Soups & Stews
I can’t think of any other foods that marry comfort and convenience better than the recipes in this chapter. Virtually every soup can be made ahead of time and reheated (or served chilled, as the case may be), and most lend themselves very well to freezing, too, so you can make a big batch and stockpile some to defrost and serve at a moment’s notice. I love to send Jade to school with a container of soup to reheat at lunchtime (her classroom has a microwave, but you could also use an insulated vacuum bottle), and after a long day sometimes a bowl of warm soup and a quick, simple salad is all the dinner that I really need or want. Coming home and seeing that pot in the fridge ready to be rewarmed just takes a huge weight off of my shoulders at the end of the day.
Soups and stews are also a great reason to bring out the slow cooker, an appliance that I’ve only recently come to appreciate, or the pressure cooker, both of which reduce the hands-on time and pot-watching required to make a deeply flavorful meal. I love the idea that I can put some ingredients on to cook in the morning, then run errands, take Jade to her riding lessons or for a bike ride, and come home to a warming, virtually instant meal. In this chapter you’ll find slow-simmered soups and others that are quick to make and refreshingly flavorful—in other words, a recipe to fit any occasion.
MAKES 5 CUPS
Ceci is the Italian word for chickpeas or garbanzo beans. Quinoa is most frequently used in salads, but I love it in soups, too.
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, coarsely chopped
2 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
4 medium carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
½ teaspoon kosher salt
4 Roma tomatoes, coarsely chopped
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 fresh rosemary sprigs
3 fresh oregano sprigs
3 fresh thyme sprigs
1 (15.5-ounce) can ceci (chickpeas), rinsed and drained
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
⅓ cup quinoa, rinsed and drained
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, carrots, and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables begin to soften. Add the tomatoes, pepper, rosemary, oregano, and thyme and cook until the tomatoes begin to break down, about 5 minutes. Add the ceci, broth, and 1 cup of water, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes.
Carefully pour the soup through a strainer into a bowl, separating the solids. Remove the large herb sprigs and puree the vegetables and ceci in a blender or food processor until smooth; set aside. Pour the broth back into the saucepan and add the quinoa. Cook the quinoa until tender, about 10 minutes. Lower the heat, add the vegetable puree, and simmer for 5 more minutes.
SERVES 6
There’s nothing more refreshing than this chilled soup, which comes together quickly in the blender. While tomato may be traditional, using watermelon in a starring role makes for an appealing twist. The seasonings—fresh herbs, lime, salt, and pepper—ensure this soup, despite the watermelon, is savory, not sweet.
1 (5-pound) seedless watermelon, rind removed and flesh chopped (6 cups)
1 medium heirloom tomato, chopped
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 limes
¾ cup fresh basil leaves, finely chopped
¼ cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a blender or food processor, combine the watermelon, tomato, and olive oil. Zest one of the limes and squeeze out the juice; add the zest and juice to the blender and puree until the mixture is smooth. Pour the soup into a large bowl and stir in the basil, mint, salt, and pepper. Chill the soup for at least 3 hours before serving.
To serve, pour the soup into chilled bowls. Cut the remaining lime into wedges and use to garnish the bowls.
SERVES 4 TO 6
With beans, pancetta, and cheese, this broth-based soup is packed with protein and filling enough to make a meal.
3 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces pancetta, chopped
3 large shallots, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
4 cups chopped Swiss chard (1 bunch, trimmed)
6 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 (9-ounce) package fresh cheese tortellini
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a large heavy soup pot, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the pancetta, shallots, carrot, and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is crisp, about 5 minutes.
Add the beans, Swiss chard, and broth. Bring the soup to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the tortellini and cook for 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
SERVES 4
When Italians talk about comfort food, this is what they mean. I often make it for Jade when she’s feeling under the weather; the mild flavors and soft texture are easy on her tummy but warming and filling. The trick to perfect pastina soup is to cook the little pasta shapes in the broth so that they soak up a lot of the liquid. The final “soup” is a cross between a risotto and a very thick stew.
