Happy Cooking: Make Every Meal Count…Without Stressing Out

Carbonara is luscious but über-rich, definitely a dish I would call an occasional indulgence. Swapping out the bacon for a minty pesto and fresh (or frozen) peas ups the veggie quotient in the dish and instantly makes it a bit less of a guilty pleasure.

BASIL -MINT AIOLI

1 garlic clove, minced

2 large egg yolks (see Cook’s Note)

2 teaspoons mustard

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

¼ cup finely chopped fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint leaves

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup grapeseed oil

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

PASTA CARBONARA

1 pound linguine

2 cups fresh peas, or frozen peas, thawed

1 cup shaved Pecorino Romano cheese

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

4 to 6 large eggs

For the aioli: In a food processor, combine the garlic, egg yolks, mustard, lemon juice, basil, mint, salt, and pepper and process to a smooth consistency, about 20 seconds. With the machine running, slowly drizzle in the grapeseed and olive oils. Set the aioli aside while you make the pasta. Basil-mint aioli can be kept, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

For the pasta: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the linguine and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes. Reserve 1 cup of pasta water, drain the pasta, and transfer to a large bowl. Add 1 cup of the aioli, the peas, cheese, salt, and pepper and toss gently to combine, using the reserved pasta water to loosen the aioli as needed. Place the pasta on a long rectangular serving dish. Cover to keep warm while you fry the eggs.

Place the butter in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the eggs and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Fry the eggs to your liking. Place the eggs on top of the pasta and serve immediately.

Cook’s Note: There are some dangers associated with eating raw eggs, especially for those with compromised immune systems. To reduce the risk of salmonella or other food-borne illnesses, use only fresh, properly refrigerated, clean grade A or AA eggs with intact shells or packaged eggs that have been treated to destroy salmonella by pasteurization or another approved method.

Go-Green Carbonara with Peas

Pasta Rules

I feel strongly that pasta—any kind of pasta—can be part of a healthful diet. But with so many health-conscious cooks trying to cut down on carbs in general, and those containing gluten and refined wheat in particular, unfortunately pasta has fallen into the verboten category. It makes me sad that so many people consider pasta the enemy, something to be indulged in only occasionally and atoned for afterward.

I couldn’t imagine life without pasta, and neither should you. After a long day of work there are few things that are quicker to prepare or are a better vehicle for a variety of nutritious, seasonal ingredients, with meat or without. Those facts alone should earn pasta at least an occasional place on your weekly meal plan. If you’ve been sidelining pasta, here are some easy ways to get it back into the game:

Revisit portion size. I’ve said it a million times: a little bit of everything but not too much of anything. Nowhere is that more relevant than when it comes to the servings of pasta we routinely dole out. A two-ounce portion of pasta—yes, that’s an eighth of a box—is actually plenty to satisfy that pasta craving without filling you up. Try it. I bet you will be surprised.

Reverse the proportions. Instead of pasta topped with a bit of sauce, bulk up your sauce with extra veggies, low-fat sausage, seafood, or beans, so there is more sauce than pasta in each serving.

Use pasta as an accent. In brothy dishes with a base of stock, wine, or even dairy, all you need is a little bit of pasta to add body and substance. I especially love a frutti di mare with lots of seafood and a bit of tomato in the broth and a small handful of fregola or other shaped pasta to soak up the delicious sauce instead of bread.

Try alternative pastas. If you or a family member have been diagnosed with celiac disease, regular pasta may indeed be off the menu permanently at your house. But in recent years there has been an explosion of pastas made from gluten-free ingredients like rice, legumes like lentils, quinoa, and spelt (which is tolerated by some who can’t eat wheat), and they look and taste every bit as good as the original. Experiment to see which kinds you like best—and cook them carefully, as some can become mushy just past al dente.

Go grainless. Who says noodles have to be made of flour—or any other grain, for that matter? Spaghetti squash is an old standby, but lots of other vegetables can be shredded, lightly cooked, and sauced as you would your favorite noodles. If you have a spiralizing tool, see Vegetable Noodles for a delicious zucchini “pasta” you can make in minutes. Shirataki noodles, made of tofu or tubers, are completely carb-free and totally slurpable in Asian or Italian dishes.

Brown Butter Tortellini

SERVES 2 TO 4

Browned butter lends a rich, nutty depth to prepared tortellini, which is simple enough to become a weeknight staple. Use a fancy high-fat European butter if you want to push this over the top.

1 (9-ounce) package fresh cheese tortellini

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

¾ cup frozen peas, thawed

⅓ teaspoon kosher salt

1½ tablespoons chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the tortellini and cook for 1 minute less than the package directions, about 7 minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving ½ cup of the cooking water.

Heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Melt the butter, then cook until the solids begin to brown, 2 to 3 minutes. You may have to scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to release the brown bits from the bottom; keep an eye on it. It should smell nutty and appear golden brown, not black.

When the butter is browned, add the cooked pasta, the peas, and salt to the skillet and toss gently to coat in the butter. Add about ¼ cup of the reserved pasta water, the dill, lemon zest and juice, and cheese. Cook for another minute, stirring gently to coat the pasta evenly and adding the remaining ¼ cup pasta water if needed. Serve topped with more cheese if desired.

