Kodiak, Katmai & Southwest Alaska
Kodiak Island
Kodiak
Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge
Alaska Peninsula
King Salmon
Katmai National Park & Preserve
Aleutian Islands
Unalaska & Dutch Harbor
Kodiak, Katmai & Southwest Alaska
Why Go?
The elongated Alaska Peninsula marks the extreme western extension of the North American continent. Tapering out into the Bering Sea like a curled crocodile’s tail, it’s a jumble of treeless emerald hills, precipitous cliffs and conical snow-capped peaks heavy with reminders of an erstwhile Russian culture and a still surviving Aleut one.
In the east sit Kodiak Island and Katmai National Park where you can indulge in what are, arguably, the best salmon fishing and brown-bear viewing opportunities on the planet.
Equally special are the surreal landscapes of the lower peninsula and the nebulous Aleutian Islands beyond. The Alaska Marine Highway System runs an economical ferry route, weaving its way twice monthly between Kodiak and Dutch Harbor, stopping at half a dozen pin-prick-sized, off-the-grid communities along the way. Replete with breaching whales, smoking volcanoes and poignant WWII sites, this could well be the best water-based excursion in the state.
When to Go
- Jun Decent bear viewing and salmon fishing but with fewer crowds at the hot spots.
- Jul Salmon are running, bears are fishing and humans are hoping to glimpse them both.
- May–Sep The Alaska ferry runs to the Lower Alaska Peninsula and Aleutian Islands.
Best Places to Stay
Kodiak, Katmai & Southwest Alaska Highlights
1 Brooks Falls Photographing brown bears as they snap salmon from a waterfall in Katmai National Park & Preserve.
2 Dutch Harbor Hiking to poignant WWII fortifications.
3 MV Tustumena Riding an Alaska Marine Highway ferry amid breaching whales and smoking volcanoes.
4 Remote Landscapes Treading where few feet have trodden before, such as Aniakchak National Monument.
5 Kodiak Island Renting a bicycle to tackle the small scenic road system.
6 Russian Heritage Investigating a fascinating period of regional history in Kodiak.
HIKING & PADDLING IN KODIAK, KATMAI & THE SOUTHWEST
Paddling Savonoski Loop
Start/End Brooks Camp
Distance 5–10 days/86 miles
Difficulty Intermediate, Class I–II water
This paddle begins and ends at Brooks Camp and takes paddlers into remote sections of Katmai National Park & Preserve, offering the best in wilderness adventure without expensive bush-plane travel.
Although there’s no white water, the trip is still challenging, with the hardest section being the 12-mile run of the Savonoski River, which is braided and has many sandbars and fallen trees. The Savonoski is also prime brown-bear habitat and for this reason park rangers recommend paddling the river in a single day and not camping along it.
The first section through Naknek Lake is especially scenic and well protected at the end where you dip in and out of the Bay of Islands. You’re then faced with a mile-long portage trail (often a muddy and insect-laden trek) that begins at Fure’s Cabin and leads to Lake Grosvenor and the Grosvenor River. Then head down the Savonoski River, which brings you to the last leg, a 20-mile paddle along the south shore of the Iliuk Arm back to Brooks Camp.
Paddlers should be aware that Katmai is famous for its sudden and violent storms, some lasting days. The preferred mode of travel here is a kayak, due to the sudden winds and the rough nature of the big lakes.
See Katmai National Park & Preserve for information on reservations and getting to the area. Most visitors either fly in with a folding kayak or rent a kayak from Lifetime Adventures near Anchorage. Folding kayaks are $55/65 per day for a single/double or $245/280 per week. The outfitter can also arrange an unguided, week-long trip that includes airfare from Anchorage to King Salmon, floatplane charter to Brooks Camp and folding kayaks from $950 per person.
With bear-spotting paddle trips, hikes through mossy coastal forests and a stroll around one of the state’s most interesting WWII sights, Southwest Alaska features trips for varied abilities and interests.
TERMINATION POINT LOOP
Start/End White Sands Beach Parking Lot
duration/Distance 3 hours/5 miles
Difficulty Moderate
Beginning at the end of Monashka Bay Rd, on the edge of the White Sands Beach parking lot, this hike cuts through a wide variety of terrains, including a lush Sitka spruce forest, low meadows, bogs and one beautiful coastal stretch. It’s not the easiest trail to navigate, with one section traipsing through a thick forest. If you’re unsure about navigation, head out with an experienced hiker who’s familiar with the trail, or skip the forest and head straight to the beach portion, taking the same route back to avoid it entirely.
The trail begins easily enough as a clear footpath, but once you’re deep into the forest, the path is crisscrossed with game trails and ATV tracks, and can get confusing under the cover of the moss-laden spruces. Keep an eye on your direction (east) and eventually you’ll make it to the shore.
On the coast, Termination Point will be to your right, jutting out into the sea. In summer, the point is blanketed in wildflowers such as purple-pink fireweed and blue lupines. Stop for lunch and gaze out into the water, keeping your eyes peeled for whales – humpbacks can often be spotted nearby.
Hang a right to follow the coast past the point to make your way back along the shore of Monashka Bay. Take your time here to peer into the tidepools along the beach or listen to the squawks of bald eagles in the trees. The shore turns inland back at White Sands Beach.
ALEUTIAN WORLD WAR II NATIONAL HISTORIC AREA
Start Personnel Barracks
End Base End Station
duration/Distance 1 hour/1.2 miles
Difficulty Easy
Encompassing the former site of US Army Base Fort Schwatka, The Aleutian World War II National Historic Area makes for an easy hike, passing solemn reminders of the island’s WWII history framed by excellent views of the coast. Visitors must first obtain a land-use permit (daily/weekly $6/15) from the Ounalashka Corporation.
The hike begins at the ruins of the personnel barracks, now just a pile of sheet metal and sun-whitened boards in a meadow, but during the war it provided housing for around 234 men. To the northeast, you’ll come to the site of Officer Country, which were comfortable, four-person huts with their own recreational facilities, latrines and even an Officer’s Club where booze was provided.
Follow the road northward and you’ll reach a large, rusty metal pipe sticking out of the hill. Look closely, and you’ll see a thick blast wall sticking out of the hillside. This is the steel bunker and magazine war reserve. These structures were built with heavy, corrugated steel and buried underground so they couldn’t be spotted by enemy aircraft flying overhead.
Turning left and heading northwest, you’ll come to the Harbor Entrance Command Post, from which all approaching vessels were monitored for enemy infiltrators. The structure housed radar and plotting equipment, and was entirely self-sufficient in case of attack.
Continuing along the road, you’ll reach the Battery Command Station, a three-level bunker that served to both spot enemies and target attacks, located on the right side of the road overlooking the cliff. Firing orders were delivered next door, to Battery 402, a horseshoe-shaped structure that included two 8-inch guns at the end of each ‘heel’. These guns were 30ft long, weighed 52 tons and could fire a 240lb shell up to 22 miles. The circular concrete platforms are all that remain of the gun mounts today.
DAY TRIPS FROM KODIAK
Perched on the edge of the wilderness, Kodiak is the perfect place from which to venture into the emerald beauty of the rest of the island.
BEAR VIEWING IN KODIAK NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
Thousands of miles of undisturbed wilderness, brown bears the size of small cars and a sawtooth horizon of snow-dusted peaks, Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge is Alaska at its best: remote, wild and beautiful. Floatplane tours depart from Kodiak almost hourly, so your chances of snagging a ride are excellent.
3 Best Things to See/Do/Eat
1Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center Located downtown, this visitor center is a must-see featuring interpretive displays and activities for a variety of age groups (including adults!). It’s the perfect jumping-off point into the refuge. Make sure to run your hands across the sea otter pelt and take notes on the yearly habits of Kodiak bears.
2 Sea Hawk Air Taking a small-group tour into the refuge is one of the best ways to experience it firsthand. Bear-viewing tours via floatplane include a guided hike, lunch and plenty of bears. The scenic flight is icing on the cake.
5 Aquamarine Cafe & Suites Swap grizzly stories over a burger and a beer at this downtown eatery right across from the harbor.
3 How to Get There
Air The only method of transport into these remote parts. A variety of floatplane companies operate out of Trident Basin or Lily Lake in Kodiak.
FORT ABERCROMBIE STATE PARK
Merging your average Alaskan beauty with a unique glimpse of a WWII-era outpost, Fort Abercrombie State Park makes for an excellent half- or full-day trip out of Kodiak. The park is set in an exceptional northern temperate rainforest dominated by Sitka spruce and wildflower meadows, but the real story is hidden in the abandoned military structures that dot the park.
3 Best Things to See/Do/Eat
1 WWII History The pair of rusty 8-inch guns on Miller Point signal the area’s strategic importance during WWII. These guns, as well as the bunkers and pillboxes that line the cliffs, are a fascinating reminder of how close the war came to American shores. The Kodiak Military History Museum also collects WWII-era communication equipment and weaponry.
2 Hiking Trails Easy-to-moderate trails cut through the mossy forests of Fort Abercrombie State Park, passing disused observation towers and weapons caches, wildflower meadows and scenic cliffs.
5 Kodiak Hana Watch fishing boats glide by over rolls of sushi sourced from local fish – you might be watching your next meal come in to port.
3 How to Get There
Bike Rent a bike from 58 Degrees North and hit the road.
Car Just a mile down E Rezanof Dr, Fort Abercrombie is an easy drive in a rental or a taxi.
FOSSIL BEACH
At the end of a very long road, the stark, isolated beauty of Fossil Beach is a highlight of any trip to Kodiak Island. Lined with the fossilized remains of shells and other sea creatures, a visit here will have you hunting for that next specimen to add to your collection.
3 Best Things to See/Do/Eat
1 Fossil Cliffs Gaze at the textures and patterns of a cliff face eons in the making, featuring bulbous cementations (mineral deposits), layers of sediment and ancient creatures embedded in the cliff.
2 Beachcombing and Tidepooling At low tide, the area is a scavenger hunt of sea creatures – both live and fossilized – in the tidepools and rock piles that line the shore.
