FIRST THINGS FIRST
#breakfast
Weekdays or weekends, it pays to devote a bit of extra attention to the first meal of the day. Not only does it set the nutritional tone for the day, but in the case of brunch or a lazy weekend breakfast, it’s a way to start out on an upbeat note that will carry you through all day long. Not a bad payoff for spending just ten or fifteen more minutes in the kitchen than it takes to toast a frozen waffle. (Not that there’s anything wrong with that—especially if it’s one of my polenta waffles that you made ahead and stashed in the freezer.)
In this chapter, you’ll find better, smarter alternatives to standard grab-and-go fare that will leave everyone feeling more satisfied and energized throughout the day. Think like a chef and do much of the prep work—chopping veggies and fruit, mixing batters—the night before so making breakfast is as easy as firing up the stove and looking like a star. You’ll start the day with a smile on your face and with a happier metabolism, too.
Drink to Your Health
Where would we be without our blenders in the a.m.? The sweet, cold notes of smoothies and fresh juices are a refreshing way to start the day. They are also quick to make and easy to pack with wholesome, good-for-you, whole-food ingredients that leave processed drinks in the dust. And then there’s the color factor. Deep, bright fruit and vegetable colors give these drinks not only their tempting looks but also a giant nutritional boost. Bonus: The water and fiber help fill you up and may help you ward off the temptation of other less virtuous snacks. Make it easy on yourself by cutting fresh fruits in chunks and freezing them so all you need to do in the morning is fill your blender and push puree!
SERVES 4
The next time you buy fresh pineapple, store any leftovers in the freezer. To partially thaw the pineapple chunks, microwave them on high for twenty to thirty seconds.
2 cups frozen unsweetened pineapple chunks, partially thawed
1 orange, peeled, seeded, and quartered
1 (1-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 2 lemons)
Dash of cayenne pepper (optional)
Put the pineapple, orange quarters, ginger, and lemon juice in a blender. Add ½ cup ice, 1 cup cold water, and the cayenne, if using. Puree until smooth and serve immediately.
SERVES 2
Fresh ginger and turmeric give this orange-carrot blend a slight kick. Turmeric gives Indian food its orange-yellow color, and it’s also packed with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
1 cup fresh carrot juice
¾ cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 teaspoons fresh ginger juice (see Cook’s Note)
⅛ teaspoon ground turmeric
In a small pitcher, stir together the carrot juice, orange juice, ginger juice, and turmeric. Pour half of the mixture into a shaker filled with ice and shake for 30 seconds. Strain into a large glass. Repeat with the remaining juice.
Cook’s Note: To make ginger juice, use a Microplane grater to grate peeled fresh ginger into a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl. Press on the ginger to squeeze the juice through the strainer. Discard the pulp.
SERVES 1
Ginger lends a bit of zing to this energizing drink, which can be served as is, like a smoothie, or strained for a more juice-like beverage.
1 (1½-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
1 Bartlett pear, cored and chopped
2 cups baby spinach
2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
1 cup coconut water
½ cup ice
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
To the pitcher of a blender add the ginger, pear, spinach, mint, lemon juice, coconut water, ice, and salt. Puree on high for 2 minutes, scraping down the sides of the blender as needed.
Aw, Nuts
There are plenty of good reasons to swap in alternative milks for the good old dairy milk we all grew up drinking. Sensitivities to dairy products are a reality for many people, and environmental issues, as well as the movement to treat farm animals ethically, have persuaded lots of us to look for more sustainable alternatives to animal products, including dairy foods. And plenty of people simply prefer the flavor of alt milks on their cereal or in their coffee.
You’ll find a huge variety of nondairy milks to choose from in even the most mainstream grocery stores these days. Soy and almond milks are the most common, but you’ll also find milks made from oats, rice, coconut, or hemp. Personally, I’ve never been able to warm up to the flavor of hemp milk despite the fact that it packs a decent punch of omega-3s; I’ve always gravitated to the nut milks for their subtle flavor and because they are lower in carbs and more nutritious than options like rice milk.