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
2 shallots, minced
3 fresh thyme sprigs
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
1 (2-inch) piece of Parmesan rind
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1¼ cups little star pasta (stelline)
1 cup frozen peas, thawed
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest (optional)
Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil, celery, carrot, and shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes.
Add the thyme, salt, Parmesan rind, chicken broth, and 1 cup of water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.
Add the pasta and stir with a wooden spoon to prevent sticking to the pan. Return to a simmer and continue to cook for 8 to 10 minutes more, or until the pasta is cooked and the liquid is slightly thickened.
Remove the thyme sprigs and Parmesan rind. Stir in the peas. Ladle the soup into bowls and top with the grated cheese and lemon zest if desired.
Pass the Soup
Healthy, restorative, and as easy to make as it is to eat, this brothy bean and veggie soup is too good to keep to yourself.
There is something so satisfying about stirring up a big batch of soup, watching a handful of humble ingredients transform into a complexly flavorful and sustaining bowlful of goodness. Most soups can be scaled up to serve a crowd with very little additional effort, so next time you haul out the soup pot, double or triple the recipe so you have some to share. You won’t have to think too hard to come up with a list of worthy recipients: someone with a new baby or a new home, the student struggling to get through finals and pack up for winter break, the neighbor whose kitchen renovation is almost but not quite done, the friend succumbing to the first cold of the season—any and all of them would be thrilled to receive a jar of soup ready to heat and serve. Soup is so much more personal than a bottle of wine and more likely to be used than a gift certificate. Add a loaf of bread or a simple green salad with a jar of dressing and you will have made someone very happy indeed.
SERVES 8 TO 10
Like many soups, this one was created to use up odds and ends, so feel free to substitute other grains for the farro and to swap out (or leave out entirely) the beans. Just don’t omit the cheese rind or lemon; they give the broth a lovely savory flavor.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 leek, white and tender green parts, washed well and finely chopped
2 carrots, 1 peeled and finely chopped, 1 peeled and sliced
½ fennel bulb, cored and finely chopped
Kosher salt
½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
¾ cup dried small white beans, such as navy
½ to ¾ cup farro
1 (15-ounce) can diced tomatoes
2 quarts low-sodium chicken broth
2 to 3 fresh thyme sprigs
1 (2 × 3-inch) piece of Parmesan rind
½ lemon
13 ounces turkey kielbasa or Polish kielbasa, cut into half-moons
4 to 5 large leaves of Tuscan kale, ribs removed, chopped
Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving (optional)
Heat the oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the leek, carrots, and fennel, season with about ½ teaspoon salt and the red pepper flakes, and sauté slowly until very soft but not browned.
Add the beans and farro and toast for a minute or two, then add the tomatoes with their juices and the chicken broth, thyme, Parmesan rind, and half lemon. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a steady simmer and cook for about 40 minutes or until the beans are tender but not mushy; they should be firm and separate. Season to taste with salt.
Add the kielbasa, kale, and sliced carrot. Cook until the kale and carrot are tender, about 15 minutes. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs, Parm rind, and lemon (squeeze it into the soup before discarding). Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of grated Parm if you like.
The slow cooker is a time-pressed cook’s secret weapon. Plan ahead, do a little bit of work upfront, and a few hours later, there you have it: the home-cooked dish of your dreams. No wonder slow-cooker recipes are so popular. Most of us probably associate this appliance with the hearty soups and stews of fall and winter, but this handy tool lends itself to lighter dishes during the spring and summer as well.
Skeptical? Well, unlike the hot burners on the stovetop or the hot air in your oven, the heating element of a slow cooker is completely self-contained. Translation: It won’t make a hot kitchen even hotter. If you have the outdoor space and a power source, you can even take the cooker outside and avoid cooking in the kitchen altogether. What’s even better: The slow cooker does most of the work, meaning you’re free to get outside and head off to the pool, beach, or wherever you go to escape the heat.