5 Java Flats All wood surfaces and friendly faces, this small cafe in Bell’s Flats is the perfect place to wrap up a day over a hot chocolate or a saucer-sized cookie.
3 How to Get There
Car At 46 miles from town one-way, a car is the only way to get here, but the drive, winding between mountain meadows and wide bays, is excellent.
History
Of all the state’s regions, Southwest Alaska has had the most turbulent history, marked by massacres, violent volcanic eruptions and WWII bombings.
When Stepan Glotov and his Russian fur-trading party landed at present-day Dutch Harbor in 1759, there were more than 30,000 Aleuts living on Unalaska and Amaknak Islands. After the Aleuts destroyed four ships and killed 175 fur hunters in 1763, the Russians returned and began a systematic elimination of Aleuts, massacring or enslaving them. It’s estimated that by the end of the 19th century there were only 2000 Aleuts left on the islands.
The Russians first landed on Kodiak Island in 1763 and returned 20 years later when Siberian fur trader Grigorii Shelikof established a settlement at Three Saints Bay. Shelikof’s attempts to ‘subdue’ the indigenous people resulted in another bloodbath where more than 1000 Alutiiqs were massacred or drowned during their efforts to escape.
The czar recalled Shelikof and in 1791 sent Aleksandr Baranov to manage the Russian-American Company. After an earthquake nearly destroyed the settlement at Three Saints Bay, Baranov moved his operations to more stable ground at present-day Kodiak. It became a bustling port and was the capital of Russian America until 1804, when Baranov moved again, this time to Sitka.
Some of the past violence experienced in Southwest Alaska had natural causes. In 1912, Mt Katmai on the nearby Alaska Peninsula erupted, blotting out the sun for three days and blanketing Kodiak with 18in of ash. Kodiak’s 400 residents escaped to sea on a ship but soon returned to find buildings collapsed, ash drifts several feet high and spawning salmon choking in ash-filled streams.
The town was a struggling fishing port until WWII when it became the major staging area for the North Pacific operations. At one point Kodiak’s population topped 25,000, with a submarine base at Women’s Bay, an army outpost at Buskin River and gun emplacements protecting Fort Abercrombie.
Kodiak was spared from attack during WWII, but the Japanese bombed Unalaska only six months after bombing Pearl Harbor, and then invaded Attu and Kiska Islands. More hardship followed: the Good Friday Earthquake of 1964 leveled downtown Kodiak and wiped out its fishing fleet; the king-crab fishery crashed in the early 1980s; and the Exxon Valdez oil spill soiled the coastline at the end of the decade. But this region rebounded after each disaster, and today Unalaska and Kodiak are among the top three fishing ports in the country.
8Getting There & Away
Alaska Airlines and PenAir (
%800-448-4226; www.penair.com) service the region and one or the other provides daily flights to Kodiak, King Salmon, Unalaska, Dillingham and Bethel. Ravn Alaska also flies to Kodiak from a number of destinations throughout Alaska including Anchorage. Grant Aviation (%888-359-4726; www.flygrant.com) provides air travel to remote villages in the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta, the Aleutians and Bristol Bay.
The most affordable way to reach the region is via the Alaska Marine Highway ferry, which has stops at Kodiak, Unalaska and a handful of small communities in between.
Kodiak Island
Kodiak is the island of plenty. Consider its famous brown bears, the second-largest ursine creatures in the world (after the polar bear). Thanks to an unblemished ecosystem and an unlimited diet of rich salmon that spawn in Kodiak’s lakes and rivers, adult male bears can weigh up to 1400lb.
Part of the wider Kodiak Archipelago and the second-largest island in the US after Hawaii’s Big Island, Kodiak acts as a kind of ecological halfway house between the forested Alaskan Panhandle and the treeless Aleutian Islands. Its velvety green mountains and sheltered, ice-free bays were the site of the earliest Russian settlement in Alaska and are still home to one of the US’s most important fishing fleets.
The island’s main attraction – beyond its bears – is its quiet Alaskan authenticity. Only a small northeastern section of Kodiak is populated. The rest is roadless wilderness protected in the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge.
1Sights
oFort Abercrombie State Historical ParkPARK
(www.dnr.alaska.gov/parks; Abercrombie Dr; $5 per vehicle per day)
This military fort, 4.5 miles northeast of Kodiak, off Monashka Bay Rd, was built by the US Army during WWII to defend against a Japanese invasion that never came. In the end, Kodiak’s lousy weather kept the Japanese bombers away from the island. The fort is now a 186-acre state historical park, sitting majestically on the cliffs above scenic Monashka Bay.
Between its pair of 8in guns is Ready Ammunition Bunker, which stored 400 rounds of ammunition during the war. Today it contains the small Kodiak Military History Museum (%907-486-7015; 1417 Mill Bay Road; adult/child $5/free; 
h1-4pm Fri-Mon).
Just as interesting as the gun emplacements are the tidal pools found along the park’s rocky shorelines, where an afternoon can be spent searching for sea creatures.
Afognak Island State ParkSTATE PARK
Afognak Island lies just north of Kodiak Island in the archipelago. Some 75,000 acres of Afognak are protected in pristine Afognak Island State Park, which has two public-use cabins: Laura Lake Cabin and Pillar Lake Cabin. The cabin at Pillar Lake is a short walk from a beautiful mile-long beach. Both cabins are accessed by floatplane, cost $45 a night, and are reserved through Alaska Division of Parks (%907-486-6339; 1400 Abercrombie Dr; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri, varies Sat & Sun). You can check cabin availability and make reservations online six months ahead.
Shuyak Island State ParkSTATE PARK
The northernmost island in the Kodiak Archipelago, remote and undeveloped Shuyak is 54 air miles north of Kodiak. It’s only 12 miles long and 11 miles wide, but almost all the island’s 47,000 acres are taken up by Shuyak Island State Park, featuring forests of virgin Sitka spruce and a rugged shoreline dotted with secluded beaches. Otters, sea lions and Dall porpoises inhabit offshore waters, while black-tailed deer and a modest population of famous Kodiak brown bears roam the interior.
Kayakers enjoy superb paddling in Shuyak’s numerous sheltered inlets, coves and channels – the area boasts more protected waterways than anywhere else in the archipelago. Most of the kayaking takes place in and around Big Bay, the heart of the state park. From the bay you can paddle and portage to four public cabins and other protected bays.
The park’s four cabins are on Big Bay, Neketa Bay and Carry Inlet. The cabins ($80 per night) are cedar structures with bunks for eight, woodstoves, propane lights and cooking stoves, but no running water. Shuyak Island cabins are also reserved through Alaska Division of Parks and can be reserved six months in advance online.
Fossil BeachBEACH
At the end of Pasagshak Rd, 46 miles from Kodiak, the cliffs on each side of this remote beach are lined with bowling-ball-sized concretions (where sand and silt has been cemented in minerals), the fossils of ancient shells and other protuberances from the past. Head out during low tide and you can make your way around the easternmost cliff to spot more fossils entombed in the sandstone. Keep an eye out for the herd of scraggly bison that roam the area.
For a bit of WWII history, make your way up the hillside just to the left from where the road ends. At the top, you’ll see a series of bunkers and the remains of a searchlight station on Narrow Cape.
2Activities
The Kodiak area has dozens of hiking trails, but few are maintained and trailheads are not always marked. Windfall and overgrowth can make following the track difficult, or even totally conceal it. Still, hiking trails are the best avenues to the natural beauty of Kodiak Island.
The best source of hiking information is the Alaska Division of Parks or the excellent Kodiak Audubon’s Hiking & Birding Guide (sold at various places around town, including the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center for $12), a large waterproof topographical map with notes on the trails and birds.
For transportation and company on the trail, the local Audubon Society offers group hikes almost every Saturday and Sunday during summer, meeting at 9:30am at the Kodiak Island Visitor Center parking lot. You can get a list of the hikes and the contact person from the visitor center or the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center.
Pillar MountainHIKING
The de rigueur hike for anyone with a couple of hours to spare, Pillar Mountain is the 1270ft summit that overlooks Kodiak town, with its sentinel wind turbines on top. If you want to get a glimpse of the island’s velvety greenness and enjoy a bird’s-eye view of the town, this provides instant gratification.
Pick up the bumpy dirt road to the top by walking or driving north up Thorsheim Ave and turning left on Maple Ave, which runs into Pillar Mountain Rd. You’ll end up where the giant wind turbines slice through the fog. It’s 2 miles one-way, but there are miles of trails along the ridge.
Pyramid MountainHIKING
(Anton Larsen Bay Rd)
The trail up Pyramid Mountain (2400ft) takes hikers up a steep, exposed shoulder of alpine tundra but rewards them with pleasant views of the valley that leads toward Anton Larsen Bay. Keep an eye out for bears while you spot wildflowers and upland birds.
Two trails, both of which start on Anton Larsen Bay Rd, lead to the top of Pyramid Mountain. Avoid the easternmost trail, accessed from the golf course, which is brush-choked and hard going. Instead, continue west to Anton Larsen Pass, where the other trail begins in the parking area on the right. It’s a steep but easy-to-follow 2-mile climb to the top.
Barometer Mountain TrailHIKING
At a peak elevation of 2500ft, it might not sound high, but climbing Barometer is a tough grunt that shouldn’t be taken lightly. With loose stones, several steep sections, and a couple of tear-inducing false summits, you’d better have good balance, a strong will and strong knees, especially on the way down.
The 4-mile out-and-back trail starts just past the airport runway as you head south on Chiniak Rd where there’s a pullover and small sign. The path bends through trees at the start, then branches uphill through high bushes, and ultimately follows a steep open ridge. Scrambling is necessary at some sections. The views from the summit are as staggering as your gait. Take plenty of water.
Anton Larsen Pass Loop & PeakHIKING
(Anton Larsen Bay Rd)
This 5-mile loop is a scenic ridge walk and an easy alpine hike. The majority of the route follows a green U-shaped valley lined with wildflowers and excellent views.
