

`4`Healy

Healy (Mile 249.5, George Parks Hwy), a pleasant decentralized community about 12 miles north of the park entrance, has a range of lodging options, but you’ll need your own vehicle if you plan to stay here.

oEarthSong LodgeCABIN$$

(%907-683-2863; www.earthsonglodge.com; Mile 4, Stampede Rd; cabins $175-255; pW) S

North of Healy, off Mile 251 on the George Parks Hwy, this spotlessly clean lodge is pretty much on its own in green fields above the treeline. The private-bath cabins have an appealing at-home styling, with decorative touches such as sprays of wildflowers and hand-carved ornaments.

Breakfast and dinner are available in the adjacent Henry’s Coffeehouse and there are sleddog demos, a nightly slide show and dog-sled and cross-country-skiing tours in winter. The lodge is just a short climb away from stunning views of the mountain, and just in case you wanted to know more about that peak, proprietor Jon Nierenberg, a former Denali ranger, quite literally wrote the book on hiking in the park’s backcountry.

Denali Dome Home B&BB&B$$

(%907-683-1239; www.denalidomehome.com; 137 Healy Rd; r $245; W)

This is not a yurt but a huge, intriguing geodesic house on a 5-acre lot, offering a fantastic B&B experience. There are seven modern rooms (with partial antique furnishings), an open common area with fireplace, and a small business area. Also: it’s a dome home! How cool is that?

The owners are absolute oracles of wisdom when it comes to Denali, and do a bang-up job with breakfast. They also offer car rental.

Denali Park HotelMOTEL$$

(%866-683-1800; www.denaliparkhotel.com; Mile 247, George Parks Hwy; r $149-154; pW)

‘Moose in the grounds!’ is a regular cry at this hotel, which is actually more like a motel in terms of facilities and appearance. The communal areas are a different matter, encased inside a couple of old Alaska Railroad carriages and impossible to miss from the main road.

5Eating

Groceries are limited and expensive in the Denali area, so stock up before you arrive. Inside the park itself there are no restaurants, except Morino Grill. Luckily, the neighboring towns are not far apart, so there’s a good variety of eating and drinking options to choose from. You can easily stuff yourself wandering around the Canyon area.

Note that many restaurants either close or have considerably reduced hours in winter.

`5`Within the Park

Morino GrillBURGERS$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Mile 1.5, Park Rd; mains $8-13; h11am-6pm; W)

This cafeteria-style establishment is the only eatery within the park. It has burgers, paninis and veggie chili, as well as seafood chowder and reindeer stew. There’s a cafe and to-go section at the front, but the sandwiches are pricier than at the Mercantile.

Riley Creek MercantileDELI$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Mile 0.2, Park Rd; sandwiches $5-8; h7am-11pm; W)

The Mercantile has a decent selection of groceries, as well as fresh coffee, deli sandwiches and wraps. There’s also a small selection of camping supplies, such as gas, head nets and trail mix.

`5`Canyon

oBlack Bear Coffee HouseCAFE$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-1656; www.blackbeardenali.com; Mile 238.5, George Parks Hwy; mains $6-13; h6am-8pm; W)

Serving coffee worthy of a hip Seattle-based barista, along with jolly decent coconut cake and strong wi-fi, this place is a knee-weakening apparition to people who’ve been living off camping food for the last few weeks.

oProspectors Pizzeria & Ale HousePIZZA$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-7437; http://prospectorspizza.com; Mile 238.9, George Parks Hwy; pizza $20-31, mains $15-19; h11am-11pm, bar to 1am; v)

Perennially busy and with good reason! Set in the Old Northern Lights Theater building, this cavernous alehouse-cum-pizza-parlor has quickly become one of the most popular eating establishments in the park area. In addition to a menu with two-dozen oven-baked pizza choices, there are some 50 beers available on tap from almost all of Alaska’s small breweries.

oMoose-AKa’sEASTERN EUROPEAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-750-4961, 907-687-0003; www.facebook.com/Mooseakas; Mile 238.9, George Parks Hwy; mains $9-24; h10am-10pm Tue-Sun, from 5pm Mon; vc)

There are lots of young Eastern Europeans working the tourism season in Alaska, and this restaurant is testimony to the fact. Started by a Serbian former season worker turned American, Moose-AKa’s serves fried crepes, schnitzel, Russian salad, stuffed peppers and of course, moussaka. It’s vegan- and vegetarian-friendly, and a great departure from the usual burgers and pizza.

Denali Park Salmon BakeAMERICAN$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-2733; www.thebakerocks.com; Mile 238.5, George Parks Hwy; mains $16-30; h11am-3am)

The better-on-the-inside ‘Bake’ offers some quirky starters, such as Yak-a-dilla (locally raised yak quesadilla), and a well-regarded halibut and chips. The bar is open 24/7 and there’s a free 24-hour shuttle. Popular and very casual.

Overlook Bar & GrillAMERICAN$$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-2723; www.denalicrowsnestcabins.com; Mile 238.5, George Parks Hwy; breakfast $15-18, dinner mains $19-64; h6-10:30am & 5pm-midnight; W)

This restaurant serves locally sourced breakfasts and dinners – think blueberry sourdough pancakes in the morning, and prosciutto-wrapped halibut in the evening. It’s good, but hey, anything tastes nice when matched with those valley views.

`5`McKinley Village

o229 ParksAMERICAN$$$

(%907-683-2567; www.229parks.com; Mile 229, George Parks Hwy; dinner mains $23-42; h8-11am & 5-10pm Tue-Sun; v) S

South of McKinley Village, this stylish timber-frame hideaway is quintessentially modern Alaskan: locally owned, organic and fervently committed to both the community and environment. Everything is made on-site, including the bread and butter, and the menu changes daily, though it usually features local game dishes and a veritable cornucopia of vegetarian options.

And don’t worry if you can’t finish every mouthful: scraps go to feed local sled dogs. Reservations definitely recommended.

`5`Carlo Creek

Perch Restaurant & CabinsAMERICAN$$

(%907-683-2523; www.denaliperchresort.com; Mile 224, Parks Hwy; breakfast $8-13, dinner mains $14-28; h6-11am & 5-11pm)

It’s called the Perch for a reason, as the restaurant sits high on a moraine above Carlo Creek, with an almost-eye-level view of the surrounding peaks. It’s just a quick jaunt from the highway, however, and on a sunny day a meal or drink on the deck should be mandatory. Try the steak, the salmon, or the enormous cinnamon rolls.

There’s a free shuttle to and from the park. Perch also offers cabins (cabins incl breakfast buffet $89-180; pW).

