8 Make Some Pizza Dough, Cooking for Good Times

I mean, pizza’s the greatest thing in the world, so there’s that. Plus I’m always looking for the most efficient way to get delicious things into my mouth, and pizza is pretty much the most perfect vehicle in the world. It’s super-versatile and can be as simple as great olive oil, great cheese, and some great vegetables that are in season. Pizza can seem pedestrian, but the same amount of effort goes into a pizza as it does making any other dish in terms of balance and eatability. But more than anything, for me, it’s about the flop test—or when you can pull a pizza straight from the oven, lift up a slice, and have it not flop over. It’s a tall order—and not always perfectly achievable—but it means that there’s structural integrity to the crust and that you’re not putting too much wet stuff on top. One thing that’s different about the crust of the pizzas in this book: You only add the salt, with a bit of sugar, right at the end of mixing the dough. This helps increase the amount of water you can get into the flour, which ultimately boosts the chewy factor and the crisp factor.

The dough recipe here makes enough for six 12-inch pizzas, but each topping recipe makes enough for two pies. That’s because if you’re having a bunch of people over, don’t make six of the same pie. Way too boring. Make a few of the combinations, and if you’re up for it, just put out the ingredients and let people take a pop at making their own pizzas. Or enlist three or four pizza buddies to make all the pizzas with you. Cook off one or two pizzas at a time while everyone has some snacks. Slice ’em, pour drinks, put a nice big salad on the table, and you’re good.

Rustic, young, inexpensive table reds from Italy—Sangiovese, Nero d’Avola, Montepulciano. No oak, please!

here’s how

MAKE DOUGH, FORM A CRUST, MAKE SAUCE, TOP, AND BAKE

This recipe will give you enough dough to make six 12-inch pies, but you can easily scale down to two pizzas or up to make as many as you want. You could also just make the whole batch and freeze the leftover dough wrapped in plastic wrap. To make your life easier, you can make the dough up to three days ahead and store it in the fridge. Anything longer than that, though, and you’re in flat, deflated pizza territory. If you don’t have a pizza stone or peel, no problem. Just use two rimless baking sheets (or two upside-down rimmed baking sheets)—one that will sit on the lowest rack of your oven while it preheats, and one that you’ll flour and assemble the pizza on.

A couple of technical notes: Don’t substitute another flour for the 00 flour, or use what might be labeled “pizza flour.” The 00 kind is a high-gluten flour that gives you a perfectly crispy, chewy crust. We like the Caputo brand, and King Arthur makes a good version. Also, if you have a sourdough starter, use it for a more deeply flavored crust. Just substitute ¼ cup starter for ¼ cup of the water and ¼ cup of the all-purpose flour.

MAKES SIX 12-INCH PIZZAS

Dough

1½ teaspoons (one 1.25-ounce packet) active dry yeast

3½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for working the dough

2¾ cups 00 flour

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2½ cups water

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon kosher salt

Basic Tomato Sauce

1 (14-ounce) can crushed tomatoes (preferably Bianco diNapoli, San Marzano, or Muir Glen)

1 clove garlic, grated

1 teaspoon kosher salt

About 2 cups of toppings of your choice (assorted cheeses, vegetables, or meats)

Make the Dough

(1) In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment (or in a medium mixing bowl using a wooden spoon, if mixing by hand), combine the yeast and flours. With the mixer running on low speed, slowly pour in the oil. Add the water and mix until combined. The dough will be quite wet.

(2) Knead the dough for 5 minutes with the mixer by continuing to let it run, or turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and knead by hand for 5 minutes. Sprinkle the sugar and salt on top of the dough and continue to knead vigorously for 1 minute, or until the dough comes together.

(3, 4) Divide the dough into six equal pieces and shape each chunk into a ball. (5) Lightly flour a baking sheet. Place the dough balls on the baking sheet. Sprinkle more flour over the top of the dough and cover with plastic wrap. Let the dough sit at room temperature for 1 hour, or until doubled in size. The dough can be used at this point, but it will only improve by spending the night in the refrigerator. You can keep it there for 3 days before it will be deflated and make flat pizza. If you refrigerate the dough, it does not have to come back to room temperature before shaping and cooking it.

Form a Crust

Preheat the oven to 500°F with a pizza stone or rimless baking sheet on the lowest rack possible. You want your oven to preheat for at least 30 minutes so that everything is good and hot. A hot oven is crucial for a crisp crust.

Dust a pizza peel, rimless baking sheet, or the underside of a rimmed baking sheet with all-purpose flour. Place one ball of dough on your work surface. (6) Flatten the center of the dough using your fingertips, moving in a circular pattern from the center of the dough out toward the edge. Continue using your fingertips to flatten the dough and form a ½-inch lip around the edge. This will become the crust (or the cornicione, if you’re fancy).