Pasta Primavera with Summer Vegetables

SERVES 6

Flipping the usual pasta-to-veggie ratio on its head, this dish is the perfect way to use the bounty of your CSA box or trip to the farmers’ market. It’s clean and light and won’t weigh you down.

2 medium zucchini or 1 large zucchini, cut into thin strips

4 pattypan squash (or yellow and green squash), cut into thin strips

1 onion, thinly sliced

6 mini sweet peppers, sliced into quarters

1 head of broccoli, chopped into small pieces

½ cup olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ pound farfalle (bow-tie pasta)

5 Tuscan kale leaves, sliced into thin ribbons

15 cherry tomatoes, halved

1 cup freshly chopped fresh basil leaves

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

On a large heavy rimmed baking sheet, toss the zucchini, pattypan squash, onion, sweet peppers, and broccoli with ¼ cup of the oil, salt, and pepper to coat. Transfer half of the vegetable mixture to another large heavy rimmed baking sheet and arrange evenly on both sheets. Bake until the vegetables are tender and begin to brown, stirring after the first 10 minutes, about 20 minutes total.

Meanwhile, cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, tender but still firm to the bite, about 8 minutes. Drain, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid.

Toss the pasta with the roasted vegetables, kale, cherry tomatoes, basil, and enough reserved cooking liquid to loosen. Add the remaining ¼ cup olive oil and the lemon juice and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and serve immediately.

Bottom of the Box Bonus

Unlike Americans, who tend to cook their pasta by the package, Italians cook pasta in smaller amounts and consume smaller portions. My mother was always adding a handful of broken long pasta or shaped pasta to soups or fish stews, and often she would boil up just a few ounces to serve with the braising sauce from the meat we’d eat after the pasta course. As a result, her pantry ended up with lots of pasta odds and ends: an ounce of shells or farfalle, a dozen strands of linguine or capellini, a half package of fusilli or penne. When the leftover situation reached critical mass, she would boil up all these odd lots together for a dish known affectionately in some households as “rubbish” pasta. Sometimes it was the basis of a soup that also incorporated the bits and pieces of vegetables or meat left in the fridge; other times she would toss the cooked pasta with a simple sauce or pesto and call it a day. As kids, my brother and sister and I always loved the novelty of so many different shapes in our bowl or plate; as an adult I appreciate it as a practical and economical practice that helps clear out the cupboard. It also creates a dish with a variety of textures, as some pieces will be cooked to a silky softness while the chunkier pieces will retain a toothy al dente bite, a surprisingly sophisticated result given its humble beginnings.

Pasta e Fagioli with Mussels

SERVES 3 OR 4

Using a mixture of pasta shapes and sizes gives this dish an unusual texture, as some pieces will remain chewy while others are quite tender. It’s also a smart way to use up those odds and ends you have kicking around in the pantry.

Kosher salt

3 cups mixed dry pasta

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped

1 celery stalk, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, halved

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

4 plum tomatoes, chopped

2¼ pounds mussels, scrubbed and debearded

1 (15-ounce) can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add a tablespoon of salt. Add the pasta and cook until the biggest, thickest pieces are just al dente. This could be as short as 7 minutes or up to 12 minutes, depending on what is in your mixture.

While the pasta cooks, heat the oil in a large skillet with a lid over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and red pepper flakes and cook until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the tomatoes, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for about 10 minutes. Add the mussels in a single layer, cover the pan, and cook until the mussels have opened, 7 to 10 minutes, shaking occasionally.

Remove the mussels from their shells, returning the meat and any juices to the skillet. (Discard any mussels that do not open.) Stir in the beans and add a pinch of salt. Mix gently.

When the pasta is done cooking, drain it (reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid), then add to the skillet with the beans and sauce; add some of the reserved cooking water if needed to loosen. Cook over medium heat for a minute to blend the flavors, and serve.

Is Gluten-Free Here to Stay?

Only five years ago the special diet section of the grocery story was limited to a few boxes of “dietetic” sugar-free cookies and pudding mixes. Today there is a huge selection of products meant to make cooking and eating easier for those with intolerances and allergies to various ingredients, from nuts to lactose to gluten. Buyer beware, though: In many cases products substitute one questionable ingredient for another. Gluten-free products, for example, very often rely on highly processed carbohydrates such as cornstarch or potato flour, making them allergen-free but not particularly nutritious. It’s easy to eat a lot of extra calories’ worth of refined carbs if you overindulge.

That said, with food allergies on the rise, every cook needs a few good gluten-, dairy-, and nut-free recipes up her sleeve for accommodating guests and just making things a little lighter. I have never been specifically diagnosed with a food allergy, but I’ve observed that I feel better, my digestion is improved, and I experience less bloating when I ease off on the gluten and dairy (a tough admission for an Italian girl to make!). I don’t avoid them entirely—there’s still nothing I love better than a simple plate of capellini dressed with lemon and Parmesan—but it’s an occasional treat rather than an everyday event. The upside is that I’ve discovered a whole world of alternative foods, such as pastas made from brown rice or quinoa, that have introduced new flavors and textures to my repertoire.

So buy a box or two of rice crackers to allow your friends with gluten sensitivities to enjoy the cheese plate along with everyone else, then serve one of these delicious, healthful, naturally allergen-free pastas or risottos for the main event. They are perfect for anyone who is avoiding wheat—or not!