Panorama Pizza PubPIZZA$$

(%907-683-2623; Mile 224, George Parks Hwy; 12in pizzas $16-23; h5-10pm, bar to 2am; v)

This eatery was once the family’s gift shop but now offers good beer, burgers and pizza pies, with midsummer salads coming from a Healy-based organic grower. Later at night the place becomes more pub than pizzeria, with locals, travelers and seasonal workers congregating for live music, open mics and pub quizzes.

Panorama shares a free shuttle with Perch Restaurant & Cabins so you can get here even if you aren’t staying in Carlo Creek.

`5`Healy

Miner’s Market & DeliDELI$

(Mile 248, George Parks Hwy; h6am-9pm)

A surprisingly good selection of groceries (including fresh produce) can be purchased at this market attached to a gas station. The deli even sells breakfast, sandwiches and Prospectors Pizzeria slices.

Rose’s CaféDINER$$

(%907-683-7673; Mile 249.5, George Parks Hwy; mains $7-20; h7am-9pm; W)

This classic breakfast, burger and pie joint is a good option if you’re in Healy. The covered outdoor seating area out the back and authentic diner-style counter seating add to its Nighthawks-meets-Easy Rider appeal.

6Drinking & Nightlife

o49th State Brewing CompanyBREWERY

(www.49statebrewing.com; Mile 248.4, George Parks Hwy; h11pm-1:30am)

You can have the best evening out in Denali at this multi-farious place which is 1) a brewpub brewing its own fine ales; 2) a wonderful flame-grilled restaurant; 3) a live-music venue; and 4) a dedicated purveyor of dozens of whiskeys. A celebratory atmosphere is generated at the communal tables both inside and out, where fun games shorten the wait for your food.

Also out front is the famous Magic Bus from the Sean Penn film Into the Wild. The actual bus used by Chris McCandless is 28 miles along the nearby Stampede Trail. Brewery tours with free tastings take place on Fridays at 4pm.

3Entertainment

Charles Sheldon CenterARTS CENTER

(%907-683-2597; www.denali.org/campus; Mile 231, George Parks Hwy)

At the back of the Denali Park Village in McKinley Village, this community center holds local talks and speeches, art shows and theatrical and musical performances, all designed to ‘inspire personal connections to Denali.’

7Shopping

Cannabis CacheMARIJUANA

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-2633; www.denaliscache.com; Mile 238.9, George Parks Hwy; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat & from noon Sun May-Sep)

This popular pot shop sells a wide range of edibles and smokeables.

Denali Mountain WorksSPORTS & OUTDOORS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-1542; www.denalimountainworks.com; Mile 239, George Parks Hwy; h9am-9pm)

This jam-packed Canyon store sells camping gear, clothing and pretty much anything you’d need for a few days in the backcountry. It also rents out tents, stoves and other outdoor gear, and has dehydrated meals.

Alaska Geographic BookstoreBOOKS

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-274-8440; Mile 1.5, Park Rd; h8am-6pm)

This inviting bookstore has field guides, topographic maps, coffee-table books and Alaskan literature.

8Information

MEDICAL SERVICES

Canyon Clinic (%907-683-4433, 907-455-6875; Mile 238.6, George Parks Hwy; h9am-6pm) Only open during summer months but on call 24 hours.

Interior Community Health Center (%907-683-2211; Mile 0.5, Healy Spur Rd) In the Tri-Valley Community Center in Healy.

MONEY

There are ATMs in most of Canyon’s big hotels. The closest full-service bank is in Healy.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Denali Visitor Center (MAP; %907-683-9532; www.nps.gov/dena; Mile 1.5, Park Rd; h8am-6pm late May–mid-Sep) The place to come for an executive summary of Denali National Park & Preserve, with quality displays on the area’s natural and human history.

Wilderness Access Center (WAC; MAP; %907-683-9532; Mile 0.5, Park Rd; h5am-7pm late May–mid-Sep) There’s a general-purpose info desk, cafe, snack and gear shop, but the WAC’s main function is as the park’s transport hub and campground-reservation center.

8Getting There & Away

Located on George Parks Hwy, about 240 miles north of Anchorage and 120 miles south of Fairbanks, Denali is easy to access without your own vehicle.

BUS

Alaska/Yukon Trails (%907-479-2277, 907-888-5659; www.alaskashuttle.com) heads north from Anchorage ($65), departing between 7am and 7:30am depending on where you board the bus, and arriving at Denali around 1pm. From Fairbanks ($55), it leaves southbound around 8:45am, hitting the park around noon. Check its website or call ahead for pick-up points.

Park Connection (%800-266-8625; www.alaskacoach.com) runs two buses a day from major Canyon hotels to Anchorage ($90, departing 7am and arriving 1:30pm, and departing 1:45pm and arriving 9pm) and one a day to Seward ($155, departing 7am and arriving 5:45pm; buses leave Seward at 10:30am and arrive at the park at 8:30pm). From Anchorage, the buses leave at 6:30am (arriving 12:30pm) and 3pm (arriving 8:30pm) for Denali ($90).

Anchorage-bound Park Connection buses will also stop in Talkeetna ($65; about 2½ hours from the park). If you’re arriving on a cruise line in Whittier, you can hop on a Park Connection bus at 9:45am that will have you in Anchorage for the 3pm bus to Denali, which arrives at 8:30pm; total fare from Whittier is $155.

TRAIN

The most enjoyable way to arrive or depart from the park is aboard the Alaska Railroad (%800-544-0552; www.alaskarailroad.com), with its viewing-dome cars that provide sweeping views of Denali and the Susitna and Nenana Valleys along the way. All trains arrive at the depot beside the visitor center, only staying long enough for passengers to board. The northbound Denali Star departs from Denali at 4pm and reaches Fairbanks at 8pm; the reverse leaves Fairbanks at 8:15am and arrives at Denali at 12:10pm. The southbound Denali Star departs Denali at 12:30pm and gets into Anchorage at 8pm; the reverse departs Anchorage at 8:15am and arrives at Denali at 3:40pm. The one-way fare to/from Anchorage starts at $167; to/from Fairbanks starts at $73.

8Getting Around

The area between Canyon and McKinley Village is well served by public transport. North or south, you may need your own car, though Denali Mountain Morning Hostel in Carlo Creek provides limited transport to the Wilderness Area Center, as does Panorama Pizza Pub.

From Canyon, it’s a not-unpleasant 2-mile walk to the park entrance area.

Within the park itself is a good system of free and paid shuttle buses.