Before you start loading up your cart, though, one caveat: Alt milks that you buy at the store should really be considered a processed food. Take a look at the label; chances are you will see ingredients that you don’t recognize or necessarily want in your diet, like gums, added sugars, and that suspicious catchall, “natural flavors.” If you haven’t tried making nut milk at home, though, I bet you’ll be surprised by how easy it is. Just soak 1 cup of nuts—almonds, hazelnuts, cashews—overnight, then drain and puree with 3 cups of water. Strain and chill. The ground nuts can be dried and toasted to use in baking, granola, or salads, too!
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
This tastes like a treat but is only lightly sweetened.
1 cup unpeeled hazelnuts
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
2 tablespoons agave syrup
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Place the hazelnuts in a bowl and add enough filtered water to cover the nuts by 1 inch. Soak the hazelnuts overnight or for at least 12 hours.
Drain the nuts and rinse well under cold water. Transfer the nuts to a blender and add 3 cups filtered water. Puree on high for 2 minutes. Add the cocoa powder, agave, salt, and vanilla and puree for about 1 minute longer or until smooth.
Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to 3 days.
MAKES ABOUT 8 CUPS
A favorite breakfast treat in my family, this granola is made with agave for just a touch of sweetness. Add a few spoonfuls of granola to yogurt. Sprinkle some on top of muffin batter before baking them. Put some broken pieces into waffle or pancake batter.
1 teaspoon safflower or flaxseed oil
1 cup dried cranberries, chopped
¾ cup raw almonds, coarsely chopped
¾ cup hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
¾ cup sunflower seeds
¾ cup pepitas (pumpkin seeds)
¾ cup flaxseeds
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
¾ cup agave syrup
Place 2 racks in the upper and middle thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly grease 2 rimmed baking sheets with the oil.
In a large bowl, combine the oats, cranberries, almonds, hazelnuts, sunflower seeds, pepitas, flaxseeds, salt, and cinnamon. Add the agave and ¾ cup water and toss well to moisten the dry ingredients evenly. Divide the mixture between the baking sheets and use the back of a spoon or a spatula to press the granola into an even layer about ½ inch thick.
Bake until golden, about 30 minutes, rotating the baking sheets halfway through.
Remove the baking sheets from the oven and use a spoon or spatula to lift and toss the granola on each one. Turn the heat off and return the baking sheets to the oven for about 2 hours to dry out the granola. Transfer the granola to airtight containers and store for up to a month.
SERVES 2
This porridge-like blend requires no cooking. It’s easy to stir up before you go to bed; the next morning you can spoon some into a pack-along container, top with fruit and nuts, and be out the door in minutes.
1 cup rolled oats (not quick-cooking or instant)
1 tablespoon chia seeds
1¼ cups unsweetened almond milk
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon pure maple syrup, grade B preferred
1 cup mixed berries or chopped stone fruit
¼ cup chopped raw almonds
In a medium bowl combine the oats, chia seeds, almond milk, vanilla, cinnamon, and maple syrup. Stir together with a rubber spatula. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
To serve, spoon into 2 bowls and top with the fruit and nuts.
SERVES 4
A twist on traditional sweet oats, this savory variation uses extra-virgin olive oil and oranges in lieu of brown sugar. Olive oil is packed with heart-healthy monounsaturated fats to help stabilize blood sugar and control cravings throughout the day.
½ teaspoon fine salt
2 cups rolled oats
Grated zest of ½ lemon, or more to taste
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or more to taste, chopped
4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 orange, peeled, seeded, and cut into segments (see Cook’s Note)
¼ cup raw almonds, chopped
In a medium saucepan, bring 3½ cups water and the salt to a boil over medium heat. Add the oats and cook, stirring frequently, until creamy, 6 to 7 minutes. For a thicker consistency, cook for 1 to 2 minutes longer.
Stir in the lemon zest and thyme. Spoon the oatmeal into 4 bowls. Drizzle with the olive oil and top with the orange segments and almonds.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Steel-cut oats are satisfyingly chewy, but they take too long to cook on a busy morning…unless you take a shortcut. My pals Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough are whizzes with a pressure cooker and shared their secret for making a satisfying hot cereal in less than twenty minutes. Be sure to use only steel-cut oats and pearled barley here, and add some sliced banana or mango to each bowl if you like.