Gluten-Free Penne with Lemon-Cumin Chicken and Pesto

With so many people avoiding gluten either by choice or necessity, it’s a good idea to have a few gluten-free dishes like this one up your sleeve when guests stop by. Use whichever g-free pasta you like best; the zesty pesto is flavorful to stand up to even hearty varieties.

LEMON-CUMIN CHICKEN

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Zest of 1 large lemon

¼ cup fresh lemon juice (from 1 large lemon)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

4 (4-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken breasts

PESTO

1½ packed cups fresh mint leaves (about 1 large bunch)

1 packed cup baby spinach leaves

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

⅓ cup chopped toasted walnuts (see Cook’s Note)

1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Vegetable oil cooking spray

1 pound gluten-free brown rice penne

For the chicken: In a medium bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon zest and juice, garlic, cumin, salt, and red pepper flakes until smooth. Add the chicken and toss until coated with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. (The chicken can also be marinated in a resealable plastic bag.)

For the pesto: In a food processor, blend the mint, spinach, Parmesan, walnuts, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and pepper until chunky. With the machine running, slowly add the olive oil until smooth. Transfer the pesto to a large bowl.

Place a grill pan over medium-high heat or preheat a gas or charcoal grill. Spray the grill lightly with vegetable oil spray. Remove the chicken from the marinade and discard the marinade. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Grill the chicken until cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes on each side. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board and allow to rest before slicing into 2-inch pieces.

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil over medium-high heat and cook the pasta according to package directions. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of pasta water. Transfer the pasta to the bowl with the pesto and toss gently to coat, adding reserved pasta water to loosen if necessary. Add the chicken and toss gently to combine. Serve immediately.

Gluten-Free Penne with Lemon-Cumin Chicken and Pesto

Gluten-Free Pasta with Butternut Squash and Marjoram

I’ve always loved the simplicity of this dish, which traditionally featured wheat pasta and nuts. To “free” it up, I’ve swapped roasted squash cubes for the nuts and used brown rice pasta, making it gluten-, nut-, and dairy-free.

1 (1-pound) butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into ½-inch pieces

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1½ teaspoons kosher salt

⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 pound brown rice spaghetti

4 tablespoons Meyer lemon olive oil or citrus olive oil

2 large red onions, cut into ¼-inch-thick rings

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram leaves

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

In a medium bowl, toss the squash with the olive oil, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the cayenne. Spread the squash on a rimmed baking sheet and roast for 25 minutes or until tender and golden around the edges.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook according to the package directions, until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring often. Drain, reserving 1 cup of cooking liquid.

Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons of the lemon olive oil in a large heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté until tender and beginning to brown, about 15 minutes.

Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the black pepper. Stir in the marjoram and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the cooked pasta, roasted squash, and the remaining 2 tablespoons lemon olive oil. Toss with enough reserved cooking liquid, ¼ cup at a time, to moisten. Transfer to bowls and serve.

Calabrian Chile Pasta

The cool thing about this dish is that you don’t need to boil the pasta separately; it all cooks together in one pan, with the heat of the hot pasta softening the tomatoes and warming the peppers just the right amount. It’s quick and easy and just one pan to wash! Roasted piquillo peppers are mild and sweet, not spicy. They are available at many specialty food stores, but if you can’t locate them, regular roasted red peppers can be substituted. There is no substitute for the hot pepper paste, but crushed red pepper flakes would be delicious, too.

1 pound penne

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese

1 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered

½ cup diced roasted piquillo peppers

3 tablespoons Calabrian hot pepper paste

⅓ cup chopped fresh chives

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a 10-inch high-sided skillet, bring 1 inch of water (about 4 cups) to a boil over high heat. Add the penne and salt. Cook, stirring often, until the pasta is al dente, about 9 minutes. There should be a little water left in the pan.

Sprinkle the pecorino cheese on top of the pasta and toss to coat. Add the cherry tomatoes, piquillo peppers, hot pepper paste, chives, lemon zest and juice, and olive oil. Mix to combine and serve.

Parmesan Marinara

MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS

There are few things more satisfying than peeking in your freezer and seeing a few homemade staples ready and waiting for use. This all-purpose tomato sauce is the perfect example; make a double or even triple batch when you have a little extra time and you’ll never have to buy jarred sauce again. Trust me, you’ll use it for literally everthing. Because it has only a handful of ingredients, using the best quality you can find is essential. I like San Marzano tomatoes, which come from just outside Naples—they’re the best—and Parmesan rinds for an extra punch of flavor.

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 (28-ounce) can whole San Marzano tomatoes, crushed by hand

1 small red onion, peeled and halved

1 carrot, peeled and halved

2 fresh basil sprigs

2 (2-inch) pieces of Parmesan rind

1 bay leaf

½ teaspoon kosher salt

In a medium-size deep skillet or wide saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and sweat until fragrant. Add the tomatoes and their juices, red onion, carrot, basil, Parmesan rind, bay leaf, and salt. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring often with a wooden spoon, for about 25 minutes. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and simmer for an additional 5 minutes.

Allow the sauce to cool to room temperature. Discard the onion, carrot, basil, rind, and bay leaf. Pass the sauce through a food mill or puree it with an immersion blender and chill completely. The sauce will keep for 4 or 5 days in the refrigerator, or transfer to freezer containers and freeze for up to 3 months.