WITHIN THE PARK

Shuttle buses are big, clunky, school-bus-style affairs aimed at wildlife watchers and day-hikers, with the occasional bus also carrying bicycles. The drivers are concessionaire employees, not NPS naturalists, but most provide unofficial natural-history information en route. Day-hikers don’t need a backcountry permit and can get off anywhere (and multiple times) along Park Rd. After hiking, flag down the next bus that comes along and produce your bus-ticket stub. Due to space considerations, you might have to wait a bus or two during peak season. The bus to Wonder Lake heads into the park as early as 5:45am, but the usual ones to Toklat or Eielson start running around 7am. The last returning bus (from Eielson) leaves around 6:30pm; check carefully when the last bus from your destination returns. Also note the exact schedule changes every year. It’s wise to reserve a seat as far in advance as possible. The cost varies, and there are three-for-two passes, allowing three days of travel for the price of two. Sample return fares include Savage River (Mile 14, free), Toklat River (Mile 53, $26.50), Eielson Visitor Center (Mile 66, $34), Wonder Lake (Mile 85, $46.75) and Kantishna (Mile 92, $51).

Camper buses ferry overnight campers, backpackers and cyclists, offering ample space to stow gear. To take these buses you must have a campsite or backcountry unit reserved along Park Rd, or be toting a bicycle. If you don’t have a campground booking, you can’t ride in on the camper bus, but you can probably hitch a ride back on one. The buses cost $34 to anywhere along the road. As with shuttle buses, it’s good to reserve as far ahead as possible.

The free Riley Creek Loop Bus makes a circuit through the park entrance area, picking up at the visitor center every half hour and stopping at the Murie Science & Learning Center, Horseshoe Lake trailhead, WAC, park headquarters and Riley Creek Campground. The park also has a free Dog Sled Demo Bus, which departs the visitor center for the park headquarters 40 minutes before each sled-dog demonstration.

OUTSIDE THE PARK

The useful Salmon Bake Shuttle runs from the park’s WAC and visitor center to Healy via Canyon’s hotels. It’s particularly handy for those wishing to enjoy an evening microbrew at 49th State Brewing Company. Tickets are $5 for a day pass. Buses run 4:30am to 3:30am.

Many other restaurants and lodges run their own shuttle buses, which means you can get about reasonably well without your own vehicle. Some charge $5 while others are free if you’re staying or eating (or if the driver can’t be bothered charging you). Some have regular pick-ups, while others will come for any potential customer at any time. For more information, inquire at the WAC.

George Parks Highway

This ribbon of highway, drizzled ever so lovingly over vast stretches of wilderness, offers one of Alaska’s top road journeys. From a beginning at the junction with Glenn Hwy (35 miles north of Anchorage), the Parks Hwy runs 327 miles to Fairbanks, Alaska’s third-largest city. Along the way it’s a veritable Denali Alley, with a state park, national park and highway named after the Great One. And while there’s no doubt about everyone’s final destination, the rest is no mere sideshow. There are views that won’t be outdone later, a half-dozen local-favorite hikes and paddles, and one spunky former boomtown that’s now most everyone’s idea of a good time.

Mileposts along the highway indicate distances from Anchorage.

Talkeetna

%907 / Pop 876

It takes a few things to climb Denali, and among them are extensive logistical infrastructure and being a special kind of crazy. When those two elements collide, you get a town like Talkeetna: a hub for climbers, tourists, and idiosyncratic Alaskans with a slightly crunchier take on the state’s ‘Do what you will’ libertarian mindset. Fact: in 1997, the town elected a cat named Stubbs as its mayor.

The name Talkeetna comes from the Athabascan language, and means ‘Place of Many Gift Stores.’ Kidding! It actually means ‘Riverside food cache,’ but we think our jokey take works, as ‘downtown’ Talkeetna is a strip of gift shops, guide services, restaurants and old-school saloons. And it’s awesome: artsy, playful, infused with community spirit, but also self-aware enough to market itself to the thousands who come here seeking a view of Denali and a dip in the funky energy that permeates the mountain’s main climbing base.

1Sights

Fairview InnHISTORIC BUILDING

(101 Main St; h11am-2:30am)

Though not an official museum, the Fairview Inn might as well be. Founded in 1923 to serve as the overnight stop between Seward and Fairbanks on the newly constructed Alaska Railroad, the inn is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. As it is officially a bar, you need to be 21 or over to get in.

Its old plank-floored saloon is classic Alaska: its walls are covered with racks of antlers, various furry critters and lots of local memorabilia. One corner holds Talkeetna’s only slot machine; another is devoted to President Warren G Harding. When the railroad was finished in 1923, Harding arrived in Alaska and rode the rails to the Nenana River, where he hammered in the golden spike. Talkeetna locals swear (with grins on their faces) that he stopped at the Fairview Inn on the way home, was poisoned and wound up dying in San Francisco less than a week later. Ever since, the Fairview has remained a fine place to be poisoned.

Talkeetna Riverfront ParkPARK

SF Three rivers – the Talkeetna, Susitna, and Chulitna – come together here like an aquatic Voltron to form the Big Susitna River (which is technically the Susitna River), which eventually empties into Cook Inlet. This is a good spot to view Denali, assuming conditions are clear. There are public restrooms on-site.

Talkeetna CemeteryCEMETERY

(E 2nd St; h24hr) F

This beautiful cemetery is rife with wildflowers, so much so that it feels more like a secret garden than a space for the dead. Among the interred bodies are bush pilots and memorial stones to mountain climbers who perished trying to climb Denali.

Talkeetna Historical Society MuseumMUSEUM

(%907-733-2487; www.talkeetnahistoricalsociety.org; off D St; $5; h10am-6pm May-Sep, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr)

A block south of Main St, look for this small complex of restored buildings that includes the town’s 1936 schoolhouse, a fully furnished trapper’s cabin and a train depot. There are exhibits devoted to bush pilots, trapping and mining artifacts, but the real highlights are the talks about Denali given by park rangers using fantastic scale models of the mountain.

Pick up the museum’s Historic Walking Tour brochure if you want to head out and explore more old buildings around town.

2Activities

Hurricane Turn TrainRAIL

(%800-544-0552; www.alaskarailroad.com; round-trip from Talkeetna adult/child $104/52; hThu-Mon mid-May–mid-Sep)

Sometimes called the ‘Local’ or the ‘Bud Car,’ this flagstop train (one of the last still running in America) provides a local rural service from Thursday through Sunday (and some major holidays) in summer. Departure from Talkeetna is at 1pm for the trip north to Hurricane Gulch, where the train turns around and heads back the same day.

The train takes you within view of Denali and into some remote areas, and because it goes slower and is less noisy than the Denali Star, your chances of spotting wildlife are greater. You also have a better opportunity to mingle with local residents, many of whom use this line to access hunting locations, or simply enjoy it as a nostalgic journey from another era.

During the winter, the train operates once a week (on Thursdays) and travels between Anchorage and Hurricane Gulch, north of Talkeetna.

