Levanto • Sestri Levante • Santa Margherita Ligure • Portofino • Porto Venere • La Spezia
Orientation to Santa Margherita Ligure
Sights in Santa Margherita Ligure
Sleeping in Santa Margherita Ligure
Eating in Santa Margherita Ligure
Santa Margherita Ligure Connections
The Cinque Terre is tops, but there’s much more to the Italian Riviera. To the north of the Cinque Terre is a trio of beach towns: Levanto, the northern gateway to the Cinque Terre; Sestri Levante, stunningly situated on a narrow peninsula flanked by two beaches; and Santa Margherita Ligure, a thriving city with an active waterfront and easy connections to yacht-happy Portofino. At the south end of the Cinque Terre is the pretty resort of Porto Venere and the region’s gritty transit hub, La Spezia.
The best of these towns—the high-end yin to the Cinque Terre’s ramshackle yang—can be user-friendly home bases for day trips along the Riviera coast. But they are also worth visiting in their own right. After exploring the villages and trails of the Cinque Terre, these Riviera towns feel like a return to civilization—for reasons both good and bad (modern amenities, urban scene, and traffic).
Riviera hotels aren’t necessarily cheaper than the Cinque Terre, but they are more likely to have space. High season here is roughly May through September, peaking in July and August. Especially in peak season, some hoteliers want you to pay for half-pension (lunch or dinner). Prices may drop a bit in April and October, and are soft the rest of the year. Some hotels close in winter.
Home Bases: Levanto, Sestri Levante, and Santa Margherita Ligure are practical home bases for drivers wanting to park at their hotel and side-trip to the Cinque Terre by train, or for those who want modern hotels with all the predictable resort amenities. (They’re also worth a look if you find the Cinque Terre towns booked up.)
Levanto—just minutes north of Monterosso by train—is the handiest. Sestri Levante is a bit farther away with a little less train service. Santa Margherita Ligure is the most distant and requires a transfer on most connections to the Cinque Terre, but the town compensates by being the most appealing—and it gives you easy access to posh Portofino. La Spezia is too plain for a home base (though it can work if needed), and Porto Venere makes a better day trip than a home base (since it’s out of the way and not near anything else).
If you home-base near the Cinque Terre, keep in mind that you’ll be competing with other day-trippers for space on prime midday trains to and from the Cinque Terre. Turn this problem into an advantage: On especially busy days, enjoy your home-base town during the day, then head into the Cinque Terre villages in the late afternoon for untrampled charm, a romantic dinner, and a late train back.
When most people imagine the “Italian Riviera,” they’re thinking of the shimmering resort towns north of the Cinque Terre. Big, stately, Old World hotels loom over crowded pebble beaches with rentable umbrellas. Fastidiously landscaped parks and promenades are jammed with more Italian visitors than American tourists. These towns are perfect for day-tripping—or even an overnight.
Graced with a long, sandy beach, Levanto (LEH-vahn-toh) is packed in summer and popular with families and surfers. The rest of the year, it’s just a small, sleepy town with kids playing in the square and locals whizzing around on bicycles. Although not as charming as the Cinque Terre, it enjoys fewer crowds, more varied hotel and dining options, and quick connections to the Cinque Terre (4 minutes to Monterosso by train, continuing to the rest of the Cinque Terre villages on the same line).
This beach town isn’t the “real” Cinque Terre, but it can be a friendly home base for budget travelers, beach bums, or families with kids who like to bike or play on the beach. (It has a high number of family rooms and large, affordable apartments with kitchenettes.) From Levanto, you can hop a train or boat to the Cinque Terre towns and beyond; take the no-wimps-allowed hike to Monterosso (3 hours); or bike or stroll on a delightful, level path to the nearby, uncrowded beach village of Bonassola, and farther on, smaller Framura.
Levanto (pop. 5,600) is dominated by an uninspiring new town, a regular grid street plan of five-story apartment buildings that stretches from the train station down to the broad, curving beach. The sleepy, twisty old town—bisected by a modern street—is tucked up against the adjacent hill.
A Cinque Terre National Park info center is at the train station. The helpful TI is on Piazza Cavour (daily 9:00-13:00 & 15:00-18:00 except closed Sun afternoon, shorter hours off-season, tel. 0187-808-125, www.comune.levanto.sp.it).
By Train: From the train station (no baggage storage), head through the parking lot and down the stairs, turn right, and cross the bridge onto Corso Roma—the main drag. The beach is straight ahead, and most of my recommended hotels, restaurants, and the TI are in the grid of streets to your left. You can walk from the station to most of my recommended places in about 10 minutes.
By Car: If your hotel doesn’t offer parking—or if you’re not sleeping here—you have three good alternatives. The lots surrounding the train station are affordable and handy for hopping a train to the Cinque Terre towns (€1.20/hour, €10.80/day). For longer stays, park in the free lot a few blocks north of the station (across the river from the hospital on the way into town—first left after the hospital, cross the bridge and immediately turn left). If you’re heading for the beach, the parking lot there is handy but expensive (€1.80/hour, €18/day).
Markets: Levanto’s modern covered mercato, which sells produce and fish, is on Via del Mercato, between the train station and the beach (Mon-Sat 8:00-13:00, closed Sun). On Wednesday morning, an open-air market with clothes, shoes, and housewares fills the street in front of the mercato.
Laundry: A self-service launderette stuffed with snack-and-drink vending machines is at Piazza Staglieno 38, facing an inviting park (open 24 hours daily, mobile 338-701-6341). Another self-service place, Speedy Wash, is at Via Garibaldi 32 (daily 8:00-22:00, mobile 338-701-6341).
Bike Rental: Relatively flat Levanto, with light traffic, is a great bike town—and the ride to nearby Bonassola and Framura is easy and delightful. Try Cicli Raso North Shore (€10-20/day depending on type of bike, daily 9:30-12:30 & 15:30-19:00, closed Sun Nov-April, Via Garibaldi 63, tel. 0187-802-511, www.cicliraso.com), or the Sensafreni Bike Shop, which is convenient to the beach boardwalk (€3/hour, €5/half-day, €15/day, Mon-Sat 9:30-12:30 & 16:00-19:30, closed Sun, Piazza del Popolo 1, tel. 0187-807-128).
Electric Bike Tours: Ebikein offers a variety of guided tours on electric bikes—giving you a helpful boost on the hills. Options range from a 2.5-hour loop around town (€39) to an ambitious 4-hour pedal up to some of the sanctuaries above the Cinque Terre towns (€55, also pricey rentals, www.ebikein.com, mobile 334-190-0496).
Sports Rentals: Right on the beach, Rosa dei Venti rents kayaks, canoes, surfboards, and windsurfing equipment (Marco’s mobile 329-451-1981 or 335-608-9277, www.levantorosadeiventi.it).
Levanto’s beach hides below a parking lot and promenade that’s elevated above the sand—look for underpasses or stairs along its length. There are pretty boardwalks up on the elevated promenade and down along the beachfront. As you face the harbor, the boat dock is to your far left, and the diving center is to your far right (rental boats available at either place in summer). You can also rent a kayak or canoe just below the east end of the Piazza Mazzini parking lot.
In summer, three parts of the beach are free: both sides of the boat dock, and near Piazza Mazzini. The rest of the beach is broken up into private sections that charge admission. Pay beaches come with comfy lounge chairs, bar service, showers, and someone keeping an eye on your things while you swim. Shop around to find the best price (€10-20/chair, less in the afternoon). You can always stroll along the beach, even through the private sections—just don’t sit down. Off-season, roughly October through May, the entire beach is free, and you can lay your towel anywhere you like. Ask your hotel for towels; most have beach towels to loan or rent.
The city’s seaside pool is privately run and is for serious lap swimmers only. Check with your hotel; they may have entry passes.
The old town clusters around Piazza del Popolo. Until a few decades ago, the town’s open-air market was held at the 13th-century loggia (covered set of archways) in the square. Explore the back streets.
This strenuous, three-hour hike is described in more detail on here. To begin in Levanto, start at the old town’s Piazza del Popolo, and head uphill to the striped church, Chiesa di Sant’Andrea. From the church courtyard, follow the sign to the castello (a private residence), go under the stone arch, and continue uphill. From here, you’ll take trail SVA (following signs toward Punta Mesco, the rugged tip of the peninsula), then drop steeply down into Monterosso. (If you have weak knees, consider starting in Monterosso instead.)
