Lake Garda
Garda is the most sporting of the Italian lakes. The crosswinds to the north and the dominating slopes of Monte Baldo draw windsurfers and paragliders, while other adrenaline-filled sports, such as rock climbing, and the more leisurely pursuit of golf, provide further distractions. Garda also enjoys some of the best Roman-era remains in northern Italy at Sirmione and Desenzano, as well as atmospheric medieval castles in Torri del Benaco, Malcesine, Valeggio and Sirmione. Since the 18th century, Garda’s summer villas and verdant gardens have lured such luminaries as Goethe, Byron and D H Lawrence, though the region also found infamy as the place of Mussolini’s last stand.
1. Giardino Sigurta
Carlo Sigurtà spent 40 years irrigating and planting this barren hillside in order to turn it into one of Italy’s great gardens, with manicured lawns and pathways amid vibrant flowerbeds and reflecting pools. Hidden along the far western edge are some large enclosures where deer and goats run free. The gardens are a 20-minute drive south of the lakeside.
Via Cavour 1, Valeggio sul Mincio • 045 637 1033 • www.sigurta.it • Mar–Nov: 9am–7pm daily • Adm
2. Gardaland
Under the icon of a goofy green dragon named Prezzemolo (“Parsley”), the park boasts roller coasters and carnival rides, a water park, jungle safari, ice shows, dolphin tricks and medieval spectacles. Italy’s greatest theme park isn’t quite Disneyland, but it’s a hoot for the kids.On the shore road, north of Peschiera • 045 644 9777 • www.gardaland.it • Closed Nov–Mar (except Christmas–New Year) • Adm
3. Grotte di Catullo, Sirmione
Though the ancient Roman poet Catullus did take his holidays at Sirmione, there’s no evidence to suggest that this vast, ancient house at the very tip of Sirmione’s peninsula was actually his villa – in fact, it was probably built after Catullus’s death, sometime in the 1st century BC. It is the best surviving example of a Roman private home in northern Italy, but this didn’t stop it being misnamed a “grotto”, the result of the romantically overgrown and cavelike state it had assumed by the Middle Ages.Via Catullo • 030 916 157 • 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun (to noon Sun; to 4:30pm in winter) • Adm
4. Rocca Scagliera, Sirmione
The 13th-century keep is at the narrowest point of Sirmione’s long, thin peninsula. The striking, angular pale-grey stone citadel, in use as a fortress until the 19th century, still dominates and protects the town – the only way to enter Sirmione is over the moat on one of the castle drawbridges, then under one of its squat gate towers. It’s worth climbing the 30-m (95-ft) tower for the grand panorama.Piazza Castello • 030 916 468 • 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun (to 12:30pm Sun) • Adm
5. Villa Romana, Desenzano
The most important late Imperial villa remaining in Northern Italy was built in the 1st century BC, but the excellent polychrome floor mosaics are mostly of the 4th and 5th centuries. By that time, the local Romans were Christianized, which explains the late 4th-century glass bowl engraved with an image of Christ.Via Crocefisso 2 • 030 914 3547 • 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun (to 5pm Nov–Feb) • Adm
6. Isola del Garda
Garda’s largest island once supported a monastery that attracted the great medieval saints: Francis of Assisi, Anthony of Padua and Bernardino of Siena. The monastery was destroyed by Napoleon and replaced in 1890–1903 with a Neo-Gothic Venetian-style villa and luxuriant gardens. Two-hour guided tours are available and, though expensive, do include a boat ride and a snack.Boats from Barbarano and Gardone • 328 384 9226 • www.isoladelgarda.com • Apr–Oct: Tue & Thu at 9:30am • Adm (book in advance)
7. Il Vittoriale, Gardone Riviera
This over-the-top villa was built by poet, soldier and adventurer Gabriele d’Annunzio, one of Italy’s most flamboyant characters from the turn of the 20th century (for further details see Il Vittoriale).0365 296 511 • www.vittoriale.it • Apr–Sep: 8:30am–8pm (last adm 7pm) Tue–Sun; Oct–Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm
8. Giardino Botanico Hruska, Gardone Riviera
This small but lovely set of botanical gardens features more than 2,000 species on a terraced hillside (for further details see Giardino Botanico Hruska).