Sun Dog KennelDOG SLEDDING

(%907-733-3355; www.sundogkennel.com; $75)

Ever wondered how sled dogs are trained and raised? Take a tour of the kennels owned by pro-mushers (dogsled keepers) Holden and Gerald Sousa, play with the puppies and, if you want, take a sled-dog ride over local trails. Call or book online to make reservations.

Hiking & Cycling

One of the easiest but most scenic walks in the area begins at the end of Main St, on the sandy banks of the Talkeetna River. There are pinch-yourself views of Denali across the waterway on a clear day.

Just south of town, a cycling/walking route parallels Talkeetna Spur Rd almost 14 miles back to Glenn Parks Hwy. At Mile 12 (2 miles south of town), the road begins to climb and, behind you, Denali suddenly fills up half the sky.

Just a little further is the turn for Comsat Rd, which quickly leads to the Talkeetna Lakes Park Day-Use Area, offering short hikes around X and Y Lakes.

From the lakes you can either retrace your route back to town or continue up Comsat Rd and take the first left at Christiansen Lake Rd. In a short while, you’ll pass Christiansen Lake (where you can swim) and then reach a dead-end at a lookout with views over the river flats and, if you’re lucky, to Denali in the distance.

The trail past the stop sign leads to Beaver Rd, which eventually runs into F St. You can follow this road back to Talkeetna Spur Rd just south of town. Pick up a copy of Talkeetna Town & Trail Map for a rough map of this and other routes.

Belle’s Interpretive TrailWALKING

F All around town, you’ll see interpretive signs marking the route of this trail, which winds past some of Talkeetna’s more important historical sites. It’s a flat, easily walkable route; ask at the Talkeetna Historical Society for a map.

TTours

Climbing

Alaska Mountaineering SchoolCLIMBING

(%907-733-1016; www.climbalaska.org; 13765 3rd St)

This local guiding company leads several expeditions up Denali; the cheapest trip (up the West Buttress) costs $8300. It also offers mountaineering courses (from $2600), backpacking trips ($675) and helicopter hikes ($1375), among other trips.

Flightseeing

Many flightseeing tours to Denali depart from Talkeetna, both because it’s an intrinsically exhilarating experience and because flights are actually cheaper from here than from within Denali National Park. Plan on spending anywhere between $220 and $460 per person for a flight; with a larger group, you may be able to wrangle a discount.

Sheldon Air ServiceFLIGHTSEEING

(%907-733-2321; www.sheldonairservice.com; 22703 S Terminal Ave; tours $210-365)

Sheldon offers a slate of three air tours, with glacier landings costing $90 extra. It also offers charter flights that follow Iditarod race mushers from the sky ($550).

Talkeetna Air TaxiSCENIC FLIGHTS

(%907-733-2218; www.talkeetnaair.com; 14212 E 2nd St; tours $210-325; h9am-5pm)

Offers four different trips year-round to see Denali from every conceivable angle, starting with the one-hour South Face tour. You can land on a glacier for around $95 more, depending on the tour.

K2 AviationSCENIC FLIGHTS

(%907-733-2291; www.flyk2.com; 14052 E 2nd St; flightseeing tours $220-460; h7:30am-9pm)

Aside from standard flightseeing tours, this company teams up with a Denali National Park concessionaire to offer fly-in day-hiking trips ($495).

Fishing

Fishing around Talkeetna is amazing, with runs of every species of Pacific salmon plus grayling, rainbow trout and Dolly Varden.

Phantom Salmon ChartersFISHING

(%907-733-2400; www.phantomsalmoncharters.com; 22228 Talkeetna Spur Rd; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun)

Arranges custom fishing charters in covered, heated boats along the region’s three rivers. Pop into the office for details, or call or email to ask about rates.

Nature & River Tours

Talkeetna River GuidesRAFTING

(%907-733-2677; www.talkeetnariverguides.com; 13521 N Main St)

To get out onto Talkeetna’s many nearby waterways, Talkeetna River Guides will put you in a raft for a placid two-hour float on the Talkeetna River ($79) or a four-hour float on the Chulitna River through Denali State Park ($129). The guides are a fun-loving, youthful bunch, but fair warning: they do all the paddling – this isn’t an active rafting trip.

Want to pop into the office? Look for the big yurt on Talkeetna’s main street.

Alaska Nature GuidesWALKING

(%907-733-1237; www.alaskanatureguides.com; nature walks/hikes/rafting trips from $59/99/239)

Offers various nature adventure tours around Talkeetna and Denali State Park; options include helicopter-assisted hikes ($443), hiking and rafting trips, and simple nature walks around the region’s forests and lakes.

Mahay’s Jet Boat AdventuresBOATING

(%907-733-2223; www.mahaysjetboat.com; adult/child from $75/57)

This company offers three jetboat tours along local rivers; the longest (adult/child $175/132) ventures into the white water in Devil’s Canyon via Denali State Park. It’s a tourist trap, but it’s a fun one. If you want a more active adventure, look elsewhere.

Ziplining

Denali Zipline ToursZIP LINE

(%855-733-3988, 907-733-3988; www.denaliziplinetours.com; 13572 Main St; adult/child $149/119)

This zipline strung up in Talkeetna’s forest canopy has nine lines and three high-flying suspension bridges, meaning you can stay up in the trees for three hours. It’s the most northerly zipline in North America.

4Sleeping

House of Seven TreesHOSTEL$

(%907-733-7733; www.houseof7trees.com; 13581 E Main St; dm $25, r $75-90; W)

This excellent hostel is a converted, cozy house with clean rooms that feel like they’re in your favorite grandmother’s guesthouse. There’s a friendly common area where you can trade tips with other travelers before hitting up main street Talkeetna for a microbrew.

Talkeetna RoadhouseHISTORIC HOTEL$

(%907-733-1351; www.talkeetnaroadhouse.com; 13550 E Main St; dm $23, d $60-90, tr $77-102, 2-person cabins $112-160; W)

The real Alaskan deal, this roadhouse dates from 1917 and maintains five small private rooms, a bunkroom, a couple of rustic cabins out back, and walls covered with Alaskan history dating back to frontier days. In keeping with the old-time setting, it’s shared bath all the way. Cabin rates rise or fall based on the number of guests.

River Park CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(off Main St; tent sites $10)

This informal place (with self check-in) at the end of Main St is a popular camping spot for seasonal workers and backpackers living on the extreme cheap. No RVs and no hookups, but there is a public toilet onsite.