Tucked just off the main train line on a cove north of Levanto, the small beach resort of Bonassola (boh-nah-SOH-lah, pop. 950) is a peaceful little eddy. As far as Riviera beach resorts go, this is a jewel. With a low-key vibe, a tidy grid street plan that feels almost French, and a picturesque dark-sand beach hemmed in by jagged bluffs, Bonassola is a fine alternative to the region’s other beaches. And the next best thing to a beach day in Bonassola is getting there: A level, easy, rails-to-trails path cuts through the mountain from Levanto—enjoyable by foot, but even better by bike.
Getting There: Local trains run between Levanto and Bonassola (hourly, 3 minutes—requires a change from the Cinque Terre line). But I’d rather take the promenade. At the northern end of Levanto’s beachfront road/parking lot, you’ll find a level, roughly 1.5-mile path neatly divided into bike and pedestrian lanes. Most of the route is through well-lit former train tunnels, with brief breaks overlooking the sea (and hikes down to secluded beaches). The walk takes about 30 minutes, with long stretches through cool tunnels; by bike, it’s less than 10 minutes.
Visiting Bonassola: The town itself—with manicured promenades and piazzas—is worth exploring. $$ Caffè delle Rose, facing the town’s elevated road (at Via Fratelli Rezzano 22), has good gelato, food, and drinks. Several foccacerie and other eateries cluster at the far end of town.
The beach is separated from the town center by the elevated road (shared by bicyclists, walkers, and a parking lot). The inviting beach has mostly private sections, with a few free public areas.
For a scenic walk/hike, head to the far (north) end of the beach, where a promenade snakes along the base of the cliff (with rocky perches for sunbathing and swimming). For higher views, find the stairs near the flagpole, and follow the steps up on the right side of the yellow church. Popping out at the top, turn left along the scenic, private road as it curls around the top of the bay, with great views back on the town and beach; the path ends at the blocky little Madonnina della Punta chapel.
Bonassola to Framura (best for bicyclists): From Bonassola, the promenade continues another 1.5 miles to the town of Framura—a settlement made up of five hamlets scattered across a hillside (pop. 750). Because this part of the route is almost entirely through tunnels, it’s boring for walkers—but quick for bikers. You’ll pop out overlooking Framura’s rocky little harbor, behind its train station (no direct access—don’t count on taking your bike back on the train).
From the station, hike down to the harbor and follow the scenic trail to the north along the cliff; it’s an easy promenade that ends at a small gravel beach. For a more strenuous workout, walk along the road above the station up to the cluster of villages. Or you can simply enjoy the views, then turn around and pedal back to Bonassola and Levanto.
$$$ Villa Margherita is across the river and a bit uphill (about a 10-minute walk from the town center or train station), but the shaded view gardens, 11 characteristic colorfully tiled rooms, and tranquility are worth the walk (family rooms, apartment, air-con, elevator one flight up from street level, free parking, Via Trento e Trieste 31, tel. 0187-807-212, mobile 328-842-6934, www.villamargherita.net, info@villamargherita.net, Paola).
$$$ Oasi Hotel, well-run by Silvia, has 14 rooms in a cozy small hotel behind the market hall. Some rooms have balconies, others have direct access to the garden, and a few have neither but are larger—request your choice when you reserve (RS%, air-con, elevator, parking extra, Via Ferraro, tel. 0187-807-356, www.oasihotel.eu, info@oasihotel.eu, Saverio).
$$$ Hotel Carla sits in a humdrum residential zone, about 10 minutes from the beach and the station. Its 30 rooms come with surprising contemporary style—most have balconies, and all are decorated in soothing, neutral colors (RS%, family rooms, air-con, elevator, free loaner bikes, Via Martiri della Libertà 28, tel. 0187-808-275, www.carlahotel.com, info@carlahotel.com).
$$ A Durmì is a happy little guesthouse owned by lovely Graziella, Gianni, and their two daughters, Elisa and Chiara. Their sunny patios, green leafy gardens, six immaculate beach bungalow-type rooms, and five sunlit apartments make this a welcoming place to stay (breakfast extra, family rooms, air-con, bar, pay parking, Via D. Viviani 12, tel. 0187-800-823, mobile 349-105-6016, www.adurmi.it, info@adurmi.it).
$$ Albergo Primavera is homey and family-run, with 17 colorful rooms—10 with balconies (but no views)—just a half-block from the beach (family rooms, request a quiet room off the street, includes hearty breakfast buffet, air-con, pay private parking, free loaner bikes, Via Cairoli 5, tel. 0187-808-023, www.primaverahotel.com, info@primaverahotel.com; friendly Carlo, cheerful Daniela, and daughters Giuditta and Gloria).
$$ Garden Hotel offers 17 functional, business-like, modern rooms (all with balconies but no views) on the first floor of an apartment building. While it’s a lesser value, you’re paying for proximity to the beach—it’s just across the street (more expensive fifth-floor rooms have sea views and terrace, closed Nov-mid-March, air-con, elevator, free parking but not on-site, loaner bikes, Corso Italia 6, tel. 0187-808-173, www.nuovogarden.com, info@nuovogarden.com, Davide and Damiano).
$$ Villa Clelia B&B offers five dark, air-conditioned rooms (named for the winds—scirocco, maestrale, and so on) with minifridges and terraces. The rooms, on an exterior corridor, surround a peaceful garden courtyard just a short walk up from the sea (minimal in-room breakfast, free parking; with the old town’s loggia on your left, it’s straight ahead at Piazza da Passano 1; tel. 0187-808-195, mobile 329-379-4859, www.villaclelia.it, info@villaclelia.it). Their central apartments economically sleep up to five.
$ Agriturismo A Due Passi dal Mare is an in-town oasis, just a five-minute walk from the beach or the train station. Friendly Francesca and husband Maurizio rent four crisp, quiet rooms—with sizable bathrooms—in the 1920s home built by her grandfather; their back garden is open to guests (free on-site parking, closed Jan-Feb, right on the main drag at Corso Roma 37, tel. 0187-809-177, mobile 338-960-1537, www.a2passidalmare.com, info@a2passidalmare.com).
$ Ristorante la Loggia has eight cozy, older, and cheap rooms, perched above the old loggia on Piazza del Popolo (cash only, request balcony, quieter rooms in back, two basic side-by-side apartments great for families of 4-8, lots of stairs, air-con, free parking, reception open 9:00-23:00, Piazza del Popolo 7, tel. 0187-808-107, mobile 335-641-7701, www.loggialevanto.com, laloggialaloggia@gmail.com, Alessandro).
$$ La Rosa dei Venti is an affittacamere just a couple of blocks from the beach, in the old town. Enthusiastic Rosanna and her son Marco rent five old-fashioned, overpriced rooms with dark hardwood floors, comfy rugs, and glittery seashore decor (air-con, free parking, across from Piazza del Popolo, Via della Compera, tel. 0187-808-165, Marco’s mobile 328-742-8268, www.larosadeiventilevanto.com, info@larosadeiventilevanto.com).
Hostel: ¢ Ostello Ospitalia del Mare, a budget gem, is run by the city tourist association. It has 70 basic beds, airy rooms, an elevator, and a terrace in a well-renovated medieval palazzo a few steps from the old town (all ages, dorms with private bath, private rooms, includes breakfast, self-service laundry, no curfew, no lockout; office open daily April-Oct 8:00-12:30 & 16:00-19:30, until 23:00 weekend nights; may close Nov-March, Via San Nicolò 1, tel. 0187-802-562, www.ospitalialevanto.com, info@ospitalialevanto.com).
(See “Levanto” map, here.)
$$$ Osteria Tumelin, a local favorite, has a dressy, sophisticated ambience in its elegant dining room, a casual covered terrace out front, and a wide selection of fresh seafood. Reservations are smart on weekends or to dine outside. Check out the aquarium containing giant lobster and moray eels in the first dining room on the right (daily 12:00-14:30 & 19:00-22:30, closed Thu Oct-May, Via D. Grillo 32, across the square from the loggia, tel. 0187-808-379, www.tumelin.it).
$$ Da Rino, a small trattoria on a quiet pedestrian lane, dishes up reasonably priced fresh seafood, meat, and homemade Ligurian specialties prepared with care. Consider the grilled totani (squid), pansotti con salsa di noci (ravioli with walnut sauce), and trofie al pesto (pasta with pesto sauce). Dine indoors or at one of the outdoor tables. On busy nights, they open up a second dining room across the street (Wed-Mon 19:00-22:00, closed Tue, Via Garibaldi 10, tel. 0187-813-475).
$$ Ristorante la Loggia, next to the old loggia, makes fine food, including appealing daily fish specials. Choose between the homey, wood-paneled dining room or the little terrace overlooking the square (daily 12:30-14:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed Nov-Feb, Piazza del Popolo 7, tel. 0187-808-107).