1 cup pearled barley
1 cup steel-cut oats
⅔ cup unsweetened shredded coconut
⅔ cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon kosher salt
In a 6-quart pressure cooker, stir together the barley, oats, coconut, brown sugar, ginger, cardamom, and salt. Add 6 cups water and stir until the sugar dissolves. Lock the lid onto the pot and set over high heat. Bring the pot to high pressure (15 psi). Once this pressure is reached, reduce the heat as much as possible while keeping the pressure constant. Cook for 14 minutes.
Reduce the pressure. Remove the pot from the heat and let it sit for about 10 minutes or until its pressure falls to normal. If the pressure hasn’t returned to normal within 12 minutes, use the quick-release method (check the manual that came with your appliance) to bring it back to normal. Unlock and open the lid; stir the porridge before serving.
Go with the Grains
To be at my best in the morning I keep my breakfast savory and full of healthy, slow-digesting whole grains. My go-to is good old oatmeal, but recently I’ve become partial to brown rice. The trick is to be smart about the toppings. Forget brown sugar, maple syrup, or even dried fruit. I often give mine a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of salt. Or maybe some chopped nuts, fresh herbs, and a bit of fresh fruit—even a touch of pesto! These may sound weird at first, but once you’ve tried them you’ll be hooked, and you’ll love the way those sugar highs and lows disappear for good.
Here’s a secret: Both brown rice and oatmeal reheat brilliantly and keep in the refrigerator for at least four or five days. So on the weekend, cook up a double or triple batch of plain oatmeal or rice, let it cool, and portion it out into covered containers. Stack ’em up in the fridge so you can grab one on your way out the door to reheat in the microwave. Keep a bottle of olive oil at your desk to add a tablespoon or bring a separate bag of savory toppings to sprinkle on each serving. To reheat the oatmeal, microwave it with an extra half cup or cup of water; it may seem too loose, but it will thicken up as it cools.
MAKES 1 BOWL
¾ scant cup cooked brown rice
1 recipe Maple Mustard Dressing (below)
½ cup cleaned and chopped escarole
1 recipe Bacon and Shallot mixture (below)
1 sunny-side up egg, seasoned with a pinch of kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ orange segmented (optional)
MAPLE MUSTARD DRESSING
½ teaspoon spicy mustard
2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
2 teaspoons pure maple syrup, grade B preferred
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
BACON AND SHALLOT
2 slices of applewood smoked bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces
1 shallot, diced
Place the brown rice in the bottom of a bowl. Drizzle with half of the dressing. Place the escarole in one corner of the bowl, on top of the rice. Drizzle with the other half of the dressing.
Put the bacon and shallot mixture next to the escarole, and the cooked egg in the area that should be open. Top with a few cracks of black pepper and scatter the orange segments around, if using.
For Maple Mustard Dressing: In a medium bowl, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, maple syrup, olive oil, and salt.
For Bacon and Shallot mixture: Place the chopped bacon in a small skillet. Place the skillet over medium heat and cook the bacon, stirring often, for about 8 minutes or until most of the fat is rendered and the bacon is almost completely crisp. Add the shallot and stir with a wooden spoon. Continue to cook for an additional 3 minutes or until the bacon is completely crisp and the shallots are soft and beginning to brown. Drain on a paper towel.
SERVES 4
Better in both taste and in nutrition than anything you’ll get at the drive-through window, this tasty breakfast sandwich will keep you going strong all morning long.
6 eggs
3 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
4 whole-wheat wraps
4 thin slices ham, preferably Black Forest ham, dried well
2 cups baby arugula
Place the eggs in a medium saucepan and cover with cold water. Bring to a rapid boil over high heat, then turn off the heat and cover the pot with a lid. Let the eggs sit for 9 minutes to set hard. Drain well and place in a bowl of ice water to cool. Peel the eggs and roughly chop. Add them to a medium bowl along with the mayonnaise, dill, and mustard. Fold together with a rubber spatula to combine.
Lay the four wraps on your work surface. Lay a slice of ham in the middle of each, keeping it closer to one end. Top with some of the arugula, then place a portion of the egg salad on each. Roll each wrap as you would a burrito, pulling half of the wrap over the egg salad, bringing the bottom of the wrap up, and then continuing to roll so that you have one end open and one end closed to keep everything in. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve, up to an hour or two.
