Chocolate Ganache

Makes: About 1½ cups

Time: 15 minutes

This luscious mixture of chocolate and cream is a breeze to make and one of the most versatile of all sauces. At different consistencies, it can become a glaze, a dense filling for truffles, a frosting, or a mousselike whipped cream. You may find yourself slathering it on everything; see this list for ways to make the flavor your own.

1. Put the cream in a pot and heat it until it’s steaming. Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl, pour on the hot cream, and whisk until the chocolate is melted and incorporated into the cream.

2. Use right away as a sauce or coating; as it cools down, it will start to set and get stiffer and harder to spread. See the variations to whip it into a smooth, rich frosting or turn it into a creamy glaze.

WHITE CHOCOLATE GANACHE A pleasant surprise on Chocolate Cake or sandwiched between Chocolate Wafer Cookies; of course, you can use it for any of the variations that follow: Substitute good-quality chopped white chocolate for the dark chocolate.

MILK CHOCOLATE GANACHE Mild, sweet, and wonderful with caramel or nougat; like the white chocolate ganache, it works with any of the following variations: Use good-quality milk chocolate instead of dark.

RICH GANACHE FROSTING This is straight-up ganache, so use it on a relatively sturdy cake that won’t crumble much under the dense topping: Put the cooled cake on a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. If the ganache is cool, gently rewarm it so it’s spreadable but not too hot and pour or ladle it over the cake in a slow, even layer from the center outward, letting it flow down the sides of the cake. Spreading by hand can pick up cake crumbs and ruin the smooth coating, so if you must spread, use a metal spatula that you’ve warmed by running it under hot water and then dried thoroughly. If you like, add flaky sea salt, chopped nuts, or fresh fruit. Refrigerate the whole thing—cake, rack, and pan—until the ganache sets, at least 30 minutes. Carefully transfer the cake to your serving plate; you can scrape up any leftover ganache and use it to make truffles.

WHIPPED GANACHE FROSTING Simply whipping the ganache will transform its texture; its light, fluffy consistency is perfect for frosting any cake or piping or filling a variety of confections: Use an electric mixer to beat the cooled ganache on low, gradually increasing the speed to medium-high until the mixture turns light and fluffy. If you like it sweeter, gradually add confectioners’ sugar, ¼ cup at a time (up to 1½ cups) to taste as you beat.

GANACHE DRIZZLE Let the ganache cool just enough that it’s still spreadable. Put it in a pastry bag fitted with a small tip or in a zipper bag with a small piece of the corner snipped off. Drizzle as decoration over any cake or cupcake, or even big cookies. With practice, you can use it to write letters and draw shapes.

QUICK GANACHE TRUFFLES One of the richest yet easiest treats you can make; see 12 Ways to Infuse Simple Syrup and Ganache and Chocolate Truffles for more ideas: Chill the ganache in the fridge until it’s solid all the way through, 1 to 2 hours depending on quantity. Scoop out a tablespoonful and quickly roll it into a 1-inch ball (wearing latex gloves helps to prevent melting); repeat, lining up the truffles on a plate or baking sheet as you work. If the truffles become too soft to handle, stick them in the fridge or freezer for a few minutes. Roll them in cocoa powder, confectioners’ sugar, or cinnamon-sugar. Serve immediately or refrigerate, wrapped in plastic, for a day or so.

QUICK GANACHE FUDGE An irresistible candy; no need for a candy thermometer: Line a cake pan or square baking dish with parchment paper and lightly grease it with butter or oil. When the ganache is still warm but not hot, mix in up to ½ cup chopped nuts, toasted sesame seeds or pepitas, dried fruit, candied ginger, or more chopped chocolate. Pour the mix into the prepared pan, let it set up in the fridge, and use a sharp knife to cut it into pieces. Keep refrigerated until you’re ready to eat.

CHOCOLATE GANACHE GLAZE As a midpoint between ganache and chocolate sauce, this is an especially lavish sauce for dipping fresh fruit or cookies; you can also use it to glaze cakes or top ice cream: Thin the still-warm ganache with additional cream, about 2 tablespoons at a time, until it’s easily pourable and doesn’t harden too much when cooled to room temperature. To test the consistency, spread a small spoonful on a plate; it should thicken but remain very soft. To serve this as fondue, gently rewarm it and use it for dipping fruit, Marshmallows, or cubed Pound Cake or Angel Food Cake.