$$$ Ristorante Moresco serves large portions of pasta and seafood at reasonable prices in a vaulted, candlelit room decorated with Moorish-style frescoes. The best value is their €28 four-course tasting menu (drinks extra, 2-person minimum, daily 12:00-14:00 & 19:00-21:00, reservations appreciated, Via Jacopo 24, tel. 0187-807-253, busy Roberto and Francesca).
$$ Taverna Garibaldi, a comfy good-value place on the town’s most characteristic street, serves focaccia with various toppings, made-to-order farinata (savory chickpea crêpe), salads, and more than 30 types of pizza (Fri-Wed 19:00-22:00, closed Thu, Via Garibaldi 57, tel. 0187-808-098).
$$ La Picea, always packed with locals, offers prizewinning wood-fired pizzas and a large selection of beers-to-go, or you can dine at one of their few small tables (Wed-Sun 19:00-24:00 or until they use up their pizza dough, closed Mon-Tue, just off Piazza Cavour at Via della Concia 18, tel. 0187-802-063).
$$ Pizzeria L’Igea is tucked just inside the Campeggio Acquadolce campground, 50 yards past the hostel. It’s a favorite among locals who know you don’t have to be a camper to enjoy freshly made, budget-conscious pizza and pasta in their bright dining hall. Their specialty is gattafin—deep-fried herb-stuffed ravioli. Come early or be prepared to wait, even for takeout (daily 12:00-14:30 & 18:45-22:30, Via Guido Semenza 5, tel. 0187-807-293).
$ Enoteca La Compera offers a quiet respite on a hidden courtyard across the way from the campground. It’s casual and friendly, serving a wide variety of panini that you can buy to-go, as well as plenty of wine, including affordable tastings, called degustazione (March-Oct daily 10:00-20:00, follow the red-brick road—under the stone arch—to Piazza della Compera 3, mobile 334-712-8517).
Picnics and Bites on the Go: Focaccerie, rosticcerie, and delis with takeout pasta abound on Via Dante Alighieri. $ Focacceria il Falcone has a great selection of focaccia with different toppings (daily 9:30-22:00, shorter hours off-season, Via Cairoli 19, tel. 0187-807-370). For more picnic options, try the mercato (mornings except Sun; see “Helpful Hints,” earlier). It’s fun to grab a crusty loaf of bread, then pair it with a pot of freshly made Genovese pesto and other gifty edibles from $ Il Laboratorio del Pesto (daily, Via Dante 14, tel. 0187-807-441).
There are two Crai supermarkets: One is just off Piazza Cavour at Via del Municipio 5 (daily 8:00-13:00 & 16:30-20:00); the other is nearby on Piazza Staglieno (similar hours; for a shaded setting, lay out your spread on a bench in the grassy park at this piazza). Another fine picnic spot is Piazza Cristoforo Colombo, located east of the swimming pool, with benches and sea views.
From Levanto: To get to the Cinque Terre, you can take the train (2-3/hour, 4 minutes to Monterosso). A slower, more scenic option is the boat, which stops at every Cinque Terre town—except the hill town of Corniglia—before heading to Porto Venere (April-Sept 2/day at 10:00 and 14:00, price depends on distance—for example, €10 one-way to Vernazza—or get a €35 all-day hop-on, hop-off ticket; only one return boat daily from Porto Venere—departs at about 16:30; get latest boat schedule and price sheet at TI or boat dock or check website, tel. 0187-732-987 or 0187-818-440, www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it).
This peninsular town is squeezed as skinny as a hot dog between its two beaches. The pedestrian-friendly Corso Colombo, which runs down the middle of the peninsula, is lined with shops that sell takeout pizza, pastries, and beach paraphernalia.
Hans Christian Andersen enjoyed his visit here in the mid-1800s, writing, “What a fabulous evening I spent in Sestri Levante!” One of the bays—Baia delle Favole—is named in his honor (favole means “fairy tale”). The small mermaid curled on the edge of the fountain behind the TI is another nod to the beloved Danish storyteller.
Sestri Levante (pop. 18,000) is dominated by its big, dull modern town in front of the train station. But don’t be discouraged—the old-town peninsula, a 10-minute walk away, has charm to spare.
Arrival in Sestri Levante: From the train station (no baggage storage), head straight out and across the piazza to go down Via Roma. When you reach the park, turn left and look for the TI in a freestanding kiosk. Nearby, Corso Colombo heads along an enjoyable pedestrian zone to the old-town peninsula and beaches.
Tourist Information: It’s at Piazza Sant’Antonio 10 (June-Sept daily 10:00-14:00 & 15:00-18:00, shorter hours off-season and closed Mon mornings and all day Sun, tel. 0185-457-011, www.sestri-levante.net). They can tell you about the local bike-sharing program (€8/5 hours), and direct you to the trail (south of town) for a 1.5-hour hike (each way) to the scenic Punta Manara promontory.
Market Day: It’s on Saturday at Piazza Aldo Moro (8:00-13:00). Also, local producers of olive oil, cheese, jam, and honey set up on the first and third Saturdays of each month on Via Asilo Maria Teresa (where Via XXV Aprile and Corso Colombo meet).
Laundry: A self-service launderette is in the urban zone southeast of the train station (daily 8:30-20:30, Via Costantino Raffo 8, mobile 389-101-1454).
From the TI, take Corso Colombo (to the left of Bermuda Bar, eventually turns into Via XXV Aprile, then Via alla Penisola), which runs up the peninsula. Follow this street—lively with shops, eateries, and delightful pastel facades—for about five minutes. Just before you get to Piazza Matteotti with the large white church at the end, turn off for either beach (the free Silenzio beach is on your left). Or continue on the street to the left of the church and head uphill. You’ll pass a scenic amphitheater, then the evocative arches of a ruined chapel (bombed during World War II and left as a memorial). A few minutes farther on, past a stony Romanesque church, the road winds to the right to Grand Hotel dei Castelli. The rocky, forested bluff at the end of the town’s peninsula is actually the huge private backyard of this fancy hotel.
These are named after the bays (baie) that they border. The less scenic, bigger beach, Baia delle Favole, is divided up much of the year (May-Sept) into sections that you must pay to enter. Fees, up to €30 per day in August, generally include chairs, umbrellas, and fewer crowds. There are several small free sections: at the ends and in the middle (look for libere signs, and ask “Gratis?” to make sure that it’s free). For less expensive sections of beach (where you can rent a chair for about €8-10), ask for spiaggia libera attrezzata (spee-AH-jah LEE-behr-ah ah-treh-ZAHT-tah). The usual beach-town activities are clustered along this baia: boat rentals, sailing lessons, and bocce courts.
The town’s other beach, Baia del Silenzio, is picturesque, narrow, virtually all free, and jam-packed, providing a good chance to see Italian families at play. There isn’t much more to do here than unroll a beach towel and join in. Because of the bay’s small size and the currents, the water gets warmer here than at Baia delle Favole. At the far end of Baia del Silenzio (under Hotel Helvetia) is the $$ Citto Beach bar, which offers front-row seats with bay views (summer until very late, spring and fall until sunset, sandwiches and salads at lunchtime only, Gilberto).
$$$$ Hotel Helvetia, overlooking Baia del Silenzio, feels posh and romantic, with 21 plush rooms, a large sun terrace with a heated, cliff-hanging swimming pool, and a peaceful garden atmosphere. This is a big splurge—with doubles north of €350 in peak season—but it’s enticing (family rooms, air-con, elevator, shuttle to off-site pay parking, closed Nov-March, Via Cappuccini 43, tel. 0185-41175, www.hotelhelvetia.it, helvetia@hotelhelvetia.it, Alex).
$$$ Hotel Celeste, a dream for beach lovers, rests along the waterfront. Its 41 rooms are modern, crisp, and pricey, but you’re paying for the sea breeze (family rooms, air-con, elevator, attached beachside bar/breakfast terrace, Lungomare Descalzo 14, tel. 0185-485-005, www.hotelceleste.com, info@hotelceleste.com, Franco).
$$ Hotel Genova, well-run by the Bertoni family, is a shipshape hotel with 19 shiny-clean, modern, and cheery rooms (three with sea view), a sunny lounge, rooftop sundeck, free loaner bikes, and a good location just two blocks from Baia delle Favole (ask for quieter room in back, family rooms, air-con, elevator, pay parking, Viale Mazzini 126, tel. 0185-41057, www.hotelgenovasestrilevante.com, info@hotelgenovasestrilevante.com, Stefano).
$$ Albergo Marina’s friendly Magda and her brother Santo rent 23 peaceful, clean, good-value rooms painted in sea-foam green. Though the hotel is located on a busy boulevard in the more urban part of town, rooms face a quiet back courtyard (family rooms, air-con, elevator, free self-service laundry, pool table, closed Nov-Easter, Via Fasce 100, tel. 0185-41527, www.marinahotel.it, marinahotel@marinahotel.it).