Talkeetna Hostel InternationalHOSTEL$

(%907-733-4678; www.talkeetnahostel.com; 22159 S I St; camping/dm/r $15/25/65; W)

This friendly, basic hostel has two small dorms and a private room. It’s a popular base for Denali trekkers and the usual backpacking community, all of whom give it solid reviews. You can also camp on the hostel grounds and chill out in the main common area, which is full of tourist info.

oDenali Fireside Cabins & SuitesCABIN$$

(%907-733-2600; www.denalifireside.com; 22647 Talkeetna Spur Rd; ste $189, cabin $209-229; pW)

Upscale, centrally located (for town) and embellished with only-in-Alaska decor, this place is a jolly good deal for the price, and far more intimate than the large lodges beloved by cruise passengers. The separate cabins look sparkling new and are equipped with fireplaces, decks and kitchenettes.

Meandering Moose LodgeLODGE$$

(%907-733-1000; www.meandering-moose-lodging.com; 14677 E Cabin Spike Ave; cabins with breakfast $90-175, B&B r $90-150; pW)

Sitting 2 miles northeast of the town center, this collection of cabins – all with amusing moose-themed titles – balances rustic charm and creature comforts. Private log cabins hold plenty of extra space in funky hideaway lofts, and feature full kitchens and bathrooms (except the lowest-priced ones, which share).

The B&B cabin features modern rooms, a shared living space and kitchen, and an interior design that wouldn’t be out of place in a high-end suburb.

There’s a shuttle service from Talkeetna and its train station.

Talkeetna Eastside CabinsCABIN$$

(%907-903-6202; www.talkeetnaeastsidecabins.com; 22102 S H St; yurt/cabin/home $130/170/200, r $130-155; W)

You’re spoiled for accommodation choice here. Options include a rustic-chic cabin, tastefully appointed rooms in a main house, a comfy entire-home rental, and our favorite option – a pretty yurt that perfectly fits the quirky Talkeetna outdoors vibe.

Talkeetna Alaskan LodgeRESORT$$$

(%907-733-9500, 888-602-3323; www.alaskacollection.com; 23601 Talkeetna Spur Rd; r $200-265, ste from $300; pW)

This high-end Alaska Native Corporation–owned lodge has a hillside setting with excellent views of the Alaska Range. Rooms are spacious and quietly stylish, and cruise-ship guests (a big chunk of the clientele) and noncruise-ship guests are housed in different buildings. Check the massive stuffed bear in the lobby.

5Eating

You won’t go hungry for food or choice in Talkeetna, and just to make it easy, almost everything is crowded onto a few blocks of Main St.

oFlying Squirrel Bakery CaféAMERICAN$

(%907-733-6887; www.flyingsquirrelcafe.com; Mile 11, Talkeetna Spur Rd; mains $7-13, pizza $13-22; h8am-9pm Thu-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun, 8am-5pm Mon & Wed; pvc) S

Located a little ways outside of town, this Flying Squirrel soars above the competition (see what we did there?). There’s no official menu, just a rotating list of seasonal pizzas, breads, sandwiches and baked goods that are expertly crafted and delicious to boot; there are plenty of vegan options. Often hosts art events and the occasional acoustic music performance.

oTalkeetna RoadhouseBREAKFAST$

(%907-733-1351; www.talkeetnaroadhouse.com; 13550 E Main St; breakfast $9-14, dishes $5-7; h7am-4pm; W)

The oldest of old-school Talkeetna establishments, the Roadhouse is decked out in frontier-era kitsch and dishes out the best breakfast in town. The restaurant also doubles as a bakery, cooking up giant cinnamon rolls in the morning, and lasagna, pasties and salads during the day. The long table seating is great for meeting other travelers.

oMountain High Pizza PiePIZZA$$

(%907-733-1234; www.pizzapietalkeetna.com; Main St; pizzas $12-25; h11am-10pm; c)

Cold beers, outdoor patio, excellent pizzas and live music all come together in a pretty purple building that houses one of Talkeetna’s better chill-out spots. There are plenty of toppings, from reindeer sausage to garlic oil to fresh basil. Did we mention the beer and live music?

Twister Creek RestaurantGASTROPUB$$

(%907-733-2537; www.denalibrewingcompany.com; 13605 E Main St; mains $13-32; h11am-10pm May-Sep, noon-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat Oct-Apr)

At the showcase restaurant for the Denali Brewing Company, you can pair your microbrews with cod sandwiches, burgers, Thai curry and reindeer meatloaf. There are better dining options in town, but this is a brewpub that hosts live music, so it’s pretty popular.

oWildflower CaféSANDWICHES$$$

(%907-733-2694; www.talkeetnasuites.com; 13578 E Main St; sandwiches $16, mains $29-38; h11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat; v)

This is one of the better dining options located on the Talkeetna main drag. Indulge with delicious burgers, fantastic fish and chips, daily specials that utilize Alaskan ingredients, and a deck facing Main St. There’s also a good salad-menu selection if you need to fill up on greens.

Foraker RestaurantAMERICAN$$$

(%907-733-9500; 23601 Talkeetna Spur Rd; mains $20-39; h6:30-11am & 5-9pm; pv)

Located within the Talkeetna Alaskan Lodge, the Foraker boasts jaw-dropping views of the Alaska Range from its elevated deck. Otherwise, the fine dining here is good, and puts an emphasis on fresh fish and seasonal Alaskan ingredients.

6Drinking & Nightlife

Pretty much every joint in town will serve you a beer, and most of them have fine outdoor perches for people-watching.

oFairview InnBAR

(101 Main St; h11am-2:30am)

One of Talkeetna’s most impressive historic buildings also happens to be its best bar. There’s tons of old Alaskan history hanging from the walls, creaking floorboards, whiffs of sawdust, frequent live music, and a clientele of tourists and locals who will wear flannel and wolf T-shirts until the sun goes supernova. God bless this place.

Denali Brewing CompanyBREWERY

(%907-733-2537; www.denalibrewingcompany.com; 13605 E Main St; h11am-10pm)

Beer from this popular local microbrewery has already found its way right across the state, but there’s something about sipping from the source, and that’s right here in Talkeetna. There’s an outdoor garden facing Main St, where you can relax and enjoy whatever tipple you choose – it even carries local mead (honey wine).

Denali Brewing Company also has a tap room (%907-733-2536; 37083 Talkeetna Spur Rd; h11am-8pm) located off Talkeetna Spur Rd.

3Entertainment

Denali Arts CouncilPERFORMING ARTS

(%907-733-7929; www.denaliartscouncil.org; cnr D & E 1st Sts, Sheldon Community Arts Hangar)

Based in the Sheldon Community Arts Hangar across from the museum, this outfit runs theatrical performances and an arts program throughout the summer. It also sponsors a family-friendly live outdoor music show in the Village Park (corner of Main St and Talkeetna Spur Rd) on Friday evenings.