The trail begins just north of the gravel parking lot, at the pass on the left side of Anton Larsen Bay Rd. A well-defined trail leads you through meadows; at a fork, the trail heads right to cross a bridge and climbs to a broad alpine ridge. Once on top, use the rolling ridge to skirt a distinctive glacial valley before descending back to the fork in the trail.
TTours
Kodiak Brown Bear CenterWILDLIFE WATCHING
(%907-433-7900; https://kodiakbearcenter.com/en; 194 Alimaq Dr)
Runs bear-viewing excursions out of its remote lodge in the Kodiak Wilderness. Tours are booked as part of packages that include lodging, guided bear viewing, meals and transportation to and from Kodiak (from $4575 for four days).
4Sleeping
Sleeping options on Kodiak Island are split into two groups: the inns, hotels and B&Bs found in Kodiak; or the remote lodges that populate the deep wilderness. For the latter, hiring a bush plane is almost always required (and often included in the nightly rate).
Pasagshak State Recreation SiteCAMPGROUND$
(http://dnr.alaska.gov/parks/aspunits/kodiak/pasagsrs.htm; 20 Pasagshak River Rd; tent sites $15)
Forty-five miles outside of town, this recreation site has six first-come, first-served tent sites on the peaceful banks of the Pasagshak River where it meets the bay of the same name.
Fort Abercrombie State Historical Park CampgroundCAMPGROUND$
(http://dnr.alaska.gov/parks/units/kodiak/ftaber.htm; Mile 4, E Rezanof Dr; tent & RV sites $10)
Four-and-a-half miles northeast of Kodiak, this park has 13 wooded sites in a delightfully mossy forest. A few are walk-in, and feel very secluded. Trails meander around the bluffs, beach and small lake, and it’s a great place to wander. Camping is first-come, first-served.
Buskin River State Recreation SiteCAMPGROUND$
(http://dnr.alaska.gov/parks/aspunits/kodiak/buskinriversrs.htm; Mile 4.5, W Rezanof Dr; tent sites $15)
Four miles southwest of the city, this 168-acre park includes a 15-site rustic campground, the closest to the city, along with a self-guided nature trail and good salmon fishing in the Buskin River. Camping is first-come, first-served.
Kodiak National Wildlife RefugeCABIN$
(%907-487-2600; www.kodiak.fws.gov; per night $45)
Manages nine public-use cabins on Kodiak and Afognak Island, all of which are accessible by floatplane or boat. Transportation to and from the cabins must be organized separately. Call ahead or reserve online.
oRussian River RoadhouseLODGE$$
(%907-942-1863; www.russianriverroadhouse.com; 11322 S Russian Creek Rd; r from $150)
One five-room lodge and three spacious, private cabins on the property of a former lumberyard (rusted equipment still dots the parking lot).
5Eating & Drinking
oJava FlatsCAFE$
(%907-487-2622; www.javaflats.com; 11206 Rezanof Dr W; breakfast $6-9, lunch $10-12; h7am-3pm Wed-Sun; 
W)
Saying you have the best baking within a 100-mile radius doesn’t always mean much in Alaska where 100 miles is often the distance to the nearest gas station, but, take it on trust, the homemade cookies at Java are to visiting homo sapiens what salmon is to Kodiak’s oversized bears. It also serves mean soups, sandwiches and salads.
Java is located at Bell’s Flats, 10 miles south of Kodiak town, but it’s well worth the journey – even if you’re cycling.
RendezvousBAR
(%907-487-2233; www.facebook.com/rendezvous.kodiak/; 11652 Chiniak Hwy; h11am-late; W)
This bar and restaurant is a 15-minute drive out of town past the Coast Guard base, but its atmosphere is worth the trip. It hosts the best live music in Kodiak, with singers taking to the stage several times a month.
The clam chowder is a crowd-pleaser.
8Getting There & Away
Most travelers arriving on Kodiak Island come via plane or boat through Kodiak town.
8Getting Around
Roads only serve the northeast part of the island around Kodiak town – and even then they are simply miles of unpaved gravel. Renting a car, which typically costs from $60 per day), is essential.
Island Air (%907-487-4596; www.flyadq.com; 1420 Airport Way) provides daily scheduled flights to outlying villages and lodges that dot the island. Expect to pay $66 to $125 for a one-way ticket.
Kodiak
%907 / Pop 6191
Kodiak is one of outback Alaska’s most pleasant towns; big enough to find uninterrupted wi-fi and a decent latte, but small enough to be laid-back and friendly. The locals are a congenial bunch who passionately love their town and aren’t afraid to tell you. Glimpses of onion domes through the standard strip-mall architecture hint at an erstwhile Russian heritage, while crowds of trawlers in the harbor testify to Kodiak’s modern mantle as one of Alaska’s largest fishing ports, with 650 boats, including the state’s largest trawl, longline and crab vessels. The fleet and the 12 shore-based processors include the Star of Kodiak, a WWII vessel converted into a fish plant downtown.
Despite its hardworking reputation, there’s plenty for outsiders to do in Kodiak, including two excellent museums and a historical park.
1Sights
oAlutiiq Museum & Archaeological RepositoryMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %844-425-8844, 907-486-7004; www.alutiiqmuseum.org; 215 Mission Rd; adult/child $7/free; h10am-4pm Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat)
The Alutiiqs (not to be confused with the Aleuts) are the subject of this brilliant Alaska Native museum. They were the original inhabitants of the Kodiak archipelago and many of them remain members of the Russian Orthodox Church. Like many native groups, their population was decimated during the 19th century, and the museum protects some precious native heritage.
There’s information on the Alutiiq language (now being taught again in local schools), exhibits on harpoons and tools, masked dancing and details of some 1000-year-old petroglyphs found in the archipelago.
Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge Visitor CenterWILDLIFE RESERVE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-487-2626; www.fws.gov/refuge/kodiak; 402 Center St; h9am-5pm; 
c) 
F
This excellent visitor center focuses on the Kodiak brown bear, the most famous resident of the refuge, with an exhibit room that’s especially well suited to children, a short film on the bears and a bookstore. A variety of kids’ programs are offered, with the schedule posted on the front door. Interested in seeing a big bruin? Stop here first.
St Paul Boat HarborHARBOR
The pulse of this city can be found in its two boat harbors. St Paul Boat Harbor is downtown and the larger of the two. Begin with the Harbor Walkway (MAP GOOGLE MAP; Shelikof St), where a series of interesting interpretive displays line the boardwalk above the docks. Then descend to the rows of vessels, where you can talk to the crews or even look for a job.
Kodiak Fisheries Research CenterAQUARIUM
(%907-481-1800; www.afsc.noaa.gov; Trident Way; h8am-4:30pm Mon-Sat, closed Sat in winter; c) F
Opened in 1998 using funds from the Exxon-Valdez oil spill settlements, the center has an interesting lobby that includes displays about local marine life and a 19ft Cuvier’s beaked whale skeleton suspended from the ceiling. Downstairs there are kid-friendly touch tanks and a large aquarium.
North End ParkPARK
(Trident Way; c) F
Reached as soon as you cross the bridge, this small park is laced with easy, forested trails that converge at a stairway to the shoreline. At low tide you can search the tidepools here for starfish, sea anemones and other marine life.
Baranov MuseumMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-486-5920; www.baranovmuseum.org; 101 Marine Way; adult/child $5/free; h10am-4pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm winter)
Housed in the oldest Russian structure in Alaska, across the street from the visitor center, the Baranov Museum fills Erskine House, which the Russians built in 1808 as a storehouse for precious sea-otter pelts. Today it holds many items from the Russian period of Kodiak’s history, along with fine examples of Alutiiq basketry and carvings.
A set of notebooks covers Katmai’s historical events, including the 1964 tsunami, volcanic eruptions and both World Wars. The gift shop is particularly interesting, offering a wide selection of matreshkas (nesting dolls), brass samovars and other Russian crafts.
Holy Resurrection CathedralCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-486-5532; 308 Kashevarof St; h8am-noon Sun, 5-7pm Thu, to 8pm Sat)
Near the Alutiiq Museum on Mission Rd, Holy Resurrection Church serves the oldest Russian Orthodox parish in the New World, established in 1794. The present church, marked by its beautiful blue onion domes, was built in 1945 and is the third one to occupy this site.
2Activities
Cycling
On a clear, sunny day, cycling on Kodiak’s 75 miles of paved, relatively quiet roads is heaven. Traffic is only thick around the town and thins out dramatically south of the airport. A spin down to Bell’s Flats (10 miles south of town) for lunch in Java Flats cafe is a must. And why stop there? The mainly unpaved, 12-mile Anton Larsen Bay Rd is popular with mountain bikers and crosses a mountain pass to the island’s west side, where you will find quiet coves and shorelines to explore. With long daylight hours, a ride down to Pasagshak Bay, 46 miles south of Kodiak town, is not out of the question.
58 Degrees NorthCYCLING
(%907-486-6249; https://58-degrees.com; 1231 Mill Bay Rd; per day $35; h11am-6pm Mon-Sat)
A friendly outdoor shop that rents out mountain bikes. Rental includes helmet and lock. Ask for recommended trails to ride based on your experience and skill level.
Kayak Kodiak is run out of the same shop.
Paddling
With its many bays and protected inlets, scenic coastline and offshore rookeries, Kodiak is a kayaker’s dream. Kayak Kodiak (%907-512-5112; http://kayakingkodiak.com; 1231 Mill Bay Rd; tours from $89) rents out expedition sea kayaks (from $69 per day) to experienced kayakers, as well as providing guided tours.
Bear Viewing
Second in size only to the polar bear, Kodiak’s famous 1000lb-plus brown bears are a major attraction. Various floatplane operators take bear spotters on half-day tours. Multi-day tours can be arranged through remote lodges such as the Kodiak Brown Bear Center.
For day-trippers, Frazer Lake is Kodiak Island’s most common bear-viewing destination. The lake is the second-largest salmon run on the island, and the bears know it. At peak times, up to 10 bears can be spotted. There’s a 200ft fish ladder that can spoil perfect wildlife photos, but if your only goal is to see these massive ursine beasts, this is your best chance.