$ Villa Jolanda is a homey, bare-bones pensione on the hilly old town streets beyond the pedestrian zone. It has 17 dated rooms (5 with little balconies and territorial views) and a garden courtyard/sun terrace—perfect for families on a budget, and the owner’s cats (family rooms, free parking, located near Baia del Silenzio at Via Pozzetto 15, tel. 0185-41354, www.villajolanda.it, info@villajolanda.it, Mario).
(See “Sestri Levante” map, here.)
Everything listed is on classic Via XXV Aprile, which also abounds with focaccerie, takeout pizza by the slice, and little grocery shops. Assemble a picnic or try one of the places below.
At $$ L’Osteria Mattana, where everyone shares long tables in two dining rooms (the second one is past the wood oven and brazier), you can mix with locals while enjoying traditional cuisine, listed on chalkboard menus (Tue-Fri 19:30-22:30, Sat-Sun 12:30-14:30 & 19:30-22:30, closed Mon, cash only; follow Corso Colombo from TI as it turns into Via XXV Aprile, restaurant on right at #34; tel. 0185-457-633, Marco).
$$$ Polpo Mario is classier, with a fun people-watching location on the main drag (daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:30, Via XXV Aprile 163, tel. 0185-480-203).
$$ Ristorante La Mainolla offers pizzas, big salads, focaccia sandwiches, and reasonably priced pastas near Baia del Silenzio (daily 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-22:00, Via XXV Aprile 187, mobile 338-157-0877, tel. 0185-42792).
Gelato: Tourists flock to Ice Cream’s Angels, at the intersection of Via XXV Aprile and Via della Chiusa, where Riccardo and Elena artfully load up your cone and top it with a dollop of Nutella chocolate-hazelnut cream (open daily until late in summer). Bacciolo enjoys a similar popularity (closed Thu, Via XXV Aprile 51, on the right just before the church). Tama Gelati e Molto di Più makes their gelato daily with fresh ingredients (near the beach at Baia delle Favole, Viale Rimembranza 34).
Supermarket: You can stock up on picnic supplies at either Carrefour Express branch on Piazza della Repubblica, at #1 (Mon-Sat 8:00-13:00 & 15:30-19:30, closed Sun) or #28 (daily 8:00-24:00).
Deli: For a takeout meal, head to $ Rosticceria Bertolone for roasted anything—beef, pork, chicken, or vegetables. Assemble an entire meal from their deli and ask them to heat it for you (Mon-Sat 7:30-13:00 & 16:00-19:30, Sun 7:00-13:00, Via Fascie Vincenzo 12, tel. 0185-487-098).
By train, Sestri Levante is just 30 minutes from Monterosso (hourly connections with Monterosso; nearly hourly with other Cinque Terre towns, requiring a change in Levanto or Monterosso) and 30 minutes from Santa Margherita Ligure (2/hour).
Boats depart to the Cinque Terre, Porto Venere, Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, and San Fruttuoso from the dock (molo) on the peninsula (Easter-Oct, tel. 0185-284-670, www.traghettiportofino.it).
If you need the Riviera of movie stars, park your yacht at Portofino. Or you can settle down with more elbow room in nearby and more personable Santa Margherita Ligure (pop. 10,200, one hour by train from the Cinque Terre). While Portofino’s velour allure is tarnished by a nonstop traffic jam in peak season, Santa Margherita Ligure tumbles easily downhill from its train station. The town has a fun Old World resort character and a breezy harborfront with a beach promenade. With its nice big-city vitality, it feels bustling and lived-in, even off-season.
On a quick day trip to Santa Margherita Ligure from the Cinque Terre or Milan, walk the beach promenade and see the old town center before catching the bus or boat to Portofino to discover what all the fuss is about. With more time, Santa Margherita Ligure makes a fine overnight stop or a home base for visiting the Portofino peninsula or a foray into the Cinque Terre.
Arrival by Train: The station is a pleasant, low-stress scene. The bar/café (facing track 1) stores bags (small fee) and sells bus, train, and sightseeing-boat tickets. Enjoy its crazy clocks while you sip an espresso awaiting your train.
To get from the station to the city center, take the stairs marked Mare (sea) down to the harbor; or turn right and head more gently down Via Roma, which leads to the town center, the TI, the start of my town walk, and recommended hotels (about 10 minutes away on foot). Bus #82 to Portofino stops a few steps below the station (2/hour—hourly on Sun, one-way ticket costs €3 at station bar/café, €5 round-trip, €1 more from driver).
Arrival by Car: Ask your hotelier about parking; some have free spots. Otherwise, try a private lot such as Autopark, next to the post office (€15/half-day, €20/24 hours, Via Roma 38, tel. 0185-287-818). An hourly parking lot is by the harbor, in front of the fish market (pay-and-display, €2.50/hour). Parking is generally free where there are white lines; blue lines mean you pay.
Tourist Information: The TI is as central as can be, at the harborside of the city traffic hub, Piazza Veneto (April-Sept daily 9:30-13:00 & 16:30-19:00, shorter hours off-season, tel. 0185-287-485, www.smlturismo.it). The ATP bus office is next door, and bus #82 to Portofino stops at the curb in front.
Laundry: Bolle Blu is near Piazza Mazzini (daily 7:00-22:30, Via Roccatagliata 39, mobile 335-642-7203).
Bike Rental and More: GM Rent also rents scooters and Smart Cars (daily 10:00-13:00 & 16:30-20:00, mobile 329-406-6274, Via XXV Aprile 11, www.gmrent.it, Francesco).
Taxi: Taxis wait outside the train station and charge €15 for a ride anywhere in town, €25 to Paraggi beach, and €35 to Portofino (tel. 0185-286-508).
Driver: Helpful taxi driver Alessandro, who has five cars and two minivans, offers airport transfers to Genoa, Milan, Florence, and Nice. He is also available for local excursions, including day trips to the Cinque Terre (mobile 338-860-2349, www.alessandrotaxi.com, alessandrotaxi@yahoo.it).
Local Guide: Roberta De Beni is good (€110/half-day, €170/day, mobile 349-530-4778, diodebe@inwind.it).
(See “Santa Margherita Ligure” map, here.)
Get your bearings with this little self-guided walk.
• Start at the square facing the exuberant Baroque facade of the Basilica of Santa Margherita.
Each day this square hosts a few farmers selling their produce. On the corner of Via Cavour, just next to the basilica, visit Seghezzo, a venerable grocer where locals know they’ll find whatever they need.
• Now take a side-trip right up the “via principale” (main drag) of the city, Via Palestro/Via Cavour. You’ll go two blocks up to Piazza Mazzini and back.
The main “street” here is really two parallel streets divided by very tall, skinny buildings. We’ll start by taking Via Cavour (on the left, by Seghezzo grocery) and come back on Via Palestro. As you walk, study the characteristic Art Nouveau house-painting from the turn of the last century. Before 1900, people distinguished their buildings with pastel paint and distinctive door and window frames. Then they decided to get fancy and paint entire exteriors with false balconies, weapons, saints, beautiful women, and 3-D Gothic effects.
Strolling up Via Cavour, look through the skinny shops on the right, which also front Via Palestro. Where the two streets merge is the recommended Angolo 48 restaurant (you might reserve a table for dinner as you pass by).
Continue strolling to the big square, Piazza Mazzini, then do a U-turn to return on Via Palestro toward the big church. At #34 (on the left), you’ll pass a traditional panificio (bakery) where you can say, “Vorrei un etto di focaccia” to treat yourself to about a quarter-pound of the region’s famed bread (a hearty snack for two). Just beyond, on the right at #13, Fruttivendolo “Milanese” sells a staggering variety of tempting produce and glass-jarred delicacies. The sense of family and community all along this stretch is a joy.
• See you back at the church.
The town’s main church is textbook Italian Baroque (free, daily 7:30-12:00 & 15:00-18:30). Its 18th-century facade hides a 17th-century interior slathered with art and dripping with chandeliers. The altar is typical of 17th-century Ligurian altars—shaped like a boat, with lots of shelf space for candles, flowers, and relics. Its centerpiece is a much-venerated statue of Our Lady of the Rose. She’s adorned this altar since 1756 and is credited with many miracles.
Baroque is theater...and this altar is stagecraft. After the Vatican II decrees of the 1960s, priests began to face their flocks instead of the old altars. For this reason, all over the Catholic world, modern tables serving as post-Vatican II altars stand in front of earlier altars, like the one here, that are no longer the center of attention during Mass.