CHOCOLATE WHIPPED CREAM Lighter and fluffier than whipped ganache, perfect anywhere you’d dollop Whipped Cream: Decrease the chocolate to 4 ounces. After Step 1, cover and refrigerate for several hours and up to 3 days. Whip as you would whipped cream until it forms soft peaks.

Tips, Tricks, and Variations for Whipped Cream

Stages of Whipped Cream

There are various stages to whipped cream that are good to know for any kind of cooking (they also apply to whipped egg whites; see page 56). You can vary the stiffness of the peaks according to the dessert: If you want the cream to melt into the dish, use soft peaks or cream whipped only enough to thicken a bit and drizzle over the top; stiff peaks are good for using as a frosting or filling for cakes or cookies.

SOFT PEAKS When you dip beaters or a whisk into the bowl, the cream is not yet stiff enough to hold peaks; it just sort of flops over onto itself. But it doesn’t take long from this stage to stiff peaks, so be sure to stop beating and check the consistency frequently. This is the time to slowly add sugar if you’re using it.

STIFF PEAKS Cream that stays on the spoon, slightly firm and stable. Dip the beaters or whisk into the cream and pull up; the peaks formed should stand upright with minimal drooping.

OVERBEATEN If you beat whipped cream too much, it will start to look “clotted” or curdled. If this happens, try stirring in a little more cream by hand until smooth again. (Or keep whipping; you’ll eventually get butter, page 583.)

How to Make Whipped Cream Ahead of Time

Most people will tell you that whipped cream is best made just before serving, and it’s true that it can “weep” a bit if left to sit. But it’s not always convenient to make it last-minute, and it’s nice to have a bowl of ready-to-eat whipped cream in the fridge. So here’s how you do it: Whip it to soft peaks (preferably in a chilled metal bowl) or until it’s not quite as stiff as you want it. Folding or whisking 3 tablespoons Crème fraîche into the whipped cream will add extra stability, but it isn’t necessary. Cover and refrigerate—for up to 4 days! Just before serving, use a whisk to vigorously beat it a few times to fluff it up and reincorporate any separated liquid.

12 Ways to Flavor Whipped Cream

There are very few desserts that aren’t improved by a dollop of fluffy whipped cream, and it’s so versatile that you can flavor it to complement just about anything. Start with 1 cup cream, beat until it holds its shape, add flavorings, and beat until it’s ready. It’s easy to adjust the taste of the finished product if need be, so err on the conservative side.

VANILLA: Scrape the seeds from half a pod into the cream or use 1 teaspoon good-quality vanilla extract. If you add sugar as well, this is called Chantilly cream.

COFFEE: Dissolve 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder in 2 teaspoons of the cream, then add to the finished whipped cream and beat for a few seconds to incorporate.

HONEY: Use honey instead of sugar.

MAPLE SYRUP: Use some maple syrup in place of sugar. (Add just enough to flavor the whipped cream—say 1 tablespoon per cup of cream; if you want it sweeter, add sugar so you don’t liquefy the whipped cream.)

SPICE: Sprinkle in cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, and/or any other finely ground sweet spice, about ¼ teaspoon at a time to taste.

BOOZE: Add 1 to 2 tablespoons bourbon, brandy, Kahlúa, Grand Marnier, framboise, amaretto, etc.

CITRUS: Fold in ½ to 1 teaspoon or so grated citrus zest.

GINGER: Add ½ teaspoon finely grated or very finely minced fresh ginger.

ROSE WATER OR ORANGE BLOSSOM WATER: Add 1 to 2 teaspoons rose water or orange blossom water. An intriguing topping for Baklava, Orange-Almond Cake, and Olive Oil Cake.

SOUR CREAM: Whip ¼ cup sour cream, Crème fraîche, or mascarpone into the cream.

CHOCOLATE: Classic, delicious, and with many variations. See page 560 for instructions.

HERBS: Bring the cream just to a simmer. Add ⅓ cup chopped fresh herb (basil, mint, or rosemary works well). Refrigerate overnight to steep and then strain before whipping.