SERVES 4
Even people who claim not to love tofu seem to find it irresistible when it’s scrambled up with veggies and served hot for breakfast. Serve with warm corn tortillas.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and cut into ⅓-inch dice
2 shallots, sliced into rings
1 serrano chile, diced small
1 garlic clove, minced
1 (12-ounce) container extra-firm tofu, drained and dried well with paper towels
1¼ teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
Heat a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. When hot, pour the oil in the pan and add the bell pepper, shallots, and chile. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes or until the bell pepper begins to soften. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute longer.
Crumble the tofu into the pan and mix with a rubber spatula to combine. Add the cumin, salt, turmeric, coriander, and cayenne and cook for an additional 4 minutes, stirring often to distribute the spices evenly. Stir in the black beans and cook for another 2 minutes or until the beans are heated through. Sprinkle with the cilantro and serve.
A Toast to Breakfast
We’ve come a long way since Adam and Eve on a raft (two eggs on toast) was the standard breakfast order. Most of us have upgraded from squishy white-bread toast to a more nutritious slice made with whole grains and seeds, and passed up sugary jelly or jam for something with energy-stoking protein. It’s a sustaining and simple way to make breakfast; but any of these gussied-up toasts would be a perfect light lunch or anytime snack, too. Keep a loaf of hearty whole-grain bread in the freezer (unlike preservative-laden supermarket loaves, whole-grain breads won’t last long at room temperature, and storing bread in the fridge can cause it to become dried out and stale) and pull out a slice or two as needed. Just toast and top, and breakfast is done. Try one of these recipes, or simply top your toast with natural nut butter and a drizzle of honey; Greek yogurt and citrus segments; or sliced tofu, tomato, and flaked sea salt. And I’m just getting started….
(IF SERVED WITHOUT BREAD)SERVES 3
Cacio e pepe is a Roman pasta dish made with salty Pecorino-Romano cheese and lots of black pepper. The same flavor combination is delicious with soft scrambled eggs; a tablespoon of yogurt makes the eggs even creamier.
6 large eggs
⅔ cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon nonfat plain Greek yogurt
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Toasted or grilled bread (optional)
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, cheese, pepper, and yogurt. In a 10-inch nonstick pan, melt the butter over medium heat. Pour the eggs into the warm pan and immediately start stirring the egg mixture using a rubber spatula. Stir the eggs constantly and cook until small soft curds form and the eggs begin to set but are still creamy. Remove the eggs from the heat and serve immediately with toasted or grilled bread if desired.
SERVES 4
No strawberries? Sliced peaches, mango, or cantaloupe also make delicious toppings for ricotta-spread pieces of toast. Think of this as breakfast crostini, a better way to have your morning toast.
¼ cup sugar
⅓ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1¼ cups whole-milk ricotta cheese
½ teaspoon grated orange zest
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
4 thick slices rustic bread
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
12 strawberries, hulled and sliced thin
Preheat the broiler to high. In a small bowl, mix together the sugar and cinnamon. In a separate bowl, mix together the ricotta, orange zest, and salt. Brush both sides of each slice of bread with the olive oil. Sprinkle the tops of the slices evenly with half of the sugar mixture. Place on a rimmed baking sheet, sugar side up, and broil on high for 3 minutes.
Flip the slices, sprinkle evenly with another quarter of the sugar mixture, and continue to toast until golden brown and caramelized on both sides. Remove from the oven and spread the ricotta mixture evenly over the tops. Arrange the sliced berries decoratively over the ricotta. Sprinkle with the remaining sugar mixture and serve.
SERVES 4
Avocado toast has become something of an obsession for a lot of people these days—maybe because the textures and colors are so appealing together. Add a runny poached egg and minty peas and a good thing gets a whole lot better.
¾ cup frozen petite peas, thawed
⅓ cup fresh mint leaves, chopped
1 teaspoon grated lime zest
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice (from 1 lime)
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 avocado, halved, pitted, and diced in the skin
1 tablespoon white vinegar
4 eggs
4 (¾-inch) slices of a bâtard loaf or other small rustic bread loaf, toasted
Dried pequin chiles or crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
Flaked salt, such as Maldon (optional)
In a food processor, combine the peas, mint, lime zest and juice, salt, and olive oil. Pulse until the peas are coarsely chopped. Spoon out and add the avocado and pulse to combine and form a coarse spread. Set aside.