Parmesan Marinara

Name Your Shape

If you’re stuck in a pasta routine of bowl after bowl of plain old spaghetti, you’re missing out. Whether it’s a short cut or long, the way the shapes interact with the sauce has a big impact on the finished dish. There are literally hundreds of different cuts out there, many of the most unusual made by artisanal producers who use heirloom grains and favor old-fashioned methods and brass dies for extruding the pasta. Expect to cook these a little bit longer and enjoy the way the roughened, toothy edges capture your sauce.

Bucatini (boo-kah-TEEN-ee; “little holes”) Hailing from Rome and the surrounding Lazio, these strands are hollow, like thick tubular spaghetti. A versatile pasta, it’s often served simply with a red sauce, or with butter or olive oil and a bit of grated Parmesan.

Capellini (ka-pull-EE-nee; “little hairs”) Also known as angel hair pasta, these long, thin noodles cook quickly and go best with light sauces that won’t weigh them down. Think olive oil, garlic, and lemon, or a simple tomato-basil sauce.

Casarecce (ka-sa-RAY-cheh; “homemade”) Narrow, rolled, and twisted tubes, this pasta is as rustic as its homey name suggests. Try it with chunky sauces or in casseroles.

Conchiglie (kohn-KEEL-yeh; “shells”) These come in various sizes, from very large ones meant for stuffing, to very small ones, which are called conchigliette. Shells are good with meat sauces, and the small ones work in any dish in which you’d use elbow macaroni.

Croxetti (kro-KET-tee; “little crosses”) Like coins of pasta, these disks are stamped with different patterns. They date back to the Middle Ages, when wealthy families had them adorned with their coats of arms—the ultimate edible status symbol. Serve with a simple, light sauce, or just a bit of olive oil.

Farfalle (far-FALL-eh; “butterflies”) Often called bow-tie pasta, these pretty butterfly shapes taste best with simple olive oil– or tomato-based sauces that may incorporate ingredients such as peppers, chicken, or arugula. They are also great for a pasta salad.

Fettuccine (fet-too-CHEEN-eh; “little ribbons”) Similar to linguine but thicker and wider, these noodles are suitable for many sauces, including those that are cream-based or made with meat.

Fregola Sarda (FREG-o-lah SAR-dah; “little Sardinian fragments”) These bead-like bits of pasta hail from Sardinia. Similar to Israeli couscous, they are thought to have come to the island with immigrants from the Genovese colony in Tunisia. A traditional fregola preparation includes tomato sauce and clams.

Fusilli bucati (foo-ZEE-lee boo-CAH-tee; from the Italian for “spun” and “hole”) Similar to fusilli, which look like corkscrews, these noodles look more like bedsprings. They are a good choice for thick-and-hearty sauces because all the “goodness” gets trapped inside the spiral rather than just coating the exterior.

Gigli (GEE-lee; “lilies”) Resembling a flower, with a bell-like shape and ruffled edges, gigli stands up best to thick sauces and the chunky ingredients of a casserole.

Girelle (gee-REL-eh; “swivels”) This shape takes its name for its corkscrew-like turns. Try it with ingredients that can cling to its substantial curves, such as a pesto and vegetables.

Gramigna (gra-MEEN-ya; “weed”) Small, grass-like curls of pasta, these noodles cling to most ingredients. They lend themselves to light sauces with a few small chunks of meat or sausage.

Linguine (lin-GWEE-neh; “little tongues”) These long, flat strands are slightly curved in their cross section, like the tongues they are named after. They stand up to sturdier sauces, such as a pesto, tomato, or mushroom sauce, or those with flavorful ingredients, such as shellfish.

Macaroni (mak-a-ROW-neh) Most commonly used in the United States in macaroni and cheese or pasta salads, these curved tubes make an ideal ingredient for soups and stews, such as pasta e fagioli.

Mafalda (ma-FAL-da; named after Princess Mafalda of Savoy) These flat, wide, ribbon-like noodles have wavy ridges that make them look a little like narrow strips of lasagna. They go best with light, delicate sauces that cling to their smooth sides.

Orecchiette (or-ay-KYET-tay; “little ears”) Resembling their namesake ears, these round, curved pieces hail from southern Italy, and they are often served with broccoli rabe and sausage.

Paccheri (pa-KER-ee; “open-handed slap”) These short, wide tubes were said to have been invented during the Renaissance for use in smuggling garlic across the Alps into what is now Austria. This variety is suited to thick sauces, which cause them to make a slapping sound when eaten.

Penne (PEN-eh; “quills”) These small tubes may be smooth or ridged (rigate). Penne is best used in soups, in pasta salads, and with thicker sauces and casseroles because the ingredients and sauces can penetrate the inside of the pasta. Penne rigate are ideal for meat, vegetable, or butter-and-oil-based sauces because the ridges hold the sauce.

Riccioli (REE-key-oh-lee; “little curls”) Short, wide, and with a twist, these pieces stand up to chunkier ingredients like meat and cheese.

Rigatoni (ree-gah-TOE-nee; “ridged”) This wide, ridged, tube-shaped pasta has holes on either end that are large enough to capture pieces of vegetables in a sauce. In addition, this kind of pasta is perfect for baked dishes made with sauce and cheese.