Several tour operators fly to the Katmai Coast to spot bears, and while these bears are certainly majestic, they aren’t technically the Kodiak subspecies. When booking your tour, ask where the operator plans to go.
Kodiak weather can change at any time, so it’s best to book a bear-viewing tour early in your trip – if it’s canceled you have more chance of rescheduling at a later date.
TTours
oSea Hawk AirWILDLIFE WATCHING
(%907-486-8282; www.seahawkair.com; 506 Trident Way; tours $575)
Flying a de Havilland Beaver floatplane that can carry up to six passengers, this operator departs out of Trident Basin and heads to either Katmai National Park & Reserve or to Kodiak Island, depending on where the bears are. Owners Jo and Rolan pack the tour with local knowledge and exceptional service.
Kodiak Audubon HikesHIKING
(MAP; http://kodiakaudubon.blogspot.com; 100 Marine Way, Suite 200)
Kodiak’s Audubon Society hosts free guided hikes on most Saturdays and Sundays in summer. Groups meet in front of the Kodiak Island Visitor Center at 9:30am. Hikes are rated from 1 (easy) to 5 (difficult) and are led by knowledgeable Audubon members. Bring lunch and water.
Fish n Chip ChartersFISHING
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-539-6135; www.fishingkodiak.net; 301 Cope St; day trip $350)
These guys can sort you out with what is – let’s face it – the quintessential Kodiak experience: fishing. Captain Dave has decades of experience and a custom 33ft boat. Equipment is provided and you can get your catch processed afterward.
Galley GourmetBOATING
(%907-486-5079; www.galleygourmet.biz; 1223 Kouskov St; dinner cruise $175)
Along with whale-watching and harbor cruises, Marty and Marion Owen offer a delightful dinner cruise aboard their 42ft yacht. Marty navigates the boat while Marion whips up meals – such as salmon Kiev with king-crab sauce, or apricots and marinated halibut wrapped in bacon – and serves them on white table linen with views of coastal scenery and wildlife.
This is about as locavore as Kodiak gets: most veggies and ingredients for Marion’s meals are plucked straight from their home garden.
Kingfisher AviationWILDLIFE WATCHING
(%907-486-5155, 866-486-5155; www.kingfisheraviation.com; 1829 Mill Bay Rd; tours per person $525)
Four-hour bear-viewing excursions to either Kodiak or Katmai on the mainland depending on the season. You travel on four-passenger floatplanes.
zFestivals & Events
Kodiak Crab FestivalCULTURAL
(www.kodiakchamber.org; Marine Way E)
The town’s best festival, it was first held in 1958 to celebrate the end of crabbing season. Today the week-long festival in late May features parades, a blessing of the fleet, bike and foot races, fishing-skills contests (such as a survival-suit race) and a lot of cooked king crab.
4Sleeping
Lodging is expensive in Kodiak and there’s a 12% sales and bed tax on top of all tariffs. The most current list of B&Bs is on the website of the visitor center (www.kodiak.org).
oChannel View B&BB&B$$
(%907-486-2470; www.kodiakchannelview.com; 1010 Stellar Way; r/ste $145/175; W)
Run by a couple of world travelers, history buffs and art collectors, Channel View offers a range of subtle delights: historic Kodiak photos, fossils collected from the island and arranged in a rainy rock garden, plus original artwork from travels abroad. Room options include a single or a queen, a studio apartment or a one-bedroom apartment.
There are views of the channel below through fir trees and from a spacious deck. Host Mary is a fifth-generation islander, and serves full gourmet breakfasts.
oBest Western Kodiak InnHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %888-563-4254, 907-486-5712; www.kodiakinn.com; 236 W Rezanof Dr; r $210-230; W)
Kodiak’s largest and most upscale motel is downtown and has 81 rooms along with a fine restaurant, outdoor hot tub and airport-shuttle service. Suites run to $290 and are quite large. Also has an Andrew Airways desk in the lobby during the summer.
An Ocean Bay Bed & BreakfastB&B$$
(%907-486-8315; www.oceanbaykodiak.com; 420 W Rezanof Dr; r $135)
Just a few blocks from the main action downtown, this excellent, two-room property overlooking the harbor merges traditional bed & breakfast hospitality with modern, spacious rooms. There are no chintzy antiques here – both rooms are well decorated and spacious, but aim for the upstairs room with roomy vaulted ceilings. Self-serve breakfasts are provided in the form of a well-stocked pantry.
Shelikof LodgeHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-486-4141; www.shelikoflodgealaska.com; 211 Thorsheim Ave; r $135; W)
The Shelikof is beginning to show its age in chipped paint and carpet stains, but a good location downtown, decent rates, plus a good restaurant (breakfast all day) and a lounge make it a solid pick for an overnight in Kodiak. A bonus is the airport shuttle service, which is rare in Kodiak.
5Eating
oMonk’s Rock Coffeehouse & BookstoreCAFE$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 202 W Rezanof Dr; sandwiches $9-11; h8:30am-3pm Tue-Fri, to 1pm Sat)
Part cafe, part library of Russian Orthodox books and icons, Monk’s is an out-of-the-ordinary eating place thanks to its on-site bookshop that might have stepped straight out of Vladivostok. The dining area is comfortable, staff are friendly and the soups are recommended, especially the borscht.
NoodlesTHAI$
(1247 Mill Bay Rd; mains $12-15; h11:30am-2:30pm & 5-9:30pm)
Cornering the market on Thai food in Kodiak, Noodles offers a nice break from the typical meals served in town. Peanut-heavy panang curry and slurp-worthy pad thai will cure those not-salmon-again hunger pangs.
Aquamarine Cafe & SuitesAMERICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-486-2999; 508 W Marine Way; lunch $12, dinner $15-25; h10:30am-10pm)
Modern and chic, the trendy decor pays a nod to Kodiak’s seafaring culture while the food puts quality over quantity with tasty meat and fish dishes served with sides of rice and homemade buns, plus a menu of $15 gourmet burgers – the Lord of the Rings (a beef patty with deep-fried onion rings doused in Sriracha aioli) is highly recommended.
Kodiak HanaJAPANESE$$
(%907-481-1088; 516 Marine Way; lunch special $10-13, dinner $15-25; h11:30am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Thu, 11:30am-2pm & 5-10pm Fri & Sat, 5-9pm Sun)
The best fish in Kodiak are served in this historic power plant which has been beautifully renovated into a Japanese seafood restaurant. The waterfront location places you on an outdoor deck, or in a solarium, watching fishing boats glide right past, while feasting on almost all-local sushi and seafood, or excellent udon, soba and yakisoba noodles.
Royal Baron PizzaPIZZA$$
(MAP; %907-486-4848; 113 Lower Mill Bay Rd; pizzas $15-19; h11am-10pm Mon-Sat, 2-10pm Sun)
Dependable pizza has been a long time coming to Kodiak, and when Royal Baron Pizza replaced a Domino’s that formerly occupied the space, the town was abuzz with the scent of oven-baked pies. Seasoned crusts, gooey cheeses and solid ingredients outshine the average service and lengthy wait times.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Clustered around the city waterfront and small-boat harbor is a handful of bars that cater to Kodiak’s fishing industry. If you visit these at night you’ll find them interesting places, overflowing with skippers, deckhands and cannery workers drinking hard and talking lively.
oKodiak Island Brewing CoMICROBREWERY
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-486-2537; www.kodiakbrewery.com; 117 Lower Mill Bay Rd; hnoon-7pm)
For proof that craft-brewing has reached the frontier, call into Kodiak’s only microbrewery. It operates as a taproom rather than a pub, meaning you can bring your own food as you sample their latest ales, including the signature Liquid Sunshine. Tours of the small brewing operation are available on request.
Harborside Coffee & GoodsCAFE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-486-5862; www.facebook.com/harborsidekodiak; 210 Shelikof St; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat, 7am-5pm Sun; W)
The best cuppa in town can be procured at this fount of fishing-boat gossip right on the harborside. A strong double-shot goes down well while surfing the equally strong wi-fi.
Henry’s Great AlaskanPUB
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-486-8844; www.henrysgreatalaskan.com; 512 Marine Way; h11:30am-9:30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 8:30pm Sun; W)
Henry’s is one of those bar-restaurant hybrids that you forgive poor service and average food for its drink selection. Located on the mall in front of the small-boat harbor, it’s hopping with fishermen and their friends. It’s not as dark or claustrophobic as other venues and the pub menu has plenty of options to soak up the booze.
B & B BarBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 326 Shelikof St; hnoon-late)
Across from the harbor, B & B claims to be Alaska’s oldest bar, having served its first beer in 1899 (its original liquor license is framed on the wall). It’s a fisher’s bar with a giant king crab on the wall, as well as the most level pool table in a town that feels an earthquake now and then. Cash only.
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
ANIAKCHAK – A BLANK SPOT ON THE MAP
More people orbit the earth annually than set foot in Aniakchak National Monument (www.nps.gov/ania), the least visited segment of the US National Park Service’s 400 protected areas. Here the annual visitor count routinely struggles to break two dozen. High travel costs, volatile weather, 1000lb bears (lots of ‘em), and a curious lack of knowledge about the area’s Garden of Eden landscapes deter the bulk of would-be adventurers. What they’re missing defies written description. Imagine a kind of psychedelic cross between Crater Lake and the Ngorongoro Crater with a bit of the Colorado River thrown in for good measure. Aniakchak’s centerpiece is a 6-mile-wide, 2500ft-deep caldera (a massive crater formed when a volcano collapses inward) that sits in the middle of the narrow Alaska Peninsula. The caldera has a dramatic effect on the local weather causing clouds to billow over the edges of the crater rim in what have been christened ‘cloud Niagaras’.