In a shallow medium saucepan, combine 4 cups water with the vinegar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. Adjust the heat to maintain the gentle simmer (don’t allow it to boil). One at a time, break each egg into a small bowl; swirl the water with a spoon, creating a vortex, and gently slide the egg into the simmering water. Use a slotted spoon to gently coax the egg white up and around the yolk.
Repeat with the remaining eggs (depending on the size of your pan, it may be easier to do just 2 eggs at a time so you can keep an eye on them and not crowd the pan). Cook the eggs for 3 to 4 minutes or until the whites are set but the yolk is still soft when touched. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and drain well on a paper towel–lined plate.
Spread a good amount of the pea puree on each piece of toast. Top with a poached egg. If using, crush 2 pequin chiles on the top of each egg and crunch a small pinch of flaked salt over the top.
Eggs: All They Are Cracked Up to Be
Eggs have a lot going for them: They are an inexpensive, readily available, and endlessly versatile source of protein that can hang out in the fridge for weeks, ready when you are—they even come in their own nifty, airtight packaging. And now that we know that the dietary cholesterol in eggs does not translate to high blood-cholesterol levels, there is no reason not to eat them as often as we like. For me, that means a few times a week.
When I was a child, my mother served eggs frequently, and not only for breakfast. Frittatas were a staple, and we even ate them in sandwiches for lunch. For dinner, she would make a stack of thin, crepe-like omelets that she filled with mozzarella and baked in a casserole topped with marinara sauce and a bit more cheese. I loved it then and still do today. Any of these recipes would make a great Breakfast for Dinner candidate, and leftovers are perfect to pack along for lunch. All good reasons to get cracking!
SERVES 4
A classic summertime combination—tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil—becomes a simple brunch, lunch, or dinner dish when eggs are added. You can even serve small wedges with cocktails. Bring the eggs, cream, and mozzarella to room temperature for even results.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup cherry tomatoes, sliced into rounds
½ teaspoon kosher salt
7 large eggs, at room temperature
¼ cup heavy cream, at room temperature
½ cup coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves
½ cup diced mozzarella, at room temperature
Place the oven rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the broiler to high.
Heat an 8-inch ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium heat. Put the olive oil and tomatoes in the pan. Season the tomatoes with ¼ teaspoon of the salt and cook for about 4 minutes or until they are soft and beginning to fall apart.
Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk the eggs with the cream, basil, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt until light. Pour the egg mixture over the tomatoes, sprinkle with the mozzarella, and cook for 2 minutes without stirring. Using a rubber spatula, loosen the cooked eggs from the sides and bottom of the pan and tilt the pan to allow the raw egg to run underneath. Cook for 1 minute longer and repeat.
Put the skillet under the broiler for 5 to 6 minutes or until the eggs are just set. Slide the frittata onto a board, slice, and serve.
SERVES 4
Smoked salmon and eggs is a classic combo, but I find smoked trout retains a nicer texture when cooked than salmon, and it’s well priced, too. Four-ounce packages of smoked trout fillets are available in most supermarkets.
8 large eggs, at room temperature
½ cup heavy cream, at room temperature
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 fennel bulb, cored and chopped fine
1 shallot, chopped fine
½ teaspoon kosher salt
7 cherry tomatoes, quartered
1 (4-ounce) smoked trout fillet, skin and bones removed, flaked
¼ cup torn fresh basil leaves
2 ounces fresh goat cheese
Preheat the broiler to high. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and cream until completely smooth. Set aside.
Heat an 8-inch ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Pour the oil into the pan and heat for a few more seconds. Add the fennel and shallot and cook for 3 minutes or until the fennel softens. Season with the salt and add the tomatoes and trout. Cook for 1 minute longer. Pour the egg mixture over the trout mixture and let the eggs cook for 1 minute.
Using a rubber spatula, lightly scrape the bottom of the pan to bring up some of the cooked egg mixture. Repeat this 3 times and evenly spread the mixture in the pan. The top will still be liquid. Dot the top with the basil and goat cheese and put under the broiler for 3 to 4 minutes or until cooked through and lightly browned on top. Allow the frittata to cool slightly before sliding from the pan, slicing, and serving.