Strozzapreti (strote-za-PRAY-tee; “priest chokers”) There are a few legends about how this short, rolled pasta got its colorful name. One says that Roman housewives who made it would “choke” the dough with such force, it looked as if they could choke a priest. Serve it as you would penne, with meat, vegetables, or just butter and oil.

Tagliatelle (tall-yuh-TELL-eh; from the Italian tagliere, “to cut”) A ribbon that’s generally narrower than fettuccine, this versatile pasta lends itself to various sauces, but is traditionally served with Bolognese or other meaty sauces.

Trofie (TROH-fee) This short, tapered, twisted pasta from Genoa pairs well with pesto and other simple sauces.

Parsley-Lemon Pesto with Farfalle

MAKES 1 CUP

With parsley available year-round, you can enjoy this pesto any time you need a dose of springtime.

2½ cups (tightly packed) fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves (about 2 ounces)

⅓ cup toasted pine nuts (see Cook’s Note)

1 to 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound farfalle or other pasta

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the parsley, pine nuts, and lemon zest and juice. Process for a few seconds to chop. With the machine running, gradually add the oil, blending until the mixture is thick.

Transfer the pesto to a large bowl. Stir in the Parmesan, salt, and pepper. (If not using right away, transfer the pesto to a jar and refrigerate for up to 3 days.)

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until the pasta is al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of pasta water.

Add the pasta to the pesto. Using a large spoon or rubber spatula, toss the pesto with the pasta, adding pasta water as needed to thin the sauce. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Pesto

In America, “pesto” generally refers to the familiar green mixture of basil, garlic, Parm, and pine nuts. In Italy, though, the word refers to the preparation—pounding ingredients together using a mortar and pestle to make a paste that is then thinned with olive oil to a sauce-like consistency.

Virtually anything can be the basis of a pesto, from chiles or kale to pistachios or walnuts. Swirl a dollop of cilantro pesto into a tomato or black bean soup, smear some rosemary pesto under the skin of your chicken before you roast it, or use chervil pesto as the basis for a delicate dressing to toss with spring greens. Mix it with mayonnaise to perk up a sandwich or chicken salad, spoon some onto your baked potato, and, oh yeah, toss it with any kind of pasta for an instant burst of green goodness.

Brown Rice Pasta with Creminis and Creamy Cauliflower

This is not only gluten-free, but thanks to the creamy pureed cauliflower sauce, it’s also dairy-free.

Brown Rice Pasta with Creminis and Creamy Cauliflower

1 small or ½ large head of cauliflower, cut into florets (about 1 pound)

2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

Kosher salt

5 ounces frozen spinach, thawed, squeezed dry, and drained well

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

8 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced ⅛ inch thick

1 shallot, minced

1 (12-ounce) package brown rice pasta

1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved (optional)

Place the cauliflower and garlic in a medium saucepan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium to maintain a simmer, salt the water well, and cook for about 15 minutes or until the cauliflower is completely tender. Drain well.

To the bowl of a food processor, add the cooked cauliflower and garlic, drained spinach, basil, lemon zest and juice, and ¼ cup of the olive oil. Puree until smooth and creamy, scraping down the sides as needed. Season with ¾ teaspoon salt and pour the mixture into a large bowl.

Place a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil to the skillet. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms. Spread them evenly over the pan and allow to cook undisturbed on the first side for 4 minutes, until golden brown. Stir with a wooden spoon, add the shallot, and continue cooking until both sides of the mushrooms are browned. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt and transfer the cooked mushrooms and shallot to the bowl with the creamy cauliflower.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the rice pasta according to package directions. Drain well, reserving 1 cup of pasta water. Add the cooked pasta to the cauliflower-mushroom mixture and toss well, adding pasta water as needed to loosen. Stir in the tomatoes, if using, and serve.

Go Vegan Part Time

I’ve always admired Mark Bittman’s writing, both on food policy and politics as well as his useful How to Cook Everything books. We met one morning to talk about his book VB6: Eat Vegan Before 6:00 and why being a part-time vegan works for weight loss and well-being.

Giada: Before you started eating vegan part time you were diagnosed with some pretty serious health issues. I’m surprised your doctor didn’t just put you on drugs.

Mark Bittman: The first doctor I saw wanted to, but when I went for a second opinion, that one said, “Just be vegan.” He was right!

GDL: How did you come up with the VB6—vegan until six p.m., then eat what you want after—approach?

MB: I like rules. This was a simple rule that I found easy to follow. No counting calories, no weighing things, no points.

GDL: Take me through a day: What do you eat when you get up?

MB: Just what we’re eating now: oatmeal topped with olive oil and some fruit. Tapenade and oatmeal are amazing. Or try pesto. Oatmeal is like rice—almost anything can go on it. Some mornings I make a pot of farro or wheat berries to eat throughout the week. Yesterday, for instance, I had leftover spinach and mushrooms.

GDL: How do you eat on the road? Because I find it hard. I always have almonds in my bag—they keep me going and help me avoid bad stuff.

MB: I try to have fruit for breakfast. I always have a banana or an apple in my bag. They’re portable and delicious. And I eat a lot of nuts, too. Airport food is the worst—everything has cheese in it, and it’s terrible cheese! It’s very difficult to eat well when you’re on the move. If I come back from a trip and haven’t gained weight, I consider that a good trip.