Though known to Alaskan natives for centuries, Aniakchak lay pretty much undiscovered until 1931 when it was explored by a Jesuit priest named Bernard Hubbard who wrote about it enthusiastically in publications such as The New York Times. These days it sees a tiny trickle of intrepid visitors. Most fly to Port Heiden and trek up and over the crater rim carrying folding microkayaks, before descending to Surprise Lake, the remains of a much bigger lake that once sat in the crater. After a portage around a set of dangerous rapids called The Gates at a cleft in the crater rim, basic kayaking skills are required to cruise down the class II rapids of the Aniakchak River toward the Pacific Ocean where an old cannery cabin and a prearranged floatplane pick-up awaits. It’s the trip of a lifetime and one not many get the opportunity to make. For more information contact the Katmai National Park Headquarters in King Salmon.
7Shopping
Norman’s Fine GiftsGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP; %907-486-3315; www.facebook.com/Normansfinegifts; 414 W Marine Way)
If a bit of Alaskan kitsch is what you’re after, Norman’s Fine Gifts is your spot. Peruse the bumper stickers, hooded sweatshirts and baby bibs, but keep an eye out for the odd made-in-Alaska artwork thrown in. Sister shop Norman’s Corner (just a few doors down) is food- and homeware-focused.
8Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Kodiak Island Ambulatory Care Clinic (%907-486-6188; 202 Center Ave, Suite 102; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) For emergency and walk-in medical care.
MONEY
Wells Fargo (%907-486-3126; 202 Marine Way; h10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Has a king-crab display in its ATM vestibule.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Kodiak Island Visitor Center (%907-486-4782, 800-789-4782; www.kodiak.org; 100 Marine Way, Suite 200; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Next to the ferry terminal, with brochures and maps of the city. During summer, the visitor center maintains extended hours to accommodate cruise traffic.
8Getting There & Away
Both Alaska Airlines and its contract carrier Ravn Alaska fly to Kodiak daily. Fares are approximately one-way/return $160/330. The airport is 5 miles south of Kodiak on Chiniak Rd. Other than the offerings from a few motels, there is no shuttle service into town. A&B Taxi (%907-486-4343) charges $20 for the ride.
Between May and September Alaska Marine Highway’s MV Tustumena stops at Kodiak Ferry Terminal (%907-486-3800; www.dot.state.ak.us/amhs/; 100 Marine Way) several times a week, coming from Homer (one-way $85, 9½ hours). Twice a month the ‘Trusty Tusty’ continues west to Unalaska and Dutch Harbor ($337 one-way from Kodiak, two days and 16½ hours). Several times a month the MV Kennicott sails to Kodiak from Homer and Whittier (one-way $85, 9 hours). The office in the ferry terminal, next to the visitor center, prints out tickets. Arrive at least two hours before sailing.
8Getting Around
The settlement of Kodiak is on the east side of the island, with three main roads splintering from the city center, so a set of wheels is essential to experiencing Kodiak beyond the downtown block.
There’s no public transport in Kodiak. You can procure car rental at the airport. Budget Rent-A-Car (%907-487-2220; airport terminal; h6:30am-10:30pm), among others, has a desk, but it isn’t cheap. Bank on around $60 to $90 a day. Other options are to call a taxi, walk, or – if you’re heading outside town – rent a bicycle from 58 Degrees North.
Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge
This 2812-sq-mile preserve, which covers the southern two-thirds of Kodiak Island, all of Ban and Uganik Islands, and a small section of Afognak Island, is the chief stronghold of the Alaska brown bear. An estimated 3500 bears reside in the refuge and the surrounding area, which is known worldwide for brown-bear viewing and hunting, and for salmon and steelhead fishing. Birdlife is plentiful: more than 200 species have been recorded, and there are 600 breeding pairs of eagles that nest within the refuge.
The refuge’s diverse habitat ranges from rugged mountains and alpine meadows to wetlands, spruce forest and grassland. No roads enter the refuge, and no maintained trails lie within it.
TTours
Mid-July to mid-September is the best time to see bears, and the most common way to do it is with a bear-sighting flight. The average tour is a four-hour trip that includes two hours on the ground photographing bears, and costs $500 to $575 per person.
Kodiak TreksBEAR WATCHING
(%907-487-2122; www.kodiaktreks.com; tours per person $375) 
S
Low-impact, small-group bear-watching trips from a remote lodge on an island in Uyak Bay. Noted bear biologist Harry Dodge leads guests from the lodge, by boat and boot, to various viewing spots to see up to two dozen bears. Costs cover lodging, meals and equipment but not your charter flight to Uyak Bay.
8Getting There & Away
Access into the park is by charter plane or boat out of Kodiak, and most of the refuge lies at least 25 air miles away.
Alaska Peninsula
The Alaska Range doesn’t suddenly stop at Denali. It keeps marching southwest to merge with the Aleutian Range and form the vertebrae of the Alaska Peninsula, Alaska’s rugged arm that reaches out for the Aleutian Islands. This volcanic peninsula stretches some 550 miles from Cook Inlet to the tip at Isanotski Strait. It includes Alaska’s largest lakes – Lake Clark, Iliamna Lake and Becharof Lake – and some of the state’s most active volcanoes, with Mt Redoubt and Mt Iliamna topping more than 10,000ft in height. Wildlife abounds, communities do not.
The peninsula’s most popular attraction, Katmai National Park & Preserve, has turned King Salmon into the main access point. Two other preserves – McNeil River State Game Sanctuary & Refuge and Lake Clark National Park & Preserve – also attract travelers, while the Alaska Marine Highway stops at four small communities along the peninsula on its way to the Aleutians.
King Salmon
%907 / Pop 316
King Salmon is the kind of place where you arrive just after breakfast and are on first-name terms with half the town by dinnertime. Almost all the people who fly in are bound for nearby Katmai National Park – the ‘town’ acts as both staging post and official nexus (the park HQ and visitor center are both near the airport). The oversized airport runway is testament to the erstwhile presence of the US Air Force who were stationed here until the 1990s. These days, you’re more likely to bump into hunters and fishers than pilots.
Tourists bound for Katmai’s Brooks Camp on floatplanes rarely linger here more than a few hours. However, if you get stuck overnight, King Salmon is a friendly enough place with a few restaurants and places to stay, as well as a river lined with floatplanes and boat docks.
4Sleeping
There’s a 10% room tax.
Antlers InnINN$$
(%907-246-8525, 888-735-8525; www.antlersinnak.com; 471 Alaska Peninsula Hwy; r/ste $195/270; W)
Antlers beckon you into the unfussy laid-back confines of the Antlers Inn, a friendly, family-run place with shared bathrooms. Suites have kitchenettes and private baths, but – in typical ‘Bush’ style – are overpriced. The airport and what passes for downtown are within salmon-hooking distance.
5Eating
Eddie’s Fireplace InnAMERICAN$$
(%907-246-3435; 1 Main St; $14-32; h8am-8pm; W)
Pure outback Alaska with a grizzly yarn-spinning clientele, friendly wait staff and a straightforward no-nonsense menu that never strays too far from burgers and fried fish. Dig in like a local and you’ll soon forgive them the crumby plastic tablecloths and all-pervading essence of cigarette smoke.
8Information
King Salmon Visitor Center (%907-246-4250; King Salmon Airport Building 1; h8am-5pm) Adjacent to the airport with topographical models, books, gifts and informed staff.
8Getting There & Away
Alaska Airlines and PenAir fly up to eight times daily between Anchorage and King Salmon during summer (around $500 round-trip). Throughout the rest of the year, the flight frequency drops to twice a day for about the same price.
Katmai National Park & Preserve
‘Expensive, but worth it’ are perhaps the four most common words used to describe marvelous Katmai.
A national monument since 1918 and a National Park since 1980, Katmai National Park & Preserve (%907-246-3305; www.nps.gov/katm; hopen year-round) F is famous for its salmon-trapping brown bears, epic sport-fishing potential and unusual volcanic landscapes. Unconnected to the main Alaskan road network and covering an area the size of Wales, a visit here, for most people, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience involving meticulous preplanning and a big wad of cash.
Nearly all park visitors fly in via floatplane to the main tourist area of Brooks Camp, 35 miles east of King Salmon. Here they will stand spine-tinglingly close to formidable 1000lb brown bears pawing giant salmon out of the river (some bears even catch the fish clean in their chops). It’s the most heavily visited section of the park, equipped with a rustic lodge plus a couple of short trails.
History
The ecological diversity and abundance of Katmai National Park & Preserve has been an attraction for humans for many millennia. At its peak, the region contained some of the largest prehistoric populations in southern Alaska. Archaeological evidence dates the existence of humans in the Brooks River area to 5000 years ago. Scouring the ancient shores of Brooks and Naknek Lakes (which were at one time a single, large lake), archaeologists have found the remains of campsites, structures and tools. Today there are 20 archaeological sites in the Brooks River area.
In June 1912 the Novarupta volcano erupted violently and, with the preceding earthquakes, rocked the area now known as Katmai National Park & Preserve. The wilderness was turned into a dynamic landscape of smoking valleys, ash-covered mountains and small holes and cracks fuming with steam and gas. It was the largest volcanic eruption in the 20th century.
If the eruption had happened in New York City, people living in Chicago would have heard the explosion; the force of the eruption was 30 times greater than the 1980 eruption of Mt St Helens in the state of Washington. For two days, people in Kodiak could not see a lantern held at arm’s length, and the ash, which reached half the world, lowered the average temperature in the northern hemisphere for six months after the eruption. But the most amazing aspect of this eruption is that no one was killed. Katmai is that remote.
In 1916 the National Geographic Society sent botanist Robert Griggs to explore the locality. Standing at Katmai Pass, the explorer saw for the first time the valley floor with its thousands of steam vents. He named it the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, and the name stuck.
1Sights
Brooks FallsVIEWPOINT
Every year, hundreds of brown bears emerge from hibernation and make their way to Brooks Falls, a small but important waterfall in Katmai National Park. Around the same time, salmon begin their journey up Brooks River to spawn in Brooks Lake upstream. At this crossroads, salmon can be seen leaping into waiting bears’ jaws. Brown bear concentrations are at their highest in July, when dozens can often be spotted at or around the falls.