When it comes to a one-dish make-ahead brunch or breakfast, strata is my go-to. It’s perfect when I have overnight guests or the family is coming for Mother’s Day or Christmas morning. Even if it’s just Jade and me, I like to serve something comforting and warm that will keep us sustained well into the afternoon. A sweet or savory strata, bursting with good things like sausage, green veggies, or fresh (or frozen) fruit solves the problem beautifully. It’s the ideal make-ahead dish because it is even better when it’s assembled the night before and refrigerated. The overnight stay in the fridge allows the bread to soak up the egg mixture completely, making for a more luscious, custardy bread pudding. The next morning just pop it in the oven (let it come to room temperature if possible, for more even cooking, but if not, no worries) and let it bake while you read the paper, take a power walk, or catch up on e-mails. It will fill the house with delicious aromas, and the beautiful, crusty surface and tender, eggy interior are completely satisfying.
SERVES 6
While the sausage in this sweet-savory combo does add a lot of flavor, you can certainly leave it out to make this a vegetarian dish, and it will still be incredibly tasty.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound breakfast sausage, casings removed
2 shallots, chopped
1 apple, such as Honeycrisp, cored and chopped into ⅓-inch pieces
1 (10-ounce) box frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
Butter for the baking dish
8 cups cubed Italian bread (1-pound loaf)
1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
3 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream
6 large eggs
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the sausage and cook for about 5 minutes, breaking it into small pieces with a wooden spoon. Add the shallots and sauté for about 3 minutes or until translucent. Add the apple and the spinach and sauté over medium-low heat for another 2 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly.
Generously butter a 3-quart baking dish. Place half of the bread cubes in the dish. Sprinkle half of the mozzarella over the bread and then top with half of the sausage mixture. Repeat layering.
Whisk the milk, cream, eggs, salt, and pepper in a large bowl and pour evenly over the strata. Top with the Parmesan cheese. Refrigerate the strata, covered with plastic wrap, for at least 2 hours and up to 12 hours.
Remove the strata from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before baking to allow it to come to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Bake the strata, uncovered, for about 50 minutes or until puffed, golden brown, and cooked through. A thin knife inserted in the middle of the strata should come out clean. If the top browns too quickly, cover with a sheet of aluminum foil. Let the strata stand for 5 minutes before serving.
SERVES 6
If you’re looking for a way to get your quota of greens early in the day, you won’t do better than this brilliantly verdant brunch dish.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus 1 teaspoon for the pan
4 leeks, cleaned and chopped
1 (5-ounce) container fresh baby spinach, chopped
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 bunch of asparagus, trimmed and chopped
7 large eggs, at room temperature
1¼ cups grated Pecorino Romano cheese
2½ cups whole milk, at room temperature
8 cups cubed Italian bread (1-pound loaf)
In a large skillet, melt the 2 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook for about 8 minutes, stirring often, until soft and beginning to brown slightly. Add the chopped spinach and cook for 2 minutes longer until the spinach is wilted.
Transfer the mixture to a colander to drain any excess liquid. Place in a bowl and add 1 teaspoon of the salt, the red pepper flakes, and the asparagus and stir to combine.
Preheat the oven to 375°F. Butter a 9 × 13-inch baking dish with the remaining teaspoon of butter.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs to break up the yolks. Add ¾ cup of the cheese, the milk, and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and whisk until smooth. Add the bread and spinach mixture and mix well.
Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish and sprinkle with the remaining ½ cup of cheese. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and bake for 15 minutes. Uncover the dish and continue to bake for about 20 minutes longer or until the custard is set, the top is golden brown, and a toothpick inserted in the middle of the dish comes out clean. Let the strata rest for 10 minutes before cutting into squares and serving warm.
SERVES 4
Crepes are very versatile and can be made ahead and stored in the fridge or even frozen. Just defrost them overnight in the fridge and fill, roll, and bake as few or as many as you need.