GDL: And if you did gain weight?

MB: Then I do strict VB6 for a week or two.

GDL: Are you also very conscious of portion control? I find that’s critical for me.

MB: I don’t pig out anymore. Maybe it’s an age thing. I find I get full pretty fast, and I’ve learned to stop eating when I’m full. So I no longer attempt to finish anything; as soon as I’m satisfied I just stop.

GDL: Is there anything you’ve cut back on that you miss?

MB: I eat way less dairy—I don’t like it and I don’t tolerate it as well as I used to. Yogurt and cheese are fermented so they are in a sense predigested. Once you start thinking like a part-time vegan, you just can’t stop, especially when you get into the flexitarian meals, which combine just a little meat—like one pound for four people instead of two pounds—with lots of vegetables and grains.

Orecchiette with Cauliflower and Bread Crumbs

Italians often add bread crumbs to pasta dishes for texture and color; here they are the secret ingredient that makes a simple pantry meal sing.

1 head of cauliflower, chopped into ½-inch pieces

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

1 pound orecchiette pasta

⅓ cup fresh bread crumbs

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

4 garlic cloves, chopped

5 anchovy fillets packed in oil, chopped

½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

Preheat the oven to 400°F. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss together the cauliflower, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, and ½ teaspoon salt. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes, turning the cauliflower midway through, until golden brown and cooked through. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook for 10 to 12 minutes or until al dente. Drain well, reserving 1½ cups of pasta water.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and toast until fragrant and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Remove to a small bowl and mix with 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese.

In that same large sauté pan, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and anchovies and stir with a wooden spoon, breaking up the anchovies to help them dissolve in the oil. This will take about 2 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes and the cauliflower and toss gently to coat.

Add to the pan the cooked pasta, half of the reserved pasta water, the remaining ½ cup cheese, and the parsley. Toss to coat, and simmer for another 2 minutes, adding additional pasta water as needed to moisten. Sprinkle with the bread crumb mixture and drizzle with more olive oil if desired.

Olive Oil

If you’ve ever shopped for olive oil in a specialty food shop, you’ve probably noticed that the prices can vary wildly and wondered what makes some so costly—and whether they’re worth the extra expense. The answer is…maybe…if you know exactly what you’re getting.

Like wine aficionados, olive oil experts have their own vocabulary to describe the important characteristics of oil. In the best oils, a balance of fruity, bitter, and pungent qualities should be evident. A vivid green color, though attractive, is not always indicative of flavor, nor is the variety of olive or country of origin a sure guarantee of good (or poor) quality. A fine bottle of oil should indicate the date of press, and once the oil is more than six months old it is probably not worth a premium price. After another three months or so, the oil will have lost its unique characteristics.

To assess the bouquet of a young oil, pour a small amount of oil into a small glass bowl and an equal amount of supermarket oil into a second bowl. One at a time, cup your hand over the bowl, then swirl the oil to warm it from the heat of your hand. When you uncover the dish you should be able to get a good whiff of the grassy, peaty, herbaceous, or fruity aromas. If, on the other hand, you detect aromas of gasoline, plastic, or other chemicals, it’s likely your bottle was produced using some shortcuts to extract the oil from the fruit, or has been adulterated with other ingredients.

Precious extra-virgin oils should be reserved to drizzle over soups, pastas, seafood dishes, and in dressings; for everyday use in cooked sauces or marinades, a good-quality mass-produced oil will do just fine.

Short-Rib Lasagna

SERVES 6 TO 8

A great make-ahead meal that can be frozen and reheated. Use the short rib braising liquid as a base for soup or toss with pasta another night.

RIBS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2½ pounds beef short ribs

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 onion, coarsely chopped

4 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

2 (4-inch) fresh rosemary sprigs

2 cups red wine, such as pinot noir

1½ cups (6 ounces) freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

1 cup (4 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese

1 small bunch of Tuscan kale, ribs removed, leaves chopped

¼ cup chopped fresh basil leaves

2 garlic cloves, minced

12 lasagna noodles (about 10 ounces)

Butter, for greasing the baking dish

3½ cups marinara sauce, homemade or 1 (25-ounce) jar

½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

For the ribs: In a large Dutch oven or heavy stockpot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Season the ribs with 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Add the ribs to the pot and cook for about 4 minutes on each side, until brown. Remove the ribs and set aside. Add the onion, garlic, and rosemary to the pot. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5 minutes, until the onion is translucent and soft. Increase the heat to high. Add the wine and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the brown bits that cling to the bottom of the pot. Add the beef broth and ribs to the pan.

Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook for 2½ to 3 hours, until the meat is very tender. Remove the ribs and set aside until cool enough to handle, about 20 minutes. Reserve the cooking liquid for another use or discard along with the bones. Using 2 forks, shred the meat into 2-inch-long pieces (to yield approximately 2¼ cups shredded meat).

For the filling: In a medium heavy saucepan, bring the milk and cream to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low. Add the cheeses and whisk until melted and the sauce is smooth. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the kale, basil, and garlic.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until just tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and set aside.