The meals you can make with a slow cooker are ideal for year-round entertaining. Seafood stews and light soups for summer parties; hearty stews or pot roasts for winter events—whatever you’re serving, have your guests help themselves, and put dishes of accompaniments on the side so they can add them to suit their own tastes.
SERVES 6
Here’s a hearty, filling, and totally vegan soup that has plenty of protein thanks to the lentils.
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 carrots, peeled and diced
2 celery stalks, diced
1 medium leek, washed well and finely chopped
1 small celery root, peeled and diced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 cup sliced cremini mushrooms
1 (15-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes
1 cup lentils, picked over and rinsed
4 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
5 large Tuscan kale leaves, ribs removed, chopped
In a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker, place the oil, carrots, celery, leek, celery root, cumin, turmeric, coriander, salt, cinnamon, and pepper and toss to coat. Add the mushrooms, tomatoes, lentils, and vegetable broth and stir to combine. Cover and cook on high for 4 to 5 hours, until the lentils are tender.
Stir in the chopped kale and allow to wilt for 5 minutes in the warm soup before serving.
SERVES 6
If you can’t find kabocha squash, then substitute any winter squash, such as acorn, butternut, or Hubbard.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 pounds stew beef, trimmed and cut into 2-inch cubes
½ cup Marsala wine
1 pound kabocha squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
¼ cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
3 cups beef broth
Crusty bread, for serving
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, rosemary, and thyme and cook for about 4 minutes or until the onion is tender.
Meanwhile, place the flour, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Add the beef cubes and toss gently to coat. Add the beef to the pan in batches and cook, turning occasionally, until the beef is browned on all sides and golden around the edges, about 5 minutes. Add the Marsala and use a wooden spoon or spatula to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
Transfer the beef and pan juices to the slow cooker. Add the squash, sun-dried tomatoes, and broth and stir to combine. Cover and cook on high for 4 to 5 hours, or on low for 8 hours, until the beef and squash are tender. Serve with crusty bread and a sprinkle of parsley.
SERVES 6
Black beans and the mild heat of smoked andouille sausage will warm chilly trick-or-treaters, skiers, and other cold-weather sports lovers.
4 ounces pancetta, diced
1 large onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 1-inch cubes
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 pork or chicken andouille sausage links, halved lengthwise and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cans black beans, rinsed and drained
2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1 cup cooked white rice (optional)
¼ cup queso blanco, crumbled
2 plum tomatoes, diced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Place the pancetta in a medium skillet over medium-high heat and cook for about 4 minutes, until it begins to brown. Add the onion and garlic and cook for another minute, until the onion begins to soften. Transfer the pancetta mixture to a 5- to 6-quart slow cooker.
Sprinkle the pork with the salt and pepper, add to the skillet (working in batches, if necessary, to avoid crowding the pan), and cook for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until the cubes are golden brown all over. Transfer the pork to the slow cooker, then add the sausage, black beans, and chicken broth, stirring to combine.
Cover and cook on high for 4 to 5 hours or on low for 8 hours, until the pork and beans are tender. Gently break up the pork pieces with a wooden spoon or shred with 2 forks. Serve alone or over rice, garnished with queso blanco, tomato, and cilantro.
SERVES 6
Although Cioppino is fairly quick to make, you can make things even easier on yourself if you cook up the tomato base in advance. To serve, just reheat the flavorful broth, add the raw seafood, and you’re good to go in about 10 minutes. It’s a fantastic solution for weeknight entertaining.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large fennel bulb, cored and thinly sliced (stalks and fronds removed)
1 onion, chopped
3 large shallots, chopped
3 large garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
¾ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
¼ cup tomato paste
1 cup dry white wine
1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes
4 cups fish stock
1 bay leaf
1 thyme sprig
½ pound Manila clams, scrubbed
½ pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded
½ pound raw shrimp, peeled and deveined
½ pound skinless salmon fillet, cut in chunks
Heat a 5-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the oil, fennel, onion, shallots, and garlic. Cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until the vegetables are beginning to soften. Stir in the salt and red pepper flakes and cook 2 minutes.
Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until the paste darkens slightly in color, about 2 minutes. Deglaze with the white wine and simmer for 3 minutes to reduce slightly. Add the diced tomatoes with their juices, fish stock, bay leaf, and thyme sprig. Simmer uncovered for about 30 minutes.
Stir in the clams and mussels and cover with the lid. Steam the shellfish for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and stir in the shrimp and salmon; cover and continue cooking until the salmon and shrimp are cooked through and the clams and mussels are open, about 5 minutes more. Discard the bay leaf, thyme, and any clams and mussels that do not open. Serve immediately.
SERVES 6 TO 8
My aunt Carolyna often greets guests with shot glasses or espresso cups of this bright soup. Make it at least an hour before serving, to give it time to chill, or up to two days ahead.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped
3 large garlic cloves, crushed
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2½ cups low-sodium chicken broth
10 large red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
2 bay leaves
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Greek yogurt or crumbled feta cheese
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add the onions and cook until slightly translucent, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the garlic and carrots and cook for 1 minute. Add the chicken broth, bell peppers, bay leaves, and red pepper flakes. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove the bay leaves and discard.
Using a regular blender or an immersion blender, puree the mixture. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Allow the mixture to cool in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days. Garnish each serving with a dollop of yogurt or feta.
SERVES 4 TO 6
Yes, lentils in a chilled soup. They give this traditional summer favorite a bit more heft and some protein as well.
1 pound (about 4 cups) ripe cherry tomatoes
2 medium cucumbers, peeled and chopped, or 4 Persian cucumbers, chopped
1 jalapeño chile, seeded and coarsely chopped
2 scallions, coarsely chopped, plus 1 scallion, sliced thin on the diagonal, for garnish
1 cup lentils, rinsed, cooked, and drained
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
2 to 3 teaspoons hot sauce, such as Tabasco
1½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
Crème fraîche, for garnish
In a blender, puree the tomatoes, cucumbers, chile, chopped scallions, lentils, oil, lemon juice, hot sauce, and salt until smooth. Taste and add more salt, if needed. Refrigerate for 2 hours or until ready to serve.
To serve, pour the gazpacho into soup bowls, top with a dollop of crème fraîche, and sprinkle with a few scallion slivers.
SERVES 6
This velvety soup was developed by Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough, who have done a lot to help me love my pressure cooker! The soup has lots of mellow sweet notes that get a spike from the pickled ginger.
2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
½ tablespoon yellow curry powder
1 (2-pound) head of cauliflower, cored, trimmed, and coarsely chopped
½ cup dry vermouth or dry, oaky chardonnay
1¾ cups canned coconut milk (not cream of coconut)
1½ cups vegetable broth
3 tablespoons chopped pickled ginger (sushi ginger)
Heat the oil in a 6-quart stovetop pressure cooker set over medium heat. Add the onion; cook, stirring often, until softened, about 4 minutes.
Stir in the curry powder; cook for less than a minute, just until aromatic. Add the cauliflower and vermouth; cook for 1 minute, stirring all the while. Pour in the coconut milk and broth; stir well.
Lock the lid onto the pot. Raise the heat to high and bring the pot to high pressure (15 psi). Once this pressure has been reached, reduce the heat as low as possible while maintaining this pressure. Cook for 10 minutes. Use the quick-release method to bring the pot’s pressure back to normal.
Unlock and open the pot, and stir in the ginger. Use an immersion blender to puree the soup in the cooker or ladle the soup in batches into a standard blender and puree, taking the knob out of the center of the lid and covering its hole with a clean kitchen towel.
Serve the soup garnished with a bit of pickled ginger.