Continue to enlarge the dough, pressing out from the center until it is 6 to 7 inches in diameter. (7) Here’s where it gets a little tricky: You’re going to pick up the dough. Let the dough rest over the backs of your hands. (8) Working close to the edge of the dough, but preserving the lip you’ve created, gently—but assuredly—inch your hands away from each other, carefully stretching the dough. Bring them back together and repeat. The dough will naturally rotate around so that it’s being evenly stretched. Continue until the dough is 12 to 15 inches in diameter and very thin. Don’t sweat it if you end up with more of a football or amoeba than a circle—I never trust a perfect pizza. And if the dough rips, just set it down on your floured surface and pinch together the tear. That’s the beauty of working with a super-hydrated dough.

Lay your dough on the peel and give the peel a quick jerk to do a “check shake.” The dough should slide easily around on the peel, which is how you know you’ll be able to transfer it to the pizza stone or pan without your fully dressed pizza becoming a crumpled mess. If the dough sticks, gently lift one side and throw some flour underneath. Give it another shake to loosen.

Make the Sauce

In a small bowl, combine the tomatoes, garlic, and salt. You can make this ahead and let it sit at room temperature for a day or store in the fridge for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 2 months.

Top and Bake the Pizza

(9) Spread ¼ cup sauce (Pistachio Pesto, this page, is pictured) with the back of a spoon up to the lip of the dough. Use the sauce sparingly and work quickly so the dough doesn’t get soggy. A huge misstep people make is putting too much sauce on the dough. Don’t do it. Continue with any other toppings. Less is more! Quickly slide the dough from the peel onto the preheated stone or baking sheet. Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, until the cheese is bubbly and the crust is golden. Remove the pizza from the oven using your peel or a rimless baking sheet and a pair of tongs. Let the pizza cool for a minute before you slice and serve, if you can last that long.

Pretty much every serious pizza guy says the same thing when you ask, “What’s the sauce for your Margherita?” Raw tomatoes. Maybe they add a handful of basil or some garlic, but it’s always raw tomatoes. It’s just good, clean, tomato flavor and it’s less gloopy than a cooked sauce. I mean why cook them if you don’t have to?

The first thing you’ll want to do is make sure you’re using tomatoes in juice, not in sauce. Then look for good (preferably Italian) tomatoes, since cheaper ones don’t have as much “zing” to them. The higher-quality brands are canned a little bit quicker, so the tomatoes are a little fresher and have more acidity and a richer flavor. My first choice is Bianco DiNapoli (owned by my great friend and pizza hero Chris Bianco), followed by San Marzano and Muir Glen.

The easiest tomatoes to work with are the ones that are already crushed so you don’t have to do anything to them, but if you can only find whole tomatoes, just give them a couple clicks in the blender. You could also use a food mill, if that excites you. I highly recommend making extra batches of this sauce, as it keeps for a week and freezes well, and you can use it to do things like braise chicken or toss with pasta. And don’t skip grating the garlic—it makes a world of difference.

PICTURED ON THIS PAGE (LOWER RIGHT). This is major Italiano. Mortadella, bitter greens, and Taleggio—how much more Italian can you get? I would be okay with regular bologna, such as a good kosher version. Extra points for olive pimento loaf. And people are always wondering what to do with the bologna that has the nuts in it—here you go.

MAKE THE CHARRED GREENS Heat the oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat until shimmery and hot. Add the greens and cook without moving the pan or greens for 1 minute, or until they’re slightly charred. Sprinkle the greens with the salt, garlic, lemon juice, and chile flakes. Cook for 2 minutes more, or until the greens are wilted but still have some crunch.

STRETCH, TOP, AND BAKE THE PIZZA Preheat the oven to 500°F with a pizza stone or rimless baking sheet on the lowest rack. Let the oven heat for at least 30 minutes before cooking the pizzas.

Dust a pizza peel, rimless baking sheet, or the underside of a rimmed baking sheet with all-purpose flour. Stretch one ball of dough on the floured peel or rimless baking sheet (see this page). Spread with 1 teaspoon of the oil and top with half of the sliced bologna, Taleggio cheese, greens, and olives. Get your peel level with the baking stone and give the peel a good shove to transfer the pizza to the stone. Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cheese is bubbly and the crust is browned.

Remove the first pizza from the oven using your peel or a rimless baking sheet and a pair of tongs. Let the pizza sit for a minute, then top with half of the Parmigiano cheese. Repeat with the second pizza.

SERVE AND STORE Slice the pizza and serve. Store leftover cold pizza in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days.

A Michel Nischan–inspired special: This one has winter squash, thinly sliced, quickly roasted in the oven, and finished with honey and lemon. The squash is sweet and caramelized and awesome, and it adds really nice texture to a pizza. It’s also a great back-pocket item for tossing with some greens, grains, or toasted bread.