Place an oven rack in the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 9 × 13-inch glass baking dish. Spread 1 cup of the marinara sauce in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Lay 3 noodles over the marinara. Spread one-third of the filling mixture evenly along each noodle. Sprinkle with one-third of the shredded short ribs. Repeat with the remaining noodles and filling, making 3 layers of filling and ending with pasta. Spoon the remaining marinara sauce on top and sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese. Drizzle with olive oil and bake until the lasagna is heated through and the cheese is beginning to brown, about 25 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes. Cut into squares and serve.

Creamy Spinach and Mushroom Lasagna

SERVES 6 TO 8

Fresh pasta sheets make for a more tender lasagna, so if you have a good source for fresh pasta, by all means use it here. You’ll appreciate the difference. But even with dried lasagna noodles this is a great option to keep in mind for meatless meals.

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature, for greasing the baking dish

VEGETABLES

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

1 medium onion, chopped

12 ounces cremini mushrooms, cleaned and quartered

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

SAUCE

2 cups heavy cream, at room temperature

1¾ cups whole milk, at room temperature

⅓ cup all-purpose flour

2 cups (8 ounces) freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

3½ cups (14 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese

2 (5-ounce) bags baby spinach, coarsely chopped

¼ cup packed chopped fresh basil leaves

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 (8 × 5-inch) fresh lasagna noodles or 12 dried lasagna noodles

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9 × 13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. Set aside.

For the vegetables: In a large nonstick skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Add the onion, mushrooms, salt, and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is soft and any liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated, about 20 minutes.

For the sauce: In a heavy 5-quart saucepan, bring the cream, milk, and flour to a simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly for 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low. Add the pecorino and 2 cups of the mozzarella cheese. Whisk until the cheeses have melted and the sauce is smooth. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the spinach, basil, garlic, salt, and pepper. Add the mushroom mixture to the sauce and stir to combine. Set aside to cool slightly.

If using dried pasta, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, then add the dried lasagna noodles and cook for 6 to 8 minutes until just tender. Drain and cool slightly before using.

Spread 1 cup of the sauce over the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Arrange 2 sheets of fresh pasta or 3 boiled lasagna noodles on top in a single layer. Spread with 2 cups of sauce. Repeat the layers with the remaining pasta sheets and sauce, ending with sauce. Sprinkle with the remaining 1½ cups mozzarella cheese. Drizzle with olive oil and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the filling is bubbling and the top is golden. Cool for 20 minutes. Cut into squares and serve.

Creamy Spinach and Mushroom Lasagna

Pasta Pizza

Another family favorite from my childhood, this was a quick and easy dish my mother made from leftover cooked pasta. Feel free to incorporate any kind of pasta, vegetables, and cheese that you have on hand.

2 eggs

¾ cup grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 cups cooked spaghetti (about ½ pound dried)

⅓ cup diced salami, prosciutto, or ham

⅓ cup frozen edamame or peas, thawed, or chopped cooked broccoli

1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil

Crushed hot red pepper flakes (optional)

In a small bowl, beat the eggs until well combined. Stir in the Parmesan, salt, and pepper and mix well.

In a large bowl, toss together the pasta, diced meat, and vegetables; using your hands generally gets the job done most efficiently. Add the egg mixture and mix again, being sure to distribute the eggs thoroughly.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. When hot but not smoking, add the pasta mixture, pressing evenly into the pan with the back of a spatula. Reduce the heat to medium and cook without stirring for 5 to 6 minutes or until the bottom of the cake is browned and crisp and releases from the pan (you may need to run a spatula or knife around the edge of the pan to nudge it free). Press down on the pasta as it cooks now and then to ensure it is making good contact with the bottom of the pan.

Cover the pan with a large plate and carefully flip it over, inverting the pasta cake onto the plate. Add a bit more oil to the pan if it looks dry, then slide the pasta cake back into the pan. Cook for another 5 to 6 minutes or until golden.

Slide the pasta cake onto a cutting board and cut it into wedges. Serve hot, sprinkled with Parmesan and red pepper flakes if desired.

Kitchen Remedies

When I was growing up, my nonna would take the sting out of a sunburn with a milk-soaked cloth, or cure a cough with a glass of hot water, lemon, and honey. Her generation relied on home remedies for health and beauty treatments, and today, this all-natural approach has newfound appeal as we learn more about the unwanted ingredients in so many packaged goods. Here are some tried-and-tested cures.

Witch Hazel: Get rid of morning puffiness by soaking two cotton pads in chilled witch hazel and placing them on your closed eyes for a minute or two.

Olive Oil: Drizzle a few tablespoons into your bathwater for softer skin. Rub some onto your cuticles if they are dry or cracked.

Baking Soda: Use as a skin-softening body scrub, work it through wet tresses as a shampoo alternative, or mix it with equal parts water to make a 15-minute acne spot treatment.

Aloe Vera: The leaves of this succulent plant contain a gel that soothes minor burns or sunburn. It can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and stretch marks and take the bite out of razor nicks, too. Grow an aloe vera plant in a pot, or purchase a tube of pure aloe vera gel.

Ginger: To settle an upset stomach, peel and chop a half-inch piece of gingerroot and steep it in boiled water for a few minutes. Sip.

Chamomile: Hot chamomile tea will make you sleepy and help you get your beauty rest; a cooled version can be poured over your scalp to prevent and treat dandruff.