Valley of Ten Thousand SmokesNATURAL FEATURE
A scar in the earth left behind by the massive 1912 Novarupta volcanic eruption, the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes is a stark landscape of deep gorges, volcanic ash and lava flows. In 1916 Robert Griggs led an expedition into the region to examine the eruption’s aftermath. He found a valley of thousands of fumaroles (steam and gas vents) emitting clouds of vapor into the sky, hence the valley’s name.
The post-apocalyptic spectacle served as Katmai’s original raison d’être and led to the area being declared a national monument in 1918.
Visitors can access the valley by reserving a tour at Brooks Lodge or through Katmailand (from $88).
2Activities
Bear Viewing
Katmai supports a healthy population of 2200 brown bears. Many of the bears arrive with instinctual punctuality at Brooks Falls on July 1 for the annual salmon spawning, which lasts until the end of the month. The bears return in September for a second showing to feed on the dead salmon carcasses.
Brooks Camp has three established bear-watching areas. From the lodge, a dirt road leads to a floating bridge over the river and the first observation deck at the lower part of the river. From here you can see the bears feeding in the mouth of the river or swimming in the bay.
Continue on the road to the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, and in half a mile a marked trail winds to Brooks Falls. Two more viewing platforms lie along this half-mile trail. The first sits above some shallows that occasionally draw sows trying to keep their cubs away from aggressive males at the falls.
The last deck at the falls is the prime viewing area, where you can photograph the salmon making spectacular leaps or a big brownie at the top of the cascade waiting with open jaws to catch a fish. At the peak of the salmon run, there might be eight to 12 bears here, two or three of them atop the falls themselves. The observation deck holds 40 people, and in early to mid-July it will be crammed with photographers, forcing rangers to rotate people on and off.
Brooks Camps’ bear season is relatively short, but more adventurous visitors can charter floatplanes and guides to take them out to other bear-viewing areas on the coast between June and October.
Despite Katmai’s dense bear population (two bears per sq mile in places) only two serious human-bear incidents have been recorded in 100 years – a testament to fine park management.
Hiking & Backpacking
Hiking and backpacking are the best ways to see the park’s unusual backcountry. Like Denali National Park in Alaska’s Interior, Katmai has few formal trails; backpackers follow river bars, lakeshores, gravel ridges and other natural routes. Many hiking trips begin with a ride on the park bus along the dirt road to Three Forks Overlook, in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes. The bus will also drop off and pick up hikers and backpackers along the road – or you can walk its full 23-mile length.
The only developed trail from Brooks Camp is a half-day trek to the top of Dumpling Mountain (2440ft). The trail leaves the ranger station and heads north past the campground, climbing 1.5 miles to a scenic overlook. It then continues another 2.5 miles to the mountain’s summit, where there are superb views of the surrounding lakes.
Paddling
The area has some excellent paddling, including the Savonoski Loop, a five- to seven-day adventure. Other popular trips include a 30-mile paddle from Brooks Camp to the Bay of Islands and a 10-mile paddle to Margot Creek, which has good fishing and lots of bears.
Kayaks are the overwhelming choice for most paddlers due to high winds blowing across big lakes, and possible rough water. Accomplished paddlers should have no problem, but the conditions can sometimes get dicey for novices.
Lifetime AdventuresKAYAKING
(%907-746-4644, 800-952-8624; www.lifetimeadventure.net; Single/double folding kayaks per day $55/65, folding bikes per day $30)
Lifetime Adventures rents out folding kayaks and folding mountain bikes. Equipment is picked up or delivered in Anchorage.
If you have the time, this outfit offers a seven-day camping adventure that includes hiking in the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes and kayaking near Margot River. The cost is $2300 per person and includes the flight from Anchorage, charters into the park, all equipment and guides.
Fishing
Fishing trips are popular and rainbow trout are plentiful in the park’s large lakes. In fact, most park facilities were first built to accommodate anglers. Fishing populations are carefully managed by Katmai National Park & Preserve and Alaska Department of Fish and Game. Sport fishing licenses are required for nonresidents aged 16 and older and most residents 16 to 59. Further regulations exist depending on where anglers cast their reels.
Because fishers and brown bears are often attracted to the same catch, anglers must be careful when fishing in Katmai and follow safe bear country practices such as maintaining bear awareness, cutting the line if a bear approaches and safe catch storage.
TTours
Independent Tours
The only road in Katmai is 23 miles long. It’s a scenic traverse of the park that leads from the lodge, past wildlife-inhabited meadows and river valleys, and ends at Three Forks Overlook, which has a sweeping view of the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes.
The peculiar landscape of this trippy valley is the result of a 1912 volcanic eruption. It covered the area in a rain of ash and opened up countless smoke vents which jetted hot steam skyward. These days, the notably less smoky valley plays second fiddle to Katmai’s bear viewing, but can still be visited on a daily bus ride from Brooks Camp.
Katmailand has a daily round-trip by bus to Three Forks Overlook, leaving at 9am, with three hours at the cabin or a ranger-led hike to the valley floor, and returning at 4:30pm.
Each bus carries a ranger who talks during the bus trip and leads a short hike from the cabin into the valley below. Views from the cabin include almost 12 miles of barren, moonlike valley where the lava once oozed down, with snowcapped peaks beyond. It’s an amazing sight.
The fare is a steep $88 per person (with a packed lunch $96). Sign up for the tour at the Katmailand office across from the lodge as soon as you arrive at Brooks Camp. The bus is filled most of the summer, and you often can’t get a seat without making a reservation a day or two in advance.
Package Tours
Because of the logistics of getting there and the need to plan and reserve so much in advance, many visitors arrive in Katmai as part of a one-call-does-it-all package tour. A shockingly large number are part of a one-day visit, spending large sums of money for what is basically an hour or two of bear watching.
KatmailandBEAR WATCHING
(%800-544-0551, 907-243-5448; www.katmailand.com)
The concessionaire of Brooks Lodge offers packages that are geared to either anglers or bear watchers. Its one-day tour to see the bears of Brooks Falls is $778 per person from Anchorage. A three-night angler’s package including all transportation, lodging and meals is $1834 per person based on double occupancy.
Hallo Bay Bear CampBEAR WATCHING
(%907-235-2237, 888-535-2237; www.hallobay.com; overnight tours from $1000)
This ecofriendly camp is on the outside coast of Katmai National Park & Preserve and is designed exclusively for bear watching. Accommodation is rustic but authentic, complete with safari tents, cots and freeze-dried food. Packages include guides and round-trip airfare from Homer.
4Sleeping
If you plan to stay at Brooks Camp, either at the lodge or in the campground, you must make a reservation. Otherwise, you’re limited to staying in King Salmon and visiting the park on day trips.
Grosvenor Lodge, Kulik Lodge and Brooks Lodge are all operated by concessionaire Katmailand. Two-night stays start at $1466 per person and include round-trip flights from Anchorage.
Independent options like Katmai Wilderness Lodge (www.katmai-wilderness.com) and Hallo Bay Bear Camp are alternatives.
Brooks Camp CampgroundCAMPGROUND$
(%907-246-3305, reservations 877-444-6777; www.recreation.gov; tent sites $12; hMay-Oct)
Each year, reservations for the campground are accepted from the first week in January. It might be easier to win the lottery than to get a reservation for July bear watching; often the sites are completely booked before the end of the first week. There’s a seven-night maximum stay in July.
The campground holds a maximum of 60 people and reservations are made by person. If you don’t provide the names of everyone in your party when you make your reservation, space will be held for just one person. The campground, for obvious reasons, is surrounded by an electrical fence.
Brooks LodgeLODGE$$$
(Katmailand; %800-544-0551, 907-243-5448; www.katmailand.com; d per person incl flight 1/2/3 nights $1096/1466/1834)
The lodge has 16 rustic but comfortable rooms spread over a main lodge and several individual cabins. Each room has two twin bunk beds and a private bath with a shower. Accommodation is booked as part of a package tour that includes transportation from Anchorage. Bears often stalk the grounds.
A store at Brooks Camp sells limited supplies of freeze-dried food, white gas (for camp stoves), fishing equipment, flies, and other essentials…such as beer. You can also sign up for all-you-can-eat meals at Brooks Lodge without renting a cabin (renters pay, too): for adults, breakfasts are $17, lunches $24 and dinners $40. Also in the lodge is a lounge with a huge stone fireplace, soft chairs and bar service in the evening (including cocktails). Campers can take hot showers ($7).
8Information
The visitor center is located in King Salmon.
8Getting There & Away
Most visitors to Katmai fly from Anchorage into King Salmon on Alaska Airlines for between $450 and $600 round-trip. Once you’re in King Salmon, a number of air-taxi companies offer the 20-minute floatplane flight out to Brooks Camp. Katmai Air (%800-544-0551, 907-243-5448; www.katmaiair.com), the Katmailand-affiliated company, charges $214 for a round-trip.
Companies like Regal Air and Rust’s Flying Service offer day trips straight from Anchorage, but the 2½ hour flight aboard a cramped floatplane, plus limited time with the bears, make this a less-ideal option.
Aleutian Islands
If Alaska is primarily characterized by both beauty and hostility, the fiery rim of volcanic islands stretching into the Pacific is the prime example of this dichotomy.
Where the Alaska Peninsula ends, the Aleutian Islands begin: a jagged 1100-mile arc that stretches across the north Pacific to within 500 miles of Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula. This is a barren, windswept and violent place, where over two dozen volcanoes are active or were active in the last 250 years.
Unalaska & Dutch Harbor
%907 / Pop 4448
Everywhere in Unalaska and Dutch Harbor, two things catch your eye: concrete pillboxes and crab pots. In a nutshell, that’s the story of these twin towns on Unalaska and Amaknak Islands: the pillboxes are a reminder of the wartime past, while the crab pots acknowledge the important role of commercial fishing in the towns’ future.