Roasted Squash

8 ounces winter squash (about ½ medium butternut, 1 delicata, or 1 acorn)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon honey

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon thyme leaves*

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Kale Pesto

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup walnuts, toasted in a skillet until aromatic

¼ cup grated Pecorino or Parmigiano cheese

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 clove garlic, peeled

Pinch of crushed red chile flakes

2 cups coarsely chopped Tuscan kale (ribs removed before chopping)

½ teaspoon kosher salt

2 balls pizza dough (see this page)

1 cup Basic Tomato Sauce (this page)

¼ cup walnuts

2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano cheese

1 cup arugula

¼ red onion, slivered

Juice of 1 wedge lemon

Pinch of salt

*Not necessary if you don’t have fresh handy.

MAKE THE ROASTED SQUASH Preheat the oven to 350°F. Cut off the ends of the squash, slice it in half lengthwise, and scoop out the seeds with a spoon. Cut it into ¼-inch slices.

On a rimmed baking sheet, toss the squash with the oil, honey, salt, thyme, if using, and pepper so it’s evenly coated. Roast for 8 minutes, or until the squash starts to sizzle. Stir everything around a bit and roast for 5 minutes more, or until the squash is golden brown and tender but not falling apart. Set aside.

MAKE THE KALE PESTO In a blender or food processor, combine the oil, walnuts, cheese, lemon juice, garlic, and chile flakes and blend until smooth. Add the kale and salt and continue blending until smooth. Use now or store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

STRETCH, TOP, AND BAKE THE PIZZA Preheat the oven to 500°F with a pizza stone or rimless baking sheet on the lowest rack. Let the oven heat for at least 30 minutes before cooking the pizzas.

Dust a pizza peel, rimless baking sheet, or the underside of a rimmed baking sheet with all-purpose flour. Stretch one ball of dough on the floured peel or rimless baking sheet (see this page). Spread with half of the tomato sauce, and top with half of the squash and 2 tablespoons of the walnuts. Dollop about 2 tablespoons of the pesto around the pizza. Get your peel level with the baking stone and give the peel a good shove to transfer the pizza to the stone. Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cheese is bubbly and the crust has taken on some nice brown color.

Remove the first pizza from the oven using your peel or a rimless baking sheet and a pair of tongs. Let the pizza sit for a minute, then top with half of the grated cheese. Repeat with the second pizza.

While the second pizza is baking, combine the arugula, onion, lemon juice, and salt in a medium bowl. Toss to mis.

SERVE AND STORE Top each pizza with half of the salad, slice, and serve. Store leftover cold pizza in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days.

This is like a Midwestern version of East Coast clam pie, but instead of the steamed clams we’re using smoked whitefish. There’s no tomato or cheese here, just a garlic-infused white sauce that balances things out with some richness, while marinated kale adds a bright brininess.

MAKE THE GARLIC CREAM In a small pot, combine the cream, garlic, and salt. Cook over low heat for about 20 minutes, or until the mixture is reduced by half. Keep an eye on it so it doesn’t bubble over. Strain the mixture into a small bowl and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.

STRETCH, TOP, AND BAKE THE PIZZA Preheat the oven to 500°F with a pizza stone or rimless baking sheet on the lowest rack. Let the oven heat for at least 30 minutes before cooking the pizzas.

Dust a pizza peel, rimless baking sheet, or the underside of a rimmed baking sheet with all-purpose flour. Stretch one ball of dough on the floured peel or rimless baking sheet (see this page). Spread with half of the garlic cream (about ¼ cup). Top with half of the smoked fish, half of the marinated kale, and a couple pinches of chile flakes. Drizzle 1 teaspoon of the oil over the crust. Get your peel level with the baking stone and give the peel a good shove to transfer the pizza to the stone. Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cream sauce is bubbly, the kale is wilted, and the crust has taken on some nice brown color.

Remove the first pizza from the oven using your peel or a rimless baking sheet and a pair of tongs. Let the pizza sit for at least a minute, then squeeze one of the lemon wedges over the top. Repeat with the second pizza.

SERVE AND STORE Slice the pizza and serve. Store leftover cold pizza in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days.

The first time I had pistachios on a pizza—and the pizza that really enlightened me—was at chef Suzanne Goin’s wedding at Chris Bianco’s Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix. Chris does this pie that’s just olive oil, fresh thyme, red onion, pistachios, and Parmesan. I’ve re-created it in my own kitchen so many times, and even my not-Bianco version is mind-meltingly delicious. For this version, I took the pistachios and swapped them in for the usual pine nuts in a pesto, along with mint and spinach for basil, which gives you a brighter, herbier sauce that we use here instead of a traditional red sauce. It gets topped with Italian sausage (if you could find a lamb merguez, that would be great here, too) and feta. The effect is fresh and springy. But it could just as easily be served in winter—it’s not like you can’t find good baby spinach at the market year-round. As for buying feta, quality matters. It’s not a food snob thing, it’s just that some fetas melt better than others. So you’re looking for one that’s nice and creamy, not that dry, chalky, oversalted stuff. If the only feta you can find at the store is one that’s pre-crumbled or floating in water, substitute a good, creamy goat cheese.