Wander the church and its chapels, noticing the inlaid-marble floors and sparkling glass chandeliers. As you marvel at the richness, remember that the region’s aristocrats amassed wealth from trade from the 11th to the 15th century. When Constantinople fell to the Turks in 1453, free trade in the Mediterranean stopped, and Genovese traders became bankers—making even more money. A popular saying of the day was, “Silver is born in America, lives in Spain, and dies in Genoa.” Bankers here served Spain’s 17th-century royalty and aristocracy, and the accrued wealth paid for a Golden Age of art.
• Walk straight in front of the church one block to busy Largo Antonio Giusti. Next to the cinema (across the street), a penguin marks a recommended gelateria. Head right to Piazza Veneto, with its busy roundabout and little park on the harbor. In the park facing the roundabout you’ll find the TI, ATP bus office, and a bus #82 stop for Portofino. Use the crosswalks to negotiate the busy intersection and reach the promenade.
Stroll to the left along Corso Doria. The sidewalk is wider than the street, an indication that for more than 100 years this has been the place to promenade under century-old pastel facades. You’ll pass the grand old Lido Palace Hotel with its view balconies overlooking a crowded beach scene.
• Turn around and go back to Piazza Veneto. Continue walking the other direction along the water toward the little castle.
You’ll pass a rack of metal panels limiting political advertising for each party (great idea, wouldn’t you say?). Next comes a Christopher Columbus statue. He was born “Cristoforo Colombo” in 1451 in Genoa, near here—although some claim he was Spanish or Portuguese—and first sailed on Genovese boats along this Ligurian coast. Next comes a statue of King Victor Emmanuel II, always ready to brandish his sword and create Italy.
• Before arriving at the castle, head out on the little pier with the white statue facing out to sea.
From here, standing with “Santa Margherita Virgin Martyr,” you can take in all of Santa Margherita Ligure—from the villas dotting the hills, to the castle built in the 16th century to defend against pirates, to the exclusive hotels. Tourist boats to Portofino, the Cinque Terre, and beyond depart from this pier.
• Continue along the waterfront on Corso Marconi.
Notice the trendy, recommended Il Vernissage Lounge Bar with tables up at the base of the castle. Continuing around the corner from the castle (closed to visitors), walk along the harbor. The region’s largest fishing fleet—20 boats—ties up here. The fishing industry survives, drag-netting octopus, shrimp, and miscellaneous “blue fish.” (Anchovies are no longer fished from here but from nearby Sestri Levante). The fish market (Mercato del Pesca, across the street, inside the rust-colored building with arches and columns) wiggles weekdays from about 16:00 until 20:00 or so—depending on who’s catching what and when. It’s a cool scene as fishermen take bins of freshly caught fish directly to waiting customers.
• Climb the narrow brick stairs just to the right of the fish market to a delightful little square. Find the characteristic, black-and-white pebble mosaic and relax on the benches to enjoy harbor views. Facing the square is the little...
Named for St. Erasmus, the protector of sailors, this church is actually an “oratory,” where a brotherhood of faithful men who did anonymous good deeds congregated and worshipped. While rarely open, do check. The interior is decorated with ships and paintings of storms that local seafarers survived—thanks to St. Erasmus. The huge crosses standing in the nave are carried through town on special religious holidays.
• Your walk is over. For a little extra exercise to see a pleasant park, climb the long stairs from here up to the Church of San Giacomo (with an interior similar to the Basilica of Santa Margherita) and Durazzo Park.
This park is a delight, with a breezy café, a carefully coiffed Italian garden, and an intentionally wild “English garden” below (free, daily 9:00-19:00, until 20:00 July-Aug, closes earlier off-season, WC near café). The Italian garden is famous for its varied collection of palm trees and an extensive collection of camellias. It’s OK to feed the large turtles in the central pond (they like bits of fish or meat). The park is dominated by Villa Durazzo; it’s not worth touring but hosts concerts—mostly in summer.
The handiest free beaches are just below the train station toward the boat dock. But the best beaches are on the south side of town, including my favorite, “Giò e Rino” (just before Covo di Nord Est)—it’s not too expensive, and has a fun, creative management and a youthful crowd. Also nice is the beach on the south side of Hotel Miramare, which offers a more relaxing sun-worshipping experience. Both beaches have free entry and rentable chairs and umbrellas. They’re a 20-minute walk from downtown, or you can take bus #82 from either the train station or Piazza Veneto (bus tickets-€1.80, €2.80 from driver).
Paraggi, a small ritzy beach halfway to Portofino (and an easy stop on the bus #82 route), is better than any Santa Margherita Ligure beach, but it’s pricey (as much as €50/day in July and Aug). One Paraggi beach operator, Bosetti, offers a more reasonable rate (€30/day, includes umbrella, lounge chair, and towel). In high season, the Paraggi beach may be all booked up by big shots from Portofino, which has no beach—only rocks. Off-season, the entire beach is all yours and free of charge. A narrow patch of sand smack-dab in the middle of Paraggi beach is free year-round.
One of the most beautiful and famous little Mediterranean resorts, Portofino, is just a couple miles down the coast and is so easy to visit from Santa Margherita Ligure that it can be considered a sight (details on here).
$$$$ Villa Anita is an elegant-yet-homey family hotel run by Daniela and her son, Sandro. They rent 12 tidy rooms—nearly all with terraces and all with high-tech bathrooms—overlooking a peaceful residential neighborhood a five-minute uphill walk from the seaside boulevard. The in-house chef offers a varying menu of Ligurian specialties (dinner extra—not available Mon, family rooms, playground, small gym, small heated pool and sauna, air-con, free parking, closed in winter, Viale Minerva 25, tel. 0185-286-543, www.hotelvillaanita.com, info@hotelvillaanita.com).
$$$$ Hotel Laurin offers slick, modern, air-conditioned, pricey lodgings fixated on harborfront views. All 44 rooms face the sea, most have terraces, and a small pool and gym are on the sundeck. Enrico and staff are helpful (RS%, double-paned windows, elevator, air-con, limited pay parking—request when you reserve, just past the castle, Corso Marconi 3, tel. 0185-289-971, www.laurinhotel.it, info@laurinhotel.it).
$$$ Ma Hotel is a charming, crystal-chandelier-classy boutique hotel with a fresh, modern flair. Although it sits along a busy street, its 11 stylish and spacious rooms are at the back of the building (air-con, patio, free minibar, loaner bikes, Via XXV Aprile 18, tel. 0185-280-224, www.mahotel.it, info@mahotel.it, Annalisa).
$$$ Pastine Hotels: This small chain of three well-run hotels combines solid service, sumptuous public spaces, and older rooms. The two main branches are around the corner from each other, an easy walk from the station: Hotel Jolanda has lavish public spaces and regal colors, but many of its 50 rooms come with street noise and are getting a bit worn (RS%, air-con, elevator, free use of small weight room, wet and dry saunas, free loaner bikes, Via Luisito Costa 6, tel. 0185-287-512, www.hoteljolanda.it, info@hoteljolanda.it); Hotel Tigullio et de Milan is smaller and tidier, with updated rooms (the superior rooms are especially nice and worth a few extra euros) and a rooftop sun terrace with a bar and hot tub in the summer (RS%, air-con, elevator, a few free parking spots, free loaner bikes, Via Rainusso 3,tel. 0185-287-455, www.hoteltigullio.eu, info@hoteltigullio.eu). The newest branch, the boutique-y Hotel Sant’Andrea, has 12 rooms near Piazza Mazzini (RS%, air-con, free parking with this book, free bicycles, Via Belvedere 10, tel. 0185-293-487, www.hotelsantandrea.net, info@hotelsantandrea.net).
$$ Hotel Flory, spanning two buildings surrounded by flowers and greenery, is an old-school hotel with 16 dated rooms and thin walls (family rooms, some rooms have balconies, cheaper rooms with private bath down the hall, small public patio, fans, no elevator, rooftop terrace, free loaner bikes, pay parking, Via Bozzo 3, tel. 0185-286-435, www.hotelflory.it, hotelflory@hotelflory.it, Sonia and Giuliano).
$$ Sabini Rentals, in a dull but central residential zone, offers three straightforward rooms and one apartment with a tiny corner kitchen (RS%, family rooms, 2-night minimum, cash only, breakfast on request, laundry service, Via Belvedere 31, mobile 338-902-7582, www.sabinirentals.com, info@sabinirentals.com, Cristina and Giancarlo).
$ Albergo Annabella is an old-style budget throwback, with nine basic rooms. The more-expensive rooms with bathrooms and air-conditioning are overpriced, but the cheaper rooms with shared bath and fans are a solid budget option (family rooms, no breakfast, Via Costasecca 10, mobile 380-328-0542, tesibruno@gmail.com, Annabella speaks limited English).