Located at the confluence of the Pacific Ocean and the Bering Sea, one of the world’s richest fisheries, Dutch Harbor is the only natural deepwater port in the Aleutians. More than 400 vessels call here each year from as many as 14 countries, and canneries and fish-processing plants are a key feature of the industrialized port.
For travelers, it’s a unique, edge-of-the-world experience. Hikes into the wildflower-laden backcountry trace the routes of ancient portages, and kayak trips around the island’s bays and inlets offer some of the best birding opportunities in Alaska.
Unalaska & Dutch Harbor
1Top Sights
1Sights
6Drinking & Nightlife
7Shopping
1Sights
oMuseum of the AleutiansMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-581-5150; www.aleutians.org; 314 Salmon Way; adult/child $7/3; h11am-4pm Tue-Wed & Fri-Sat, 1-8pm Thu)
This small but impressive museum is one of the best native cultural centers in Alaska. It relives the Aleutian story from prehistory through the Russian America period to WWII and the present. Exhibits are broken into sections on Russian colonization, the WWII evacuation of the Aleuts, the modern fishing industry and – most interesting – displays of the tools, boats and grass baskets that allowed these clever and creative people to live in such a harsh environment.
Bunker HillHISTORIC SITE
Part of the national historic area, this coastal battery was known to the military as Hill 400 or colloquially as Little South America (due to its shape). The hill was fortified with 155mm guns, ammunition magazines, water tanks, 22 Quonset huts and a concrete command post at the top. You can easily hike to the peak of Bunker Hill along a gravel road picked up just after crossing the bridge to Amaknak Island.
Cathedral of the Holy AscensionCHURCH
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Broadway)
Unalaska is dominated by the Cathedral of the Holy Ascension, the oldest Russian-built church still standing in Alaska. It was built in 1825 and then enlarged in 1894, when its floor plan was changed to a pekov (the shape of a crucifix). Overlooking the bay, the church and its onion domes are Unalaska’s most iconic symbol. The church contains almost 700 pieces of art, ranging from Russian Orthodox icons and books to the largest collection of 19th-century paintings in Alaska.
The best time to view the interior of the church is after services, 6:30pm on Saturday and 11am Sunday morning.
Outside the church is a small graveyard, where the largest grave marker belongs to Baron Nicholas Zass. Born in 1825 in Archangel, Russia, he eventually became bishop of the Aleutian Islands, and all of Alaska, before his death in 1882. Next door to the graveyard is the Bishop’s House
Aleutian WWII Visitor CenterMUSEUM
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-581-9944; 2716 Airport Beach Rd; adult/child $4/free; h1-6pm Wed-Sat)
To learn about the ‘Forgotten War,’ begin at the Aleutian WWII Visitor Center, near the airport, in the original air-control tower built in 1942. Downstairs, exhibits relive the Aleutian campaign, including the bombing of Dutch Harbor by the Japanese. Upstairs is the recreated air-control tower, and in a theater you can watch documentaries about the war.
Bishop’s HouseHISTORIC SITE
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; W Broadway Ave)
Commissioned by Bishop Nester, this house was first built in San Francisco in 1882, dismantled and shipped to Unalaska to be reassembled. During his return to Unalaska, the bishop fell off the deck of the ship and died, and he never had the chance to live in the house. His body was recovered and he was buried in the graveyard outside the Cathedral of the Holy Ascension.
Although it’s not open for regular visitation, the house’s aging red roof and wooden siding stands out amid the more modern buildings nearby.
Expedition ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; off Gilman Rd)
Bald eagles are as common as crows in and around Unalaska and Dutch Harbor. There are so many birds that locals view them as scavengers, which they are by nature, rather than as the majestic symbol of the USA. One of the best places to photograph them up close and in a somewhat natural setting is Expedition Park, at the end of Bobby Storrs Boat Harbor.
Memorial ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Summer Bay Rd)
Next to a disheveled hillside graveyard overlooking the bay is Memorial Park. The park has several monuments dedicated to the Coast Guard and Navy personnel who died in WWII. Alongside pillboxes and bunkers, there are granite monuments and a peace memorial. US and Alaskan flags fly gallantly in the (usually) strong winds.
At the far end of the park, the USS Northwest memorial is named for a 19th-century freight ship turned floating WWII bunkhouse that was destroyed by Japanese bombs in 1942. In 1992, for the 50th anniversary of the event, the propeller was salvaged by divers and is now part of the memorial.
To get to the park, follow Bayview Ave to the southeast end of town.
Sitka Spruce ParkPARK
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Biorka Dr)
This national historical landmark within Dutch Harbor is where the Russians first planted Sitka spruce on the island in 1805. It’s the oldest recorded afforestation project in North America. Three of the gnarly spruce trees are said to be the originals. The park also features interpretive displays and a short trail to an edge-of-the-cliff overlook.
WORTH A TRIP
THE LOWER PENINSULA & THE ALEUTIAN ISLANDS
Most visitors to the little fishing villages on the western peninsula arrive on the Alaska Marine Highway’s MV Tustumena, which sails from Kodiak to Unalaska and Dutch Harbor. The ferry usually stops for an hour or two: long enough to get out and walk from one end of the village to the other, and for most people, that’s ample. If you decide to stay over at any village, you’ll be able to find food and shelter, and then return to Anchorage through PenAir. A one-way flight from the peninsula communities to Anchorage ranges from $450 to $525.
Chignik
The first notable settlement west of Kodiak is isolated Chignik, which harbors a couple of fish canneries and a seasonal population that fluctuates between 100 and 200. The MV Tustumena stops at Chignik on most, but not all, of its runs. Check ahead.
Sand Point
On the northwest coast of Popof Island, Sand Point is the largest commercial fishing base in the Aleutians, with a population of 943. It was founded in 1898 by a San Francisco fishing company as a trading post and cod-fishing station, but also bears traces of Aleut, Scandinavian and Russian heritage. The town’s St Nicholas Chapel, a Russian Orthodox church, was built in 1936 and is now on the National Register of Historical Places. The Tustumena ferry only stops for an hour in Sand Point, meaning you’ll have to be a very fast runner to make it the half-mile to the Sand Point Tavern (%907-383-5050; 189 Main St, Sand Point; h3pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) for a beer and a game of pool.
King Cove
At the Alaska Peninsula’s western end, near the entrance to Cold Bay, is King Cove, founded in 1911, when a salmon cannery was built. Today, with a population of 923, it is a commercial fishing base and home to Peter Pan Seafoods, whose salmon cannery is the largest operation under one roof in Alaska.
Cold Bay
Cold, treeless and very sparsely populated (population 59), Cold Bay is one of the more interesting stops on the Tustumena ferry route, primarily because the boat pulls in for a three-hour stopover, long enough to step ashore and get a taste of this desolate land and its off-the-grid community. If you put your name down for the wildlife-tour lottery on the Tustumena (and get lucky) you’ll enjoy a free guided tour of nearby Izembek National Wildlife Refuge (%907-532-2445; www.fws.gov/refuge/Izembek) F and possibly see a brown bear.
Cold Bay owes its existence to WWII. In 1942 a massive airstrip was built to deter a possible Japanese invasion. The airstrip remains – the fifth largest in the state – though these days it handles flights to Anchorage plus the odd emergency jumbo landing. Huge brown bears have been known to patrol the airport perimeter fence. For accommodation, look to the Bearfoot Inn (%907-532-2327; www.bearfootinnalaska.com; 123 Bear Country Rd, Cold Bay; r $95-112), which doubles as a bar and grocery. It’s conceivable to stay for two days in Cold Bay if you’re arriving on the Tustumena, hopping back aboard as the boat makes its return trip, although this means you’ll miss out on Dutch Harbor.
False Pass
This small but picturesque fishing village (population 42) on the tip of Unimak Island looks across a narrow passage at the Alaska Peninsula. False Pass sits in the shadow of the snowy Roundtop Volcano. There’s a basic store at the end of the jetty and (usually) some locals selling jewelry. The Tustumena ferry docks for two hours.
Akutan
Founded as a fur-trading post in 1878, Akutan Island (population around 1000) is now inhabited by a stalwart group of fish-processing workers and some Aleuts. Its Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Chapel dates from 1918. The Tustumena ferry reaches here at 5:30am to pick up a few fishers. Most other passengers stay in their bunks/sleeping bags.
2Activities
Hiking
Because of the treeless environment, hiking is easy here. And don’t worry about bears – there aren’t any.
Before hiking anywhere, even Mt Ballyhoo or Bunker Hill, you must obtain a permit (per person $6 daily, $15 weekly) from the Ounalashka Corporation. Also call Unalaska’s Parks, Culture & Recreation Department, which organizes hikes in summer for locals and visitors.
oUgadaga Bay TrailHIKING
(Overland Dr)
On the southeast side of Unalaska, this pleasant hike is 2.2 miles one-way along an ancient portage route. More recently, the US military ran communications lines from Unalaska all the way to Seattle, and you’ll see remnants of them in eroded spots. Seal hunters were using the portage as late as the 1960s.
Pyramid TrailHIKING
(Pyramid Creek Rd)
Tracing an old military road, this 2.7-mile trail leads through the Pyramid Valley, a green and supremely peaceful part of the island. Although it’s not far outside of town, the chirps of ground squirrels and the occasional squawk of a bald eagle are all you’ll hear out here.
The trail hugs the southern flank of Mt Pyramid, and after about 1.25 miles you’ll come across the remains of an old military outpost. You can turn back here or continue down the other side of the mountain to the end of the trail.
Uniktali BayHIKING
(Captain’s Bay Rd)
Ending in an undeveloped bay where glass floats from Japanese fishing nets can be found, an enjoyable day can be spent hiking to Uniktali Bay, a round-trip of 8 to 10 miles.
From Captain’s Bay Rd, turn south on a gravel road just before Westward Cannery. Follow the road for a mile to its end; a foot trail continues along a stream. In 2 miles, the trail runs out, and you’ll reach a lake in a pass between two 2000ft peaks. Continue southeast to pick up a second stream, which empties into Uniktali Bay.