7Shopping

Kahiltna Gold Birch SyrupFOOD & DRINKS

(%907-373-1309; www.alaskabirchsyrup.com; 38139 S Talkeetna Spur; h10am-6pm May-Sep)

Birch syrup is kind of like maple syrup – viscous, light amber to deep brown, sweet – but it’s more difficult to make, and it’s only available in select spots, like this little shop located near the beginning of the Talkeetna Spur Rd. Come here for tons of birch and syrupy goodies, Alaska souvenirs and a small tour of the facilities.

8Information

MONEY

There are ATMs in Nagley’s (%907-733-3663; www.nagleysstore.com; 13650 E Main St; h7:30am-9pm) and Twister Creek Restaurant.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station (%907-733-2231; cnr 1st & B Sts; h8am-5:30pm daily mid-April–mid-Sep, 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri other months) Whether you’re intrigued or boggled by high-altitude alpinism, this ranger station provides an excellent window into that rarefied world. In addition to coordinating the numerous Denali expeditions during spring and summer, the station functions as a visitor center, with maps, books, photos and video presentations about the Alaska Range. Hosts frequent ranger-led activities.

8Getting There & Away

Talkeetna is an easy day trip from Anchorage. It can be reached by turning at Mile 98.7 on George Parks Hwy onto Talkeetna Spur Rd. This 14-mile paved road ends at the junction with Main St. Check the noticeboard outside the post office (behind Sheldon Community Arts Hangar) for information on shared rides.

Arriving by train is a good option. It’s a gentle half-mile stroll from the station to Talkeetna’s main drag.

BUS

Alaska Bus Guy (%907-720-6541; www.alaskabusguy.com) Runs vans to Anchorage ($89; two hours), leaving at 3:30pm; the bus leaves Anchorage for Talkeetna at 6am.

Alaska/Yukon Trails (%907-479-2277; www.alaskashuttle.com) Has buses departing from Talkeetna Roadhouse daily at 10:15am heading for Denali Park ($65, 2½ hours) and continuing on to Fairbanks ($92, 6½ hours). They also leave at 4:15pm for Anchorage ($62, 2½ hours).

TRAIN

From mid-May to mid-September, the Alaska Railroad (%800-544-0552; www.alaskarailroad.com) train Denali Star leaves Anchorage at 8:15am and stops at Talkeetna (three hours; adult/child $101/51) and Fairbanks (Talkeetna to Fairbanks 6½ hours; adult/child $141/71). Talkeetna to Denali takes four hours and costs adult/child $95/48

8Getting Around

Sunshine Transit (%907-354-3885; fare $3) This community shuttle runs from town out to the George Parks Hwy, making stops anywhere passengers request. Buses run about every 20 to 30 minutes from 7:30am to 7pm Monday to Friday and 10am to 6pm Saturday.

Talkeetna Taxi (%907-355-8294; www.talkeetnataxi.com; fare $4) Offers service within town and also charters during the climbing season.

Denali State Park

At 325,240 acres, Denali State Park is the fourth-largest state park in Alaska and is roughly half the size of Rhode Island. The park covers the transition zone between the coastal region and the spine of the Alaska Range, and among the dense forests you can look forward to distant views of towering peaks, including Denali and the glaciers on its southern slopes.

The park, which is run through by the George Parks Hwy, is largely undeveloped, but does offer a handful of turnouts, trails, rental cabins and campgrounds that can be reached from the main road. That said, you need to be better prepared for any hiking and backpacking adventures than at the same-named national park to the north. At the height of summer, experienced backpackers may want to consider this park as a hassle-free and cheaper alternative to its NPS-managed sibling

2Activities

The excellent hiking trails and alpine routes crossing the park are popular with locals. Keep in mind that in the backcountry open fires are allowed only on the gravel bars of major rivers. Pack a stove if you plan to camp overnight.

The Chulitna River runs through the park. Floats can be arranged in Talkeetna.

Byers Lake Loop TrailHIKING

(Mile 147, George Parks Hwy)

If you only have a few hours, but really want to get away from it all, head out on this easy 4.8-mile hike around the lake. The path begins at Byers Lake Campground, passes six hike-in campsites on the other side and then returns to the original campground after a bridge crossing.

If you want to go for a paddle across the lake, you can rent canoes or kayaks at the Byers Lake Campground through Southside River Guides (%907-733-7238; www.denaliriverguides.com; Mile 147, George Parks Hwy; per hr/day $15/45).

4Sleeping

Byers Lake CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(Mile 147, George Parks Hwy; tent sites/cabins $20/70; p)

In addition to its 70 sites, this campground offers walk-in sites along the loop trail around the lake, and the state park’s Byers Lake cabins 1, 2 and 3. You can drive to cabin 1, cabin 2 is a half-mile hike from there, while cabin 3 is a further 70yd beyond that. Cabins can be reserved in advance online at the Division of Parks and Outdoor Recreation.

Denali Viewpoint North CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(Mile 162.7, George Parks Hwy; tent sites $15)

This handy outpost in the north of the park (closer to the national park) has 20 sites around a parking lot and a few walk-in sites in a level glade up a slope.

Mt McKinley Princess Wilderness LodgeHOTEL$$

(%907-733-2900; www.princesslodges.com; Mile 133, George Parks Hwy; r from $129; iW)

More isolated, spread out and economical than other Princess lodges, the McKinley retains a laid-back rustic atmosphere that’s not a million miles from a national park lodge. The view of the iconic mountain (should it reveal itself) from the main building’s deck is probably worth the room rate alone.

Throw in hot tubs, a small cardio room and wooded grounds with four short trails and you’ll quickly forget how crowded this lodge can get.

McKinley View LodgeHOTEL$$

(%907-733-1555; www.mckinleyviewlodge.com; Mile 134.5, George Parks Hwy; r $100-120; hcafe 8am-8pm)

Charming is the word at this highway stop older than the highway itself. The place was first homesteaded in 1962 and is now run by Jean Carey Richardson, a children’s author and daughter of the original owner. Come here for quaint economical rooms, decent cafe grub (mains $10 to $17) and a fork-dropping Denali (McKinley) view.

8Information

Denali State Park Visitors Center (http://dnr.alaska.gov/parks/units/denali1.htm; Mile 147, George Parks Hwy; h8am-5pm Thu-Sun) At the Alaska Veterans’ Memorial, just north of Byers Lake Campground. Volunteer staff are well informed about the area, and maps and brochures are available for sale.

Division of Parks and Outdoor Recreation (%907-745-3975; http://dnr.alaska.gov/parks) Manages the state-parks system. The number given is for the Denali State Park ranger station.