(See “Santa Margherita Ligure” map, here.)
$$$ Angolo 48, run by savvy Elisa and Valentina, serves beautifully presented and reasonably priced Genovese and Ligurian dishes. At this cool-without-the-pretense locale, reservations are important; there’s great seating both on the square and inside. Try their handmade pansotti in walnut sauce (lunch served Wed and Sat-Sun 12:00-13:45, dinner nightly 18:30-22:00, Via Palestro 48, tel. 0185-286-650).
$$ Vineria Machiavello feels more urban Tuscan than seaside Ligurian. This well-stocked enoteca (wine shop) offers tastings and full bottles, but also serves a short, enticing menu of well-priced dishes at a few humble tables tucked between the wine racks. The menu, which goes beyond seafood and pesto, is a nice break from the Riviera rut (Wed-Mon 10:00-14:00 & 17:30-24:00, closed Tue, in the heart of the pedestrian zone at Via Cavour 17, tel. 0185-286-122).
$$ Da Pezzi, with a cheap cafeteria-style atmosphere, is packed with locals at midday and at night. They’re munching farinata (crêpes made from chickpeas, available Oct-May 18:00-20:00) standing at the bar, or enjoying pesto and fresh fish in the dining room. Consider the deli counter with its Genovese picnic ingredients (Sun-Fri 10:00-14:00 & 17:00-21:00, table service after 12:00 and 18:00, closed Sat, Via Cavour 21, tel. 0185-285-303, Giancarlo and Giobatta).
(See “Santa Margherita Ligure” map, here.)
All along the harbor side of Via Tommaso Bottaro, south of the marina, you’ll find restaurants, pizzerias, and bars serving food with a nautical view. These places are a notch above.
$$$ La Cambusa, perched above the fish market, is popular for its seafood. While the food is forgettable, the view from its harborside terrace is not. In cooler weather, the terrace is covered and heated. Diners receive a free glass of sciacchetrà (dessert wine) and biscotti with this book (daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00 except closed Thu Oct-June, Via Tommaso Bottaro 1, tel. 0185-287-410, www.ristorantelacambusa.net).
At $$ Il Vernissage Lounge Bar, you can nurse your €8 drink with a million-dollar view. There are 20 wines by the glass, plus cocktails and spritzes, which always come with a nice plate of finger food (March-Oct daily 18:00-late, Sun from 11:00, Salita al Castello 8, mobile 349-220-5846, Sandro).
(See “Santa Margherita Ligure” map, here.)
$$ Pizzeria il Delfino, which serves thin, big, wood-fired pizzas, offers a rustic, fun local scene, with a few quiet tables outside and tight inside seating under nautical bric-a-brac (daily 12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00 except closed Tue dinner, Via Cavour 29, tel. 0185-286-488).
Gelato: The best gelateria I’ve found in town—with chocolate-truffle tartufato—is Simonetti (under the castle at Piazza Martiri della Libertà 48). Gelateria Centrale, just off Piazza Veneto near the cinema, serves up their specialty—pinguino (penguin), a cone with your choice of gelato dipped in chocolate (Largo Antonio Giusti 14).
Groceries: Classy Seghezzo is great for a meal to go—ask them to riscaldare (heat up) their white lasagne al pesto or dish up their special carpaccio di polpo—thinly sliced octopus (Thu-Tue 7:30-13:00 & 15:30-20:00, closed Wed, right of the church on Via Cavour, tel. 0185-287-172). The Co-op grocery, off Piazza Mazzini, is cheaper and less romantic (daily 8:15-13:00 & 15:30-19:30 except closed Sun afternoon, Corso Giacomo Matteotti 9). Either is a good place to stock up on well-priced Ligurian olive oil, pasta, and pesto.
To reach the Cinque Terre towns (beyond Monterosso), you’ll usually have to change in Sestri Levante, Levanto, or Monterosso.
From Santa Margherita Ligure by Train to: Sestri Levante (2/hour, 30 minutes), Monterosso (hourly, 45 minutes), La Spezia (hourly, 1-1.5 hours), Pisa (1-2/hour, 2 hours, most with transfer, less frequent InterCity/IC goes direct), Florence (8/day, 4 hours, transfer in Pisa), Milan (about hourly, 2.5 hours, more with transfer in Genoa), Ventimiglia/French border (4/day, 4 hours; or hourly with change in Genoa), Venice (at least hourly, 6 hours with changes).
By Boat to the Cinque Terre: Tour boats make various trips to Vernazza, Porto Venere, and other ports nearly every day. Pick up a schedule of departures and excursion options from the TI, visit the ticket shack on the dock, call 0185-284-670, or check www.traghettiportofino.it.
Santa Margherita Ligure, with its aristocratic architecture, hints at old money. But nearby Portofino (pop. 500)—with its sleek jewelry shops, art galleries, and haute couture boutiques filling a humble village shell—has the sheen of new money. It’s the kind of place where the sailing masts are taller than the houses and church steeples. But the piccolo harbor, classic Italian architecture, and wooded peninsula turn glitzy Portofino into an appealing destination, rated ▲▲. Just a couple of miles down the coast, it’s a fun, easy day trip from Santa Margherita Ligure.
Planning Your Time: My favorite Portofino plan is to visit in the late afternoon. Leave Santa Margherita Ligure by bus at about 16:30, get off at Paraggi beach, and hike 30 minutes over the bluff into Portofino. Explore the town, splurge for a drink on the harborfront, or get a takeout fruity sundae (paciugo; pah-CHOO-goh) and sit by the water. Then return by bus to Santa Margherita Ligure for dinner (confirm late departures). If you plan to do some hiking around Portofino, come earlier in the day.
You can reach Portofino from Santa Margherita Ligure by bus or boat, or on foot. For a fun combination, you could go one way by bus and on foot from Paraggi, and the other way by boat. (I wouldn’t suggest biking it, because of the blind corners.)
By Bus: Catch bus #82 from Santa Margherita Ligure’s train station or at bus stops along the harbor (main stop in front of TI, €3 one-way or €5 round-trip, €1 more if bought from driver, 2/hour—hourly on Sun, 20 minutes, goes to Paraggi beach and then to Portofino). Buy tickets at the train station bar; at Piazza Veneto’s green bus kiosk or the nearby green ticket machine (next to the TI); or at any newsstand, tobacco shop, or shop that displays a Biglietti Bus sign. If you’re at the Piazza Veneto kiosk, grab a bus schedule to plan your return (last bus around 23:00, earlier on Sun).
By Boat and Bus: If you’re arriving in Portofino by boat, but will be busing back, follow the narrow lanes up from the harbor to find Piazza della Libertà and the bus stop (ticket machine on right; tobacco store on left also sells tickets).
By Taxi: A taxi from Santa Margherita Ligure will cost around €35 to Portofino or €25 to Paraggi beach. (Taxi stands in Santa Margherita Ligure are at the train station and down by the water on Via Pescino, not far from the TI.)
By Boat: The boat makes the 15-minute trip with more class and scenery, and without the traffic jams. The dock in Santa Margherita Ligure is off Piazza Martiri della Libertà, a two-minute walk from Piazza Veneto (€7 one-way, €11 round-trip; hourly departures April-Oct daily 10:15-15:15, fewer off-season; tel. 0185-284-670, www.traghettiportofino.it).
On Foot: To hike from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino, you have two options: You can follow the sidewalk along (and sometimes hanging over) the sea (1 hour, 2.5 miles)—although traffic can be noisy, and in places, the footpath disappears. Or, if you’re hardy and ambitious, you can take a quieter two-hour hike by leaving Santa Margherita Ligure at Via Maragliano, then follow the Ligurian-symbol trail markers (keep a close eye out for red-and-white stripes). This hike takes you high into the hills. Keep left after Cappelletta delle Gave. Several blocks past a castle, you’ll drop down into the Paraggi beach, where you’ll take the Portofino trail the rest of the way.
Bus-and-Hike Option: For a shorter—but rewarding—30-minute hike into Portofino, ride bus #82 from Santa Margherita Ligure only as far as Paraggi beach. (Ask on board where to get off—watch for an inland bay with green water and a sandy beach.) At the far end of the beach, cross the street, climb the steps, and follow the hilly, paved trail marked Pedonale per Portofino high above the road. There’s a fair amount of up and down, but it’s all well-paved and scenic. After Paraggi, you’ll curl around another bay—with the famously top-end Hotel Splendido hovering on the hill above—before snaking your way to Portofino (you’ll pop out at a yellow-and-gray church labeled Divo Martino).