10-inch timbale

Spring Pasta Timbale

This is an impressive-looking dish for a spring dinner gathering. The pasta is wrapped in grilled zucchini before baking, which not only keeps it moist, but also adds flavor throughout the whole dish. You can make individual servings in four 10-ounce ramekins if you prefer.

4 medium zucchini, sliced lengthwise into ¼-inch-thick strips

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ pound penne

2 medium shallots, diced

½ pound Italian pork sausage, casings removed

1½ cups cherry tomatoes, quartered

¼ cup Marsala wine

½ cup frozen peas, thawed

½ bunch of asparagus, chopped fine

1 cup diced provolone piccante cheese (about 4 ounces)

1 cup freshly grated Pecorino-Romano cheese

½ cup chopped fresh basil leaves

Place a grill pan over medium-high heat or preheat a gas or charcoal grill. Using a pastry brush, lightly brush the zucchini slices with ¼ cup of the olive oil and sprinkle with the salt and pepper. Grill the zucchini until tender and colored with grill marks, about 4 minutes per side. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but still firm to the bite, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain the pasta.

Meanwhile, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet. Add the shallots and sauté until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and brown the meat, breaking it into bite-size pieces with a wooden spoon, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and the Marsala and cook until the liquid has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Turn off the heat. Add the peas and asparagus and stir to combine. Add the provolone, ¾ cup of the Pecorino-Romano, the basil, and the cooked pasta. Set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a 9-inch springform pan with the grilled zucchini. Be sure that the slices overlap and hang over the edge. Fill with the pasta mixture, pressing down to make sure the pan is filled evenly. Fold the zucchini slices over the top of the pasta and add more slices on top to completely enclose the timbale.

Bake the timbale until warmed through and the cheese has melted, about 30 minutes. Transfer the timbale to a wire rack and let it rest for 10 minutes to set.

To serve, invert the timbale onto a platter and release the sides and bottom of the pan. Sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup Pecorino-Romano and cut into wedges to serve.

Individual timbale

Lighter Macaroni and Cheese

SERVES 6

This lightened-up version is also gluten-free. Greek yogurt gives it the rich, creamy texture of cream and butter without the fat, and the rice cereal adds a boost of fiber and the perfect crunch.

1 (12-ounce) bag rice flour penne, such as Bionaturae

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 shallot, minced

½ cup low-sodium chicken broth

1 (15-ounce) container part-skim ricotta cheese

¼ cup fat-free plain Greek yogurt

1 cup (about ¼ pound) shredded Gruyère or Emmentaler cheese

½ teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

½ cup oven-toasted rice cereal, such as Chex, crushed

2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the penne and cook according to package directions, just until al dente. Drain well, reserving ⅓ cup of pasta water for the sauce.

Heat a 3-quart ovenproof pot over medium heat. Add the olive oil and shallot and cook, stirring often, until the shallot has softened and become translucent. Add the chicken broth and bring to a simmer.

Preheat the broiler to high.

Turn off the heat and add the ricotta, yogurt, Gruyère, thyme, salt, cayenne, and reserved pasta water. Whisk until combined. Add the cooked pasta and fold it into the sauce until it is well coated.

In a small bowl, mix the crushed rice cereal with the Parmesan. Sprinkle the mixture over the pasta and broil for 3 to 5 minutes or until golden brown on top and bubbly.

Stock Up

One of the keys to putting together a quick-and-easy meal—or any meal, for that matter—that’s stress-free and delicious is to have a well-stocked pantry. Here are some of the staples I can’t cook without.

Extra-virgin olive oil: A less expensive oil for sautéing garlic and onions, and a pricey one for drizzling over salads, oatmeal, vegetables, and seafood. Store in a cool, dark place.

Fresh garlic: Choose garlic heads that are firm, not hard and dried out. Store in a cool, dark place, but not in the refrigerator.

Red pepper flakes: These go in everything! If they’ve been in your pantry for more than six months or their color isn’t a vibrant red, they’ve lost their heat.

Canned or jarred Italian tuna: Choose tuna packed in olive oil—it has more flavor.

Marinara sauce: I prefer to make my own (see this page) and store it in the freezer, but if you don’t have time, choose one that has as few added flavorings and sugars as possible.

Dried herbs: Oregano, rosemary, thyme, and herbes de Provence are my basics.

Vinegars: A good balsamic vinegar for salads and both red and white wine vinegars.

Onions: These keep well, so I keep on hand red, Spanish, and a sweet variety, such as Vidalia, as well as shallots.

Capers: A fast way to add zing to salads, sauces, and meat or fish dishes. Those packed in salt are best; rinse well before using.

Anchovies: Mashed into dressings, sauces, or vegetable purees, they add a subtle depth of flavor.

Nuts: I like to keep almonds, walnuts, and hazelnuts on hand to add crunch to salads, cookies, and pasta. Store in the freezer.

Dried pasta: I keep long strands such as spaghetti and linguine, short tubes like penne and rigatoni, and other shapes like shells, orecchiette (“little ears”), and farfalle (bow ties) as well as a box of brown rice pasta for guests who can’t eat gluten.

Canned cannellini beans: Italian beans, also known as Tuscan white beans.

Fusilli with Tuna, Capers, and Almonds