Crêpes

Makes: 8 to 12 crêpes, depending on the size

Time: 40 minutes

Crêpes are great at any time of day and as good savory as they are sweet. The batter can be made a day ahead, as can the unfilled crêpes—refrigerate them, then wrap them in foil and reheat in a 325°F oven. If you want to freeze them, cool them entirely, stack them with wax paper between crêpes, and wrap the whole thing tightly in plastic wrap. Defrost in the fridge.

With such a thin batter, you may have to make one or two crêpes before they’re perfectly thin and perfectly round; this is normal, and there’s plenty to allow for some error. But even a misshapen crêpe is a tasty one.

1. Whisk the milk, flour, eggs, melted butter, the sugar if you’re using it, and the salt until smooth; you can do this in a blender. If the mixture isn’t quite pourable, add a little more milk. If time allows, let the batter rest in the refrigerator for an hour or up to 24 hours.

2. Put an 8- or 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat and when it’s hot, add a small pat of butter. Stir the batter and pour a scant ladleful into the skillet. Swirl it around so that it forms a thin layer on the bottom of the pan.

3. When the top of the crêpe is dry, after about a minute, carefully flip it and cook the other side for 15 to 30 seconds. (The crêpe should become only slightly brown and not at all crisp.) Bear in mind that the first crêpe almost never works, so discard it if necessary; there is plenty of batter.

4. Stack the crêpes on a plate as you make them and keep them warm in a 200°F oven until ready to serve. Even better, fill each crêpe while it’s still in the pan, putting the filling in the center of the bottom third of the crêpe. Either roll the crêpe starting at the end with the filling or fold it in half, then into thirds. If you want your filling warmed, keep the filled crêpe over low heat for a few minutes. Repeat this process, adding butter to the skillet and adjusting the heat as needed, until all the batter is used up.

CHOCOLATE CRÊPES Chocolaty but still light: Add ¼ cup cocoa powder and use the sugar. Serve with Chocolate Ganache or, lighter, with Whipped Cream and Macerated Berries.

BUCKWHEAT CRÊPES Fill with shredded cheese, scrambled egg, sautéed mushrooms, or ham: Use buckwheat flour instead of all-purpose and increase the milk to 1½ cups. These are best if the batter rests for at least an hour.