Off-season, you can easily reverse the bus-and-hike option—by hiking from Portofino to Paraggi (taking the Pedonale per Paraggi trail near the Divo Martino church), then busing from the beach to Santa Margherita Ligure—but this works only when crowds are light; on busy days, return buses fill up in Portofino and won’t stop in Paraggi.
Stand or sit on the angled boat launch where Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta meets the harbor (or nurse an overpriced cocktail at the nearby café tables), and get oriented to Portofino. It’s one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful and famous little resorts.
Scanning the humble houses around the harbor, notice the painted-on details—as in Santa Margherita Ligure. You may also see laundry hanging out to dry—a surprising reminder that, while Ferragamo and Prada may reside on street level, actual villagers still live upstairs.
Now look out to the well-protected natural harbor—which has held substantial strategic value ever since the Romans first founded a town here. Since then, it has been appreciated by everyone from Napoleon to the Nazis.
A new flock of fans arrived in the 1950s, when National Geographic ran a beautiful article on the idyllic port. Locals claim that’s when the Hollywood elite took note. Liz Taylor and Richard Burton came here annually (as did Liz Taylor and Eddie Fisher). During one famous party, Rex Harrison dropped his Oscar into the bay (it was recovered). Ava Gardner came down from her villa each evening for a drink—sporting her famous fur coat. Greta Garbo loved to swim naked in the harbor, not knowing (or caring) that half the town was watching. Truman Capote also called Portofino home. But VIPs were also here a century earlier. Friedrich Nietzsche famously wrote about philosophizing with the mythical prophet Zarathustra on the path between Portofino and Santa Margherita Ligure.
Today, the celebrity cachet lives on. When you tell locals you’re going to Portofino, they say, “Maybe you’ll see George and Amal Clooney!” Count the yachts and the tall-masted sailboats, and imagine who might be on them.
Now scan the panorama on the hillside in front of you. On the left is Castello Brown, an actual medieval castle built by the Genovese in the 16th century to protect this strategic harbor. It later became a private mansion, and today is a museum featuring lush gardens, sweeping viewpoints, and exhibits about Portofino and its history (€5, daily June-Aug 10:00-19:00, April-May and Sept-Oct until 18:00, shorter hours off-season, tel. 0185-267-101, www.castellobrown.com).
Panning right, you’ll see the Church of San Giorgio, with its popular viewpoint terrace looking down over the port and out over the ocean. This is an easy option for a hike with grand views. Boats back to Portofino, or on to the San Fruttuoso Abbey, depart from the harborfront below this church. The Museo del Parco (described next) is also along this embankment.
Now look back toward town. A tidy grid of narrow cobbled streets angles gently uphill to the modern part of town, around Piazza della Libertà (where you’ll find the bus stop back to Santa Margherita Ligure). These streets—where budget takeaway eateries and grocery stores are mixed in with swanky shops—are a good place to hunt for picnic fare. Up on the right is the striped church of San Martino, marking the well-manicured, enjoyable 30-minute trail to Paraggi beach.
For an artsy break, walk around the harbor to the right, where you can stroll around a park littered with 148 contemporary sculptures by mostly Italian artists, including a few top names (€5, June-Sept Wed-Mon 10:00-13:30 & 15:00-20:00; closed Tue, off-season, and in bad weather; mobile 337-333-737).
The Parco di Portofino can provide detailed information on the many hiking trails that crisscross Portofino’s regional parklands (tel. 0185 289-479, www.parcoportofino.it). Here are several options easily accessible from Portofino itself.
Lighthouse Hike: A paved stone path winds up and down to the lighthouse (faro) at the scenic point beyond the Church of San Giorgio. Take the stairs on the right just after Museo del Parco, and keep going past the church. Hedges block views until the end, when you’ll be rewarded with the open sea—and a lounge/bar (open May-Sept, 25-minute walk). Consider popping into the medieval Castello Brown on the way up or down.
Paraggi Beach Hike: You can stroll the hilly pedestrian promenade through the trees from Portofino to Paraggi beach, and, if you’re lucky, see a wild boar en route (30 minutes, path starts to the right of striped Divo Martino church just above the harborfront piazza, and ends at ritzy Paraggi beach, where bus #82 stops on its way back to Santa Margherita Ligure—though in peak season, the bus can get filled up in Portofino).
San Fruttuoso Abbey Hike: Another option is to hike out to San Fruttuoso Abbey and the nearby underwater Christ statue—see next.
This 11th-century abbey is accessible only by foot or boat. But the abbey itself isn’t the main attraction. The more intriguing draw is 60 feet underwater, offshore from the abbey, in a specially protected marine area: the statue of Christ of the Abyss (Cristo degli Abissi). A boat will take you out to a spot above the statue, where you can look down to just barely see the arms of Jesus—outstretched, reaching upward. Some people bring goggles and dive in for a better view. The statue was placed there in 1954 for the divine protection of the region’s divers (€6, trips depart from San Fruttuoso July-Aug Sat at 15:30, some Mon and Wed sailings—check schedule at www.sopraesottoilmare.net or ask at the Santa Margherita Ligure TI).
Cost and Hours: Abbey entry-€7.50; daily 10:00-17:45; shorter hours off-season and closed Mon in winter; last entry 45 minutes before closing, tel. 0185-772-703, http://eng.fondoambiente.it.
Getting There by Boat: The same boats that link Santa Margherita Ligure and Portofino continue on to the San Fruttuoso Abbey (schedule at www.traghettiportofino.it). From Easter through September, a different company’s boats continue north from the abbey to Camogli (train station), Recco, and Punta Chiappa (€5-15 one-way, can return to Santa Margherita Ligure by train from Camogli or buy round-trip boat tickets, tel. 0185-772-091, schedule at www.golfoparadiso.it). For details inquire at the TI in Santa Margherita Ligure.
Getting There by Foot: The trail from Portofino to the abbey is steep at the beginning and end (about 2.5 hours—pick up the trailhead at the inland-most point of town, past Piazza della Libertà and the carabinieri station). You can also hike all the way there from Santa Margherita Ligure in about 4.5 hours via Portofino.
(See “Portofino” map, here.)
Portofino offers all kinds of harborside dining, but the quality often doesn’t match the high prices. I’d rather dine in Santa Margherita Ligure. But if you do eat in Portofino, $$$ Ristorante lo Stella, just a few steps from the boat dock, has well-prepared dishes, friendly servers, and portholes in the bathrooms (tel. 0185-269-007). $$$ Taverna del Marinaio, across the harbor, has a prime location (soaking up the last of the day’s sun), tables under arcades, and a small, cozy, classy interior (tel. 0185-269-103). And $$$$ Puny, at the top of the harborfront square, is a famous splurge (reserve ahead, tel. 0185-269-037).
For budget options, you’ll find a variety of foccacerie, pizzerias, and grocery stores hiding out in the tiny grid of streets just up from the water. For dessert, opposite the boat dock, little Calata 32 is well-regarded for its gelato.
South of the Cinque Terre is the nothing-special town of La Spezia, a handy transit hub with excellent train connections. But nearby is a gem—the resort town of Porto Venere, worthy of a day trip by boat from the Cinque Terre or by bus from La Spezia.
The perfect antidote to gritty La Spezia hides just around the bay: the enchanting resort of Porto Venere (POR-toh VEH-neh-reh). Comparably scenic to the Cinque Terre towns—but with a bit of glitz—this village clings to a rocky, fortress-crowned promontory. A rainbow of tall, skinny pastel facades rises up from an inviting harborfront promenade.
Porto Venere is light on sights, but it’s a breeze to reach by boat from the Cinque Terre, and fun to explore: The higher you go, the better the views. Rather than the open sea, Porto Venere faces the beautiful Gulf of La Spezia—more romantically known as the Gulf of Poets—where Lord Byron was said to have gone for a hardy swim despite rough seas and local warnings to the contrary. (He survived...at least, for a little while longer.) Scanning the bay, you’ll see the outskirts of muscular La Spezia, the often-snow-covered peaks of the Apuan Alps, the resort town of Lerici, and—across a narrow strait—the rugged island of Palmaria.
Tourist Information: The TI fills an old guard tower at the top of the main square (Piazza Bastreri 7, tel. 0187-790-691, www.prolocoportovenere.it).
Getting There: Porto Venere is an easy day trip from the Cinque Terre towns by boat (mid-June-Oct, 4/day, 1 hour from Monterosso, €18 one-way, €33 day pass includes hopping on and off, www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it). You can also cruise between Porto Venere and Santa Margherita Ligure, with stops in Vernazza and Sestri Levante, using a different boat line (www.traghettiportofino.it). The scenic bus ride between La Spezia and Porto Venere curls around the Gulf of Poets (see end of chapter).