8Getting There & Away

The entrance to the park is at Mile 132.2 of the George Parks Hwy. The park is about 30 miles north of the turnoff for Talkeetna.

Cantwell & Broad Pass

The northern boundary of Denali State Park is at Mile 168.5, George Parks Hwy. Situated at Mile 203.6, Broad Pass (2300ft) is a dividing line: rivers to the south drain into Cook Inlet, while waters to the north flow to the Yukon River. The area is at the treeline and worth a stop for some hiking. The mountain valley, surrounded by tall white peaks, is unquestionably one of the most beautiful spots along George Parks Hwy or the Alaska Railroad – both use the low gap to cross the Alaska Range.

North from the pass, George Parks Hwy descends 6 miles to Cantwell (population 211), at the Denali Hwy junction. The ‘town’ is 2 miles west of the George Parks Hwy and Denali Hwy junction, on the extension of the Denali Hwy.

4Sleeping

Cantwell RV ParkCAMPGROUND$

(%907-888-6850; www.cantwellrvpark.wordpress.com; off Denali Hwy; tent sites/RV/cabin $18/28.50/65; W#)

This friendly, well-run RV park has on-site showers, tent sites and laundry facilities. The owners are happy to watch your pets as well (for an additional fee, of course).

8Getting There & Away

Cantwell is located about 25 miles south of the main entrance to Denali National Park. There is no public transportation here.

Nenana

%907 / Pop 376

The only significant town encountered between Denali National Park and Fairbanks is Nenana (nee-na-nuh, like ‘banana’), which lies at the confluence of the Nenana and Tanana (tan-uh-naw, not like ‘banana’) Rivers. Though the big industry is barging freight downstream, for visitors and northerners the community is most famous for the Nenana Ice Classic, an eminently Alaskan game of chance in which prognosticators guess when the ice will break up on the Nenana River.

Historically, this was little more than a roadhouse until it was chosen as the base for building the northern portion of the Alaska Railroad in 1916. On July 15, 1923, President Warren G Harding arrived to hammer in a golden spike on the northern side of the Tanana. The sickly Harding missed the spike the first two times, or so the story goes, but finally drove it in to complete the railroad.

1Sights

Alaska Railroad MuseumMUSEUM

(%907-787-9784; 900 A St; h9:30am-6pm; p) F

This little museum was a railroad depot back in the day, and displays railroad memorabilia and local artifacts ranging from ice tongs to animal traps. You can rent a room here, too (why not?), for $99 to $129; the rooms are cozy, and hey, how many times do you get to sleep above a history museum?

Alfred Starr Nenana Cultural CenterCULTURAL CENTER

(415 River Front St; h10am-6pm; p) SF

This riverfront center informs visitors about local culture and history, and includes exhibits on the old riverboat trade and frontier days, plus a small but excellent collection of Athabascan artifacts and costumes.

4Sleeping & Eating

Denali View LodgeLODGE$$

(%907-832-5238; www.denaliviewlodge.com; 817 A St; r $115-199; W)

Modern rooms have that whole ‘new student housing’ vibe, but they’re clean, and the more expensive ones are decked out in local art. The knowledgeable owners love Nenana and are happy to help you explore the region.

Monderosa Bar & GrillAMERICAN$$

(%907-832-5243; Mile 309, George Parks Hwy; mains $10-24; h10am-10pm Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun)

Best burger in Alaska? That’s the Monderosa’s claim to fame, and while we haven’t eaten every burger in the state, this one is a contender. Other winners off the menu include a chicken sandwich with melted pepperjack and jalapeños and a fine burrito. The bar has pool tables, cold beer and locals partaking of all of the above. Cash only.

8Information

Nenana Valley Visitor Center (%907-832-5435; www.nenana.org; 487 A St; h8am-6pm) A small visitor center located in a cabin with a sod roof.

8Getting There & Away

Nenana is about 57 miles southwest of Fairbanks and 68 miles north of Denali. Most shops and businesses can be found off A St, which runs four blocks from the helpful Nenana Visitor Center, at the entrance to town, to the train station beside the river.

Denali Highway

Still appearing ominously as a dotted line on maps, this 135-mile road was opened in 1957 as the only route to the national park. Now a secondary route, during the summer the road sees a steady flow of hikers, hunters, mountain bikers, anglers, bird-watchers, and adventurers. A highway in only the titular sense, Denali is basically a gravel road from Cantwell on George Parks Hwy to Paxson on Richardson Hwy.

As scenery and wildlife goes, this drive is absolutely stunning – you’ll pass vast blankets of tundra and may spot grazing herds of caribou. Enjoy the views, because the road itself, though passable in a standard car, is slow going. Expect to average 30mph, taking six hours from end to end. Watch out for potholes and stretches of ‘washboard’ road if it’s been raining.

1Sights

Tangle Lakes Archaeological DistrictARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(http://dnr.alaska.gov/mlw/tlad)

An enormous swath of land totaling some 226,660 acres, this district sandwiches the Denali Hwy between Mile 15 and Mile 32. Within the protected grounds are over 900 archaeological sites, many of which are thousands of years old. Three excellent hiking trails can be found within the district (a fourth was closed at the time of research).

2Activities

Crazy Dog KennelsDOG SLEDDING

(www.dogsleddenali.com; Mile 42; kennel tours/dogsled rides per person $35/55) S

On the MacLaren River’s far side is the summer operation of two-time Yukon Quest champ John Schandelmeier and his wife, Zoya DeNure, an Iditarod finisher. Passionate about their pups, they run the only dog yard in Alaska that rescues unwanted sled dogs and turns them into racers.

They have comfortable cabins on-site that run $90 to $100. Email to contact John and Zoya and arrange bookings.

Hiking

Several potential hiking trails – none signposted – branch off the highway in the dozen-or-so miles after Gracious House Lodge, a roadhouse at Mile 82. Use topographical maps and ask at lodges for clear directions and the latest on conditions.

MacLaren Summit TrailHIKING

(Mile 37)

Starting across the road from the Osar Lake Trail, this 3-mile, mostly dry route runs north across the tundra to MacLaren Summit. This trail crosses federally protected land, so you can’t bushwhack off the route.

Landmark Gap TrailHIKING

(Mile 24.6)

This 3-mile trail leads north to Landmark Gap Lake, at an elevation of 3217ft. You can’t see the lake from the highway, but you can spot the noticeable gap between the Amphitheater Mountains.

Swede Lake TrailHIKING

(Mile 16.2)

From a trailhead on the southern side of the highway, this path (mostly used by motorized vehicles and mountain bikers) runs south about 10 miles to the Middle Fork of the Gulkana River. From here there’s access to the Alphabet Hills and Dickey Lake.