Pistachio Pesto

2 tablespoons pistachios, toasted in a skillet until aromatic

½ clove garlic

1½ teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons grated Pecorino or Parmigiano cheese

Pinch of crushed red chile flakes

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup spinach

½ cup mint with stems, coarsely chopped

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

2 balls pizza dough (see this page)

4 ounces ground Italian sausage, browned and drained

4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

¼ red onion, thinly sliced

3 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup arugula

¼ cup basil leaves, torn

½ teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Pinch of kosher salt

MAKE THE PISTACHIO PESTO In a blender or food processor, combine the pistachios, garlic, lemon juice, grated cheese, chile flakes, and oil and blend until smooth. Add the spinach, mint, and salt and blend again until smooth. Set aside until ready to serve or store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

STRETCH, TOP, AND BAKE THE PIZZA Preheat the oven to 500°F with a pizza stone or rimless baking sheet on the lowest rack. Let the oven heat for at least 30 minutes before cooking the pizzas.

MAKE THE GARLIC CHILE OIL In a small pot, combine the garlic, oil, and salt. Place over low heat and bring barely to a simmer. Cook until the garlic is tender but not browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and stir in the chiles. Add the basil and pour the oil into a small bowl. Let it rest at room temperature for about 10 minutes. This can be set aside until ready to use or stored in the fridge for up to 1 week; just return to room temperature for 1 hour before use.

STRETCH, TOP, AND BAKE THE PIZZA Preheat the oven to 500°F with a pizza stone or rimless baking sheet on the lowest rack. Let the oven heat for at least 30 minutes before you cook the pizzas.

Dust a pizza peel, rimless baking sheet, or the underside of a rimmed baking sheet with all-purpose flour. Stretch one ball of dough on the floured peel or rimless baking sheet (see this page). Spread with half of the tomato sauce and top with half of the squash and cheese. Drizzle 1 teaspoon of the olive oil over the crust. Get your peel level with the baking stone and give the peel a good shove to transfer the pizza to the stone. Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cheese is bubbly and the crust has taken on some nice brown color.

Remove the first pizza from the oven using your peel or a rimless baking sheet and a pair of tongs. Repeat with the second pizza cooks.

While the second pizza is baking, combine the arugula, basil, the remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil, lemon juice, and salt in a small bowl. Toss to combine.

SERVE AND STORE Top each pizza with half of the salad, slice, and serve. Store leftover cold pizza in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days.

PICTURED ON THIS PAGE (UPPER LEFT). Adding honey to eggplant is a classic Southern Italian thing; it helps the eggplant caramelize more deeply while softening its bitterness. For this pizza, we get the eggplant nice and charred under the broiler, then layer it over the tomato sauce with a drizzle of chile-spiced honey that rounds out the flavor with some sweet-spicy goodness. Glob with smoked mozzarella, melt, and top with arugula and basil salad. Done.

MAKE THE CHARRED EGGPLANT Preheat the broiler to high with your rack in the highest position. In a medium bowl, toss the eggplant with the oil and salt until well coated. Arrange the eggplant in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Place the sheet under the broiler and cook until deeply charred on one side, about 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.

MAKE THE HOT HONEY In a blender, combine the honey, chiles, and water. Blend on high speed until smooth. Set aside.

STRETCH, TOP, AND BAKE THE PIZZA Preheat the oven to 500°F with a pizza stone or rimless baking sheet on the lowest rack. Let the oven heat for at least 30 minutes before cooking the pizzas.

Dust a pizza peel, rimless baking sheet, or the underside of a rimmed baking sheet with all-purpose flour. Stretch one ball of dough on the floured peel or rimless baking sheet (see this page). Spread with half of the tomato sauce and top with half of the sliced eggplant and mozzarella. Drizzle 1 teaspoon of the oil over the crust. Get your peel level with the baking stone and give the peel a good shove to transfer the pizza to the stone. Bake for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the cheese is bubbly and the crust has taken on some nice brown color.

Remove the first pizza from the oven using your peel or a rimless baking sheet and a pair of tongs. Drizzle with the hot honey. Repeat with the second pizza.

While the second pizza is baking, combine the arugula, basil, the remaining 1 teaspoon oil, lemon juice, and salt in a medium bowl. Toss to mix.

SERVE AND STORE Top each pizza with half of the salad, slice, and serve. Store leftover cold pizza in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 days.