For drivers, parking is challenging. In peak season, shuttle buses connect the parking lot just outside Porto Venere to the harborside square. Otherwise, test your luck with the pay spots on the seaside.
The town is essentially two streets deep: the harborfront promenade and, a block uphill, the main street (Via Capellini). A complete loop around Porto Venere includes both of these streets and a moderately steep hike up to the town’s two main churches and fortress for the views. You can see everything in just a few hours; add more time for lunch or lingering.
Along the harborfront, seafood restaurants enjoy a Technicolor backdrop, and boat captains try to talk you into a 40-minute excursion around three nearby islands. But the real town lives on Via Capellini (just through the big arch from the TI—or hike up any of the narrow stepped lanes from the harbor). Skinny and shaded, Via Capellini has a mix of restaurants, focaccia-and-pizza takeaway stands, several local shops, and boutiques selling gourmet gifty edibles and gaudy beachwear.
At the west end of the promenade and Via Capellini, the town comes to a point at the late-13th-century Church of San Pietro, with Gothic features and a black-and-white-striped interior typical of this region. Climb the stairs to the roof terrace for fine views in both directions (including the “Grotta Byron” sea cave).
More viewpoints line the walk from here up the stairs to the town’s other big church, San Lorenzo. With a dark and brooding Romanesque interior, this church—like much of Porto Venere—was built by the Genovese to establish a strategic foothold at the entrance to the bay in the 12th century.
From in front of the church, more steps lead up to the town’s fortress, Castello Doria. A hulking shell, it’s not worth the money to go inside, but a hike up to the terrace out front is rewarded with striking panoramas.
From the castle, head back into town; to make this walk a loop, bear left to follow the very steeply stepped lane that runs just inside the crenellated wall back down to the TI.
Hardy hikers enjoy the five-hour (or more) hike to Riomaggiore, the nearest Cinque Terre town. Get details on this and other hikes at the TI; for more on hiking the Cinque Terre, see here.
(See “Porto Venere” map, here.)
On the harbor, next to colorful bobbing boats, take your pick of views and menus (seafood/pizza) for a meal in a memorable setting.
For better values and more variety, stroll one block inland to Via Capellini. For a sit-down meal along here, try $$ Portivene (Un Mare di Sipori), serving local dishes with modern flair at reasonable prices (reservations smart, closed Mon, at #94, tel. 0187-792-722). Better yet, browse the fun selection of takeaway shops (selling pizza slices, bruschetta, focaccia, and top-notch deli items) to put together a picnic to enjoy by the port. $ Anciùa (at #40) assembles panini to order with interesting ingredients; they also have fresh fried anchovies and other Ligurian street food.
While just a quick train ride south of the fanciful Cinque Terre (20-30 minutes), the working city of La Spezia (pop. 94,000) feels like “reality Italy.” Primarily a transit point connecting to the Cinque Terre, lovely Porto Venere, or to Pisa, Lucca, and other Tuscan towns, La Spezia is slim on sights and has no beaches, but has a pleasant center filled with “Liberty”-style buildings (Italian Art Nouveau). In recent years, La Spezia has become the entry point for big cruise ships that funnel groups into the Cinque Terre. While not as inviting as its neighbors, La Spezia is a functional home base if there’s no room elsewhere or if you’ve got a car.
Arrival in La Spezia: The La Spezia Centrale train station has various services lined up along track 1; at the Cinque Terre end are pay WCs and luggage storage that’s not dependably available. In the middle of the platform you’ll find a city TI and a Cinque Terre National Park information point, where you can buy park tickets—including the Cinque Terre Treno Multi-Service Card that includes both trains and trails (daily 7:30-19:30, off-season 9:00-17:30, tel. 0187-743-500, www.parconazionale5terre.it). Don’t use the La Spezia Migliarina station, where some trains terminate, which is more remote.
For drivers, the easiest parking is under the train station, at the slick and modern Park Centro Stazione (enter from Via Fiume, €18/day, reserve ahead, www.mobpark.eu/it/). Free parking is at Piazza d’Armi, a 20-minute walk or short bus ride from the station (entrance at Via XV Giugno 1918).
Laundry: A handy self-service launderette is just below the train station (daily 8:30-20:30, Via Fiume 95).
Car Rental: La Spezia is the most convenient place to pick up or drop off a car near the Cinque Terre. You won’t need a car in the region, but you may want one before or after your visit. Avis is closest to the train station (Mon-Fri 9:00-12:30 & 15:30-19:00, closed Sat-Sun, Via Fratelli Rosselli 76, tel. 0187-770-270).
If you find yourself with extra time here, and would like a meal, a museum stop, or a stroll, here’s how to accomplish all three: Exit the station, turn left, and walk a long downhill block (on Via Paleocapa Pietro) to the roundabout at Piazza Saint Bon, which marks the start of a pleasant pedestrian zone—with several eateries—on Via Fiume (which turns into Via del Prione). Continuing on this street to the harborfront gardens makes a nice stroll (it’s one mile from station to harbor). Along the way, you’ll pass the nearly deserted Museo Amedeo Lia, which displays Italian paintings from the 13th to 18th century, including minor works by Venetian masters Titian, Tintoretto, and Canaletto (Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00, closed Mon, tel. 0187-731-100, http://museolia.spezianet.it).
Near La Spezia: Without a doubt, the most appealing sight is outside of La Spezia—Porto Venere. This gorgeous Cinque Terre-esque town, overlooking a beautiful bay, is just a 30-minute bus ride away (and described earlier in this chapter).
Carrara is an easy stop for drivers connecting La Spezia and Pisa. It’s home to the world’s most famous marble quarries, where Michelangelo chose the marble for his masterpieces. Carrara’s Marble Museum (Museo Civico del Marmo) traces the story of marble-cutting here from pre-Roman times until today (Viale XX Settembre 85, tel. 0585-845-746). Sara Paolini is an excellent local guide (€80/half-day, will meet you at Carrara freeway exit or pick up from La Spezia train station, mobile 373-711-6695, sarapaolini@hotmail.com).
Stay in the Cinque Terre if you can, but if you’re in a bind, these accommodations are within a 10-minute walk of the station. Most include breakfast: $$$$ Hotel Firenze e Continentale is your grand, Old World splurge (68 rooms, RS%, air-con, elevator, pay parking garage, Via Paleocapa 7, tel. 0187-713-200 or 0187-713-210, www.hotelfirenzecontinentale.it, info@hotelfirenzecontinentale.it).
$$ Via Chiodo Luxury Rooms, with nine elegant, bright white rooms, is a soothing retreat close to the public gardens (air-con, elevator, pay parking, Via Chiodo 13, tel. 0187-22-607, www.costaestate.com, info@costaestate.com). They also rent an apartment in Porto Venere.
For affittacamere rooms for rent, consider the stylish $$ Casa Danè, offering 10 chic rooms with comfy linens and orange trees outside the door, plus 20 more rooms inside the train station, in former train conductor barracks (some rooms overlook the tracks but the windows are good, family rooms, air-con, Via Paleocapa 4, mobile 347-351-3239, www.casadane.it, reception@casadane.it, Paolo). The homey $ L’Arca di Noè B&B has three bright, artsy, affordable rooms—two with a bathroom inside the room, the other with a private bath down the hall (air-con, communal kitchen, Via Fiume 39, mobile 320-485-2434, montialessandra@email.it, Alessandra).
$ Il Gelsomino, best for drivers, is a homey and tranquil, three-room B&B in the hills above La Spezia overlooking the Gulf of Poets (family rooms, reconfirm arrival time in advance, Via dei Viseggi 9, tel. 0187-704-201, www.ilgelsomino.biz, ilgelsomino@inwind.it, gracious Carla and Walter Massi).
Trains leave about twice hourly for the Cinque Terre towns (direction: Levanto). A few express trains (headed to Genoa or Milano) stop only at Monterosso. Other connections from La Spezia include Pisa (about hourly, 1 hour), Florence (5/day direct, 2.5 hours, otherwise nearly hourly with change in Pisa), Rome (8/day direct, more with transfers in Pisa, 3-4.5 hours), Milan (about hourly, 3 hours direct or with change in Genoa), and Venice (about hourly, 5-6 hours, 1-3 changes).
It’s also possible to go by boat to the Cinque Terre, Porto Venere, and outer islands from the La Spezia dock (www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it).
City buses to Porto Venere generally depart from Viale Garibaldi; the bus stop is about a 10-minute walk from the train station (see map on here for location; bus #P, 2/hour, 30 minutes, €2.50 each way; bus #11 also makes the trip, but only mid-June-mid-Sept and sporadically off-season; buy tickets at TI, tobacco shops, bars, or newsstands).