Gardone Riviera • Mar–Oct: 9am–dusk daily • Adm
Tourist info: IAT Gardone • 0365 203 47
9. Torri del Benaco
This little town was once the capital of Lake Garda and important enough in the 14th century for Verona’s Scaligeri family (who controlled much of Lake Garda) to build one of their castles. This one contains a modest museum on local history, including the prehistoric rock carvings found on the nearby mountainsides. To see some of these 8,000-year-old etchings, follow signs off the main road up to Crer, then walk up the trail for about 15 minutes to a spot where the rock face shows through the undergrowth.
Castle • Viale Fratelli Lavanda 2 • 045 629 6111 • mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9:30am–1pm, 4:30–7:30pm; mid-Sep–Oct & Apr–mid-Jun: 9:30am–12:30pm, 2:30–6pm • Adm
10. Castello di Arco, near Riva
Perched above town, this 12th-century castle is in near-total ruin. Only one wall remains of the central keep, and the sole room in the complex to survive intact was filled with debris until 1986. When it was cleared, some excellent 14th-century frescoes were found, depicting nobles playing at board games and war.0464 510 156 • Apr–Sep: 10am–7pm; Mar & Oct: 10am–5pm; Nov–Feb 10am–4pm daily (Jan: Sat & Sun only) (last adm 1 hr before closing) • Adm
Lakeside Battles
In the 13th–15th centuries Venice vied with Milan for control of Lombardy (for further details see Moments in History). The town of Torbole, at the northern end of Lake Garda, was the scene of a historic Milanese victory in 1439. Venice was caught while trying to smuggle supplies to the besieged town of Brescia – 26 ships had been sailed up the Adige River and dragged overland via Torbole into the lake when discovered.
Two Days on Lake Garda
Day One
If you’re here to relax and sightsee rather than thrash the waves up near Riva, then spend your days on the southern end of the lake. Sirmione is both a charming and lively base.
On your first day, stop in Desenzano to see the Villa Romana before driving out to Sirmione itself. Walk out to the far tip of the peninsula to wander the ruins of the Grotte di Catullo. On your way back into town, divert to the right to pop into San Pietro and see its medieval frescoes.
Navigate the throngs of the tiny centre to clamber up the balustrades of the Rocca Scagliera for a sunset panorama.
Take a passeggiata (stroll) with the crowds before heading down to the Il Girasole for an exquisite evening meal.
Day Two
On day two, drive around to Gardone Riviera to tour Gabriele d’Annunzio’s delightfully idiosyncratic Il Vittoriale, then have a refined meal on the terrace of the Villa Fiordaliso.
After lunch, take the time to wander the grounds at Giardino Botanico Hruska before either making your leisurely way back to Sirmione – if you are basing yourself there – or heading further up the lake to explore the small lakeside towns of Limone or Riva.
Lakeside Towns
1. Sirmione
The loveliest town on the lake is set at the tip of a long peninsula. It has the ruins of an ancient Roman villa and a remarkably intact medieval castle (for further details see Rocca Scagliera and Grotte di Catullo).
Tourist info • Viale Marconi 8 (just before town entrance) • 030 916 114 • www.comune.sirmione.bs.it
2. Desenzano
A large and delightful town, settled in the Bronze Age and a retreat since the Roman era. Its top attraction is the Villa Romana.
Tourist info • Via Porto Vecchio 34 • 030 374 8726
3. Salò
This genteelly faded resort became the capital of Mussolini’s short-lived Republic of Salò (1943–5) in the closing chapters of World War II.
Tourist info • Piazza San Antonio 4 • 030 374 8745
4. Gardone Riviera
The fruits of Gardone’s long popularity as a resort developed into magnificent villas and gardens, including the Giardino Botanico Hruska and Gabriele d’Annunzio’s Il Vittoriale.