1 cup (8 ounces) part-skim ricotta cheese
4 ounces black forest ham, diced
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 large shallots, diced
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
4 cups baby spinach, thoroughly washed and dried
1 teaspoon lemon zest (from 1 lemon)
½ cup pancake mix, such as Nature’s Path
1 egg, at room temperature
Nonstick cooking spray
3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
In a medium bowl, use a rubber spatula to combine the ricotta, ham, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Heat a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and when hot, add the shallots, red pepper flakes, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt.
Cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon, for 3 minutes or until fragrant and the shallots are softened. Add the spinach and cook another 2 minutes or until just barely wilted. Stir in the lemon zest. Remove the spinach from the heat and use the back of a spoon to press out as much liquid as possible. Transfer the spinach to a cutting board and chop coarsely. Fold the spinach into the ricotta mix. Set aside.
In another medium bowl, whisk together the pancake mix, ¾ cup of water, and the egg, mixing just until smooth. Heat an 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. When the pan is hot, spray with nonstick cooking spray. Using a ladle or measuring cup, add approximately ¼ cup batter to the pan, immediately swirling the pan to coat the bottom with a thin layer of batter. Cook for 1 minute on the first side or until the middle is just set and the edges are dry and beginning to brown. Gently flip the crepe using a rubber spatula or your fingers. Cook the other side for 30 seconds, then remove the crepe to a plate. Continue with the remaining batter. Stack the crepes with a piece of parchment paper in between each crepe.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 9 × 13-inch glass baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. Place a crepe on your work surface and spoon some of filling down the center. Roll the crepe like a cigar and place it in the pan. Roll and fill the remaining crepes. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and bake for approximately 10 minutes, or until the filling is warmed through and the Parmesan is melted.
(IF SERVED WITHOUT WHIPPED CREAM)SERVES 6
A warm syrup of white wine, sugar, and spices is poured over a mix of fruits for a grown-up fruit salad.
1¼ cups dry white wine, such as pinot grigio
⅓ cup sugar
⅛ teaspoon ground cardamom
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds scraped out
2 ripe persimmons, cut into 1-inch pieces
8 ounces strawberries, hulled and quartered
1 cup green grapes, halved
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
Freshly whipped cream (optional)
Add the white wine, sugar, cardamom, and vanilla bean and seeds to a small saucepan. Place it over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Stir to dissolve the sugar. Place the persimmons, strawberries, grapes, and mint in a heat-proof medium bowl. While the wine mixture is still hot, pour it into the bowl of fruit and toss gently with a rubber spatula.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours or up to 4 hours, tossing every hour. Bring to room temperature before serving. Serve dolloped with whipped cream if desired.
Open Your House
So many people find entertaining intimidating, but to me, cooking for others is one of the great joys in life. Watching people taste food I’ve prepared and seeing that look of bliss on their faces makes all the planning and shopping and cleaning and prepping worthwhile! If the idea of hosting a formal dinner party is what’s hanging you up, consider a more laid-back option: a brunch open house. It’s a great way to connect and entertain without the pressure of a tightly scripted event. And because your guests don’t all arrive at once, you’ll have a chance to spend a little quality time with everyone before they move on. Babies and kids? Would love to see them. Relatives visiting from out of town? Sure, the more the merrier. The women you only have time to nod to before and after yoga class? Let’s get to know each other a little bit better.
Because an open house is a more fluid kind of event, I always plan a flexible, casual menu. I like to include some straight-up breakfast foods, like bagels, cream cheese, fruit salad, and bowls of yogurt with granola. A make-your-own waffle bar with toppings is always a huge hit with kids of all ages, and a pitcher of Bloody Marys or another low-alcohol cocktail is a good addition to the standard juice-and-coffee lineup. As the day moves on, I bring out heartier fare, like a couple of room-temperature frittatas and an antipasto platter. The most important thing is to have replenishments so the table never looks picked over or bedraggled. Have backup platters assembled and ready to swap in for the decimated ones, put out fresh cream cheese and condiments rather than refilling the bowls, and make sure there are plenty of clean plates, napkins, and silverware at hand.
(IF SERVED WITHOUT BACON OR PANCETTA)SERVES 6 TO 8
If you can’t decide whether to go sweet or savory for your brunch centerpiece, this is a great option; the array of toppings lets your guests customize their own plates.