Osar Lake TrailHIKING

(Mile 37)

On the southern side of the highway, this easy 8-mile trail leads to Osar Lake and wide views of the MacLaren River valley. In August and September you’ll be sharing the path with hunters.

Paddling

At Mile 118, pull in to begin a float down the silt-choked Nenana River if you have your own kayak or raft. The river can be paddled in class I to II conditions from here to George Parks Hwy, 18 river miles distant. Novices should pull out at that point, as after the highway it gets way hairier.

Delta River Canoe RouteCANOEING

This 35-mile paddle starts at Tangle Lakes Campground and ends a few hundred yards from Mile 212.5 of the Richardson Hwy. After crossing Round Tangle Lake, the route continues to Lower Tangle Lake, where you must make a portage around a waterfall.

Below the falls is a set of class III rapids that you must either line for 2 miles or paddle if you’re an experienced hand. Be warned, though, that every year canoeists damage their boats beyond repair on these rapids and have to hike 15 miles back to the Denali Hwy. After the rapids, the remainder of the route is a much milder trip, though there are still class II sections.

For a more thorough overview and map, download the Delta National Wild and Scenic River brochure from the BLM website (www.blm.gov).

Upper Tangle Lakes Canoe RouteCANOEING

Though an easier and shorter paddle than the Delta River Canoe Route, this one does require four portages (unmarked but easy to work out in the low-bush tundra). The route starts at the Delta Wayside at Mile 21.7 of the Denali Hwy, and then passes through Upper Tangle Lake before ending at Dickey Lake, 9 miles to the south. There is a 1.2-mile portage into Dickey Lake.

From here, experienced paddlers can continue by following Dickey Lake’s outlet to the southeast into the Middle Fork of the Gulkana River. For the first 3 miles the river is shallow and mild, but then it plunges into a steep canyon where canoeists have to contend with class III and IV rapids. Most canoeists choose to line their boats, though some make a portage. Allow seven days for the 76-mile trip from Tangle Lakes to Sourdough Creek Campground on the Gulkana River off the Richardson Hwy.

All paddlers trying this route must have topo maps. The useful BLM brochure Gulkana National Wild River Floater’s Guide can be downloaded from the BLM website (www.blm.gov).

TTours

Denali Jeep ExcursionDRIVING

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-683-5337; www.denalijeep.com; Mile 238.6, George Parks Hwy; adult/child $169/99; htours depart 7:30am & 6:30pm summer)

These jeep tours offer the opportunity to experience the highway for those without their own car. The five-hour trips go roughly halfway along the entire route from Cantwell. Jeeps travel in convoy with a guide and are equipped with CBs to aid communication. You can either handle the driving yourself, or travel as a passenger.

4Sleeping

Clearwater Mountain LodgeB&B$

(%907-203-1057; www.clearwatermountainlodge.com; Mile 82; r without/with breakfast $86/100, cabin $147; p)

Accommodation skews toward the expensive when you get this deep into the bush, but the Clearwater is both reasonably priced and nicely appointed, with cozy rooms decorated with quilty Alaskan art and furs. You can also tent camp on the ground ($10). Breakfasts are delicious, and we want to come back for more of them.

Brushkana Creek CampgroundCAMPGROUND$

(%907-822-3217; Mile 104.3, Denali Hwy; tent sites $12; p)

If you can’t find your own little hideaway tent spot off the highway, this campground offers 22 not-very-private sites, a picnic shelter, drinking water and a meat rack for the hunters who invade the area in late summer and fall.

oDenali Highway CabinsCABIN$$

(%907-987-0977; www.denalihwy.com; Denali Hwy; tent cabin $195, cabins with breakfast $250-295; W)

A couple of hundred feet from the junction with Richardson Hwy, this place is pure Alaskan gold. It’s got pedigree (it’s the oldest running lodge on the highway), authority (it’s run by naturalist Dr Audubon Bakewell, co-author of the Birding in Alaska guide) and fine accommodation.

The modern log cabins, each with a private balcony, sit along the Gulkana River, and feature real flush toilets, among other civilized comforts. There are also surprisingly cozy prefab tents and a communal ‘great room’ with books, grand piano and painting easel. The owners welcome guests on their highly regarded birding and river tours.

Tangle River InnLODGE$$

(%907-822-3970; www.tangleriverinn.com; Mile 20, Denali Hwy; r without/with bath $95/125, cabins $170, dm $48; pW)

Though at first it may appear to be a truck stop, this is in fact a well-run lodge with a good range of sleeping options. There are private cabins, family rooms and a bunkhouse (groups only) spread across the gravel hilltop. The restaurant serves tasty home-style meals with tranquil views of Sugarloaf Mountain and the Tangle Lakes thrown in for free.

The lodge is popular with anglers but come June, bird-watchers flock from all corners of the world to set their binoculars on Arctic warblers, wheateaters and golden plovers, among many other winged worthies.

MacLaren River LodgeLODGE$$

(%907-331-3518; www.maclarenlodge.com; Mile 42, Denali Hwy; r with shared bath/cabins/r $$60/100/150; W)

The lodge sits on the edge of the MacLaren River and features a bar and restaurant open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Some of the lodging is set inside Whitney’s Cabin, the oldest cabin on the Denali Hwy, while the rooms are remodeled Atco units.

Denali & the Interior

Denali & the Interior

Why Go?

When to Go

Best Places to Eat

Best Places to Stay

Denali & the Interior Highlights

HIKING & PADDLING IN DENALI & THE INTERIOR

Hiking the Dixie Pass Route

HIKING THE CHENA DOME TRAIL

KESUGI RIDGE TRAIL

PADDLING BEAVER CREEK

WICKERSHAM DOME TRAIL

History

Denali National Park & Preserve

History

1Park Road

DENALI PLANNING GUIDE

1Savage River to Eielson Visitor Center

1Eielson to Kantishna

SCALING THE MOUNTAIN

A MOUNTAIN BY ANY OTHER NAME

THE STAMPEDE TRAIL AND THE MAGIC BUS

4Within the Park

4Kantishna

4Canyon

4McKinley Village

4Carlo Creek

4Healy

5Within the Park

5Canyon

5McKinley Village

5Carlo Creek

5Healy

George Parks Highway

Talkeetna

Denali State Park

Cantwell & Broad Pass

Nenana

Denali Highway

`1`Park Road

`1`Savage River to Eielson Visitor Center

`1`Eielson to Kantishna

`4`Within the Park

`4`Kantishna

`4`Canyon

`4`McKinley Village

`4`Carlo Creek

`4`Healy

`5`Within the Park

`5`Canyon

`5`McKinley Village

`5`Carlo Creek

`5`Healy