Tourist info • Corso Repubblica 8 • 0365 20 347 • 030 374 8736
5. Toscolano–Maderno
These twin towns enjoy a great beach and the glorious church of Sant’Andrea, with its Romanesque capitals and fading frescoes.
Tourist info • Via Sacerdoti, Maderno • 0365 641 330
6. Limone sul Garda
Limone is tucked in a cove, with a long beach, small harbour and dozens of hotels, most of which are closed from November until Easter.
Tourist info • Via IV Novembre 29 • 0365 918 987 • www.limonehotels.com
7. Riva del Garda
A bustling town, blessed with good sailing and the medieval Torre d’Apponale and Rocca Castle. Just inland lies Arco, home to a ruined castle (for further details see Castello di Arco, near Riva).
Tourist info • Largo Medaglie d’Oro 5 • 0464 554 444
8. Torbole
History put Torbole on the map in 1439 (for further details see Lakeside Battles), but the town is known chiefly as a good base for windsurfing.
Tourist info • Via Lungolago Concadoro 25 • 0464 505 177
9. Malcesine
Among exhibitions on local natural history and prehistory, the town’s castle contains a room devoted to Goethe, who was briefly suspected of being a spy when seen sketching the castle.
Tourist info • Via Gardesana 238 • 0457 400 044 • Open in high season
10. Bardolino
Bardolino has been famous since Roman times for its light red wine. The town also has two wonderful Romanesque churches.
Tourist info • Piazzale Aldo Moro 5 • 045 721 0078
Places to Eat
1. Esplanade, Desenzano
Stupendous lake views and a perfect balance of creative cuisine and traditional recipes. Delicious local cheeses and 1,500 wines in the cellar.Via Lario 3 • 030 914 3361 • Closed Wed • over €50
2. Antica Hostaria Cavallino, Desenzano
This restaurant offers local dishes and freshly caught lake fish, along with an exceptional wine list.Via Gherla 30 • 030 912 0217 • Closed Mon, Sun eve & Nov • over €50
3. Villa Fiordaliso, Gardone Riviera
A gorgeous Art Nouveau villa and hotel, serving impeccable food that revisits the formidable tradition of Italian cooking.Via Zanardelli 150 • 0365 20 158 • Closed Mon & Nov–Feb • over €50
4. Il Girasole, Sirmione
An elegant restaurant in the historic centre serving Italian food with an innovative twist. In summer you can eat alfresco on the flower-filled terrace.Via Vittorio Emanuele 72 • 030 919 182 • Closed Jan–Mar • over €50
5. La Rucola, Sirmione
The Bignotti family’s genteel restaurant offers a creative menu based on seasonal ingredients and local fish and meats.Via Strentelle 3 • 030 916 326 • Closed Thu, Jan–mid-Feb • over €50
6. Vecchia Malcesine, Malcesine
Up on the panoramic terrace overlooking the town, you can enjoy lake specialities and cool breezes.Via Pisort 6 • 045 740 0469 • Closed Wed & Nov–Feb • over €50
7. Gemma, Limone
A charming, family-run place with a waterside terrace. Lake fish, organic meats and truffle all feature on the menu.Piazza Garibaldi 12 • 0365 954 014 • Closed Wed in winter, 1 wk Nov • €40–€50
8. Ristorante Maffei, Riva
Riva’s Tyrolean roots show in this “Austrian” Bierhalle, where wurstel (sausage) and schnitzels hold sway on the menu.Via Maffei 7 • 0464 553 670 • Closed Dec–Feb • €20–€30
9. Bella Napoli, Riva
A Sicilian couple has run this crowded joint for more than 30 years, but they stick to a tried and tested Neapolitan recipe for their wood-oven pizzas.Via Diaz 29 • 0464 552 139 • Closed Wed, mid-Nov–early Mar • €20–€30
10. Ristorante Gardesana, Torri del Benaco
Book ahead for a table on this palace’s long terrace overlooking the harbour. A highly praised mix of regional and international cooking.Piazza Calderini 5 • 045 722 5411 • Closed Mon, Nov–Mar • €40–€50