WAFFLES
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup medium-grind cornmeal
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 large eggs, separated, at room temperature
¾ cup buttermilk, at room temperature
¾ cup low-fat milk, at room temperature
½ cup vegetable oil
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Vegetable oil cooking spray, for the waffle iron
FIXINGS
Bacon or pancetta, cooked and crumbled
Strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries
Grated Cheddar or crumbled feta cheese
Chopped fresh herbs
Dark chocolate chips
Chopped toasted walnuts, pecans, and almonds
Chocolate-hazelnut spread, such as Nutella
Maple syrup
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Heat a waffle iron. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon.
In a separate bowl, whisk or beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. If you prefer, beat the eggs in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment until soft peaks form.
Form a well in the dry ingredients and add the egg yolks, buttermilk, milk, oil, and vanilla. Whisk until combined, being careful not to overmix. A few lumps are fine. With a large rubber spatula, gently fold the whites into the mixture until just barely combined, taking care to maintain the airy texture.
Lightly spray the heated waffle iron with vegetable oil spray. Ladle the batter onto the waffle iron and cook until the waffles are lightly browned and steam is no longer emerging from the sides of the waffle maker. Keep them warm in the oven while you cook the remaining batter.
Arrange the waffles on a platter and surround them with small bowls of toppings.
SERVES 2 TO 4
When I make pancakes on the weekend I like to use up all the batter and freeze the extras. That way I can defrost a few in the toaster oven on weekday mornings so Jade can have a hot breakfast without my having a lot of kitchen cleanup. These pancakes are not sweetened (look at your box mix if you don’t think of pancakes as a sweetened food!) so do indulge in a drizzle of syrup.
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup buttermilk, at room temperature
½ cup mascarpone cheese, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest (from 1 lemon)
3 eggs, separated, at room temperature
1 cup berries, such as blueberries, raspberries, or hulled and sliced strawberries (optional)
Pure maple syrup, for serving
Preheat a griddle or large skillet over medium-low heat. Use a paper towel to coat lightly with vegetable oil.
In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Set aside.
In a liquid measuring cup, combine the buttermilk, mascarpone, vanilla, lemon zest, and egg yolks. Stir together with a fork. In a separate medium bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form, about 3 minutes. You can use a handheld mixer for this as well.
Add the buttermilk mixture to the flour mixture and gently stir together with a rubber spatula until nearly but not completely incorporated. Some of the flour will still be visible. Now gently fold in the egg whites, being careful not to deflate the whites, until the mixture is just barely combined.
Raise the heat under the griddle or skillet to medium and ladle the batter by ½ cupfuls. Cook until bubbles start to form on the surface of the first side, about 2 minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook for an additional minute or until cooked through. Remove to a plate and keep warm in a low oven until all of the batter is used and you are ready to serve. Wipe the griddle with more oil between batches if needed. Serve with berries, if desired, and maple syrup.
MAKES ABOUT 12 MUFFINS
Mix up the batter for these wholesome muffins before you go to bed, then scoop and bake it the next morning to fill the house with a wonderful aroma. Goji berries are nutritional powerhouses that give these a little extra oomph, but you can substitute raisins or cranberries if you prefer.
½ cup all-purpose flour
¾ cup whole-wheat flour
2 tablespoons ground flax meal
1½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon fine salt
⅛ teaspoon ground allspice
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup (packed) dark brown sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
¼ cup unsweetened applesauce
¼ cup fresh unfiltered apple juice
1 small carrot, peeled and finely grated (½ to ⅔ cup)
¼ cup dried goji berries
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with paper liners.
In a medium bowl, whisk the flours, flax meal, baking powder, cinnamon, salt, and allspice to blend. Using a handheld electric mixer or a stand mixer with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and brown sugar in a large bowl until fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the eggs, one at a time. Beat in half the flour mixture, then add the applesauce and apple juice. Beat in the remaining flour mixture just until combined. Use a spatula or wooden spoon to fold in the grated carrot and goji berries.
Drop 2 well-rounded tablespoons of batter into each paper liner. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center (not the edge) of a muffin comes out clean, about 18 minutes. Cool the muffins in the pan for 5 minutes, then gently transfer them to a rack to cool completely.