Paddling
The many protected harbors, bays and islets of Unalaska Island make for ideal sea-kayaking conditions. The scenery is stunning and the wildlife plentiful. It is possible to encounter Steller’s sea lions, sea otters and harbor porpoises.
TTours
Extra Mile ToursTOURS
(%907-581-1859; www.unalaskadutchharbortour.com; 2/4hr tour $50/90)
Operator Bobbie Lekanoff is very knowledgeable in indigenous and WWII history, and famililar with every single flower and bird.
Aleutian Birding & Natural HistoryOUTDOORS
(%907-581-1359; 2/4/6 $50/90/130)
Specializing in birding, botany and natural history, longtime resident Suzi Golodoff guides tours exploring the Aleutian landscape. Trips can yield wild berry patches, wildflower meadows blooming with lupines and cinquefoils, or the stories of historical sights that dot the island.
4Sleeping
You aren’t spoiled for choice here: there are two hotels in Unalaska – the Grand Aleutian and Harbor View Inn.
Campers must obtain a permit from the Ounalashka Corporation. This native corporation owns most of the land out of town and allows camping.
There’s an 8% hotel tax.
Harbor View InnMOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-581-3844; 88 Gilman Way; d $142; W)
Affiliated with the Grand Aleutian Hotel, this basic 30-room inn is sandwiched between a shipyard and a fish-processing plant. The smell of cigarette smoke competes with the pong of fish and the bar downstairs is noisy. Grin and bear it – it’s the only budget option in town.
Grand Aleutian HotelHOTEL$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-581-3844, 866-581-3844; www.grandaleutian.com; 498 Salmon Way; r/ste $189/237; W)
Updated rooms with memory-foam mattresses appeal to TV crews and travelers on a loose budget. The grand views from every window help make up for the slightly utilitarian – although clean – digs. Aside from the rougher Harbor View Inn it’s your only option. Book ahead!
5Eating
There are 10 places to eat in Unalaska and Dutch Harbor, two in supermarkets, five affiliated to the Grand Aleutian Hotel and one at the airport. The only two truly indie places are Amelia’s and Dutch Harbor Restaurant.
Dutch Harbor RestaurantASIAN$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-581-5966; 3rd St & Broadway; mains $10-14; h10:30am-9:30pm Mon-Sat)
An inviting, well-lit space serving great Asian staples such as chow mein, fried rice and pho. The pad thai comes in a pile the size of your face and is highly recommended. In spite of its name, this is on the Unalaska side of the island.
SafewaySUPERMARKET$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 2029 Airport Beach Rd; sandwiches $7-11; h7am-11pm)
As is often the case in the remoter parts of Alaska, the local Safeway is a passable place to grab a coffee and sandwich.
oAmelia’sMEXICAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-581-2800; Airport Beach Rd; breakfast $11-14, dinner $15-30; h6am-10pm)
This Dutch Harbor restaurant does a little of everything, from breakfast and burgers to seafood and pasta, but the majority of its menu is Mexican, including almost a dozen types of burritos. Amazingly, none of them is stuffed with crab or halibut.
Airport RestaurantASIAN$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; Airport Beach Rd; breakfast & lunch $11-15, dinner $16-29; h9am-11pm)
A godsend of a restaurant located at an airport notorious for bad weather. Better than the usual franchise food, it does American staples along with some excellent Vietnamese dishes: try the Airport Surf – a banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich) in disguise. The bar is open late.
Harbor View Bar & GrillPIZZA$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-581-7246; 88 Gilman Way; pizza $18-31; h11:30am-1am Mon-Thu, 11:30am-2am Fri & Sat, noon-10pm Sun)
At the eponymous inn, this place has pizza, salads, pasta and burgers. The rocking bar is the best place to meet a proud extra from the early seasons of Deadliest Catch (the reason for its local nickname, the ‘Unisleaze’).
Harbor SushiJAPANESE$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 88 Gilman Way; rolls $12-20; h5-10:30pm Mon-Sat, to 9:30pm Sun)
Directly attached to Harbor View Bar & Grill, this place serves the best sushi in a town that knows its seafood.
oChart RoomAMERICAN$$$
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-581-7120; 498 Salmon Way; mains $30-50; h6-11pm Mon-Sat; 10am-2pm, 6-9:30pm Sun)
The swankiest restaurant in Dutch Harbor and, by definition, the Aleutian Islands, the Chart Room has more meat than seafood on its menu. It’s best known for its weekend buffet brunch spread ($25) which includes king-crab legs, made-to-order omelets and chocolate-dipped strawberries. Otherwise try the local halibut, salmon, shrimp and king crab.
THE TRUSTY TUSTY
The easiest way to see ‘Bush Alaska’ without flying is to hop onto the Alaska Marine Highway ferry on its route to the eastern end of the Aleutian Islands between May and September. The MV Tustumena, a 290ft vessel that holds 220 passengers, is one of only two ferries in the Alaska Marine Highway fleet rated as an oceangoing ship, hence its nickname, the ‘Trusty Tusty.’ It is also one of the oldest vessels in the fleet, serving with valor since 1964. An alternative nickname, the ‘Rusty Tusty,’ is sometimes whispered among its passengers.
Riding the Tusty is truly one of the best bargains in public transportation. The scenery and wildlife are spectacular. You’ll pass the perfect cones of several volcanoes, the treeless but lush green mountains of the Aleutians, and distinctive rock formations and cliffs. Whales, sea lions, otters and porpoises are commonly sighted, and birdlife abounds (more than 250 species).
Viewing wildlife and scenery depends, however, on the weather. It can be an extremely rough trip at times, deserving its title ‘the cruise through the cradle of the storms.’ The smoothest runs are from June to August, while in the fall 40ft waves and 80-knot winds are the norm. That’s the reason for barf bags near the cabins and travel-sickness medication in the vending machines. The tiny bar – three stools, two tables – is called the Pitch and Roll Cocktail Lounge.
Cabins are available (around $700 each way) and are a worthwhile expense, but book at least three months in advance. Otherwise you can pitch a tent on deck (bring duct tape) or pitch your sleeping bag in the solarium. The Tusty has power outlets but no wi-fi or decent cell-phone coverage. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner at set times and the food isn’t bad. There is also a coffee machine and a vending machine. To save money stock up with your own snacks.
The Tustumena’s stops can vary slightly, but the most common route is (east to west): Homer, Kodiak, Chignik, Sand Point, King Cove, Cold Bay, False Pass, Akutan and Dutch Harbor.
Over half a century old, the Tusty’s future is in doubt. During the 2016 and 2017 summer seasons, sailings were canceled while the ship remained in dock for repairs. Communities in the Aleutians were left stranded and travelers sought alternatives. A replacement ship has been approved, but funding remains mired in the state legislature.
6Drinking & Nightlife
Cape Cheerful LoungeBAR
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 498 Salmon Way; h3pm-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun)
The Grand Aleutian Hotel bar is more refined than the Harbor View and in June, July and August the drinkers move to an outdoor patio for ‘BBQ on the Deck’ from 6-9pm. The good pub-grub menu includes sliders and barbecued meals ($12 to $18).
7Shopping
Alaska Ship SupplyGIFTS & SOUVENIRS
(MAP GOOGLE MAP; %907-581-1284; www.alaskashipsupply.com; 487 Salmon Way; h7am-10pm)
This warehouse-like store is like a remote outpost of Costco with a few unique extras. The Deadliest Catch hoodies make a good only-in–Dutch Harbor souvenir. If you’re not after fishing-trawler fashion, stock up on groceries or drop by the espresso cafe.
8Information
MEDICAL SERVICES
Iliuliuk Medical Center (%907-581-1202; 34 LaVelle Ct; hwalk-in 8:30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Just off Airport Beach Rd near Unalaska City Hall; has walk-in and 24-hour emergency service.
MONEY
Key Bank of Alaska (%907-581-1300; 487 Salmon Way) Across from the Grand Aleutian Hotel in Dutch Harbor; has a 24-hour ATM.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Ounalashka Corporation (%907-581-1276; www.ounalashka.com; 400 Salmon Way; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Issues camping and hiking permits for daily/weekly $6/15 per person.
Parks, Culture & Recreation Department (%907-581-1297; http://ci.unalaska.ak.us/parksrec/page/parks-trails; 37 S 5th St; h6am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10pm Sat, noon-7pm Sun)
Unalaska/Port of Dutch Harbor Convention & Visitors Bureau (%877-581-2612, 907-581-2612; www.unalaska.info; cnr 5th & Broadway, Unalaska; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) Located in the Burma Street Russian Church, originally a military chapel built during WWII. Also opens when the ferry is in.
8Getting There & Away
The MV Tustumena from Homer ($394) and Kodiak ($337) calls at Dutch Harbor twice monthly between May and September. The ferry terminal (Ballyhoo Rd) is approximately 3 miles north of Unalaska off Ballyhoo Rd. It stops in town for eight hours before returning east.
The only other way to get out of Unalaska and Dutch Harbor is by flying. The town is serviced by PenAir but you book the ticket through Alaska Airlines. There are three to four flights daily and a one-way ticket is $500 to $600. Beware: Dutch Harbor’s notoriously fickle weather can delay flights hence PenAir’s local nickname ‘When Air?’ The airport (%907-581-1254; Airport Beach Rd) is on Amaknak Island.
It’s also common for checked luggage to be bumped from flights due to limited weight capacity. If this happens to you, your bags will likely be on the next flight.
Cab fare to downtown Unalaska costs $11 to $12 from the airport, or $14 to $16 from the ferry. There are a zillion cabs running all over Unalaska and Dutch Harbor, including Aleutian Taxi (%907-581-1866). There’s a long list in the airport terminal.
8Getting Around
To get out and see the island by car look no further than BC Vehicle Rental (%866-336-6659; Airport Beach Rd), which is located inside the airport and has vehicles from around $65 a day. Just outside the main terminal, North Port Car Rental (%907-581-3880; Airport Beach Rd) has rentals starting at $79 a day.
A long list of taxis serves the community; check the visitors bureau website for an up-to-date record of companies and phone numbers.